I took your picture and used the webpage color.adobe.com to extract your theme. I had to tweak it a bit because it kept picking up your finger and the red you had in the background. Magenta is perfect for split complementary in this case, your gut was right so go with it!
Guess im a bit slow, whats Impcat?
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Edit: oh wow, this is an app for determining model colors, an image editor, this isnt painted.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.DesignBench.impcat&hl=en_US
Hive Fleet Problematicus, named after the Carabus Problematicus , a Purple carapace beetle, since my paint scheme is the Gorgon green flesh with a purple carapace. https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/ground-beetle-carabus-problematicus-1405784021
Green is a split contrasting color to both of those, but I personally like putting dark red on claws. Here is a tool to help pick color schemes for your units.
From playing around with a colour wheel a bit I think something like a dark rusty orange could work. https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel is really handy for making colour palletes. I actually used the extract theme feature with your picture to get the greens, flesh and bone colours and then switched back to the wheel to find something for the swords.
The bigger rocks are some slate pieces I got from a little mom and pop shop... something about rivers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072DW7NC4/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Measure the maximum space you can use and look for them in MM
I used these for small guns and arms. holds a power claw in the right place. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XRQ44VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_YCP7ZRV7HZ1PPN6F24WW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used these for bases. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NZTN426/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_4VZ6015WTQ5ATS901YQ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Now they have flat ones too but dont hold very well, good for termigants maybe. But measure and look for rare earth magnets neodymium as key words to look for. Brand doesnt really matter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081K9Z6MT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is what I used for the grass. On some pieces I added reindeer moss from the dollar store and cut them into pieces like a tiny shrub.
Typical sand, glue, and black primer to start.
Of course! Luckily for you the cleaning fluid *is* the paint stripper! Even though its for cleaning it works super well for stripping models and its less toxic than most other strippers.
These listings are NOT what I got as I went to a local car repair shop for the super clean and Ace for Simple green however, they do seem the same product just different packaging!
Super clean (I got it for $8 USD)
Simple green (Got it for like $5 USD)
I also couldn't find the EXACT bottle of simple green as I got the 1 gallon one you can see in the center!
Good luck with your army and if you have any more questions just ask!
For some of it I get these Feldherr boxes for 40 bucks off Amazon. The rest of my stuff I just have cardboard boxes with the top cut off and the bottom taped and I have some foam sheets cut to place on around the bigger stuff and keep it from moving. The 100 with large pluck can fit gaunts, the pluck can fit hive guard, broodlord, ect. The large base ones can fit genestealers and warriors. https://www.amazon.com/Feldherr-Storage-miniatures-tanks-monster/dp/B072K5HF25/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541472600&sr=8-1&keywords=feldherr&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Feldherr-Storage-miniatures-tanks-monster/dp/B07FFV371X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541472600&sr=8-1&keywords=feldherr&th=1
1: when it comes to either one the swarm lord is good for larger match sizes (1500+pts) while the regular tyrant is good for smaller match sizes. You can also have up to three hive tyrants but only one swarmlord due to him being a named character. As for which to build it’s based on what type/how big your army is. For instance you wouldn’t want the swarmlord in a ranged nids army due to him literally having no real range besides psychics. Build your tyrant to complement your army or magnetize so you can experiment with any tyrant builds.
Those types of magnets and a little green stuff will help you on your magentization that way you can play any type of tyrant. Look up a video to see how people magnetize their models.
I started by building up the base like you usually would (adding rocks and stuff) and then put globs of a mixture of PVA glue and a white flock I found onto the base, spread it out and then sprinkled a sort of "white grit" on top.
I got the flock and grit from this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Winter-Snow-Basing-Kit-WWS/dp/B0727XKK58/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=snow+basing&qid=1553440641&s=gateway&sr=8-6
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I've also heard that baking powder works well instead of the flock, but haven't tried that myself.
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Also for the rocks underneath I did a very very dark brown with a dry brush of very very light blue, I thought it made a nice simple frosty look. (Although you can't see much of them from the snow).
I use this, not sure if it's available in the US. It has a needle instead of a brush, super useful for precision glueing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-Contacta-Professional-Mini-12-5g/dp/B087XBT4FJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=2P01W68MW2R9N
Ive had one of these except by testors for literally years and its never clogged and works great. Apparently available on amazon as well:
For the record i briefly lost this, looked around at all my local stores and was shocked how hard it was to find ANY plastics cement much less one with the needle applicator. Praise be the internet!
Huge waste of money, I nearly bought one when my friend recommended buying regular basic plastic boxes and magnetising the models to them.
For reference:
Buy a few of these:
A4 Self-Adhesive Rubber Steel... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TWGWNQG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Put them in boxes like this:
Really Useful Box 4 Litre Office Storage Box, Clear https://amzn.eu/d/bQSPriS
Glue magnet to bottom of minis and no padding/packaging needed and almost 0 risk of damage and very easy to pack/unpack. Probably works out at £8 a box and each box could fit 30 minis. Can buy the slightly deeper boxes for your bigger monsters etc.
You got pretty much everything. The torso is from a trygon, but I ripped out its heat vents and replaced them with ones from the tyrannofex so tbf that would've been super hard for you to recognise. Excellent job spotting the spore node, I really thought that'd get missed haha.
The arm is from a Mcfarlane Genestealer. I got super lucky with that, I had no idea what I was going to do for that arm and then I found the Genestealer and realised it'd be perfect.
Wooden jewelry balls: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000GPI7FY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Put greenstuff around the ends so there's no opening. Spray painted and based in wraithbone then fuegan orange wash
I use a fishing box, it has small compartment to carry the swarm and the bottom one has more than enough space for the big monsters :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075PMRBWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was these exact magnets, it doesn't list the strength, however the amazon reviews did say that it held tyranid arms for them, they could be lying though
Thank you!
It was that ikea cabinet every gets.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/detolf-glass-door-cabinet-black-brown-10119206/
And then I strung these led light strips up the side. I got the idea from a YouTube video I found
Lepro LED Strip Light White, 16.4ft Dimmable Vanity Lights, 6000K Super Bright LED Tape Lights, 300 LEDs 2835, Strong 3M Adhesive, Suitable for Home, Kitchen, Under Cabinet, Bedroom, Daylight White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHLIFO8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_AMHB0ZVYDQWRMMYSEFW8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would have used a coin, but as they are in slotta bases I used cheap diving ballast (https://www.amazon.co.uk/AKM-Scuba-Diving-Ballast-weight/dp/B087V451DQ/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B087V451DQ&psc=1) instead which I fix with 2 part epoxy glue.
I also build model aircraft and armour so had the ballast already for aircraft nose weights.
From a cost perspective, it's best to use a dab of greenstuff. A roll of that has a larger upfront cost, but the amount you use to weigh down the base is less than a penny. I always found it odd that people would use pennies or nickles to weigh down bases cause the value of those are higher than using things like metal washers or a bit of greenstuff.
Rocks are a good idea too as they're free and you can get them from anywhere. Could buy a bag, or just go for a stroll and pocket some as you go along. If you have a spare parts toolbox with a bunch of washers in it, can always use that.
Basically, use stuff that the cost is low for weighing down a base and save your actual money.
Nevermind, just seen the additional pics, where he shows the bottle. Doh!
Liquitex white ink
Link on amazon for others https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002644I1U?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_00VH1FV1S8VAQHR988A8
I saw that GW is out of stock so here's an alternative.
You can use super glue accelerant when super glue is being stubborn. I use this acceleratorwith gorilla super glue gel when gluing up my resin 3d prints. Put super glue on one part, and spray the other.
The spray can is a little annoying for miniature work, but any overspray dries quickly and I haven't had any issues with it. You may be able to find a different applicator.
I can’t remember for sure but I believe this was the set I bought for magnetizing my carnifex and some other bugs. The Army Painter Miniature and Model Rare Earth Magnets - Heavy Duty Magnets Neodymium, 100 Pieces, Variety Pack (20x5mm and 80x3mm), Round Magnets, N52 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RW3RDDD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_98BT8695D52J0DM76WW6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Easily. from here for example.
Or shop around. I usually go with eBay tbh. You want the 99.9% stuff. Get a 1L at least. Obviously, is ridiculously flammable so be careful. Will dry your skin if you handle it too much. And for god's sake, do NOT drink it!!
MIN CI 100Pcs Super Strong Rare Earth Magnets Bar, Rectangular Metal Neodymium Magnets, for Refrigerator Cruise Crafts DIY Science Industrial Kitchen Tool Storage (10x4x2mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M6BJK5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BFRR476VJ645AHDV07MQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are my fav by far tho would rather use one of those per little one and just do the whole army with them next time I do them, little drop of green stuff on the back and then some super glue and push it in there, fits just shy of the standard bases so the models don’t rock and don’t fall , gonna figure a way to hang stuff from the lid one day
You can make your own grayscale models by using Photoshop, or GIMP. I am sure there are tutorials for Photoshop as well, but i am using GIMP... and they way you do it is like this.
You can just take the pictures from the GW store, turn them black and white.. then make a new layer and paint them in.
2nd comment but I also found metal cast automatic spray paint (link here). I’d recommend using a white primer so you get the vibrant colours.
Just went through this with 18 warriors. If it were super glue no prob, just freeze it and pop it off. But since you (and I) used cement, you will need to saw it off. There's a small jewelry or hobby saw out there that you can get really close to the body to cut it.
Then when you are drilling out the holes just bore out the remaining arm piece.
Saw suggestion: TAMIYA 300074111 Handsaw with Handle https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CTC7I34/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AJJW5BSWM069S69BAT5V
Buy about $20 of blue stuff from greenstuffworld.com
Buy some air epoxy like this (https://www.amazon.com/Free-Form-AIR-Epoxy-Dough/dp/B00IEKMF9C?pd_rd_w=6wLUk&pf_rd_p=fe838164-8963-4b55-8b4d-8eb514ffa8b5&pf_rd_r=XESTSJEVBEXRZHYV8EZ2&pd_rd_r=37e43ed6-dcee-4463-adf3-7872d176b898&pd_rd_wg=DmG7q&pd_rd_i=B00IEKMF...)
Make a mold of the parts you need duplicated and cast them with the epoxy.
It might seem like a lot of work or money investment up front but think about this: the blue stuff molds are reusable and you can make any number of molds for every thing you'll ever want in the future. My friends used this technique to make dozens of warriors and I'm currently making a batch of 200 gaunts. All for like $6
Like this? How does one power these? Are they self-powered (eeny teeny tiny batteries?), or do you have to wire them to a power source? How do you turn them on and off?
This is so cool, I would go NUTS with my army with these...
This should do the trick. Also called Twine or cotton twine :). 100m - Everlasto Original 'Beautiful Bakers Twine' (2mm approx) (Cherry Blossom) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GCNH340/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VGC7CC8GP01FQMFMKDGF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used the light and dark green from War World Scenics Lichen Moss Model Foliage: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01HF3J6IG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MTVGXT9JE93YZJQ2NNNT. I put a blob of glue where I wanted it and pressed a bunch of the moss into it. Then waited for it to dry properly and then pulled off any excess. Then flock for any other spaces.
I used this tutorial as a starting point: https://www.belloflostsouls.net/2014/08/hobby-build-a-jungle-base-in-less-than-three-minutes.html
Paletton has quite nice interactive color wheel where you can try out different schemes.
For example Green and Purple seems to match nicely for orange. So maybe green weapons (as you already have) and dark purple hoofs?
Thank you!
I used a power drill, and a hand drill.
First I painted everything till it was finished. Then I made a hobby knife to poke a dot in the marine's chest. Then I started drilling with the hand drill, and then once it got bigger I drilled it (very carefully and slowly) with a power drill.
Once the whole was wide enough, I put some glue in the cavity and stuck the carinfex scythe in it. Once it was dry I used some screamer pink inside and around the whole to look like gore/organs. And then I caked a whole punch of Blood for the Blood God paint, and splattered it around before gluing the whole arm to the carnfiex's body.
This video shows how I got the 'splatter effect': https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TRBq7GVnJM
Here is the hand drill I used: https://www.amazon.ca/Army-Painter-Miniature-Model-Drill/dp/B07NNS3T87/ref=asc_df_B07NNS3T87/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=345785572955&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2604541665827026453&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a...
also here is one of those things i wish i was told about when i was new
i 10/10 recomend you getting it, i know i know it sucks having to sink money into a new hobby like this but by buying brush soap you will be able to save yourself allot of pain and money as your brushs without the ocasional cleaning will clog up and turn into an unusable stick xD
If you want to try the dice roller, here are the links:
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/rollhammer-battle-dice/id1548870360
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lastlevel.dicecup
Hi, thank you. I took inspiration from this video: How to paint Tyranids - Carnifex - HD tutorial by Medows - YouTube
Just swapped the red & purple for agrax and sepia, using ushabti as the edge colour and final highlight.
The wings and gun were sprayed with army painter centaur skin. IMO a really close fleshtone representation. GW pinks are more daemonic. Its not a nice paint by brush and advise premixing before loading into the hopper. Highlighted with vallejo pale flesh.
The darker pink on wings is thinned blood for the blood god (came out pinker than expected).
The joints, mouth and gun 'raw' flesh is greenstuffworld coagulated blood (thinned a little), this stuff is awesome (2 coats).
On the tail you may notice some undershading using thinned bloodreaver or vallejo dark fleshtone. The skin is rakarth and pallid highlights. AK masking putty helped..mask!
For varnish, I used two coats of pledge neat (thanks to catgul's coconut crab vid), which leaves a really strong protective seal, ending with vallejo matt 50/50 mix with thinner as its quite thick. Probably need another coat as its still pretty glossy :)
Look forward to sharing when based, going for jungle theme using aquarium plants.
Cheers.
I bought a pin vice drill, a small one about 4 inches long unless you have bigger hands. I got 2x1mm magnets and 1mm metal rods. I've just superglued the magnets so far, just gotta keep the connecting surface clear since they are so small.
This is the drill I got. Cheap but effective, bits are loose and unlabeled so you have to be careful to pick the right sizes out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MM4J26Y/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_bhO-FbA18W2C7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used 5mm for this guy.
These were the exact ones https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Tools-Miniature-Magnets/dp/B07RW3RDDD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=army+painter+magnets&qid=1606827055&sr=8-2
Oh. That's dots? Thoughts it was glitter for nails ( this kind ). I guess it's both terrible picture quality and good work. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I think they are called salon style sanders. I think I got it in a modelling kit from Amazon
I think this is the kit that had it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XCJ5YG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4zfDDbZN15F96
Or you could just get a Dremel with variable speeds but I found them to be a bit too powerful.
I'm in the same boat! Agree with the consensus that it's not critical for every model all the time, but definitely things like carnifexes that just have so many options. I went with this Amazon listing.
MagNetSol Magnets Combo Pack Miniatures (Qty 300 Magnets - 3 sizes, 3 Drill Bits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NHMCR9F/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Kp0TDbQQB6TRJ
battlescribe is a free 3rd party app (link is for Google play store) that let's you setup an army roster with the up to date (well up to date-ish, it's run by volunteers ) points. You need to have an idea of what your building in terms of the size of your army and what your models have. (start with a patrol, it'll let you know if there is something illegal in your list like 5 HQs and no troops) Best thing to do is search how to use battlescribe 40k. The 40k app is going to have a force builder but most people currently use battlescribe. Once you get the hang of it you can play with your army lists and make different ones as you please.
> impcat
probably this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.DesignBench.impcat&hl=gsw
Quote: "Currently (BETA 0.1.0 release – 27.03.2019) impcat provides 6 miniatures by Artel "W" and around 300 arylic paints by Acrylicos Vallejo."
I can give you a dump from paint rack which will list the colours, most of the rest is fairly simple:
PAINT SET: Leviathan
SET NOTES:
Skin: Screaming Skull - Citadel - 9068 Ushabti Bone - Citadel - 9067 Contrast Medium - Citadel - 27-33 Carroburg Crimson - Citadel
SUBSET NOTES: 3:1 or 3:2 carroburg/medium
Base: Stirland Battlemire - Citadel Classic - 26-07 Seraphim Sepia - Citadel Tyrant Skull - Citadel - 9126
Carapace : Shyish Purple - Citadel - 29-15 Genestealer Purple - Citadel - 9045 Dechala Lilac - Citadel - 9154
Claws/Guns : Nuln Oil - Citadel Squig Orange - Citadel - 9043 Kislev Flesh - Citadel - 9072 Flesh Tearers Red - Citadel - 29-13
SUBSET NOTES: 2 extra layers of nuln progressively up
Eyes : Yriel Yellow - Citadel - 9036 Flash Gitz Yellow - Citadel - 9037 Casandora Yellow - Citadel Abaddon Black - Citadel - 9027
Soft Flesh: Fyreslayer Flesh - Citadel - 29-31 Carroburg Crimson - Citadel Kislev Flesh - Citadel - 9072
Teeth : Ushabti Bone - Citadel - 9067 Skeleton Horde - Citadel - 29-26
Tongues: Screamer Pink - Citadel - 9030 Druchii Violet - Citadel Emperor's Children - Citadel - 9096 Kislev Flesh - Citadel - 9072
Adrianal Glands : Gryph-hound Orange - Citadel - 29-11 Ungor Flesh - Citadel - 9074
River Bed: Wyldwood - Citadel - 29-30 Seraphim Sepia - Citadel Tyrant Skull - Citadel - 9126
Psyker Bits: Nihilakh Oxide - Citadel - 27-06
Toxin Sacs: Warp Lightning - Citadel - 29-40
Powered by paintRack v1.32.0.2 for Android by Courageous Octopus! Get it now on Google Play at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.courageousoctopus.paintrack
literally the first google result I tried...
This is one I like; good grip and 5/16" keyless chuck: https://www.amazon.com/KISENG-0-5-8mm-Drill-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B01M08LS2V/ref=pd_sbs_469_5/130-5051293-2641129?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M08LS2V&pd_rd_r=d58b46f4-2d74-487d-9f9e-80f3c9b019a7&pd_rd_w=ikixJ&pd_rd_wg=KRTrU&pf_rd_p=b6...
Or if you wanna use a rotary tool, you can get bits with small shank and big head, like these ones: https://www.amazon.com/YXGOOD-Pieces-Tungsten-Carbide-Double/dp/B01MXURLTG/ref=psdc_256263011_t3_B000P49BX8
I'm using the Army Painter drill (https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Miniature-Model-Drill/dp/B07NNS3T87?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_marketplace for reference) with 2mm (if I remember correctly) magnets on my Warriors. For bigger creatures I think you should use 5mm, but that drill is too small for 5mm heads so you should find something else.
I have really good results with crafting magnets (the cheap sheet kind). You can buy them in a size just right for bases, and they give that doubled weight and add transport options!
I got mine from amazon. It's this one.
I should say, that one is not a small "hobby" pin vise.. that thing is an actual tool pin vise. So it has quite a bit weight to it. I was used the small hobby pin vices but they can't handle the 5mm drill bits i need for the arms of the big boys.
So now i am having one that can do 0,3mm to 3mm... and the one above, that handles 0,5 to 8mm.
Bought regular HSS drill bits. The ones i am using are 1mm, 2mm, 3mm and 5mm. I have used 0,5 and 0,8 on occasion, but that mostly just to reinforce some of the details on the models. For example, drilled in the "holes" that go along the tail of some of the tyranids and such.
Since the one i am having, has a bit of weight to it.... at first it bothered me, but eventually i learned to like it. I am letting the weight of the tool push onto the thing i am drilling. And an added bonus is.. its a great painting handle. I just wish it was flat at the bottom.
This is suuuper late, but you can get much cheaper bottles on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Dropper-Solvents-Electronic-cigarettes/dp/B01GVOMIKI/ref=pd_sbs_121_15?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GVOMIKI&pd_rd_r=90abfb2a-151f-49f4-a73b-4cb6cd7dfdfd&pd_rd_w=g6I3O&pd_rd_wg=B7PAK&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-...
Those are fairly large, but if you you airbrush thinner to wash out the Citadel/whoever pot, it can give you thinned paint, ready to rock!
https://www.amazon.com/Princeton-Artist-Brush-Synthetic-Filbert/dp/B0043G9A7Q This is the brush I use. Its cheap and synthetic but works perfectly. Cheap enough I hope so you don't need to wreck an old brush
I put the smaller models in the trays and the bigger ones up top separated by terrain and my dice bag
Plano 1374 4-By Rack System 3700 Size Tackle Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E3FKTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_7BsSDHkZZ3ogU
I have 2 of these plus a 5 drawer plastic organizer for models I’m not taking anywhere. Not that I’ve played since 2nd edition but...just in case...
A Dewalt Toolchest I picked up from Home Depot on sale for $25, then craft foam from Micheals, roughly cut to fit the big models, adn some cheap troop foam for gants and genestealers.
All together I spent about $65 on it, and the most expensive part was the the foam for my troops.