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Yep. These devices are made for that application.
If you store your car outdoor, I'd recommend getting a car cover similar to this (get one that fit your car), which will reduce paint damage from UV exposure. I also put the car on a tarp to reduce rust under it (I live in Canada, this is good for winter especially).
If you live in an area where it can go below freezing, leave your fuel tank completely full.
Fuel stabilizer is a good idea, but not necessary for 5 months.
If you want, you can also over inflate your tires to prevent them from flat spotting. Again, this is not necessary, more like the cherry on top.
​
So, to summarize, get a battery maintainer and a tarp if outdoor. Change the oil when you come back. If you stay for like 6 months, then leave the oil in the car when you leave and change when you are about to drive it.
You could buy a coolant tester and see where it sits, then syphon off some and replace with coolant until it is what you are looking for. They are pretty cheap, here is an example:
OP, listen to this guy.
If you have an outlet within 20 feet of the car, you can install a battery tender harness on your battery terminals, and hook the battery tender right up to it. Ideally you could even fish the end out through the grille an inch and zip tie it for easy access.
Easy to deal with and will keep your battery charged when you need it, without having to take it out of the car. My vehicles have all been on tenders all year because of COVID, and even in normal times they’re great for motorcycles, boats, weekend/summer car, etc
I just got a new crosstrek, and I did this thing to it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TJCnQ8uLD8
I can't listen to the video I linked to, but it appears to show the same replacement. I'm not sure where they got that part, but I got mine from amazon for $12.
It took me longer to open the package than it took to install this thing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CIYPUX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit:
Ok, the video is for a magnetic thing after you install an ecohitch. My link is to a part that just replaces the body colored cover panel, which the video shows something similar to, that works with no additional parts. The point is, it goes from a bland body colored cover to a textured one that looks more appropriate on the car, it costs $12, and it's dead simple to do.
Is this what you're referring to by clay bar?
I'll give the Windex/409 a shot first, since I have that lying around.
Thanks for the advice!
is the bolt hanging out the other side? if so you could grab it with some visegrips and turn it out. if you broke it because you couldn't get the terminal tight enough then use a post shim.
I was in exactly your shoes with a Chrysler SRS light. I bought this one for $80-90 on Amazon. It can read and clear ABS and SRS codes as well as the normal OBDII codes. Definitely don’t believe that $500 comment—this one has been more than capable for me as a shade tree’er, and DEFINITELY can clear as well as read.
You get one brand free, then each additional one is a $10 one time fee. I’ve used it on Honda, Chrysler, Ford, and I believe a Dodge. I think a friend used it on his Saab once as well.
I have this one and really like it, especially for the price, though I think I paid about $80 a while back. Used it to clear SRS several times, including resetting an OPDS sensor in an Accord, and pinpointing exactly what the issue was with a Sebring.
It looks a lot like an electronic rust inhibitor box. Judging by the wires it seems even more like one of those.
Do you live in the rust belt or an area that gets snow in the winter or near salt water?
I've been storing my summer car for years outside. Cold isn't a problem for anything other than the battery. Just make sure it stay charged (you can buy a cheap battery maintainer). At worse, the battery may die, but that's cheap to replace. You could purchase a portable jump starter that you keep inside. (This is an example, I haven't looked the reviews, so do that if you want one.)
In my case, I take the battery out of the car since it won't run for the whole season, but it may not be convenient for you.
You really don't need to do anything for the engine. You could install a block heater so it is a bit easier to start, but it isn't really useful for anything other than comfort.
If you do not use synthetic oil, you could switch to one as they are more stable in temperature variant (for example, synthetic oil remains more liquid when cold than mineral one, so the car will be easier to start).
But really, don't overthink this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JAP7388/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_HIlBFbZ142VGD
I would recommend this. It clears out any smells I've ever had to battle. The time you use it for might have to be adjusted based on how bad the smell is. Unlike other products, this actually destroys the odor with O3, it doesn't mask it like febreeze. I use this in cars, unoccupied rooms in houses, etc. Make sure you read the instructions properly bc if it is not aired properly it can be dangerous. Use it when no one is in the car. You don't want to breathe this in, it is bad for you.
I don't know the characteristics of the trash, I would also recommend getting it shampooed. If there is liquid on the bottom of the trash bag, with a simple hole, it might have seeped into the carpet. A shampoo and this O3 deodorizer will most likely get the job done.
Keep cars parked inside garage. Make sure there is no food source in the garage: dog food, bird food, etc. Block any holes. Make sure your garage door seals are good. Fill any holes in the wall with spray foam or steel wool.
Set traps. Use the cheap spring traps baited with a little bit of syrup. Place near the edges of the wall. These boxes work well, even without bait. Just place along the wall and the mice instinctually go through the hole in the box.
The first thing I would try is switching to high mileage motor oil. It has additives to swell the seals to help reduce leaks.
https://www.valvoline.com/en-eur/when-to-start-using-high-mileage-oil/
The next thing I would try if that doesn't work is Blue Devil stop leak. I had a leak in my transfer case that would require a rebuild or replacement and this stopped it completely.
Unfortunately, oil consumption is how most motors die. So either way, you're probably living on borrowed time to some extent.
Pine trees in two sides of our house provided good shade but also mucked up two of our double-hung windows. I originally bought for one of our cars which had calcified water spots on the glass. Worked for both uses. If it's bad, attach the cleaning pad to a drill or buffing machine.
Sorry to be bothering you again..
https://www.amazon.ca/12-14-Honda-Civic-Splash-Guards/dp/B00IUC7MVA/
Are these the one im looking for?
Picture of the car: https://i.ibb.co/Zc8Y9zX/IMG-20220721-170332.jpg
I just need on part, maybe 5" x 5", not the whole set
2016 Chevrolet Sonic.
https://www.amazon.com/2012-2019-2013-2016-Replacement-2M-PLASTIC/dp/B08NCKJGG2
It looks like it has one of those arrow insertions that flares out when you attach it, but when I pull on it my entire ceiling starts getting pulled with it.
Oh good call! That's exactly what it looks like and it would explain the buzzing, and why the front looks like a lense.
So apparently Toyota has negative switched headlights, which don't work with LED's unless you do some extensive rewiring or find a conversion harness, something like this one and even then it is not sure if it will work. I will be returning my LED headlights.
Thanks for all the help and input guys !
I've used about 3-4 for my car and this is easily the best one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I608BJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SJX3R6ETJZRVZH5ZVHBD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's magnetic, so it's easy and to put on and take off your phone plus you can stick the mount literally anywhere in your car.
I would look into one or several larger grommets (or 'Firewall Seals') and plenty of wiring loom.
In my personal experiences, any wiring going through a tight metal space (I.e. firewall) will be loomed and mummified in electrical tape to prevent potential for rubbing. If I have multiple looms going out of one grommet, I will wrap electrical tape starting at the grommet, and out onto the loom to create a better seal on the outside in the engine bay. Then I will wrap in some cloth tape for helping with longevity -- but all of it is reversible with a stitch puller or utility knife if I need to go in and make any changes or additions in the future.
CANOPUS Decal Remover Eraser Wheel - Adhesive, Pinstripe, Sticker, Vinyl Removal Tool Kit for Cars, RVs, Boats - 4 inch Rubber Pad with Drill Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RVH36L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RAGMDCJYES35YTMSE6PB
Four clamps will do it. Here's a set off Amazon. You can also get some weather stripping to go around the top of your bed, though it's not necessary. Just make sure to measure the cap's length and width. Many junkyards have a few set up before you even go through the rows of cars, and if it doesn't work, you could always just exchange it before you leave their parking lot.
No... To all of that. Dont change the thickness of any wires and do not use any fewer. Each ground wire is specific to something, so removing one could disable some electronics in your car. Decreasing the thickness can also cause some electrical problems because the gauge used is generally based off amperage.
What you can do it get a different connector for the battery terminal. You can try something like this. I haven't used these exact ones, but I've used something similar.
They make adapters for all kinds of bolt patterns, have you checked google for the two patterns you need?
Something like this may be a valid option if you have the extra inch or so for the spacer to sit out.
I don't vouch for the quality of those ones, but it shouldn't be hard to find a more reputable brand that has a website or better info than the anonymous ebay stores.
When buying tires on marketplace, learn how to read the datecode on the side of the tires and buy a tread depth gauge https://smile.amazon.com/GODESON-88702-Smart-Color-Coded/dp/B0793HMWP1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=HOBCD0FJ4LH3&keywords=tread+depth+gauge&qid=1643047091&sprefix=tread+depth+gaug%2Caps%2C281&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXV....
Don't buy tires that are 8+ years old. Don't buy tires less than 6/32 of tread. Inspect the tires for any damage. Use your intuition to only buy from trusty sellers (why are they selling the tires, does their reason make sense).
The problem is that the leads are not just metal sticks, the wiring to them can be a problem. The biggest thing is that high resistance will change the voltage readings and some of the cheap meters come with crap leads, like copper plated aluminum wires or real junk for the probes that can raise the resistance. Not a big thing at a few volts but at the millivolt level it can make a difference. For this job I would look at this meter as it isn't auto ranging and will go down to 200 mv to make it easier.
I recommend something like this. Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_6C4Q6VX4K93GPEEEWZRQ
It has a hose you run up the AC drip tube under the car so you clean exactly the right spot.
I usually just browse forums until I find some guy trying to fit a surfboard or whatever in the car, and another nice user goes through the trouble of taking measurements for them. There's no central repository of interior dimensions that I'm aware of.
There is for Subaru, because Subaru owners are just like that and come up with shit like this for every model. Besides that, you usually have to dig.
Look on Amazon, there are some that are meters with charging ports, like this that might work for you.
Good taste! Was it a CBR600?
I honestly just kept my eyes on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace. Every now and then, I'll find one for 11-12k, and it'll get snatched up by the end of the day. They do exist though. I got mine from an owner who abused it, but was diligent with mantinence, for 5,700. 3rd engine, 2nd transmission, whole interior was swapped in from an AP2, but I swear on my life I never had a problem in a year of daily driving it to school with 15 degree cold starts. Deals like that are out there, it just takes time to find one
​
Something like this, the guy might negotiate down, you get it for 9 or 10k, and when you're done driving it, you have a 17-20k car! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/725061137973333/
These work great but you need to be careful as you can burn your paint if you are to aggressive with it.
Wonder Wheel 4" Decal Remover Eraser Wheel Toolkit, Remove Car Decals, Vinyl & Stickers in Minutes, Adhesive Remover Rubber Wheel, Emblem Removal Tool, Adhesive Eraser, Drill Adapter Supplied https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VFACQRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8P145873HGP67GEP7M4A
Regardless, adhering anything, be it suction cup or adhesive, will be less damaging when done to glass.
I would caution on using suction cups, as they will require regular maintenance.. the aforementioned go pro motorsport mount works fine for a day or so, but no seal is perfect and it will start to loosen up..
Better approach would be to VHB bond a gopro mount base to the glass, and attach your desired accoutrement to a matching go-pro mount.
https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Mounts-GoPro-Cameras-Accessories/dp/B00JCTQ3RE
Oh, I didn't even think about snow. I'm in Colorado so we do get reasonably deep snow from time to time.
I've just been looking on Amazon. Something like this -
> I am just starting out so anything helps !
Automotive manufacturers spend millions of dollars in R&D to place the intake in the most efficient place possible so changing that doesn't really help. Most cheap CAIs just intake hot air which reduces power. Most CAIs that actually work are very very expensive and could be DIYd by a competent person for much cheaper. None of it matters if you can't add more fuel to the added air density. Your ECU may add that if it can measure the change properly, but most can't.
I really think this book and it's worth a read if you're interested in learning how things work in cars.
It's firmly in the weeds but you'll learn all of the sensors that an engine uses, how engines calculate fueling, how the ECU controls outputs like fuel injectors and VVT. If you want to learn, it's a really good source.
If you're interested in fixing this car yourself, a Haynes manual would be an excellent investment. It will have all the answers you need.
Remember to disconnect the battery before trying to fiddle with any electrical connections.
Change the brake hoses. They deteriorate from the inside, block the flow of fluid and cause the calipers to cease. It's a cheap and easy fix, I got my '07 Sportage for free because of this. Use Bosch ESI6-32N Brake Fluid as the replacement when you flush the fluid. It's an interference engine so replace the timing belt & water pump unless your friend has proof of maintenance.
Meh I just bought a box of hundreds of random clips from Amazon.
Bound to be something that fits in there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM22XTN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Y6XYCMN9PHX9YVEEQ45V
I've got this one and it has worked well for me, if that specific model isn't the best fit for you that brand makes a lot of different chargers.
Do you have access to a 110 outlet near where you park your car? If you do grab yourself something like this. It comes with a quick disconnect so you can quickly unhook it when you do want to drive your car.
If you don't have access to a power outlet, but you do have access to sunshine, the same company also makes this. You can leave the solar panel on the outside of your windshield as long as you don't think anyone will steal it, or you can get creative with the wiring so you can mount it inside the car instead. If you don't have a lot of 12v experience I'd suggesting getting help from someone who does before attempting that though.
Lastly, if your 12V battery is currently dead and has died multiple times, you're going to want to replace it. Every time your battery goes dead it does significant damage to the internals. This will severely reduce the battery's capacity and can leave you stranded, so make sure that your battery is in good health. Before you replace it, you can bring your current battery to any auto parts store and they will test it for free.
Probably a bad alternator. That is the part that is responsible for charging the battery while you drive.
You can get that tested at most chain auto parts stores.
In the meantime get yourself a small portable jump starter so you are never stranded.
Try a gps tracker but a kill switch and an alarm like Clifford or viper would work. If the car is really that important, store it in a garage and not on the street or in public view.
Spytec GPS GL300 GPS Tracker for Vehicles, Car, Truck, RV, Equipment, Mini Hidden Tracking Device for Kids and Seniors, Use with Smartphone and Track Real-Time Location on 4G LTE Network https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S7DVT33/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_VRBaGbFYKHQB1
I’m trying to figure this out right now too. I ordered something like the valve extensions to try to make the valve for the outer tire curve back outside so it’s accessible. But it seems crazy to me that they build these dual tire vehicles like this and leave the driver struggling to figure out how to fill or check the air on these tires.
CKAuto 6 Pack 45 Degree 90 Degree 135 Degree Metal Valve Stem Extenders, Universal Valve Stem Extensions, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9NXJDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_n9i8FbRAJXMPX
Get it on there tight. You will hopefully need to hit it with a hammer/mallet. If not, go one size down.
I've been in your situation before (many times lol) and was recommended this stuff but never ordered it. Just FYI.
You can try rounded bolt kits like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ROCKETSOCKET-Impact-Extractor-Remove-Damaged/dp/B07R7HR632
Not the cheapest solution, but buy them once and they've got your back for all future rounded bolt/nut nightmares.
Other options would be to cut a slot in the head of the bolt with a Dremel and then use a flathead screwdriver, perhaps. Depends on how much room there is around it.
dashcamtalk.com in addition to the subreddit
I got this kit, which is more than you need, but made it extremely easy to wire into the fuse box and I wanted front and rear.
Edit: my windshield has one of the clear tint products from Llumar but it doesn't interfere with the front camera at all. If your tint is dark enough to make the video unclear, you should remove it.
Well, the basic idea would be to cancel out the less desirable sounds and amplify the deeper sounds. Don't just remove the entire exhaust system and straight pipe it. You'll want to either keep or replace the OEM resonator(s), then incorporate a small muffler that will help eliminate rasp and drone. I used this muffler and I'm really pleased with how it sounds.
Like this.
Amazon has a new unpainted right front fender selling for $90.16 https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA16972025512-Fender-Hyundai-Elantra/dp/B009DJSQ3C Some YouTube videos will show how to replace the damaged fender, probably take a Saturday and some socket wrenches to replace, then spray painting. Good hands on repair experience for a young'n like yourself. You may decide it's best to buy her car outright, it's all fixable, not totaled.
If you can afford to buy a decent car for your aunt do so, it'll take some time for you to get around to fix the damaged car. If her insurance is full collision insured she might get a rental until a shop can do the repairs, though she'll take a hit on increased insurance rates even though you were not at fault. Perhaps you can afford to buy a decent used car for a grand or so that she can use to get around until hers is repaired. Shit happens in life, do the right thing by your aunt as much as you can. In the grand scheme of life, years from now you'll be proud that you did the right thing by her. No one got injured right? Then it's just metal and plastic that can get fixed. Humans aren't as easily fixed. :/
I've a long illustrious career with shitboxes and this used to happen an awful lot when me and friends were in college. Your experience may vary but we found it was due to seals getting older and water (or even just "moisture") coming in to the car and getting in the soft furnishings. We found that filling the car with a couple of dehumidifier products worked perfectly.
Options are:
- Periodicically put an electric dehumidifier in the car (most efficient, most "arse") - it may be worth doing this first if you can get your hands on one temporarily?
- Place large bags of silica gel somewhere in the car (rear footwells?)
- The one I've had most success with recently is the UniBond Aero 360 that we can buy in B&Q here
I'd advise buying two of the UniBond, a couple of additional refills, then: making sure they stay upright when driving; and empty them every couple of days. I've found the "pucks" in there last ~2-4 weeks.
Best thing to do is to get an OBDII scanner. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A but they're really all pretty much the same.
The app Torque will connect and run the scan for free (additional features in the paid version but the trouble code check is in the base).
This will at least let you know why the light is/was on.
To answer your first question; no, it varies by state. My state for example, has a vehicle requirement for 15 years or newer. Secondly, I was interested in these ones on amazon. Although out of my budget, I wonder how well they hold up.
I bought mine off amazon for super cheap. This one should do the trick. 8MILELAKE Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool 24pc Professional Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set
That would work well.
There's also the low-tech version
Turn on when vehicle is running, turn off when vehicle is off.
They actually make a product specifically for what you need https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Protect-Universal-Advanced-Technology/dp/B07L2L12C2?th=1
Or just use a heavy duty clear zip lock bag and zip tie it or tape like the other guy said. Pull the back around the "neck" of the mirror and put the tape on tight around the skinny part. That should hold it tight without putting tape on the car itself.
I always have these handy just in case. You can grab the end of the filter with it.
Locking Grip Oil Filter Remover Wrench Tool Vise Vice Holding Gripping Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQJY60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uCU9Cb0RTT12W
You're going to need to buy an aftermarket radio, speakers, and some electrical tools like a multimeter, some wire cutters/strippers/crimpers. They're often sold as one big tool at places like Autozone and Walmart.
You can get as fancy as you want or stay as practical as you want. You can buy 4 speakers, one for each door, and that should cover any generic radio. But depending on the radio, you may have up to 8 or more speakers you could wire in.
The radio will come with a plug connector and a diagram. You're going to need to wire in ground, and switched 12 volt to power the thing. This can be accomplished by grounding your negative terminal to the chassis of the car, having the key off, and poking around, then turning the key to the accesory position (right before you actually crank the engine)
So, once you've found your ground and 12v, disconnect the battery, run some wires, and use butt connectors to connect the ground and 12v wires from your new radio to the car's electrical system.
Then, you just need to figure out a way to mount the radio in place, mount the speakers in the doors, and run wires to them. You'll probably have to pull the dash out, drill holes in your doors, and route the cables with some protective cover to keep them from getting pinched in the door.
The speakers also have a positive and a negative, so you'll need to run two wires for each speaker. Use your multimeter, and you can test the speakers before acutally crimping them by just putting the wires together. It won't shock you or anything. Crimp all your connections, and clean everything back up.
Then you're good to go!
It's pretty involved but if you know what you're doing it isn't hard. If you have no idea, I'd start with swapping out an older car's radio for an aftermarket one.
Yeah there is also the weirdest looking port in the center console that is used to connect iPods.
Edit: I found this? Its a little but more than what I was hoping to spend but it looks like it would work perfectly.
The gasket itself is only about $22. If you're not afraid of a little DIY you can likely do it yourself in a day (though I've never done an ecotec head gasket so I'm not sure exactly whats involved).
Thanks for the answer! This is the first time we've been met with a car that recommends a variety of oils. We've only owned Chevy, Jeep, and Toyota in the past and they all have a pre-set oil viscosity they want irregardless of your climate.
I'm in New England USA which means its fairly moderate. Warm summers, chilly winters but rarely anything into the extremes.
Our cars mostly run 5W-30 which is why I was hoping we could get away with using that if it is a direct place in.
I'm thinking of using the Mobil 1 European Formula https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120760-Synthetic-Motor-0W-40/dp/B00HG76A9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478619568&sr=8-1&keywords=mobil+1+european+car+formula+0w-40
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/how-to-change-oil-mercedes-benz-diy-instructions-video/
Because that website recommended it. But I see it nowhere listed on the MB 229.5 page. Only general Mobil1 shows up there Thanks!
Edit: Got the Castrol 0W-40 :) all good
Thanks, hub bearing seems to be what it is.
I've never replaced them before and I'm kind of confused. I guess it's two pieces and I can just replace the bearing since it's the wear part? or are there instances where I need to replace both?
Also if I just replace the bearing I have to get it pressed together right? Does that require special tools/a shop?
I found this on Amazon, since it says assembly that means it's the hub and the bearing pressed together already, right?
It's all in the details....
Get it? Detail your car inside, under the hood, and outside. Make it look new or as close to it as you can get.
Here is a great product to remove hard water spots from exterior glass: Driven Premium Acid Gel (https://www.amazon.com/DRIVEN-Extreme-Duty-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B0021YZER2/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473349298&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=driben+premium+acid+gel)
Our 2006 Scion xB lived its first two years in Los Angeles, CA and was subjected to automatic car washes. Its windows, looking at an angle, showed thousands of water spots. We tried many methods of removal but it was Driven that did the trick. Remember it is acid based so wear gloves and hose it off the window and paint as you go along.
What a difference it made! Glass looks new AND unbeknownst to us, markedly improved our outward view.
I'm not a manical detailer so sure that others have more to offer.
Been busy today but I'm gonna take a look in a couple hours.
And here you go
AnzoUSA 121308 Black Clear Dual Projector Halo Headlight for Dodge Challenger - (Sold in Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZIISSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5GrWxb489MB4R
Even if you don't have a Volkswagen, John Muir's Idiots Guide has the best write ups I've ever seen breaking down just how the parts work, plus a some solid advice along the way about how to diagnose problems and be safe while working. Your library may have a copy. It's worth the read if you skip the individual procedures.
I have two of these since they seem to magically walk away. I won't use a regular ratchet wrench anymore.
Other tools I love are these GearWrench combo wrenches. Those tools, some vice grips (I have a big and small set), and universal wobble adapters with extensions are almost all I use. A set of EZ Out (broken screw removers) are nice to have. Harbor Freight tools will be fine, especially if you're not sure how much you will use a certain one. Then just replace the broken tool with better quality.
Further suggestions are to go ahead and buy a couple extra individual sockets (8, 10, 12, 1/2", whatever you use the most) since these seem to disappear more than anything else and it's nice to have spares. I don't like 12 point sockets because I feel like they're weaker than their 6 point counterparts.