I think the only way it could be a mistake is if A: you realize later you don't enjoy trying to get good at pool and B: the amount of money you spent really stings.
For me, trying to get good and diving deeper into pool was really enjoyable. It's fun to just hit balls around but it's really fun being GOOD at the game, and knowing that if you have a random room full of people you can probably beat all of them.
Your choice of table is great. Not only is Diamond a popular standard for tournaments, it's cheaper (brand new) than the other big name brand, Brunswick. But it's just as good, many would argue better. It's got more methods built in to level it, making it easier to set up for flawless play.
The pockets are tighter than the average Brunswick and certainly tighter than a Valley, and when I was still learning, I thought Diamonds were scary. But over time I realized they're not THAT much tighter than a typical pool room Brunswick, and you mostly just need to adjust to the lively rails.
I think you'll enjoy it. I dunno where your skill is at but spend a few bucks on the 99 Critical Shots and practice the shots on your new table. Be a good way to get used to it and learn something.
Actually what's more likely and easy is that the cameraman is using invisible thread that's stuck to the 8 ball with a tiny bit of wax. Invisible thread is what magicians use to levitate things. The camera shakes because it's the cameraman who pulls the thread, causing the 8 ball to roll towards him.
Weekend woodworker here. This looks reparable, assuming you can get a few clamps on either side of the piece to hold it together while you glue it.
For glue, use Franklin International 1414 Titebond III Ultimate.
For clamps, use some Pipe-style clamps, like these. You'll need a clamp for every 6" or so of the crack.
If you have an air compressor or a can of air, like you use for cleaning computer parts, blow out anything that is in the crack. Probably will have some dust and small wood particles you want out before you glue it down.
Fill it with glue, clamp it down, and let it set for at least 24 hours and don't even look at it. Then, release your clamps and it should hold tight.
this may not be ideal, but if you want a quick and easy solution you should check out a pocket reducer. they are quick to put on and take off and you won't have to do any major work to your table.
I think you have a frankensteined set, they don't really look like premiers https://www.amazon.com/Aramith-Billiard-Balls-Premier-Belgian/dp/B004OOM2GS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=aramith+premier&qid=1624318351&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2.
Can't really complain about a free set though.
The Inner Game of Tennis is a book that was recommended to my roughly 20 years ago by a lifer of a pool player, even has his own nickname. His recommendation was based on similar problems that I was having back then. I have passed on his recommendation dozens of times and I still own a copy. It's a quick and easy read and applies to your situation. It doesn't really "fix" anything but there are many similarities between tennis and billiard games (and boxing too!) and it addresses some of the difficulties of the mental performance side.
Looks cool. I was looking around for a similar solution as well and found a couple below. Yours looks great though!
I had jb cases add the ballholder in my lid. Also there is one for sale on Amazon as well.
>subconscious shotmaking ability, which is actually pretty powerful
THIS is such an important point. But let me help anyone reading this with a how-to.
It's not your "subconscious shotmaking ability." It is, in fact your RIGHT brain doing the work. And that inner voice of doubt or distraction. That's your left brain.
The good news is, you can summon your right brain pool master at will. it starts with learning to recognize left and right brain dominance then presenting yourself a right brain problem and allowing your right brain to dominate.
Sound crazy? Maybe. But I once read a book by an art professor that teaches people how to draw with a pencil and paper. Her students go from drawing stick figures to drawing full renderings. Her name is Betty Edwards and her books include "Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain" where she teaches the reader how to turn on right brain mode and draw like a master.
My right brain inducing takes place in my pre shot routine. I look down the shot line between the ball and pocket (or rail) then I rotate myself around the table while looking and maintaining a visualization of the line. In effect, I create a 2d representation of the shot line in my mind (right brain job)
I encourage everyone to learn more about their left-right brain nature and how the right brain contributes to their game. Reading Betty Edward's book on drawing can enlighten you well beyond the sketch pad by exposing you to proven right brain inducing methods.
Sign up and download here: http://vponline.celeris.com/vp4onprod
My profile here: http://vponline.celeris.com/player/view/19 (think you need to be logged in to see it)
If you see me in the lobby, hit me up for some racks.
Don't forget the first one... https://smile.amazon.com/Byrnes-Standard-Book-Pool-Billiards/dp/0156005549/
The Standard book was where I started my journey 30 years ago. Followed immediately by 99 Critical Shots
Apologies if you already know this, but you should get a tool to help you maintain the tip. Everyone has their own preferences, but two popular ones are the Willard Tool and the Last4Ever. The curvature of the tip can make a difference, and players usually shape their tip so that it has the curvature of a dime (more curved) or a nickel (less curved). I think the normal advice is to start with the nickel, but other might have more to say on this.
Check out the works from Robert Byrne, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Byrne_(author), if you would enjoy reading and watching instructional materials about pool. I don't know if there's anyone on the planet who knows more about the game than he does.
Here would be my recommendations:
Byrne's Standard Video of Pool Volumes 1, 2 and 5. (3 and 4 are trick shot videos so they're not that important). The only issue is that only 5 is on DVD. 1 and 2 are on VHS and you'll need to grab them used off Amazon or Ebay.
If you want to read I would suggest Byrne's New Standard of Pool and Billiards
These are the materials that helped me, hopefully they can help you too. Good luck!
What about something like this? JOY COLORFUL Bicycle Bags Bicycle Front Tube Frame Cycling Packages 4.2,4.8,5.5 inches Touch Screen Mobile Phone Bags Professional Bicycle Accessories (Black, Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWK7S2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dcWKBb1FHC6DD
The Velcro straps should allow you to affix it to your case.
Or try asking other players if they have an old single case they are willing to give you / give the pouch off of. I’ve received free single cases w a cue purchase before, there’s a chance someone has something extra collecting dust in a closet.
Nobody reads anymore :) ...but the single best way you can spend ~$10 or less to learn is this book: The 99 Critical Shots in Pool.
It shows pretty much all the common shots that come up in various games, plus tips on how to control the cue ball to set up for the next shot, which is important to play pool at a decent level.
You can bring the book and work on the shots 1 by 1, in order or not.
Youtube videos are great, but they tend to deliver info kind of slowly, in a way that forces you to sit still for a long time to cover each concept. The book meanwhile has so much good essential info packed into a single place. It's the closest thing I know of to a 'quickstart guide' for pool.
9Ball ScoreMaster written by Michael Hardin. Took me a while to find as the name is not easily searchable. Type the name just as it appears above or click here.
Maybe try something like the GoPlayPool app? It has a pretty extensive directory of pool halls organized by state and city. Look at the upcoming towns on your route and then call and see if their equipment is up to your standards. ;)
Personally I find Lucasi to be one of the best bang for your buck cues out there. They are however about $160.00 to start when new but I'm sure you could find a decent used one. If you like a light cue try to stay below 20oz.
Check out the for sale section of azbilliards.com some of those cues though can get VERRRRRYYYY expensive. You can probably find a decent sneaky pete for around your price range.
Also in case it is not obvious. You DO NOT want a jump cue for regular play.
And why buy your own balls? If you are playing at a decent pool hall the balls should be clean and good to go.
I think if you pull a muscle to the point where it causes sharp pain hours later, you would sort of know, you'd feel it at the time you did it, because it means you physically tore the muscle. It wouldn't like... creep up on you.
I'm not sure what else it could be... maybe sciatica. https://www.webmd.com/back-pain/what-is-sciatica
Basically, one of the spongy flesh cushions between the bones in your spinal cord gets inflamed, and bulges out. It then touches a nerve (which can just be on the left or right side of your spine) and that causes all sorts of painful effects... could be steady pain, sudden sharp stabby pains, could be numbness or tingling too.
Not a doctor but I would take a bunch of ibuprofin (advil) which helps reduce swelling. This will be useful whether it's a bulging disc or a torn muscle. Give it a couple of days and try not to play or lift anything during that time. If it doesn't go away, talk to a doc.
If you have the patience to read and not just do videos, get the 99 Critical Shots in Pool.
It is the best explanation of stuff like this, and it's got so much more, and it's not a long book. It's the first thing I recommend for any new player and it's only like $2.00 used.
To answer your question:
English definitely can cause your object ball to move on a different path than it would with no english. Sometimes the difference is small (like half an inch off the intended path) and sometimes it's a lot (like 4 inches off, enough to definitely miss your shot).
This effect is called "throw" and how much throw you get, depends on how much spin you apply, how hard you hit, and even how clean or dirty the balls are.
So you must be careful with sidespin. Eventually you will learn to compensate for it. But heavy sidespin shots will almost always be tricky. There's also a sidespin effect called deflection, and another called curve or swerve. Those can also affect the path of the shot, and again it might be enough to make you miss the ball.
Bottom line, you want to understand about throw, curve/swerve, and deflection, or it will hold your game back. The book is good for doing that.
If you want a REALLY complete explanation complete with tons of video, Dr. Dave's VEPS collection is also excellent, but costs a lot more. Just the disk on english is ~$30.
I'd recommend using a product like Prezi to avoid the huge chart/ tiny text problem. If you check out item 3 and 4 (zoom and free movement) you can see how you can set it up to zoom in and out of different scales to reveal different levels of detail for each situation. Great presentation tool all around.
haha this almost reads like trolling :) But ok...
Outside by a tree? If the tree is close enough to cast light downward rather than diagonally, then it might get in the way of the cue. You need a lot of space around the table to accomodate a shot where most of the cue is hanging off the rail.
But if the tree is far enough away to be comfortable, then the best you can do is a sort of diagonal spotlight. I've played in lighting conditions like that and it's not pleasant. Shooting one direction feels like you're looking at the sun, and the shadows are super harsh. It's like being a jacklit deer.
Maybe if there's a perfect-height branch dangling directly over the table? You can hang some pre-built solar security lamps off the branch? Maybe use a couple and some diffusing material so it's not too harsh?
An outdoor tent would solve a lot of weather and light-mounting problems: https://www.amazon.com/ShelterLogic-Peak-Style-AutoShelter-Sandstone/dp/B003AQLCI0/
Yup, there's a few books on pattern play. For some reason all the good pool books are old, it's like nobody writes books on pool anymore. This one is from 1998 but is still full of useful info:
How would you play this? by George Fels
Also worth checking out are Phil Capelle's books on 8b and 9b... Play Your Best 8 Ball and Play Your Best 9 Ball.
Yours is likely a mizerak, I have seen half a dozen of these in the past year, very inexpensive. They were a big Walmart seller due to being unique, then fell out of popularity.
Issues I have personally seen is they warp at the butt where those key rings are located.
Tips are bad and unplayable.
Shafts warped.
The last two are very common with old cues, but the first one is fairly unique to this cue.
https://www.amazon.com/Mizerak-Recreation-4-Piece-Hardwood-57-Inch/dp/B000BFXQT6
It's not a $100 cue by anymeans, you could scam some poor guy out of his $100, but it's worth $25-$30 in good condition.
I don't use it too often on my own cue because it does seem to take a tiny amount of wood off, but it's nice to have if I'm gonna play off the wall and the house cues are sticky/grimy.
For the money? I like this Players C960 Cue, it goes for about $115, they have 3 colors and 7 weights available. And, you can get it off Amazon...
This was my first decent cue, and I still play with it often. I gifted a second one to my son. It's a great cue for the money!
What are the goals for your team? For fun or competitive driven? If it's fun, then your goals as Captain is to ensure everyone who wanted to play, got to play. This means by end of the season, everyone should have the same number of matches. If it's a competitive team, then you or the coach will have to make the hard decision of telling a player to sit out.
If being Captain is stressful, ask another player to help shared the load by being Co-Captain.
If you're looking to be more competitive, check out "How to Be the Captain of a Winning APA 8-ball Team by Captain John Loftus". I lent it to a friend who Captained a team for three years chasing the Las Vegas dream. He concurred with many of the strategies in the book, that he learn from trial and error.
<strong>https://www.amazon.com/How-Captain-Winning-8-ball-Team/dp/1412047064</strong>
I think the 99 Critical Shots is a great way to learn, even if using a book might sound a bit outdated vs. youtube. It's the closest thing pool has to a quickstart guide. You just bring the book to your pool room and practice the shots 1 by 1.
They start you off with the basics (no english) and then go on to cover how to use follow, draw, and then sidespin.
I have some suggestions on what to learn in the right order as well (which more or less match the book's): https://www.reddit.com/r/billiards/comments/c0gh85/what_should_my_natural_progress_look_like/er5f8nb/
I haven't personally tried Solarez, but I've heard from other cuemakers who have tried it that it was "just ok".
I have tried several epoxy finish techniques in the past and I've struggled to get it to really bond well with bare woods. I had better luck basecoating the bare wood with superglue, then finishing with epoxy over it.
The most annoying thing with epoxy finishes is they seem to bubble and separate from the underlying wood a lot easier than auto clear. I've had the best luck with automotive clear which I spray on with an airbrush. I found a good kit on amazon that comes with a compressor and a decent airbrush. I've used this kit for about three years now and it's been great:
I buy my auto clear in the smallest cans possible. The clear I use is two part. Four parts of clear mixed with one part activator. I use cheap plastic drinking cups as mixing containers and I bought a bulk pack of pipettes to mix up the small amounts of clear you use for cue finishing.
Make sure your plastic mixing cups are recycle code 1 or 2 (polyethelene) which is resistant to solvents. Recycle code 5 and 6 (polyprop or polystyrene) melt immediately when exposed to solvents. I buy the cheap clear party cups at the store and they work fine.
I thin the clearcoat quite a lot with lacquer thinner, especially for the first coat so the clear soaks deep into the surface and gets a good grip to build subsequent coats onto.
If you do try the Solarez, let me know how you like it. I've been paying attention to other makers impressions of it but most go back to their prior method after trying it on a few cues.
This should help you identify pool cues in your possession. I wouldn't pay for any significant money for a used cue, without looking it up first.https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Book-Pool-Cues-3rd/dp/1886768528
This book has been out of print. The author also have a website, with the same information that you can subscribe.
You got surprisingly decent fundamentals for just 1 month, can already pocket long shots, and most common cuts. Well, except for that 11 ball, you murdered it set that up and do it a few times :)
At this point you should start on playing position. That's the secret to running out in pool. If you can set up the cue ball so that most of your shots are easy, you can run a whole rack.
There's a great book I always recommend that starts out on the most common position shots. New you should be paying around $10 and used you can get for even cheaper - https://www.amazon.com/99-Critical-Shots-Pool-Everything/dp/0812922417
You can also go through dr dave billiards on youtube, tons of great info there.
Looks like they no longer make em. I found it just digging through Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827WKNGQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There's a guy 3d printing taom chalk holders and selling them here on r/billiards through Etsy. Can't remember if it had a lid but he posted a couple of days ago, I'll go hunt for the post.
This book is a valuable resource on the game, and has a section dedicated to break shots.
Mike Sigel had a really good instructional video on straight pool, from like the early 90s I'd guess, but I am coming up dry trying to find it on YouTube.
The last couple pieces of taom V10 I've ordered off of amazon was through "Y2Play!". Direct link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K4HLPF2. The orders are fulfilled by Amazon and handled/shipped by them as well so if you have any issues you just deal with amazon customer support instead of a 3rd party.
All that being said, when/if I need more and pooldawg/seyberts/other reliable pool supply site has them, I'll likely order from them. I like to try and support the pool focused sites whenever possible before ordering from Amazon.
I have a lil guide I wrote for that exact question... I think it'll answer any questions and hopefully helps:
https://www.reddit.com/r/billiards/comments/7x1iub/guide_buying_your_first_cue_need_help/
Or tl;dr: IMO a good-quality cue = one with a good low deflection shaft, which means spending like ~$400. If you can't afford that, and don't think you'll ever spend that much, then get a starter cue. But save up maybe for $100 cue. I think below that number, the quality is kinda sus. It's ok to go cheap on the case. $15 is ok.
I have this one in my single-car garage and love it. It's on 24 hours a day. Maybe two down in your basement?
Just get her a child's cue like this, https://www.amazon.com/Players-Y-G02-Girls-Game-48-Inch/dp/B00F5YXGKC/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3KHGGQE2ESE6Q&keywords=girls%2Bpool%2Bcue&qid=1671217697&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=girls%2Bpool%2Bcue%2Csporting%2C88&sr=1-8&th=1&psc=1 since they just play for fun. You don't have to worry about the quality of the cue so much since she won't know much of a difference since she's asking for a skinnier cue.
would this be the same thing? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B084KLQZ16/?coliid=I3D0J13EPLKIAB&colid=12A5SMWLU6U3U&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Those tips aren't terrible for casual play. You can get a cheap tip shaper, or just use sandpaper to scuff them up and get a bit more curve. That will let them hold chalk better. Right now they're too flat and smooth.
https://www.amazon.com/Willard-Pool-Cue-Tip-Shaper/dp/B000WQYBKC
no problem ^^
So yes, get this tool - https://www.amazon.com/GSE-Games-Sports-Expert-Accessory/dp/B07PS1C1VZ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=H16LQK8QX7FP
Stab into the tip repeatedly, hold the cue so the butt is on the floor and just steadily rotate as you stab. Try to get all around the tip and even the edges, but not the actual side of the tip. And be careful, it's easy to stab and scratch your ferrule. Or even stab your thumb lol.
After doing the stabs, use the other side of the tool, the scuffer, and roughen it a lot, going back and forth from different angles. you want the top to show little hairs and fibers. Don't be afraid to really roughen it.
One of the best books to get started with is "The 99 Critical Shots in Pool", you can find it for around ten bucks or less. It's like a quickstart guide for pool. It takes you through all the really common shots that come up and how to play them and get position for future shots.
You can bring it to the pool room and set up the individual shots. Probably works best starting at the beginning, but you can skip around.
It doesn't focus much on how to stand, hold the cue, etc. which is all important stuff, so for advice on that you'd look at other books. Play Great Pool is like a dense college textbook on fundamentals. And it can help to have a good player just look at how you swing the cue to make sure you're not doing something counterproductive.
It can help to have some sort of plan. Drills gotta scale with your skill level. Most of them will be tough for a 3.
I usually recommend the 99 Critical Shots book if you can stand reading. It's not free but you can find it under ten bucks. They give you shots in a logical progression from easy to more advanced, e.g. you start out with a stop shot or forward roll and work your way up to draw and using sidespin.
If you're more of a video person, Dr. Dave has everything you need, but basically you have a choice between his youtube content (free, but not really organized)... or his pool courses (download/DVD)... not free, but organized carefully to take you from beginner to advanced.
This is my take on what you learn, in the right order. Find videos and drills that match up with these goals. https://www.reddit.com/r/billiards/comments/c0gh85/what_should_my_natural_progress_look_like/er5f8nb/
Actually, I got a 9' Diamond smart table (blue label) less than a year old with the Diamond light, Super Aramith Pro balls, and 6 Cuetec cues for $4k in January =)
I got really lucky though and caught a great deal!
Will post some pics of it after work (if I can figure out how to post pics in here)
Edited to add: Some pics http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=a57udh&s=8#.VVOzQkbCcak http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2nvgjgp&s=8#.VVOzSEbCcak
What is your budget range. Cuetecs that aren't Cynergy cues (and Avid I guess) aren't necessarily considered to be great. Mainly the SST Shafts. They'd work fine, but they're definitely not worth $200 for an SST.
Do they sell Players Cues in the UK? A players Sneaky Pete is a great starter cue, and honestly would be a fine forever cue too. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Players-Exotic-Design-Sneaky-Two-Piece/dp/B072C314KB
Found that on a quick google search. Also don't most new cues come with joint protectors? My mezz did and old cuetecs did. Asking seriously because until those were the only two cues I ever bought brand new lol.
Buy a Players brand cue on amazon. They are affordable, and high quality.
J&J Break Jump (about $120ish)
Players Break Jump (About $150ish)
These are two that are more than fine enough to play with. Depending on how serious you get with pool and if you start competing, then you may be better off paying up for a break cue. But honestly the two two listed will be more than enough.
Prices have went up (both those cues used to be around $80 earlier in the decade), but you can also try to get one of these generic Chinese cues on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CRICAL-ADAMII-Billiards-58-Billiard/dp/B09JLN51G1/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1DBMHSVIUBRK4&keywords=break%2Bcue&qid=1662347475&sprefix=break%2Bcue%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&th=1
I'm sure that'll be fine for what you need as well. You can also go a cheaper route of finding a secondhand cue on craigslist or so for dirt cheap and use that as a breaker.
I was looking at this one, available in 6 and 7ft: https://www.amazon.com/GoSports-Billiards-Table-Portable-Sticks/dp/B08MBHGNGM/. There are some good reviews on YouTube (but it's over your budget). Sometime you can find similar tables on Craigslist so you may want to keep an eye for it.
I ended up finding a used 6ft slate table.
Note that that while 6ft is great for practicing it does get very crowded if you try to play 8 balls.
You're not going to have many options at that price range unless you roll the dice on a chinese brand like this. You other option is hopefully finding something on the second hand market. Personally I have their carbon fiber cue and I love it, but I know carbon fiber won't warp. Typically lower price cues are made of cheaper material, and have the potential of warping easily.
You other option is to get a players cue or something of that nature from Seyberts, and have them take down the shaft for $35 extra, but the lowest they'll go is 12.5mm. LD shafts usually hit that range but they start over $200 alone. The plus side is you can always find one for almost any cue joint.
Yes, you need an oversized ball. Here is a link to the one I have:
Sterling Oversized Cue Ball https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WQ3AHM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Here is a link to the original patent:
http://www.billiardsforum.com/img/u/00005971/1598384780_us3115341.pdf
I am looking for internal pictures of the ball trap so I can try to manufacture one.
OK so they get yellow over time especially when exposed to light, it's a real Aramith cue ball then.
I would use if for a while and then buy a new one on Amazon, make sure its like this one, never hurts to have a spare!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GVH2VI?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Players-Exotic-Design-Sneaky-Two-Piece/dp/B072C314KB
This is all you need really. Just get a good tip>. This is what I'd recommend all as a "beginner cue" which really can be your only cue forever as well.
Depends how you practice and if you're getting good instruction. Just banging balls around or playing games by yourself is not that productive.
Most players can reach a level where they make 3-4 balls in a row without knowing much about position or learning english. They just need to hit a lot of balls over the course of a few years.
The same player that can run 5 balls (if they're laying right, with a little luck) after 2 years of solo practice... could have done it in 1 month with an instructor making sure they have good form, explaining cue ball control, and showing them the right position patterns.
Save hours of your life and get an instructor. Doesn't have to be a professional (though if you can afford one, great). A top league player in your area could help.
If you prefer learning on your own (or not spending money) check some good youtube videos or books. I love this book and it helped me quickly get past beginner status, just bringing it to the pool room and going through the shots alone.
I went through a few gloves before I found a 10 pack of gloves for $15 on amazon, and found each individual glove to last about the same amount of time, and they play well too.
They're $25 for 10 now, but that's still only $2.50/glove.
I bought a 10 pack of them 2 1/2 years ago, and I still have 3 unopened and I have 2 in my bag and one on sitting on my pool table. They are very surprisingly good gloves.
You play more than you break. Focus on getting a playing cue that hits a balance between your budget and features and use house cues to break.
If you care enough about pool as time goes on and you get better then invest in break cue. Super cheap ones on amazon start at around $70 and should service you well.
It's going to be hard to get anything for $250 as most good LD shafts start at around $300.
That being said my recommendation for you is a J Flowers/Konllen Cue. They're carbon fiber, you can usually find them around $300-350 range new. IMO they're worth saving up a little beyond your budget. They play just as nice as their more expensive peers, it's 12.5mm for the shaft with a long pro taper.
I can't speak to LD properties, some say they are, some say they aren't that LD, but regardless they still play very very well. I've tried/owned all sorts of cues over the years (low end to high priced customs), this plays as good as most of them.
The other reason this is a good starter cue is because it can technically be your only cue you'd need. Carbon fiber is low maintenance, you never have to worry about the shaft warping. When you buy cheaper pool cues, they are made with cheaper wood and shafts can be more likely to warp. Carbon fiber also is dent resistant (though you shouldn't knock it against everything) and stays clean.
I bought this for my table in my garage, and I love it. I consistently keeps the humidity at 40-50%. I only have to empty it maybe every 3-4 days:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNZFRC8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
You can learn with this app, kick shot image training (KSIT)...
Iphone https://apps.apple.com/us/app/kick-shot-image-training/id1119048505
Android https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=info.kazusoftware.kickshot&hl=en_US&gl=US
I stay away from using alcohol on the butt of the cue. I clean my shafts with 99% all the time.
I'm too afraid cleaning the butt with alcohol will have a cumulative effect, over time potentially wearing away or dulling the finish. I'd be concerned about the dye in the wrap, too.
Now that I think of it, I don't really do much to clean the butt of my playing cue all that often. I usually just wipe it down after a session with a rag or the inside of my overshirt.
A power bank is just a big portable battery with usb slots, so you can recharge your phone anywhere. Anker makes some good ones. Once the portable dies, it can be recharged.
This one's about the same size as the phone itself, but will recharge it 5 times before running out of juice. And it meets the PD standard so it recharges really fast. https://us.anker.com/collections/power-banks/products/a1287?variant=41110977642646
I'm not sure how cheap you're looking for. I'm a photogapher and most of us have gear-itis and gets more and more expensive stuff over time, and don't know much about the inexpensive stuff.
If I needed something like this, my strategy would be to go on amazon, sort by best-reviewed, make sure it was at least 1080p, make sure it takes SD cards (which can be found anywhere, and 128 GB is only $20). Ignore anything TOO cheap (you know a $30 camera is going to be a piece of shit), ignore anything with less than 4 stars, ignore anything with barely any reviews. So basically, something in the $100 range, with 4-5 stars, 1080p, and at least 50 reviews.
Doing that, I came up with this guy. Good reviews, one reviewer says the battery lasts forever and it comes with 2. Takes up to 128gb SD cards. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-YouTube-Camcorder-Vlogging-Batteries/dp/B09QPTM5PH/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1UMBGUEIMNSTX&keywords=video%2Bcamera&qid=1653791208&refinements=p_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A10705427011&rnid=10705423011&s=p...
The 99 Critical Shots is the single closest thing I know of to a quickstart guide for pool, and it's good for someone around APA 4/5 level. Bring the book to the pool room sometime when practicing alone, do one of the shots until you have the concept down, move on to the next. You can do them in order or skip around.
If you absorb the info in this book, your knowledge will be as good as (or better than) the average APA7. But of course you need to be able to execute the shots, not just know them :)
I found this when searching for good beginner cues. I've asked for it for my birthday in June, so I haven't played with it yet. But the reviews seem good. I'm really looking forward to it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5YGEZ6/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_sms\_api\_i\_T37T63Y3EA6X502QKZM6?psc=1
easily the best book on the mental game I've ever read
Mini Tabletop Pool Set- Billiards Game Includes Game Balls, Sticks, Chalk, Brush and Triangle-Portable and Fun for the Whole Family by Hey! Play!, green, 12.2x20.2x3.5, (15-3152) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YHF3HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VEN8465ZRB4AK6BGPA2F
This one is like the one we have.
Mini Tabletop Pool Set- Billiards Game Includes Game Balls, Sticks, Chalk, Brush and Triangle-Portable and Fun for the Whole Family by Hey! Play!, green, 12.2x20.2x3.5, (15-3152) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YHF3HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VEN8465ZRB4AK6BGPA2F
you can take a rubber sleeve wrap and cut it down to size—they just slip on (tiger makes one, tho I'm sure there are others)
could have a cuemaker put a real wrap on it
or you could use some of that wrap tape for golf clubs (or electrical tape lol)
This is a very nice cue that plays fantastic.
Ive sold about 30 of these cues....
https://www.amazon.com/25oz-Rage-Heavy-Hitter-Break/dp/B00EAIF6SY
They hit like a tank, weight bolt can be removed and depending on the tip, the jump cue is pretty damned good for such a cheap combo.
Im not kidding, I sold SO many of those out of my old bar that we had to use a black market and put everyones initials at the bottom of the butt just so people wouldnt take others cues home with them.
Of the 30 or so cues I sold, I didnt have a single one come back with any issues other than one or two with a loose weight bolt!
Cant go wrong for $122.00
I personally would not spend more and $150-$175 for a jump break cue. Most of them have either hard plastic or bake lite tips, which I recommend highly.
My break cue is similar to this Players Cue.
Good luck!
As long as the first ball legally hit is your set (stripe), you could pocket other balls to go along with it except 8-ball where if it is illegally pocketed you lose. For more about rules of play, this resource might help https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cwhapps.worldpoolmediatrainerasia
Push shots manipulate the ball movement, so they are a foul in all international rules. If anyone would like to know more about rules of play or tactical instructions, get a free copy of this resource to know more https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cwhapps.worldpoolmediatrainerasia
Look a bit congested on the table! But need great control not to hit the balls and stop the run. If you love drills, check out https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cwhapps.worldpoolmediatrainerasia on Android, offering different drills inspiration & patterns to adopt next sessions.
Don't know much about Instagram, but you can try out this Android app which provides you with ease of access to billiards rules of play and guided training resources https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cwhapps.worldpoolmediatrainerasia
Looks fine to play with for now, better than any house cue you’ll find in a bar. I’d definitely think about buying a shaper.
Willards Cue Tip Shaper Nickel Radius .415 inches Cue Tip Shaper Dime Radius .358 inches 2-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082S3ZN4D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZK9FNA97EE4YB03QXKA0
This is probably the best shaper imo for the money. Don’t fall in the trap of all the gimmicky shapers with burnishers, pricks, and stuff like that. You can burnish with the back of your leather belt, or a dollar bill, and use beeswax or a burnishing compound they make specifically for cues. Just make sure that if you decide to get a tip shaper and want to look around more for more options, only look at ones with carbide abrasive welded on. Sandpaper ones will wear out to quick.
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313..... ooops.
I'd recommend 17 to 18 grams, and the 11.75 mm tip
Link for convenience: https://www.amazon.com/Pathline-Pool-Cue-Kit-Canadian/dp/B0994QBQVL/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Pathline&qid=1647606560&sr=8-2
Although I wouldn't be surprised if this is one of those designs that get sold under different brands.
We have many here in America as well. magic rack
I just bought this book Through suggestions I receive here. I’m hoping it will help me in those exact same situations.
I just have trouble closing sets… even if I’m up 3-4 games I just have trouble with the hill game. I broke and ran 2 games to get of the hill in a gambling match the other day , then fell apart, the guy came back hill/hill and luckily he scratched on the 6ball and I ran out. But damn it really messes with my head to do that.
Phil Capelle has a good book on the mental game. Alison Fisher endorsed it so it's well recommended.
I've also heard of pool players reading sports psychology books for golfers, which makes sense because golf is somewhat similar game, but there's a lot more literature available on golf.
I've got a mini library of pool books with most of them listed here and this one is my favorite go to- it's got a bit of everything, I highly recommend this one The Science of Pocket Billiards https://www.amazon.com/dp/0962289027/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_DCJENZQG9W7WH9H7XCX7
Phil Capelle has a number of good books worth checking out, including this
Robert Byrne was a prolific author with at least a dozen or so books worth looking at. Usually a good mix of tips, unusual shots, pool anecdotes, etc.
If you have any interest in learning various bank shots this is a good resource. Lots of interesting anecdotes and hustler bios peppered throughout as well.
The holes in the butt are the marks made by the spur driver center on the lathe when they turned it. I suspect the center hole was then used to screw a bumper on. You should be able to buy a new bumper for a few bucks online. You want one in this style: bumper
As for the shaft you are better off buying a new shaft just take your butt to your local hardware store and figure out what thread it is then you can order a new shaft. For around a hundred bucks. I don't think you should waste your time with that shaft unless you own a lathe.
9 Inch Travel Mini Pool Table for Kids by Gamie with 2 Sticks, 16 Balls and Rack - Complete Small Pool Table Set for Children - Great Gift Idea for Boys and Girls, Unique Office Desk Decoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8WHGDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XZ5WEH69N8CRXGTEY6FT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This seems to be the one OP is using
Yes, there is a difference between breaking tips and shooting tips. Breaking tips are harder. Phenolic tips are the hardest, but are not always legal. Samsara makes a hybrid tip that is legal everywhere and works really well. https://www.seyberts.com/pool-cue-break-tips/samsara-true-break-jump-pool-cue-tip/ I have a Samsara on the 1984 Meucci that I break with and haven't had an issue.
Tips don't come off because of the tip. They come off due to bad installation or bad glue.
For the glue, Loctite Ultra Control Gel works great https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Control-4-Gram-Bottle-1739050/dp/B00ELV2D0Y
For the installation, whoever is doing it needs to scuff the bottom of the tip and cut small groves (more like scratches) lightly into the bottom of the tip to give the glue somewhere to grip.
You can just play, and hope to absorb the game. This will work but it will take forever. If you want to get good quickly, you need to understand the physics of the game, and you need to do some basic drills to learn how to apply those physics. And learn some strategies to run the table.
I spent a decade just playing, but I became twice the player I was after I read this book (non-ref link) and worked through its recommendations. You can get it for a few bucks used.
He has other books and videos too but this is the one you need to start with.
I can't find it in the play store but I have it installed on my phone. I've had it for years so not sure what's up. And I just got a new phone the other day and installed. Link: http://download.cnet.com/Pool-Bar-Online-Hustle/3000-20416_4-75296355.html
Off you go then. If you don't like this one, there are plenty of others. Just be patient and measure beforehand to make sure it'll fit your space. Remember to negotiate fairly (factoring in that you'll have to move the damned thing and almost certainly get new cloth, maybe new cushions), and use professional services for the leveling / refelting part of the job. You can save a bit of money buying used, dissembling / moving yourself (watch some videos, get friends to help), reassembling the table frame and lifting the slate into place. From there on out, you'll want a pro to do the recovering / leveling, but they'll charge you a lot less because they won't be moving the table / slate.
Meucci is a great brand I use one of the pro models. This as answered is a lower prices production model, could be worth $200-$400 but I could find that model online to verify. I'd recommend not cleaning the shaft, unless you ask the person buying it. They may know how to clean it themselves and prefer to so. Or they don't know or care and would be OK with you cleaning it. I've old used burnishers not chemical cleaners. Qwhiz is the best I've used. Q-Wiz Shaft Cleaner and Burnisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UCEADS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_J7GC5KEBXKJ6A6G1TBHQ
Collapsar Upgrade One-Stop Billiard Pool Cue Tip Shaper All in 1 Tip Repair Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794YBHZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EMB4K2B1CD6J3SSF9BSB
I started doing tip replacements with this, it works well but is expensive
Sure, but you need a head like this.
~~I dunno, are you looking at first editions maybe? Where are you looking? Used starts at about $5: http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?sts=t&tn=green+felt+jungle~~
Edit: wrong book, correct author is Huber
look on the butt for a brand name, then google that brand name or better yet ebay search it.
Usually any cue that's divided into more than 2 parts is a super cheap cue, like $20. Might be something similar to this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EastPoint-Sports-57-Four-Piece-Deluxe-Wood-Billiard-Cue/21693196
If you're willing to pay, you might try creativemarket or istockphoto
There's a lot of similar-looking junk out there but a few stand out. You might also gamble on getting something custom made on fiverr.com.