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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/buildapchelp:
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GParted
GPU-Z
Geek Uninstaller
Auslogics Disk Defrag
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See the SLOTS section. Both slots are x16. When both are in use, the top one is x16 and the bottom one is x4. If there is only one in use, it functions in x16 mode.
Also, using GPU-Z you can determine what the PCI-e is running at
That will work fine. And that's a great drive.
Another option, courtesy of /r/buildapcsales, is this drive currently on sale for $125 if you have Amazon Prime. It's slower than the Samsung, but that won't matter much for a game drive (the load time difference would be near imperceivable), but it would double the capacity.
Most motherboards have a PUMP header but yours doesn't.
If it was my build, I'd probably pick up one of these adapters and use molex from the psu to power the pump. You don't need PWM control of your pump because you always want it to be running at full speed.
If you can't spend anything else, you can try putting it on one of the SYS_FAN headers and then go into the bios and change the curve of that header so that it's always on max. The catch is, whenever your BIOS resets (such as after an update) you'll need to remember to make this change again.
Of course it's still possible that you got a defective unit. If you pick up one of those adapter cables and power just the pump by itself you should be able to hear it moving water through the unit.
Yes, unfortunately you have run into the confusing world of USB standards.
What you have is a USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Header on your motherboard. Your case has a connector for USB 3.1 Gen 2. The 4000D was released before USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 ever existed so you can't fault it for not coming with the right cable.
As far as I know the two ports are incompatible. The 3.2 Gen 2x2 is much faster though and if you have it you should use it. You can pick up a port for it here that will give you access in the rear. And then you can pick up one of these pcie adapters that you can connect the usb port on your case to so it doesn't go unused.
You'll end up spending an extra $50 to get them both working unfortunately.
This M.2 NVME drive is on sale right now for $108 and is a fantastic drive. I have several of them. SK Hynix actually makes their own flash memory so their house brand tends to be quite good.
XFX Speedster SWFT309 AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT CORE Gaming Graphics Card with 12GB GDDR6 HDMI 3xDP, AMD RDNA 2 RX-67XTYJFDV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YKCC8XD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5C4HM6QFEKPMW2XDKATA
This is the GPU I have - seems like 8x8 pins afaik?
I don't think your RAM is slowing you down as much as you think. Sure you could upgrade to 32GB or drop your CAS latency to 14 or 16, but you might at most get a few percent boost. Your money would be better spent on a newer GPU or CPU.
In terms of SSD, right now drives are the cheapest I've seen them in a while! But there is word that we are in store for price increases soon.
It looks like you have two NVME slots on that board, so grab a 1TB or 2TB NVME drive depending on your budget. PCIE Gen 3 is fine unless you're doing more than gaming (like production type workloads) then spring for Gen 4.
Only one of your M.2 slots supports gen 4, and your current Intel 660P is a Gen 3 drive so if you have it installed into the Gen 4 m.2 slot, move it to the other slot if you buy a gen 4 drive. If you get a gen 3 drive then it doesn't matter.
Looking at /r/buildapcsales, it seems the WD SN550 2TB is on sale for $169 at the moment. It's a decent enough drive, does NOT have dram cache but will use system memory for acceleration. It'll be okay but if you want something faster (keep in mind it won't be noticeably faster in things like loading games, but in file copies or video editing, etc), look at something like the WD SN850 or the Samsung 980 Pro. They will be about the same price as the SN550 but for half its capacity.
It might be worth spending $15 on an enclosure like this that'll let you connect your NVME drives externally to put them through disk tests on another system. They're handy to keep around too.
I would that it's likely a motherboard issue, that's far more likely than two bad NVME drives. Can't rule them out as the culprit either though.
VIOTEK GFV22CB Ultra-Compact 22-Inch 144Hz Gaming Monitor | 1080P Full-HD 5ms | G-Sync-Compatible FreeSync FPS/RTS | 2X HDMI 3.5mm DP | Zero-Tolerance Dead Pixel Policy (VESA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DNTXJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_02GG3PSSC2R25ZGJFZB5
Also what could be causing your slowness is that when copying the files over it basically scattered them all over the hard drive creating a lot of fragmentation. A reinstall would fix it and probably install the OS files to the optimal parts of the hard drive (closer to the center of the disk) or you could try using a disk defragger
Uninstall everything related to Nvidia / geforce and reinstall again
Use portable version of geek uninstaller because it deletes the residue files left behind as well https://geekuninstaller.com/download
No controller needed, unless you want to slow them down. Something like this will allow you to use any standard 12v barrel plug power brick or wall wart. Add a few molex splitters to allow you to run a silly amount of fans as long as the rated amperage of your power supply is decent. Assume worst case of about 0.5 amps per fan, so for 4 fans you'd want at least a 2 amp 12v supply.
Absolute best is the Asus PCE-ac88. That's overkill though, get a intel wifi card and an adapter so it can use a PCI slot. When you put it into the adapter, make sure you connect the tiny antenna connectors and that you have a good set of antennas. Something like this, https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1532689387&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=intel+wifi+9260&dpPl=1&dpID=51BF3bhIM7L&ref=plSrch
This is the only one I've ever used https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-RangeMax-Wireless-N-Adapter-WNDA3100/dp/B001498LIO The speeds were alright but sometimes it wasn't the most reliable connection, ie I would have to disconnect and rejoin the network. I would suggest shopping around for a newer one. One last piece of advice, don't get one of those nano ones barely bigger than the USB port, they have almost no antenna in them
if you are not overclocking then i dont think an after market cooler is necessary, i would def first try removing the thermal paste and re-applying. Maybe you put too much or too little - and make sure the heatsink is attached properly.
here is what you can use to remove the paste and re-apply