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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/gigabytegaming:
![[6.6Ft] USB4 Cable Compatible with Thunderbolt 4, Maxonar 40Gbps Cable with 100W Charging and 8K/5K@60Hz Compatible with Thunderbolt 4 Monitor, Docking Stations and More](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41VED33Tk4L._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/gigabytegaming:
FanControl by Rem0o
OpenRGB
HWiNFO (32/64)
Rufus
MSI Afterburner
GPU-Z
SpeedOf.Me
Driver Easy
FossHub
CNET Download.com
Joomag
Barrier
Resource Hacker
Files.fm
Snappy Driver Installer Origin
The most popular reviews in /r/gigabytegaming:
Hi I am looking into this for you. In the meantime would you mind trying to download Driver Booster by IOBIT? It has helped ease the process of updating drivers for me in the past and I hope it can help here. Here is a link http://download.cnet.com/Driver-Booster-2/3000-18513_4-75992725.html?part=dl-&subj=dl&tag=button
Let me know if this fixes the issues for you.
As u/BlueConfetti already pointed out there are two things you could do:
- try another USB stick (some Verbatim sticks seems to have issues with UEFI)
- download the ISO file directly from Microsoft and use "Rufus" to create the boot stick
5000G series APU? Have you updated the bios? This was a known issue that I thought was already resolved with a BIOS update.
If a bios update doesn't do the trick, then I'd recommend using FanControl instead of SIV, since you can base the curves off the Tctl/Tdie sensor instead of the board sensor value (which isn't correct on the APUs). That will at least give you functional userspace fan control.
There's no direct competition that will provide the exact same interface. As long as the AIO has standard PWM or DC control for the pump and fans (ie it's not USB controlled for the pump), you can run from the motherboard headers, set a base curve in the bios, and then use smart fan or alternative userspace fan software like the free and open source FanControl to control the pump and fan speeds.
RGB fusion is pretty awful. Why does it have to be so janky? Just create a simple, clean, lightweight app that lets me configure the LCD on my Aorus Master without piles of bloat. It's like these hardware companies hire the most kludgeworthy and hacky programmers to stitch together such poor software on purpose. A good developer could write something that uses half as much system resources with a clean and simple interface. Like, take a look at this fan control app. It's freakin' open source freeware and does a better job than all these bloaty garbage "gamer" apps. Ever think of paying this guy to adapt his tool for you, Gigabyte? It would probably cost you less in the long run and earn you accolades for finally being a hardware company that doesn't ship junkware with their great hardware. Not every person who buys motherboards and graphics cards is a 12-year-old. I don't want dragons, flames, or huge UIs that look like what I did in PhotoShop in 2003 or a Winamp skin. It's almost embarrassing to open these apps for the first time and see how low-effort and cheesy they are. C'mon.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00P5TSJK4/
Or if you want to mount the ports somewhere, there's also this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QQQ27MV/
There's also a version that just adds two plugs directly off the header, but with how fragile the header tends to be I don't recommend it, so I didn't post it.
It may have done damage to some of the capacitors along the line, or even oxidized the ground plane in the board, if it traveled along the ground plane. It would be impossible to say without physical access to the board, and possibly even destructive testing if it's not just a blown capacitor or such.
It definitely sounds like it's a hardware issue, though, and with lightning, I wouldn't be surprised if other more subtle problems manifest in the future, but your audio issue could be solved for $8 with a USB audio dongle. I've got a few of this exact dongle and they're quite handy. I generally use them on PCs that don't have front audio inputs or have a combo jack and I need a separate mic input, and they don't require any drivers. Just plug in and Windows will have it running in a few seconds, and it will be it's own entirely new audio interface with its own power supply and no crossover to the onboard audio, so it shouldn't share the symptoms.
I ran XMP when initially setting up the new components [CPU, mobo, RAM]. That was a quick run to get Windows up and running. XMP is only 3000MHz for the kit, well short of where these E-die kits are capable of with a little tuning, so I never had intentions of running them at XMP for long, which is why I went to OC.
If you don't want to mess with OC'ing the RAM, you should just buy 3600MHz rated RAM: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DGZJ9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kZ8HEb6AZMF9V
My WiFi card TP-Link AC1300 PCIe Wireless Wifi PCIe Card | 2.4G/5G Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter | Low Profile, Long Range, Heat Sink Technology | Supports Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP (Archer T6E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nH1jFbR22J5VR
So, by far, your easiest bet is going to be a DVI to HDMI adapter.
On that motherboard, that is a DVI-D port, which means that it does not carry an analog signal that could be adapted to a dsub connector, but that's fine.
It is a single link DVI-D port, which means that it can do 1920x1200 @60Hz, which, well, 1080p is 1920x1080, so a basic monitor will work, but don't expect something like a 1440p display to work on that port.
Still, something like https://smile.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics-Adapter-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8UQJY?th=1 should do the job well enough.
Phanteks uses 3 pin JST SM connectors which, in my opinion are superior to the standard RGB/ARGB connectors but there is no header in the motherboard for them. You simply need an adapter if you are not using a controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KL7LS8K
This adapter will allow you to plug your JST SM daisy chain into the motherboard and gives you a male 3 pin so you can use that header for more things, like your case lighting.
However if I recall correctly, one of the standard 3 pin connectors from the case actually controls the daisy chained fans if you want to use the motherboard instead of the built in controllers. The other I assume is for the light strip. This is assuming you're using like the P500A. I had one a couple years ago so my memory may be rusty.
Here is a, ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Extreme on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-Z790-Motherboard-2xThunderbolt/dp/B0BHXQH5PJ?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A4UCFL9LU89NR
it would be same problem. They screwed up our laptop needs at least 240 watt. Alienware m15r5 is same chassiss comes with 240 w brick, however it has a dell 7.5x5 connector. Prolly best thing to do just buy adapter for 15 dollars off ebay and buy a very good converter cable that can handle the charge prolly something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W59BMSD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I garantee all your problems will go away
I personally just use these generic Fenvi adapters. They make the adapter card, and it just has an Intel AX200 Wifi 6 card installed in it. I like these because they come with a nice panel antenna and are only about $33 (you need to apply the coupon on the page).
You can then just use the standard Intel Wifi and Bluetooth drivers for the AX200 from Intel's site, since the adapter is literally just changing the PCIe connector format and also providing the USB breakout connection for the Bluetooth, while the AX200 is doing all the work.
The cable that came with your ipad is just a charge cable. It doesn't transfer data.
You need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-USB-C-Laptop-Monitor-F2CU049bt2M-BLK/dp/B072L88ZFX which supports display and data.
Charge cables are cheap as compared to video one.
I personally use a USB-C to HDMI cable which is economical and supports HDR and 240 Hz refresh rate of my display.
A USB-C hub with HDMI port comes handy when ports of TV are recessed.
Ah i see. I appreciate the links. I was thinking of just unplugging the radiator fans and running 3 fans from another brand straight into a fan controller or motherboard. Sounds like your plan will work out nicely.
Is this the same fan connector? https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-4-Pin-Adapter-Sleeved-Graphics/dp/B07Q5BTTDX Sorry, I havent even opened my 4090 box up yet, still waiting on the rest of my parts to get here. If not, I'll just order from that uk ebay link since I have to wait anyways.
Quick update! I bought this PCIe ethernet adapter and it works! I now have 1gbps! Thanks again! It was literally plug and play.
>CF4010H12C
Google yielded these 40mm fans for me. The model number tells us they are 40x10mm so just get another fan that size with the same connector or splice wires. Thanks for checking so now I know what fan it is just in case my own quits.
https://www.amazon.com/ANVISION-Bearing-Brushless-Cooling-YDM4010B12/dp/B0711FVD48
That's a truly awful performing cooler, and is worse than even those junky slim 240mm AIOs that Silverstone makes.
Is RGB a must? You can get an absolutely amazing cooler that will fit in the case, and will be able to handle pretty much any OC you throw at it, for about $43. The Thermalright PA120 is a beast.
There is also an RGB variant, but it's $60, and Amazon only has the white version in stock at the moment. It performs just as well, though. The black one seems to be out of stock in the US (if you're even in the US), and currently only found on Aliexpress.
Ahh - I'm lucky if I get 30-45 mins a day with my work schedule - so guess that's all relative :) - but I'm sure even longer sessions would be fine.
If you live in a hot country, invest in a proper laptop cooler. I have the IETS GT500 for eg and it's is pretty good!
Also get an air blower to keep the dust off and you should be good to go.
You can use a HDMI Splitter... It will handshake with the splitter and send the 4K signal to the monitor.
This is the one I use: 4K@60Hz/1080p@120Hz HDMI 2.0 Splitter 1 in 4 Out, Auto Downscaler with HDR10 &3D, 18Gbps Zero Latency, AV Access Gaming Splitter, Duplicate/Mirror Screens, HDCP 2.2, for Xbox PS5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBBQF1B/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XYD38MNVFNQV22Y56190?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. I'm trying to use 3.5mm and tried this splitter: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FKB71SW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DCCZZW7ZDB36NJGRNTX4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It wouldn't split the audio, though. I did get 2-channel to work, but not 3.1. if you have any other suggestions, I'd be happy to take them!
The method I use involves a few more 3.5mm cables but works for my setup. I use this audio switcher: https://www.amazon.ca/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-MC104-Pro/dp/B07Q1W4484/ref=sr_1_49?crid=2NG82T4GARQWH&keywords=audio+2+in+1+out&qid=1653330647&sprefix=audio+2+in+1+out%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-49
If you're sticking to Amazon unfortunately this is one of the only audio 2 in 1 out switchers that I would recommend. The others are RCA
Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W 80+ Gold, ECO Fanless & Silent Mode, Full Modular Power Supply, Fluid Dynamic Bearing Fan,10 Year Warranty, SF-750F14HG (750W)
Your board can handle a total of 500 "Gen 2" led diodes. That's split across all 3 "Gen 2" headers. Each header can accommodate a total of 3 amps. Each one of your Riing Quad fans uses just under 1 amp. So you can only have 3 fans per header, but you're using the controller for those, so we don't have to worry about them.
The 1000mm strip is 2.1 amps. 500mm is 1.14 amps. 400mm is 0.84 amps each x3 for 2.52 total. You've got 5.76 amps of power draw from your Phanteks strips alone.
Those Phanteks strips cannot all be on the same header. They work with the Phanteks controller because it uses SATA to inject power. You can bypass the Phanteks controller, but you're going to want to split the strips between at least 2 headers, if not all 3 to be safe.
The way that I use my Phanteks Neon strips with Signal RGB is by controlling them with a Razer Chroma controller: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B08K3TYWP6 and using these Alphacool adapters to convert the 3 pol drgb to the standard 5v argb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RM41FQ2
SignalRGB will easily pickup the Razer Chroma, and from there you can add each strip to each channel to give you full control of them, safely, as the Chroma uses Molex to inject power (Molex delivers more power than SATA) and then uses USB 2.0 to interface with your motherboard like your ThermalTake controller.
The 5V rail on your power supply is more than adequate to run all of your fans and strips but unfortunately those headers can be a bottleneck and overloading them can end up causing lasting damage to the board.
EVGA also gives pad thickness, I have used the Gelid 12w or the blue 15w
Gelid Solutions GP-Extreme 12W-Thermal Pad 80x40x2.0mm. Excellent Heat Conduction, Ideal Gap Filler. Easy Installation. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BSPZTNV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8VSYF6G4PKJKQ3GMMWP7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And K5pro paste it's great stuff for the gpu die and a very thin coat on the pads will help thermal conducting
K5 PRO viscous thermal paste for thermal pad replacement 20g (Apple iMac, Sony PS4 & PS3, XBOX, Acer Aspire etc) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UTX7K2E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ARVASYCT6WM6GJTTC27B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can get a fan splitter cable. Ensure you research the comments for failure rates. I've seen 4-to-1 adapters but I did not research those
Noctua NA-SYC1 chromax.White, 4-Pin Y-Cables (White) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07655KMKV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QQGGRK3KPY0Q8RSE2JKQ?psc=1
never use motherboard sound or lan, get external ones through usb.
audio:
behringer um2 will do the job, also get an adapter for headphones since it's 6.25mm and you probably need 3.5mm, the speakers connect them to the input with aux to rca (red and white).
lan:
the best lan card on the market probably, those garbage lan cards on the market are non stable compared to quality stuff.
RTL8156 usb 3.2.
get those and use them for years, and never use motherboard chips again, whether it's a 600$ motherboard or 150$, the lan and audio chips are garbage.
yea i inspected the box content obviously because it's just closed with a duct tape and looks new inside.... but still i expect much better care for such item when i order it through gigabyte store on amazon
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08K13P8V7/ref=olp-opf-redir?aod=1&language=en&rnid=776942031&s=computers&keywords=gigabyte+am4&crid=30NXP4BA3B7MU&sprefix=gigabyte+am4%252Ccomputers%252C158&qid=1646655884&sr=1-30&refin...
I've had the antenna connected the whole time. I've found using Ikea's AA rechargeable LADDA cells gives me about two days of play. I bought two four-packs of them and rotate through then in sets of two (used a marker to note their pairs)
I use a better charger though, this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P52TMH
The ikea one is crap.
Buy a USB Xbox dongle. These controllers seem to absolutely hate the Intel AX200/AX210 BT radio. That was the only thing that solved it for me, across both the Gigabyte board and an Asus x570i as well.
This is the one I've been using for the last 18 months. I opted not to pay MS anymore money since they refuse to give a shit about the shoddy BT quality on these controllers and bought a cheap 3rd party dongle instead, and it has been absolutely flawless. And it's even cheaper now at $16 than when I bought it for $22.
Plus using the dongle instead of BT enables the use of the headphone jack in the controller, if that's something that interests you.
Exactly why I spent $15 on this. I love my build other than that issue and it was a real pain in the ass getting together. This is the card I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PSGQ4H7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I believe I'm using a Maxonar Thunderbolt 4 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZXH6RJ3/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and Baseus 100w charger (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092YFZD5P/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). One thing to note, Control Center charges battery to like 95% to maximize it's life. I think charging via TB will just charge it to 100%.
I believe I'm using a Maxonar Thunderbolt 4 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZXH6RJ3/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and Baseus 100w charger (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092YFZD5P/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). One thing to note, Control Center charges battery to like 95% to maximize it's life. I think charging via TB will just charge it to 100%.
Yes I did. This one is the exact one I am using. Fits perfectly. But it will take sometime to arrive. For me it took almost a month.
You can plug a piezo speaker into the space on the front panel header for it, which will give you the AMI beep codes if there are any errors. It's not as detailed as the debug display, but it will still tell you which step in the process things stall on if that were to happen.
This is in the US, but I'm assuming you're not, given my previous statement on availability of these boards, but it will show you what you need and you can find one locally if you want to grab one. They're cheap.
I kept those programs uninstalled even for normal use, SIV might seem useful but fancontrol is much lighter and does things more accurately when set up properly. Moreover rgbfusion is full of bloatware as it installs and keeps running all drivers for every compatible component of other brands (eg. even if you don't have RGB ram, it installs the drivers and keeps a running app polling for one)
Hello guys I fund a solution already ordered the part
have fun :)
Thx! For the M32U i use no Mounting just like the MSI screen. The AOC screens have no VESA Mount so i use some from Amazon with 4 Holding Arms.
Something like that but idk wich one + Normal 15€ Wallmount without much options xD
The three pin ARGB headers can only be plugged in one way, so you don't need to worry about those. For reference here's what the three pin connectors look like: https://www.amazon.ca/MICRO-CONNECTORS-3-Pin-Addressable-Splitter/dp/B07Z122WPT
And the 4-pin RGB headers: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812229001
They're more or less identical except for the missing pin. The headers look more or less the same but the ARGB headers will have an empty space betwen the third and fourth pins.
If you plug RGB headers in the wrong way, you can always pull them out and flip them around, it won't damage them, they'll just be the wrong color as you say.
LICHIFIT 5V 3PIN RGB VDG Conversion Line Cable Connector for GIGABYTE Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082MHMP79/
That board uses gigabyte's proprietary 3-pin pinout which was made before ARGB was standardized to 4 pins with one blocked out for keying.
So you need an adapter cable to connect to the older header style, which I've linked above.
u don't install them since it's in the bios, just head to bios and go to hardware monitor is what's it's called iirc, and for msi afterburner go here: https://www.msi.com/page/afterburner
Hi maS,
Have you checked out our z270 overclocking guide?
I wrote it in coordination with one of our resident overclockers (literally a professional overclocker) :)
To lower voltage you'll have to do a manual overclock. Our presets have voltages on the high side because they are ensured to work on essentially ALL cpus, even the <10 percentile in overclockability.
If you want userspace fan control, my recommendation is FanControl. Free, open source, and way more configurable than SIV.
Make sure to set a baseline in the BIOS, since that will be used during boot and before logging into the OS.
Indeed! My favorite is the free and open source FanControl. It is extremely customizable and supports most major sensors including the CPU telemetry and most GPUs, plus in many cases storage and chipset temps as well.
I have no idea if it will support the SuperIO chip used in these laptops, but you could always try using the free (and amazing on desktop) app FanControl. I can't guarantee it will work, but it is worth a shot. It's super powerful on desktop and can control system and Nvidia fans, but I'm not sure about with the laptop. I'm not a laptop builder and rarely service them anymore so I'm not sure if it will have all the sensors or even be able to control the fans. You'd have to try it. But if it works, that would be a great way to manage fan curves without using the malignant tumor that is Control Center (Centre).
I prefer to set the baseline in the bios for all the fans, then use FanControl within Windows to run the actual fans to my liking. It's far more granular than SIV, has zero resource overhead, and is free and open source. Plus it will often give you full control over fans that may have locked profiles in the bios like the PCH fan. And it isn't an unreliable mess like SIV.
The reason I say to set the baseline in the bios is that the program doesn't run until user login, so you'll still want a baseline fan configuration set so that they'll kinda run somewhere near what you want from boot up, but then using FanControl, you can make all the fine adjustments with far more control than SIV ever offered.
For fan control, I prefer to use FanControl, which is free and open source. It's amazing and has so many more control options than you'll find in SIV, and it can even control most Nvidia GPUs as well, if you want to include your GPU fan control in the same program. It has mix sensors where you can use two or more sources, averages, and more. It's simply amazing. And it's so light weight.
And to echo the standard sentiment, SIV is garbage. It's way too resource heavy for what it does, and it causes more problems than just setting the fans in the bios or using a 3rd party fan control.
I still recommend setting a baseline profile in the bios for all your fans, since the app doesn't run until you actually log in, so it will be using the bios fan curves until you log in, but once logged in, the app is simply the best modern fan control around.
So as far as fusion goes....yea, it's ass. It has horrible reliability and is seriously lacking in options. Gigabyte knows this and either doesn't care to fix it, or doesn't know how to proceed to correct it.
openRGB is an alternative that does work for a lot of components. I used it with acceptable results on my x570 xtreme mobo.
It may be worth looking into, depending on how much effort you feel like putting into your rgb. A bit of reading and messing around got things smoothed for me mostly.
Maybe try OpenRGB? The new version shows my Gigabyte 3070 now and I can control its led, so it may work for your card as well.
Also another tip is that if you still don't see it in either program, try putting the PC to sleep and waking it back up, then loading the program again. Sometimes this will bring the controller back to life when it gets "stuck" so to speak (not just for the GPU, it applies to RGB in general).
I have the 15X with the 8750H and 1070 max-q, and earlier this summer my laptop started overheating and dying (not even a bluescreen). I repasted with liquid metal, and I'd still occasionally crash.
What really fixed it?
A laptop cooling pad.
Prop the fans in the pad directly over the intake for the cooling system on the laptop, and that bad boy rarely gets to 85°C now.
Repasting might still be a good idea with normal paste, but I highly suggest trying that and a cooling pad before going liquid metal. Good conductance doesn't mean much if the fans are underpowered.
I've not found a way to undervolt the GPU, but I've found lowering the CPU max power draw by 10-15 watts helped me loads. (Also I'm running a -140mV undervolt). The only overheating issues I've ever had were with CPU anyways, the GPU usually was around 75°C at max load. I reccomend Open Hardware Monitor for monitoring temps on another screen if you have an external monitor.
And if your issue is with this game only (I've never played COD Warzone myself), and literally every other game works perfectly, it might be either COD's fault or an issue with the driver, in which case you might want to look online for similar issues on your card, or contact Nvidia.
TLDR: 1. Try lowering max wattage by 10-15 watts 2. Look online for similar issues 3. Laptop cooling pad 4. Repaste 5. Liquid metal ...in that order
That's exactly what I've done. When I opened that ddl file I found all the png images of the pop-ups and then I simply swapped them with black png image of the same dimensions (probabily work fine with other dimensions too, but I don't know it for sure). If you find trouble with ddl file I can suggest you using this easy tool http://www.angusj.com/resourcehacker/ that I found very intuitive for this work. Then, for create blank png image I simply go here https://www141.lunapic.com/editor/?action=blank&bgcolor=transparent&x=800&y=600 select the resolution and download it. I hope to be helpful ;)
>65W, outputs 3.42A at 19V.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K78ZRLH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A325PGRJFBVU9I&psc=1
this seems right
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJBVLG3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
this is the one I ordered and I'm thinking I can just get another dc tip that would fit for it to plug into or order the new one I linked to.
I have the same problem. I have a Gigabyte z590 mobo with a i255v ethernet controller and felt like I've tried everything to troubleshoot (updating/uninstalling drivers, checking hardware/cables/modem, Win10 updates, etc.). It just shows "network cable unplugged" under ethernet in network connections (regardless of updates), and the port LEDs on the RJ45 don't turn on while my functional ethernet cord is plugged in. All I could find online is how much trouble the i255v controller has been for z490 motherboards. Not sure what else to try...
NOTE: It's not a fix, but if you're looking for ethernet that just works (and have >3.0 USB ports), a USB Ethernet Adapter is always an option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087QFQW6F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I'm using this one atm until I find a fix. This nets me 900+ Mbps DL | 860+ Mbps UL
I'm currently battling a similar problem with my Corsair liquid cooler. This video helped a bit: https://youtu.be/BbGomv195sk
Also, I discovered Noctua fans. I replace all my Corsair and NZXT fans and that helped a lot. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B9QGB5W1WM2NMRCFQYE6
The GTX 770 may need the Displayport firmware update to be able to use DP in the BIOS. However the 770 isn't one of the listed models, so you'll just have to try it and see. It may not support legacy boot at all, so this may not help and you may have to use HDMI anytime you need to access the BIOS with that GPU.
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/drivers/nv-uefi-update-x64/
F11 was pretty unstable, especially if it's a Zen3 CPU, so I'd recommend updating to F13. F14c is a beta (anything with a letter at the end is beta) and may or may not bring other bugs with it. You could try F14c, but you may have to flash back to F13 if you have any issues with the build. It very well could fix the USB issue, but if it's just one port, and the pins are fine, it's more than likely a defect in the USB IO board in the case, with a slim chance there's a problem with one of the 2 channels in the header on the board, but this is far less likely than a bad IO board on the case. The only way to know for sure would be to plug in another header to test. You can get a header that turns directly into 2 USB ports for $9 off Amazon. This would tell you if it's the case or the board for fairly cheap. If both ports still don't work with the adapter, then you know it's the board. But if they do work, then you know it's the case's USB IO board, and you can contact the case manufacturer for a replacement.
Sounds like a bad nvme drive to me. I have a similar motherboard (X570 Aorus Master) with a 2TB Sabrent Rocket in the 1st NVME slot as a boot drive and a 256GB one in the second slot as a game drive (not sure the brand, I took it from an upgraded laptop). They both work for me.
Maybe try putting the 2TB nvme in a drive enclosure to see if it is even visible once you have booted...
Thermalright Thermal Pad 12.8 W/mK, 85x45x3mm, Non Conductive Heat Resistance, Extreme Odyssey Silicone Thermal Pads for PC Laptop Heatsink/GPU/CPU/LED Cooler (3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNDWZL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0JRYP27J5F0DS44D23Z9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And the 1.5
Binger GAG-J40 Replacement Laptop Battery Compatible with Gigabyte Aero 14 V7 K7 14-P64WV6 14-W-CF2 15 15X V8 15W 15-x9 Aorus X5 V6 V7 V8 X7 Dt V6 V7 V8 X9 Dt Series 541387460002 9NJM1(94.24Wh 15.2V) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DM3V1L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R669X46XYG1F2DXZ6C5A
I wish I had one of those boards on hand to check. But I build mostly small form factor, so I don't have any gigabyte atx boards on hand to look at to verify what might work, only ITX and they don't use the same style screw.
I know that the M.2 is usually secured to its own screw at 2280, then the thermal guard goes over and secures in the 22110 postion, but I can't guarantee you'll be able to find the custom ones for the thermal guards aftermarket. You can secure the SSD without the thermal guard just with a kit like this, but I can't say for sure about securing the thermal guard.
Thanks man! I'm also trying to learn something new here as opposed to selling it...maybe that'll change as I dive deeper into this hole! Any thoughts about this one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HSQV5NZ/ref=sspa\_dk\_detail\_1?psc=1&pd\_rd\_i=B08HSQV5NZ&pd\_rd\_w=AdjYx&pf\_rd\_p=91afecf5-8b2e-41e2-9f11-dc6992c6eaa1&pd\_rd\_wg=8gzYJ&pf\_rd\_r=24TQYB6DVGBEB0M11W2K&pd\_rd\_r=1b60e633-b664-...
4 pin PWM and connect it directly to the motherboard's slot fan.
You can also buy something like this:
with this cable you can connect fans directly to the GPU.
First of all my configuration was GPU AiO on front, and CPU AiO on TOP. With push/pull configuration of GPU radiator.
However in this configuration my CPU was really hot. Now i have GPU AiO on TOP and CPU AiO on front. My GPU temp increased a little bit, but in near future i would like to put two extra fans on my radiator.
However with Arctic P12 GPU max temps are 53*C in 4K. In my opinion this gpu has low power limit, so two extra fans are worthless.
edit: be carefull with disconnecting original fans. Do it slowly, with patient :)
I know this is an old post, but this came up with a different motherboard elsewhere. They mean post code sound through the speaker connected to the speaker connection in the front panel headers. Old PC cases used to come with these standard, but haven't in a long time. You'd pretty much need to get one of these in order to be able to troubleshoot with POST code beeps and and use this FAQ as a reference.
I'm using this one, for a couple of months now, and it's simple and does the job. I pushed it close to the motherboard tray so it's pretty much invisible and completely eliminates the sag on my 3090 Master.
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Bracket-Holder-Holster/dp/B08P989QF1
It is not showing up in the device manager.
Used this one but I think it was faulty. I have aorus elite wifi x570 mobo with 2 m.2 slots I had 2 500gb and just bought a 1tb so I just wanted to use the 3rd one instead of selling it.
I bought this of Amazon for the same GPU
Works perfectly and doesn't take much room at all, just set it up at the end of the GPU, and be at the back of it if you have room
Hmm could i ask your opinion on the item the other poster posted compared to yours. Just judging by looks since you obviously have not tried that one i think lol https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Graphics-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B089NRZKW5
I use this one with my 3090 Master. Works perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Bracket-Holder-Holster/dp/B08P989QF1
I bought this for my Asrock Taichi 6800xt. Works a treat it's adjustable so it will fit any card.
I bought one of those "up here" brackets that screw into the PICe screws at the back and it was pretty useless compared to this bracket
Update, my Apple cables only gave keyboard and mouse when using the KVM
I have a suspicion that I need a better USB c thunderbolt 3 cable like this Anker one here
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Thunderbolt-Supports-Charging-Transfer/dp/B08D9J8HM3?ref_=ast_sto_dp
The thermal pads that they used are known to cause overheat, especially on the 30 series cards, you could try to just buy new and good thermal pads, usually, aftermarket ones drop up to 20 ºc https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CGR62QX/ those are really good ones, but you have to check what thickness your 3090 requires. In my AORUS 2070, the VRAM is 0.5mm and the VRM is 1.0mm if I recall correctly.
Also, if you want to put a water block as long you don't damage anything in the process, your warranty will still be valid.
Just search Wifi Antenna on any shopping platform and you should be able to find it. The connect is RP-SMA type.
some examples, https://www.amazon.com/Bingfu-Rosewill-Gigabyte-Wireless-Security/dp/B082SHKT3Q/
For the 3080 Master you can go this route:
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Bracket-Holder-Holster/dp/B08P989QF1/
That is what I have in my system to support my 3090 Master. I installed it as far as I could, close to the motherboard. It's barely visible. I searched and found no confirmed horizontal support bracket that would fit with our cards unfortunately. So I went this route and it's doing it for me.
I mean, I don't have a specific brand but I'd guess anything works. A quick google I found this and it looks like it does the job just fine.
I'm not sure it's just the lack of them on the back side; some people have seen improvements from that, but I just added this pad behind all the VRAM chips (Eagle Gaming though, not aorus), and the difference has been negligible unfortunately. Pretty disappointed, guess I'll need to order some 2mm ones and replace the ones on the front. I'm getting 98-100C at memory junction at 70% power, 95% fans, -500 core, -210 memory, getting 85 MH/s.
In general...?
It's a brilliant laptop - very powerful and pretty quick, and the cooling system seems to work very well. Much better than my old ASUS GX701GWR.
I've got a set of this RAM coming today: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08K9BMWDD?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
Looks like it works at 3200 at 1.2v, which the previous RAM (Crucial Ballistix) didn't.
I'm getting 3D Mark scores of 10,537 on TimeSpy, compared to 8,704 on the ASUS GX701GWR.
Did you find a solution to this? I'm in the same exact situation with that GPU and heard that it causes sagging. I found a bracket that has a PCI extender: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-VGPUKT_02-Universal-Vertical-Pci/dp/B07MW73HTJ/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=GPU+BRACKET+FRACTAL+R5&qid=1613104277&s=electronics&sr=1-18
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wondering if it might work? The only answer I found was for the stock Gigabyte 3080 and not this version. Another person said that this specific bracket was not long enough and it can get in the way of slots.
​
Anyone know what the best bracket might be for this monster of a GPU in a Fractal R5 Case?
This one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084S7X2W8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aiB-FbDBZQNDB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are lots of other variations but I do like this one. I had to assemble it a little different because the card is so big but it works.
Do you mean the M2 heatsink? Distinguishing here between a 3.5 format SSD and the M2.
If so it's just a small crosshead. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Herco-HE826-Precision-Screwdriver-Set/dp/B000CCUFT2/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=small+screwdriver+for+electronics&qid=1609021247&sr=8-11
Ref: PC self-builder for 3 decades. Own an Aurous z390 Pro Wifi board. In the middle of showing teen son how to build his own PC using a second z390 Aurous Pro Wifi.
Which kinda did you try? Thinking of maybe something like this, but not sure if it will work. upHere Graphics Card GPU Brace Support Video Card Sag Holder/Holster Bracket, Anodized Aerospace Aluminum, Single or Dual Slot Cards Black (G205) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HSVSLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_s8rWFb1Z7Z75B
Is this specific to your mobo? is that switch on this one too? https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-X570-AORUS-DisplayPort-Motherboard/dp/B07T9PC9ZZ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=aorus+x570+i&qid=1605646777&s=books&sr=1-1
Yeah, the PSU, I have had for a very long time. I know it isn't a great brand but it works like a boss and I don't feel compelled to replace it without a reason. It is a fair point.
Your second point about the case and top being a window is fair too . I am going to get 2 fans for the bottom to pull air in. Do you think I should turn around the fan on the back too? I really didn't want to turn the front fans but the card is such a thicc chonky boi that I had to move the whole radiator from the back to the right like you see in the pictures.
Also of note my previous GPU was also an Aorus 2080 Super that was Vertical mounted so you didn't see the cables as much before. I am tempted to leave the glass off and just let it breath but it looks so nice with the glass on.
Lastly, I have this rechargable air blower to keep the case cleaned out. I use it on my computer and both my daughters every 6 months or so. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4QJ78C It works like a champ and is rechargeable to not be tossing cans out all the time.
Being serious about the aesthetics in the case is new for me. Thanks for the feedback.
I have no issues paying for the right thing for the case. I'm not going to go crazy but a few bucks here and there is definitely something that I am wiling to do. I just need to do some research on this.
For the sag issue, it's already sagging a little bit and someone in the Aorus Discord pointed me to this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084S7X2W8) earlier today. I ordered it and it will arrive tomorrow, which will add a little more nice RGB to the case.
Thanks to your comments and the ones above, I've taken a look at this with fresh eyes and there is a LOT which I can do very easily. I will take it apart and make it much nicer tomorrow morning, which I'm excited to do.
This is my first quality build where I am able and willing to do this extra work. I'm eager to learn and give it a little more TLC. My daughter asked me to do a similar thing for her tower as she has a simple case with a small window with some red LED's but I might get fancy with her now that she's getting my Aorus 2080 Super.
I'm listening and open minded. I legit don't know what to do with the water cooler radiator for the CPU. Do I flip the fans on it? If you have a link for reference on a suggested, it would be awesome. I'm not married to this configuration as it was a last minute change because the card was too big to mount normally with the radiator where it was previously.
Good to know on the PSU. I will replace it when the need arises but I've spent so much money on all the other things, I'm going to sit on this for a little bit. Do you have one that you'd recommend for this case and configuration? I'd maybe Wishlist the right thing on Amazon for my wife to get me for Christmas maybe. Thanks again.
Edit: Found this PSU, put it on my wish list for Christmas. If it's not a good one, please let me know. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQU6CWU
After researching I was hoping I could use a cable like this: Amazon USB-C to DVI
I just want to run 3 monitors off of the Mobo till I can get a nice video card.
I don't think you can remove the built in one, if your motherboard box doesn't have the little screw you can buy one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Michaelia-Standoff-Drives-motherboard-screwdriver/dp/B07D6G9XXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=M.2+screw&qid=1575029399&sr=8-4
I went with screw-on antennas on the same board.
Any antennas with an RP-SMA male fitting will work. Just make sure it's rated for both 2.4 and 5.0 Ghz.
Something like this:https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TQ4Y47D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not stupid at all. You can get a PCIe wifi card, it should fit right in to your PCIe x 1 slot. Here is an example, TP-link Wifi 6 PCIe card
Since day 1, mine has always thrown that windows error about the device not responding/malfunctioning, yet somehow the fan RGB and screen still work properly.
However, I’m not using an internal usb 2.0 header (I ran out) and instead, I got a usb 2.0 header > external usb 2.0 adapter and routed it to a spare port on the back of my PC. I used this adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q4QZW57/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_XUiGFbJ1FGM6V
Might be worth a shot before pulling apart your system and doing a return.
I use this DAC with my MSI UNIFY, FiiO Olympus2 E10K
I just built on this mobo using 2x16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3000. This RAM uses Micron E-die, in my experience it's very overclockable, second only to Samsung B-die (I've never had those, but they are quite touted in the community. I Ignored XMP and overclocked using DRAM Calculator to 3600 CL16 at 1.35V. It's really quite simple to adjust the timings, the calculator lists exactly what values to input in the BIOS.
While I'm not sure what performance loss you get from running single channel, my thought is that it'd be noticeable, and the drop from 3600 to 3000 may not be unless you're gaming. However
If i understand your problem right, I think you're gonna need something like this since the connector that your mobo uses is the old gigabyte 3pin argb layout.
All laptops are different but to truly find out you would need to take it apart (assuming you're comfortable with that?). Theoretically so long as the key-type is correct most miniWIFI type cards should work as its on the PCIe lanes. I've never personally witnessed a card go bad, are you certain the wifi card on your laptop is the culprit?
If it was me I'd get a slim USB dongle as a base test, its also handy to have one of these around too TP-Link AC600 (plug-play) Dongle
If you are certain your laptops wifi is at fault and you can confirm the card type, I think this would be a like for like replacement, Intel 7260.HMW Duel Band Bluetooth half miniWIFI adapter you would need to compare the connection type and size though.
I got this splitter from Amazon since I had more components to connect, it has worked great so far. Mine are still running off the MB but I just left it at the default red colour, because RGB Fusion won't work. But you could definitely run them off another controller, it just needs to support 5V RGB (the 3-pin connector)
Ese es el menor de los problemas que vas a tener con ese teclado.
Si buscas en Reddit vas a encontrar a varias personas (Me incluyo en esa lista) a los que el teclado misteriosamente y de repente dejo de funcionar.
Hoy escribí a soporte tecnico y tengo que esperar como 6 o 7 dias habiles a que me respondan.
Si estas a tiempo, creo que lo mejor que puedes hacer es regresar lo y comprar uno nuevo de otro fabricante, si lo quieres optico puedes buscar alguno de la serie B900 de "Bloody", yo recien compré ayer el Bloody B930 TKL de Switches Brown que equivalen a Switches red en Cherry MX
https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Bloody-Light-Strike-Libra-retroiluminaci%C3%B3n/dp/B079HR2GMX/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=18KNYAFOO12FP&dchild=1&keywords=bloody%2Bb930&qid=1586570070&s=electronics&sprefix=bloody%2Bb930%2Celectronics%2C401&sr=1-1&th=1
En Amazon lo compre en $62.99
Esa marca tambien tiene teclados completos (Full Size), e inclusive tiene teclados con la seccion numerica al lado izquierdo
Tal vez esa marca no te suene conocida, pero ellos fueron los primeros en el mundo en implementar tecnologia optica en los Switches