What are
/r/lawncare's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/lawncare:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/lawncare:
Weather Underground
The Weather Channel
Slickdeals
Nextdoor
ConsumerReports.org
ImgBB
AccuWeather
Qwant
Barnes & Noble
Dark Sky
Weatherspark
Airtable
Jet.com
SlideShare
Microsoft Bing
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/lawncare:
My Lawn from Scotts
PlantNet Plant Identification
MyRadar Weather Radar
Merlin Bird ID by Cornell Lab of Ornithology
The most popular reviews in /r/lawncare:
This is about the same except it goes into the ground. I think it’s better. I have this and 2 in ground rain bird impact sprinklers. Not as convenient as an irrigation system but they work great. Same idea as what you did I think.
I applaud your use of PPE. Keep in mind, the N95 won’t stop you from breathing chemical vapor such as the liquid sprays. For that, you will need an organic vapor cartridge.
Scotts DiseaseEx Lawn Fungicide
Greenworks 10 Amp 14-Inch Corded Dethatcher, 27022
Linked for everyones convenience
For the fleas I would suggest something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adams-Plus-Yard-Spray-32/dp/B001OVGIUU/ref=lp_6383093011_1_4
For the grass question I can't tell what kind of grass that is though I can see some stolons (above ground runners) so it seem likely that it would eventually fill out. I don't think it will be in 3-4 weeks unless you work on irrigation and slap some nutrients down.
You're not wrong to be delicate here, you live next to the guy, you cant just make an enemy out of a single conversation.
My neighbor doesn't like people parking on his grass (theres no curb) so he put these up.
Stick those in the ground to mark your property line until winter. Maybe make it a windmill so he thinks its just a decoration.
This. For 2k sq ft (which is what I have in my backyard) it will take you about 2-3 hours total of work. Really not that bad at all. Drink a beer and listen to music, podcast, sports, etc. Just water a good amount morning of or day before, it will make it SO much easier.
Alternatively, you can have local landscaping company do it. Prices vary, but typically ~$70-110 USD seems like the average.
I’ve been very happy with my reel mower. My lawn is uneven and has a hill, but it still works better than expected. It’s not good when you let your yard knee high, but otherwise is worth avoiding the motor maintenance and a gas can.
Scotts Outdoor Power Tools 2000-20 Classic Push Reel Lawn Mower, 20-Inch, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RA3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3K0YDbBEDDPXZ
AMES 2915300 Double Blade Weed Grass Cutter with Hardwood Handle, 30 Inch, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KWLGLOG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_40Z2AFF6DMYJGV9KSS3M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I get it, you should see the looks I get knocking down the overgrown brush and weeds with one of these a s the trusty ol Fiskars clearing machete on my hip.
If you hate line like me, get blades like these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SKC2VF6
Getting in bulk makes me not worry so much when I break one. These are for a stihl, bought my stihl for $20 at a yard sale a few years ago & running strong.
Triclopyr
Hi-Yield 35261 Triclopyr Ester (8 oz.) Weed Killer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R17ZDPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2CBXR7BNEMZBRC88W5ZH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m in the same boat. I got wild violets, creeping Charlie, and plantains coming out my ears so I’ll be hitting my yard with a few doses of this.
Tenacity's main claim to fame is that you can put it down while also seeding. If you're just looking to kill weeds, there are better, cheaper options, like 2.4-D weed killer.
Tenacity is perfect if you're nuking a lawn/overseeding. After putting the seed down, you add tenacity (in two week intervals) to keep the weeds at bay while your grass grows.
Used one of these this past summer to train the neighbors cat to move along.
Orbit 62100 Yard Enforcer Motion-Activated Sprinkler with Day & Night Detection Modes,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009F1R0GC
Not enough water. I can say i water 7 days a week, but if im turning my sprinklers on for 10 minutes each time it doesn't mean anything. What matters is the VOLUME of water your putting down. You need 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation. How are you watering and for how long?
For example my spray nozzles put out .3inch/hr , which means i need to run each zone for 3-4ish hours per week.
The only way to really know is to either use tuna cans, or buy something like this, put them out across your yard and run it for 20 minutes, then multiply it by 3 and see how far you are from 1".
If you do this im willing to bet your severely under watering. Most people underestimate how much water 1" really is.
Also once you find this magical time to get 1" per week, put it down in 1 watering a week, max 2. The reason your supposed to do this is long deep watering trains your grass to grow roots down deeper towards the water. This makes it way more drought tolerant because it takes a long time for the soil 5-6 inches deep to dry out. On the opposite end if your watering 3x+ times a week and only getting the top few inches wet, that's where your roots will stay. Then the sun beats down on it and dries it all out and your grass dies.
I picked up this one after seeing it in a LCN video. Great impact sprinkler that's easy to customize for oddly-shaped yards.
Caltrops won't keep anyone off your lawn, unless you warn every single person that they are there. In my state at least, you'd also be liable for any damages or injuries from them - in addition to possible criminal charges. You'd think your yard, your stuff, but doesn't work that way most places.
You can also line an area with solar lights. They are at least visible 24 hours a day. Something like these or whatever style fits.
How to level a lawn:
Rule 0 is to know your method.
You can Damn the Torpedoes and level it without regard to the existing grass. In some spots you may create 100% dirt patches. If you are fine with this, go on with your bad self.
You can half step it. You find the big dips. Fill to 50% of the grass height. Wait a month. Fill to 50% of the grass height. Repeat. Within a year or so, being patient, you can level the yard.
Now what do we mean by level?
Do you want it golf course level? That will require sand and lots of it and manual raking with a lawn leveling rake or DIY clone. Many start with dirt to set it at course level, then fine level with sand.
Do you want it levelish to a degree where you won't spill beer from your lawnmower's cup holder? That's what most of us shoot for. You can just do it with plain old dirt, the back of a garden rake and using one of the top two methods.
Media: Plain old dirt is fine. Its preferred by most for bigger yard issues. Sand is where its at for fine issues and golf course type leveling.
It just called Potash, it isn’t a full commercial “fertilizer” per se.
Easy Peasy Plants All-Natural Muriate of Potash Granules - Potassium Fertilizer for Gardens, Lawns, and Trees (5lb Bag)"Packaging May Vary" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GMQ29G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7K8E6A7AZWDV3HJXD2XA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This looks like a mole hole/mound to me. I know because I am fighting the good fight against them myself. I have tried putting down poison grubs from Amazon into the holes, but I am seeing a new mound/hole every few days. Safe to say, the grubs did not work after using a pack of 8. I am now going to try applying a granular repellent.
Godspeed friend, and welcome to the good fight.
I have an ego 21” mower and really like it. For a lawn that small though, I’d consider a manual reel mower. Greenworks 16-Inch Reel Lawn Mower with Grass Catcher 25052 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZVOLY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HP08DFWSB54508QCBMV1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sedgehammer is the way to go. You can get a 2-pack on Amazon for $17.50 and I recommend going that route because it is likely you will need a follow-up application: https://www.amazon.com/Sedgehammer-Plus-Herbicide-Grams-Packs/dp/B007PHNUOE
Edit: I'm not sure why I was downvoted but if it was due to the ref URL I don't know what the ref was for. I just searched for the product on Amazon and then copied the URL from my address bar. I didn't get anything out of anyone's use of that URL.
I’m in Cincinnati area and taking the total reseed seed plunge tomorrow after today’s ridiculous all day soaking rain, throwing 100% TTTF seed down tomorrow on about 2500sq ft. I’m topping with peat moss and hoping for a warm fall...Your 90% TTTF will germinate much faster than the KBG, so IMO you should be ok. I would think you wouldn’t be taking as much risk down in Music City.
And...The predicted forecast is a warmer than average November.
The agri-fab weighs 90 lbs plus whatever you place on top for bricks.
Oh no…. No no no…..
Sun Joe AJ801E 13 in. 12 Amp Electric Scarifier + Lawn Dethatcher w/Collection Bag, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FEATL2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_THN5TBHBPNV5YEKE1BPN
A rake like that will not only destroy your hands, it’ll destroy you soul, spirit, and will to live.
Dethatching and scarifying really need to be done via machine. Gas/battery/plug in, one way or another it’s gotta be powered. You will not have nearly the same success as you will with a hand rake.
We dethatched after 3 years, and we’re amazed at the amount it pulled up. Never would I ever wish that amount of work on my worst of enemys.
First, I'll say that a timer that screws onto your sprinkler costs about $35.
Applying Disease Ex to a 4000 square foot lawn one time also cost $35.
That being said, fungus and watering is a function of the amount of time the lawn stays continuously wet.
The magic number is about 10 hours. 10 hours of continuous leaf moisture puts you in the danger zone
So look at the forecast, and guess when you think the grass will be dry tomorrow, count back 10 hours, and don't water before then if it can be avoided.
Or, get a hose end timer and water when the grass is already wet.
I bought this one from Amazon about 2 years ago. Looks almost identical. I'm guessing agri-fab makes it for JD anyways.
Edit to add, the thing works great. I have some old broken up concrete that I use for the weights. It's amazing what I pull up every year.
I've got .70 acres, and 6 massive Oak trees (plus a dozen other kinds behind the house). I collect them into a pile, use a leaf shredder on top of my yard waste bin. And then leaf bags to supplement. I attempted to mow them the first year here, and there was so much shredded leaf leftovers it killed large sections of my grass.
Maybe buy a second oscillating sprinkler like the one you have, and use some silicone tape to seal off as many holes as you need to keep from spraying your neighbor? Kinda ghetto-ish, but would probably accomplish your goal.
EDIT: I just found this one on Amazon that is fairly configurable. Another option, anyway.
I have a large yard and love my moving sprinkler. This one my favorite
"These models feature Briggs & Stratton engines, capable transmissions, and lighter-weight construction all-around."
"True, the Select-Series tractors cost more. But in addition to their sturdier parts and construction, dealer-sold machines have warranties that are twice as long."
I bought some from a local garden center and they make it themselves and I... don’t remember the mixture. But I also used Perennial Rye from GreenView with great success.
Not a direct replacement for something like milorganite but I've had good results with the Organic Fertilizer from Anderson. I use it in the backyard ever since my dog got sick after a Trugreen app.
I've gone through about 4 weed whackers over the past few years and now have an electric one. I think it's great, obviously it has its limitations but it has a lot of positives.
First of all mine cost $27 on Amazon. I mean even if it's a total bust that's only $27. This doesn't count the cord, but if you need a cord that's used only for this, a 50 foot cord suitable for a 4 amp trimmer is about $15.
It's light weight because there's no motor, obviously you have to drag the cord around but it is easy to use.
Like you maybe I have about 10 places around the yard that need it, I bought an extra spool of trimmer line but in 2 years have not needed it.
Obviously if you need to trim anything more than 50-90 feet from the house this isn't going to work but if you have a small yard I have no idea why you'd mess around with a gas trimmer which is far more expensive and requires a lot more maintenance.
I had a battery powered mower for a while which soured me on battery powered appliances, maybe a batter powered trimmer would work ok but I don't think the battery technology is very good and if you have to replace the batteries it'll probably be as expensive as buying another appliance.
I usually trim every other time I mow. I am definitely not a lawn not but even I have to admit that the yard looks 1000 times better after being trimmed. And it only takes a few minutes.
Better off with a straight-edge shovel or something purpose-built like this to make a slit and push the cable in as you go.
The weed eater isn't going to handle this well at all.
I got these for my tree suckers from my Poplars.
Works decently.
> When's the best time to try and level?
Fall, when the temps start to cool a bit so the sun will not destroy the grass as it starts to grow, but still hot enough that the seed germinates. In Oregon, that is probably the first half of Sept.
> How short should my grass be when I start leveling?
Scalp it. You want to stunt the existing grass to allow the seed to get started and compete. Also makes it easier to rake in the compost.
> How much soil/sand mixture should I try and put on at once?
Depends how much new grass vs old grass you want. If you are heavily overseeding, put as much no as you want. Basically you will get a new yard. If you want to retain the old grass, 1/4" to 1/2" is about all I would recommend.
> How often can I add layers?
Once a year is what I did.
> Should I aerate the lawn before trying to level?
You certainly can and some recommend it.
> Should I overseed before leveling?
After applying compost and as part of last raking/leveling operation.
Get a landscape rake like this: https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-10036-Aluminum-Landscape-36-Inch/dp/B0000C1XMY
If you have a tractor, I pulled an upside down palette around with weight on it to spread and breakup compost.
If you lawn is terrible and not worth saving, consider hiring someone to come in and run a power rake over it and just restart from scratch. That will level it out.
EDIT: this is what I mean by a power rake: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_HSxG2H2Q4, not one of those little walk behind things (they are useful for other reasons).
I'm no expert, but I ran a few descriptive searches for that plant you're trying to identify and found this stock image that looks like the same one: https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/leaves-white-serrated-edge-ulmus-parvifolia-773002297
The name "Ulmus parvifolia Frosty" appears in the caption. I think that might be it!
This is actually a really good slide presentation from Oregon State n 2008 about our area. Its actually very unique in the United States. Good news is we have mild winters and summers usually which means grass can grow year around. The bad news is we are so wet and have mild winters and summers that weeds and weed grasses can grow year round as well.
I got this one and really like it. I tried a cheap one without the handles (had to hammer it into the dirt), then got this and it’s way better. Looks like it’s on sale now too.
DesirePath Soil Sampler Probe 20... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083THFJKG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That tool likely won't do much to relieve compaction. You need to actually remove cores from the ground so that the eliminated material gives the rest of the soil more room to loosen up. That tool will make holes by compacting the soil around it even further.
If you can't get access to an aerator (which lawn services in France should have, my friend's landscape company in Catalunya has them), then a tiller is the next best option. If you want to do it manually, this is a better tool because it has hollow tines to remove material (its available in FR).
Before aerating, remove the weeds. I'm aware that man-made herbicides aren't available in France, but something systemic like glyphosate or triclopyr (which is available in Ireland as brush killer, could order to FR) will be better than something non-systemic like vinegar. You want to kill roots, not just leaves. Then, use whatever you want to strip as much of the dead vegetation as possible and seed onto the bare soil. Cover it with a thin layer of soil/compost/peat (about 5mm) and then keep it wet for a few weeks, and BOOM you'll have grass.
Bonne chance avec tout!
I have used this one with good success:
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE/
I’ve been impressed with the adjustability of this one. Had it for a couple of years now.
If you can aerate with an aerator that pulls plugs out, that is ideal. I use this one from Amazon (I also have very little lawn) it works great, and I have used a machine before and the manual one does just as good of a job, just takes longer.
https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Dethatching-Aeration-ID-6C/dp/B00EOMCJD6
I just had to deal with these guys. Everywhere I looked on my fresh seedlings of Bermuda there were 3-4 worms. The bermuda was looking weirdly short/not as full.
I put down Duocide and watered it in. Immediately I saw them start seizing. I felt kinda bad but also very satisfied to see it working.
The next day I didn’t see a single worm moving around. And the Bermuda started growing better the following week.
Highly recommend!
The Andersons DuoCide Professional-Grade Lawn Insect Control - Covers up to 4,500 sq ft (18 lb) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PH2ZZJH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PJAA4QQS5RGP314ZFVZN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Great advice /u/GSC_4_Me. When it comes to watering I was shocked (after 20 years) of how perfect and efficient my watering became when I installed my B-Hyve smart sprinkler controller and enabled the Smart Schedule and tuned each zone using their app and their catch cups. The app walks you thru testing and tuning each zone.
I realize its a bit more expensive, but its likely to work way better. Anyone that saw this would probably walk their dog on the other side of the street. Even if you dont spray herbicides/pesticides, they dont know. Stick it in a back area of the yard, they may not see it immediately the first time but when they do they will act on it.
https://www.amazon.com/SmartSign-Aluminum-Treated-Pesticides-Graphic/dp/B00HKAE8NI
Cant be two difficult to make a die that doesn't affect my grass, is highly water soluble, is super blue, and degrades in sunlight. Just pay the 12 buck man. https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Harvest-Concentrated-Pattern-Indicator/dp/B01G7M309M/ref=bmx_1j4f4vgn_1/131-8849209-4603053?pd_rd_w=WR2Ig&pf_rd_p=1f75fbb3-7d95-464f-8182-952155c0316b&pf_rd_r=CY54TXYNHHA9XJ80E043&pd_rd_r=85cdf49c-471a-408...
you can over seed in zones, which takes longer but would be more effective. I don't have irrigation, and use melnor digital timers. I've tried a different seed in a couple areas last year, and will do a larger overseed this year in the back. Their mini max oscilater gets good coverage and can be chained if you have the water pressure. https://smile.amazon.com/Melnor-65003-AMZ-Oscillating-Sprinkler-QuickConnect/dp/B07PBKVNWQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=melnor+sprinkler&qid=1624720486&sr=8-4
edit: also for my tttf, rye, kbg blends it's the 2nd spring after the overseed that really shows me how good it is. Stuff that was only on it's first season last year is much better this year.
Last year I got the “larger” container that makes multiple batches. I don’t recall but think it will make like 20 batches of something.
Sedgehammer + 51516 Herbicide, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GGQ44A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YJ7E7YH3YQCBJT7SSW3P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have brown spots even after watering for longer times and even after a heavy rain.
Does this work better on that?
Scotts 44611A Food-10 M | Green Max Lawn Food, 10,000 sq. ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168K8VQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X0E6WZDC9ZRYFHM0M3V1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've been plugging with grass grown in pots for two years now. The best way I've found is to grow in these peat pots:
Augshy 75 Pack 2.4" Peat Pots for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086DBFYR4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They are perfectly sized for the proplugger. I mean I literally just popped them in. What I planted in April is starting to spread quite quickly.
It sounds like you may have a thatch problem. You could try buying the Sun Joe dethatcher or paying a lawn service to dethatch or aerate your lawn.
My buddy had a small patch and used a trimmer with a wheel-base. I think it was this:
BLACK+DECKER 3-in-1 String Trimmer/Edger & Lawn Mower, 6.5-Amp, 12-Inch (MTE912) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HH4K6XS/
I love my Zero G hose. It's relatively lightweight, and is easy to roll and move when I need to.
https://www.amazon.com/zero-G-4001-100-Garden-Hose-100/dp/B01GHSBKOS
Chemical, glyphosate. Compare n save
I spayed 2 times, early August and mid August. For the front/side yards this fall I am going to do nearly the same thing....but I actually have some grass there already so will not go all out. However two things I am definitely going to do this time different is: 1) Do 1 round of glyphosate, then power rake, then do the 2nd round of glyphosate and 2) Use tenacity when I seed.
The split of glyphosate is because after power raking I think seeds were turned up a bit and germinated. If I rake and then wait to see new growth and knock it again its just that much less competition with the grass seeds starting.
The struggle is real with those bottles. I just bought this bottle and I'm hoping it will help out with the built-in measuring compartment.
Don't spend money on a property that is not yours. One unpopular option is to paint it green.
But if you really want a good lawn, post some close up pictures, so we can help you identify the grass first. Then, we can determine the next steps.
In the meantime, watch the lawn Care nut on YouTube.
I hate this weed so much. Thank you for naming it for me. Neither of my neighbors keep their lawns, and this is one of the little bastards that keeps cropping up in my lawn.
I'm trying to buy the herbicide for it, but Amazon isn't letting me ship to my home or office. I can't find it local either. Any idea how to procure this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBKUHC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
As you do more research, you'll be tempted to till your lawn. Don't. Using a power rake and core aeration is a better option.
You can rent a power rake but it was cheap enough on Amazon to buy one for future use, so I went for that.
This is what I bought last year for $100. Sun Joe AJ801E 12 Amp 12.6"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FEATL2I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
SunJoe is a good brand. I had an issue with the first one I bought and they sent me a warranty replacement without a hassle.
Core aeration machines are too expensive to buy (couple thousand dollars), so renting or hiring someone to do it is the best option. The machines are big and heavy, so make sure you have room in your car before renting it.
When you buy battery powered tools for your lawn, consider the whole system the company sells. You want to find a brand of tools you'll buy everything from, so the tools can share batteries. Sometimes the battery and charger is half the price of the tool. If you already have a battery from a different tool, you can buy a version without the battery and save that money.
Look at GreenWorks line of lawn tools. They have a good range of products. Once you have a charger and battery, you can buy the other tools without that and save. Though, I like to have two batteries in case I run out of juice in the middle of a task.
First step is mowing it high in the spring to keep the sun from reaching the dirt below, that’s how weeds form. I also have some spray from Amazon that I use on creeping weeds like clover and I often go out and manually pull the few dandelions that pop up.
Check out the soil savvy test kit from Amazon. Soil Savvy - Soil Test Kit | Understand What Your Lawn or Garden Soil Needs, Not Sure What Fertilizer to Apply | Analysis Provides Complete Nutrient Analysis & Fertilizer Recommendation On Report https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIMOG8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_15OjDb486EAS9
What part of the country do you live in? If it’s really bad I would also suggest nuking it, But if there’s a little bit of grass at least 30% I would use a weed killer like speed zone. Then when my soil temperature hits 70 I would over seed it
Not a Prime Day deal, but the generic form of Tenacity is down to $47. That’s a heck of a good price!
I've had fantastic luck with these with my lower pressure well pump system:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PBKVNWQ
I've only got one of these "sled types" but nine of the spike types - no idea why they're so expensive now, they were ~$22 each when I got mine last Fall. 😐
You don't have to re-cut it that often. You can keep it clean with a trimmer through the season. It lasts a few years before needing to be re-cut. I'm adding some more around the property now, and I bought this tool for keeping them clean. It cuts off a very thin shaving of soil, so I don't foresee losing a ton of lawn over the years.
I bought the flame king on amazon. It works pretty well, can be finicky about staying lit but that's not really a big deal. I also have to disconnect the propane when I'm done because it leaks.... with that said, it's also the most fun thing to own for lawn care.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5HBZJL/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_soHyFbBEMGY3W
i bought a flexible 100’ hose on amazon a few months ago, and i love it. a few of my friends and family have since bought one. we’ll see how well it holds up over time
VIENECI 100ft Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PY7B4Q8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
your post is my situation, word for word. It’s fungus.
i purchased copper fungicide on Amazon, liquid for sprayer. I just sprayed (using Chapin hose sprayer) yesterday and I could tell it was working immediately. You need to do this ASAP.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052NL4FK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They make a power version, too.
I use one that I buy off Amazon and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=lp_3480689011_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1538146559&sr=1-2
You local university may also have a lab where you can send a sample for testing. They usually do not cost much https://ag.umass.edu/soil-plant-nutrient-testing-laboratory/fact-sheets/sampling-instructions-for-routine-soil-analysis
It will work. Your local hardware store has the fittings you need. You can either lay black hdpe pipe with barbed pvc fittings and hose clamps or rigid pvc pipe with glue on pvc fittings. Either way, make the final fitting near your spigot be a 3/4” threaded. Then put a brass adapter on that converts 3/4 pipe thread to hose thread. This is the key part but it is carried by all the hardware stores. Should look like this (amazon).
Buy a 6’ garden hose to go from spigot to your in-ground.
Don’t forget to plan how to winterize your system. Slope all the pipe to automatic drain valves or plan to hire someone to blow it out each fall.
I just noticed this deal on the Slickdeals front page and thought of this thread. Prime Members: 21" Greenworks 40V Cordless Mower w/ 2x 2.5Ah Batteries $200 + Free S/H
I've also used Grampa's Weeder to much success in getting down to the root. Weeds can sprout up later in other spots, but once they're pulled the grass crowds it out and it doesn't come back.
What is wrong with the snapper? Is the transmission slipping or is the engine bogging down?
I mowed several acres with one of these every week as a kid 30 years ago. If it is anything like the one I had there is friction clutch disc thing that wears out and needs to be replaced every few years. It is a real simple fix 10min fix if I recall helping my dad correctly. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stens-240-394-Drive-Disc/dp/B00GJY95AW/
Are you looking for something automatic, or just something you can manually check?
If it’s automatic, they make personal weather stations you can put on your property that connect to your Wi-Fi. You’d want to get one with a self-emptying rain gauge and you can just check the app.
If it’s manual, I’d recommend weather underground. Just enter your zip code and it’ll pull up your city, under the city it’ll say a name of a Station, with a link to “change”, you can click change and it will pull up a map with every weather station around you…choose the closest one to activate it. Then click the name of the station and it’ll show you current conditions (including precipitation), or scroll down and choose any previous date for a record of what happened that day. The 10 day forecast also provides anticipated rainfall in words and with a graph.
Get yourself a few rain measuring type things like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001000FG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Spread them out in the zone. Run your sprinkler for some set period of time, 10 mins makes for easy math. Then take a look at all your gauges and find the average amount of water. Now you know how much ~ your sprinklers for that zone put out in 10 mins. Figure out how many mins you need to run them to get the weekly desired amount of water, say 2 inches. Then take that time divide it in 2 and you have the amount of time to run your sprinkler 2x a week.
edit: should add do this for all your zones, duh.
Depending on what kind of weed wacker you have, it may accept a brush cutter attachment. I previously had a cheap troybilt and now have a more decent Husqvarna, but both accept trimmerplus accessories. They sell an $80ish brush cutter head that replaces your standard string head and allows you to attach what is basically a blade from a circular saw.
I have an area inside my fence that I cut at ground level and my mower takes care of any shoots through the year. They’ll eventually just die. For the area behind my fence, it only takes 15-20 mins once per year to knock down any new growth. I also use it (dangerously cause I’m an idiot) to limb low growth on my trees vs a pruning saw. It’s easily my favorite yard tool.
Edited to add a link to the Brush Cutter and the blade
How many inches are predicted? Check out www.wunderground.com.
It really depends... if the area pools water or has runoff / erosion easily, then no. If not, then a lot of water is fine.
You don't want to drown it or wash it away.
"Applying gypsum for lawns will dislodge the sodium which slowly restores the proper soil structure. Once dislodged, the sodium leaches below the root zone and away from plants."
http://www.lawn-care-academy.com/gypsum-for-lawns.html
"neutralize
2. to make (something) ineffective; counteract; nullify"
WHY do they even make lower settings? The low notches should be labeled "early spring bermuda" and "fescue killer" I guess. I need to issue a PSA on nextdoor.com EVERYBODY STOP SCALPING YOUR LAWNS! GRASS IS A PLANT, NOT A HAIRCUT! Yeah it's lookin thicc, son. People are gonna be driving past that, turning heads, goin "hey that wasn't ever striped before" lawl
Yeah, it took a bit to find them in the pic for me, but they look like armyworms. Big box stores have stuff for them or if you want to go hard core on them you could use this:
The Andersons DuoCide Professional-Grade Lawn Insect Control - Covers up to 4,500 sq ft (18 lb) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PH2ZZJH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VPJFRFQQPYC18SCH29EC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You may also want to cross post in r/pestcontrol. Pest control techs are in that forum and have helped me out a lot with pest questions.
I have a problem with black locust trees sprouting up in my yard as well. Some years are worse than others. They are terrible. They love the heat and grow incredibly quickly.
I'm not sure about a pre-emergent solution, but I've found that spot spraying the spouts with 2,4-D Amine is very effective. Mix at 3 Tbsp in 1 gallon water, add 1 tsp of surfactant. They will start withering within a day and then can easily be pulled up. It's best to spray them before they get too large. As other's have mentioned they are very hardy.
Here is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Killer-Control-Broad-Leaf/dp/B0072289CA
I used this dual hose timer in the past before I got my in ground irrigation. Worked very well. It had 3 spigots, One for manual watering, and the other two and interdependent hose timers, so effectively two stations. Both of which can be controlled individually.
If the areas are small, then you might be able to get away with two small sprinklers at once. I DIY'd Hunter MP Rotators on spikes and I have 8 of them going at once. You can also get t a multi zone timer like timothy suggested. I have the dual zone one (https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-3-Outlet-Programmable-Faucet-Timer/dp/B008VDULGG/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_i=B008CMRNRQ&th=1) and it works great.
This is what the app PictureThis identified, very useful app for identifying plants
That's so much better than the ones of the dog squatting over with "NO!" written on it. Like what the fuck is that? If anything I feel like that makes them more of a target because they come across as a crabby douchebag lol. I may very well be in the minority on my opinion of those signs though who knows.
Not sure if the linky will work, but I suggest ordering some sprinkler rain gauges. A pack of 10 is 20 bucks. That way you can at least track the amount of water areas are getting.
I throw one of these in his morning food, never had a problem since. Used to get dead grass at every pee spot.
What I would do is now once you get your mower is to simply mow. Once that done order a soil test on Amazon. There are many on Amazon. Amazon link. . Once you do your test you will get your results back within a couple of days. That will tell you the ph and nutrition content of the soil. The report for the soil test will recommend you a fertilizer, and or necessary adjustments you need to make. Once you get your soil test results back. Private message me and I will gladly help you for free.
One other thing you can do if your not a diy kind of person is hire a lawn care person. Such as trugreen. They will help you with weed control and fertilizer. You won’t have to do anything. There are also organic options.
We had the same issue, but these victor flytraps are amazing. Victor M380 Fly Magnet 1-Quart Reusable Trap With Bait (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DL410JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A5J3J3N76NNK98MJF1XT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just hang them around the area. They smell like death but trap flies so quickly
I bought a mulching blade for my Toro recycler and it cuts much better than the standard blade. Never tried what you are talking about. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BR1BLHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can sharpen then with a cheap file, $5. Any repair shop will probably sharpen them for $10. You can buy a blade sharpener for about that price. I use my dremel now, takes about 5 minutes.
I used to have a shaken similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-3143-PS-MED01-BladeMedic/dp/B0085PPSIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Blade+sharpener&qid=1623469622&sr=8-5
Took me about half an hour to sharpen it with that thing. I like the dremel a lot more, and I can use it for other stuff. There's a blade sharpening attachment that came with it... Damn thing is worthless, easier to free hand it.
That’s more of an established grass fertilizer. You want something with P (the second value) to help establish roots in the new grass. I think what I use is even between all 3, maybe around 14-14-14 but this stuff is really good as well, especially since it prevents weeds from coming up as well. That’s really helpful because not only are you making the environment good for grass to sprout, weeds will thrive too.
htps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B04KC4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RF0EFGXVZ7K0RJXDTVJB
There's this place online that has all sorts of stuff... have you checked there?
I think they call it a bowtie mounting hole. But there is a few slightly different ones so look carefully.
I had june bugs teearing up my roses last year which prolly means i had grubs becausee its my understanding the june bugs are the adult of a white grubs.
I have used the product below a couple times since then and i dont see any sings of grubs or june bugs yet.
I know it doesnt say it kills grubs on the lable. I just know i dont have any june bugs hurting my roses yet this year. I think i usd one other spray for insects in apr trying to kill off digger wasp so there is a small chance whateever i used then (that didnt takee care of the digger wasp problem) killed them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGPN6FU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My wife did essentially the same thing as your 2nd idea for our vegetable garden this year.
Plastic cups filled with her potting mix and holes drilled in the bottom, set in a rubber shoe tray like this, set on top of a seed starting heating mat, under a 40W LED shop light.
The shoe tray is great, you can fill that with water and the cups will suck it up through the holes keeping the soil in them moist but not too wet for the seeds to germinate and grow properly.
The heating mat keeps the cups warm enough for things that need relatively warm temperatures to germinate. We keep our house at 65 during the day and 60 at night which is a bit too cool for tomatoes or peppers.
The shop light makes a pretty good grow light. It replaced an Amazon grow light and the plants took off after we put it in. I built her two ladder supports so the light could be at different levels out of scraps. Two of our tomatillo plants had flowers before we had a chance to transplant them (MN 4b, we very nearly had frost this morning...).
Aerating without removing matter is only further compressing the areas around it and does nothing really long term for the soil. DONT use a pitch fork to aerate. Get something like this which will pull plugs out, then you can do a compost/sand mix in those holes. You could then overseed and top dress with more compost. Should be maybe a 2 6 pack job, at least, though.
So, the first thing I would do is look around your neighborhood. Are other people having this problem? Unfortunately I moved into a neighborhood and they're EVERYWHERE. That said, removing their food source is always best, but in my case, unless I could convince all the homeowners in the 5-6 acres surrounding me, it does little to mitigate the problem on my own. They still move in in search of grubs from all sides.
That leaves me with trapping. I tried smoke bombs, sonic spikes, all the baits, and juicy fruit. I couldn't get any of them to work. But I have had good success with these Talprid traps. I found a pack of 4. Over the past 4 years, they've broken here and there and I'm down to one left. But the key is finding a good tunnel that they regularly go through.
The mounds that come up are where their tunnel all come together. Try to find a tunnel a couple feet away and you can catch quite a few. Now, I just fight them away from the perimeter of my yard as they try to invade from my neighbors.
I fill a clear plastic cup with water in the quantity of product I will use, mark a line, dump the water, fill to line with product.
You could buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MEKP-Dispensing-Bottle-500ML-16oz/dp/B078TPPXH1
I got one of these last year:
Giraffe Hose Reel, 5/8" x90' Wall Mounted Retractable Garden Hose Reel Heavy Duty with 9 Pattern Hose Nozzle, Any Length Lock/Automatic Rewind/Slow Return System/180° Swivel Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084VLRC9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RGSZPKC47Q99A0Y56AME
We really used it last year, and after getting it out of the garage this spring, it still works just as well as it did last summer. The spring on the retractor is strong, and it’ll pull the whole hose back in full of water. No problem.
I’d start more conservative and cheap - what about this stuff?
BioAdvanced 704100B Bermuda Grass Weed Killer Bermudagrass Control for Lawns, 32 oz, Ready-To-Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D25Y0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9WCDGTJESZ9EZCH57VAW
Can’t hurt to try at that price.