What are
/r/longrange's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/longrange:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/longrange:
SourceForge
Greasy Fork
JustPaste.it
Camelcamelcamel
Expatistan
Vimeo
Player FM
TikTok
GIMP
Google Photos
Wikimedia Commons
Autodesk Tinkercad
Remove.bg
imgbox
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/longrange:
Range Buddy
Applied Ballistics
AndMeasure (Area & Distance)
Strelok Pro
Strelok. Ballistic calculator
ZZDrag
Reloading Assistant
Avenza Maps
Strelok+
Latitude Longitude Location
The most popular reviews in /r/longrange:
Not a strange question at all. Don't have a dog myself, but it makes plenty of sense to want to protect their hearing. Wasn't even aware hearing protection for them was made in the first place, but looks like it is. eg: https://www.amazon.com/Mutt-Muffs-DDR337-Hearing-Protection/dp/B002CZQ1TA (I don't endorse or have any experience with that particular product. Just the first thing I came across.)
Honestly, the AR Optics series is pretty decent for the price. I used the first gen 3-9 on my 5.56 SPR build for quite a while and it did well. They track alright and the glass is ok. It's been getting kicked around on an airsoft bolt action for about a year and is still going strong. It's been dropped, tossed, hit with bbs, and bashed on walls going through buildings. At the $80 I paid, I'd do it again.
I have this one which looks different than yours, though. I think you have the newest gen. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD55L82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LP1PCb9WPKHP0
[I have to mention this is quite cheaply built the switch is rather janky. It moves quite a bit of air down the barrel though, makes it whistle a bit.](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCPKYFT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
A good book, covering everything from cartridge choice, rifle setup,scope mechanics, math, high angle shooting, shooting over and under obstacles, long range subsonic shooting, precision reloading, math, understanding environmental conditions and how to adjust for then, ballistic truing
3rd edition is out, and is $30
This scope os coming off my m1a and going on the Q Trijicon TR26-C-200104 AccuPoint 2.5-12.5x42mm Riflescope, 30mm Main Tube, MOA-Dot Crosshair Reticle with Green Dot, Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQSP0NG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_W0ESDb20GJF4Q
Warne makes significantly cheaper and very good rings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PX0KQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kleckner’s book on long range shooting. https://smile.amazon.com/Long-Range-Shooting-Handbook-Cleckner/dp/151865472X
Also his material on YouTube https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLACF2AEF0EC711484
See my comment below about the paint I used, These are the sponges I used: amazon link
This is my first time trying out this pattern, I've only every previously used the mesh bag technique. I just sprayed paint onto paper plates and dabbed the sponge in it and went to town, pretty straight forward.
What's great about doing a camouflage pattern is you can't really mess it up, it's not supposed to be perfect or symmetric. If you mess it up you just paint over it.
Thanks!
I use the free app called Range Buddy. Its a pain in the ass to learn since the instructions suck, but once you learn its actually fairly easy.
Try shooting a .22LR rifle at the same distance, off the bench, with irons or a 4x optic, and see how you group. I suspect it will be a lot better. The noise and recoil of a centerfire gun is probably preventing you from seeing trigger control issues you're having.
Regarding seeing the target, and the statement from other shooters that they could get away with irons... the trick is that you don't need to see the details of the target to aim at the middle of it. If you look at the targets used in, say, high power matches, they have a fairly large solid black circle as the aiming reference. The aiming black is easily visible with the naked eye at the intended shooting distance. It's not a pinprick point, but you can achieve pinprick accuracy on it by aiming consistently for the middle (or bottom, or sub-6, or whatever your favorite hold is).
Yeah I agree. Leave it at home if you don't need it but when it's so hot you swear your nomex is about to spontaneously ignite then I will take what I can get. Also if your going glamping you can pack circuit board freeze spray. Looks stupid till your the one with ice cold water in the middle of the day.
- Get a pair of binoculars to help you spot. They're good to have anyways.
- Use a high contrast target like this one
- I would try to zero it as much as possible before you get to the range. Take the upper off and set it on something flat. Point it out a window at something interesting. Take out the BCG and look through the barrel. Move the scope reticle until the barrel view and the scope view match. It should then be very quick to zero.
- Find an experience friend to help you out. Sometimes you just need someone there with you to help you work those issues out.
Skip the scar 20, or any other semi auto sniper rifle.
If your want 300 norma and are worried about breaking the bank... you don't want a 300NM.
300WM.... is not the 300 to buy, 300prc is.
Don't want to break bones carrying it? Well its going to be an uncomfortable gun to shoot a lot then. My 300prc is 25lbs.
Honestly it sounds to me like you should do a lot of research and reading before you spend any money. Go buy this book. Read all of it before you spend money.
I got this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE
and threw a couple dozen in my foam case, a few in my ammo box, and then found other stuff around the house to use the rest on. They have beads that change color when saturated, and you can microwave them to ‘recharge’ them.
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Grease ring is the grey ring left on the paper. Ideally, you would have equal distance on all sides of the ring, not just one side of the ring touching.
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Maybe something like this?
Athlon Optics , Argos BTR, Riflescope, 6-24 x 50 First Focal Plane (FFP) 30 mm Tube, Illuminated APMR MIL Reticle, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0157N4640/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2XBV3566MYBS8H7CCWAQ
I’m considering that one, I know I won’t be using it much but it would be good to have.
Wheeler Digital Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Interchangeable Bits and LCD Display for Firearm Maintenance and Gunsmithing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NW5TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_43M1TKV3WHZKWD2699X6
Ten Point Gear Traditional Sling 2 Points 550 Paracord | Adjustable w/Swivels and Clips | Outdoors and Hunting Use | Multiple Color Options | Many Survival Uses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017YLQ1P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V1DK62KQM229750T5SEG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is a similar one that I own
If you're on a budget (a lot of the nice stuff is > $250, checkout Burris rings or vortex rings. Burris XTR rings have done pretty well for me when I had a Viper PST II.
I gave up on using 2x4 target stands awhile ago, got tired of being cut by the shrapnel that gets embedded in them.
I have been using these and they work really well, you buy your own rebar locally, either paint it or use the green epoxy coated if rust is an issue in your climate
The Last Stand Rebar Target Stand Brackets | Best and Most Convenient Way to Hang Your ar500 Steel Targets for Shooting | Made in USA | Veteran Owned https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVX4JB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6AHK2NNEM3133WSAT84J
Loving the Sig Sauer Kilo 2200 BDX, but here it is for $350. The companion app is pretty solid too.
Vortex just came out with some new ones today. That being said, it looks identical to what I bought a year ago off Amazon. This thing is stout
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087PHXNTN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_tO39FbMCW0AJT
Gonna hit you from both sides. Vortex has some awesome customer service and if you're military/law enforcement hit up their customer service before you buy for special pricing. On the flip side I'm that nutter you may notice that uses a Bushnell scope on my .308. So if you want an opinion that isn't going to ram Vortex down your throat I rather like my Bushnell (don't buy it on Amazon apparently because they for some reason have it listed at MSRP right now, can be had for around $750). My only gripe is not having zero stops
That being said I'm going to ram vortex down your throat anyway because I am going to buy a Viper PST with the EBR-2C reticle to replace this Bushnell soon. My entire shooting range is sponsored by Vortex so I've got to play with several of their optics and I rather like them. Even their cheap stuff is nice.
Definitely go the Matthew's Fabrication route.
You purchase it on amazon or on his site, and he contacts you via email or phone to get the exact measurements for your stock (measure with calipers). He then moulds it custom. All you have to do is drill 2 holes through the buttstock and install it.
Takes 15 minutes, looks good, works great.
Sightron S-TAC 4-20x MOA-2 for $410 on Amazon. They were just over $300 over memorial day, but this isn't a bad price.
Way better glass than the X1000, IMO, and good tracking.
I have the book. I’m pretty set on what rifle I want. But he says in the intro “read the whole book before you buy if you’re serious”
What scope rings did you buy? I see Vortex. What height?
Can many your requirements be suited with binos? Snap shooting at 400 yards and antler identifying at the same time in low light is not a thing.
So maybe you need a scope you can snap shoot with and that has modest zoom and a long DOF, but binos you can antler identify with with a big objective.
If you are dead set on a mixed use scope, then look at the VX3i LRP or on the light end and the Ares BTR II on the heavy but feature rich end.
So are you saying i should try use dope charts rather than a calculator? I've been thinking about printing out charts for a variety of density altitudes.
The mat doubles as my case! I've been very happy with it. Its got plently of padding to shield my bony ass from the ground. Its made by NC Star
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R6DEBAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TM4cFbFSA74QD
Stop. Dont buy anything yet.
Go to the side board and read the FAQ
Then go to Amazon and buy this book. READ it.
DO NOT BUILD A 300 RUM or any other magnum. Just don't. To get good at long range shooting you need to put rounds down range, a lot of them. And you need to do it with a round that won't cause you to develop bad habits or get frustrated a quit.
Start with a 308 or a 6.5 creedmoor. Dont argue. Just do it.
Once you are a moa or better shooter at long distance. Then build your magnum. Not before then.
I am speaking from experience , yeah im just some dude on the reddits but I have seen this play out too many times in real life.
Now to answer your build question. Remington is a crap shoot. Some good some terrible.
You would be better off building on a r700 PATTERN custom action, like a Tenacity or an Orgin, or building off a trued r700 action from Northwest Shooting Supply.
The McRee bag rider works well with the Tac A1, but you need a spacer. This one works fine: UTG Super Slim 3 Slots Picatinny... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CKYYH4S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share @rturiak
String tied to a weight, attached to your wall. The plum bob is arguably the least expensive and most accurate way to level your scope. Gravity FTW. You'll just want to level the rifle with something like this across the rail https://www.amazon.com/CTK-Precision-All-Purpose-Level/dp/B000W72HTS
There's also the flashlight method, which still uses a plum bob, but is nice in tighter spaces. Seen here https://youtu.be/TMqL17KwcoA?t=2m51s
The free version of Strelok is already a good start ... available on Android. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borisov.strelok&hl=en
You can also find online ballistic calculators..
You will need things like
bullet weight
bullet length
Ballistic Coeff ( g1 or g7 )
muzzle velocity of your load
some will require twist rate of barrel
This will already give u an idea. Then other factors like
wind
temp
humidity
atmospheric pressure
I use this one and it's worked well. I've used it in areas without cellular reception, so it only requires a GPS connection.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.AndLocation.AndLocation
First, I'm not a very experienced long range shooter.
I've only had the Grendel to 640 and the Creedmoor to about 850. I've had great results with the Grendel gun getting a high hit percentage on a 12" plate at 640 even in stiff changing winds. I did considerably worse with the Creedmoor at 850 the one time I tried, but I've since drastically upgraded the trigger AND found my scope loose at the front ring. I'm confident I'll get similar results next time I get out there.
I have a video of me getting a hit on the third and fourth shots of the day at 640 yards in the wind, the first time I ever tried shooting past 200. If someone with as little practical experience as I have can do it that easily, it's pretty easy. At the end of the video, my friend who had never shot the rifle before nor shot long range before gets five hits in a row in about 15 seconds.
I really need to take both rifles out and get some real training at 1000+ to be sure.
At 100 or 200 yards, both rifles have shot under .3 MOA.
If you haven't already ordered, I highly recommend dropping the extra $50 and getting a Seekins Precision rail. Better quality than EGW and it has a built in recoil lug. Amazon has it here:
Don't know why it says #6-40, but they are indeed #6-48. However, to answer your question, the rail you linked will work with the standard HMR.
> Deer in a forest.
That is a solid choice for the scope (I'm not sure what sort of sales are kicking around right now so I don't know if you can beat that price).
As for the rail, you will need a rail (or some sort of mounting base), and a 20 moa rail is a good idea; I have an EGW 20 moa rail on my HMR.
FYI, if your target mount hole is too low, the top of this will be exposed and you can shoot through it if you high - makes taking them off the T post a PITA. Ask me how I know.
I've moved to these: https://www.amazon.com/High-Caliber-Target-Hanging-Assembly/dp/B071G6B2N9/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Definitely check out the Ryan Cleckner videos from the NSSF. This one from Vortex was also really helpful.
A Wheeler F.A.T. Wrench is pretty essential. Home Depot also might carry the Wheeler wrench and levels. The barrel level is helpful but you can get by with a smaller level to set on the Pic rail and on the turret cap.
I think this is what you are talking about - Amazon.com : Caldwell Pic Rail Adaptor Plate with Durable Construction and Picatinny Rail Attachment for Outdoor, Range, Shooting and Hunting : Sports & Outdoors
It allows you to add a Picatinny rail while still have the normal sling attachment point. The rail itself is small. I added a rail extension to my Savage so I could have a bipod and room under the barrel to attach an IR illuminator for the night scope. Very solid attachment and easy to setup.
this is the one I ordered.. Seemed reasonably priced for the amount.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B75JGS1/
Honestly looks like scrap plastic from some factory they are reselling as fill. Since the pellets are not spherical they seemed to lock together well under slight pressure. Worked great for me.
I filled my front and rear bags with poly pellets. The 10 pound bag wasn't quite enough to fill (probably needed another 1/2 pound or pound or so to fill completely), but I made due.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HLA2HA2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You are almost certainly a better shooter than I am, and I apologize if this is not at all what you're looking for, but I am using a very small sized squeeze bag that is moderately under-filled. I was specifically looking for a cylindrical design that was small enough to get my entire hand around, and when using one hand on bag and one on rifle grip I can keep the rifle relatively steady on it between shots.
I spent several weeks looking for designs and it's a bit of a struggle to find anything appealing in the market.
I'm using something like this.
The nice part of this bag design is it is small enough to clip comfortably on to my belt, the filling is self provided and therefore adjustable, and it is small enough to sit it tall-ways up under the grip of my rifle and get a very firm hand around the bag to squeeze very precisely for a good range of height adjustments.
If you are speed firing in competition this bag may be too small to handle the recoil depending on what you're shooting, or may be difficult to do repeated shots if your rifle tends to jump significantly. It is not a large bag, but filled to the level I prefer I find it very stable for my 308.
I love my allen velocity case. It's got healthy padding and massive zippers. The zipper pulls are about the only thing I found that wasn't great as both of them broke off. Nothing a little paracord can't fix.
Being 55" it fits my savage stealth evo with a 24" barrel and my 8" can left on it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DGWY4F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_-tOaGbTXF9TWD
It's a heat indicator.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085ZYKYMF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_LOLaGbAQW862D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Let's you know when your barrel is getting too hot to shoot accurately or to not damage the barrel. Pretty trick little device.
I think the plano all-weather case is probably going to be your best bet. 42” comes in just under $100 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Weather-Shotgun-Watertight-Tactical/dp/B07B7SB486?th=1&psc=1
Your rifle will have (2) threaded sling studs that have holes through them to attach a sling. You can put an Allen head through them and just twist them out (Lefty Loose / Righty Tighty) Clean out the holes real good with a little bit of solvent on a q-tip, place the rail where it goes (the 2 holes in the rail will line up with the 2 threaded holes in your stock)re use on of the sling studs, put a drop of blue loctite on each thread and torque it down to 45 Inch Pounds and let it dry overnight before you clamp the bipod on. Buy yourself a Wheeler Fat Wrench.
http://ctkprecisionblog.com/2017/05/sling-stud-picatinny-rail-mod-p3-ultimate-gun-vise/
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizing-Measurement-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B0012AXR4S
I just came across this and thought I would share.
Update: Amazon Prime has the fixed 10x elite mil/mil scopes for $223. With a 25% discount it comes to about $167 shipped. Mil/Mil with working turrets works for my little gun project.
Most Bushnell scopes have free shipping from MidwayUSA at the moment as well.
You're right, I was unaware that Hornady made a single-stage LnL. I learned to reload on an old Pro-Jector and then moved to an LnL AP.
And I, too, like the LnL bushing setup. Recently Amazon had these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD1XAI/) on sale for $9.99 (three bushings and a conversion bushing) so I picked up a few of them, as that's the cheapest I've seen the bushings for sale.
Even better, they have a store front and you can probably look through a couple in store.
I have a $100 tripod from Amazon, save your money and buy a nice tripod. Like a Montfrotto ($200) or Feisol ($4-500). That amazon tripod barely holds the weight of my Razor and weighs a ton. I wish I would have just saved the $100 and put it towards something nicer instead of trying to cheapen out.
Use Vortex rings. I have them on my Ruger American and they are amazing. I can't remember which model they are but /u/vortexoptics can chime in. I use the ones that have size screws. I got my torque wrench on Amazon for like $45 from wheeler. Here it is.
I'm gonna poke around vortex website and see if I can find the rings for you. This is they. They are not the best thing Votex offers and I can't even find them on their website anymore hence why I had to hunt down amazon. These things work though. They aren't as good as some of my other rings but you can't beat the quality for the price.
Same price I bought it on Amazon a few weeks ago without any special sale ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ871IV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 vs https://www.midwayusa.com/product/641231/vortex-optics-viper-pst-gen-ii-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-5-25x-50mm-rzr-zero-stop-side-focus-first-focal-illuminated-ebr-2c-moa-reticle-matte ).
I got a Warne M6T3-20MOA, found it on amazon here
Athlon also makes some great products. Just looking at Amazon, here are comparable options. These are both FFP, however. Might be able to find them cheaper elsewhere and as SFP.
What are you planning on utilizing the scope for? Is ~$640 your budget?
>Where did you get the power transformer?
I work in construction and had a spare 40va transformer laying around.
It's a RIB 40va 120-24VAC transformer. Can be found on amazon. I suspect a 20va transformer would be just fine too based on how far I had to turn the dial down. It was hot enough at about 33%.
>Why did you make that paper cutout?
I made the paper cutout so I could mark on the foam where I needed to cut. Originally I was going to leave the cutout pinned on the foam and use it as a guide but the hotknife easily cut through the cardstock I was using for the cutout.
>Why do you store the bolt out of the gun?
I made a spot for the bolt because I wasn't sure how far it would stick into the top foam with the case closed. This way it sits deeper and is more protected. After seeing the knob on the scope and how high that sits, I probably could have left the bolt in the rifle and been fine. I wanted to make all the cuts I would ever need before it was glued down. I can always fill it back in with scraps if I choose to abandon it.
>You glued the cutout piece of foam to the bottom piece?
This particular case had 3 layers of foam. The bottom, middle (which is where most of the cuts are made) and the top. I glued the bottom foam to the case, the middle to the bottom foam, and then the top to the top of the case.
I found this detailed guide on how to do this on an AR15 forum. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Cutting_Gun_Case_Foam__lots_of_photos_/4-292695/
Thanks man, love that chassis. I actually like the Choate stock but am thinking about the Bravo. Any fitment issues?
It’s a Plano storage box. I keep all kinds of crap in there. $50 on Amazon. Not sure what shipping is if you don’t have Prime:
Plano Heavy-Duty Sportsman's Trunk, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017N98OGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x6l9Cb6B3DJ3T
Trivia time: both 3rd Gen 4Runners and Howa 1500s were/are made in Aichi, Japan.
Here is the link to amazon -
Neewer Carbon Fiber 63"/160cm Tripod Monopod with 360 Degree Ball Head,1/4"Quick Shoe Plate,and Bubble Level Including Carrying Bag for DSLR Camera,Video Camcorder,Load Capacity 33lbs/15kg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1C8VGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lOSfDb0S2Z2AG
It’s super light weight and bounces like a SOB on concrete ... dug in the dirt like it was in the photo it held pretty solid ... and the ball head holds really steady with the weight from the rifle
On amazon for what it’s worth.
Athlon Optics , Midas BTR , Riflescope , 4.5-27 x 50 Second Focal Plane (SFP) 30 mm Tube, Illuminated APLR1 MIL Reticle , https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01APT06Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4BCTDbTD8MVF8
Honestly if I were you I’d save a few hundred more and get an FFP
Yeah . https://www.amazon.com/Savior-Equipment-Specialist-Discreet-Precision/dp/B086RHWCZ5?ref_=ast_sto_dp
https://www.saviorequipment.com/collections/single-rifle-cases/products/specialist-51-lrp-rifle-case
Well no foam, but pretty amazing soft cases with padding and scope protection.
I just put a diamondback tactical 4-16x44 on my RPRrimfire. Initially I tried Burris signature Zee 30mm mediums, and they were too low - the bell hit the handguard. Highs might work? But I wound up using a Warne extended one piece mount and it is plenty high. I wish it was lower but couldn’t find a cantilever mount that was any lower, but I with the cheek riser I can still get a good head position.
Buy this. https://www.amazon.com/Army-Special-Forces-Sniper-Manual/dp/1976493005
Read the parts about marksmanship and learn how to shoot well. That rifle is going to offer you the same general shooting mechanics as the equipment in that manual. I.e. no creature comforts or expensive aids. it's better that you don't have that stuff anyhow if you actually plan to trek and shoot, less stuff to go wrong. Ammo doesn't matter much if your training/learning. Just go cheap and stay close at 100yds or meters. You don't need expensive targets, just get a quarter and trace circles with a thick sharpie. Learn the rifle and glass and how they work.
When your goups are consistent at close ranges Reload/upgrade ammo and make them smaller! When your hitting those quarters go longer!
Could you take some pictures so I can understand what you mean? I would be very surprised if your action was somehow longer than the long action bases like this. It is possible they sent you a short action version instead because you had a short action cartridge, but the pre-64 Win70 Targets used a long action for some reason (I don't know anything about them, but wouldn't be unheard of).
If you take measurements of your action, the screw spacing, I would send them to Warne and EGW and see if they have a solution for you.
If that doesn't pan out you could get more... creative. For example you might be able to use the 2 piece base you already bought in conjunction with a riser rail to build something like an adjustable base.
I'm full of bubba shit ideas. I'm sure we could come up with something.
>Bushnell Sentry 18-36x50
I agree.
Non angled version is $80 new in the U.S., and Midway had that same angled model for $100 brand new.
A used one that is discontinued and no longer supported, maybe I'd give $20 if I really wanted it.
If you have a little money to get a spotting scope, get an Athlon Talos 20-60x80.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIKFGJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B8HiFbCGF6JGK razor hd 11-33x50. I mostly got it for hunting because it's nice and light, you can certainly get a less expensive one that will work well off a bench but a cheapo will probably have frustrating clarity.
I agree with the majority of the responses in this thread. Zero the rifle at 100 yards. You can then shoot a 3-5 round group at 50 yards to get an idea of where your point of impact will be with a 100 yard zero (probably around an inch or so difference).
If you don't feel like you can remember your holdovers easily as you head on out to 600 yards, download the Hornady Ballistic Calculator. I'll include links below for Apple and Android stores:
The more experienced shooters in the /r/longrange community may disagree with me on this, but once you get an idea of your velocity, you should be able to ballpark where your rounds will impact regardless of which zero you choose. Enter in your specs for your scope and the app will tell you your MRAD or MOA adjustments and this should get you roughly in the right ballpark. The app works better when you have more precise information to plug in about your load, rfile, scope height on the mount, temperature, etc.
Lastly, don't shoot at big steel plates at 600 yards and call yourself a 600 yard shooter. Practice your mechanics and get consistent at shooting decent 100 yard groups, then walk your way out to eventually hit 600. Don't throw down range lead just to make noise, learn your setup and try to make precise shots with good shooting mechanics. Once you do that, you'll see yourself develop into a better shooter.
Applied Ballistics is $30 or Shooter is $10, both are excellent and have input from Bryan Litz
This thing was pretty much built for people with not much free space to reload https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90180-Breech-Press/dp/B0050Z5A6E&ved=2ahUKEwi375n0tIj8AhUammoFHUlpCmEQFnoECBgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3v_BocoNrAinVKQIRObIdK
I got this. I don’t remember it costing so much though…
I don't mean to be an ass, but why not something like this for under $15?
Bluetooth is somewhat bandwidth limited to do streaming video. Not saying it can't be done it's just difficult. Why not get a small wifi travel router? Wifi doesn't mean you need an internet connection, just a wireless network to connect to. Something like this with a USB battery pack should work. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=asc_df_B01N5RCZQH/ Then you can use all the wifi enabled tools you want.
As much as I doubt the "here to learn" flair you've given yourself the answer is a TI-30Xa (old version w/yellow 2nd key). I've personally seen them survive years of abuse on construction sites and they're small/light/cheap enough that you can have backups.
Savior Equipment. Exceptional quality WAY exceeding the price point. I own 2.
They come in a couple styles, 5 lengths, and 4 colors.
Amazon.com doesn’t seem to show them now, but Amazon.ca still does:
I am learning the MOA and how it works. This is the targets I am shooting I really believe my targets are probably too small. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K1DVBI6/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wiebad, LLC Mini Range Cube,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GV1WPYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the one I’ve got. I need to remove some of the stuff inside to make it a little lower but it works pretty good for me.
I use the 3m Peltor tactical sport and I love them, battery life could be better though. I added some gel cups to mine for about $20. https://www.amazon.com/Peltor-MT16H210F-479-SV-Tactical-Sport-Headset/dp/B000RMJ2F0/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?crid=22JUEKS8G8Y4F&keywords=peltor+tactical+sport&qid=1666276469&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjQ0IiwicXNhIjoiMy4xMyIsInFzcCI6IjIuNDgifQ%3D%3D&sp...
Yeah the magpul bipod is…ok. I’ve heard really mixed things about it. General consensus from what I can tell is it is absolute hot garbage while unlocked and not too shabby locked. Due to its lightweight feature set and well weight, I’m about 99% sure it’s meant for hunting guns or AR-15s where you’ll only be taking 1-2 shots with it and then moving. If money is tight, it’ll do for now, but really start looking at a bipod from Harris (roughly the same price) or Atlas (a bit more expensive around the 300-400 price point). They’re more meant for precision shooting and have a lot more features/stability compared to the magpul one.
Yeah I would absolutely recommend getting a FFP optic. The venom will do if money’s short but really the Seekins HAVAK HIT deserves some better glass than even that. Liberty Optics has some really great deals on the Razor Gen II and Gen III. These are ~2000 but they’re really all you would ever need/want out of a long range precision optic without spending even more fun money.
Finally, get this book it goes over a lot of basics for long range shooting and I found it immensely helpful in understanding some concepts. I’m a fudd so I linked the paperback version, but the Kindle version is only 10 bucks if that interests you. Besides the at, get good ammo and go shoot some!
It’s necessary!
https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Tresda-Floodlight-Waterproof-Spotlight/dp/B086QSKL4J
I just shoot steel at 400 with this, usually early in the morning before it's light. Works pretty well, hard to see misses, but it's good enough for me.
The Long Range Shooting Handbook by Ryan Cleckner might be a good place to start.
I cannot recommend these reads enough as well:
Shoot where comfortable. I have 2 guns that are close like that.
If you want a nice lens cover- camera lens covers (like this) https://www.amazon.ca/Generic-58mm-67mm-Canon-Replaces/dp/B0793LZK33/ref=asc_df_B0793LZK33/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=579349534265&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13480068368833897420&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&am... will clip inside the bell so you can protect the lens during transport.
You're darn right you do. look at how tangled the cables on those guitar pedals are. You need short patch cables to go from box to box.
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This might help:
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https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-6-Pack-Instrument-Effect/dp/B00T5PNV5C
Which V4? The make a tacticalish SFP one that I hate and then they make the more traditional ones which are probably fine... but I want illum and side focus on all my hunting optics.
I wear glasses and successfully zeroed my eotech at 50 yards with the center diamond with these last week.
50 Pack - 12 x 18 inch Sight in -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K1NAA6U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This post is the one. It’s a universal procedure, just choose the ball head you want, and an ARCA rail that fits your chassis.
This is the one I chose. It can support up to 50 lbs, and it is very stout/low profile:
Other than that, all I needed was a 3/8”x6” eye bolt w/nut, and four 1.5” fender washers. It is an excellent alternative to blowing a grand+ on a RRS or Vortex ball head/tripod setup
I love this one: have been loading it up for two years and zero issues. I thought it wouldn’t be good quality at the price, but it’s held up perfectly and I actually bought a second one.
REEBOW GEAR Military Tactical... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KJMK4W2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Atlas knockoff bipod. Cheap and it works pretty decent.
So you went with this model? And can pay the $190 later to upgrade to the full elite? https://www.amazon.com/Kestrel-5700-Ballistics-Weather-Meter/dp/B079MHWN26
> I would be looking hard at every little thing I bring with me after lugging my kit up that hill in the wind.
Day two, I ditched my tripod and binos and decided to borrow. Almost left my shmedium sand fill at the hotel too. Leaving the tripod behind seems to have been a good idea.
I think no two people use the same backpacks. I use a crappy [$30 Amazon bag](amazon.com/Samurai-Tactical-Wakizashi-Backpack-Black/dp/B075VJZWNH/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tactical+backpack&qid=1657632873&sprefix=tactical+ba%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-7) which looks like a 5.11 knockoff. It's on its last leg now. I only carry a nalgene, LMNT packets, 100 rounds of ammo in an ammo box (Alpha brass box), my gamechanger in the bottom, tools, a dump pouch, an iCool towel for my barrel, glasses in case my contacts need to come out, and shelled pistachios. The rest goes in my fannypack from u/rbye390. Gosh that thing is amazing. I feel naked if I go shooting without it, lol.
Good looking build, I absolutely hate load development and reloading in general for my gas guns, they tend to destroy brass after one firing. I get bent shoulders / necks from the shell deflector and 3 little divots on the shoulders from the extractor on the bcg. And…I shoot suppressed so every round looks like it’s a 100 years old & caked in carbon after one mag. This little guy helps a ton.
https://www.amazon.com/Deflector-Brake-Rifle-Brakes-Charging/dp/B06XKYLB8J
Good looking build, I absolutely hate load development and reloading in general for my gas guns, they tend to destroy brass after one firing. I get bent shoulders / necks from the shell deflector and 3 little divots on the shoulders from the extractor on the bcg. And…I shoot suppressed so every round looks like it’s a 100 years old & caked in carbon after one mag. This little guy helps a ton.
https://www.amazon.com/Deflector-Brake-Rifle-Brakes-Charging/dp/B06XKYLB8J
Good looking build, I absolutely hate load development and reloading in general for my gas guns, they tend to destroy brass after one firing. I get bent shoulders / necks from the shell deflector and 3 little divots on the shoulders from the extractor on the bcg. And…I shoot suppressed so every round looks like it’s a 100 years old & caked in carbon after one mag. This little guy helps a ton.
https://www.amazon.com/Deflector-Brake-Rifle-Brakes-Charging/dp/B06XKYLB8J
I'd go with a Tikka over either of those rifle choices, and you can make things harder on yourself by limiting the target size.
I use these 3" targets at 100 yards to nail down positioning, breathing, comfort behind the rifle, etc. Once your rifle is zeroed you can still do things that will test you, like shooting a suspended price tag as it swings in the wind. It helps you get patient and settled behind the rifle, but forces you to make the best of a limited opportunity window.
There's a number of Athlon scopes in that price range as an alternative. Athlon_Amazon