What are
/r/midi's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/midi:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/midi:
MIDI-OX
LMMS
MuseScore
Synthfont
ASIO4ALL
Cakewalk
Helm
Virtual MIDI Piano Keyboard
FluidSynth
Ableton Live
AnthemScore
Awave Studio
JACK Audio Connection Kit
Caustic
Pygame
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/midi:
The most popular reviews in /r/midi:
Yes. The MIDI-OUT is what you'd use to output the MIDI commands from the keyboard into your receiver/DAW/etc.
There are some inexpensive MIDI-to-USB cables available on amazon. Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/cable-Interface-midi-Converter-Laptop-keyboard/dp/B07FTJXFLT
Depending on your DAW, if you bind that MIDI message to a dummy control (e.g. set up a macro knob that doesn't do anything in Ableton and bind the fader to it) it may stop it being passed to other devices.
Alternatively you could filter it out using something like MIDI-OX and loopMIDI. Set MIDI-OX to receive messages from your keyboard and relay them back out to loopMIDI, and set your DAW to read from loopMIDI. Then use the mapping in Options→Data Mapping to handle input Ctrl messages with a Ctrl # of 7 (volume) and set the output event type to Discard and it'll throw the messages away before they get to your DAW.
Personally, I'd go for a can of Servisol Super 10 and clean up the scratchy pot, though. :)
One way to rule out whether it's an issue with your DAW or with the interface is to see what MIDI-OX logs when you play keys quickly - my best guess is that your interface is dropping "note off" messages, hence the stuck notes.
I have seen articles indicating a flaw with the cable's electrical interface, which may work with some MIDI keyboards by accident (rather than by design) but even after fixing that problems with dropping longer messages seem to be common.
Personally, I bought myself a second hand MIDISPORT 1x1 and that works properly for me, but it did cost about four times as much as one of those cheap cables. On the plus side, no stuck notes...
First of all, there is always latency. I assume you mean you're experiencing too much latency!
The guy at the store is correct, if you have a USB connection from your keyboard into your PC, you do not need to use a MIDI cable.
However, you might need to change your sample buffer size, sample rate, etc. My development partner wrote a great blog article about latency that might provide some useful insights. Also, for Windows users, it can sometimes be useful to use the ASIO4All low latency driver for WDM audio devices.
Latency is still a big deal even with the beefiest of machines. Audio programs still have to have their own buffer size set as a sort of "handshake" with the OS's audio driver to make sure that it can supply audio fast enough for the audio driver to output audio without cracks or pops.
I'm not as familiar with Tracktion, but looking through the manual it looks like it does have adjustable latency settings - page 25 of the manual discusses that. Could try increasing the buffer size so your daw can handle processing the audio faster.
Tracktion may also have a "low latency" setting that could be messing with things.
Which MIDI to USB cable are you using? If it's one of these cheap and nasty ones then that's probably where the fault lies. :( You should be able to see what MIDI messages it's receiving in MIDI-OX which would give you further confirmation as to whether it's an issue with the keyboard or USB interface rather than with your DAW.
Personally, I use a second hand M-Audio MIDISPORT 1x1 for connecting my older MIDI devices to my PC and it works well.
I wouldn't recommend those cables, they are not well made (this article covers some of the issues) unfortunately. It's worth spending a bit more money to buy one made by a reputable manufacturer (e.g. M-Audio, Roland, Yamaha).
In any case, for connecting a USB-MIDI controller to a 5-pin DIN MIDI device you'll need a USB MIDI host rather than a USB MIDI interface.
There are dedicated USB MIDI host boxes that can serve this purpose, however if you have a computer nearby then this is likely an easier (and much cheaper) solution; plug the controller and the MIDI interface into two of the computer's USB ports, and use software like MIDI-OX to route MIDI from the controller to the interface, and then connect the interface to the loopstation via a 5-pin DIN cable.
I was going to suggest the Keith McMillen BopPad but I see now it's not what you want to spend your money on. I found this on Sweetwater and it looks like it could do the trick for you.
If it was a the standard USB B to USB A cable, which most MIDI controllers have, it would have looked like this. Easy and cheap to replace. Your local WalMart or equivalent store should have them.
>M-Audio Uno
Sorry, I thought you were referring to the website you linked. Thanks, ill do some more research on it. I found another which was cheaper than your option and it was the Roland Um One mk2
You are likely going to need a USB-B to USB-C cable.
I have an M1 Mac and the bulk of my synths won't see anything that's USB-B>USB-A>USB-C Dongle.
There's the DoReMIDI USB MIDI Host. Amazon has it for a pretty good price. The Kenton MIDI USB Host MK3 is a bit more expensive, but should work as well.
> Hello, I tried my midi controller in android and it was awful. [...] I only wanna several different sounds to practice with and with headphones on.
What exactly was the issue you had with Android? FluidSynth does a fine job for that basic scenario.
> I was targeting more like a 70$ ipad 2nd gen from 2011...
I have an 2012-vintage iPad and it's a miserable experience; lots of software no longer works (or prompts me to update, then complains the device is too old) and the stuff that does still work is absurdly slow.
Do you have an old phone laying around, or can dedicate your phone while working in this? If you do definitely check out this app, 1000% recommended: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.volcanomobile.midi_controller
It just displays faders on your phone screen, you connect it via USB and it acts like a midi controller. The free version can't save different CC combination layouts but you can just set one up that you use and leave it at that. There's an option to combine two controllers into one with an x and a y axis that's super useful. Honestly I love this app.
>1/8" to 2x 1/4"
Can I check if the 2x1/4" is necessary, rather than 1/8" to 1 x 1/4" (i.e. something like this? Presumably using the dual output means I would also need a dual DI box and two inputs to the desk.
Sorry I had one more question, is there a reason I would need a MIDI interface to connect my keyboard old-school MIDI to my laptop, rather than just using a midi to usb cable like this?
I'm sure there are more flexible programs but for an easy option I've found FluidSynth works well and isn't very complicated at all - plug your MIDI controller into your phone using a USB-OTG cable (apparently the iRig Keys 2 comes with one of those already?) and you should be able to start playing instruments from the general MIDI set in FluidSynth.
wii rockband is my go to cheap 2 octave keyboard, its $26 right now.
Rock Band 3 Wireless Keyboard for Wii and WiiU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RS19XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TN2F2E1AJ487E8FWGWKE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A cheap electric piano is probably the best way to go, but just in case you want to do something with that MIDI controller...
There was something called The MidiPlus Midi Engine on Amazon for around $50, but it seems they've discontinued that model for the PianoEngine, which is more than double the price ($129 US). The 'cheaper' one is still available on AliExpress, but it's almost $70 now.
Ask around and see if anyone you know has a multimeter you can use to test the cable. Or just buy a new one - they aren't very expensive.
If you have even basic soldering skills, or a friend that does, the cable is pretty easy to make. Buy a TRS 5mm cable (with plugs on both ends), and a regular 5-pin DIN MIDI cable. Cut both cables in the middle, match up the wires to go to the right pins (look up the connections needed in the Korg's manual), and solder them together. Test the cable, then use heat shrink tubing (preferably) or electrical tape to insulate the wires. Now you'll have two known good cables, and you can customize the length to be perfect for your setup.
Here's an M-Audio MIDISPORT 1x1 for £22 but the seller is open to offers. I personally prefer the flexibility of a separate interface and MIDI cables but if you want an all-in-one solution then the M-Audio Uno is also £22 on Amazon.
Android user as well, and it's been my personal experience that Android kind of sucks for MIDI unfortunately; latency is all over the place depending on device hardware, and there aren't very many synth apps on the Play store at all.
That said if you don't have access to iOS or a laptop, FluidSynth is probably your best bet. Decent latency and the ability to feed it different SoundFonts should give you plenty of options. As long as your e-drums are sending note velocity, you will hear the difference in volume between light and hard hits. Differences in timbre might be dependent on which SoundFont you use though.
This page has a bunch of GM options which should include kits, and some dedicated drums SoundFonts as well: https://sites.google.com/site/soundfonts4u/
Sorry for the delayed response. I'm afraid I'm not familiar with Fruity Loops on the phone, but with FluidSynth installed you should be prompted for which MIDI input device to use - for example, here I have two MIDI controllers plugged into a hub connected to my phone. And yes, it mislabels the input port selection as "outputs", but it's a free app so can't complain too much. :)
If you're on an Apple device then I'm afraid I have no experience with the iOS way of doing things, sorry!
The app connects to your phone using USB. An audio cable will not work, and might just screw up your phone. If you want to get the audio into your phone, you need a TRS to TRRS mic adapter.
Many, many people just use the headphone jack to send audio to a PA system. You just need a Line In jack on the PA. Find a Guitar Center or electronics store (Best Buy might have it) and get a 3.5mm TRS to dual 1/4" TS cable. Amazon link for an example. You CAN just plug one of the 1/4" jacks in - most people use the Left side of the stereo pair (the red one, in the Hosa cable picture).
You could use the headpone output of the Mac for the speaker system. Not optimal, but should work.
Or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Yes, that is a USB 3.0 'B' connector, but I seriously doubt you need a full USB 3.0 compatible cable for it. The extra features, speed and power are not needed, and though the connectors are cheap, the faster and more complicated chips that support USB 3.x are not. They won't waste money not only on the hardware, but redesigning the whole USB section for it as well. A nice cheap one on Amazon will work fine.
There are probably a few of them out there but Cantabile is the one I've used if I just want something quick and lightweight. There is a free version.
Do they all have DIN MIDI outputs?
If so then you can get pretty long MIDI cables. I've run MIDI 50ft before over stranded shielded cat5 with no appreciable signal degradation.
If you need USB, I have used these a lot: USB Extender.
https://www.ableton.com/en/live/
Just know that if you want the sound to come from the PC you need to capture the audio. The MIDI data is just the note you are playing. You can record the notes and have them play over and over but the sound will come from whatever device (synth/drum machine/whatever) you have the sequencer (Ableton in this case) connected to. You need to record the audio if you want the sound to come from the computer.
The Korg microKey 37 fits the bill, but the Arturia KeyStep 37 does, too, and has 5-pin DIN MIDI connectors along with a bunch of other features. If you do decide to go with a USB-only keyboard, DoReMIDI has a MIDI Host box that will let you connect any USB MIDI controller to the Microfreak with 5-pin DIN cables.
You want something like this:
As you can see they come with round plugs in various sizes, one of which will surely fit your device. The plugs can be plugged into the cable's socket in 2 orientations which determines whether the center is plus or minus. The drawing on your picture shows that you want the center to be plus.
this ^ -- you need a center positive, 9v power supply rated at a minimum of 150mA, and then you just have to make sure you have the correct barrel size for your device. In theory, something like this would work for you.
You're going to have to run it through a computer, or use it with some other piece of hardware. There is no way to "load sounds" on the unit to play it as a "normal" keyboard, which is what I'm assuming you want to do?
If you knew that, and don't know how to connect it to your computer,something like this will work to convert the MIDI ports to USB. If the Midistart 2 has USB MIDI, then connecting is even easier - you just need the right USB cable (most likely USB A male to USB B male).
But no matter what, you'll need to connect the midi keyboard to something else to hear sounds.
If the software you're thinking about is ASIO4ALL it is likely he doesn't need it if he's running windows 7 and up. More info here.
Generally Anvil Studio uses the standard "Microsoft Wavetable" if no other midi synthesizer is available. If you like it that much, you can download Viena and open the gm.dls in Windows\System32\drivers and then save it as an .sf2. Then you can open the sf2 in your synthesizer.
It's a little difficult to figure out what you're looking for. Do you want it to ba a computer keyboard that's dedicated to playing midi signals there are programs dedicated to the task such as:
Or, there are a number of midi controllers that are approximately the size of a computer keyboard. I have the Akai MPK mini, I like it but there are many similar controllers made by Alesis, M-Audio, and Korg has a nanokey that's really small and portable. I had one of the original nanokeys but it stopped working after a few years, but honestly that was my fault, years of abuse using it at gigs.
Finally there's the CREATIVE Prodikeys, it's a combination computer keyboard/midi controller but it's discontinued and I'm not sure there's anything like it. There are some that show up on e-Bay though.
I hope in this long winded reply I've been able to lend some assistance. I hope you can find what you're looking for, good hunting!
Don't know the rest of your project, but If I were you, I'd look into SonicPi http://sonic-pi.net/ and a high level language as opposed to attempting to write straight MIDI, but... please don't let me stop you from experimenting and learning about MIDI -- it's fun!
If you're not afraid of Linux, you may want to set up Ubuntu Studio -- it will be harder than using Garage Band on MacOS, but you will find a TON of free tools (with source code!) that you may find useful.
I assume that you are a software developer, and you know how to write apps.
FluidSynth is a library with its own API. The problem may be that FluidSynth MIDI API connects only a single MIDI device at a time as input. But nothing prevents you to handle MIDI input yourself and ignore the MIDI drivers from FluidSynth, using only the synthesizer API.
TouchOSC is probably the closest you can get. Getting it working with your DAW can be... fun. Google recently added better MIDI support to Android, so I'm hoping things will get better fast, both in software quality and number of titles.
BTW -- if you're into making music on Android, you should check out Caustic. Awesome sound on Android - and Free!
Cakewalk is 100% free and it has the best sounding Midi engine. It also has all kinds of great features for editing midi.
The difference between most computers built in midi sound engine and the software one provided by Cakewalk is astounding. You won't believe how much better the same midi sounds in Cakewalk over your default midi engine, which most other DAWs rely on. In order to work with midi at the same sound quality with other DAWs you will have to purchase an external dedicated midi sound device like a Roland Mobile Studio Canvas. Does your DAWs midi sound this good?
Try Cakewalk, you will see.
Controller: you may find many portable, small MIDI keyboard controllers for €100-€200.
Software: Cakewalk by Bandlab is free as a free beer, for Windows 7-10.
Ableton is great when it comes to sharing knowledge about their products or making music in general. Here is some resources to get you started:
https://learningmusic.ableton.com/
https://www.ableton.com/en/live/learn-live/
There is a bit of a learning curve but don’t get discouraged when things don’t work the way you want it to work at the beginning. Follow r/ableton for more specific tutorials and don’t be afraid to ask questions.
Rosegarden? Musescore? Used them in the past on various platforms. Easy, free, fast and versatile. (Without mentioning a lot of others like lmms, but afaik no windows port)
Musescore claims to be able to interpret score dynamics and other impressive things like swing. See: https://musescore.org/en/handbook/3/sound-and-playback
But you may try yourself. There are also many videos to teach you how to use the program. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnoKgja20fg
About your wish to interpret Bach, Beethoven, Mozart, etc. In my opinion, it requires an human artist to interpret those composers, instead of a computer program to play their works.
It shouldn't be too difficult in LMMS, are you plugging in with USB or older style MIDI?
find this: https://lmms.io/wiki/index.php?title=Using_MIDI#The_MIDI_tab
MIDI-OX still exists, is still free, and is still powerful. :) If you need a virtual MIDI cable then loopMIDI is good and free too and works with 64-bit applications.
I would say it's probably more straightforward to remap the controller using your DAW's native control mapping settings (or on the controller itself) than rely on additional software in the middle to translate for you but I'm not too familiar with Reason to know how tricky it may be there...
If you use MIDI-OX does that show you anything meaningful about the information coming in? Do you see the right sequence of note on/note off messages, or is it indicating a problem?
Is your USB MIDI interface cable something like the one in this article? If so it might be worth splashing out on something by a reputable manufacturer (e.g. M-Audio or Roland) as those very cheap cables are not well made at all, sadly.
What was the problem you were having with the USB MIDI interfaces? Did they get detected by your computer (and have working drivers?) Bear in mind that the MIDI coming out of your Clavinova is going in to your computer, so you should connect the MIDI OUT of the keyboard the MIDI IN of the USB interface.
If you're on Windows then MIDI-OX is a very useful utility for displaying what exactly the MIDI interface is seeing, when you run it if you click Options->MIDI Devices you should be able to see your USB interface in the "MIDI Inputs" list and be able to select it, at which point pressing keys should show MIDI messages in the Input Monitor (View->Input Monitor).
Once you've actually got your computer talking to your Clavinova I'm not really sure what to recommend on the software front, though, at least for free - what sort of software did you have in mind?
If you're on Windows then you could try using a combination of MIDI-OX and loopMIDI. You'd create a virtual MIDI port with loopMIDI and then set up MIDI-OX to receive messages from it and send output to the Casio CT-650, then you'd set the software that's producing the MIDI messages to send to the virtual MIDI port. Within MIDI-OX you could then use a combination of Patch Mapping rules to change General MIDI patch numbers into ones suitable for the CT-650 and Data Mapping rules to remap percussion note events from General MIDI channel 10 to the corresponding percussion note number on MIDI channel 4 on the CT-650.
You may also wish to set up Data Mapping rules to also choose which incoming MIDI channels (other than 10) are mapped to output on 1-3.
MIDI-OX has it with a data mapping function
If you're on Windows, you can use MIDI-OX to generate a NOTE-OFF event immediately preceding every NOTE-ON event... Alternately MIDI-OX can instead generate an ALL NOTES-OFF... These will be generated in real-time, btw...
​
MIDI-OX also has a native midifile player...
​
I cannot here go into the exact specifics of how to implement the above changes, but I vouch that it can be done...
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You need a midi utility to transform one input two two different outputs (one for each application), and a midi virtual cable to connect from that utility to your applications.
I don't know what operating system are you using, but if you're on Windows, the midi virtual cable I use is called loopMidi ( https://www.tobias-erichsen.de/software/loopmidi.html ). You can create as many virtual cables as you want.
As the midi utility I use it'scalled MidiOX ( http://www.midiox.com/ ).
The idea is use your midi controller as an input in MidiOX, then filter/transform the messages if you need to and forward them to two different midi virtual cables configured as outputs (let's called them loopmidi1 and loopmidi2). Then, on your first application use loopmidi1 as an input and on your second application use loopmidi2 also as an input.
If you're on a Mac I suppose the idea is the same, but you will need different software (I'm sorry I can not recommend any as I'm not a Mac user).
Hope that helps.
I have not used Python to get MIDI, but from the documentation I can see that the .read() method has a parameter for the number of events, in this case you are setting that to 10, my guess is that until you get 10 events on the buffer it continues, maybe lowering that to 1 would fix the problem.
https://www.pygame.org/docs/ref/midi.html#pygame.midi.Input.read
The Teensy 2.x and 3.x are excellent for this, already have MIDI code for them, and have been used in many MIDI controllers. The larger versions have plenty of input pins, both analog and digital, to cover what you want to do.
But signals loose definition and gain noise over long wire runs. Even the length of an arm might be enough to disrupt analog signals. Something like a 328P, or an even smaller ATTiny, on each hand could communicate to the Teensy in the middle.
If you decide to try simple first, use shielded cables. Both CAT 5e and CAT 6 come in shielded versions, but they're a little expensive. If you know someone in IT, see if they have some scraps you can use. If you only need one pair of wires, shielded microphone cable is much cheaper.
For drum-type sensors, everyone uses piezo disks. Even pro drum sensors use them, and they're cheap! You can just glue them to your shirt and they'll work. Some kind of solid base that holds it still and allows the piezo disk to 'flex' will increase sensitivity and give you better repeatability . A solid wood/plastic ring or a stiff rubber base would work well. It only needs to flex microscopically to generate a good signal.
When you get it running, post and let us know how it worked out.
midiplus miniEngine pro USB host MIDI sound module
There are a few different versions of this around, but this is a good one. If you want to go high end, there's the V3 Sound piano modules - Expensive! But absolutely pro piano sound.
This is probably the cheapest way to do what you’re trying to do with the Arturia https://www.amazon.com/TENINYU-Synthesizer-Microphone-Instrument-Converter/dp/B07L8KFYBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=57633602098&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmqKJBhAWEiwAMvGt6Lk2YeLLUsi6b80OwG2ENmWp0jkDwmNlISQ8SZUGvrDTZ9rzuedF_xoCmgkQAvD_BwE&hvad...
It looks like it's a class-compatible USB-MIDI device so shouldn't have any particular driver requirements. I use FluidSynth on Android and it's pretty straightforward.
I had a class in college with a professor who wrote a pretty accessible book -
https://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Professional-Paul-D-Lehrman/dp/0825613744
However, if you have a controller and a synth specifically that you want to use, I'd probably check the manuals for them first. They may not implement everything, or do so in a non-standard way.
I get you don't want to use a DAW, but it might also be worth while to connect to a computer to use PD or MAX or MidiOx or something for testing / troubleshooting to be able to view the messages being sent in real time to confirm that what you think is being sent is really being sent.
Those have dual purpose USB ports. Do you have "OTG" adaptor that looks something like this to connect it to your piano?
I believe that with a USB 2.0 A-Male to Micro B cable you can connect it to your computer and then use the computer to route MIDI from the piano to the Zero.
It might require some configuration on the Zero but I think I can find the resources to do that.
Yep.. the link is borked (try this), but what you're describing should work.
It's really kinda stupid. It would take VERY little extra hardware (this is basically the same hardware) to add Audio In/Out over USB, but hardly anyone does it.
So it can be done, but it would be easiest to do it without using MIDI. Use a Sonoff outlet, and put the app on the tablet. Assuming it's wall powered, anyway.
If it's USB powered, you can just leave it plugged in, and if it stays on when the computer is off (and you don't want that), edit the computer's power settings so that it turns off the USB power when it shuts down. I know this can be done in Windows via the USB driver - not sure how Macs handle USB power.
it transmits MIDI over the USB cable as well as the 5-PIN MIDI outputs. So you can just use any old USB A to B cable to connect it to your PC and get MIDI in and out. No need for anything fancy.
ex: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
All of the other posts are correct. What everyone hasn't said yet is you need a USB 'B' to USB 'A' cable - same as used for most USB printers.
I've got an Iphone SE iOS 14.4 - Any chance I can use the headphone jack to send midi messages with this sort of converter?
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M Audio Keystation Mini 32 MK3 | Ultra Portable Mini USB MIDI Keyboard Controller With ProTools First | M Audio Edition and Xpand 2 by AIR Music Tech https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBNNF23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_GH09Fb1E5WR4M is this one good? I just got started using fl studio
I'll second /r/SlyDogKey.. that Midiplus MiniEngine is a good choice, and not too expensive. But if you have any iOS device - iPhone or iPad - GarageBand is free, and it works well. There are many free and inexpensive piano apps in the AppStorej, too.
You didn't say which MIDI keyboard you have, but either way you'll need a 'camera connection kit' to connect it to an iOS device. Pay a little extra and get the one with USB and charging ports, so you can power it at the same time. The link is a third party adapter on Amazon, because I couldn't find the regular Lightning to Lighting one in Apple's store.
If you go this way, connect the adapter to the iOS device FIRST, then connect the keyboard. You might not have the same issue I do, but if I connect all the USB cables first, then connect to the iPad, iOS refuses to recognize the adapter. If the keyboard has it's own power (not USB powered), make sure that's plugged in before connecting as well.
It is rare for a midi interface on a piano or keyboard to fail, but they can. I have a midi controller that has a failed midi in so I can no longer program it. I know you don't want to keep spending money (can you still return one of the interfaces you bought from Amazon?) , but the least expensive method of finding out if the midi out works is to get a set of 5-pin midi cables and attach your Casio to the Adagio. I have a set of these cables, don't let the price fool you, they work just fine! https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MID-203-5-Pin-Cable-Meters/dp/B000068NUW/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=5+pin+midi+cable&qid=1608039659&sr=8-12 The Casio will receive midi on all 16 channels. Make sure you have the Chord Judge turned off, page E-38 in the manual. The Navigate Channel defaults to midi channel 4 and can be set to channels 1-8. This will display the received notes on that channel on the keyboard guide panel of the Casio. It does not effect the midi in, you still receive on all 16 channels. It only effects which channel data is displayed on the keyboard guide.
I have seen both types of graphite pad - graphite only on the pad/button and plain copper for it's contact on the PC board, and graphite on the key and coating the copper. I have never had the graphite come off when cleaning with alcohol - it would be pretty obvious on a white cotton swab (Q-tip).
While researching to find more information (zero info says alcohol is not safe), I found a commercial product for treating conductive pads. DISCLAIMER: I have no idea if it works, has any negative effects, etc.: Do Your Own Research.
Also saw a post by someone that claims using graphite from a soft artists charcoal works on game controllers and remotes. They scraped it off into a fine powder, then used a small paint brush to apply it to the surface - no adhesive of any kind. I cannot recommend this. Even if it works, you run the risk of loose graphite flying around inside your electronics - never a good idea.
Are the pads made of copper though?
Normally there is a type of graphite paint deposited on the board where the pads make contact. The pads themselves have a special graphite coating too.
Alcohol has been known to dissolve the graphite, making the problem worse.
couple of links I made before realising my pads were fine
https://www.keypadrepairkit.net/
so just be aware the problem really is dirty pads before going at them with solvents as you might end up making them worse.
If you're talking about a cable like this then I would think that would work fine. Even though it has two midi cables coming out, you would just plug the "in" cable to the midi out port on your keyboard.
I've been using Perfect Piano for a couple of weeks now, and I love it:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamestar.perfectpiano
Works with USB and Bluetooth MIDI controllers, and in addition to piano, has about 40 instruments, and you can record your playing and export MIDI files. On top of all that, Perfect Piano has learning and game modes.
I didn't know that that was all the power that usb could put out, so that removes it as an option. Yeah, I think if someone has a lot of pedals and multi pedal adapters around, it could at least cut down on wall warts. But even that is using the power plug as opposed to the midi to deliver power.
The question to answer now is whether the $14 adapters like this (https://www.amazon.com/FORE-Interface-Connecting-Synthesizer-Recording/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=kw9u.ZhEwl-fds72bV9xZg&hsa_cr_id=4453088550801&pd_rd_r=13cf0e53-ef7d-47cb-abe7-e79747914916&pd_rd_w=3v817&pd_rd_wg=qXtId&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_title) are as good as the $40 Roland.
Sounds like dirty pots.. Did you buy the Nektar used? It's obvious you don't want to return it or have Nektar fix it, so..
You can try a can of contact cleaner. The one in the link is very popular with guitarists for removing the crunch from their volume and tone pots. This stuff can potentially mar plastic, depending on the brand.
You'll want to remove the knobs and maybe tape off around the fader slot. Then stick the spray tube in the slot as much as possible - don't force it in there, and don't spray a lot. Move the slider all the way to one end, give a quick spray along the whole thing. Then move it to the other end and spritz it again. Slide the fader back and forth a few times. Repeat for the other faders. It might not get all of the noise out of all of them, but they should be a lot better.
It might last a year, or one or more might get worse again next week, but that can should last a long time, so just do it again. Eventually, either a slider will stop working, or the contact cleaner will stop helping. Hopefully that's a long time in the future.
If you want to stay Yamaha, the PSS A50 at least has keyboard velocity.
I would rather buy a Novation Launchkey 37 if you intend to stick to 37 keys.
If you have cash limitations you can go MIDIPLUS Origin 37.
The Novation and the MIDIPLUS solutions are MIDI-only. They don't have internal sound generators.
>and normal keys?
Pay attention people! Neither the Axiom Mini 32 nor the Launchkey mini have regular size keys.
IK Multimedia makes the iRig Keys 2 Pro - Full size keys and a full three octaves. The Novation Launchkey 37 Mk3 also has full size keys, and is great for integration with Ableton Live. It does have pads you can use for drums as well. I thought Arturia made one with 32 keys, but I can't find it now.
/r/flz1 is mostly correct. The Hammer 88 doesn't have an input that uses a TRS jack (Tip-Ring-Sleeve - like a stereo headphone jack), so only two pedals of the the multi pedal you linked would actually work. You have the Sustain pedal jack with a single TS connection. I have this pedal from M-Audio that I use on all my MIDI controllers, and it'll work perfect for you as well.
The documents for the Hammer 88 say that the second foot switch is set to Soft, or Sostenuto, by default, but you can change it to anything you like. You can use another SP-2 pedal I linked, or you might be able to find a two-pedal version. M-Audio and Studiologic used to make a dual, but I can't seem to find one for sale.
You also might want an expression pedal for the third jack, EXP. M-Audio makes one of those as well.
Just get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-Tbox-Interfaces-MIDI-USB/dp/B00WU6FKSO/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=midisport&qid=1597290730&sr=8-5
Literally just need a 5pin to usb converter. I have an old midi sport 2x2. You can usually find them for cheap on OfferUp or craigslist as well.
Yep.. it's an Ethernet jack.. Probably what is most commonly called a dock. They'll have more than just USB ports. Usually video (HDMI, DisplayPort), Ethernet, sometimes a micro/SD card interface, maybe audio jacks.
Anker makes a few good ones. Scroll down to see a comparison of several.
My Motorola Roadster 2 was awesome. Worked well, great audio, and I was devastated when I left mine in a rental car a few years back, cuz they ain't cheap! I hemmed and hawed over spending the $70-80 for another one just long enough to get a car that had Bluetooth built in.
If you don't want to pay that much, the older Jabra Cruiser was almost as good. Not sure about this new one.
This is on Amazon UK, but you get the idea. It should come with a USB cable which you can use to set it up with Logic.
How important are weighted keys for you? I haven't seen them in midi controllers terribly often. Here's one from Amazon that's semiweighted
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-MPK249-Semi-Weighted-Workstations/dp/B00IJ7FGSC
No worries!
I googled your keyboard and see it just has the traditional style MIDI plugs, and no MIDI via USB built in. But that’s ok! All you need to do is get a MIDI interface. I found this on Amazon for around $15:
USB IN-OUT MIDI Cable Converter, LiDiVi Professional Piano Keyboard to PC/Laptop/Mac MIDI Adapter Cord for Home Music Studio - 6.5Ft
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KLC884/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZtUfEbTKFTGQ5
I don’t have any experience with this specific product, but it would seem to do all you want, for using your keyboard as a MIDI controller (there are more fancier types of interfaces, but no need for overkill for now, I reckon). You’ll also need a USB A -> USB C dongle to plug this into your new MacBook Pro (you probably already have some of these to attach older USB devices anyway).
Once attached, you should see your keyboard available as a MIDI controller inside software like Garage Band or Logic. Then you can select the virtual instruments inside the software and play notes using your Yamaha (you’ll want to mute the internal speakers of the keyboard, of course) and hear the music on your computer. (You might need to use the MIDI Setup utility inside the Utility folder (inside Applications) if your keyboard doesn’t automatically show up in software.)
Hope this helps, and best wishes to you on your journey of creativity and expression!
If that's the case, spend the money and just get 1x USB -> MIDI interface that has female plugs on it. Plug the Male goes right into it. Don't know specifics on this product, it was the first Google hit.
Thanks for the advice!
My bad- the cable isn't 3.0. The cable is this one and I found it in recommendations from other musicians using my same piano. I tried another generic one as well.
I think the problem is that the drivers aren't updated for High Sierra. Some more searching seems to indicate they stopped at 10.12 or 10.13.
I still can't find the driver, though- the Preference Panes folder is also empty.
My first keyboard was an I61 (https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-i61-MIDI-Keyboard-controller/dp/B00WU6H78A) But I guess in your case I would buy the cheapest one. Especially if you are using a DAW, I don't think you will be having a problem with not enough keys.
I got a MIDIplus AK490 off of amazon. There might be better options, but this one works good enough for me. You might have different preferences, so you should probably check other options before you buy.
You definitely connect the keyboard to the computer via USB. If you're on Windows (which I assume by your mention of "pc") then first of all you need ASIO drivers to get any kind of decent low latency performance. As far as I know, any decent audio interface that works for Windows will include appropriate ASIO drivers but there may very well be drivers available for the built-in hardware. Do a search for Windows ASIO drivers. And yes, you should be able to use a hub, but get a decent powered hub. I've had great success with Anker hubs which I use to power 5 MIDI controllers, an audio interface as well as several iPads. See for example https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84
midi is a serial interface, meaning that evens are discrete. NOTHING happens simultaneously.
You should read this book: http://www.amazon.com/MIDI-For-Professional-Paul-Lehrman/dp/0825613744
it's cheap as balls ($0.77)
I read this in about a week in my spare time and I pretty much know everything there is to know about midi. I suggest it to all teh noobs.
http://www.amazon.com/MIDI-For-Professional-Paul-Lehrman/dp/0825613744