What are
/r/octoprint's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/octoprint:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/octoprint:
motionEyeOS
IFTTT
Win32 Disk Imager
balenaEtcher
Cults.
PrusaSlicer
BackupPC
Dark Reader
Yodeck
OctoPrint
PuTTY
DD-WRT
hastebin
Raspberry Pi OS
Snapcraft
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/octoprint:
IP Webcam
RasPi Check
Pi SD Card Imager
The most popular reviews in /r/octoprint:
I believe he gave you the wrong link. MotionEye is the name of the web front end MotionEyeOS is a raspberry pi install with MotinEye on it. https://github.com/ccrisan/motioneyeos/wiki It's like octoprint vs octopi.
Anyway I have been using motion eye for awhile. I use it to stream two cameras from the printer at all times, and offload the video encoding from my printers pi. You can then simply give octoprint a web address to the camera and it shows up like normal.
I have not played with it but I believe it has built in video recording.
If using a RaspberryPi for Octoprint you can use this power strip to keep continuous power your Pi and toggle the power to one of the "Normally Off" outlet that the printer is plugged into by running two wires from GPIO pins to the strip.
I know its not what youre asking but i got the TP-Link HS100 to work just fine. Fairly easy installation from the Kasa App and then youre good to go adding them on octopi.
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The order that things get turned on or shut down doesn't really matter. Just make sure you always shut down the Pi properly before turning it off. Or, leave it on 24/7: It doesn't use much power and no harm will come of it by running forever. (Bonus: If you leave it on, you can plug the printer into a smart outlet and have Octoprint turn the printer on and off for you automatically.)
Even a Pi 3 (all of which come with 1GB of RAM) is overkill for Octoprint: It's just not very memory-hungry, generally-speaking, in modern-computing terms. And sending serial data to a printer (which itself is powered by the equivalent of an Arduino) isn't an arduous task for a quad-core ARM machine.
I just checked one of mine and it's using less than 400MB of RAM. So if you have a better use for the 8GB Pi 4, then... use it for that instead, I guess?
If wifi works for you, then sure: Use it. Pis generally don't have the best antenna (it's a quite excellent antenna for its size, but that size is very, very small), but if it works then it works. That said: As a rule, if I can easily plug a thing into the network instead of use wifi, then I always plug that thing in, just to keep the wireless network maximally-available for things that cannot be plugged in.
And definitely block the 5V line on the USB cable. It causes issues. I usually cut open the cable and clip a section out of the red wire, but some others like to tape up the 5V contact on one of the USB connectors, and still others use a device like this to block power.
Found this in another thread here - buy this cord, put it between your Octopi and the printer, leave it in the 'Off' position, problem solved. $7 fix.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTJZD99/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was lucky and got a usb extension cable that when turned off, power doesn't get sent to the ender, yet data does. Here is the usb cable I got:
I originally bought it to use as an on/off switch for octopi but installed a switch instead and now use it to keep the display off. Just remember to keep the rocker "off".
I was able to get it working. In case anyone else is trying to do the same:
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Install the TemperatureFailsafe plugin for Octoprint.
Create a New Applet in IFTTT that connects a webook to your outlet.
Set up the temperature failsafe plugin to call your webook. Screenshot below.
You can get your key at https://ifttt.com/services/maker_webhooks/settings
​
​
I had undervoltage problems like you that didn't go away until I bought and actual pi power supply. I purchased this one from Amazon. It states that it puts out 5.25 volts, which is slightly higher than the 5 volts of a standard USB charger, although I don't know if that's the reason why it solved my undervolt issues.
Posted in the linked sub by u/grillinmuffins:
Download it for $2 on cults https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/pi-touch-case
Yeah it's not free, but I spent serious time on it and am willing to fix any legitimate issues with the model, so let me know!
Using a Raspberry Pi 4b, Pi Cam 2.1, and the Pi Touch Screen 7" Printed on Prusa Mk3s at 0.15 layer height
I'd like to say I'm surprised but that would be a lie...
https://nakedsecurity.sophos.com/2018/09/06/thousands-of-unsecured-3d-printers-discovered-online/
I’m using one of these and two wires hooked to GPIO pins.
Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7Y8M276J3YT01XF7PGHR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The extra wires present in USB 3 are just data, not power. The 5V line is in the same place for all of the normal variations of the USB A connector.
I'm guessing that /u/specimen12 got the tape wrong somehow.
(and since I summoned him: check this thing out. https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-USB-Power-Blocker-Only/dp/B08VHDKCX3. It's cheap and does not involve wrangling bits of tape that are inside of holes.)
Sonoff s31 plus you will get a detailed power consumption https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YXVWC3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_0VB54F054M78DRY2EDZ1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 You can also go the basic way and build a switch on the power cable https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0795F7C65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_H6W16Y8MM9J1Q4F93RJZ
You planning to use Octolapse? DSLR usually gives the best possible quality, but if 1080P is OK you can get great results with something like a Logitech C920 (setup is easier too).
Lighting is SUPER important, and is often overlooked. I'd recommend looking for a photography LED array. Something like this would work very well as it has both adjustable brightness and color temperature.
Note that some LEDs have PWM at a very low frequency that can lead to flicker in your final video. The ones I linked to do not have this problem, but lots of common LED strip lights do.
Be sure to follow the Octolapse guides (the official guides on the WIKI) for getting custom image preferences working if you're using a webcam, and in all cases use manual everything (focus, white balance, exposure, etc...).
Good luck!
What a great idea!
You could keep the phone connected to a charger the entire time and mount it via a desk mount (example in the link below)
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https://www.amazon.com/Aduro-Solid-Grip-Phone-Holder-Desk/dp/B01HDZJ1WM
I just got a few of these to remotely turn on/off the whole setup: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XL3DRD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I can use google assistant as well to turn on/off lights, printer, and octopi.
For those reading this: The original splitter i used was this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098SVSDYW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Turns out, even tho it says its a powered otg splitter, this one does not work. I ended up using an old "MOKIN" brand usb c hub that I had laying around -- it works great with the TCL 20xe mentioned above (Printing with it as I type <3)
I use this one. It’s cheap and great for making Timelapse videos of prints. It’s a odd size but I have a mount to use on a ender 3 I made.
Arducam Lens Board OV5647 Sensor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JTY8WY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm using this one: Beelink U59 Pro
Only caveat I've had is Linux seems to have some issues with keeping the WiFi from going to sleep if you're using it headless (even with some various fixes I've tried) so I have it wired to ethernet.
No that would only be 1 second of fun:)
Below is an example of otg cable with power and data.
for my samsung 30 pin connector i had to make it my own.
so if u have usb micro then ur lucky and should get one of those.
otherwise buy a single one and cut it in half and place a cord with maleplug to it.
I tried with an S7. I discovered that this particular phone doesn't want to work with a power OTG cable.
I also couldn't get the camera to stream.
Worst of all, the connection to the phone kept cutting out, ruining the print. I stopped trying with the S7.
Did you check whether octopi is showing in your metwork? Either in your router's setting or by using an app like Network Analyzer (play store )
I have been looking into this one for myself:
https://www.amazon.com/Libre-Computer-AML-S905X-CC-Potato-64-bit/dp/B074P6BNGZ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=W1YORUCFCMWR&keywords=odroid%2Bc4&qid=1666567852&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjA3IiwicXNhIjoiMS43OCIsInFzcCI6IjEuNTAifQ%3D%3D&s=electronics&sprefix=odroid%2Bc4%2Celectronics%2C99&sr=1-4&th=1
The specs on it are better than the R PI 3B+, which runs Octoprint just fine.
I have my printer close to my computer so I just run octoprint in a WSL2 instance. A bit annoying having to attach the COM port to the instance but much less annoying than dealing with python on windows.
For future I'm planning on ordering Le Potato, should run octoprint just fine.
Sometimes less is more. I got caught up in having a really BIG SD CARD, and struggled. When I went with a more modest 32GB things started to work.
Here is an Amazon link for 4 (I think) 32GB SD cards. It never hurts to have spares, and I use the latest Macrium to backup the final result :-).
Honestly, you're better off finding an OTG cable that lets you charge and connect data at the same time.
Here is a little box i made for a 4-channel relay board to connect the USB wires to
LINK to AMAZON board: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NSORY/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I also made a version that has screwholes to attach to the steel printer frame. I just bought a 5 pack of usb cables and tore the microUSB side of 2 off and the USB-A side off another. Its currently printing and the relay board comes tomorrow. There is also a basic lid that I dont have pictured. If you have any other suggestions, feel free to let me know. Once I get everything hooked up and working, i will post it on thingiverse.com and printables.com as well
I used this relay to build an LED light module for my printer that's controlled by GPIO pins. Could you use this to switch the D+ and D- USB lines between the two inputs?
I picked up some of these for a similar project. They have a USB out on them, so I could just use a USB rather than playing with the pins. But my idea was to power the enclosure separate from the printer. That way, I could have lights on and the printer unplugged while I was working on it. And there are a lot of times, I may be working on the Pi but have the printer powered down.
Since pretty much any camera should work, might save a few bucks and try this one unless someone can tell me not to. Free returns are always appealing. LOL
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Was just wondering if something cheap like this https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Rotatable-Computer-Conferencing-Streaming/dp/B08VJ25PL1/ref=sr_1_24?keywords=webcam+1080p&qid=1661441020&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_36%3A-7000&rnid=386442011&rps=1&s=pc&sprefix=webcam+%2Ccomputers%2C93&sr=1-24 would work well enough and be an improvement. The trouble is that there are just so many webcam options out there, it is really hard to know which ones are good and which ones are just pure crap. LOL
I was able to with this. and my old Samsung tablet. Too bad I've had recent issues with Octa4a overheating and shutting down ..
No, the only plugin is Octoprint-IFTTT. By default, Octoprint broadcasts several "web hook events" or basically a little blocks of data about your print status. That just happens in the background but you need to be listening for the events to do something about it. PrintStarted, PrintDone, PrintFailed are all events that are fired in the background of Octoprint. There are also events that are fire based off of the gcode, and when an M600, M701 or M702 is sent to the printer, Octoprint will fire a corresponding FilamentChange event.
So those events are fired silently, but the Octoprint-IFTTT plugin can listen for events and send that message to IFTTT.com. then on IFTTT you have to setup a webhook integration to do something when it receives that message. I have it send a notification alert to the IFTTT app. You can check out all of OctoPrint's web hook events here: https://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/events/index.html
It may be a limitation of the Octo4a app that it only supports the internal cameras.
You could try another webcam streaming app such as 'IP Webcam' or 'OctoCam for OctoPrint', and see if they allow you to change the camera to the C920.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pas.webcam
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.crysxd.octocam
MOSWAG USB C OTG Adapter USB Type C Splitter with USB C Female and USB A Female Compatible with Chromecast with Google TV/Samsung S21 S20 S20+ Ultra/Google Pixel 5 4 4 XL 3 3 XL/LG V40 V30 G6 G8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y6VQN99/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M6JECC5FEFGM7G0AMY8P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure what OS. The last one LG rolled out. You have to try plugging things in in different orders. I think the printer gets plugged in last.
This is the USB Hub I bought, I don't see anywhere to power it but I'm surprised it would be underpowered since it was made for the Pi Zero. The youtube video I watched for setting up Octoprint said it would work, and that was the one he left in the description.
CASOLU USB C/Type C to HDMI Adapter, Thumderbolt 3 to HDMI 4K Adapter, USB-C Digital AV Multiport Adapter for Mac/ MacBook/iPad Pro/ S20/S10+/Projector with USB 3.0 Port and PD Quick Charging Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7PD8TR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_R5CMEQY41AF0XR2DMK9X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I bought.
Replace the cable. I had the same issue. I tired 4 diff ones. So I bought this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJBVVXR/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_VKJXAXJJSN4DRVTCXPMD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
70c seems hot, my rpi 4 is usually around 50-55c in my enclosure that is around 45c.
i do have a heatsink case on it.
its like this
Could also use a Raspberry Pi 400 it's just a pi 4 in a keyboard.
Looks like there is a port of Debian so you should be able to install octoprint on the atomic pi.
Here's my Update:
I ordered this USB C OTG Adapter on Saturday and I picked up a used the Pixel 3 XL today and installed Octo4a. The setup works great! The phone charges while connected to my Ender 3D Pro.
- The adapter connects to the Pixel via USB-C.
- I'm using one of my GoPro USB-C charging wires to power/charge the Pixel, with the USB end plugged into an Apple charger and the USB-C end plugged into the OTG adapter's charging port.
- From the USB 3.0 port on the adapter I have a wire going to the 3D printer. I have a crap ton of USB to Micro USB wires in a box. Apparently some of them support OTG while many of them do not. I had to try 3 or 4 wires before it worked.
I think the key is, the wire going from USB 3.0 port on the adapter to the 3D printer has to support OTG. Octo4a even says "connect your printer using an OTG cable."
USB-C docks wouldn't work for me either. These did work, how's however: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VQFQ2H2
Just need a micro USB to USB-C adapter. You can get a pack of those for dirt cheap on Amazon.
Seems like a driver issue, either search for some drivers(although many people seem to have issued with a quick Google search for your specific dongle)
Other option is getting a raspberry pi specific WiFi dongle
E.g:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JZFT3VS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_P4VRPQA74QAJP73KD72S
Not familiar with that model, but if you notice flicker even after turning off auto white balance, suspect the LEDs and not the camera.
I have [something similar to these](https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/], though mine were quite a bit cheaper.
I mean, I keep checking the battery and it’s warm but not hot so IDK?!? All the regular USB chargers I had would charge the phone fine but when you started sending data the charge started dropping and the battery % started going down. I bought this
because it’s higher wattage. And so far (just got it today) the battery charge is going up during a print albeit slowly. As long as it’s going up and not down I don’t need to keep the phone on a charger all the time. I can turn the whole rig off with my WiFi outlet and when I want to start a print I can just turn everything on and even though the battery will be at like 1% it will slowly and steadily charge and I can print without worrying about it and without having the phone on a charger 24/7
I've seen pi zero 2s on pimoroni... bought one a few weeks ago. They appear out right now but they seem to have better stock. Mine shipped from the UK. Seems they also have pi 400s which could be an option. Might also check out some of the clones like odroid stuff or this orange pi:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09M413HR5/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=APISWSAHKR1AT&psc=1
Here is an adapter that appears to do the same thing for the lazy or the folks with bad taping skills:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094FYL9QT?psc=1&smid=A3M1K9LXDRB6PN&ref\_=chk\_typ\_imgToDp
Not as such - I just ended up getting a cheap temp/humidity device that shows it on an LCD screen and has a magnet mount and mounted it using a small piece of metal on the outside of the enclosure. That way it's in-frame for the octoprint webcam, which is good enough for me.
I've had a similar problem just recently. The camera is now completely kaput and only outputs blank black images now. Tried everything but nothing makes a difference.
It was this camera for me
Left it on for a day doing a print, worked OK. Then started like yours, and just kept getting worse.
It could be noise or interference as others have pointed out - but it could equally be a broken camera.
300Mbps USB WiFi Adapter, LOTEKOO Wireless LAN Network Card Adapter WiFi Dongle for Desktop Laptop PC Windows 10 8 7 XP MAC OS (Plug-and-Play for Windows10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y24GDR8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_9JJG2ERBVZJMA37P4VZM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
When you look under Connection, then Serial Port (Default is set to Auto) what other options you have? any of them have "Octo4a" at the end of it?
I had a similar problem before and it was the OTG cable, it worked with some but failed to connect to Printer.
This is the cable I am using now
https://www.amazon.com/Leagway-Adapter-Charging-Connector-Android/dp/B075GFY7BG/
If you have access to another OTG I recommend trying that.
These are the best price to performance ratio cards I've found. Until A3 cards are released this is what I buy for SBCs. Also sorry for this mess of a link. I'm on my phone.
SanDisk 64GB Extreme microSDXC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter - Up to 160MB/s, C10, U3, V30, 4K, A2, Micro SD - SDSQXA2-064G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCMBLV6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_MEFVMZJVXNWKPT9VMZ1Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not the person you asked, but mine runs 24/7 as well. I swapped out whatever shit fan came with the kit I bought for one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA/
It's perfectly silent now.
Doesn't matter which settings it overheats withing a minute or two, I think it records the same, but than encodes with different frame rate. As per the adapter here is the link
Something like this would work, correct? Mini USB Cable[2-Pack 3.3ft+6.6ft], JSAUX USB 2.0 A to Mini B Cable Charging Cord Compatible with Ti-84 Plus CE Graphing Calculators, PS3 Controller, Digital Camera, GPS Receiver, Dash Cam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L71FQDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RV5PSQYSRX89GH4YDMNR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have some usb extenders over ethernet. They don't require the device try have drivers, but I'm not sure if the serial connection would work. If I can find my spare I'll give it a try. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/
i use one of these.
the blue usb cable that came with the printer melted from getting too hot in the enclosure.
i got one with a ferrite core and gold ends.
If you are saying that you have a network cable leading into that room, this could work. I've never tested it with a 3d printer, but I have used something like this before. Basically it uses a network cable to create an extension cord.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC
This doesn't do anything over IP - it's a "dumb" converter, meaning it adapts the USB pins to RJ45 pins. But might be what you're looking for.
This is the touchscreen I use without any issues. It’s gone up in price like $25 in the past year.
Raspberry Pi 7" Touch Screen Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153R2A9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FBPCJHMSRZBYXQM8P7VZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just installed one for my Ender 3 Max. I bought the Pi Zero 2 W from MicroCenter plus a $3 micro sd card so the whole thing was like $20. Then when I got it, I realized I needed a micro usb to micro usb cable to connect it to the printer (bought a micro usb/male USB instead from Amazon).
For the power supply, I have a wall charger (the one that has 8 sockets and 4 USB ports that you plug into the wall outlet) and that works to power the Pi just fine. I don’t have a camera connected though so I don’t know if it’ll work with that.
the screen im using is this with drivers downloaded from their website here https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/3.5inch_RPi_LCD_(A)
im using the latest version of octoprint installed with the raspberrypi installer.
The inverted touch also happens when i install and run desktop on the pi but I have not tried a stock image outside of octoprint.
I am modifying the 99-calibration.conf-35-180 file and well as the 99-calibration.conf-35 to see if it helps. They are located in /LCD-show/etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/
I tried finding libinput files or conf files in usr/share/x11/xorg.conf.d like other threads had suggested but I was unable to find any.
When I first ran sudo ./LCD-show I ran it as ./LCD-show 180 in order to flip the screen but it doesnt flip the touch inputs. I tried inverting the axes, changing the calibration, transforming the touch matrix in the SHOULD BE corresponding conf file but none of them have any changes in the touch so at this point Im not sure what conf file the pi even uses.
I saw a guide where someone made a new conf file with the calibration they wanted so I also tried that but it still did not work.
If you see on the waveshare site I linked, there is a guide on touch screen calibration but I was not sure how to do it as it said "Click the menu button on the taskbar" and I dont have a taskbar and I cant really touch the touchscreen unless octodash is open (although I have not checked if the desktop mode has the menu it is asking for)
What's your use case for more than 25 fps?
Here is the one I have: Geekworm Raspberry Pi HDMI in Module, HDMI to CSI-2, HDMI inpute Supports up to 1080p25fps Compatible with Raspberry Pi 4B/3B+/3B/Pi Zero/Zero W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0899L6ZXZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_DzJJ8vYeNbxue
I got this one for $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012V1HEP4/
I had an issue where the connector on the board could get disconnected if I installed it weird, but I got past it and I think they would all have that issue.
I also had to modify one of the stls in this stand to install it. https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3407-articulating-raspberry-pi-camera-mount-for-prusa-m I've been procrastinating posting the remix because I could improve the design.
Google Domains says here
> Simple domain management tools > A full set of simple-to-use, robust domain management tools are at your disposal: > > - Set up Dynamic DNS to keep your domain pointing to the same computer even when the IP address changes > - Add and manage resource records: A, AAAA, CNAME, MX, NS, PTR, SOA, SPF, SRV, TXT > - Use Google Synthetic Records for integration with Google App Engine, subdomain forwarding, and G Suite setup > - Add and manage name servers > - Configure TTL > - Domain locking
They do web forwarding (link), so you can forward directly to a port. So you'd have to use their DDNS service to point a domain or sub-domain to your server ip, AND a web forward to point a different domain or sub-domain to that DDNS address (with port assignment).
I use afraid.org for ddns services to get a mysubdomain.mooo.com subdomain (integrates well with Ubiquiti EdgeMax routers), then the cpanel provided by one of my website's webhosts BlueHost does the web forwarding (from a main domain registered by Namespro.ca) to mysubdomain.mooo.com:PORT/. Looks like any cpanel can do the same thing. If I were to do this from scratch then I'd just let afraid.org handle it all.
Actually, one more question, does this seem legit: https://snapcraft.io/install/octoprint-pfs/raspbian
Seems like I can install it as a package via that service.
You need an SSH client in order to do so. I use PuTTY. How were you able to finish the initial setup without connecting to the pie via SSH though? I thought you had to do that before you could get into the octoprint browser interface.
Windows is sensitive over file handles on your removable media. You'll want to ensure that there are no programs trying to use the SD Card. This can happen when seemingly nothing is using the card, I assume Windows is attempting to index the card.
You'll want to try and try again. Look for programs that may be looking at the card, close down any explorer windows showing the card's contents. Restart and try to flash the card before doing anything else. Alternatively you can try using Etcher.
>I don't know whether the simplified graphical tools like etcher can do it in the opposite direction as well
In my early RasPi days I've used https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/
Works both ways!
Still works fine on Win10. It's really weird Etcher doesn't support reading from a physical drive.
btw: You can save space compressing* the IMG files if you want to keep a backup that's only as small as it's used space instead of keeping a byte-by-byte copy.
*using WinRAR (haven't tried 7-ZIP in years because RAR5 was faster on my old PC)
This is the camera. It came with a case that I used for a proof of concept test fit before I printed the case and came up with my own mounting solution.
Case is 3D printed off of thingiverse and the mount was purchased off of Amazon.
octoapp. It's pretty, and supports OctoEverywhere so it will switch between local and network automatically. Wish it had a bit more functionality, but he does update it regularly
I bought this camera: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00N1YJKFS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's working out quite well, but still needs the ribbon cable that I've had to route under the printer (camera is mounted to the bed). I'm using it for timelapse, or I'd have mounted it in a more static location.
That smart plug is a must! I love the auto-off, especially when a print finishes in the early hours of the morning. It's piece of mind. I have the pi powered seperatley, so that I'm not shutting it off other plugin allows my to use OctoPrint to turn the printer on remotely too)
This is the plug I use: Kasa Smart Plug by TP-Link... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079B7SHD8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That fan hat goes over this heatsink really well.
Together they cool almost as well as the Ice Tower Coolers. And it has a power button with a no-hassle install script. And cool LED light tachometer for the fan.
It's kind of the perfect Raspberry PI 4 cooling solution... and I've tested a lot of Raspberry Pi 4 cooling solutions... (my alter-ego has a youtube channel where I do that stuff).
This is what I use. No issues ever. Script keeps temps in control. And pretty cheap.
Argon Fan HAT for Raspberry Pi 4 Model B and Raspberry Pi 3 Model B | 40mm Raspberry Pi Fan with Power Button | PWM and Software Controllable | Easy Setup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y9LFP1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R6GBEHQCHPSJD2FJW7K3
I bought one of these to use a spare HDMI cable so I could set up my RPi outside my enclosure: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNBM63/ RPi camera ribbon to HDMI thingy. I then use two short ribbon cables between camera/adapter and adapter/RPi.
Yes, you need one HAT per Pi.
I've used these instead of the official POE hats. You save a fair bit of money over the RPi Foundation ones, and I haven't really had any issues.
The advantage is that you only run one CAT6 cable to each Pi, and it supplies network connectivity and power. Then you don't have to worry about setting up any wpa_supplicant files ahead of time, or anything-- you'll just get an IP address automatically. You also don't have to worry about sourcing an appropriate-length power cord: you just need a CAT6 cable of the right length, which IMO is easier to either source or make.
I'm running 5 OctoPrint instances on Pi's with PoE HATs, 3 other SBCs with PoE splitters or HATs, and then all of my home automation hubs have PoE splitters, as well. I have a 48-port switch in my home that has 32 PoE-enabled ports, so that means I don't have to figure out where to find 10 AC outlets for wall-wart AC adapters when I use PoE.
Right-- you don't need power supplies for the Pi's to run in day to day usage. You might want to have at least 1 around just in case you need to test and don't have a network connection, of course.
This is the HAT I said I've used, but really any of the ones with good ratings on Amazon will work, too:
I've had good luck with Netgear stuff when I'm on a budget but still want something that's not bottom of the barrel:
But really, any well-known brand (TP-Link, Netgear, etc) between $40-50US is probably going to be just fine. Unmanaged switches are basically commodity at this point.
I had a similar problem on my RPi 4B. No matter how much I cranked up the voltage, I'd still get the undervolt error.
I solved this by using a LM2596 DC/DC buck converter to convert the 24VDC to 5.2VDC and thicker gauge wires soldered directly to the 5VDC GPIO pins on the board.
Initially, I was using cheap/thin plugboard wires from the supply plugged into the RPi GPIO power pins and it still was giving me that error. Once I switched to thicker gauge wire, the undervolt problems disappeared.
The thicker wires are important since thinner wires have higher DC resistance and won't be able to carry enough current that the RPi needs during high loads.
I would expect that sc card to be plenty sufficient, but they're cheap enough that it might be worth trying another. I like the sandisk ultras https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073K14CVB
There's a resource monitor plug in for octoprint, might be worth grabbing to see how things are looking in that regard. If the processor, ram, sd card, and network adapter are barely being used then it's likely not a hardware issue.
What slicer are you using?
This issue comes up from time to time, check out this thread, especially the top comment by robbob and any about usb buffer size.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ase533/octoprint_quality_issues/
I threw the heatsinks on the Pi that came with it. I did tape off that power pin to stop the display on my printer from being on all the time as well. I have not tried a different SD card yet. I am currently using the one that came with this bundle: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BCC8PK7
I am currently running a print that had this blob issue earlier on Octoprint. It's not done, but it's a good ways in and comparing it with the same spots on the Octoprint one from earlier, the one printing from the SD card directly is looking flawless and not showing any issues.
What's your environment like, recently warmer than before? Are the Pis overheating and thermal throttling?
If you don't have any heat sinks or run the Pi in an enclosed space, it can raise the temperature enough that the Pi will reduce it's operating frequency, which could cause a lag in the video processing. Use a tool like RasPi Check to monitor the Pi for frequency dips and heat issues.
I just received/deployed this kit today:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QQ5KY1J (had a $15 coupon when i ordered)
I used Rufus to flash the OctoPi .img to the included microsd card it was all good to go.
This is the one I have. It is more than sufficient, cheaper, and doesn't have a bunch of extra fluff(beyond power cord, a couple heatsinks, and some TIM)
At the moment, I can't think of a way to resolve your lack of remote viewing. What I would recommend is using a wifi controlled power plug.. I use one for the printer and one for the Pi. If you loose connection to the Pi, you can reboot it remotely using the power plug and if you have a problem with the printer, you can kill power to it immediately.
The RPI does not connect via microUSB. It connects via USB A and USB B, like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
The USB C is for power only. There should not be a USB micro B on your RPI 4.
I use a cheap adjustable buck converter from Amazon to provide 5V on one of my printers. It powers a bunch of RGB LEDs.
It seems reliable enough, in that it's been driving these LEDs 24x7 for over a year. I looked at the output on a scope once and I recall the noise being fairly insignificant.
Lots of people use these, or similar, to power Pi's.
Here's what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQJ2GD6
I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V2Q9BZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best thing I ever purchased for the PI camera...
I use one of these for my setup (paired with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JV4Z7K so I can adjust the focus) and it works great.
Note: I also got a pair of IR LED's but they aren't physically compatible with the camera I got, so be aware.)
Did your sensor include a molded plastic case, or is that what you printed? Mine has a white molded case.
I saw the same issue, with feeding filament backwards. I bent the end of the metal switch arm, to guide the filament over it. But the filament can still jam inside the molded plastic housing, due to it being designed to feed from 1 direction.
I did not see an obvious printable housing for my switch. I should sit down and design one, but for the moment, I'm hoping for the best.
My sensor: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FSXFPLD
That's really strange, what kind of tape are you using? I use blue painters tape and it's been rock solid. Is the cable you're using USB 2.0 for sure? I could see a 3.0 messing things up. While I haven't tried it, you could print a power pin blocker, might have more luck with that
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3044586
There's also data only cables that should work, but I haven't tested that out https://smile.amazon.com/Data-Only-Audiophile-USB-Ungrounded/dp/B00WFF5FZS
When I started messing around with a Cooler Tricked Out setup I heard a bunch of folks say that going through USB power was a lot safer; I ended up grabbing one of these 24V-to-USB converters and using it to power the Pi; It can supply 3A pretty reliably and that seems to be good enough to keep the Pi humming. A lot of the cheaper buck converters are only rated for 2A or so, and I suspected it'd be starved for voltage.
Using that USB converter I haven't had any undervoltage issues even during long hot prints, and I tweaked someone else's Thingiverse design to make a nice case. I can't give many _comparisons_ since I didn't try the naked LM2596 route, but I can say that going the USB route has worked really smoothly.
I'll throw my 2 cents in.
Buy a TpLink Kasa KP115 smart plug from Amazon Here: Link
Bonus Feature: Also does power monitoring so you can see your power usage directly in Octoprint.
Then Download this plugin: TPLink Smartplug
Setup the plug via the Kasa app and then plug your printer into it.
To make your life easier assign the plug a static IP address through your router.
Configure the plugin and you're done.
Been using this for a month or so now and has been rock solid. Has a nice safety feature where if there are any errors or over temps it'll automatically turn off your printer so you avoid burning your house down.
yeah, by "negative" you want a "ground" pin, and then a GPIO for positive. You might choose pins 18 and 20, or 6 and 8, because they're next to each other.
A fan like this is not a bad way to get started- they have the right connectors to use on a Raspberry Pi. (There are tons of these listings on amzn/ebay/banggood/etc, I just picked one).