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You can make usable parachutes for low power rockets out of nothing more than tape, dental floss, and trash bags. Mylar blankets work even better than trash bags, and pack just as small or smaller. At slightly larger scales you'll want to move to ripstop nylon for the canopy material. You can purchase ripstop at many fabric stores. It comes in ~60" wide rolls, and you can buy it for around $6 per yard (i.e. 1 yard by 60", NOT 1 square yard). You can find it for cheaper than that online, but unless you're buying half a dozen yards or so, shipping makes it more expensive than buying at a store. You will need to sew the shroud lines onto ripstop, tape is insufficient. If you sew together multiple "gores," you can greatly increase the efficiency of the chute.
That being said, the most economical way to get started is to buy a cheap estes launch set. This will come with a rocket, a launch pad, and an electronic launcher. The rocket will include everything needed, including a parachute. You may have to purchase motors separately. Here's a launch set on amazon for less than $20.
>Reload: $1995
Hardware: $1995 (rental program available)
You'd need about ten of those to get up to orbital velocity...except that I don't think it quite works like that, since the mass of the other nine would need to be accelerated too.
If they did (assuming staging), then: Delta_V = (231 seconds * 32.2ft/s^2)*ln( (81.5lb*20) / 52.3lb) = 25580 ft/s = 102% ISS velocity.
You'd need to build a twenty-stage rocket to get it up to the right velocity with just the motors. You'd have to add significantly more weight for a guidance system, control systems, sensors, etc. Suffice to say it would cost at least $40,000 to get something to go to the right velocity.
It really depends on where you live, but if I had to guess there is probably nothing around as most retired engines end up in museums. If you want to see one in real life I would first check out some museums around, if there are any. Another suggestion that I have is that you look into this book: Rocket Propulsion Elements by George P. Sutton because it pretty much tells you everything you would ever want to know and maybe more.
I'm not the Rpi guy or the individual electronic components guy, but I will tell you that AA's are going to be dramatically less effective for this job than a cheap hobby lipo. They have dramatically higher discharge rates, and while this might not be what you want for your relay, they'll have no problem juicing cluster motors reliably.
You stated you are a complete beginner. We are experienced and are trying to explain to you that you are jumping into the very complicated deep end. It is vitally important for your safety, the safety of those around you as well as the public at large and the hobby in general that the rules be adhered to. There is no need to re-invent the wheel, there is lots of experience available and lots of stuff people have already created. Safely. :)
Our hobby is an enjoyable one, but if not done safely can be extremely dangerous for you and others. It is important to learn the ropes, learn the rules and follow the safety codes. Both NAR and Tripoli have safety codes for a reason. Scratch built motors are a Level 3 thing for a reason. Active stabilization is not allowed. And we have rules from various government agencies we have to follow. Hopefully /u/narprez will chime in as well, he has done some excellent safety talks, is the president of NAR, and is L3 certified.
Join NAR, you get lots of great materials with membership that are useful for the novice and experienced alike. Go to launches and meetings. Talk to the people, especially the certified ones and club members. Do the same with Tripoli. Take your time, study and learn. Read the previously mentioned book. Check out this book too (I don't like it as much as the first one mentioned, but it is still useful, especially for the novice): Handbook of Model Rocketry, 7th Edition (NAR Official Handbook) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0471472425/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_at_ws_us?ie=UTF8
So please, learn to walk before you try to learn ballroom dance. :) In the hobby we (nearly) are all very willing to share what we know and help out.
Awesome! You can definitely do it. I am only 15 and been working with electronics for about 1.5 years. I would defintely start with the basics. Having a deep understanding beforehand is probably the #1 skill. (good book to start with...) There are soo many tutorials and guides out there its crazy! Me personally, I read the book, then I got an Arduino starter kit. Doing things hands on with a breadboard really helps visualize things. Once you get good at that, I would try making a custom Arduino since they have so much documentation.
There are tons of people willing to help. Best of luck hope this helps!
I'm pretty sure the Handbook of Model Rocketry (made by NAR) is pretty good; I have an copy which I've looked at a little bit and it seems pretty thorough in covering the subject. It looks like there's also a kindle version, here's the amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Model-Rocketry-7th-Official/dp/0471472425
What /u/der_innkeeper said, but a*lso...*
As a programmer, take a stab at writing a rocket simulation app. It doesn't need to be complicated. Start with something as simple as "How fast would I have to throw my rocket in the air to reach an altitude of [X] meters?"
Then go launch a rocket with a cheap altimeter. See how high it goes and see what your simulation says, then start iterating on your code. For example, add a field for rocket mass and calculate the kinetic energy it's starting with, then compare that to the actual impulse rating for the motor. Is it accurate?
No, of course not! But... why? How might you make your simulation better?
Tweak your simulation, incorporate some new bit of knowledge about how rockets work (drag forces, thrust curves, nosecone profiles, fin shapes, atmospheric density...?) and go launch again with a different rocket or different motor. Is it accurate? ... rinse and repeat.
You will learn a ton of aeronautic/aerospace theory in this process. You'll also end up with tangible proof of your knowledge and passion for rocketry, which will be worth it's weight in gold when applying for schools or jobs.
This is a common problem -- even a fresh 9V alkaline battery is only barely capable of providing sufficient current to fire the Estes igniters.
The simple solution is to use a lithium 9V battery or a rechargeable 9V battery, both of which are capable of providing greater current.
A better solution is to use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Connector-Plastic-Housing/dp/B0768P78P1
If you happen to have any lithium batteries designed for R/C cars or airplanes you could rig one of those up as well.
>Since a weather balloon only rises at about 12 mph, the speed added to the rocket wouldn't be a lot
Not to mention that 12mph is in the wrong direction - needs to be tangential velocity, not radial, to get into orbit.
Also:
The largest model rocket motor I can find data for is a Class O rocket, which has a maximum impulse of 40960 Newton-seconds. From this page, let's assume a constant mass of 20 kilograms for a very lightweight rocket. Knowing
Impulse = Mass * Delta_V
We can find that Delta_V = (40960 Newton-seconds)/(20kg) = 2048 m/s
So, assuming a phenomenally light rocket with an exceptionally powerful rocket, we find that the maximum velocity attainable from a standstill is 2048 m/s, which is 27% of the ISS orbital velocity. It'll end up being somewhat less than that, since that does not take into account the weight of the fuel of the rocket or the air resistance the rocket would encounter.
EDIT: Above was assuming constant mass to find absolute maximum velocity. With Tsiolkovsky rocket equation for the rocket listed at the first link, find:
Delta_V = (231 seconds * 32.2ft/s^2)*ln( 81.5lb / 52.3lb) = 3300 ft/s = 1006 meters per second
which is about 13% orbital velocity.
Worked it out later: You'd need a twenty-stage rocket with only engines in order to get to the right velocity, which is completely unfeasible.
Get plenty of experience launching commercial motors, and when it comes time to making your own, learn directly from someone with plenty of experience.
If you are the kind of person with the common sense to start by reading the wikipedia pages on the relevant topics, and then to find and read other information that is easily available on the web, and then find an appropriate forum to ask your questions, and then read the archival traffic of that forum before asking questions, and then ask intelligent questions when you do, then there is a good chance you might be up do doing this on your own.
Rocket Men: The Daring Odyssey of Apollo 8 and the Astronauts Who Made Man's First Journey to the Moon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QYYY55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_GGCZ2ZJ3YYX2MYWPW9Q4 This book is amazing and answers a lot of those questions in great detail. Definitely Apollo 8 was the most daring mission with the most unknowns.
You can get audio sirens meant as window alarms that are cheaper and will likely have better range (assuming you're not hard of hearing). Here's a dirt cheap one from Dollar Tree and here's a louder but more expensive one.
The cheap and lazy way to do it:
https://www.amazon.com/MULLSAN-Waterproof-Adhesive-Dresser-Cabinet/dp/B07TCT3QWY/
I've used this on 3-8" salvaged tube cores because it is just so much faster than filling the seam and sealing and priming and painting and all of the sanding that goes along with it. That's my least favorite part of making rockets.
I'd second that. I've built both Estes Alphas and Apogee Apprentices with kids that age. On 1/2A's they get to see the whole thing, but on A8s and B6s they go plenty high. Start small and low and get her excited, then let her pick a more complex kit. You can buy the Estes Alpha kits with everything to fly (except motors and glue). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4B0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_v-SYFbGSFTJGN
Here is a pattern you can cut out of index cardstock/heavy paper and build for no more than $1-2 in supplies at a local craft store (or which you may already have, or can borrow), plus instructions:
You'll still need a launcher, and that could be a significant expense (relative to your $30 budget).
All told, you're probably better off getting this https://www.amazon.ca/Estes-1427-Flying-without-Engines/dp/B003CT4B0G/ which includes everything but the engine for $33 (find something for $2 to get free shipping if you don't have Amazon Prime).
You'll need to share your code to be sure, but your serial output indicates your loop is just running the I2C startup again. Post your void loop() here and let's see what's going on https://hastebin.com/
It actually makes more than just that one. They're just really hard to see. This is the clearest picture I've been able to find. It's the same mach diamond effect that almost all rockets create when in atmosphere.
One of the more exciting methods is to use a ballistic pendulum.
I just used TinkerCAD to design it, and it's very simple (which comes with limitations of course) so you should be able to use it. Hell, even my school's laptops can run it. They can barely even handle Windows 10 and 3 Chrome tabs.
3D printers are a great experimental platform for small rockets! My friend made a great one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:123586 There are tons more on that website too.
But if you want to (later) get into custom rockets, you may want to check out OpenRocket. http://openrocket.sourceforge.net/ Its a great free software to develop rockets in, and has a MASSIVE engine library in it. Its probably the next best thing for trying different designs without actually building them.
My friends and I regularly print entire Estes-sized rockets, and custom parts for high powered. It's relatively cheap if you have access to a machine. You simply have to understand the material you are working with. Its not going to replace metal, wood, or composites, but it makes great material for customizing bays.
This is the last one we designed: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:123586
The books u/der_innkeeper mentioned are good, however IMO a much better starting place for someone with your interests and background is Understanding Space by Sellers et al. It's a great introduction for a lot of space topics and is very digestible for a highschooler/early college student.
I would definitely recommend getting a SMT practice board before attempting to put one of those together. I learned the hard way! Gikfun DIY SMD SMT Welding Practice Soldering Skill Training Board Ek7028 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWB8F8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FDZG6E0VQ5GTCS2FTWGV
I really like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084SCZ6XV/
Once your rocket is on the pad you can connect to it with your phone to see a live view and start the actual recording for the flight.
Secondary bonus you can use a wifi strength finder app as a rudimentary tracking system for it as well.
This is also much easier and cheaper to do than most people realize.
- Amateur Radio License. Fee is about $5-$15, depending on club administering the test, I got mine after about 5 hours of studying. There's a ton of free online resources, or fairly cheap online tools.
- Transmitter. Big Red Bee is $60
- Transceiver. Baofang sells one on Amazon for $28
- Build a yagi antenna for around $20
All in, you're looking at well under $150 for something that will work really well, last a long time, and will give you a license into another potential hobby.
It was actually really cheap - just $10. Here it is on Amazon. I bet you the Arduino would cost more, but I had one lying around for years so I can't give you an exact cost.
"Rocket Man" by David A. Clary. Picked up my copy at the Roswell Museum and Art Center in Roswell, New Mexico. They had signed copies, as that's where Goddard did much of his work. I also saw Harrison "Jack" Schmitt's Apollo 17 suit, which was in the museum at the time. Later that day I met him in person, not even knowing he was in town. It was incredible, I got an autograph and a photo. Would love to share more of the story if anyone's interested.
​
Link to the book on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Rocket-Man-Robert-Goddard-Birth/dp/0786887052
I would suggest these or similar. https://www.amazon.com/11-81in-science-experiment-Connecting-fireworks/dp/B09MMT4RCP/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?adgrpid=88431161479&gclid=CjwKCAiA7vWcBhBUEiwAXieItgYffcT1jE_bQXH3JrcFFRYD8IGh5ruo4NglpMTB_brTh5oJ2aKkphoC1xEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=580736583733&...
At .45 a piece they're cheap, saving you time. I've used them for several and so far not one has failed to do the job. They're also super reliable for D and E motors. Just make sure they're in all the way and a bit of masking tape to hold it in place.
Great first book, also make mag has a wonderful starter book.
Ignition!: An Informal History of Liquid Rocket Propellants (book)
I believe this is some edition of the book available for free online: ignition.pdf
Bought this one book:
Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775K67RF?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ts_MPT7YGTJPXAS8XG0PH84
And I guided me through everything I needed to know and answered all my beginner and even some expert questions.
Huzel and Huang for engine design https://www.amazon.com/Engineering-Liquid-Propellant-Progress-Astronautics-Aeronautics/dp/1563470136
Liquid rocket thrust chambers for injectors https://arc.aiaa.org/doi/book/10.2514/4.866760
The NAR re-worked their website a while back and I don't know where the competition data wound up, but here is some archival data in the wayback machine
Surface finish and fin alignment are actually the most critical aerodynamic elements for optimal altitude.
Well, it depends heavily on your core construction and selected propellant. If you have solid core nuclear reactor as your heat source and you run on Hydrogen propellant, the plume is for the most part, just hot hydrogen. Los Alamos Study on NERVA had some numbers available, but I am not sure if the study itself is still available.
If you plan to run more, ah, exotic reactor, you might have escaping nuclear fuel in the plume. Open Cycle Gaseous Core comes to mind, but this hasn't made out of concept study phase and the studies there were unanimous over the radiation load from the exhaust plume.(unlike Nerva, which had ground tests conducted back at the mid 1950s).
Robert H. Frisbee wrote a good overview article over the subject:
It is truly the bible of electronics.
It's great but to start it's often a bit violent,
I advise you to read this one : https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Electronics-Inventors-Fourth-Scherz/dp/1259587541/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=QBLGLJURDU5&keywords=inventor+for+electronic&qid=1664644736&s=books&sprefix=inventor+for+electronic%2Cstripbooks-intl-ship%2C141&a...
My go-to is the SQ-12 or similar. It can be found from a number of companies on Amazon. Usually can be found for $15-$35. Just took a look, it seems most of them are marketed/listed as "Mini Spy Camera" these days.
Fundamentals of Astrodynamics is a good one.
Playing Kerbal Space Program will give you a really good grasp of basic orbital mechanics too.
The equations in the link are energy yield of 1g of uranium; This would be fuel consumption during the fissioning effect. A 1800MW(th) nuclear reactor consumes about 5g (if memory serves correctly) of uranium during single year of operation. Nuclear motors would have about the same nuclear fuel consumption rate.
Samuel Glasstone has a book available in Kindle about reactor core physics and engineering. Recommended reading: https://www.amazon.com/Nuclear-Reactor-Engineering-4e-Vol-ebook/dp/B081L2RL41/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=nuclear+reactor+basics&qid=1657564749&s=digital-text&sr=1-
The ninety minutes of impulse are likely dependent on motor and vehicle construction, seems plausible for a hohhmann-transfer; If you start from LEO, it takes about 4,5km/s to achieve Mars Injection orbit. Further 2,5km for LMO. I'll call it plausible engine burn count.
The fuel consumption (As pointed by h2gBen) is dependent heavily on fuel enrichment level, which also dictates core engineering. Vehicle specs are of course mission specific, and in turn create constrains on motor (and reactor design).
Perhaps try looking for a golf ball pick up tube. https://www.amazon.com/Tourna-Golf-Ball-Pickup-Clear/dp/B09KYFD4TS I think that's fairly close to BT-70.
An alaternative would be this controller:
https://estesrockets.com/product/002240-pro-series-ii-launch-controller/
With this battery or similar (LiPo, 950 mAh, 11.1V, JST connector):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FUMKI18
It'd be more lightweight package, internal battery, but pricewise similar. If you do not have LiPo charger, it'd add to the total cost.
This isn’t necessarily beginner but more oriented to teaching about the subject.
This book includes a walk through of using an open-source simulator:
Mike Westerfield Make: High-Power Rockets: Construction and Certification for Thousands of Feet and Beyond
https://www.amazon.com/Make-High-Power-Construction-Certification-Thousands/dp/1457182971
This book provides awesome discussions of motors, delay modification, and electronics:
Mike Westerfield Make: High-Power Rockets: Construction and Certification for Thousands of Feet and Beyond
https://www.amazon.com/Make-High-Power-Construction-Certification-Thousands-ebook/dp/B0775K67RF
Np. This book provides a good discussion, btw.
Mike Westerfield Make: High-Power Rockets: Construction and Certification for Thousands of Feet and Beyond
https://www.amazon.com/Make-High-Power-Construction-Certification-Thousands-ebook/dp/B0775K67RF
That I don't, when my brother made motors he would put them in computer antistatic bags so that you didn't have to worry about shocking when you are the static charge.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THZPFR7/ as an example
Regarding the problem of the PVC pipe grabbing when you rip cut it...
I've never tried this, but what about ripping the pipe from the inside out by threading a cable saw through its length?
Probably want something longer, but this is the general idea in my head:
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-858-Stainless-Serrated/dp/B002FYUNGA
I would highly recommend a pair of good calipers, makes life a whole lot easier when taking measurements, but also for getting an idea of how big things are. I personally recommend these calipers, I own 2 of them and the give me accurate and repeatable results.
As for the thickness of the fins, use the max thickness of the fins and chose rounded or airfoil this will give you an accurate result. Also 2mm is really thin for using balsa with a D, I would personally use 3-5 mm, or use a different material, such as thick card stock/board. As for the shape of your fin, play with the height and the span of the fin, you can find a pretty good balance if you mess when it a little bit. One other thing you can do to try and make it more stable is to change the length of the body tube, this will move your CG forward wile keeping your CP in relatively the same spot. Another thing you could try is to change the diameter of your tube. I it will help change your stability, but I would have to check on that one.
Probably to late for this to be useful but I did order these off of Amazon
uxcell Push Clip Rivet 4mm x 9mm PCB Circuit Panel Nylon Fastener Black 50 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLPP9YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_IcbOJWbLIZI6z
>Friend, the words “beginner” and “liquid rocket engine” don’t really go together.
I beg to differ, sir!
www.amazon.com/Launcher-Outdoor-Science-Experiment-Teenagers/dp/B07XCC3G28
For data, take a look at the HopeRF modules. In particular, the RFM22B. There might be something newer/better at this point, though.
For video, your easiest route to success is going to be NTSC. There are a huge number of options in the R/C FPV area. Since you are probably not concerned with latency you can go digital, but I'm not really sure of any good options here. Here is a good place to start, though:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/wireless-video-transmitter-module.html
I agree that you issue is the 9v batteries they don't have the amperage to ignite the igniter. I just got done building a launch controller and used a 12V 1.3Ah sealed lead acid battery. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8V2DFQ/ All of the igniters that I used lit as soon as you flipped the switch. My new controller replaced the stock Estates controller, which constantly gave me problems and only ignited about every other time. You would also have to hold the launch button down for about three seconds before the motor would actually ignite.
If you have the igniter out of the rocket motor and press your launch button, does the igniter glow orange or does it pop and destroy the igniter?
I'm not a guru on this, but I'll take a stab at it...
Yes.
From
https://www.amazon.com/Airbrushing-Scale-Modelers-Aaron-Skinner/dp/0890249571
> Although some model paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing, most are designed to be hand-brushed. They need to be thinned for airbrushing.
It sounds like you can take any model paint you can find (gloss) and mix it to work in an airbrush.
btw, that's an awesome book if you can get your hands on it.
You might be able to find some airbrush gurus on https://www.reddit.com/r/scalemodel
It strikes me how many people in a technical domain like this don't know about Library Genesis or Sci-hub. Thank me later, if you're one of those lucky individuals.
Thanks! The visualizations were created using MATLAB- that's a really convenient environment to do the all the math required to get the trajectory, not as convenient to make good-looking animations of data. The video was made using Da Vinci Resolve.
It's not easy. A lot of those vehicles were originally classified. Just keep looking and don't give up, drawings have surfaced over the years in various places.
Surprisingly, model builders are one of the best places for information. Try the book "Rockets of the World" by Peter Alway. It's hard to find, but ask the library, they can surely dig up a copy though inter-library loan.
http://www.worldcat.org/title/rockets-of-the-world/oclc/44097259?referer=di&ht=edition
No, you have it pretty much right I'm sure. Here is the openrocket file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5ThMnhAEpl8SmpuUVUzdVlRY2c/edit?usp=sharing I'm not sure how to do it, but could we put some blackpowder on top of the top bulkhead to set it off?
It’s a paper rocket currently. Mainly I wanted to know how to regulate the flow/pressure coming out of my solenoid. Any good ways to do this? This is the solenoid I’m using:
Electric Solenoid Valve, 12V DC 1/8" NPT Female Port 2 Way Normally Closed Pneumatic Aluminum Electric Solenoid Air Valve for Air Gas Liquid Water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SNV4PBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PBB4RGWB0SYGB3YGN7PB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's one I drew up in TinkerCad for the Mobius ActionCam : https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kwwW5jJM9Q7-mobius-action-camera-rocket-mount
You can modify the large cylinder on the base to make it fit different size tubes. I've printed out a bunch of them for different rockets from 2.0" -> 5.5". I mount it with screws.
cheers
FreeCAD is a nice alternative if you want an opensource CAD software. That's currently what I use and it has been working great so far. But it doesn't really matter. At the end of the day, they're all very similar. FreeCAD has a great beginner tutorial here. Once you complete it, it's pretty easy to design just about everything you want. The software also has a big user base, so there are a bunch of videos and posts on the forums to help you out.
Is it a solid fuel motor you will be using?
This covers almost everything about how a motor for IREC is designed: http://anyflip.com/zsts/qteg/basic
Don't worry too much about the formulas. Just give it a quick read
Something like one of these. There's lots of variations of the same model on amazon and ebay if you need higher pressure. Use a standoff tube filled with grease and it will survive fine.
Out of curiosity, do you have any details you can share about your engine?
For an L1 you should be okay, although I would recommend getting some Rocketpoxy if you’re going to be doing fillets on a regular basis.
Another option is to mix some milled fiber into the epoxy. (But I find this to be messier and harder to work with than rocketpoxy)
https://www.amazon.com/Modern-High-Power-Rocketry-Mark-Canepa/dp/1412058104 This book is really good for reading once you start getting into high powered rocketry (i.e. once the motors start having more “umph” to them). Look into your local Tripoli or NAR chapter if you’re in the US, they’re usually willing to teach!
Elegoo Mega 2560 Project The Most Complete Ultimate Starter Kit w/ TUTORIAL for Arduino Mega2560 UNO Nano https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWNUUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6rNPhj1Eut8Ys
That’s from 2017 though. There are some newer ones out there like the Uno.
You don’t need full car battery. Try a 12V SLA. Easy to charge and carry. Something like this ExpertPower 12 Volt 12 Ah Rechargeable Battery with F2 Terminals || EXP12120 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8S367WD939NH8QBVVTXH
Daniel Evans advice is, as always, excellent. Strongly second the reading. Also a shameless plug,
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.whimsicalhubris.hybrid
I've made up a simple android app to calculate some of the numbers you need. Still recommend reading Rocket Propulsion Elements, it's an excellent resource, but my app might help you with some of the numbers.
Also, please, please be safe. Rockets are cool, but we don't want anyone losing anything.
Now that's a completely different question. This is what you want to read to get started:
https://estesrockets.com/wp-content/uploads/Educator/2819_Estes_Model_Rocketry_Technical_Manual.pdf
And then once you've finished reading that:
https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Model-Rocketry-7th-Official/dp/0471472425
The youtubers already mentioned are a good place to start.
If you’re really keen you can read Rocket Propulsion Elements
If you like to tinker with your own avionics, a raspberry pi is great for prototyping. As a bonus, you can attach a very small camera that uses the pi to record. Make sure to check for one that comes without the bulky PCB. There is one that's 8x11mm and fits well into a small 3d printed side-mounted housing. Most of the self-contained cameras are bulkier, since they include their own processor, storage and possibly even battery.
Edit: Since you asked for link. Look for something like this in your country: https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Megapixels-Sensor-Camera-Raspberry/dp/B012QRGUCQ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=raspberry+pi+mini+camera&qid=1610585984&sr=8-2
I have a 12 unopened Estes wizard kits (my favourite for the last 20 + years) that somehow appeared on my doorstep this spring.
I have no clue how it got there according to my wife.
> Should I just buy a rocket kit with an instruction manual and just follow that to make my first rocket?
Yup!
> Any tips or other advice?
Read this PDF first:
https://estesrockets.com/wp-content/uploads/Educator/2819_Estes_Model_Rocketry_Technical_Manual.pdf
And order this book:
https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Model-Rocketry-7th-Official/dp/0471472425
This resource is a good start.
https://www.amazon.com/Fundamentals-Combustion-Propulsion-Astronautics-Aeronautics/dp/1563477033
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I have found it at my university library instead of purchasing it. As the Spork said, the rates vary widely. I have seen 1mm/s to 12mm/s depending on the motor specifics.
This is the best place to get started:
https://estesrockets.com/wp-content/uploads/Educator/2819_Estes_Model_Rocketry_Technical_Manual.pdf
That is a very quick read of all the important stuff.
When you are ready to move on:
https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Model-Rocketry-7th-Official/dp/0471472425
I used this one on my l1 rocket and really liked that once you turn it on and slide it in the rocket you can view it via wifi and kick off the recording just before launching.
If it comes back balistic and completely destroys the camera and memory card you still have some video saved to your phone of time on the pad and the start of the launch until it goes out of range.
Fun side perk - I use an app on my phone called "wifi analyzer" and can see the wifi hot spot from the camera around 200 meters out and use it as a a kind of homing beacon to help find the rocket on the ground.
I probably wouldn't buy one on amazon as you can probably get them cheaper from a welding store near you.
Also to get them filled typically they just do exchanges at a welding supply, switching out your cylinder for a full one. Also why you should check your welding store first, to make sure they carry oxygen tanks that size.
For reference, where I am at least a full T sized cylinder (the very large welding cylinders) only cost $80 for the oxygen. For those large ones, you don't actually buy the cylinder and you rent them, typically for a dollar or so a day.
That rocket should do fine. I'm slightly concerned because it says it includes "nylon elastic shock cord." If it really is elastic for the shock cord, buy some tubular nylon or Kevlar instead. Tubular nylon is available at many hardware stores and is cheaper, but Kevlar lasts longer and is far more flame resistant. I've had good experiences with this Kevlar from Amazon.
I have both and are pretty in depth.
https://www.amazon.com/Saturn-V-Flight-Manual-Nasa/dp/1607964724/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1OC7GSS4KZ2TZ&keywords=apollo+flight+manual&qid=1566181287&s=gateway&sprefix=apollo+flight+%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-11-Flight-Plan-Final/dp/1945701102/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OC7GSS4KZ2TZ&keywords=apollo+flight+manual&qid=1566181348&s=gateway&sprefix=apollo+flight+%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-1
Got them off Amazon
How complex are your grains?
If you are making solid or simple hollow core grains, metal tubing is the way to go. You can also use PVC (or CPVC), but it isn't as stable as metal.
This chrome-plated brass sink tailpiece is 4" x 1.5" for $7. You can find them at any hardware store. You can split the pipe lengthwise for easy removal. For larger sizes you will probably have to visit a metal supply shop or buy specialty online.
If it helps...
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.whimsicalhubris.hybrid
That's an app I made up a while ago that helps you calculate all the values you need. Could be useful for what you're doing. Also, my 2 cents would be to use gaseous oxygen. Get it at basically any hardware store, not as nasty to work with as a lot of other options.
If you're looking for small N2O cartridges, they sell them like that already. Look up whippet cartridges. As far as the math goes, I personally reccomend reading the hybrid section of Rocket Propulsion Elements. There's PDFs available online. Or, as a shameless plug,
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.whimsicalhubris.hybrid
That's an app I made than simplifies things. Just don't blow yourself up.
I'd recommend the book handbook of model rocketry. It contains pretty much everything you need to know, and its what gave me most of the information I know and use about rocketry today. As for model rockets, I'd recommend getting a beginner kit that takes A-C engines. Estes in my opinion sells the best beginner kits, so check out their website.
Check this out, $16 and it's accurate to 0.001 gram!
It's so accurate I literally could watch the paint/dope dry on a small model airplane. The last digit ticked down every second as the dope was drying. It only goes up to 50g though.
A very small cube camera from wisb but here is a link from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Detection-Support-Surveillance-Outdoor/dp/B07XH1SDGR/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=mini+camera&qid=1588083016&sr=8-19&swrs=94CCE7E46EEA40B96432A9E92EE1FBEC
I buy from Amazon and then grind to the right mesh as needed. Also roll for fancy silky-smooth spherical particles. ;)
I’m probably on several watchlists...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POHLRC/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1
I use this with a half face mask also purchased on amazon. Way overkill for just particles but works well and ensures I have protection from other fumes. You can get cheaper ones designed for just particles but this will filter everything out.
I bought mine because I was doing extensive sanding and cutting of fiberglass sheet and the lab we worked in only had 2 so I wanted my own so I 1. always had one to use and 2. didn't have to risk getting sick from the other ones as it was height of cold and flu season. I also do rocketry outside the lab so I knew I would have to get one eventually.
Closest thing I can think of that is still in production is the Estes Mini A Heli. I have one and it's fairly reliable, but you have to bend the propellers just right to make it spin. Good news is that if you botch it the blades are big enough to have plenty of drag for a safe landing.
The kit isn't all black but you could paint it that way if you so choose. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JF4H43C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fdv7Db4J6APE2
Ignition! by John D. Clark is a great resource as well. It details the history of propellant chemistry, and it should be useful to you in choosing a fuel type.
It's not so much about liquid fuel engines, but if you're planning on building the motor you'll need to understand propellant chemistry. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0813595835/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0Su7Db5AZVC9V
How do I ensure that this is compatible with my oxygen tank at home? Is there a standard outlet size for all oxygen tanks? Right now, my tank has a cga-540 outlet. Sorry if that's a stupid question, I haven't really worked much on the flow aspect of rocketry.
Not very practical for amateurs ,but it is one of my favorites
Definitely doable, I did something similar for my hybrid motor and it made a considerable improvement for being completely non-optimized. (although it did catch fire...)
Any thoughts on a starting block of aluminum material and/or fitting scheme that would allow easy attachment to the female 1/4 NPT that currently terminates the system? Reaaallllyyy dont want a homemade nozzle shooting off and embedding in my tibia.
Thinking something like this. It's only rated to 1200 PSI. I highly doubt I'm hitting that much exhaust pressure but until I get a measurement I'm assuming the full system is at 4500.
https://www.amazon.com/Space-Propulsion-Analysis-Design-Website/dp/0077230299/ref=sr_1_1
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My coworker has it.
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