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The most popular reviews in /r/typewriters:
The standard size of ribbon is 0.5 inches wide on a 2 inch spool. There are lots of sellers on Amazon that sell ribbons. I bought these a few weeks ago for my machines.
I asked him about it, too. It’s made for We’r Memory Keepers (I think it’s a typewriter made for crafters) and he got it from Amazon. I ordered one for mine.
We R Memory Keepers Clear Typewriter Cover Typecast https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792P87CT/
I really wanted a Freewrite as well, but they were way too rich for my blood. Luckily I found a decent replacement. A second hand an Alphasmart Neo 2. You can find them cheaper on Ebay. There's also older models with slightly smaller screens and not quite so great keyboards. Not that the Neo 2 is especially amazing, but it is better than the first version I also had. I liked it enough and got enough use out of it that I got the newer version.
To get what you wrote off of these machines you use a USB A-B printer cable and hook it up to your computer. The you load up your writing program of choice and hit transmit. The device acts like a keyboard and writes what you wrote on the device into whatever writing program you have on your computer. Works great, even if it sometimes takes a while if You've written a bunch.
I know there's computer based solutions to distraction free writing. Write or Die being a big one. But I really like the portability of the Alphasmart gizmos.
Hi and good luck!
A pic would help us help you figure out the year and/or model, and there's also the typewriter database: http://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database
As to getting it set up:
The ribbon is the first thing and the easiest thing. You don't generally re-ink ribbons, although it's possible. I usually just buy them from Amazon, they're super easy to find. (Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/AroundTheOffice-Universal-Fabric-Typewriter-Ribbon/dp/B0136W6OS0/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1529938298&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=typewriter+ribbon&psc=1 But you can just search for typewriter ribbons, you'll find 'em. You just want to make sure it's on spools, and not a cartridge).
NOTE: If you have old metal spools on the machine, do not get rid of them. You don't really see new ribbons being sold on metal spools generally, and you can actually re-roll the ribbon onto the old spools, though that may be more effort than it's worth at present.
Just make sure you observe it as you take it out, and put it back in the same way you took it out but reverse.
As to maintaining, a good cleaning will solve a surprising number of issues. you can use a very limited amount of oil, but start with cleaning, because oil will gum up the works, particularly as it mixes with ink and/or dust, there's a lot of small moving parts. The answer to "am I using too much oil" is almost always "yes". If you start with a cleaning, it'll probably solve those sticking keys.
Other than that, good luck and enjoy and remember you can always ask more questions!
I believe that the typewriter you have is an electronic typewriter that takes a carbon ribbon cartridge rather than a cloth ribbon, a fact that some of the other commenters seem to have overlooked.
Try searching ebay with the name of your typewriter and see what you come up with. I found this listing, see if the cartridge looks similar to the one that is currently in the machine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/272187197262?item=272187197262&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true
And here is a listing on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Package-Electronic-Typewriter-Correctable-Compatible/dp/B00BISQWGE
Probably - the Selectric was incredibly common at in that time period; not sure about the font though.
However, they aren't really that expensive.
These are nice. I have a couple Brother/ Webster ultraportables. I don't know if universals will work but I know it will work if you stick with ones specific to that unit, and you have multiple options. Here's 2 but there may be more
https://www.amazon.com/Brother-Others-Typewriter-Ribbon-Compatible/dp/B00AIALBIC
Instead of a non-slip map, chip off the old nubs and get some rubber furniture floor grippers. These work great... https://www.amazon.com/SoftTouch-Self-Stick-Heavy-Non-Slip-Surface/dp/B005XGOV7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=furniture+floor+gripper&qid=1619413248&sr=8-24#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div
I've had good luck ordering on Amazon. I ordered these ones and am using them in a couple Remingtons now.
That's an Olympia SM8, probably late 1960s version. This is among my favorite machines to type on. I was typing on one this morning, in fact. You can see some galleries of this typewriter here.
Red/Black "Universal" typewriter ribbon/spools will work fine for this typewriter. You can find them on Amazon, eg here.
Type much!
Never use WD-40 on a typewriter. It is a good short-term fix but will cause massive issues down the line once it gets dirt in it and gums up.
This oil is what I use on all my typewriters and I find it works very well.
As for a squealing belt, the basics are the same as for an accessory belt on a car... you can make the squealing go away for a little bit with belt dressing and the like, but the only real fix is to replace the belt. Remove the belt, measure it (width, style, length) - if it has teeth count them, if it doesn't, wrap a cloth tape or string around it and measure it or cut the belt and measure it, and get a replacement off amazon.
Its making a buzzing noise when trying to acess a disk and not working.
I tried to open it up but it seems pretty hard and I don't want to accidentally break something, are those floppy disk shaped cleaners any good? Anyway, I'm just glad the rest of it works!
The reason for a hole in a stack of paper is the difference between stepping on a piece of paper on a hard floor and stepping on a piece of paper on a thick carpet.
The reason for stacking papers is not to prevent holes in the paper, but to protect the platen. I am not sure, however, that this rule is really necessary.
When typewriters were commercially available, we didn't have to worry about that. Today's typewriters have been in production for a long time, and the platens tend to harden, so care may need to be taken not to give them a hard blow.
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Don't know about the line returns, unless your rubber platen and rollers are really dry and not gripping the paper properly. Or if the teeth on the gear on the platen aren't catching every time. You could check that whole ratchet mechanism, clean it and all that.
As for the left-hand margin, I had that problem every once in a while on mine - depending on how hard you threw the carriage it would either be on the margin or 1 space off. Behind the paper table where the escapement is, on the back of the machine, there's a post in the center where the margins will hit and stop. Should be screws on either side, and you can adjust the position of the stops ever-so-slightly until the carriage is stopping where you want it.
Apologies for my complete lack of terminology, I do have the service manual around somewhere but I'm assuming it wouldn't be helpful if you don't also have said manual. Can be found here: https://sellfy.com/p/7Nrf/, digital for $11
Hey,
I'm not sure if this is helpful, but I found books geared towards the repair of various typewriters titled The Repair Bible Series: https://sellfy.com/twdb/
Here's one specifically for the Smith Corona 12 Galaxie: https://sellfy.com/p/7Kkk/
You can buy a service manual at a reasonable price here: https://sellfy.com/p/h43N/ They are complicated machines, but very fast and very cool when working properly. One thing to keep in mind is that if the typewriter won't respond, you should hit the backspace. It is designed to stop working if you hit two keys at once, but the backspacer immediately releases the keyboard and you can proceed.
Start off by not removing the carriage. Removing the carriage greatly complicates replacing a drawband, and maybe you're talking about the platen anyway, which is a whole different concern.
Next, replacing a drawband on normal typewriters like this one is a fairly easy job and well covered in tutorials here and on YouTube.
Third, although you shouldn't really need it for this, repair manual reprints are available from Ted Munk here: https://sellfy.com/p/SSs3/
If you try to wait for a Hermes 3000 with intact platen knobs, you'll never buy a Hermes 3000. The plastic used by Hermes for these knobs tended to break down and become brittle.
Autodesk has a service called Tinkercad. If you search through the gallery, you should be able to find files for a Hermes 3000 platen knob. Tinkercad can then connect you with a service that will 3D print the item from that file. I think I priced a replacement for $10-$15 just a few months ago. They even had color options, so you could try to match that Hermes green.
It's worth a shot.
Make sure when you remove the old knob, you carefully note and label each part that held it on (screws, washers, hubs, etc.). Take photos.
Whatever you do, don't let a broken platen knob ruin your enjoyment of the Hermes. One of my favorites, a 1949 SC Silent, is missing the right platen knob. It's easily one of my best machines.
Edit: looks like DeBarth has some, maybe. They're $54 plus shipping, though, so might want to try the above first.
I had bought this paper on Amazon Germany (link). You'll probably be able to find something similar closer to you by searching for "vintage paper". The pattern is printed on it. 120 g paper, somewhat glossy (so not fully ideal for typewriter usage).
When you get to that point, maybe make a new post. I'd hate to advise you wrong, here. I also think more people would see the question about proper oiling procedure if you make a new post with that title when you decide you need to oil it.
Here's my observations:
After 70 years, the grease/oil used over that time has solidified some, got dust and crud in it, etc. You have to use a solvent (? is that the right word?) to clean it off completely. Then, in some of the locations you'll want to add oil back onto the clean parts. You want clean parts, so you're not immediately adding grime and dirt back into the works.
I've personally only ever used gun oil (Rem oil, or Hoppe's 9 [amazon.com/Hoppes-Oil-Combo-Pack-Precision/dp/B073PHCTG2] for instance). But the ball bearings or whatever that are under the carriage might benefit from a different kind of oil -- but I'm not sure about that since I've never needed anything better/different than the Hoppe's.
I'm just letting you know my advice comes with the above caveat, and I encourage you to post a new thread if you clean it and think you need to oil it after you've cleaned -- for instance if it doesn't "feel" right yet with just the cleaning.
This is the first one I found that will work. Amazon is your best bet at the moment. Office Depot usually carries them, but they seem to be out of stock online.
You don't have to buy that specific brand or anything. Just make sure the spools have one large hole in the center with some smaller openings right next to it. If there are raised prong things on the spool, then it not the right kind.
Grommets,. I found a big box of diff sizes on Amazon for $10. I replaced the.ones in the ribbon cover holes.https://smile.amazon.com/Ram-Pro-Assortment-different-See-through-Organizer/dp/B01NAN025Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=grommets&qid=1604818151&sprefix=gromm&sr=8-5
You can still find them for sale on ~~eBay~~ Amazon.
If you buy it in boxes of 500 from amazon it really isn't that bad.
Amazon Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky
If you know approximately what the size and power of the spring that's missing, it shouldn't be too hard to locate a replacement. Amazon has a few bulk packages of springs that look about right for most typewriter springs I've seen. Here's a link to a promising looking bulk package. lots to choose from to get it just right. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQK252/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_iDenBbFNZGJAC
I use these from IKEA, though I think a towel would dampen the sound more. They do slide when I type, and you need some of that non-slide shelf liner to keep it in one place.
That will be difficult to access. You might want to try something like a drill chuck clutch, or a high-hat clutch as a replacement part. Just mind the weight on the drill clutch because they can be quite heavy. It's pretty ghetto but will work until you find something better.
I couldn't find a manual for the KH (the model you have), but here is a manual for the #10, which is similar.
As far as value, it's always a function of a willing buyer and a willing seller, so any price is possible. However, a good condition KH on eBay could go for $150 - $300. I'd expect a slightly higher price on Etsy, though you'd have to package and ship the item if you sell through either of these channels. Shipping via FedEx ground would likely be most economical, but would cost $25 or more.
If you try to sell locally through Craigslist, you could expect anywhere from $20 to $100 or more. If you're in an area where there's a stronger demand, such as a larger metro area, Craigslist prices can be even higher. Of course, there's no packaging required with Craigslist sales.
eBay would lead to the quickest sale, Etsy would take the longest time but could result in the largest profit, while Craigslist would be the easiest because it won't require packaging.
*Edit. $300 on eBay might be high. $100 - $200 might be more realistic.
Here’s what mine currently look like. Picture of Bushing Under SM9
If you're using a portable in several locations I recommend a small concertina file w/carrying handle to keep all of your fresh & typed papers organised and accessible. Something like this, though mine is thinner and not nearly as fancy!
Naval Jelly is what you need. It removes the rust but doesn't affect the paint. Leave a cool looking clean bare steel patina too. It will probably take several applications. After the rust is removed you will need to protect the area with the application of something like car wax to prevent future rusting.
https://dsportmag.com/wp-content/uploads/145-023-Tech-RustRemoval-5CloseUp-1024x768.jpg
Considering it is a carriage shift, it would seem the shift is not moving the carriage high enough. Turn the machine on its back and press the shift key. Look and see what moves and what springs may happen to be attached to it. They may night be tight enough or something of that matter.
I now lurk in r/writing. Haven't been on there much lately. Here is one of my short stories. If you like it, I will send you my first novel (sort of a novella at the moment, at only 30k or so words...still drafting, though) once I finish it. :)
I’d look into case corner protectors as that’s what usually frays first. Something along these lines:
A more elegant solution would be to fashion leather corners and apply them with rubber cement so they can be removed or replaced easily and without much damage.
This is the oil that was recommended to me that I used on my Wheelwriter. I applied it to the cylindrical bar that the carriage rides on after giving the bar a good cleaning. It worked like a dream and I haven’t had to re-oil it yet 2 years later. Hope this helps!
For some reason it won't let me view that link. Would this cartridge work?
Side Loading Print Cartridge for Smith Corona Coronet Super 12 Typewriter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711JGQY7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_21F238QXS1PBMSM213BE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Smith Corona Typewriter Ribbon Coronamatic Type IIA Genuine OEM Product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X31CNS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6VP3F279962HKXNR7E76?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Should be the same cartridge as my Coronamatic 2200.
Thanks! A video pointed me towards cream developer as well. I got some from amazon and linked it.
I spread little globs of it on the keys, covered them with plastic (ripped grocery bags since I didn’t have saran wrap), stuck it in the sun, and waited about an hour. The keys weren’t super yellow and were just tinted, so if they’re darker than that, it may need a little longer.
If used, be very careful not to get it on your skin. I ended up dropping some on myself and receiving a peroxide burn because I didn’t wipe it off right away. Even though it went away, it wasn’t fun to deal with.
Mine isn't lightweight but it is electric and vibrat-y and I also built a drop-bracket shelf to put it on (height for my body and my chair), but the drop brackets made it prone to rattling noises. I bought a wool pressing mat for the typewriter pad-- and put that on top of some of that thicker, non-stick shelf liner. Works as a great noise buffer, a vibration buffer-- the typewriter stays put and doesn't rattle the shelf at all.
Sure... I originally found the link via the Midori site, but it re-routed me to Amazon, and the link for the ink is as follows: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017FXFJPA?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image . I've already used the ink and it works GREAT! It is extremely absorbent, and soaks the ribbon really well, and doesn't seem to dry out. I think that this exercise is going to work out well. The only problem will be cleaning the excess ink off of the ribbon - rubber gloves and lots of paper towels... Good luck
I recommend Southworth 32 lb 100% cotton paper with no watermark. Ivory is a good pick.
100% Cotton Resume Paper, 32lb, 8 1/2 x 11, Ivory, Wove, 100 Sheets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0765DJL4D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F3WMXNH582K9CCZ2RYBW
Spent some more time today poking around and examining the pictures from /u/andreccantin 's post.
After staring at things for about half an hour I noticed that in this picture there is a wee bracket with a spring in front of the escapement, which on my escapement isn't there. So my conclusion is that I'm missing a piece...
Thanks for this helpful reply! So, how does onion skin paper differ from typewriter paper like this https://www.amazon.com/Mead-Multi-Purpose-Typing-Sheets-39100/dp/B000FA3UHA They both seem to be thin, even if OS paper has cotton and is more resilient. Is it worth the high price, or is it more of a novelty item like so many other typewriter related accessories nowadays?
> Dry Teflon spray
Hmm. Dry Teflon spray. I've never heard of it, but looking at the product description I found at Amazon it might be a sensible option.
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Non-Stick/dp/B003UTX0R8?th=1
Does it actually lubricate quite well? Thank you for the tip.
They will probably exist, but I don't have them. I haven't exactly checked out if your particular model is in these, but if a typewriter repair bible exists for your specific model, you could find more info in one of these:
https://sellfy.com/twdb
Unfortunately, typewriter repair manuals were not widely available to the public. And shops that called it quits mostly threw them away. Ted Munk tries to collect them and tries to spread them through the typewriter repair bible series.
Ted Munk has a great site with repair manuals. I've bought a few and they've been valuable to use. Here's link for Hermes
I also created now an online version of the manual, right on the git hosting page (its the same markdown file but without pandoc specific stuff)
https://codeberg.org/cpizza/underwood_manual/src/branch/master/Underwood_Repair_Manual_online.md
Enjoy!
Hey! No, unfortunately I'm only restoring my own personal collection, and I'm from Cape Town so I don't know of anywhere like that in JHB.... But I do know a guy here. Jethro. Here's one of his listings: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/802968996771416/
I ordered these for mine "Package of Two" Royal Contessa, Diana, Meteor, Parade, Portable Diana, Sahara, Signet and Standard 550 Typewriter Ribbon, Compatible, Black, Twin Spo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUS9MFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gJfpg6PIENCbF
I found EXACTLY what I used to use when I was a kid - my parents would bring reams of this home from work.
Carbon paper! That's what I bought - but at a much, much higher price than what you just posted.
Thank you so much. However: I would prefer an option where it could be like thermal fax paper, where no need for a piece of carbon paper between the two is needed, just two sheets attached to each other.
Would this be an example?
​
Thank you so much btw! And especially thank you for the CC tidbit!
He says that this one is the closest one available at present: (quoted)
TM-5 PDF is gonna be the closest, I think. Haven't yet collected enough material for that era of Underwood to build a printed Bible. https://sellfy.com/twdb/p/wmgt/
The same way you clean the rest :)
You get some mineral spirits. Brushes. I like bottle brushes. And a fan for ventilation. You usually take the case apart by undoing some screws on the bottom and lifting the case off. Yours might be different from mine, though.
You start at the button itself and clean the hinge/joint that the button moves. Then follow that next lever/bar to the next joint. Clean that. Keep following the sequence of bars and levers one by one, cleaning each articulation until you get to the part that is unhitching "something" on the carriage or maybe under the carriage at the escapement. As you clean each joint, push the button, so you're kinda working out the kinks as you clean.
Now, be careful you don't clean/rub so hard you dislodge a delicate spring or break a plastic piece. The escapement can also have some delicate parts.
This looks like a service manual you can buy. https://sellfy.com/twdb/p/gtlc/
I searched until I found out this model is a (cheap) clone of a Brother JP7, then went to the Typewriter Database and got the PDF for it.
Are you referring to replacing these: https://imgur.com/gallery/oz7WI2y
Also, if you have to reassemble and aren't sure how, I'd highly recommend the repair bible. I feel like a shill for these PDFs these days but they do offer tear down and repair instructions for a lot of mechanisms in the SM3 and I wouldn't recommend deconstructing these machines without this reference.
SM3 repair bible: https://sellfy.com/p/XJUO/
Take the bottom panel off (2 or 4 screws) and you can see everything in real life and in motion. That will also confirm that the one you have uses this mechanism and not some other.
Also try https://sellfy.com/p/6jOX/ or another in the series.
Glad that you figured it out. Just FYI, the guy who runs the Typewriter Database website also sells manuals he converted into pdfs. I wouldn't be surprised if he has the Lettera 22 on there, since it is so popular.
I agree with all of this! I've had the most luck with thrift stores and word of mouth. I've told my friends and family that I am looking for typewriters, and they keep an eye out for me. My mom even brought home two for me the other day. Shameless plug time. I have two portable manual machines in my Etsy shop at the moment, and I'm working on a couple that I hope to have listed soon. Typewriter 1 Typewriter 2
It can be kind of tough buying online, but I have had nothing but good experience with selling and shipping typewriters.
Good luck with your search!
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. You can use adobe acrobat pro to do it. Also a lot of scanners come with the ability as well. If neither one of those are available to you there is a place online you can grab free OCR. http://www.free-ocr.com Hope this helps.
Are you familiar with software called FocusWriter? It's available for Linux and wind'ohs - free! https://gottcode.org/focuswriter/
You can customize the screen and make it look like an old DOS screen with any font you have. I use courier for that typewriter look. AND, you can turn on typewriter sounds in its preference settings. It's very bare-bones but has spellchecking, saves in several different formats, like odt, plain text, etc., and some bells and whistles for keeping track of your writing output.
There are no visible distractions, just a screen of your text - everything else is hidden - unless you want it otherwise. It's very customizable. I use it everyday, all day. I even have the margins set to match my typewriter, making it simple to know when to do a carriage return and hyphenation (done manually) when copying to the typewriter.
> Does anyone know if it's possible to get the keys re-carved and painted or what is my best bet for those?
If it's just the paint that got worn on the keytops, you might want to try this. It works in many cases.
Lovely machine! Just got one myself though I’ve not had a chance to tinker with it yet… seems to use the same spools as the Studio 44/45 and Lexicon 80 (among others; my assumption is that most Olivettis take the same spools) — depending on where you live, you can find ribbons for those on Amazon / eBay:
U.K. brand I’ve bought from before: https://www.amazon.co.uk/OLIVETTI-Studio-Lexicon-Typewriter-Ribbons/dp/B014JAT1SS?th=1&psc=1
It's free with ads on Amazon here. As someone who recently picked up a Royal KMM and has read a couple of David McCullough's books, I should give it another watch.
They sell this cabinet liner stuff at most places. It’s like a rubber sheeting that you cut to fit. I bought mine at Dollar Tree for ….$1 works great. Rolls up and stops any slip.
I have a wool typewriter mat but this will still slide. I put the rubber cupboard liner down and then the wool pad and no problem.
You can look up “wool pressing mats” to find cheap pads on Amazon eBay or google.
Smart Design Shelf Liner Classic Grip - (12 Inch x 10 Feet) - Drawer Cabinet Non Adhesive Protection - Kitchen [Taupe] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWASQEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_59VKZMRD48JCGJ68HEK0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I found the ribbon here: Side Loading Print Cartridge for Smith Corona Coronet Super 12 Typewriter — https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711JGQY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_51QY84R0KVYC33PDSFP0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I am sure you can find them through a typewriter repair shop or specialized office supply stores too!
I was thinking about this as well, and hoping that this is indeed the case.
A bit unrelated question about the chemicals. I don't live in US, so I can't buy Kroli which seems to be praised to be the best in regard to freeing the rusty nuts.
I can buy Liquid Wrench of Amazon, and ship it here though, so I wonder how much it worse.
I heard that it stinks a lot, is that true?
What about
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-2343776-Freeze-Release-Penetrating/dp/B07ZJX5DXR "Loctite Freeze and Release Penetrating Oil"
I can source it locally I think, have you heard about it?
I used this heat shrink tubing on my '53 Remington Quiet-Riter and it worked great. Slow and smooth heat with a heat gun, along with rolling the newly covered platen on a clean, flat surface while still applying light heat gave me great results.
I checked the second link out and the typewriter from the gallery looks a lot different than mine, which looks like this. Are they different versions of the same model?
If its hard you can try rubber refurbisher. https://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2145-Rubber-Rejuvenator/dp/B00363M0TC/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=rubber+restorer&qid=1622243898&sr=8-7
JJ Short can replace the rubber if its beyond help.
BIC Wite-Out Brand Shake 'n Squeeze Correction Pen, White, 1-Count (WOSQP11) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00016ZMU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TQMBBASKH60TG9D6K375
This is what I use for corrections. It works quite well. Good luck!
I have the same machine. I bought these. XMHF 4 Pcs 8cm Long Nonslip Handle Magnetic Spanner Head U-shaped Slotted Screwdriver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRR2RM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VRWJGNK1XZJP4R4GPRC4
A fellow Discord member linked me to those Amazon ones when I was having the similar issue.
If you wanted to get creative, you could put 2 flathead bits or eye glass screwdrivers in a pair of vise grips or needle nose pliers and lock the jaws in place with a zip tie.
But Phoenix Typewriters’ method is correct. It’s just those dames split screw lock nuts that throw a wrench in the works.
Good luck.
When the keys sit low it is the typebars are bent at the linkage. Tough fix without the correct tools. Try buying some pliers with nylon heads. For lube use only NUTROL.
I recently had a similar model Olympia have the same issue- turned on and hummed but nothing happened. The drive belt had melted itself and was over stretched. It's a really easy thing to replace and get your typewriter working again. I used this o-ring as a replacement, and it's been working great! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUYEJB2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy a cheap grippy shelf liner from your local superstore and cut it to size to use under the typewriter. If you'd rather buy from Amazon, I can vouch that this products works well, is washable, and as a plus is treated with anti-microbial: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B010DHSV6O
I’ve read that it can help in the short term, but that it really ends up making things much worse for the platen
Rubber Renue from MG chemicals Is highly recommended
MG Chemicals 408A-125ML Rubber Renue, 125 ml Liquid Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9X3KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_WjO7FbJYMRHS6
Great find!! I'm sure your daughter will have plenty of fun typing away on this one... They are absolute tanks ( but can be repaired and serviced fairly easily if needed) and they type very well.
Regarding the ribbons, don't go with the black/white correction ribbons. They just make a serious mess 😉. Go either classic black and red, solid black (and use the bottom half that's normally red to extend the life of the ribbon by flipping to the red settings) or go coloured ribbon. Right now I have a purple and brown ribbon in my Olympia to play with... Although I might need to switch to more seasonal colours soon (green and red for Christmas correspondence). You can get the ribbons on both eBay and Amazon. Right now I'm quite happy with the ones from Ribbons Unlimited but the FJA ones have good reviews also. Just compare pricing and length of ribbon😉.
Here's the website so you can get an idea of what they offer: Ribbons Unlimited
For the standard Red and Black I haven't found anything cheaper than these here:
They work pretty good and are seriously inexpensive. Hard to beat!!
I hope you and your daughter have fun with the little typer... ☺️
Amazon has this: Epoch
Can’t recommend it because I haven’t tried it.
In the Amazon related products it shows a size 10, 100% cotton envelope by them, ivory colored. I think I might pick that up as the size is much more manageable
Southworth Exceptional Resume Envelopes, 100% Cotton, Size 10, Ivory, 50 Count (R14I-10L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I8ZXYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NVY5CbENTFGG7
I used an adhesive vinyl leather like material to cover it. I bought it from amazon. Here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Black-Carbon-Release-Technology/dp/B00L9J4JRG?ref_=ast_bbp_dp
Make sure to clean the case very well so it will be easier for the adhesive to stick to the wood.
Hi everyone! I'm new to this sub, and recently bought this Underwood Noiseless typewriter at a garage sale. After lightly cleaning it playing around with it, I have discovered that all of the keys work and none of them stick, but the ink ribbon has dried out. I want to start using this typewriter, but I am unsure where to buy a new ink ribbon. I was looking at this (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002BTPNSW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3CMAE01M1078O&psc=1) but I am not sure if it would work with my typewriter. Does anyone have any suggestions on what type of ink ribbon I should get (I'd prefer Amazon or eBay listings please)? Also, any history information about the model would be appreciated! TIA!
I can send you a set if you need it.
These are also a viable replacement: https://www.amazon.com/Package-Two-Remington-Typewriter-Ribbon/dp/B079YT4KVV
I use something like those, I don't waste time with the originals.
This is what we in the military avionics community call Torque-Seal. It's a fluid whose whole purpose is to let you know if the fastener has been loosened, either by vibration or by human.
You may have oozed some of the gunk into the key hinges, especially if you didn't wipe off the dirt (or blow it off) with something dry beforehand. On some machines it requires 4 or 5 good passes (every few hours, or once a day) before everything is working. And sometimes a key that was working will jam up again. But eventually it all cleans up.
I haven't used rubbing alcohol, so I can't say what that's going to do. In general, alcohols should dry out completely, so you won't have any moisture in there. Almost all parts of a typewriter should be dry (a few places, like the escapement and bearings, can require some oil).
Denatured Alcohol is great for cleaning. Keep in mind that it dries pretty quickly, so some of that gunk can linger after a single pass. For lingering problems, I break out the Mineral Spirits, which doesn't dry as fast. Personally I'm a big fan of using high-pressure air (I use this) along with the alcohols. Good luck!
Thank you! Is there any certain type of of epoxy I should be looking for? I have this https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Black+epoxy&qid=1596480802&sr=8-3 or should I get a epoxy putty stick instead?
I use Crane & Co. half sheets from my local stationery shop. They come in packs of 40 sheets and 20 envelopes for around $30.00. They’re perfect for writing/typing short formal letters and thank you notes. Here’s the link to them on Amazon: Crane & Co. Half Sheets I think you should go take a look around your local shop though and find whatever you prefer.
If you look on Amazon they have stuff. This set is almost identical to the one I have. The extendable handle with magnetic tip has been a lifesaver more than once. Really anything with a good assortment of slotted drivers would work. https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Repair-Magnetic-Screwdriver-Precision/dp/B0822FS7Z6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?
https://www.amazon.com/Chancellor-Correction-Electric-Typewriter-Compatible/dp/B01FIVHPH6
It would be cheaper to buy a universal ribbon, but then re-spool it onto your existing spools. But the above seems to be the right size for you.
I've found Etsy more reliable for ribbons vs. Amazon, though.
Thanks! I did find some. Now for the second step...setting it up. I don't I can find anything that holds paper that thick. Do you think I could just put it on a desk or does it need support?
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Edit: I did find a holder but it's a bit pricy. I just wanted let everyone know incase they want to do the same thing.
I’m not even remotely sure on this, but:
The early Mac IBooks, and PowerBooks of the same era, circa y2k, used a round “ufo” power brick. That power brick had a cord with 3 round pins. You might be able to use one of those cords, even though the outer shape of it is different. Definitely no guarantees on that though. Maybe you have a buddy with one laying around?
Edit: come to think of it, some aftermarket laptop power bricks have essentially the same thing:
Ohhhhh yeah that’s what I had in mind. My typewriter uses this kind of side loading cartridge though, and selection I’ve found online for cartridges has been fairly minimal.
https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Corona-Ribbon-Coronamatic-Type/dp/B000X31CNS
I'd recommend odorless mineral spirits for cleaning. You should also be able to find electronic or mass air flow sensor cleaners that don't leave a residue. This was the dry teflon spray I liked best. Try an auto parts store or Walmart. Move the parts as you spray it on then wipe away the white residue where you don't want it.
Been using this stuff MG Chemicals Nutrol Control Cleaner but it leaves a trace of mineral oil after its cleaning solvent evaporates. Haven't had any issues with it collecting dust, but I do keep all my machines covered when not in use. I'll look into some dry Teflon sprays- any recommendations?
I've bought my ribbons through Amazon. My last purchase was this set and they've been working great.
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Typewriter-Ribbon-Supplies-Compatible/dp/B002C4FKXE Personally haven't tested it out yet, but the reviews seem good for this ribbon.
(more experienced typists can tell me if this is wrong and never use it lol)
You're welcome! :)
As for ribbons, honestly it depends a great deal on if your machine has the original steel spools. If it did, then, yes, most every universal ribbon will work. You'll just need to get a bit of ink on your fingers respooling. By far the best choice.
If your machine didn't come with its original spools, then it gets a bit trickier, since not all universal spools are created equal. Read the ribbon descriptions, and reviews if you're going the amazon route, and it should specify if it's compatible with your machine.
Beware of some "speciality" sites selling ribbons. They'll basically just repackage bulk ribbon in a fancy way, and jack up the price.
These were the last ones I bought and worked quite well, though a touch on the spendy side.
Fishing line tends to be stretchy. Braided fibre is the way, shoelaces are a good idea. Personally I use window blind cord like this