What are /r/vintageaudio's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I put in a lithium pack and a Bluetooth adapter in one recently, erbody digs it.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-DROK-Receiver-Electronics-Headphone/dp/B07P94Z9XR/

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/

Atari 2600 still requires an RF modulator, just a little different kind. You need one that is even harder to find like this.

I tried my best, I like messing with this stuff. I'd wait around for some other people, I'm sure there are people lurking around with far better equipment and know-how than I have. I just used Audacity. If you can get it, the original file would be nice.

I made two, first one sounds more natural to me, but the other brings out the voices a bit.

https://clyp.it/x1ezts0b https://clyp.it/b215h5no

First things first -clean the sliders, switches, and knobs with Deoxit.

Don't go crazy tearing this thing apart until you've thoroughly cleaned it. You may be surprised by the results.

They're called pin connectors. I don't know why they're called "banana plugs" in that Amazon listing, but these are the ones I use. They work great with my 1970s Yamaha reciever and Pioneer HPM-100 alike.

That's gotta be about the most mid-century modern-est stereo of all time. This guy here is trying to get $28K for one.

I just watched a new documentary about Gordon Lightfoot on Amazon Prime last night. I'd forgotten how great he is, and this doc represents him very well.

I found that replacing the tweeter diaphrams with titanium ones from Critesspeakers, in addition to damping the midrange horns with Dynamat Extreme made significant audible improvements to my Heresy II's. As with anything in audio, YMMV. Regardless of whether or not you like the sound of these speakers, they sure look nice IMO.

It is very odd that all the drivers would need to be replaced. Have you tested them individually or is it possible that they would only need to be re-foamed? The cost of a re-foam is considerably less if the cones and voice coils are in decent shape.

That's a super common value. Something like this should work. You'll want to check the physical size (height and diameter) of your vs what you buy to ensure they fit. Also that the lead spacing on the circuit board matches the spacing on the cap. You're looking for a radial lead capacitor. They do have 2 styles of leads. Ether straight wire leads like the link I gave or what's called "snap in" which require larger holes in the circuit board. The wire lead types will fit both large and small diameter holes.

As for physically replacing them, it's easy as long as you have good access to the bottom of the circuit board. Heat one lead and tilt the cap to pill out that lead and then repeat on the other one. It can take sever 'tilts' to get the lead out if they're long. Caps can hold a charge for awhile depending on the circuit. So shorting the leads with an insulated handle screwdriver is a good idea before desoldering them. These are pretty low voltage so not too dangerous.

If you need to get gunk off something, try Soilove. It is my go-to for everything these days. It says it's for laundry (and it works great for laundry), but I've put it in a sprayer and use it all over. Nothing cuts gunk in the sink or shower better. It does an excellent job of removig baked-on gunk on pots and pans, too.

I know it looks gimmicky, but it really works. Before you order from Amazon, look at your local Dollar Store. $8 is pricey, but I buy it for $1 a bottle here and use it liberally. It goes in every wash and I use it around the house.

Also, for something built in the early 1970s, you really should pop the hood and replace all of the resistors and capacitors. Modern ones are so much better and the old ones are almost certainly out of spec.

Take a deep breath and go one at a time. You can DIY it and it just takes a noob longer. Give it a few evenings and replace everything. I like Mills non-inductive wirewound resistors and Nichicon, Sprague and Panasonic make good capacitors. You can find them at Digikey, Mouser, Newark, and Allied.

Wow, for most of us, this would be an end-game system. Congrats OP on the haul! What kind of speakers are you thinking of getting?

For everyone else, there are 3 Dragons available in the LA area now!: https://offerup.com/search?radius=50&q=nakamichi+dragon

Flip to Page 84 on the text itself.

EDIT: Here's a 2 page ad. Scroll down (a lot) to pages 90-91.

GE Porta-Fi, like it says. Underneath that terrible paint job is a real nice piece of furntiture. Here's a restored version of this one.

5.1 wasn't common until the mid 90s. Those speakers are from 96' at the earliest. Probably sold paired with a matching Dolby pro logic amp.

I've found a OfferUp ad with your speakers and the matching amp

https://offerup.com/item/detail/414053476/

De-Ox It works great. This is what you want. CAIG Laboratories D100L-25C Contact Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000YH6F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7WMDKGED0BF36EBVXNR9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It’s one of those things where just a dab will do you. Best contact cleaner out there

It's an AV cooling system designed for receivers that do not get enough air around them, in tight spaces like my cabinet. My receiver was overheating, going to into Protect mode and shutting down. This device is smart, senses the temperature rising, kicks on 3 fans, sucking out the hot air in the receiver and out of the cabinet. Haven't had a problem since.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078PX4575/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s a Viborg record weight with a built-in bubble level I got off Amazon a year or two ago. Here’s the link to it: Viborg LP628B Record Weight Black 60HZ 280g LP Disc Stabilizer Turntable Level Vinyl Clamp HiFi (60Hz, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EX6FTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_GIjcGbDPSMCRA

All good, if you havent used older tech before it can be an affair. For futures sake, just popping in and posting "I want to do <this>, Help" doesnt get much actual help. This post Im replying to is a good start.. especially if I saw a "and I watched a this (linked) video on youtube, but I still have this problem (description).

So.. as a guess, the Mic port on the front is probably monoaural aka mono aka one channel.. which is why you're only getting a single channel.

K, just googled the deck.. nice unit, fancy for the time. Good news, it does have meters.. its those ladder lookin things to the left of the play buttons that light up when the decks on.

Im going to suggest you ignore the mic jacks and we plug into the rear with a headphone to 2 rca cable.. Like This

You'll plug that into either the amplifier in a spare set of input jacks.. or the Rec In jacks on the rear of the tape deck.

Outta curiosity.. does the deck work? Like.. if you have a cassette in and hit play.. do the reels move and, ideally, you get sound?

When you hit record, by the way, you generally have to hit play too.. as Record puts it in record mode, but doesnt engage play.. so you can setup the source before it starts actually recording.

Amazon has a ton of replacement ear pads of varying sizes. These were initially more of an on-ear type, but I like the over ear far better. I got these headphones off LetGo. Edit: for clarity.

You'll need to stick some RCA males onto the ends of your speaker wire. You can buy them from Amazon, or if you're really lazy you can even buy lengths of speaker wire with them already attached.

First off, kick ass find.

1. I would personally use the ground on the left side near the phono inputs, since you've mentioned the ground wire is in the same sleeve.

2. You can just snip off the ends off of something like this which came with my Sansui T60 Tuner.

3. Sounds remnant, though if I were to guess they were suggesting an earth ground or possibly an isolated ground, seeing as there was a potential back then that the actual two prong receptacle box that were common back then might not have been grounded at all.

~~Here's~~ ~~a DIN to female RCA.~~

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edit: recorder is not for a mic. It's for recording equipment, it was oddly common on this era stuff.

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Edit 2- see my other commend regarding phono in.

Wire coat hangers.

Strip off 6" of insulation from a 3 ft strand of speaker wire.

Aluminum foil twisted into animal shapes.

Doesn't take much :) There are lots of tutorials on figuring out the ideal length of wire, or any $5 pair of rabbit ears or something like these guys that come with every new piece of electronics that has a tuner: https://www.amazon.com/Bingfu-Antenna-Bluetooth-Receiver-Amplifier/dp/B07PNKKH97/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=radio+antenna+for+receiver&amp;qid=1662664158&amp;s=aht&amp;sr=1-6

I have some kind of square looking powered antenna on an NAD tuner and its set in the middle of the house where signal is weak and that thing pulls in everything.

>Could I buy a Lepai LP-2020 digital amp for these

I have no idea why you would when there are so many better amps in the world. I'd be the most afraid of underpowering them, which could generate tweeter-killing distortion. Why not get a used, well-regarded amp like an NAD 3020? Or if you insist on new, save up for a few months and get a basic Rotel, Yamaha or Cambridge Audio. Lepais are popular for their size, but really aren't that good.

as for the dents, I have had dented dust caps before and didn't notice anything, but your mileage may vary. Also you might be able to fix them.

Something you may want to consider, also, is these aren't the original woofers. the replacement may have been well thought out, but may not have. Any way you can preview these before getting too involved?

Got the record shelf and receiver/turntable stand at wal-mart. Ashamed, but I've had it for about 3 years and it's still holding strong. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Better-Homes-and-Gardens-8-Cube-Organizer-Multiple-Colors/29741111

Atlas DCA is probably your best bet but it's pricey. I own a DCA Pro, a considerably fancier unit.

There are some Chinese testers of higher quality than your HFT meter out there. http://hackaday.com/2015/04/24/review-transistor-tester/

Also, where did you purchase your ZTX694Bs? If you got them from an authorized distributor, my assertion that it is highly unlikely that you got an entire bad shipment stands. If not, all bets are off and you could have a bag of counterfeits.

Here is some advice. It appears that someone attempted to rebuild the Heathkit company a couple of years ago, but the efforts appear to have slowed a bit.

Looks like it's (probably) a tube amp. I don't know anything about tube amp restoration, but unlike most consoles, it might be worth something to someone. (There's more on the web, of course.)

I'm watching these in a local online auction that ends tonight and can't find any information about them at all. I know that Technics are not the greatest speakers, but the weird thing is that these have already been bid up higher than I would have expected -- and higher (at the moment, anyway) than an awesome Sansui integrated amp.

Either somebody else bidding knows something I don't, or they're significantly overvaluing these speakers. What am I missing?

EDIT: Found something similar on OfferUp that sold for $75: https://offerup.com/item/detail/507867245/

I'm just going to avoid these things.

Thanks! That's a metaphorical rats nest, and I see why you sent it out for restoration. I'm pretty sure mine's a 10S464, a sister of yours. My projects tend to linger. One of these days I'll get to my Zenith, as soon as I put this power amp back together and figure out the ground loop in this preamp...

I don't think so... There are generally 2 types of belts - "square belts" and "flat belts" - A lot of cassette decks use some of both, so you might be able to use those square belts elsewhere, but the belt running from the motor to the flywheel is definitely a flat belt. Here is an example amazon listing that claims to be flat belts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BYHLSBN/

One thing I would try before buying any new parts is to get a Q-Tip saturated with rubbing alcohol and get it playing and hold the cotton q-tip on the inside of the belt to clean it. After cleaning it, if it makes enough of a difference to start by itself a time or two, there's a good indication that replacing the belt is the right thing to do. (I am just guessing from a picture, so not 100% sure that's the problem...) If the belt is the problem, another "trick" is sometimes you just boil a belt in water for a minute or two and bring it back to life a little..

Older VCR's have the correct output, although if it has screw terminals on the back of the TV, you will probably need a simple 300-75 ohm adapter like this but they are cheap and easy to find. I have seen them in thrift store cable "misc bins" for like a quarter.

I actually am sitting on an opposite project, I have a Commodore 64 computer but want to connect it to my flat panel TV, again needs an oddball adapter.

Okay, in that case it sounds like it might actually be an issue with the turntable (or the cartridge) itself. Is that a Nagaoka MP-200 you have on it? What tracking force are you running it at? I believe the MP-200 is spec'd for best performance in the 1.5 - 2.0 gram range.

Other things to check... make sure the stylus itself physically looks okay. Make sure the stylus is securely fitted into the cartridge body. Check that the headshell is securely plugged into the tonearm and tightened. Inspect the interconnect wires in the headshell to make sure they're securely connected.

Do you have another cartridge and/or a spare headshell that you could swap in to test with? If not and you want something cheap to check with for $25 you can pick up an Audio Technica AT3600L cartridge premounted on a standard Technics-style headshell. You'll need to track it a little higher at 2.5 - 3.5g...

https://www.amazon.com/Gemini-HDCN-15-Turntable-Headshell-Cartridge/dp/B002SSA79G

Hard to tell much from the clip but my first suggestion would be to clean the input selector knob on your receiver and see if that gives any improvement. Pop the top off and (with the receiver unplugged) flood the control with a sprayable cleaner such as DeOxIt or CRC QD electrical contact cleaner (available at many Walmarts, auto parts stores, etc.) And work the selector back and forth vigorously. If that clears it up, great... if you hear some improvement but it's not completely cleared up try repeating until the issue clears up.

Beyond that, it could be an issue with the RIAA phono preamp section of the receiver. Failing transistors and old electrolytic capacitors are the most common points of failure.

You could try using a cheap external preamp to rule out an issue with the turntable itself and connect the preamp's output to the auxiliary or tape input on your receiver. The cheapest one on Amazon at the moment is this Pyle unit...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025742A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CFH04NXW0MQAXED53AR9

Fairly simple. You have 2 options:

Buy this if you are in the US:

GaoZo Speaker Wire To RCA Female Adapter, RCA Plug Cable，RCA Plug Adapter (Black/Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C29Q12L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GWTXG4SZK33Q5W5VEDP3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Or strip the RCA to bare wires:

https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/i905gm/can_i_cut_one_end_off_a_double_ended_rca_cable_to/?utm_source=share&amp;utm_medium=ios_app&amp;utm_name=iossmf

You can cut the male RCA plug off of the end of the cable and connect the bare leads inside the cable to the positive / negative speaker terminals on the back of the receiver.

You can search for a "female RCA to bare wire" adapter like this one if you don't want to cut any wires.

Others may suggest that speakers with those types of connectors are probably not worth salvaging. Are you certain of their impedance, and how the amp will react to the load?

Here is one that is cool...keep thinking I'm going to pick one up. It can either go 4 in 1 out or 4 out 1 in and can't beat the large VU meters. Might be more then you want to spend. Check it out here !

I think something like this could be used:

https://www.amazon.com/Fancasee-Replacement-Female-Connector-Repair/dp/B07Y8KR21P

I have a Technics SU-Z600 and it also runs very warm. That warm electronics smell you describe is what I would describe as 80s electronics smell, as all my Technics components smell that way for some reason.

I use something like this to help with temps when I am using my amp for long stretches of time.

female

male

You will be looking for a 300 ohm antenna

Not sure about the speakers, but these will help hook them up here

I had excellent luck with a fiberglass brush pen for getting in small textured areas and knobs and such. Be gentle though, you don't need to go too hard to get it shiny!

Fiberglass Scratch Brush Pen - 3 Pack - Jewelry, Watch, Coin Cleaning, Electronic applications, Removing rust and corrosion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S3RCTGZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_fabc_JFMRAEH6FZGQWW0XTPB8

Awesome! Its a beautiful piece, and much like a car, they don't like to sit unused for a long time. Glad to hear it still works!

A working system helps the value a little, as someone can immediately start enjoying it should you decide to sell it. If you decide to keep it, a little Howards Restore-A-Finish and Feed N Wax will do wonders for the cabinet, and a service to the turntable should have it all working.

Love the question as my kids were into music at that age and now seemingly have little interest (11 and 14 - all video games, all the time) despite my best efforts. My first thoughts is either some vintage or even modern mini system. Maybe something similar to below but w/ cassette as well? Just thinking out loud....

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https://smile.amazon.com/Philips-Bluetooth-Stereo-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B084G8G5G9/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&amp;keywords=stereo+system&amp;qid=1610113938&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMlZDQ1JSRENVQjBaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzkxNDk5MjJTTUNYVFU3RzlVTiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzQ5NzgwMzJaNkxCTkk4REo1SiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Could be. That and some tired capacitors are pretty common. Could even be just as simple as dirty controls. I, and many others on here, use and love DeoxIT, works great on scratchy switches and pots.

I bought a bunch of these. They work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4Z2JHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

These are the lamps that I used.

YITAMOTOR 194 LED Bulb Ice Blue, 194 T10 168 2825 W5W 175 158 Bulb 5050-5 SMD LED Light Bulb 12V Car Interior Lighting for Map Dome Lamp Courtesy Trunk License Plate Dashboard Parking Lights, 20-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YWXSL7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_0.vQFb7F9BZTR?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Don't use WD40. Get a can of Deoxit. Amazon has it. Deoxit Contact Cleaner Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_s0sVwbFPS1K2Y AudioKarma has a write-up on using that stuff. Very easy and helps a lot.

I have seen French Clete's used at work. They are really strong aren't going to vibrate. You can use one at the top of the speaker and one at the bottom. The one I am linking to at Amazon can be cut in half. The are also pretty available. Michael's craft store and wood working stores carry them.

OOK 55316 13-Piece Up to 200 Pound Hangman French Cleat with Hardware https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WE9XU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PmBpxbZNV7ECG

I have the same setup. On amazon the audio technic a turntable is a great replacement for the original. I removed mine and replace it with one of these turntable

https://www.amazon.com/XV15-Micro-Replacement-Pickering-Cartridges/dp/B008818RVW I think is the right one for the older XV-15. I own both the XV-15 and the XV-15/625E and they are not quite the same. The one on Amazon looks right though. Someone else confirm?

I restored one last year and have another in a box ready to restore. Many parts I bought on amazon as they were made for decades. https://www.amazon.com/TECHNICS-P-AM18201K1-replacement-SL1200MK2-Panasonic/dp/B01AJI0XTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517851967&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=technics+tonearm&amp;dpID=3183GGkxACL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch

I only paid 68 for my tonearm last year though. Brand new.

What you have is an RCA jack. There are plenty of YouTube videos about how to do it, but basically you're gonna strip the wire, jam it into a plug adapter and put that in the jack. Some of the more complex ones involved soldering and all that, but you can also find some on Amazon that just let you stick the wire into an adapter and then screw to tighten. Those work just fine if you have a wire that's thick enough.

Here's ones I've used: Conwork 6-Pack Phono RCA Male Plug to AV Screw Terminal Audio/Video Connector Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRQF72Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ARiSAb81Z7J0G

Amazon Bluetooth adaptor

I got this one from Amazon, works perfectly with my Kenwood KA-6000.

Just get a short spool of some 16 gauge wire from Home Depot or whatever the budget brands are at your local electronics store. Cheapest brand will do, especially if you're just testing. I think Amazon makes their own speaker wire as well.

You'll need a wire stripper like this.

Just strip off 1/4" of the insulation from each side using the "AWG" number of your wire (16 if you bought 16 gauge). Twist the coper and put them in the binding post of your receiver and speakers. Connect black to black, red to red... etc. And you're all good.

I follow. I don't know if that would work or not, and I don't have any spare banana plugs to try it with.

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The sleeves are 1/4 inch. got 100' of it from Amazon for $12.

I bought these plant stands from Amazon. They get them up about 6 inches from the floor. https://www.amazon.com/Mkono-Century-Flower-Planter-Included/dp/B07CKMP5RB/ref=pd_ybh_a_14?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BTQTRGPMFK7BK4B3575Z

I can not recommend the deer leather mat from Jake’s Turntable Mats enough. It doesn’t collect dust frequently and it looks so sharp.

Premium Leather Deer Hide Turntable Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDWHDSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h0JFbRMFNQ7R

https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-Female-Terminal-Connector-Adapter/dp/B078HY1WP1/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&amp;keywords=rca+jacks&amp;qid=1600360571&amp;s=aht&amp;sr=1-10 and dnrkthx is right

300 ohm antenna, cut off the spade connectors https://www.amazon.com/Ancable-Antenna-Terminal-Marantz-Receiver/dp/B07BGY21GZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=fm+radio+antenna+for+stereo+receiver&amp;qid=1599964094&amp;sprefix=fm+radio+antenna&amp;sr=8-4

I use these quite often. Just hooks into an aux, tape, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uaxtFbBTTB7XE

It does require its own power supply but most amps/receivers have them. It works especially way on a "switched" outlet off the amp so it turns on and off with it.

I have one of these JVC changers, it’s such a fun unit. Mine is model XL-MC100. Here’s a little hack: The coaxial cable from the big changer box outputs the digital signal (standard PCM 44.1 digital signal), so I have it hooked up to an external DAC. You just needed these little adapters to take the factory F type coax cable and make it fit a standard rca coaxial that you find on a more modern DAC (hooked up to a Topping E30, very noticeable upgrade in sound quality). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N80QQ1F/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_.zApFb2A50PE0

Knowing older Magnavox stereos, the gray pair of male RCAs plug in to the old turntable from the phono input on the console’s amplifier. The plugs on the right are from the new turntable.

The short answer is that you need a pair of female to female RCA inline plugs to plug them together. The longer answer involves whether or not the console’s amplifier will like the output from your newer turntable. Might work though.

Something like this.

I know that you are just showing him an example, but I'd steer him more toward something that isn't driving those beautiful receivers into a device with its own scratchy potentiometer. More like: https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Audio-Charger-Headset/dp/B004TBF90C?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

Here you go.

I got that same cart (AT85) a few months ago. Mine came with a carbon fiber brush, but amazon isn't selling that combo anymore. Here's a combo pack with the cart, a stylus brush, and a VTF scale. It's not as good of a pack IMO (how many times are you gunna use the scale?) but, $3 more for the stylus brush and a scale to make sure your old table is still proper, isn't bad.

I've found that it's handy to have a cheap trim removal tool set (Amazon example) for situations like this and much more. The plastic is flexible and likely to be non-damaging (depending on the situation).

The stereo shop I used to check out as a kid in the 80s had this line of Sony Amps and Tape players, I love the design that Sony went with. If you want to make a big improvement to the sound you should check out these speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker-System/dp/B07SLLY6Z3/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1H26R9TCES2RA&amp;keywords=sony+sscs5&amp;qid=1671143353&amp;sprefix=Sony+SSC%2Caps%2C80&amp;sr=8-1

They are widely reviewed on Youtube. I bought them a few months ago and absolutely love the sound.

This one is better and simpler as well. It claims you can do USB, I've never seen that. It costs less too and it supports 4k. If I had to choose, I would go with something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6834NGR/

My take is that if your friend wants a music player with Bluetooth, then get a music player with Bluetooth. If your friend wants vintage then get something vintage and make a bunch of old skool mixtapes. Mixtapes weren't just a way to have a variety of music; it was often a gift to someone you liked: it showed artistry and care and love in song selection.

Regarding the battery, what do you mean by retrofit it with a battery? Boomboxes were made to be battery operated and portable.

With that said, the easiest/cheapest way to mod a boombox for BT is to get a working (including battery operation) boombox with external input (e.g. aux or tape in) then plug in a simple BT receiver (there are various types). A phone can be paired to the receiver and now you have a streaming boombox. A step up from a BT receiver would be to get a streamer which is controlled by your phone, but plays over WiFi so it's not lossy like BT. If you don't want the receiver/streamer dangling off then you can Velcro it onto the back.

One could open up a boombox and mod it with a built-in streamer and/or BT receiver but that's a big project it sounds like that's not your area of expertise so let's not go there.

"aux to aux" ? : thinking you mean a 3.5mm stereo headphone plug at each end of a cable - such as used in an automobile stereo for "aux in" connection - but am drawing blanks as to how that could possibly help you plug into a 1994 Sony receiver that won't have a 3.5 mm headphone jack aux-in. That receiver has red and white RCA inputs for "sources".

You're kind of skipping around all over the place. Take a breath and listen.

The picture you linked to of a cord on your pant leg with the 3.5mm headphone jack to red and white RCA is what everyone's been telling you can be used. But again, don't get carried away cranking the volume on the phone or player that you connect through it, or you'll regret it soon enough.

You're always able to use the big volume knob on the receiver to your whimsy, that is fine to turn up and down as loud as you're able. Just don't turn the phone or MP3 player that is the source of the music up so loud that it damages the inputs of the Sony Receiver.

This little inexpensive type thing might be handy - bluetooth receiver - that plugs into either 3.5mm headphone aux-in (like in a car) OR has a lil adapter for RCA jacks for back of stereo. Then bluetooth your phone or whatever to it and it's 100% safe. There are many others like it. Ya Dig ??

https://www.amazon.com/Golvery-Bluetooth-Receiver-Advanced-A2DP/dp/B01MXF6HFS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=37VLHMMAW6AUD&amp;keywords=aux+bluetooth+receiver+RCA&amp;qid=1670262543&amp;sprefix=aux+bluetooth+receiver+rca%2Caps%2C277&amp;sr=8-3

I found the schematic, it's a 10a 250v fuse. I replaced it with another 7a 250v and it blew immediately. I should of known better and not put in the 10a 250v in there but I did and there were sparks over by VR03 in that photo. I think VR03 itself sparked and maybe the cap next to it. That fat resistor by VR01 grew red as well.

I should of heeded your earlier warnings about not using the unit and stopped everything after the first fuse blew :(. Now I'm sure it is cost prohibitive to repair.

I would recommend adding an active crossover, and utilize the pre/power amp loop. Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00102VWJK

Pioneer Pre-out --> Crossover input Crossover High out --> Pioneer Power Amp In Crossover mono low (single RCA, pick one) --> Subwoofer input

Thank you, this is very useful! Big issue is how to convert the cord wires into RCA for me.

All I have is one of these: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Systems-Filtro-convertidor-B65N-sistemas/dp/B000LP4RMQ/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;crid=11IEBKHSDZ6J4&amp;keywords=boss+impedance+converter&amp;qid=1669433234&amp;sprefix=boss+impedance+con...

I have one of these lying around... would it help?

You would need something like this.

To install... 1. Remove and disconnect woofer to access crossover on inside back of cabinet 2. Desolder fuse holder (two connections) 3. Remove fuse holder cap on outside back of cabinet 4. Remove nut on fuse holder inside cabinet 5. Install new fuse holder, nut, and cap 6. Resolder new fuse holder in crossover 7. Connect and reinstall woofer

Turntable

Audio Technica Lp60

Perfect entry table for a good price, very popular and often recommended for starters. Includes phono preamp.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP60X-BK-Belt-Drive-Hi-Fidelity-Anti-Resonance/dp/B07N3XJ66N/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=VT4HK16WY6CE&amp;keywords=turntable&amp;qid=1668750037&amp;sprefix=turntable%2Caps%2C183&amp;sr=8-4

Amp

100 watt 2 channel stereo w/ Bluetooth

I use this for a simple set up in my living room and it does the trick well enough. There’s definitely better options out there, but for $20 it works. You will need a power supply for it, it doesn’t come with one.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Audio-Receiver-Amplifier-Fosi/dp/B087FSGRLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?crid=18V96YOBXL7B7&amp;keywords=stereo+amplifier+fosi&amp;qid=1668750214&amp;sprefix=stereo+amplifier+fosi%2Caps%2C236&amp;sr=8-21

Oh and by the way: the connectors at the back are DIN standard, as usual with most German equipment from the sixties and army seventies.

The left and right loudspeaker DIN sockets are two-pole with one 'flat' piece and a rond piece. These can easily be connected to a 'normal' two-wire loudspeaker cable by using tscrew-on connectors like these:

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Screw-Loudspeaker-Connector-Protection-Casing/dp/B00C7R653U/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=din+lautsprecherstecker

The 5-Pin connectors are also DIN and offer both left and right line-level signals. You can easily find adapter cables from 5-pin DIN to two RCA tulip connectors on Amazon.

What about instead: https://www.amazon.com/IsoBlock-Silicone-Isolation-Feet-Capacity/dp/B075KN3Q7V/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=DW7900J6UN32&amp;keywords=anti%2Bvibration%2Bfeet%2Baudio&amp;qid=1668021785&amp;sprefix=antiVibration%2Bfeet%2Caps%2C134&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;smid...

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Rubber-Renue/dp/B09HZ1FPHV

It's expensive relative to the amount you will use. It will however soften up the rubber on the idler wheel back to "as new". Rubber my reharden though over the next few years. Repeat as needed.

Idler style TT's are notorious for hardened & sclerotic grease. Lighter fluid (naptha) however cleans it right off and won't damage wiring or painted surfaces. You can then regrease everything with a product like Super Lube or similar light synthetic grease.

I’d switch the amp and tape deck locations to give the amp some more space to breathe. Otherwise I’d just add a cheap Bluetooth receiver so you can stream to it.

Is it something other than standard 8 pin DIN?

https://smile.amazon.com/Oiyagai-Connectors-Black-Plastic-Handle/dp/B07DWSPTBG

This will work just fine. You can add some DIY to it.

These look like KLH Model 19. They don't have much bass but they're alright for a small system. They use two 4.5" drivers that fortunately don't have a crossover that or foam surround that disintegrate with age. You'll need to adapt the RCA input for speaker cables with something like these.

They look like they are in great condition and it seems like a fair price.

Do *not* use regular WD-40. They do make a different product that is meant for cleaning electrical contacts:

https://smile.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU

If you had a valuable vintage receiver I would say spend the extra money for the best product, but for the D-11 it shouldn't be a big deal. You can also disassemble the discman enough to ensure that you get as little overspray on the board as possible, whereas potentiometers in an old receiver might be located in places where overspray is unavoidable.

aside from the snarky comments, placing an approved vertical scratching solution nearby should solve for most of this.

If you do catch it happening, yelling and lunging at them are natural reactions but don't actually correct the behavior. Calmly get up and move them to the approved scratcher and encourage them to do it there.

Cats need lots of options for scratching, hiding, sleeping, and especially love vertical places.

This scratch post has lasted me years and saved my speakers: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000634MH8?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

yeah i’ve noticed lmao. i have a pair of Sony SS-CS5 and a pair of Klipsch SF-2s hooked up and they can’t even keep up. it’s a powerful little thing i’ll tell u what. the only thing is that when the volume is low i seem to lose a lot of fidelity that i had with my sony amp. decisions, decisions….

Here you go https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-KIT19001-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G

It's a can of compressed air with a motion sensor. You set it up so it looks at a small section in front of it, the moment something walks there it spits out a fast poof of air that scares the ever loving fuck out of cats.

I set them in front of my speakers for about a month. The cats showed interest in the grill like this but once that ssscat sprayed, they stay clear. I dont even have these cans setup in front of the speaker anymore. Sometimes one of them will find a new place on the carpet to piss on (house used to have a dog living in it, now they think it's hidden in the shadows or something) so I'll clean up the pee, set one of these things up, and it doesn't return to that spot to pee or mark it anymore.

Easiest would be a 300 ohm dipole, attached to the correct connections on the rear panel.

$6.99 at Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Bingfu-Terminal-Bluetooth-Receiver-Amplifier/dp/B07MG2XYR6/

Auris Blume HD Long Range Bluetooth 5.0 Music Receiver Hi-Fi Audio Adapter with Audiophile DAC &amp; AptX HD for Home Stereo, AV Receiver or Amplifier

I've been using this J-Tech Digital ® Premium Quality RCA L/R Analog Audio to Optical SPDIF/Coaxial Digital Converter for about 8 years, well worth the 20 bucks.

These are quite a find nowdays, so I would not sell them if I were you. They were manufacured in Germany in relatively small batches from carefully selected components. Something like this would be decent and cost effective solution to drive speakers like that.

https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-D03-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Amplificador/dp/B098QSPJJG

I’m currently using Kirksater Monitor 120 as the main speakers in my system, and I so not intend to move or sell them anytime soon. I hope that you did not sell yours. However, it would be good to test them an see if they’re ok before imvesting in any amp/dac or cables.

Or you could buy some that are pre made like this. Link

If your speakers don't have banana jacks you can just cut the connectors off one end.

Yup, all you have to do is strip the cable's insulating jacket back, twist the bare copper wire, trim it until there the insulator is flush the with body of the banana jack, you don't want any exposed wire hanging out, after there are screws on the banana jack you tighten down, then you're done!

I use these ones Amazon link

The outer body screws off and there's two screws that tighten down on the cable.

You can use these adapters to connect your speaker wire.

Five amps for a little mixer? Does that thing have tubes? :-)

Here's a 5-pack of the 1-1/4" variety:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-Slow-Blow-Fuse/dp/B00TEFBH22

Always good to have a few on hand while you figure out why the first one blew.

A de-humidifier will help. Sold at Lowes or Home Depot. ~$200-300. They pull moisture from the the air in enclosed spaces. You'll need to be prepared to empty the collector tank, so it does require some attention.

https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-High-Humidity-Capacity-Dehumidifier/dp/B07Z5PY294?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&amp;ref\_=fplfs&amp;smid=A3D3JPOZ4ATOCB&amp;th=1

Get something like this. I use one and it works great.

Would this https://www.amazon.com/ZRM-Splitter-Adapter-Universal-Converter/dp/B07H4DMPRC/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?crid=3FDE3HABCUFQY&amp;keywords=bt+adapter+with+rca+out&amp;qid=1658792988&amp;sprefix=bt+adapter+with+rca+out%2Caps%2C108&amp;sr=8-13#aw-udpv3-customer-... and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B094VWJQ15?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title work?