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The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/Dualsport:
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The most popular reviews in /r/Dualsport:
Am I reading that this is a street legal bike I can buy on Amazon for $1500?
https://www.amazon.com/brings-Enduro-Street-Motorcycle-Handgrip/dp/B07Q8KFJKP
Deets please
Your petcock is leaking, though it seems like the petcock itself is fine, the gasket attaching it to the tank has failed. Probably just need a new gasket, take a good look at the rest of the assembly when you remove it, if isn't leaking you probably don't need to replace the whole thing. 'Course a repro petcock is only 10 bucks on Amazon so it's not a huge expense to replace the whole thing.
Bodywork and paint ain't my thing, I'll let someone else tackle that.
Been looking for a small bag for my DR and found this gem (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVCPRJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on amazon. Perfect for holding tools/wallet/beers, just strapped it down to the rear fender bars, happy riding!
http://www.ehow.com/info_7750535_yamaha-dt-125-information.html
The DT series started as the Yamaha Motor Company's answer to a lack of off-road motorcycles in the late 1960's. The "DT" is known to stand for "dirt" or "dirt-trail."
It's part of their on/off road lineup then it's a dualsport. An antique with less than modern suspension technology but still built for dual use.
Check out this Nelson Rigg bag for your rack. I really like it on my KLR 250. It's not gigantic but it fits my essentials of sunglasses, ROK straps, extra shift lever, and compressor with room to spare. Plus it can expand if you need it to.
“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.”
― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values
Personal I think the survey matches my experience.
But there's not anything bulletproof, you need to maintain bikes.
My best bet is anything Japanese.
I strap one of these to my rack. Saw it somewhere else in one of these Reddits. They come in all different sizes. They are cheap. Waterproof. I put reflective stickers all over it. They have a good holding capacity. There are tie down spots. I use Rik Straps to secure them. Makes a great trunk.
I live pretty close to the Shenandoah National Park / George Washington National Forest, and have been perusing OpenStreetMaps for some nice fireroads and the like to take my svart 401 down. today was Howardsville Turnpike, which was in amazingly good shape. so i had to take a detour down a national park road on the way home too, which i think was maybe supposed to be closed. (there was a gate, but it was open).
I am wondering what people are using for mounting. My GPS is waterproof and tough as nails, and I did not feel like dropping the coin on a RAM mount, so I took the front reflector off of a bicycle and stripped the reflector portion off of it. Ran a screw through the tab that used to hold the reflector into the GPS and mount it to my handlebar. For $0, it has performed very well.
I have lost the GPS during a ride only once after not screwing it into the GPS as tight as I should have. After running a series of whoops, I realized I had lost it and started backtracking. I found it face down in a mud puddle, running just fine - as if nothing had happened.
I found a link that describes it. this guy took it to the next level. I will have to look this over and maybe mod my mount a bit.
Why not through the US, choosing a southerly route up into BC?
As someone has said, you're going to get bored. I can attest to most of your Dakota jaunt, and eastern MT, being a forced march of sorts. I haven't done a ride through ON and the prairie provinces.
This preserves your VA, Glacier and PDX stops and continues to avoid highways. The ride will be more enjoyable in terms of variegated scenery. And ... US fuel prices.
No offense to Amarillans, but I personally find the TX panhandle flat and boring. Maybe the interstate for a bit through OK and TX?
^We're ^in ^ABQ. ^She ^Who ^Must ^be ^Obeyed ^may ^agree ^to ^B&B ^service.
It is a little hard to see here which is the point, but you can make it out. The TW has a crimped edge tank too and to me always looked unfinished. So I bought this off amazon and it worked great.
I had a portable power bank protective case that I installed with the OEM bolt holes and some longer bolts and large washers to hold it down. Here’s one similar on Amazon. Probably a bit small for your setup but it does help to show that a protective case is cheap and effective. Food for thought.
H4 LED Motorcycle Headlight Bulb Hi/Lo Beam 9003 Bulb 2500 Lumens White 6000k CSP Chips LED Car Headlight H4 Headlamp 1:1 Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QBYFVX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N2YE30Y92XZZTSCHVG3T
They do have this app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=gov.usda.fs.gtac.ivm
I don't see how it negatively impacts other apps, I think the OP is blowing things out of proportion. Both the website and app are aimed at getting users acquainted with USFS recreation options near them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3SJ699/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_8NCUFbGS6WD5J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My spoon kit came with little rim protector pieces that have works pretty well at protecting the wheels. There are 3d printable versions on thingiverse if you have access to a printer
I have a Tusk Brake Light undertail with a KTM license plate holder drilled through. (The KTM plate holder has a KTM sticker but is removeable)
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-l.e.d.-taillight-brake-light-under-fender-p
Yeah the XT is born with a big hairy wart on its ass. Sadly, some of it is hard welded into the frame, it isn't super easy to eliminate. Most of us just live with it. The only up-side I can give is that at least it's strong enough you can tie big shit to it. My 2015 XT250 is identical to this save the Yamaha blue. I have the small Rubbermaid Action Packer tied to the lift handles, and around the hard steel pipe that hides inside that rubber cover bridging from the frame to the tail light. The box is tied down with very strong string (think like starter pull cord but a bit thinner), and it's an indestructible mount. Seriously could never break off. Normally you need to buy a rack to get that strength. The ugly tail light assembly is that strong.
Someone showed me Avenza PDF Maps at Victory Sandwich last Tuesday. The interface is refined and modern. Looks good, can't wait to try it.
That sucks. I figured it was inevitable the days there were numbered. Now that I have my giant loop I am going to start riding up to the north georgia mountains more to camp.
BTW, sand dunes video: https://vimeo.com/96764472
Time Lapses are indeed a bitch to make - I use Adobe Premiere Pro for my video editing - only because thats the one program I know how to use. It takes FOREVER to import and organize all of the fucking images. And the aspect ratio is off for HD video and the 3;4 photos - why I tried NTSC for this video but the quality seems iffy. But I didn't want my photos cut in half... Still learning!
Then the the WR250R is for you. I have both and the only time I recommend a DRZ is if you are doing a) primarily street riding with supermoto wheels and b) want to put money into the motor to make it scream. I ride very aggressively on the street, so I need that extra power that scares me now and again, but when I ride normally, the WR is more than plenty (still does fun wheelies!) but the WR is also much better offroad. It feels like a real dirtbike. Best of all, it is FUEL INJECTED. That is a huge selling point for me, and I will be surprised if I ever get rid of that bike. I'm taking it to canada soon for a multi day adventure ride with the big boys :)
Here is a guy that rode his wr250r across the country https://vimeo.com/simonpig
Here's a new route based on my previous comment.
I bought a new KLR in June and have loved every mile in the saddle. Inexpensive, rock solid and simple. It's the bike that does everything, just nothing especially well. ;)
When people are modifying your dual-sport for use by the military using JP-8, you're doing something right.
When I first learned to wrench on bikes I got a Cyclepedia subscription. Scroll to the bottom, your bike is there. I can't recommend this enough. It's walk throughs of everything you will ever need to do that include full color and highly detailed photos of each part of the process and a list every tool you will need to complete each job; that's a section of the carburetor disassembly section for my KLX .
I got the lifetime subscription and have used this many dozens of times. It does such a good job of teaching you what you need that I am able to wrench on my other bikes without any manual at all with the exception of specifications for clearance or torque etc... It's REALLY nice to have everything you need right there without having to spend hours searching the interwebs :)
So I like to work on things and hate searching through a mountain of sketchy interweb threads looking for it and if you are this person as well, I would recommend getting a cyclepedia.com subscription. I think I paid like $39.99 for a lifetime subscription and I love it. 40 bucks for the best manual you'll ever need that comes with live support. I emailed them at 9:30pm with a brake issue, they called me on the phone at 8:30am the next day. It's the only time I've used that feature, but damn. It's worth the peace of mine alone.
Anyway, you're right about them being very close to the same bike. Here is a screenshot of my manual boy does that bike look familiar lol.
TL;DR: Yep, most parts will fit and probably that sweet Acerbis tank too, a proper manual is a sweet thing, just do it.
Edit: just because I was here already, here is the kind of instruction you'll get https://www.screencast.com/t/J3Rezcm7 . It's a long way from black and white technical drawings with numbers and lines everywhere.
To record it: http://voipcallrecording.com/MP3_Skype_Recorder
You may want to to a test call with that one as I don't have any personal experience with it.
As for questions.... Well I can give you a few un-original ones:
>-What was the hardest part of preparing for the Dakar?
>-What worries you the most about undertaking the Dakar?
>-What are your thoughts on moving the Dakar to South America?
>-How did you go about prepping your bike for the Dakar?
>-How did you go about prepping your self mentally for the Dakar?
I bought these a year ago https://www.amazon.com/HWK-Motorcycle-Pants-Waterproof-All-Purpose/dp/B0821C8FCQ/ref=sr\_1\_6?crid=RLL7IQ68AG3A&dchild=1&keywords=hwk+motorcycle+pants&qid=1631974612&sprefix=hwk+%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-6 , they're pretty good. They've got waterproof liners that zip out (I leave them out from my southwest area i ride in). comfy and nice vents that can be closed. They've got "CE Armor" in the knees and hips. I have regular dirtbike pants, but wanted something with padding and more robust material when i got more into dual sport. I also have the sidici Marco mesh pants and jacket which are nicer but cost more. I'd say take a good look at the hwk brand, they seem to have decent stuff and it's affordable
guys, try these. https://www.amazon.com/Ohropax-Wax-Ear-Plugs-Plug/dp/B0006NXBVQ
they are great. They don't stick inside your ears, so they avoid numerous related problems. They never get moved out of place/unsealed when I put a helmet on. They are super, super comfortable. I've used many different kind of earplugs and these are my favorite now (better than the special kind that block certain frequencies only)
I agree with the use of carabiner straps. I use these:
Never use a hook-shaped anything, anchor point or tiedown. Unless you can zip tie or otherwise make sure it won't come unhooked when slacked.
I pull my bikes on a trailer behind my truck camper and before I got the rear view camera the only way I could see them is to look at my shadow. Yeah not great. So my solution is to make the tiedown system so redundant that there would have to be multiple failures for a bike to fall off. I use the type of front wheel chock that clamps down on the front wheel (Motosport clamping wheel chock). They claim it will hold a bike without tiedowns, but I have the Pro Taper tiedowns on the bikes as well. The rear wheel is held down with a short kayak strap through anchor points bolted to the trailer on either side of the rear wheel. They have never moved and I never worry about them moving while driving.
This one stood up to multiple falls and very rough terrain.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWDCSIZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I recommend oury grips, they’re nice and thick, cut down vibration and add some circumference for bigger hands. Can get them on Amazon too Oury Black OSCROG10 Road/Street Motorcycle Grip https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CLR3TF3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_JPJKZ8P5RPYDANATBCP7
Amazon 1/4" ID fuel line, it fit the petcock barb perfectly snug, but was really tight on the carb. I used a razor blade to cut a small chamfer in the inside edge of the line to get it started and was able to stretch it on. The filter is nice because it has both 1/4" and 5/16" barbs on each end, just cut off the smaller one if using the larger. So it would be easy to run different sizes of fuel line.
The bike shares like 80% if not more parts from the KLX250 so you can search around for similar parts. I use the T-Rex skid plate and it is pretty tough. It has taken some bashing in South Utah and I have not had any issues:
https://www.t-rex-racing.com/All-KLX-250-s/1877.htm
I have this precision rack and side panels: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSZ5QGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_X4FG5V1N1RKEG806HBDY
However, I am not really a fan of the side panels, they are super flimsy.
The light bar is this on amazon. My buddy put the other one on his drz. The brackets are two pieces of scrap steel which attach to one lower triple clamp bolt each. All I used to make it was a vice, angle grinder, and drill.
I like trail riding too much to get get on a 650. I ordered the Bill Blue kit from the website you posted a link for. I have ridden the 351 with a stock carb and with Bill Blue's $400 kit and both are pretty fun. But since I had some Amazon gift cards stored up I spent $260 on this Mikuni TM36-68. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GZQ6HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bill Blue told me I won't get as good of gas mileage with it, but I don't ride more then 80 mile days anyways. I discovered that since I have handlebar risers and this new carb has the cable connection on the left instead of the right, my throttle cable was too short. I just had to order 4 inch longer custom throttle cable from motion pro and am waiting at my mailbox for it to show up so I can ride.
This fits on my KLX. Stays attached off road, some of the screws loosened up after the first 50 miles but I re-tightened them and haven't had problems since (~400 miles).
It's a little tricky to fit, look through the review pictures on the amazon page to see how other people with dual sports installed it.
It was a Christmas present last year that I finally got around to putting together. I've not messed around with Lego's since I was kid, and the kit was a blast to put together. It was challenging at some moments but the Lego iPad app was amazing to reference.
I am not sure why my family got the kit, but I found it on Amazon LINK:
It's an ATD. I found it on Amazon under $200. Made by a company called Safeguard. The first one I received was all beat up and missing components, pretty clear it had been out of the box and just shoved back in there. The replacement was new. The guy from the manufacturer was pretty mad about the situation and was very cool about making sure I got a good replacement. I am very happy with the stand and would recommend, even though it was a bit of an ordeal.
An idea for your SPOT is to get a ID armband amazon example for your forearm. I used to put mine in the same place for tracking reception but it's possible to get separated from your bike on passes like that!
They're actually just some cheapo $20 mirrors from Amazon. They feel pretty solid and they're fairly adjustable though. I'm pretty happy with them!
It's an ancient art passed down from KLR rider to KLR rider. I recently came into some money, so I splurged on the $60 locking trunk from Amazon. Thankfully, it still retains the all-plastic soul of the milk crate. However, it is fancy enough that all my friends keep calling me things like, "moneybags," and asking me to buy them gas or lunch...
The range is around 120 miles. I reset the trip odometer when I fill it and then re-fill after it hits 100 miles just to have some room for error. When I ride way out there, I bring some spare fuel in a fuel container which increases the range another 30 miles. btw, I'm 185 lb.
Yeah, I fully agree this is about utility not fashion. I don't mind the big tail light too much either, and fully agree the goal is to be impossible to miss. To that end, I upgraded with a painfully bright red LED bulb. I now almost feel sorry for people behind me. However, I do also have some of them newfangled LED turn signals, and I will be putting them in too eventually. They are very bright, and they self sequence (no more flasher relay needed), with pulsing/flowing yellow for the turn signals, the movement is very eye catching. And they do double duty when not signaling a turn, the rears turn red as extra brake lights, and the fronts run white as front markers. Should be even harder to miss.
Aloha Riders,
I want to add a second LED tail light this one, to the back of my panniers. The stock light is slightly hidden and I want to be seen.
Questions:
Can I simply wire the new one into the old one? Integrate it basically, or will I have voltage problems? Do I need to change a fuse?
Will I need to wire in a resistor since the new one is LED?
Thanks for your time, any help is greatly appreciated.
Ride Safe!
I've heard good things about this one. It has several design differences compared to the harbor freight model.
These have been with me through 14,000 miles of dual sporting.
This is probably a good time of year to find another sale on goggles.
Once you find a brand you like, you tend to stick with them. If you like the O'Neil brand, just look for the best buy in the style you prefer.
My last pair were some Scott Goggles with the light sensitive lenses, I might have found some on sale. Some people don't like the fact that they make take a few seconds to lighten/darken but my light sensitive eyes don't care, they like them!
I really wish they still made gradient lenses, dark at the top and clear at the bottom which were the best IMO since you could see the trail obstacles immediately in front of you but when you entered bright sun they still protected you. I guess they were too difficult to produce or not popular enough...
I just uploaded the '95 Kawa catalogue as well, which has the KLR650 in it. All of them are in pdfs here
I had a mostly bald rear tire upon arriving in Grant, CO. So while most of the HUBB guys took off for further riding I stopped by a local shop in Buena Vista after crossing the first pass. Sean at Mountain Tech Motorsports in BV is a nice guy and usually has a 130/90-17 D606 in stock.
Also, here's my GPX from the weekend if anyone wants to retrace some routes. CO-9 towards Cañon City is beautiful. And there's an easy dirt shortcut that cuts out Walsenburg between CO-69 and US-160 (so easy RT1200's could do it). Imogene was tough with luggage so I'd probably recommend taking 550 north out of Durango if you have a loaded bike. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Ob07nlBK5-d1kzbUNEVWlJcm8/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks for the links guys! Posting a comment so I can find later. I will also post a link to my vimeo account - hardly "must watch" stuff but you might enjoy Ride with Mike or some of the other ride videos.
I have been using those cheap cast steel pegs from china, without springs for the last 10 years. Steel is not high strength, have bent one in an off. But these have been affordable, maybe 20$ and lasted. Large platform for standing too. look like these, not sure what bike ones I picked, measurement is same as other bikes. https://www.amazon.com/HTT-Motorcycle-Gunmetal-CRF100F-Kawasaki/dp/B00XIT8VJC/ref=sr\_1\_7?keywords=klr+650+foot+pegs&qid=1668874954&sr=8-7
Mileage is more than the tire, it's how you ride. The cupping on the front might be the result of hard braking. 5000 miles isn't terrible, I've gotten 2000 or less. That mileage seems OK if you like the tires. Those short knobs make for a good 50/50 tire.
As far as the noise, wear ear plugs or look to get additional cheek padding or similar for your helmet that might help with the unavoidable noise. Helmets have a lot to do with how noise is transmitted.
hey man Im in a really similar boat... been scouring craigslist and fb market for a good deal.... my biggest problem is figuring out what engine size i want .... almost all of the 250cc bikes fit my bill for trail riding but some of the sligtly bigger engines 350-650 look good as well and seem to age sligtly better. im pretty set on this old 1995 dr250se, but really like others like the honda cfr 250l , yamaha wr250, zuki dr650, klr 650 ect. my budget is about max 5 grand with all gear included, but hoping more for like 3grand. the bike im looking at is older but has low milage and was owned by a moto shop guy who put in some nice modifications, pummper carb, new exauhst, new shocks , gaurds and bash plate, etc. hes trying to sell for 1850 let me know what yall think ... heres a link to the bike. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/646869379292413
This small one from Amazon has worked well for me the past two years. It only gets up to about 30 psi, but that's plenty to make it home. It'll plug straight into your battery tender, too.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B082XT6J8F/ One for water, one for Seafoam - I don't entirely trust all gas station fuel.
I never bought side panniers. Cost is too much and the longest I ride for are weekends now. Plenty of space in the soft bag on top. Keeps it lean for trips like this when I need to shed the weight at basecamp.
You can certainly drive an LED bulb from AC. Get a meter and make sure the output is at least 12Vac, and check these out. I used them on a pull start cultivator. They make other ones as well that might be better suited.
Gripping tape?
Never tried it but I think it should help keeping you on the bike with less knee pressure and it's much cheaper than Steg pegs.
https://www.amazon.ca/Factory-Effex-04-2550-Black-Sheet/dp/B00A0NSCM0?th=1&psc=1
That'll almost fit the clone with just a little work, but not a real Grom, so it needed to be welded, or at least that's how we solved the problem.
There were weld on folding tips for bikes that you could just replace the tip broken in a crash or for bikes like yours that didn't have one made for them, if you can find one,
Also good when you shifter was just a little too short for your big foot, you could extend the shifter just a bit...
Good luck finding one today. If you have an old junkyard nearby, someone working there will probably do the welding ifor you on the spot for not much ;-)
I've jetted dozens and dozens of bikes, the XT350 was the most frustrating of all. Due to the vacuum secondary carb nothing can be done to make it work 'great', but I got my bike to start first kick every time.
First of all, the bike runs lean from the factory. It's hard to rectify since the secondary carb is controlled by vacuum and can't be adjusted. Drill out the brass plug over the A/F screw so you can back it out, and plan on going up a size or two on the pilot and main jet. https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Enduro-Sigma-Custom-Carburetor/dp/B006QZETQ4
All motorcycles only have one adjustment screw for jetting, it controls the ratio when the throttle it closed. Start by adjusting that screw for a good ratio at idle, then work your way up through the jets. The jets come into play as you open the throttle 1/4,1/2, and not from RPM. Raising or lowering the needle effects all throttle positions so it's handy for changing elevations.
The NC headphones I've tried all seem to not handle wind noise that well. For me it was all about trying different style ear plugs until I found ones that worked well.
These work well for me: 3-Pair RTSFUS30HP - Howard Leight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037F92RC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I was considering going for some custom ear plugs, until I found the above plugs, as a lot of people have great success there too.
Good luck finding your solution.
Depending on the bike I'm riding it goes in the fanny pack, backpack, or in the bag on the rear motorcycle rack.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0736JWRMG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the cheap alternative to doubletakes. I've had mine on for a year and drop the bike often they've never had a problem being dropped while folded. My buddy left his open and of course it broke the first drop, but that's why you're looking for folding mirrors. I leave them just loose enough to be able to fold without adjusting any screws and have never had a problem with hem shifting while riding or anything. I've seen people replace the allen key with a wing nut so you can adjust by hand, and use some gasket sealer on the ball joint because they said they rotated at speed but I've never had any issues at all.
https://www.amazon.com/KYN-DR650SE-Motorcycle-DualControl-Enlarger/dp/B09B2MZWXV
This is one I used on my DR650. You use the lower part when seated, and the upper part when standing. I also put a different one on my GS which I love.
I was not a fan of leaving the airbox cover off as many did, I added these on the top and sides and it was sufficient, the air filter remained much cleaner. Along with the jetting kit that was available at the time, I forget who distributed them, it was primarily because the bikes were delivered a little leaner than what other countries were getting.
If you can find the jetting specs for bikes of that year that were delivered to countries that did not have our more restrictive emissions rules (Australia, Canada?) you might see a different jetting setup. Sorry I don't remember what kit it was but i'd guess someone still makes them? Not certain if it was dynojet.
I agree with everyone here saying that's sketchy as hell. I use the non-folding aluminum black widow hitch carrier on my Tahoe (700lb tongue weight, frame mounted hitch) with my WR250R which weighs about the same as your KLX230, and it's pretty rock solid. While I wouldn't want to be as close to the limit of the hitch as you are, even without the super extended length you've got, if you're OK with modifying the components you've got I'd try to eliminate as much of the extra length as I could. Cut off most of the post of the black widow and drill a new pin hole so that the wheel track sits flush with the raised hitch adaptor. It also looks like you could lose a couple inches on the raising adaptor. All of this would bring the bike much closer to the car and help reduce the moment on the hitch of the car. I'd also get two of these for the carrier and adaptor and ditch the black widow quieter which is junk.
On mine I have a battery tender ring terminal connector that I extended the wires on (but you could get a longer one) then I get a battery tender USB port and I ran it up to my tank bag, I can provide pictures if you want.
There is a tool specifically for this sort of thing. Motion Pro makes one, but I have the Chinese knockoff which seems to work well enough.
It's a long handled screwdriver with a 90 degree bend in it and a flexible shaft that runs up the middle. You twist the handle end and it twiddles the screwdriver tip on the other end. This is more of a work-on-it-in-the-garage sort of thing, obviously.
Otherwise... The pilot jet mixture screws are generally the same or similar across the same brand or family of carb. Even if the specific fast adjustment screw is not available from that brand anymore, any generic one for the same brand of carb should work. Like, say, this one. I believe the KLX250 uses a Keihin CVK34 carb, and every Keihin carb I've ever taken apart has the same thread and needle tip on the pilot mixture screw. I currently have a fast adjustment screw "for a Harley" in my KLR650's carb but the business end of the thing is identical.
Wow, that is crazy! I put some cheap Amazon alarms on mine. They are pretty loud and sensitive if the bike is touched at all. I paired two of them to one remote to make it more intense. I could only hope it would scare them off. I also have a front brake lever lock.
Sorry for your loss, hope you get a good insurance pay out to buy a new bike!
Wsdcam Bike Alarm with Remote 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BLDZN2G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Monster Fairings Red Motorcycle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JRTNG87?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just use these: https://www.amazon.com/Venom-SMI3001-P-Sportbike-Motorcycle-Attachment/dp/B018IM0ANS/ref=sr_1_5
Works on just about any swingarm and doesn't require spools. Might ask woodcraft if they make something similar.
I like this for dual sport riding- Bell MX-9 Adventure with MIPS
To keep your plate from bending, get a backing plate behind it. You can buy a premade one, but I've always just made my own from a 1/4" sheet of ABS plastic. The thin steel sheet of a license plate bends super easily without anything behind it.
I'm not sure what you mean when you say your plate got sucked into your rear tire. Your plate (and everything else back there) should not contact your rear tire, even with the suspension bottomed.
I got mine on Amazon just because I wanted to easily return them if they were garbage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE0R7W/
But, they sell the same ones at HF
https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-capacity-motorcycle-standwheel-chock-61670.html
And yes, they do. Not enough you could get on it and mess around, but enough that you could leave it in your garage or something, and enough to keep it upright while you get the straps on
I also have a DR350, the stock headlight is super meager. I ride in traffic in SoCal so seeing things and more importantly, BEING SEEN at night is key here. I also wanted the JNS headlight upgrade but didn't want to pay the JNS pricetag.
I got the headlight itself from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TMNCBH/
I got my bracket from a guy named Richie Elfstrom on Facebook - he started making the brackets for the DRZ crowd who were looking to upgrade their headlights. The thing is, I have a fork swap done on my bike and so I'm using the DRZ headlight mounts that go over the fork tubes, and a DRZ headlight shroud. I'm not 100% sure if his bracket will work for you with DR350 parts.
My suggestion: if you're decent with fabricating, have some flat pieces of metal, a drill, and vice - I'd just buy the headlight, and figure out how to mount it once it shows up. Definitely a worth-while upgrade! Let me know if you have any questions
You commented on my Bullnose Ford post. These are the LED pods on my truck. They have a nice beam pattern that doesn't blind oncoming traffic, and they're pretty bright. https://www.amazon.com/Swatow-Industries-Compliant-Approved-Motorcycle/dp/B07DD8PRVL?pd_rd_w=YDcaS&content-id=amzn1.sym.94349326-ca8a-4b0d-94f0-6931485b8573&pf_rd_p=94349326-ca8a-4b0d-94f0-6931485b8573&pf_rd_r=91F326WEGTTT1PA022RV&...
I'm in the process of building a FAQ, its posted in the side bar and is editable as I'm aiming for a wiki-style FAQ where anyone can add sections they feel are needed.
Link is here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MJliULiRm1JhdbX3scxUQXJ58AU_PkWt5AGIWfJKbUQ/edit
Feel free to add what you feel is useful. Its in its infancy right now as I only started it tonight.
It’s the AmazonBasics hard camera case small (EU URL). Just fitted it with three U-Brackets and some silicone to make the drilled holes water proof.
I know a couple dudes who toss these gel seat pads on their smaller dual sports for longer rides and like them
It's this guy, no issues yet!
JFG RACING CNC Rear Brake Disc Guard Cover Protector for YZ125 YZ250 YZ250F YZ450F 06-17 YZ125X 17 YZ250X 16-17 WR250F WR450F 06-16 WR250R WR250X 07-17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W55WB9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_22012ME81HKSY48T35XT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's this guy, JFG RACING CNC Rear Brake Disc Guard Cover Protector for YZ125 YZ250 YZ250F YZ450F 06-17 YZ125X 17 YZ250X 16-17 WR250F WR450F 06-16 WR250R WR250X 07-17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W55WB9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_22012ME81HKSY48T35XT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No issues yet!
Check out Rok Straps. They are super durable straps with buckles that have a little section of elastic so you can really cinch down your gear.
If you try that again....
Look into windshield adhesive. Its basically tire rubber when it cures.
(Be sure to put the tube into the toaster oven for a while, that shit is crazy thick)
Example
(2) Tubes U-418 Dow Auto Glass Sealant/Adhesive/Urethane-Primerless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJKME0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V9NQDY95QJP7RVETW60X
Canyon Dancer Tiedown Strap Rings https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0068ESQTY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6SV7JN912JQ10V3Y9SAM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use four, two forwards on the top fork clamp and two rear on the handlebar mount. And a fork saver between tire and fender. Hauled my bike to Alaska and back and all over the States with no issue. Though to ak and back and longer trips I'll toss a strap over the rear tire to keep it from bouncing around.
I use the spray version but I think the squeeze bottle of Dupont Chain Wax would be the cleanest way to apply.
You can always read more advice here of course.
After you apply any lube, wipe the excess off and that will always help keep the chain cleaner.
IMO, I'd rather have a slightly messy oiled chain than a clean dry chain. It's part of riding/maintenance.
So... The gearhead brigade is really not going to want to hear this but I have had excellent luck over the years with knockoff "Rotopax-esque" tanks. I have two identical to this one and I have had zero problems with them. Obviously they're not compatible with real Rotopax mounts and accessories, but if you don't care about that they're an excellent deal.
I have always found the name brand Rotopax cans to be incredibly overpriced for what they are and as you've experienced (unless you unknowingly got a counterfeit or something) that expense does not necessarily translate into good fit and finish.
You could try some kind of gimmicky device like this. But if your cable is in good condition and adjusted right there's not really much you can do.
This is what you want. The weight sits higher up. and the front pockets allow you to grab shit while you're still on the bike. I've tried tons of different versions of camelbacks, and this is by far the best.
I have no complaints with these. It has 1 more flap so it should be more silent than what you're currently using as well as more forgiving to use. It also blocks noise from the full spectrum. I'd imagine letting in high-pitched noises ("Hi-fi") would make you deaf over time. I trim the ends so they don't stick out too much from my ears.
TOPKU Motorcycle Turn Signal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQFST44?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I prefer these. If I were ever pulled over, the cop would probably issue a fixit for these definitely not DOT signals… but they’re a LOT less breakable.
https://www.amazon.com/HJC-Pinlock-Earplug-Motorcycle-Accessories/dp/B01KSYR7AS
A little pricey but I bought a set 5 years ago and am still using them, so they ended up being way cheaper than disposables in the long run. I just wash them by hand in some warm soapy water every couple of uses. They're great for helmet comms / music because they don't completely block your ears, they just reduce the louder sounds.
Electric horns are usually generic bike horns, at least on my KTM and everything else I've owned. Just buy a motorcycle horn and hook the leads up. You can get more expensive/louder ones but as far as plug-and-play something like the below should do fine.
Vibration is a funny thing. The bar end weights might help, I remember when some tried just putting the right diameter rubber hose into the length of the bars to try and dampen vibration....
You probably have the most common chrome-moly stock bars, nothing wrong with them.
But you could try an aluminum bar which might feel better from Renthal or such. And sometimes just making the bars shorter will change how much vibration is felt. And those foam grips might help if the vibration is the buzzy type of vibration...
Then there are these. Never used them !
These grips help a bit. Not much else worth doing imo. These do help a bit. They are have a larger router diameter and are very squishy.