What are /r/ExposurePorn's favorite Products & Services?

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Here I uploaded a color version for you. I shot it with the intention of making it black and white, because an exposure that long with digital usually has to much color noise and hot spots.

Thanks. And, yes, the welding glass is equivalent to an 11 stop ND filter. So it takes a huge amount of light out. I also wanted to be at an f/8 because it's a sweet spot on my lens. Using the welding glass was the only way I could get a proper 5 second exposure in that light.

edit: here is one I did later that did not require the welding glass.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/94526350@N08/14077743063/sizes/l

I have a similar shot but was on the wrong side of the planet to capture the milky way as awesome as this shot, I just manually popped a flash during the exposure.

It's down in Stony Creek. GO to the Puppet House Theater, across the street from it, and behind a house, there is a couple of sport fields and the bridge.

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=41.269594,+-72.757347&num=1&t=h&vpsrc=0&ie=UTF8&z=19&iwloc=A

A proper HDR photo shouldn't look like it's an HDR, what you don't know can't hurt you! I think the real problem, like you said, is the amount of post-processing involved. If I didn't already tell you, would you have known that this was an HDR photo? https://www.flickr.com/photos/shutter-spy/9361127529/

Someone posted an example in the discussion here - do you think this should be banned since it's HDR: https://www.flickr.com/photos/synchronium/8842106299/?rb=1

Settings:

Camera: Canon EOS T1i

Lens: Canon EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS (kit lens)

Aperture: f/20

Exposure time: 25s

ISO: 100

Location: Beaumont Tower

Haha as /u/macbooklover91 mentioned there were quite a bit of people but the long exposure was luckily able to average them out! It was actually very packed, even when I finished taking the set of photos and looked at the photo from the back of the camera, I was surprised that the people didn't show up in the shot. I included a bit of information on how the photo was made in the Flickr description if you're interested!

You can edit your comment to fix it if you want.

If you're new to Reddit, you might not have heard about Reddit Enhancement Suite. It's a browser extension that I recommend everyone to use, as it makes many things significantly more convenient than it otherwise is. For example, while you're writing a comment, it gives you a live preview of what it will look like.

I was SW of St. Louis, and the planet in the photo - I'm assuming Mercury (but also could have been Mars) - was just below directly left of the sun from my location. Does that match with what you remember? That would correspond to maybe 30º clockwise rotation.

Edit - That object was likely Regulus.

They're nothing nearly that fancy.

It's this LED strip. They're tied around my body so that I can take a long exposure of myself rock climbing.

I bought this one, but I just saw others for a lot less on Amazon. I searched 'Panoramic Head'.

CowboyStudio 360 degree Full Spherical Camera QTVR Tripod Panoramic Panhead Pan/Til Head Gimbal Bracket Kit For Canon Nikon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CRKUPT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q624AbVT3X2FH

Nice. My next purchase is actually gonna be the 35mm Rokinon. Also, I double check my exposure times with this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.strykeout.darkskies, just to be sure the star trails are kept to a minimum. It says your 35mm can do 10secs with a crop sensor camera. Probably want to shoot a f2.4 or above to keep the stars a little sharper. I'm sure a full frame will allow a little bit longer exposure time as well. Hope you get some clear skies!

The camera I was using (Canon EOS 7DMKII) has a built-in intervalometer but it can't repeat the next shot faster than once a second and the longest exposure I can do is 30 secons, so I do occasionally use this Kiwifotos RS-80N3 remote control shutter release cord with the camera in bulb mode. It allows for no delay between pictures and with bulb mode and continuous shooting set on the camera, I can take as many pictures in a row as I want with as long of an exposure as I want.

Nice shot! not so much the noise...

For this kind of shots I usually go for the "ruse of 400" to maximize the exposure time, which in your case this would be:

400 / 18mm = 22sec and still retain reasonable star sharpness

Increasing the exposure time to 22sec will allow you to decrease the ISO significantly (down to 4500) and thus have less noise in the photo (more data to play with)

unless that wasn't a concern at all ahah nice picture my friend :)

​

Although there are many apps you can use to check these values and equivalent exposures, I use Photographer's Companion app:
Android here
IOS here

Ahh, just in my back yard in Sydney, Australia.

Here is what i took the other night

My iso was on 100, i was just seeing what changes the F and shutter length would do for night time shots, that's how i learn.

I went to Lake Tahoe a couple months ago during a work trip to see if I could take some Milky Way shots. I wasn't nearly as succesful - the full moon didn't help. but seeing shots like this makes me want to try again and again.

Awesome picture OP, I also really like this one of yours.

Thank you for submitting. Unfortunately your submission has been removed because it has been rehosted from an approved OS. Please feel free to resubmit the original source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattgranz/6953377870/

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Acquisition details:

• Camera: Sony A7RII
• Lens: Samyang f2.8 @ 14mm
• Exposure Time: 20 seconds
• ISO: 640 for the sky
• ISO: 100 for foreground
• Tripod: GEEKOTO 77"

I used a couple of floodlights with gels inside of the cars to produce the lighting effects. The outside lighting was from my headlamp, as I stood off to the side and waved it around.

I then turned off all of the lights and set the camera in timelapse mode to expose for the sky and went to bed.

In postprocessing, I blended the foreground frame into the time-lapse footage of the properly exposed sky, creating this really trippy TikTok video from it.

ISO Invariance has changed the way I shoot night scenes.

Canon t1i, ISO 200, Rokinon 8mm manual lens, 801 second exposure. f/8 for the tree lighting and el wire. f/11 for the umbrellas, dorcy light sticks, blinkytape, monkeylight, etc.

Behind the Scene

Thanks. It's always good to get someone elses opinion because I can be a little harsh on my own photos sometimes.

Apart from the settings above the only difference might be the time and the Canon 7D being a cropped sensor meaning less light.

This photo was taken at 11:37pm and the sun is setting here around 6pm so it was fairly dark already which allowed for much longer exposures

Here's the RAW file if you want to have a look and play around with it

Did you take this shot? I found it on Pixabay as well, submitted by a guy named David Mark.

The conditions were pretty perfect for shooting this particular storm. For one thing, the rain and lightning were beyond the ridge, so I was able to stay dry. The moon was rising and fairly bright between the cloud breaks, but it didn't affect my exposure too much AND I was able to use it to illuminate the foreground in some of my shots (such as this one).

I agree about missing a nice bolt between exposures. As in fishing, you just have to consider it "the one that got away." :)

Thanks :-) The biggest problem with night shots is getting the lighting you want, if you have your own then you can get the shot how you want it in one frame. I used to use torches but flashes have consistent power so you can get the same lighting across different areas. I did want to get the trees and the whole bridge lit but that would have meant merging shots so I compromised with this. I have merged shots before but I always try and get it right in camera as much as possible, it makes you think a bit more about your settings and challenges you to come up with solutions to problems.

My tip for night shots is get Stellarium on a laptop or PC, you can set it to any location and date/time to see where stars/Milky Way etc are going to be, I also have Google Sky Map on my phone for reference. I also try to plan as much of my shots/trips with Google Earth help so I can find good locations to try by looking at photos in locations.

Out there in the Masai Mara it was the clearest I've ever seen and once you've take a few shots you can see which way it's moving. I did some shots the night before so knew where it would be at a certain time, I got a bit of luck that it went over the bridge like this but I did force the composition to frame it also, I had to wait until 1am or so for it to be in this position. We did wander around the camp the previous night looking for better spots but I knew this would be the best location. Otherwise it's just a bit of luck with the weather.

Try this site as a start: https://expertphotography.com/a-beginners-guide-to-photography/

There's a book that I found an amazing way to understand exposure and photography too: https://www.amazon.com.au/Understanding-Exposure-Fourth-Photographs-Camera-ebook/dp/B0104EOJSK

Also check out the r/photography sub. Just go to their wiki as there is a lot of great stuff there. Just don't get too involved in the posts and comments, there are a lot of people in that sub that think everyone is an idiot and the mods have a weird ego complex. But the wiki is great.

Does your camera take a very long time to save a RAW image after a long exposure of > 30 sec? I took a 4 min exposure yesterday and it took almost the same time to save the image to memory card. I was using A7 with this SD card. Is the (slow?) memory card to blame?

Thanks!

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.agi.android.augmentedreality

Satellite AR by Analytical Graphics lets you see which satellites you're currently seeing and are to expect above you. (Also great for the initial coarse adjustment of satellite dishes.)

(Their humbly named "Systems Toolkit" for Windows is also worth a look, even for non-engineers. Even the free version lets you look at satellite trajectories in realtime and plan visibility scenarios. Or you could just buy a license and investigate the interplay of military and/or civil actors when you're planning on building a global communications network.)

Lets just say my budget is smaller, as I'm hobbyist level.

So I was considering used D700 (around $650) and 16-35mm f/4G (around $800.)

Does that sound like a good value for a hobbyist level?

Yeah. Ill check the post on how to take the long exposure shots. I got This BW 10 stop filter, Do you know if BW is a good company to buy filters from?

If you plan on hiking with your tripod, I would definitely get something carbon fiber to reduce weight.

This tripod from ZOMEi lists itself as a "hiking" tripod because you can remove the legs and use them as hiking poles. I've never seen anything else like it, but the reviews are good.

I personally have an aluminum version of this tripod which has worked great for the most part. However, I did break one of the clips that extend the legs by accidentally pushing it the wrong direction while using it in single digit temperatures, so I can't really blame Dolica for my own fault.

I think you might need an adapter, it looks like your camera comes with a 3/8" hole and I think most tripods/cameras use 1/4". I would grab one just in case since adapters are pretty cheap on amazon.

This is the one I bought and it works okay. From like 10-20 feet away it works well and it's really convenient to keep in a camera bag

If you're looking to buy new, you can take long exposure photos with any entry level DSLR. The Nikon D3400 or Canon EOS Rebel T6 are both great starting points (I pesonally like the Nikon a bit more). They usually run $450 - $600 dollars depending on the lenses they come with. They both have good ISO ranges (ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor to light) which means you would be able to take long exposures of things like stars or see detail in very dark places.

If those are out of your price range than I would look at used DSLR's like the Nikon D3300 or D3200. They aren't gonna handle low light quite as well as the newer cameras, and high ISO images will be noisier, but they will still easily take long exposures. And really any DSLR made in the last 8 years will be able to take long exposures. If you are trying to take long exposures of things like car trails one of those would work fine. If you are trying to take photos of things like stars I would try to get a newer DSLR.

Reframe the nebula back to center every 50-100 photos then align in post. There's a few programs that will do this, Rotnstack, DeepSkyStacker.

But title is not adding up. 113 frames and 685 seconds would be 6.1 second exposures. Anything over 2 seconds would show star trails. Maybe OP used a combination, stacking and a star tracker.

I used this on a white background with the lights off. I played around with how long to keep the shutter open.

Just got myself a whole set of ND filters. I love taking exposure shots. This is what set I got if anyone was curious..

I use this 10 stop filter:

http://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8

It's possible I got an exceptionally good copy, but it is good for the price.

One tip I have is to take your cheap filters and make sure you're not using auto white balance. DSLRs have a pretty hard time figuring out white balance sometimes for long exposures. Lock down white balance and see if the color cast is still present.

Speaking as a former welder, you can purchase just the glass from your local/regional welding supply shop. If you wanted to order it online, heres and example of one on Amazon for $12.20 shipped.

Go now my friend, and have some colourful fun

basically your options are to buy a remote or to buy a remote. you can get a wired or little IR remote for around 5 dollars. i prefer the cable release to the ir remotes

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Control-Replacement/dp/B00AI07F1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1428253243&sr=8-3&keywords=canon+shutter+release+cable

for sky shots you should be thinking in minutes, not seconds. unless you are just trying to capture cloud formations

I'm a beginner to this process and mostly just messing around - this picture was the result of experimenting with my new phone tripod and a long exposure app. I was hoping for some lightning, but this was a nice result too! This is a 2 minute exposure as the clouds were blowing by on a particularly windy day.

Edit: Link to the app