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I would just get some gloves, man. I have had my alcantara formula wheel for about a year bow and have always worn gloves and there is virtually no wear to the grips to date. Gloves are definitely a worthwhile investment to keep the wheel looking good. I get the alpinestars kart gloves with the rubber on the palms and fingers and they are like $50 and my first pair lasted me almost a year and just got a second pair for my birthday.
Alpinestars T-1 K RACE V2 CARB GLV - BLACK/TURQUOISE - M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZW2SBW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_IafbGb7TN78MN
Correction: Nature's Miracle is not the shit anymore; years ago, was purchased (name rights only) and reformulated by whoever owns the name now. It's not what it used to be. On top of that, the amount of chemical perfumes they add to the new formula is severely over the top and will permanently smell-stain whatever you use it on.
If you want the Nature's Miracle of years ago that worked awesome every time and didn't leave a nasty scent behind forever, get "Venus Laboratories Earth Friend Stain/Odor Remover".
You are welcome. I'm not affiliated with these folks at all, just had a terrible scent experience with the "new" Nature's Miracle and will never ever buy/use it again.
Thanks lol it’s nice to have the controller right there for my non-wheel games. The mount I use right now is a 3D printed on off Etsy. It’s a cheap solution but they’re a big more fragile than I’d like lol about 5 minutes after taking these pictures I destroyed the bottom one when my heel caught the bottom wheel wrong. Broke it clean off lol I ordered a few of the ones below, hopefully should mount right up.
Fanatec Compatible Billet Aluminum Wall Mount Hanger for Sim Racing Steering Wheel Rims https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084HH3PRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HRDTGM60NHYWPVPPC0Y5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Like the other guys said, you can do that. I just ordered one of these though;
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08ZMYN8LZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To replace 3 of the elastomers and put two 85's or 95's at the bottom.
The rig is from race room but I wouldn’t recommend it these days. Back when I bought it many years ago it was far cheaper and came with more brackets that I needed as a bundle, but to use the fanatec stuff I needed to buy another $150 worth of new brackets. It’s very sturdy but I also replaced the seat with this one because the original wasn’t very comfortable. At the end of the day, there are far better options available for better prices these days. The new seat is comfortable though if that’s all you need.
Curious to know why Fanatec just rammed a shit ton of grease in that red adjustment tube lol. Any lithium grease recommendations? I was wondering if this grease is fine? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_FRE5WQGV8AJJ4P214507
I bought a set of these: https://amazon.com/dp/B07ZWMBWWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_4M2QZXBPR6W2B8H77TEZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They work really well, aren't bulky, and I can still fiddle with all the buttons and switches of my Formula V2
I've been wanting to be able to shut off a single USB port due to a light on a button box that has no way to turn off...your post inspired me to look again I found this like 30 seconds before typing this. It looks promising.
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html
I haven't tried it but this thread (where I found the app...from 2009 lol) the guy inquiring said it worked. Its been updated to work with windows 10 both 32 & 64 bit versions.
As long as you can make solid metal to metal connection at both ends, that cable will work.
If you're in Canada then this would work with that cable: https://www.amazon.ca/StaticTek-Adapter-Universal-Connection-Unbreakable/dp/B071J61CSV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ground+earth+plug&qid=1632122097&sr=8-1
Thanks! I’d recommend these
Fanatec Compatible Billet Aluminum Wall Mount Hanger for Sim Racing Steering Wheel Rims https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084HH3PRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HRDTGM60NHYWPVPPC0Y5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Home Depot has a screw index - or thread gauge- in the fastener aisle, just bring the old screws with you. If not it is a great cheap tool when you need it like now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7W3NQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_1JXTVQ3X57FRG5Q5YVZQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How will you be transporting it? If you have a pretty big car, one of these will do the trick. The wheel stand pro is ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE lol, it'll feel like you're gonna fold it in half.
It will take 2 days for YouTubers to test that theory once they get a production unit in their hands.
This $50 brick will do it. Am sure Fanatec is making the bulk of their profit from this piece.
Thanks! When I’ve used the sprays I see a lot of black coming off- not fibers but it’s as if the dye is coming out easily. Is it OK to use a conditioner that has a dye? Like this one? Pedag Suede Cleaner and Textile Color Restorer, 3 pc Cleaning and Care Kit for Shoes and Boots, Made in Germany, Black Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008S9O6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6CKGQPZ5N9QZVVE022NJ?psc=1
Also is it safe to wash with warm water?
I got these and they're great for gripping the wheel without being hot or bulky. driving gloves
Don't. Try. Water. Ever. Again!
Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCUJWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_vu-ZFbY7NZVWA
Or any product like it, or instead you can use Baby Wipes and add a little "NON 100 or 95% alcohol"
Edit: I have a CSW V1, old as my daughter and still in good condition outside using those that I mentioned.
For a while I was literally using sub $7 C clamps from amazon. E.g. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NY32AI/ref=afx_dp_prime_egress?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh
You could find some with a deeper throat depth, but the regular ones should work for a while.
Try putting some drawer liner in between your wheel base and desk, then clamp it down tight. You could put some in between the clamp and the underside of your desk as well.
Something like this
Off the shelf? Lowest I can readily find is $20. I'm sure in bulk/wholesale it's much cheaper than off Amazon.
Ferrite cores on amazon. I had an issue very similar where it would jump in and out of gears and put like 5 ferrite cores on my connecting wire from the shifter to the wheelbase and it works perfectly. Just wrap the wire once or twice through each core.
I think I found it and bought it. But it comes with eight springs and it looks like there’s only one set left in stock. So if it runs out or you don’t want to buy eight, and you are in the US, throw me a few bones and I will mail you a spring. I do not all eight.
uxcell 3D Printer Die Spring, 20mm OD 65mm Long 8pcs Spiral Stamping Light Load Compression Mould Die Springs for 3D Printer Electric Part, Yellow
One can also use bed stoppers such as this one, and I actually prefer the bed stoppers as I can remove them easily after I am done with my session. I am not sure if these could work on carpet tho.
>40 comments
I somewhat solved this with the PEIN pedal mount combined with removing the casters and buying the rubber feet others have mentioned.
The remaining issue I have is, I can still "pry" myself out of the pedal mount chair feet slots if I'm braking too hard and tilting my chair back since they're just sort of a cup preventing horizontal movement but not vertical. Need to figure out how to keep my chair planted to the ground or more rigidly coupled to the pedal mount...
Ordered this one here:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will update the thread when I get a chance to try it out.
Looks fine, but you may want to get some better joint connections, the corner gusset-style ones will make it much stiffer, the more flex it has the more fine FFB detail you lose. They sell these on Amazon for super cheap, just pick how many you need, they are well worth it compared to the ones you're using now.
My CSL Elite + was shutting down during operation. I found out the Fanatec-supplied power supply was failing. I bought a new one for $20USD and it’s worked like a charm ever since. I don’t know that you’re having the same issue, but if you feel like trying what I did, here is a link to what I bought: 24V 8A Power Supply
For sure, I am super particular with hand placement on a round wheel for rally sims, I like my hands positioned pretty much right at 9 & 3, and a lot of round wheels have your hands a bit higher than this, more like 10 & 2, not for me. This is why I love the R383 wheel rim so much. A lot of pro rally drivers also prefer this wheel rim, or at least its shape and spoke geometry, for this very reason. I just checked and it's being sold at Amazon right now for a really good price, $210. Normally its closer to $250 or more.
I had a kind of similar problem with my shifter, but it may not be the same issue you're experiencing.
In my case, it was related to my cockpit. If I had the shifter mounted on the aluminum cockpit, I couldn't run the calibration successfully, and the shifter would randomly mis-read gears. For me, the most common was usually intermittently reading neutral when I was in 4th. This obviously causes major issues in-game.
​
I found that if I disconnected my shifter from the metal cockpit chassis, I could successfully run the calibration, and the shifter appeared to behave normally. It became erratic again the second I attached it to my metal cockpit.
​
I wound up ordering some clip-on ferrite cores from amazon. Clipped 2 to each end of the cable that connects the shifter to the wheel base, and that completely solved my issue.
​
Here are the ones I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWCSNW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try predrilling a small hole in the screw shaft and use a small easy-out extractor, otherwise you'll have to drill them out, they are aluminum screws and the only reason they used aluminum was so they could anodize them red, terrible design choice, you have to be so careful and use the proper sized Phillips bit to get them out, once they strip a little, its game over.
Nice!!! Enjoy it! Be careful! The DD1/2 are straight dangerous xD Also recommend getting some m6 1.0 x 12mm screws to replace the ones in the heel rest on the V3 pedals. They are very shitty metal and can strip easily even with correct tooling.
Here is a Canadian Amazon link for the screws.
M6-1.0 x 12mm Flat Head Socket... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B084RGK4LM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Otherwise I love all my Fanatec stuff, enjoy it!! :)
I have these
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Specialty-Dexterity-Gloves/dp/B01M249YYA
Hands haven't sweat yet. Much better than the fastfit ones, though FF is much cheaper. But thicker and heavier/hotter.
Ah alright... Not to go away for your answer but I'm quite clueless when it comes to that haha sorry.... Sounds simple enough but I don't feel too confident on that - for that plug do you mean these? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Replacement-Straight-Electrical/dp/B07G4DVD3L
So if I were to follow that the plug would be cut after the thick rubber then I just follow the colored wires to the colored screws (I'm guessing it has to be soldered? Excuse the question if it's obvious I've never done anything like this before). And sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by "outout" of the transformers.
Is this the only solution? Or would it be fine to find a wire that specifies as 10A 250V (as it shows on the UK cord that plugs into the power supply) but has the US prongs or does that pose a problem? And a friend of mine had shown that a UK to US converter is possible and while I had doubts of it not being able to power/work well with the wheel feedback he had mentioned it probably doesn't use as much voltage compared to powering a laptop... He just had a quick mention the AC/DC on the original power brick would be better off but we both thought that Hunterfield brick should be ok. What are your thoughts on those two if you don't mind?
I prefer my DIY handbrake using a hydraulic handbrake.
What I didn't like about the Fantec is that it's flimsy and has a bit of flex which just feels cheap.
hydraulic handbrake(not a referral link)
I found one of these for ~20 dollars, arduino pro micro for ~8 dollars and sliding potentiometer for ~3 dollars. Had all the wiring and stuff already. For ~30 dollars, it's a lot more sturdy than the Fanatec and looks better to boot.
The green Heavy Load die springs I got were a lot firmer than the blues. I also found the blues and reds were too spongy. Replaced with two reds and it's perfect for me. But, personal preference.
Wow! Simply just search on amazon there are many springs you can chose from.Heyiarbeit20mmOD10mmID25mm...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09S3LJXZ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have these wheels on my chair and love them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VWH68XP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
The locks are very strong and because the wheels are hard rubber (like on rollerblades) the chair isn't going anywhere.
Is this similar to what you're using?
https://www.amazon.com/MroMax-Compression-Spring-Printer-Electric/dp/B07Z4QD2HL
There's some others that seem quite a bit longer. The one linked seems to match yours.
Sorry, never messed with springs before.
I just came across this. Seems like it would work but wouldn't be the most esthetically pleasing because it would leave a big black hub at the end of your shifter shaft.
Thx man. I found also this for usb cable. All fixed now. https://www.amazon.pl/Seminer-Skierowany-Rozszerzające-Kompatybilne-MacBookiem/dp/B09KGGBN67/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?crid=B22JFONTQ2FX&keywords=usb+c+90+stopni&qid=1659264125&sprefix=usb+c+90%2Caps%2C391&sr=8-15
This is an amazing upgrade to my CSL Elite loadcell pedals for $15 or something. I just gained 0.15s in La Source, in my first 5 laps. I copied 2x 95 + 2x red springs and it feels great.
If it's a grounding issue, they may send you 1000 pcbs and it won't be fixed... Basically static charges build up in your rig's metallic structure with time (hence the issue not creeping up right away), and if you don't provide a "way out" for them, they'll be stuck there for a long time. These static charges may mess up some of the more sensitive electronic circuitry, chief among which being the LC pedal. I had the same exact issue about 10 years with ClubSport V2 pedals.
One of the ways you can provide such a path is by grounding your rig. You can easily do so by getting something like this https://www.amazon.ca/IUZIT-Grounding-Anti-Static-Electronics-Repair/dp/B093BN9LWL/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=esd+grounding+plug&qid=1656098618&sprefix=esd+grounding%2Caps%2C73&sr=8-7
I have this and put castors on them.
Marada Racing Cockpit Frame... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J5FQB77?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And these
1.5" Threaded Stem Casters with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHPFRD8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> and I feel pretty cool while wearing them.
This can't be expressed enough hahaha
I use one. It is a USB2 one that I use.
​
I don't have any real problems with it, only occasionally the PC won't initially see the wheel, but cycling through the inputs on the switch fixes that.
​
Pretty sure it was this one .. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07T2J57GY/
But I don't recall seeing the remote control button on display on that page.
Hey, I used this to mount it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RD5PDWY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
At a certain angle, this plate lines up well with the shifter and NLR shifter plate.
When I used this setup, I didn't fold my gt lite. I've since moved back to mounting the shifter only on the NLR shifter plate and mounted the handbrake to the right of the shifter. The setup in the photo was really shaky when shifting.
If you need more photos, I can DM them to you for clarity.
I use the 100% RIDECAMP moto/mountain biking gloves. They're comfy and I can use the touchpad on my wireless keyboard/mouse combo without taking them off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFGC8ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Everyone! Replace the useless black C clamp with this and all your disconnects will be solved.
Coastal Shaft Collars - 1.25" Bore Diameter - Clamping Two Piece Shaft Collar - 303 Stainless Steel (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MMRD6KR/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_DY29Q2VMGXVK5V0DBDX6
Like Roland said if you can afford this setup and planned on spending 100-200 on a desk you're better off spending $229 on this Next Level Racing Foldable Simulator Racing Cockpit (NLR-S021) PC, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N79HM77/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_E40XJG79PFQV5WMFJYB4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It folds for conservation of space if that is also an issue, and if you don't want to spend that much I wouldn't highly recommend it but you could always get just a wheel stand and pedal mount combo like this one GT Omega Racing Wheel Stand for Logitech G920 G29 G923 Driving Force Gaming Steering Wheel, Pedals & Gear Shifter Mount V1, PS4, Xbox, Ferrari, PC - Tilt-Adjustable to Ultimate Sim Racing Experience https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FENJWZG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_26FV8VVQG2V51Q4ZF9TV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Don't know about the post itself but this seems to be a known issue. By the way if this ever happens to you, you can actually buy a different collar, preferably a two screw one, if the original one is not working. My week old CSL DD developed a bent shaft, it doesn't disconnect but when I turn it feels super clunky now. It feels rougher and has a cog like feeling towards the side that the shaft is tucked in, which is not the same as the magnets that you can normally feel when you turn it around.
Some people report not being able to hold the shaft despite torqueing the collar up to 15nm, which could be solved with some Loctite in the collar screw. I guess that in the cases that it stays loose regardless is probably because the sleeve is a little wider than usual.
This collar does the job way better and it has the same fit, if you ever need it.
Sounds like good fun, that’s the beauty of upgrading.
Here is the Molex needed:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F334YVC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And Google the PSU, which looks really well built. Had to order through German Amazon:
CARGADOR ESP Charger Current 24 V Compatible with Replacement for Switching Mode Power Supply Endor6200-2400750P P/N Endor6200-2400750-15C01
Here is the power supply. It’s pretty much that simple as strip, solder, plug in.
After trying several different products, I found this shaft collar that works like a charm.
Fanatec took a few weeks to get me a replacement clamp but I have yet to use it because of how sturdy this shaft collar is.
After trying several different products, I found this shaft collar that works like a charm.
Fanatec took a few weeks to get me a replacement clamp but I have yet to use it because of how sturdy this shaft collar is.
I had the same issue and after trying several different products, I found this shaft collar that works like a charm.
Fanatec took a few weeks to get me a replacement clamp but I have yet to use it because of how sturdy this shaft collar is.
Something like this EJGAME Dual Game Controller & Headphone & Media Remote Stand Wall Mount Holder for PS5,/PS4/Xbox ONE/Series X/Switch,Stay Organized(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TWNKSXM/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_MAJV69GVBJC4EQ93P7CG
Mine came bundled with my ps5 wall mount but the one I purchased from Amazon isn’t currently listed
I had the same problem, I had to put my rig away after each use, and believe it or not, I was able to break down my aluminum frame rig and put it in the closet within a few minutes, basically I would detach the entire wheel upright and the seat subframe from the rectangular base, so it would be in 3 pieces. I would fold the seat forward and store all the parts in the closet, its not very hard, and well worth the difference. I didn't realize how much FFB detail I was missing until I went from this to this. Anything is possible if you plan it right. I even stuck felt pads on the 3 broken-down sections so they slid across the hardwood floor and into the closet super easily.
I have this and it works perfectly. Maybe it would work for you as well?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07N2F9YQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A mount I made from some angle brackets, I got the idea from a mother post on here but the parts he used was sold in the UK. Here is a link for US parts.
4 PCS 5 Inches Steel L Right Angle Bracket, Reinforcing Rib Floating Steps Corner Brace for Timber Connector Wood Shelves, Furniture, Cabinet, Thickness 2.6mm(Size: 5"L x 4"W x 2⅝"H) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G6JLP1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3MVQPD4N9V4VN28ABVM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ya everything works fine in fanalab etc.
This is the hub I use, I purchased the smaller version with 4 USB ports but can't find it on amazon atm. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08MFHRPXT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_24XJZCEKG5JPHP7CYRZE
Sabrent USB 3.0 Sharing Switch... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B074TYDJK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You should be able to find something similar in your local Amazon or computer store.
I’m using it to switch between the PS5 and the PC.
100pcs 20 Series T Sliding Nuts Hammer Nut Block Square Nuts M5 T Nuts for 2020 Aluminum Profiles T Slot 6mm (m5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1HX9GS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5QYTX9KH9H1F3TK0YWNA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You don't need 100 obviously, but something similar and the bolt of whatever length you need.
i use these for controller and headphones. it’s a 2 pack. i used m6 t nuts and bolts but you could drill the hole out a little bigger for m8.
Fosmon Anti-Slip Wall Mount Holder Stand for Gaming Controller and Headphones - 2 Packs, Compatible with PS5 PS4 PS3, Xbox Series X/S, One, 360, Elite Controller, Switch Pro Controller and Headset https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PGS8S1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5V2AR2HNTXZQ2XXSSBYP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Interestingly, this doesn’t appear to be a Marada. The Marada looks much more like my GT Omega and doesn’t appear to have support bars. It looks like it’s actually this offering from Dardoo which came up while I was searching Marada:
Dardoo Gaming Cockpit Fit for Logitech G923 G29 G920 Thrustmaster Fanatec Wheels Compatible with Xbox, PS4, PC Adjustable Steering Racing Simulator Wheel&Pedals Not Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LHK8P3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SZ8P8P73WHP0FVK5N00K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My bad!
AVLT Single 13"-43" Monitor Arm Desk Mount fits One Flat/Curved/Ultrawide Monitor Full Motion Height Swivel Tilt Rotation Adjustable Monitor Arm - White/VESA/C-Clamp/Grommet/Cable Management https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0819Q8583/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_AH1Z7TCCNDZ6M8YR0FN8
Ordered those now. Would also like to make the gas pedal a little harder to push, it's a little to light for my taste. Do you think I could place such a spring in there too or are there other workarounds with rubbers?
Ordered those now, but thank you!
It‘s called „Druckfeder“ / „Werkzeugfeder“ in Germany, I ordered these a few days ago: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08QPTMHMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M6RCG956F89DEX31FTA1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (it‘s a 2 pack) They add quiet a bit of travel but still need a good amount of pressure. I dont have my pedals mounted yet (desk user) so the pressure should be alright if you bolt them down. (If you search for die springs in this reddit you‘ll find a video of someone, in the comments a lot of people like the two blues.
I'd recommend die springs
Yellow means the load level is lighter load;
Blue means the load level is light load;
Red means the load level is middle load;
Green means the load level is heavy load;
Brown means the load level is overweight load.
Mix and match, save money.
AVLT Single 13"-43" Monitor Arm Desk Mount fits One Flat/Curved/Ultrawide Monitor Full Motion Height Swivel Tilt Rotation Adjustable Monitor Arm - White/VESA/C-Clamp/Grommet/Cable Management https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0819Q8583/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ASET6KHVGWQV9HSJVTH3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
PZRT 3030 Series 50-Pack M6 T-Nuts,Carbon Steel Nickel-Plated Half Round Roll in Sliding T Slot Nut 8mm Slot Aluminum Profile Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z2HX42/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PGXWVXPPTV5ZTTFKXC2B
This is what I was looking at, because the one you linked would take a while to ship. And this is different strengths. OCR 50Pcs 8mm OD 20mm Length Light Load Ender 3 Compression Springs Heated Bed Springs Mould Die Spring 3D Printer Spring Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6YCYP5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5T1X07DDT3CW5N283VBH
I know there are various opinions about this - (it voids your warranty) - but I just wanted to add another success story. I’m not an expert, but I know how to do a basic solder, which is all this takes.
Wiring diagram stolen from YouTube (sorry I don’t remember where) - will post in the comments.
Good luck and triple check the diagram!
Power Supply ($43.99) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJXW599/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JMDBZ78813JWQ4A5F1HQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Connector ($6.99) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DV1Z36A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Q8A54BDC7GMMN23YGZG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Shrink tubing ($2.18) - Local Home Depot
Easy then… hey I found one on Amazon that’s $50 usd, it’s enclosed, correct voltage/wats/amps & it just needs the molex.. Look at its feedback too, someone’s already confirmed it works
If there was an equivalent to the Franks hot sauce catch phrase, it would have to be the Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MK2QT1NGNREGEYH83M8E
A little pricey but “I put this $hit on everything”. Flight sticks, yikes, ruder pedals, arcade sticks, chairs, anywhere plastics meets metal, metal meets plastic. You get the idea.
Also GREAT for rejuvenating your cars door jam seals and keep your trim protected!
If this generation of pedals has that connector then it also has a USB B connector. The round connector is used for connection to the FANATEC wheel base. The square connector with corners cut off is for connecting to USB. One OR the other can be connected. The generic Fanatec drivers support this old pedal set. I am not sure about generic windows drivers.
I am still using a set like this. Great pedals if they work.
I got one on Amazon (for my bikes) for ~$35. So, obviously cheap, but it hasn't failed me so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCRN7PP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit - price apparently went up, it's $55 now but has a 10% off.
I used a 250w/10A/24v power supply on Amazon that was on sale for about 32 cad: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TTRY6XF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JB6ZWBE41BENBZAX119J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
After that I simply found an old 4 pin atx connector I tore off from a really old power supply and then a three prong power cable that was laying around. Both of these can be scrapped from places.
Added a 3d printed cover and badge thing because I was bored, but neither of these are necessary.
All I needed for equipment was wire strippers and a multimeter just to check and be safe.
Total cost for me, only the power supply, so give or take around 30 usd, also plan on getting a braided extension cable to look nice.
Honestly don't think you need to be a whole electrician to do this, it's stupid easy and can be done in like 10 minutes tops.
It happens with me as well and i didn't want to contact fanatec again. I've got a set of die springs and made a nice combination between pedal travel and pressure.
The loading grade of die springs in various colors (from lightest load to extra heavy load): yellow, blue, red, green, brown.
I believe metal springs is better.
Something like that: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07LBWST4F/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_97YHV62XJ8E11GPPJJAE?psc=1
Believe it or not, I actually use an Amazon handbrake. Its a standalone usb input unit and although the clamp down it comes with is not very good, I adapted it to work with my ASR3 with no issues. Its full metal construction and overall its been great ever since I bought it!
Although this isn't the exact model I have as those pictures are of what seems to be their updated model, here is the link: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QYF9RH9?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Not OP but I ordered these for my Secretlabs chair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RBTQ62B
Not in stock ATM, but you can see similar ones on that page. The 'roller blade' like wheels are great. FYI, I'm now only typically locking 2 of the wheels (one on each side) to keep me in place, so you probably don't need all 5 wheels to lock. I think there are some cheaper sets that only have 2 or 3 locking wheels. You also probably want ones that lock both the wheel rotation and swivel like these, that way you shouldn't have any movement when locked. Locked wheels by themselves could potentially still swivel.
There's only one drivehub (that I'm aware of)
https://collectiveminds-ca.myshopify.com/products/drive-hub
HORI mini
Yoga Mats are very bad for reducing vibrations, because your rig will stand still on the same spot the hole time and after a few moments the foam is all compressed together and the effect is nearly gone. I’m in the same boat like you and this solved this hole problem. Amazon Link
If you can manage to swing the shipping, that VNM handbrake @ $200 is probably your best bet, otherwise roll the dice on another V1.5, or maybe RMA the broken one for now. I have one of these cheap Amazon handbrakes, shit you can have it for all I care, it works fine, just built a bit sloppy.
I found these…they are hard 80+ and fit perfectly GAH-Alberts 338725 spacer sleeve | plastic | black | 20 pieces in 4 sizes | 20 x 5 mm / 20 x 10 mm / 20 x 20 mm / 20 x 30 mm https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B008KGAL28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_JSXMWJSNTR09P6ZFXY7X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For anyone searching for replacements and not finding any….like me…my 65’s started mushrooming… these are hard 80+ and fitted perfectly…GAH-Alberts 338725 spacer sleeve | plastic | black | 20 pieces in 4 sizes | 20 x 5 mm / 20 x 10 mm / 20 x 20 mm / 20 x 30 mm https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B008KGAL28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_JSXMWJSNTR09P6ZFXY7X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Machine screws, so they're like bolts. Like this, but the head doesn't matter so much, it could be hex, screw, flathead, Robertson, et cetera. It just needs to be able to hold onto the washer well.
M6-1.0 x 30 mm. Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, 100 pk. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071DVZ1ZP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_TYGYDAF9NHZ45NTFK4D2
I would like to do my own mod buying one of these : https://www.amazon.com/Vgoohobby-Aluminum-Absorber-Suspension-Compatible/dp/B095XXJXH2/ref=sr_1_9?crid=KK75SUDTHM57&keywords=vgoohobby%2Baluminum%2Balloy%2Bshock%2B130mm&qid=1646846549&sprefix=vgoohobby%2Baluminum%2Balloy%2Bshock%2B130%2Bmm%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-9&th=1
Would please provide the measures of the pieces ?
It seems the main piece is 13cm (or 5inches) ?
Have this seat:
NRG Innovations FRP-311 Race... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LEPJXUM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And these brackets because that have a bit more flexibility in mounting holes than the ones that came with the seat (but the defaults were fine)
vikofan 2Pcs Universal Seat Side Mount Brackets (90 Degree,Low Side) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08747NJG3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BD5JDEF5ZB2M7Y8C05FT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
As the other has said creative minds drive hub might be the solution to hey your current setup to work with just the drive hub. With PS5 you'll need this controller as well to make it work.
Furniture Cups - Bed Stoppers 4 PCS - X-PROTECTOR Premium Rubber Caster Cups Furniture Coasters – Best Furniture Caster Cups - Floor Protectors for All Floors & Wheels (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6KRXDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_N38SJNN1JJAYBXV9RTR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used to do this with an CSL Elite connected to a USB-switch to switch between PS4 and Xbox, worked fine! I used this switch; https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=G22KXG2OL0KG&keywords=sabrent+usb+switch&qid=1644213033&sprefix=sabrent+usb+switch%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-4
The brand is ViVO - Amazon find with decent reviews. It took my wife and I a good 15 mins off adjusting the mount to get it to move nicely. This mount also comes an option to drill holes and mount it directly to the desk, I'm going to do that but we are moving soon so I'll do it in the new place. The clamp mount is good but it's definitely pushing the limit with that monitor.