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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Hewlett_Packard:
![ORICO USB 3.0 to SATA III 2.5" External Hard Drive Enclosure for 2.5 Inch 7mm-9.5mm SATA HDD/SSD Tool Free [UASP Supported],Black(2189U3)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41J1ZWvmGwL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Hewlett_Packard:
Rufus
CPU-Z
Youtube-DLG
Screencast.com
Windows 10
Open Hardware Monitor
HWiNFO (32/64)
GPU-Z
SpeedFan
Hiren’s BootCD PE
BlueScreenView
FanControl by Rem0o
Flipkart
Macrium Reflect
Epic Games Store
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/Hewlett_Packard:
The most popular reviews in /r/Hewlett_Packard:
If you have at most two 1080p or 1440p (2560x1440) 60Hz screens connected via HDMI - 50$ Anker should be good enough, it works as a hub without a charger. This dock provides half of the DisplayPort 1.4 bandwidth via USB-C, therefore to figure out what resolutions and refresh rates would work - check the calculator (e.g., 2560x1440 60Hz*2 monitors = 120Hz gives about 12Gbpbs which is less than 50% of DP1.4 bandwidth). Dual 4K would work only 30Hz with that dock. And to make dual 4K 60Hz + USB*3* work from a single cable, you need either a Thunderbolt 3 dock (more expensive)... or forego single cable requirement and add a second monitor via 20$ USB-C -> DisplayPort 1.4 dongle.
This is a good dock. I have someone using a elitebook 1040 using this dock 24/7 and it works well including power delivery. StarTech.com Dual Monitor USB C Dock - for Windows Laptops - 4K MST - with 60W Power Delivery (USB PD) - Laptop Docking Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MPQ36T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O8OIBbHZHGB4S
Also pluggable - Plugable USB-C 4K Triple Display Docking Station with Charging Support for Specific Windows USB Type-C/Thunderbolt 3 Systems (1x HDMI & 2x DisplayPort++ Outputs, 60W USB PD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779K9DG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6.OIBbJ5X90EB
The HP usb C docks I’m not a real fan of, they haven’t been updated for a bit. You can pretty much use any USB C dock with PD (power delivery) so it’s just a single cable. That’s what you’ll want to search. I like the star tech one above. I also have a bunch of the small travel ones for my elitebooks that I use for dual monitor when I’m on business which work fine but if your using it full time stick with one that’s powered like above. For displays it’s thunderbolt C port is pretty capable, most of the docks use display link technology which is going to have a max resolution and monitor count depending on price.
This battery has good reviews and will fit your laptop: https://www.amazon.com/14-CE0068ST-15-CS0051WM-15-CS0053CL-15-DA0012DX-HSTNN-UB7J-11-55V/dp/B08YDL4RWK
If you go with an HP battery, get it directly from HP. There's a lot of counterfeit and used batteries out there.
It did, but at the same time I was assuming it would be a well known part since most of the monitors had this up until 2020 at least. Model 27fh After the first two responses, unsuccessful google and a joke of a trip though the HP support system, I said screw it and spent $30 on a replacement adapter that includes a metal piece to replace this. Which is literally the only thing I could find. Here is the link if you are curious. This is the piece that connects to the stands/mounts. There is no screw holes on the back of the monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Adapter-Mount-Compatible-Pavilion/dp/B01K5MHW2G
I have a monitor arm. That is what it fell off of. This may help. The piece that is broke is white in this example. Where is says "click" mine doesn't "click" https://www.amazon.com/MP-HP26-1-Monitor-Adapter-100x100mm-Conversion/dp/B08Z1JGJK5/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2VNHEK33ZIYV4&keywords=hp+27fh+vesa+mount+adapter&qid=1669321332&sprefix=hp+27fh%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-11
Is the label on the bottom gone? It looks like the USB-C Dock G5 and should have a part number labeled as "P/N"
They use a 19.5 V dc @ 6.15 A – 120 W power adapter. Here is an example: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0B2K91VYC/
You will never find 1st party keys for a laptop since HP will tell you to replace the entire keyboard.
This looks like the same as yours: https://smile.amazon.com/Replacement-Compatible-15-en0000-15-en0013dx-15-en0023dx/dp/B09PN794D9?sa-no-redirect=1
They all seem to be $60-70 USD though
I'm internal IT, and I wouldn't make the change you are suggesting company-wide. It isn't a problem with most machines, just a bunch of the HP machines when using the HP USB-C Dock which, IMO, is trash. I switched everything to the below dock which works MUCH better.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0928W3XHD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not a fan of the dock you have, it gave me way too many problems.
Something like this might work for you though: https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-3-0-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B078869LWB/
Would this work? Or you would need to fix the pin situation still? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Supply-TX500-G-SST-TX500-G/dp/B08WT6WCCQ
Looks like our HPs use TFX form factor. Based on the following video where a guy installs a regular ATX PSU in an HP but it requires him to do some cable magic. He makes it an external PSU since the case won't fit an ATX. I do not think he did anything requiring any super human skills (splicing cables, soldering etc.) but he did not explain what exactly he was doing. I get there is some pin inconsistency but at this point that is all I understand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRKOuI99jTI
Mind sharing which dock you use? I am looking for one now and am struggling. Is this a good option?
https://www.amazon.com/UtechSmart-Quadruple-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Ethernet/dp/B08R1YCT2Z/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=MGYKLJKLI0Z5&keywords=thunderbolt%2B3%2Bdock&qid=1661715592&sprefix=thunderbolt%2B3%2Bdock%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-1-spons&am...
I used this card. It's an Intel AX200. Windows has drivers for it, but it will download and install more current version on first start after you install it.
Yours is a standard m.2 wifi form factor-nothing abnormal.
You can use any m.2 wifi adapter-be advised, when you disconnect the antenna leads from the old card be gentle! If they don't come off easily, twist them gently while pulling upwards.
This upgrade will give you upto Wireless AX ability & Bluetooth 5. It has two antenna connections-main & aux. Your machine happens to also have 2x2, but if it didn't, simply connect to main.
Make sure you note which is which. the wire labeled #1 is main #2 is aux.
as stated, you can use any m.2 (non-vpro) wifi card.
https://www.amazon.com/919681-221-919682-121-919682-421-919682-831-919700-850/dp/B07QY74JVJ
I know this is USA amazon, but the description lists your HP model number (919682-121). If yours above doesn't, I'd email the seller and ask.
Most HPs don't have advanced BIOS settings. I suspect the BIOS doesn't support AHCI, at least in a way you can access through BIOS. Most Linux distros should work fine as is. Be warned Linux support for Realtek WiFi cards is really bad to non-existent. I suggest swapping for one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-802-11ax-Bluetooth-Adapter-Notebook/dp/B0B4T696W5
I'm sorry but you've lost me on which chargers I can buy and which I shouldn't. I Googled both HP Smart Pin adapter as well as USB power delivery 3 and didn't see any changers that would work?
Thank you! Yes, I knew that the charger could potentially go bad. I'm not even sure when that happened...years ago I think. It's really unfortunate that it looks like hp doesn't even sell many replacement chargers. I would pay more to have an hp one!
I laptop isn't listed under compatability, but my part # matches one they list in the middle of the page. It looks like its compatible? My charger says:
hp part# 853490-001
Replace with hp spare: 854116-850
Input: 100-240v 1.4A 50-60Hz
Output: 19.5v 2.31A 45w
I ended up snagging this off Amazon same day delivery as a quick fix and it worked after installing the software on the USB
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08XQHW8RT?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I have used thermal pads (like this one).
You need to make sure to get the right thickness pad, so that it contacts the chassi/laptop back cover (which acts as a heat sink).
Elitebook s ha metallic aluminum covers, so it works well.
I ordered this on Amazon and it works for what I need. I just needed my two external monitors to work with the laptop and this does the trick. Not sure why the docking station didnt work or if you need the entire docking station, or just the monitors. I can plug my mouse and keyboard into the sides of the laptop, no need for the other stuff. Just in case this helps you brotha!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKVY23Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
To use the USB-C connectors, you need this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B07F17ZHJY. I don't know what max resolutions you'll get hooking up that way. I'm too lazy to read your computer's manual.
The ones I found were too expensive and it made more sense to buy an DP to HDMI cable instead. I bought these and they work great for my use-cases: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824GWMB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
BTW, I don't remember the part number at this point so if you're looking for it try contacting HP sales and act like you want to order the part. That's what I did lol.
While your laptop supports a traditional hard drive, it doesn't come with one. To add one, you would also need the ribbon cable and connector. Your laptop either has an SSD soldered to the system board, or in a socket. If you still need a battery, I suggest this one: BK03XL Battery for HP Pavilion x360 Convertible 14-ba000 14-ba175nr ba110nr ba253cl ba125cl 14t-ba00 14m-ba000 14m-ba013dx ba0xx ba1xx ba015dx ba011dx ba014dx ba114dx 916811-855 916812-855 916366-421 for $32. Unless you can still buy a genuine HP battery directly from HP, any sold elsewhere are likely to be either used or counterfeit. This brand's been sold on Amazon for a number of years. Reviews of this brand are good.
What cable is in the way? With a little finagling, you maybe able to route in such a way the card is able to go in.
Are you talking about the front panel usb header(guessing)?
Maybe unplug it for now while you get your system up and just use the ports on the back until you get ==> https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Gelrhonr-Motherboard-Internal-Header-Black/dp/B0925QZ6B3/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=right+angle+usb+3.0+adapter&qid=1651443259&sprefix=right+angle+usb+3.0+%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-5
Try out this company I found called Custom Lux PCs. They have some really good prices and actually respond to my questions on Instagram. Definitely check with them because they have really fast responses and are super knowledgeable. I was given updates when my build was ready (under 1 week!) and it looked and performs awesome. They can do any spec list so shoot it by them for advice and maybe a better price. They did that for me at least.
AMAZON RTX 3080 PC only $2300: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Z8DWLVP/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3GLUJJGRMEPYE&keywords=custom+lux+pc+rtx+3080&qid=1651379248&sprefix=custom+lux+pcs+rtx+3080%2Caps%2C56&sr=8-3
Instagram: www.instagram.com/customluxpcs
Website: www.customluxpcs.com/request-a-build
Reviews: www.customluxpcs.com/reviews
SOLUTION!!
The problem was not the computer at all, but the dock. For some reason, the ~$400 HP USB-C Dock cannot support dual monitors at that resolution, the highest it will support is 1920x1080. I bought a universal Targus dual 2k dock (link below) for $150, and it works perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBPNCQK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_R5TP30V33EPS56SSR2TG
Hopefully this will help someone else with the same issue.
Sorry for the late response but I ended up buying the 16GB version of the RAM I described in the post. This specific set: Crucial RAM 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C53LL9J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. It works flawlessly and NO tweaking or configuring had to be done. I considered 32 but for this particular HP prebuilt and for my use (Steam, emulation, Discord, etc) 16 is more than enough for me.
I think you may have gotten the wrong type. Look here at Crucial.com's gauranteed compatible solutions. They only have the one notch. I think you bought this one.
Here is the link to the maintenance and service guide. Use it to pull the hard drive. If you want to access the data, you can buy a USB hard drive enclosure.
Since you can't use XMP ram, you must use jedec. The i9-9900ks memory controller is rated to 2666.
I would buy 2 sticks of this. It's guaranteed to work at the rated speed. 2x8GB. It will make a huge difference.
The memory you bought is good-but it won't run at 2666 without XMP so it shouldn't be used in this machine. If you had XMP, i'd say buy another stick of what you did but you don't so..in order to get the speed, you'll need to use the linked above.
I've used the specific pliers before and had no issues so far with small stripped screws, these are made especially for stripped small screws, they have vertical teeth on the tip to help grip the side of a screw head. A little pricy but then again they are made in Japan etc.
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2 different models btw. one larger one smaller.
FYI anyone interested, HP support said a USB 3.1 Type-C to DisplayPort would work, so i'm purchasing this - https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B078LGP33Y/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a set that I use specifically on HP notebooks when this happens. I can't find the set on amazon, but this is somewhat similar to what I have: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Stripped-HassleFree-Hardness-63-65hrc/dp/B07GZ17QD9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2TEI7KBVKGILY&keywords=screw+remover&qid=1647432926&sprefix=screw+remover%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-5
This will work well. I used it in mine. It runs at 3200.
Yeah you’re right - it doesn’t. Also, I’m ordering the crucial SSD. My dorm has a local computer so I think that’d be helpful for the creation tool that you talked about. Any further explanation on how to transfer the OS to my laptop? I’ve never done that before. Thanks a lot for coming in clutch 🙏👍
I bought the RAM separate from Amazon:
G.Skill RipJaws Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) 260-Pin SO-DIMM PC4-25600 DDR4 3200
https://www.amazon.com/HP-Computer-i9-9900K-Processor-875-1022/dp/B07QNZ8228
THAT'S my exact spec, I did install single ram stick [16gb] and more sata cable for harddrive. that's about it
Am I sure? No. But you have some time to return it. But like /u/mistakenotmy said, using the DVI connection is a better option. Here is one from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/CableCreation-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01FM52438
If it doesn't work, return both in a single trip.
I tried a bunch of different ones, until finally found one that works:
https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases
There's a learning curve, and I'm still trying to figure out the right profile.
There are also cheaper USB2-only alternatives that can do 3440x1440 60Hz + 1920x1080 60Hz + USB2 - e.g., https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746P6LPP/ (also they had dual DP versions but out of stock currently). Other similar cheaper options - https://dancharblog.wordpress.com/2021/01/03/4k60-monitor-plus-usb-devices-from-single-usb-c-laptop-port/ look at "4K60 USB-C HUBS FOR LAPTOPS WITH DP 1.2" options with multiple not mirrored video outputs (not so many options, really).
Sorry, I meant Spectre. Here's an example:
There are slight differences in the button functions, but the physical keyboard shape/layout appears to be identical, so buying a clear protector would probably work. I haven't bought it yet though!
Just following up on this, I bought this docking station: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B089CHQ67F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1, but actually the video and charging functions don't work on either of my laptops I'm guessing because the USB-C ports on them don't support that.
Do you know of any budget USB3 docking stations I could try? I want to connect 1 monitor with HDMI (or Displayport), a wireless mouse and keyboard and wireless headset and just be able to connect a USB into each laptop to switch in and out when I need to. Is this possible or is USB-C required for this?
Thanks man!
I decided to give this purchase a go. In case it really can't charge via USB-C, I will be using a Usb-C to HP DC input adapter (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-4-53-0mm-Adapter-Emulator-Trigger/dp/B07SMFD1QR ) and try with my 100W usb-c charger.
Laptop will be arriving next month, so will update the result on this thread later if anyone got the same question as me.
If that's all you want look into something super basic like this: https://smile.amazon.com/TOTU-Adapter-Ethernet-Compatible-Laptops/dp/B07M8HLGBF
There are, but they aren't as simple as using the recovery media creator. But why're you asking? Like you have ur PC so you could do that quite easily right?
EDIT: There's one another simple tool called Rufus. Link here. You'll have to download the Windows 10 ISO file from the Microsoft website and then use Rufus.
How did you make the windows 10 USB? Copying the iso file to the USB doesnt work.
If you have the ISO file, you can use Rufus to make the USB drive bootable.
Link to Rufus: https://rufus.ie/
Edit: doing this will erase everything on the USB drive, Rufus will also display a warning.
It's still called BIOS. :) I'm not seeing what anything in the Power Options would do other than preventing my display and computer from going to sleep. See screenshot. https://www.screencast.com/t/tZPXA2reP5
I'll check the BIOS for settings specific to the dock.
I suggest you buy a cheap pc on ebay or whatever that has better performance than your laptop, then use something like Parsec to remote into it. https://parsec.app/warp
If you already have a PC, then you're good to go with Parsec etc
Get a PCIe card based on the Intel AX200 (WiFi 6, Bluetooth 5).
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All done, and FAR more stable than any USB solution.
This is what I run in all my HP Zxxx towers.
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Here's one card I've used, but there are plenty of options. I like this one because it comes with the antenna with the magnetic base that you can place on the side/top of the tower:
Systems like this
Oh and can you explain why it says 750W PSU, on an HP?
They just expect you to buy new pens. Email them about replacement tips but they don't sell them.
My advice is to upgrade to a better pen with replacement tips.
The hp active pen is kind of heavy and doesn't feel natural to use but I think that is the case with most if not all active pens.
Read the reviews, either the seller is trying to push the myth that the replacement stylus he is selling will work for HP envy pen, or it actually will.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB3Y89E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I personally went with this cooler but I added a 3700x and a 3060Ti. My CPU overheats with no load it is very odd. I installed a 90MM Noctua fan for exhaust and a 90MM Noctua fan on the side where the vent is located for intake and another 60MM Noctua fan in front behind the hard drive cage for intake. I want to just build my own PC I have to save up.
Update for anybody else: swapped out the cable as suggested and replaced it with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HBDTP4C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CK4VN5DJGZ1C6VQS7FZ5
Working a treat, now powering both 4k monitors at 60Hz.
Thanks for the help again!
Itll just be a generic laptop sata dvd.
The model specific part will be the mounting brackets, and the front plastic cover.
If you are happy having a hole in the front rather than a plastic bezel thing, and potentially having the drive flopping around without being screwed in you could get just about anything:
https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B0759T68KM
I dont know why thats in german btw but cant be bothered fixing it.
I bought mine used at 32gb i7 15.6” on Amazon. They had multiple available so I figured they were built that way. This suggests they may have been modified? Or just an older model? Link here.
I put the 2TB Adata XPG SX8200 Pro in my Envy x360 13. It is double sided and I used the original heatsink that was on the original drive. It was tight - but did not cause any issues with the keyboard or heat problems. It's been a great drive - with over 3,000MB/s performance.
POWERSUPPLY If you are talking about a 500W power supply I would go for EVGA 500 W 80 Plus Bronze series. EVGA is name brand and has a 3 year warranty.
Get a screw driver kit that has every bit you need for anything like this
The charger is 65W and this is the hub - from what I read, the hub uses 15W so I assumed it would work. Now you mention it though, I just tried it with the laptop off and it started charging, so it does seem like the hub isn't delivering enough power.
Would you have any recommendations on a dock/charger that would work? I'm a bit stumped as I expected the current set up to do the trick.
>13-ba0010na
Is the charger Power Delivery 3.0? Depending on what the hub is requesting for specs (5V/3A, 12V/1.25A, etc) - that will impact what the laptop is able to negotiate with what is left. In theory, an Envy 13 should charge with a minimum 15V/3A or 20V/2.25 - mine does but it's an x360 AMD model. It's possible the Intel version needs 60w minimum to charge over usb while turned on.
If the charger is only a Power Delivery 2.0 spec - that could be the issue. Of course, with the new GAN chargers, you can get high power with a small package - so if you like the hub...upgrade to a charger like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JM1XN4T currently under $30 with coupon - but if you're outside the US - just find something that works for you over 75w (usually you find 90w or 100w chargers) and I'm guessing that will work.
Yes, SATA is the same for an optical drive and HDD and 2.5" SSD. SATA is a standard that uses a seperate power and data cable.
The connectors look like this.
I think at least 45w with Power Delivery 3.0 specs works (it does for me). My 30w Dell charger wouldn't work.
Most of the new 65w GAN chargers are as small as a 45w charger - so I would look at those.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/UPGROW-DisplayPort-Compatible-MacBook-laptops/dp/B088GB848W I have this cable for hp envy 15 and it works fine but I would I advise to with the 8k@60hz cable for future proofing. Mine has the thunderbolt 3 port, not all hp envy have the same ports so please make sure which one is supported by your model!
For USB-C to DP cables, it's usually enough to know that DisplayPort is supported and its version over USB-C in the laptop specs. And the cable you linked would work for DisplayPort 1.2 monitors for sure, but it's only rated for DisplayPort 1.2. (4K 60Hz, 2560x1440 165Hz, etc.) by the manufacturer. It may work for DP1.4, but not guaranteed.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-USB-C-Supporting/dp/B01J6DT070 is rated for DisplayPort 1.4 by the manufacturer and costs about the same. I would buy a DP1.4 rated cable to make it more future proof (e.g., 4K 120Hz will definitely work if you ever need it and monitor supports it).
If you need a proper dock - knowing small pieces of the spec is not good enough to provide optimal suggestions. (exact GPU may matter, Thunderbolt 3 vs. USB-C with DP, recommended power supply, what monitors are planned, etc.)
The specifications say labels it as USB Power Delivery and DisplayPort 1.4. So if I were to buy this cable: Amazon.com: USB C to DisplayPort Cable for Home Office (4K@60Hz, 2K@165Hz), uni Sturdy Aluminum DisplayPort to USB C Cable [Thunderbolt 3 Compatible] for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air/iPad Pro 2020/2018, XPS 15/13: Computers & Accessories. Will that work properly or should I use the ones that you listed in your comment.
I'm planning to buy this one (renewed version) https://www.amazon.com/HP-D9Y32AA-UltraSlim-Docking-Station/dp/B00GD7BA2Q/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=D9Y32AA&qid=1611078825&sr=8-2 for my Ellitebook 745 G45
I have this model and just upgraded it to 32gb CL20 DDR4 3200mhz.
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Impact-3200MHz-HX432S20IB2K2-32/dp/B08K9BMWDD
Really helped a lot on the gpu front to free up some more memory for it on modern titles. Smoother performance and higher fps.
Literally plug and play, not even a complaint about a change on boot.
yep its easiest to just put an extension cord on the existing cord. But the Omens adapter usually uses the slotted type plug. If that is what you have, Amazon has them in various sizes. Just look at the plug and match the type... Example
I haven't been able to find how thick the thermal pads are, but I'd assume they'd be pretty thin. The thinnest that I've found on Amazon is .25mm. If they turn out to the thicker than .25mm, you can always stack thermal pads on top of each other to make up the height difference.
Will this be compatible with my laptop? Ssd: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_KOo5FbFBWEG9N?psc=1 this is a samsung ssd and will this work too Ram: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5389HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_-Ro5Fb98YYNZB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have the 2TB version of this Adata and it works great!
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Was a little tight - as the original ssd has chips on only one side - but it went in and I haven't had any issues.
Just be slow with peeling back the rubber feet and it should be easy. You can pry the back off by starting at the hinge.
I do the same. Got some nfc stickers from AliExpress. NFC tools is a good app. I don't use a windows app but a quick search should give you some options.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wakdev.wdnfc
If you end up looking for an MST hub anyway later - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Splitter-Compatible/dp/B08MTLVRSF has one HDMI and two DisplayPort for ~70$ (US). It seems to fit better for your situation (one DP, one HDMI right now), also allows one more 1080p 60Hz added later (will require disabling internal screen for triple external 1080p 60Hz).
I use the Microsoft Surface Pen in Cobalt Blue. Typically, they're $69.99 ish. I've had mine since April 2019 and have yet to change the battery.
I bought an 'active stylus' on Amazon, which is what I'm supposed to have. (I have almost the same laptop as you, I have a 360 Pavilion) The price wasn't bad either, $40. However, my laptop does not detect it, therefore I can't do the whole 'find my pen' 'find my device' option if it's lost. When I contated the seller, he told me it doesn't connect, which is odd. Why would it need a battery if it didn't connect???
Anyway, just some info I thought you should be aware of...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXWLXB9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you have a rooted android phone and USB OTG capability, you can look into this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.softwarebakery.drivedroid.paid&hl=en_SG
Do you have a 13" or 15" Spectre?
I have the 13" from a few years earlier. I can comment that the provided supply is overpowered (this is pretty typical). 45W is more than enough to charge the 13" and keep it charged (I usually use the one below). IDK with the 15" - it has a discrete video card, right? It might have modes where it really needs all that power.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083J1T7CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9qMpFbP4BQEK6
If you have the 13" then what you linked is correct, though - at least in the US, it's what ships with the device.
Hey everyone I found thisfan tear down. and I figured since I'm that close to the CPU mind as well change the thermal pastepaste. I remember seeing this guy also use thermal tape on the heat transfer copper thing leading to the fan. Would that be wise to use the thermal tape on the brass thing like a strap or 2. Also clean the old thermal paste and change with new. Is it possible to use them both in conjunction with one another for max heat distribution so the laptop would run cooler. Can someone please clarify on this.
Would the Thunderbolt dockingstation work if I use an USB-A male to USB-C female adapter? Since there is a USB-A with thunderbolt.
Like the Angelbird USB A to C? USB Adapter
Power and usb c are are split through the compatibility cable.
yo i got one with a gtx 1660ti, but thats not what this comment is about, what cooler did u buy cause i need one cause when under load my cpu gets kinda hot, i really need one, im currently looking at the Noctua NH-19x65, do u know if that'll work?? ive got an i7 9700 and ik it uses the same socket but im talking about footprint, heres a link to it on amazon.
Thanks
I cancelled my order and bought an Asus from Amazon.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X1TZT85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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My HP order was originally 1100 before a 300 "coupon" by HP. The Asus is the same price as the original HP price but has more capable components. I ordered Asus on May 22 and it shipped yesterday.
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I recommend that you pursue other options.
I might try with one of these Vampliers Mini https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Vampliers-Mini-Alicates-extracción-tornillo/dp/B00LMMU2HG/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=vampliers+mini&qid=1588123190&sr=8-1#customerReviews
I will try to get them at Walmart since are quite expensive on Amazon, hope these work well for this.
Is your storage SATA or M.2? Because that is a drive that would go in your M.2 port. Most likely you have SATA if you have an HDD.
Edit: Here is a SATA SSD 500GB that I would recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1571658770&sr=8-3
I bought a set of corsair vengeance 2x16gb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G26166W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Semi-related: Shouldn't have gone to see the price, only $150! I paid $215 6 months ago.
What exactly is your Pavilion model? You might be able to find what kind of connector the dvd drive uses, if it's indeed a proprietary connector, in the manual. And you might be able to proceed to finding a splitter from that.
edit: it might be using slimsata (notebook) standard for dvd drives. If that's the case, something like this should work, but you lose the ability to use the dvd drive.
You can also get a molex to sata power dongle, but if your psu is missing sata connectors hoping it has molex connectors would be too optimistic.
Btw, make sure to check if there aren't open, unused cables stashed somewhere out of view, all the older model Pavilions I've worked with before had psus with a whole set of necessary connectors.
If you buy a laptop sold as new the warranty begins the date of purchase. That's why you always want to keep your receipt.
>And I have no need for business-specific features
Typically the only difference you might see in a business class notebook is a smart card slot and a workstation GPU instead of consumer GPU.
I bought a Zbook 14 G2, 14" 1080p IPS panel display, i5-5300u, 8GB DDR3, Intel 256GB SSD, Firepro 4150, wireless-AC, bluetooth, NFC, with their slimdock for $350. Had 18 months of onsite warranty left when I bought it. All from an ebay vendor.
The biggest advantages to their business class machines are the support, which is pretty good and allows for things like just telling them which part is bad, they'll send you that part so you can install it yourself and include a shipping label to send the bad part back. Because extended warranty packages stick with the machines even after being refurbed/resold you may find your business class HP has an onsite warranty, meaning you call them, describe your problem and they'll send someone to you to repair the unit while you wait.
The build quality tends to be better too. I can't recommend going that way enough.
Radeon R7 M260 i5-5300U 8GB RAM + Dock + Extra Batt
Ok, so if I used this approved card (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-3160-Wireless-Bluetooth-Supports/dp/B00IOS19E6) is 5 GHz the same as 5.8? will it work with standard 5? (sorry for all of the basic questions I know like zero about this lol)
Just in case someone stumbled across this and has the same problem, I think the original drive was DOA. I RMA'd it to crucial. I purchased a Toshiba OCZ RD400 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G3HLOYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it works great, although the board apparently has PCIe Gen 2 instead of 3 so it runs a little slower but still very fast.
Anyway, hope this helps someone in the future. I contacted HP executive support team and have yet to hear back a week later. Guess they don't care.
for anyone looking for a good capacitive stylus for the 13-w0xx variant, I will recommend the adonit jot pro or the adonit jot mini or any other disc type stylus I believe would work. I have been looking for a good stylus and this is what worked best for me (I personally bought the silver adonit jot pro mini to match the laptop) . After all the research I have done (someone please correct me if I am wrong because if so I will buy one immediately), there are no compatible active stylus for this model.