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Order Gorg arrowtips or any other battlegames modular tips or make your own. Plenty of guides out there for Dag.
Order arrows and take a hacksaw to get them to length. You can get multiple bolt shafts per arrow.
Buy some extra nocks. Plenty on amazon like Amazon has here
Cut off the vanes on the existing ends. Make new ones from cardstock and duct tape.
If you make your own tips you can crank out like 30 for $100 which is an insanely low price.
The organs in jars thing! I would just get some fake organs of amazon, something like this, then get a big enough jar to hold it. Melt some gelatin into water on the stove and then add it to the water you use to suspend the organ. It gives a different look/feel to the jar. Make sure to add a tiny bit of food coloring (red, or whatever color you want the monster's blood to be) to the mix before you pour it into the jars.
For anyone not knowing, I'm playing a Nosferatu who are famous for being hideous. This mask is a way to conceal it and save me the time on makeup.
Thanks to This guy for the blueprints. I first made it on paper, strengthened it with cardboard and finished it off with sheet metal and hot glue.
There is a game called WitchWood. They use a fair few physreps for resource gathering and recipe construction, which seems to be a large part of game play. At NELCO 2015, their demo table had all kinds of physreps for reagents, potions, etc. You should contact them and ask more detailed questions.
As a fan of the board game Caverna, a mix of wood blocks and acrylic gems, both painted and unpainted would probably grab my attention immediately. Grab a 2x2 board and a saw. You'll have all the wood blocks you need. Come to think of it, I have some spare 2x2 boards... Hmmm. Now I'm tempted. A pyrography kit and some simple icons, say from LORCs RPG Icons, might make some interesting 'resources'.
On a side note, if you can manage to find it for a decent price, I can totally recommend the following book: https://www.amazon.com/Techniques-Medieval-Armour-Reproduction-Century/dp/1581605366
I happen to have a copy of it, and it details in great lengths how to articulate armor pieces, how to attach them to each other, etc.
What country are you larping in? in australia there are not many places to buy best chance is to make http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-duct-tape-sword/#step1 that's a pretty good and easy one to make
Just a couple more notes for that wall of text - keep shooting us questions if you like.
Gotta be safe with the weapons - if you don't have any I recommend Mashoonga (if you want to be safe) or something like http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Safe-Long-PE-foam-sword-Toy_1981532783.html (If you want to go cheap and not quite as safe - the cores of these are narrow fiberglass rods that can sting). No real larp would ever use these, but you're only doing this for a day so I can't imagine that you'd want to lay out the money for actual larp weapons. You could make your own if time and effort are way easier for you to get than money, but it's a process.
It's not easy to run something like this - it helps to plan well, and that your group likes roleplaying will help. People get shy and if at least some of you are good at acting out and being animated enough to get a group of people comfortable, that'll help too. I recommend keeping it light - no need for everyone to come up with a name and backstory unless they want to. And try to get at least a few people to help you plan it and sort of organize on the game day - most likely the wizard guy since he can explain it all. (you should be an NPC too, of course, not a clipboard guy.)
Boot or shoe covers. You can make them yourself or (given the size) order a custom set from the internet. Google can help you there. :)
How to link. http://aminoapps.com/page/cosplay/2870832/removable-boot-cover-nonstretch-tutorial
Someone in the comments says they used these for reenactment shoes. They’re pretty thin though: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K276YXV/
If you want to spend a lot of money a lot of shoe brands that target more environmentally friendly people (Birkenstock, Vibram) sell soles as well but those are often in the ~$30-40 USD range while these are cheap enough you won’t feel bad if they don’t work.
Medium/high-end LARP/Battlegame crossbow maker here. If you're in the US, I recommend these for shafts as they're the cheapest good quality bolt I've found. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carbon-Express-Wolverine-20-Crossbolt/27441605
In-season and around clearance they're usually cheaper.
You can find some cheaper fiberglass ones pretty easily on amazon as well, though. https://www.amazon.com/Crossbow-Fiberglass-Fletched-Replaceable-Aluminum/dp/B01HLWCKD4
Also be sure to recognize that the number of vanes will affect how your bolt rests on the shelf. Some players opt for two-vane bolts and make their own vanes, while I prefer the the stock three-vane configuration. You'll need to route recesses into the shelf for the shaft and possibly vanes accordingly, with a three-grove recess for triple-vane configurations and only one groove for double-vane ones.
Looking at some of your previous comments, elastic storage isn't a good option for crossbows. It poses a pretty big safety risk and makes your bows prone to mechanical/catastrophic failure as the string will whip back at your hands (and in front of you) and possibly get caught on the front of the shelf. Elastic strings are explicitly banned in a few games I play for these reasons.
PVC prods work; if they buckle on you, it's because of how you're making them. Are you flattening the pipe properly/straight? How thick of pipe are you using? You don't need thick pipe for small bows. I have PVC prods that are only 16" long with double recurves that draw 35# at 12" and I usually get between 1-2 years on each prod before they start to flex out poundage. Only two have ever failed on me.
Check your group's archery rules for arrowheads and bow poundage rules as well. A golf-ball size head can be pretty brutal with accidental shots to the eye and especially coming from a bow over 25 lbs. Definitely ensure you either use a kit or find tutorials for LARP-safe archery as well.
my game has 3 coins- coppers, silver, and gold.
funny enough, I think the coppers are the most labor-intensive to produce. I don't know exactly what they are, but they're some sort of metal disc covered in a metallic copper colored resin. they also get handled the most, so they're pretty durable. while googling to try to find what they are, I found that you could look into stamping blanks. I'm not sure that's what we use, but they would work well.
we use these for the silver and gold. and I mean, yeah, a player can just go out and buy them, but there's a certain amount of honor inherent in any game. they're about 25c/coin.
On coin return rate- one advantage of our game is we have an extremely high player retention rate, which leads to a low coin loss rate from people leaving the game. silvers and gold flat-out do not get lost, as they're valuable enough in-game that players will keep track of them of their own accord.
frankly, our whole economy is based around tiny, often fragile items, and the players have gotten very good at keeping track of them. when the largest piece of loot is the size of a nickel, everybody learns to carry a coin purse quick, you know? another contributing factor is it's a low-resource game. a hard-working player might collect, over the course of one session, a dozen resources or coppers combined.
when you factor in resources expended, cashed-out in the game shop, and coins consolidated into higher value coins, average players aren't usually in possession of more than a few real-life dollars worth of coins and resource tokens at once. as an example, I've been playing for about one year. I currently have 7 coins and 24 paper resource tokens. the most coins I've ever had was 23 coins, and that was nearly all coppers because I forgot to consolidate near the end of session.
Every so and on there are editor printing copies of old magic book. Something like that (in your language) can be a great prop.
Note that I see the "real-life magic book can make some people uncomfortable" concern as a legit concern (Just like most game don't use the castle chapel as an IG location)
If not the classic leather book that you fill in-game is a classic option (it's even more funny when you have notes from 3 games inside)
The Arts of Larp. Covers larp from the theater point of view.
Here are some other options from other developers:
RoboVox Voice Changer on Google Play (android) is another. It has a real-time mode as well.
On iOS, you can try VoiceMod - it has a few voices that can be used for characters. By the way audio latency is way better on iOS (but Android is improving).
If you use Android, you can try our pro audio app - it includes these voices: Effects:
Volume
3-band Equalizer
Pitch
Voice Changer:
Dark Father - not affiliated with Darth Vader or Star Wars
Rylo Ken - not affiliated with Kylo Ren or Star Wars
Dane - not affiliated with Bane or The Dark Knight Rises movie
Exterminator - not affiliated with Dalek or the BBC
Space Trooper - not affiliated with Stormtroopers or Star Wars (this one will be improved in the next update)
Captain Phase - not affiliated with Captain Phasma or Star Wars
We don't use any copyrighted images, or audio. Speak samples are original dialog and were generated using the app.
The app link is here
Just plug in a male-to-male cable to the phone jack, and the other end goes into the gaming hardware mic jack - just remember to keep volume very low initially (so you don't blow anything out with loud volume).
Now after jack is plugged into phone, pressing Record in the app will echo the recorded audio to the output as well.
Click Effects - Voice Changer and pick from the effects. Or just use the Effects - Pitch (which is free) - or the Equalizer.
Let me know if you have issues.
Yeah, that sounds like a great idea. The horns and face are the part I have the least clear idea how you would do...
Given that your getting a cloth torso, you should grab faux fur as well. I'd hand stitch the faux fur to the cloth torso using linen thread. Now these should both be lighter in color, as the muscle shirt you got is also fairly light.
Once it's all assembled start adding stains and dyes. Maybe something more yellow for the un furred part, and something darker for the fur patches.
So, I couple of things.
You look dope, but things that would really bring it all together:
A wider belt. Something like a kidney belt or just a 3-4" wild belt across your midriff would make a huge difference visually.
Break up some of the blue with a sash, a dangly thing from your belt, maybe a vest
Boots are obviously on your radar. Dont be scared of taking a gamble for garb. Not everything has to be crazy expensive off of Etsy. I bought a LOT of stuff off Amazon. I bought these and they have held up amazing.
For weapons you can hit people with, yeah the ones you buy from Epic Armory or Calimacil are going to be expensive, but you only have to buy them once. OR you can make your own. They are super easy to make, yeah they won't look as professional, but you get better each time.
If you're fighting, you won't want the cape
Maybe consider some fingerless gloves or something. I found they did a really good job filling out my "arm garb".
Speaking of, get some padding under your bracers. You will thank me. Doesn't have to be anything crazy. I bought a leather jacket that has some fake fur on it, cut the sleeves off, and slipped them over my forearms. Then put the bracers on.
Overall, you look awesome. Can't wait to see your character evolve!
Also, I have that same pouch LOL
If it should be edible id recommend pearl luster dust Here would be a link from one version i got gifted to make "upgraded potions" https://www.amazon.com/Luster-container-Oh-Sweet-Art/dp/B07DVXNRXF
Really seems like something like a nerf Vortex would be a great stand in for.
https://smile.amazon.com/NERF-Long-Distance-Flight-Optimizing-Whistling-Exclusive/dp/B0949G6769/ref=sr_1_6?crid=31V20HUKSFRRB&keywords=nerf+throwing+dart&qid=1659547888&sprefix=nerf+throwing+dart%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-6
The link you shared was for 97/3 cotton/spandex t-shirts, which are definitely affordable. Linen or Linen/Cotton blend t-shirts are about 4 times that price, both where I am in the US and in the UK (based on Amazon). https://www.amazon.co.uk/YAOBAOLE-Cotton-Henley-Sleeve-Hippie/dp/B09WVNBC24/ref=sr\_1\_7?crid=1IIYGQDLIHEP9&keywords=linen+t+shirt+men&qid=1658839904&sprefix=linen+t+shirt%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-7
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fruit-Loom-Valueweight-Sleeve-T-Shirt/dp/B00B698C9A/
Literally a cheap white shirt from Amazon and a pack of bootlaces, I don't know what bargain brand stores America has so I'm hesitant to say like 'Walmart', but literally a UK Tesco has these sorts of things. Basically, anything that isn't a stretchy polyester passes for tunic as a glance
This is the best blood paint I have ever found:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TT856HG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Use Mica powder when mixing to give it a sparkling/ magical look
So I am pretty sure it is shaped PVC. So you'd need a heat gun and some PVC Pipe, a vice, something to shape with, like a metal pipe and some pilers. Heat and bend into the right shape. Use the Vice to hold one end as you work
OR get some broom/tool clips
https://www.amazon.com/Holder-Stainless-Mounted-Organizer-Storage/dp/B08MZPK5L3
There is also the option of hand sewing which takes longer but when mistakes come up especially in learning how to sew say a hem, you have the benefit of easily undoing your last stitch versus pulling every thread out in the libe and doing it again. There's also the bonus of rhe look of aunthenticity of a hand-sewn stitch versus a sewing machine.
See if your local library has this book to checkout (or other books even like it).
https://www.amazon.com/Costume-Technicians-Handbook-3/dp/0325004773
Its pages on hand sewing are especially helpful along with other costuming tid bits (We used this in our costume construction courses for Theatre Arts in college). If you go the route of hand-sewing, practice-practice-practice the Back Stitch. Its the strongest stitch that existed prior to what machines can do and used for a very very long time pre-machines.
Roleplaying Game Studies by Zagal and Deterding. There's a lot in this book from studies across a variety of disciplines. It was super useful when I did a paper on the use of roleplaying in a classroom.
I've used vials like these in the past. The ones I used were 13mm by 75mm (approx .5"x3")
Alcohol-free beer is no problem it hydrates very well and is used by athlets.
Much cheaper and really good for the ambience is having an antique looking tea pot (https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Lifestyle-Teapot-Bamboo-Handle-Filter/dp/B074F11VK7/ref=sr\_1\_27?crid=1GM3UJHM3O72K&keywords=lehre%2Bteekanne%2Bton&qid=1653052083&sprefix=schlichte%2Bteekanne%2Bton%2Caps%2C73&sr=8-27&th=1) and to bring pepermint, sage or other teas either as leaves or as plants in pots with you. If you make hot water for breakfast anyway, put some leaves into the pot and fill it with hot water.
Unlike tea from teabags tea from fresh leaves doesn't turn bitter (you can take out the leaves when it's cold) and can be drunk cold the whole day. If it's only cooled down to the surrounding temperatute it's much better for the body tham cooled beverages.
There are apps like this:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.quicklear.fotocoordenadas&gl=US
which will tag the longatude and latitude to the photo. So take a photo and location of your hiding spot. Then at the end of game you can go through the database.
I have a canvas bag I use for weapons. You can find some that already have a shoulder or backpack strap but it's also easy to add one.
For shields I have a folding wagon.
I've seen folks use the bottle from energy shots. They're normally clear containers and plastic. Something like this.
This sort of thing?
You may need to import them, but searching "larp plastic vials" / "larp plastic potion" seems to give plenty of hits. Failing that, try checking the larp subreddit for US-based store threads, since many of them would likely stock options.
This was the best I could find, but you would need to find corks for the bottles
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OP, clearly everyone is saying your hands, so I have some suggestions!
1) fingerless or partial fingerless gloves! There are ones that go only over your palms, or ones that leave the thumb and index finger open. Both would look sexy AF.
2) if not gloves, maybe makeup! Black makeup applied correctly over the backs and sides could look amazing, but you would need to do research for how to do it right and have it stay in place.
3) fake nails w/ the addition of the makeup coming back over the fingers would look like talons and be god damn amazing.
4) My best option for you - GET THESE. class + work with touch … they look like bird talons so perfect for this! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DCPWQMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HMX99Q59EQVEKGEHD3MM
I honestly wouldn't use something made of plastic that is made to be destructed. Especially if you larp outside, leaving plastic behind isn't a good look and constantly having to pick up plastic streamers would be annoying. How about yellow, orange and red juggling scarves instead?
It's the McCall Sentinel pattern, here's a link to it on Amazon
Cosplay by McCall's M2080A50 "Sentinel" Sewing Pattern, A5 (6-8-10-12-14) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP67QCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_KJH8D09WFQ06SY4GZG42?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I actually got the fur on Amazon. It has a latch on the front that you close up after wrapping yourself. It did come with a pin but I don’t use it and it held up just fine during game, including lots of combat and running in the snow.
Link: Aukmla Women's Brown Faux Fur... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TJG282O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you guys do enjoy the series check out the second episode and support the Kickstarter for a full season!
"Episode 2" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7A16nl662w
Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kristinbrumley/basic-adventuring-101-larp-webseries-season-1
Huh, that's interesting as I somehow always assumed Tintagel was a HEMA group or something. I just know they're hardcore with the live steel full-on combat stuff when I'm just looking for fantasy boffer fun. I'll check out the others you mentioned.
​
I don't have the resources or clout to start from scratch. I did look at how much it would cost to start up a NERO chapter here and it's way more than I'm willing to commit. So I was just wondering if it would be better to try to bump up the player numbers by going to the expat community like RPG groups on Meetup.com or just give up on forming a community here and go to another country for my LARP stuff. Obviously, it would be an annual or biannual event for me if I did that.
So if I'm reading right, your LARP doesn't use arrows and a quiver, just tag bags?
In that case I'd get a medic bag for the tag bags. It's light, you can adjust where it sits and has plenty of space. Then get a frog scabbard for the sword.
A lot of people at my LARP (high fantasy themed) use this for item tags:
Pocket Compendium: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NBRKN5P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Maybe you could find one more fitting from the same seller or make your own slip cover for it so it fits your setting.
I guess the rules are... easy to get?
That's the only reason I can see to use Nero rules. They really are the opposite of fun.
I've played Larps all over North America and Europe. The Lorien trust has a very simple set of rules (hey, when you have 2000+ people on a battle field, it had better be easy to remember) but they can be a bit too simplistic for smaller groups.
Have you seen these? Our local groups use them;
https://www.amazon.com/Havok-Live-Role-Playing-Jason-Booth/dp/9681263081
I typically use .505 inch filament wound epoxy tubing (fwet) for cores. I use 1 inch fwet for the grip. When making the area to carry batteries, I build 4 inches so that the .505 fits snugly into place on the interior and the grip fits snugly over that. I epoxy the .505 into place, and then drill a hole 3.5 inches down the overlap area so that I can put a pin through all 3 pieces.
I also LOVE these. Super cheap, sharpen with a knife.
Pencils like this never actually existed until recently, but they look cool and old fashion, so it certainly works.
BSIRI Pencil Wood Favors of Graphite Wooden Tree Rustic Twig Pencils Unique Birch of 12 Camping Lumberjack Decorations Party Supplies Novelty Gifts as a Natural Pencil Gifts for Kids in Classroom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GPSHWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NH5Y5GVW9XHGX7Y7P9NS
A bit if an expensive option is to find plunger style fountain pens. They are a tad close to modern pen styles dating to early 19th century. But they still look cool and hold a period type if charm when you have to bust out the ink bottle to refill the reservoir.
Or you could meet in the middle and get a modern fountain pent and put a feather on it. I got this set and I love it! They are BOTH a plunger refillable fountain pen AND ink cartridge refillable. Super convenient.
GCQUILL Calligraphy Set Fountain Pens 7 Different Size Nibs and 36 Assorted Ink Cartridges Kit for Calligraphy Lettering - Complete Easy Learning Set for Beginners F736 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0822D5Y2T/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_64GHBX64QGAT06ZERFKF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you! And yes, absolutely. So, basically I would say: 5v usb batteries that are cylindrical, up to ±15 cm of lenght x ±3 cm diameter. Something like this. Ideally, one that starts chargin as soon as you plug the cable in. Hope this helps!
Think the original got taken down, but it was one of these https://www.amazon.ca/Armor-Venue-Medieval-Burgonet-Costume/dp/B00C7H99FQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=burgonet&qid=1632849764&sr=8-5
Chainmail Tunic and Cowl | Adult Size | Silver | 1 Pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQQWCJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JNW1WSCMRCB85W1KTY3J This is what i got it went up in price a little bit its not too bad
Ah! The spraycan PD!
Back when I investigated a number of years ago, the spraycan PD was a different formulation than the liquid variety that came in cans for dip-coating, and had a reputation for being too stiff.
It looks like these days the liquid variety is sold in 14.5 cans (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11621-Plasti-Dip-GunMetal/dp/B01MG36T50?sa-no-redirect=1&pldnSite=1, though you can probably find a better price than Amazon.) Grab an empty paint can and mix the liquid PD and naphtha. I don't remember the exact ratio any more, but it sounds like you're prepared to mess around a bit. You're going for something easily brushable, but thick enough that you won't need multiple coats. Maybe 4:1 PD/naphtha?
Thank you! I’ve been thinking a lot on what type of armor I should get. The character in playing a heavy armor knight, I’ve got my gambesons, boots, weapons already. But I suppose I’m nervous about armor. It’s so much more particular. If my armor isn’t fitted to my body properly it either won’t look right, or be increasingly uncomfortable.
I’ve gotten some weapons from medieval collectibles, and I’ve been looking at the nauticalmart armor since it’s affordable and seems to work relatively well. There were the pieces I was thinking in particular
​
I don't understand why a sheet costs 15 euro and and the other one 75
As a guy who just got 2 crossbows(Bought 1 and built 1) for LARP the cheapest way I went about getting the bolts was buying these off amazon and buy your appropriate length bolt shafts from a retailer that sells sporting goods.
Anyone looking to argue my comment about "safety concerns" all I'm going to say is I went by what would be within regulation of "making" bolts my local LARP's game runners.
You would not believe all of the things you can find on Amazon. Is it more of an RP or a combat-focused LARP though? Another factor I guess there could be is if you are wanting to play a wizard character or more of a Templar. Stay away from anything made of cotton though, and maybe even consider making your own? A few yards of fabric can be under $20 at some Walmarts/hobby lobby stores, plus, sewing is really not as hard as most people would think.
Or
Hulu/sling/youtubetv for free (subscription)
Google/youtube/vudu/Prime for rental per episode or season
Here's a link to the lantern I got. It's solar so it charges during the day and comes in when it's dark. Good hunting and happy adventures!
For golf shafts, I also recommend using sticky back craft foam to build up the core so that it fits snugly inside whatever foam you are using for the blade. This is necessary because the shaft is tapered, and having the core "loose" inside of the foam will slowly destroy your foam from the inside.
You can find the craft foam at walmart, or amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Baker-Ross-Self-Adhesive-Assorted-Childrens/dp/B007ZDMC3I/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=peel+and+stick+craft+foam&qid=1553183548&s=gateway&sr=8-11
I'm not sure if it's what you're asking for, but I personally like Forged Foam arrow head kits. They aren't The Best in any particular category, but they work well, and at $3 a pop are affordable. (Also they result in a head safe arrows, for games where that is allowed. Also means they're a lot nicer when accidental headshots happen.) https://www.forgedfoam.com/product/arrow-kit/
People really like Gorg arrows. They are a fully built modular arrowhead though, so I don't think that's what you were asking for. https://www.gorgtech.com/category/foam-archery/
Some people like PennQ foam tennis balls (cut in half) for their arrow heads. However they can have a lot of bounce-back (as you might expect from a quasi-tennis ball) so their safety can be arguable. (They also hit a little meaner than the above, so often don't pass at head legal games. Fine for hit at most larps though.) Here is an example link: www.amazon.com/Penn-Foam-Tennis-Balls-Red-Yellow/dp/B07BVXYTGL
Assuming it's the one I'm thinking of, I would agree with the other comments and advise against using it for larp. If he wants it as a fun little collector's item to have around the house, and maybe do some light sparring with friends at home? Sure, go for it. But for actual larp combat, I would strongly recommend against it. I have had personal experience with this weapon and I can't think of any larp where it would be approved for combat--it even recommends in the Q&A on that page to not use much force, and says it will break before it bends.
Setting aside safety issues, more games have recently put into place rules about borrowing obvious pop culture elements for their games, so even if he doesn't care about other players' immersion, it might be refused on those grounds alone.
There are some books that tackle similar topics.
Dream Park by Larry Niven and Steven Barnes. Larp is not specifically named, but the book is based on IFGS (International Fantasy Gaming Society).
There will be Dragons by John Ringo. Post Utopian SCA players save the world after an apocalypse. CW: Rape scene as motivation for primary (male) character. And there is lots more stuff that hasn't aged.
You will need something to give rigidity, maybe corregated cardboard (like from a box) laminated between rollmatt (yoga mat) type foam, them a pool noodle bent round the outside. Cover in ducktape then plasti spray
I bought these on Amazon and have been very happy with them because they are very comfortable and you can actually run around in them, and they feel very well made and high quality. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX6B3SA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That said, they can pass at LARP, but not upon a super close inspection. They definitely aren't 100% genre.
I don’t plan on taking it off, so I figured under is the way to go lol.
It’s a pendant from this necklace on Amazon. I just replaced the snaggy chain with some hemp cord.
I'd add a few steps before the treatment u/Foxhound631 described.
First step would be to give the edges of the plates a rusty color. The easiest way is to use first brown, then brick-red and finally ocre acrylic paints. Apply it non covering with a sponge to prevent brush strikes.
Then apply a masking agent (example) in irregular pattern to the edges (masking tape works to, but in generally its a much more regular pattern then). Do this with small spots at the amours surface too.
Then proceed as u/Foxhound631 described. Khaki is a nice color too ;) At last, peel away the masking agent.
Here's my Version ;)
It's this one : https://www.amazon.ca/Szco-Supplies-Rustic-Broad-Sword/dp/B00B2GCIZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1 The grip is a metal "plate" with two wooden semi-circles on either side, fixed with two metal pegs that go through the metal. I'm not sure if the plate is welded to the rest of the sword or if it's all the same piece. To be fair I'm not necessarily looking for battle-ready quality...
>What do you use for "Grenades" 'actual fireworks (that make a sound)' or just like a prop/phis-rep and 'Call/Verbal'? and players are supposed to know? (seems like keeping track of a prop landing on the ground behind you would be hard, and thus just ignoring it)
We just throw a prop and call "GRENADE" (which is a mandatory call, because how else are you supposed to know right?) We've tried several things, and nothing really works well. There are "Nerf" grenades that are spring-loaded and meant to fling out tiny pellets, but they're pretty fragile (bought 4, broke 4 in a weekend). Airsoft grenades mix very poorly with windows and electronics (and eyes), so those are out too. Fireworks aren't actually allowed here outside of newyears, and we play inside too.
Right now, we use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EB500HM (only from the local toystore, more cheaply). They also break, but not nearly as fast. It's suboptimal, but they blink and make noise, which helps people know where they land. Beyond that, it's the honor system and a stern "2 meters is thiiiis far" talk when people take too much liberty with that.
> "more RP - less Combat game" systems tend to have NPC shifts as a mandatory thing
Most EU larps have a discount for NPCs, and if people want to do a round of NPC'ing, they can just knock on the door. Occasionally we'll have bored players, or one who absolutely wants to spend 3 hours crafting something now, etc etc.
I personally think NPC shifts being mandatory sucks, because you're being force to miss plot.
depending on how combat intense/sweaty you are going to be is what I would probably build around. I really hate bodypaint so for me it would be all about minimizing having it.
I would probably get arm/leg covers like this and either paint or attach wires/lights/whatever.
If you are going full robot something like a airsoft mask with some googles would probably be a good base to start, you could even stick a voice changer or a led light that lights up when you talk.
Pick up a piece of corrugated plastic, like what gets used for election yard signs. Glue it to the back, and add another layer of foam.
Example: https://smile.amazon.com/Corrugated-Plastic-White-Sign-Blanks/dp/B06VWQ2GYL
The paint will wear quite quickly if unprotected. I'm currently investigating flexible sealants, otherwise I will use a spray-on polyurethane.
I've seen this recommended in a special fx sub-Reddit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYWYNE/
Actually I ended up getting this coat! :) I'm going to litter it with d&d accessories... Let me know if you have ideas on that! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075HD7Q15/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you want a handle and strap DIY use the strapping tutorial I posted and then use a trowel handle zip tied and glued down. Use Dap 00272 Weldwood The Original Contact Cement 1-Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00106ETT6/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_t1oXzb9B8PJX2 or better yet Quabaug Corp. Barge Cement Quart - Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015TDJKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q3oXzb5ZCPV9G
Brother Cadfael books. Also DVD. For inspiration.
That's a shame, I did some searching on the American Amazon and found These doubloons They might work?
I just started using This stuff for a local game here in Atlanta, and it worked pretty well.
Finding the appropriate splitter on Amazon is tricky. Here are some links we've taken from our in-app FAQ.
Here is one which seems be splitting the microphone and headphone parts into two separate female jacks:
This is another similar splitter:
BEBONCOOL(TM) 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter M/F
Camo paint sticks would be easy to use and sotore. You could wrap the containter with fabric, string, or just paint it to make it look less modern.
OR you could get a pot of facepaint and scrape it out of the pot and into whatever IC friendly containter you want (or again just paint the container so it looks less modern. Most facepaint require water to activate them but that shouldn't be an issue since you should have access to water. And you can easily apply with fingers. When I was a facepainter I liked Fab and Paradise products.
Look into the draw length and bow strength most larp bows I've seen have a max of 20 pounds.
For bulk vials, I just bought these off of Amazon along with a rifle ammo belt Bandolier. The color coded vials all fit and give me a large amount of cheap sturdy vials. If you go on etsy or other internet sales places you can find 1 or 2 bigger vials for important or rare stuff. Hope this helps! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSWFMOC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_djWcxbT0SWE75 Ammo belt Bandolier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000C53GI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdo_JlWcxbY31455K
I have used a lot of different solutions for batteries. A 9v is really stable, but isn't as bright as 12 volts, and is shaped somewhat awkwardly. Getting 12 volts is harder. I used a system that incorporated 9 AAAs in 3 battery holders and a screw-off pommel for a while, but they aren't durable enough. Now i use a 3d printed holder that holds 4 cr123a batteries inside the grip.
A half circle cloak is fairly easy to make yourself. I've followed this guide a few times and found it fairly easy to do, though it wastes a fair bit of fabric.
The easy way to do it is to make a sagum, a type of Roman cloak that is just a rectangle. u/notduddeman suggested buying an army surplus blanket and that's probably a good way to go. If you are going to go for the rectangular style, I recommend buying either a penannular brooch such as this one on Amazon.
It's a spray paint with a specific texture that forms as it dries. You can find all kinds of colors right here.
It provides a texture like this when it dries.
I've used this stuff for my latest sword and I highly recommend it.
Hair spray is good, this stuff is better I'm told.
Also, Snaz is dreadful in my experience, you could try looking for grease-paint based make-up rather than water-based. I always found that worked better.
(this is all in the past tense because my skin really doesn't like make up at all - I now either use full-face masks or play humans, unless it's a brief NPC role (I usually crew nowadays) and it's not hot enough to make me sweat much)
There are bluetooth rock speakers for outdoor patios and back yards. That speaker thing would be exceptionally easy to do.
Also, costly but possible.
Save yourself the heartache of crafting. The pricing on these is very good, and the shipping is very quick (super quick in the Amazon case).
If your larp is light-touch, get Palnatoke off Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/PALNATOKE-LP0010-Palnatoke-Woodland-33-Inch/dp/B00IKHVK68/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1421759886&sr=1-16
If you are a battle-larp, go Warlord Sports. http://www.warlordsports.com/
I have purchased both, and been very pleased with both.
In this case there is a difference between driveway markers and Yard/Fence Posts. Driveway markers are generally colored in some way and flex too much.
I use these cores for full contact games and they are good for Broadsword lengths up to 30"
Here is the exact brand, though this listing is for a pack of 25: http://www.amazon.com/Industries-8X48-Fence-Post-Fg-48/dp/B0039W9T6M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=03K2W68P5VHSRPTFGS3M
looking at the images from the film, it appears they purchased a set of old style frames and drilled two holes for mounting these with different colored inserts http://www.amazon.com/SE-Loupe-Double-Lens-MI128-55/dp/B000YMZJX2
assuming you want as close of a replica as possible, it looks as if you can unscrew the bolt from the lens frame, pop out the lens and swap it for colored plastic cut to the same diameter in order to mimic the look, or you can just leave the lens in there, they do work well as magnifiers. You can also go for a different look and get the three lens version, or different finishes here : http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=loopy+lens&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aloopy+lens
as for mounting it, you're either going to want to clip it onto your glasses with the clips provided, or find a cheap pair of glasses with flat bits where the arm attaches to the frames and drill two holes for the center pin on the loops, pass it through and tighten it up to get a close replica.
Hope that helped
It seems to have been reprinted, at least in the US-- here's a link.
Also, LARP shop? I'm jealous-- we don't have those here.
I use these. http://www.amazon.com/Beast-Satyr-Leggings-Costume-Accessory/dp/B001CJT60I
They're not digitigrade, but they give enough of a "goat" impression that I'm satisfied with them. Maybe one day I'll modify them to give more of a digitigrade look, but they work well enough that people see the horns and furry legs and people know that I'm a satyr.
As for hooves, I've never seen a design that works for a game with heavy combat like mine, so I just wear my regular boots.
I know! Ammo is important! haha would the bow I link below be ok?
This is a pipe method that's worked well for me.
Ingredients:
- Pipe (I've never needed anything beefier than 1/2" PVC, but use whatever you like)
- Wadding (newspaper is good)
- Two part epoxy putty, like J-B Waterweld
- Lead shot, the smaller the better. Birdshot, e.g.
- Pipe end cap
Cram the piece of wadding into the pipe to the desired depth, probably just the length of the hilt. Mash it in tight enough that it doesn't move too easily. Mix your epoxy putty together, and before it dries, break it into a number of smaller wads that will drop easily to the depth of your temporary plug. Use a dowel or similar flat-ended stick to gently mash the wads into a solid plug, being careful not to push your temporary plug further down into the pipe. Once the epoxy dries, it's basically indestructible and will survive anything that won't also destroy the pipe it's inside of. Fill the space between the epoxy plug and the very top of the pipe with the lead shot. If you like, you can add another piece of wadding between the lead shot and the end of the pipe before you put the cap on, to keep the hilt from rattling like a maraca. Put the cap on and secure it in place: strength is key here, so using PVC weld isn't a bad idea.
This gives a very nice balance to a sword. The most interesting thing for me about a weighted hilt is how, even though the total sword is heavier, it feels lighter in your hand, because the center of gravity is closer to your wrist.
We generally end up getting stuff like this when we ask.
My friends and I have never had problems finding materials.
A live action version of the game Aux B, which is mainly figuring out how to get components to form circuits using arbitrary inputs: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.schnellmann.aux&hl=en
You can mitigate the effects of the latency on android (by wearing earplugs so you don't hear your own external speaker, or just speaking in short phrases so you don't get confused by your own delayed voice).
There is another app on Android called Speech Jammer to experiment with just how audio latency can confuse the speaker. Latency is low on iOS - but the same developer has the app on App Store as well