Hello I would recommend updating your wireless drivers and chipset drivers. Additionally, you'll probably want to update the graphics drivers through the geforce.com website. You can use ninite for useful programs and such but programs are generally pretty subjective. Driver updates are a must tho.
You lost it while unboxing? It´s on the motherboard when you buy it. Did you remove them? Or did you try to install a monoblock or a waterblock and lose them.
I had this same problem with my 3700x and a brand new Carbon motherboard. I flashed it a dozen times via USB, and each time I watched the red LED flash for a couple minutes and it seemed like it flashed correctly, but it would never boot. What fixed it? Reformatting my USB drive with a proper utility, such as this: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/eula_windows/index.html. I know it says SD card but it does USB drives too.
I have a Z390M Gaming Edge AC board with two M.2 drives. Both of those drives were running hot (especially the OS drive) -- typically about 55 - 60C at idle, spiking to 70C under heavy load.
I ended up buying these simple heatsinks because they were low profile and matched the color scheme of my case layout, and they brought the heat down considerably. I now sit at around 45 - 50C idle and spike to just about 61C under load for my primary OS drive.
I have good overall cooling in my machine but am using a relatively small case that precludes truly great airflow. I think the sinks cost me 10 bucks each. Well worth the money, IMO.
Are you using VPN? Ever since I started to use F-Secure Freedome I noticed that connecting takes over a minute. Before Internet connection was almost instantaneous.
Someone might be able to help if you mentioned how you connect. You know, WiFi, cable, mobile hotspot etc.
Tried looking for folders called MSI in Program Files (x86) and Program Data (a hidden folder) and delete them manually in Windows Explorer?
Pretty sure standard uninstall leaves crap behind. Then rerun the installer in admin mode, something is definitely blocking connection to a host.
As for all those QoL things, Dragon centre is not great, I only have it for Mystic Light.
User scenario is just windows power management profiles and I control those from the taskbar with a freeware program.
Monitoring again controlled better with freeware (rainmeter and hwinfo)
Fan control again freeware app called fan control partnered with libre hardware monitor that gives control instead of just click for best config:
GitHub - Rem0o/FanControl.Releases: This is the release repository for Fan Control, a highly customizable fan controlling software for Windows.
Gaming Mode sucks, can't even scan your PC or common folders.
I'm new to MSI and although according to reviews their motherboards are pretty much best in class, they suck bad at other stuff. Jeez even my BIOS has a spelling mistake.
Afterburner and Dragon Centre are chalk and cheese, I think most stuff that uses Universal Windows Platform is utter garbage not just Dragon Centre
I have 3 fan zones in my case (plus cpu). Front (3 fans), rear (1 fan), and top (2 fans). I have each zone connected to a single fan header. For the front and top zones the fans are connected with a 4 pin splitter.
I would stay away from dragon center at all costs.
You will need to go into your bios make sure the connected fan headers are set to pwm - on my x570 tomahawk all but cpu defaults to dc.
Once you do this, you can set the fan profiles in the bios. But, better yet, download the free fan control software and set up your fan profiles there.
You will likely need to flash your bios for 5xxxX support. Easy to do with the flashback method. Just make sure you are using a usb 2.0 key. Fat32 with mbr partition.
ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO - Tower CPU Cooler with BioniX P-Series Case Fan in Push-Pull, 120 mm PWM Fan, for Intel and AMD Socket - Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MBCEQA1BFD2CE49113VY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
and seems to work fine even bought better paste then they gave me.
I just ordered a pack that had a variety in them;
Some aftermarket cable 8pin cable amazon 8pin pcie or new PSU idk
BASICALLY I got one of these from a hardware shop lol https://www.amazon.com/Sutemribor-Nylon-Washer-Assortment-Sizes/dp/B07KQTTXSY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=rubber+washers&qid=1605597792&sr=8-3
I don't have a specific recommendatiojn but the best monitors for gaming are 1440p 144hz 1ms with freesync
I just got this one and it's amazing, but it looks like Amazon is out of stock of new ones.
ASUS MG278Q 27" WQHD 1440P 144Hz 1ms Eye Care G-Sync Compatible Adaptive Sync Gaming Monitor with Dual HDMI DP DVI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014X4U076/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NQglDbX8RHDVA
KOOLWOOM Wood Monitor Stand Riser Perfect for Computer,iMac,Printer,Notebook,Xbox One,PS4,Nintendo Switch (21.5x9.25x4 inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBSXFJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.jKKFbBMVDXYD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I highly doubt they put the PCIE slot on the opposite side of the board. If that were true, that would be literally the first ever laptop to do such a thing. One of my P/T jobs is PC/Laptop repair, and out of all the laptops I've ever worked on, I've never seen them place one PCIE slot outward and one inward.
It looks like that motherboard was made with expandable functionality and MSI decided not to utilize it in order to reduce costs.
Sometimes multiple companies will release laptops using the same board and will contact the manufacturer with the specifications they need and that board just so happened to include "the option" to expand / add another PCIE slot.
But all documentation is showing that your laptop only supports one NVMe and no SATA. There's numerous laptops in that family and they all contain the same storage options.
Unfortunately, your only option is to upgrade the one currently on the board.
I mean you do have the option to upgrade the main one to use for your OS, and if you want another, you could go the route of buying an external enclosure for an NVMe device if you've got USB 3.1 / 3.2 on that laptop. Such a device like: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-Arion-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B07ZKB4SLK/ref=pd_ybh_a_148?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XW1XHX2P8SJHKNFTWQ73
I’m gonna go out in a limb and guess your CPU doesn’t have an onboard GPU. So the hdmi port on your motherboard actually goes to nothing. You’re not totally SOL, though. Check into something like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Compatible-Computers/dp/B005H3I38Q
not sure why the unanimous agreement is yes, you'll see 1-3° degree drop on your gaming temp with a cooling pad. The ones over $100 might add a degree. The cooling system on any reasonably modern gaming laptops are significantly more powerful than a cooling pad, and 75% of that has to do with the laptop not being on a flush surface. With the cooling pad off or even propping the back edge of the laptop on a book is almost as effective.
*Non-gaming laptops with a single internal fan one or two heat pipes will see a bigger drop in temps.
But, that's not your question. If you want a cooling pad. almost any will do. Something with a single 140mm fan or larger, or two 120mm fans will do. If its just sitting in on spot get anything, if your moving it around with you go for one of the slimmer ones. Cooler Master slim if you want something cheap that will last a long time (<$20)
Amazon has a lot of options, but if you look closely its the same 6 or 7 sold under different brand names. They all perform about the same, almost all push 65-75 cfm air, regardless of it having 6 fans or 2. I think your better off buying on of the cheaper smaller ones, more small fans = more noise, more power usage, same airflow. Even if noise and power arent an issue, the bigger ones will work the same on a 17" laptop, on a 15.6" a lot of that air flow is wasted. This will cool your specific laptop better than this, even though it has the same airflow and 3 times as many fans.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0896G6HSC?tag=pcp0f-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 up on amazon now if anyone is interested
Because the 3060 is a large card, it's creating RFI interference with the Audigy since it's now closer to it, and the only solutions are (1) moving the Audigy to a slot further away from the GPU, (2) installing ferite chokes on your speaker wires, headphones, and HDMI cables. These should also eliminate negative feedback loops -- i.e. low hum from amplified speakers whenever the system is turned off. Also, make sure your BIOS has an option called "Spread Spectrum" - MSI Click 5 Bios usually had it on Auto by default, but switch it to enabled.
Thank you for your nice comments and glad to know that the second screw set arrived safely :)
Popular to contrary belief, we do care about our users! At MSI UK, we carry a lot of parts and probably ship over 20 parcels each week. These could be screws, USB sticks prepared for BIOS flashbacks, backplates, dongles, power leads, missing accessories and so on.
In fact, we have a small inventory of dead components just for scrapping for usable parts. We do our best to help everyone to provide quick & convenient solutions. We even shipped some simple parts like dongles to MSI users from different countries in the past. MSI UK team puts a lot of effort into after-sales support.
We'd be truly grateful if you could rate your experience with our team on Trustpilot :)
Thank you! :)
There's not really any need to, but you can always try looking over Amazon and other stores for M.2 heatsinks that match the aesthetic. They're usually fairly cheap.
For example this one might fit the look with the angled lines, or you could just look for a plain black one instead.
EDIT: Ended up grabbing a NZXT USB Hub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L8VJS3Z) and moving the Corsair Commander Core XT and my Corsair H115i AIO to it. So far no more USB connects/disconnects :knockonwood:
>Raider GE76 12UE
Further to this, if you take your ram out and look at it, you want to look to find out if its high density (ram modules just on the front), or low density memory (is there ram modules on the front and back) Low density is actually better... If yours is only half populated, then changing to low density would give you 5%-20% extra FPS across different games. See LTT explanation for some info.
Also if you're upgrading, you'll want to stick to DDR5-4800 as there really isn't much info on these laptop models yet and it probably won't run faster than 4800. You could always firect message MSI and ask em what it'll take?
Whilst you will almost certainly need to stick to 4800, you could go for something with faster timings (although bear in mind that I have seen reports of some laptops not running those faster timings, not because they couldn't physically, but because the option is disabled in BIOS and you might have to go through a right pain in the backside of editing the BIOS directly with an SPI programmer to enable faster timings)... Because of this potential caveat, I wouldn't spend a fortune for faster timings.
With all this in mind, GSkill Ripjaws are products which have a reasonably priced upgrade path for you: A kit like the following is confirmed low density, faster timings than yours and double the total capacity of yours for a very reasonable price.
Series: RipJaws DDR5 SO-DIMM,
32GB kit containing 2 x 16GB modules,
CAS Latency CL34 (34-34-34-76) at 1.10V (Intel XMP)
Wouldn't be the hard drive. If it was, you'd still be able to see a BIOS, but wouldn't get much farther than that if it completely failed. You'd probably see something like "unable to find boot device" error black screen.
It was "failing", you'd probably be stuck in a Windows Automatic Repair bootloop, and if system file checker managed to fix the issue, it would be hella slow as the platter heads are moving around more to avoid the bad sectors.
> Its a sort of surge protection, so the voltage caps at 5V. But This shouldnt be the problem as i have been using This pc fine for 5 years. Maybe the harddrive just gave up or something
That doesn't sound right.
12V is required for:
5V rails operate:
3.3V rails operate:
Even AC/DC power adapters for laptops that have much lower power consumption than a Trident 3 operate around 15-19V. The power adapter for my HP Envy using a Ryzen 2500U uses a 19.5V 60W power adapter.
For example, the replacement power supply brick by Delta for your Trident 3 runs at 19.5V. At " a 5V cap", nothing would come on at all.
In my opinion, you should use f.lux. It is better than EyeRest and offers more options for color control. (Also, given the community's feelings on Dragon Center, it would seem like you are better off without DC.)
I got it for a very good price, I'd say. If anyone's interested, here's a link to it https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-RTX-3080-Trio/dp/B095VZ6F73/
It looks like the Astros A50 is a wireless headset. I doubt it even uses any of the sound hardware in your PC, whether it be onboard or on a sound card. So I would say you would not need to buy a sound card to use that headset.
>USB sound card functionality: When using PC, USB sound card functionality provides game: Voice balance, game and voice streaming;
It sounds like the base plugs into your computer via USB. In my experience, USB sound devices have their own sound hardware, so they wouldn't use any of the sound hardware in the PC.
works for my 34 inch curved MSI just fine
You can buy an NVME SSD adapter and install M.2 SSD inside to make external storage to use. Still can use it. I used to install some games and workable. But the speed could be limited by the desktop. It seems like no Thunderbolt port or USB 3.1 Gen 2.
Cooling pads work. I've had situations where I had to work somewhere without any climate controls and cooling pads do help. My go-to is this model. But there's a lot more modern ones on the market.
There is a USB cable contained in the accessory box. A cable head is USB-B and USB-A. The USB-B port is in the rear or under the monitor. USB-A is connected to a desktop or laptop. If you don't have it, maybe ask MSI to provide it to you. The regular USB cable should be fine. It just delivers the signal between monitor and desktop. You can check the monitor USB-B port first to confirm it.
Thanks for your response, but after starting the assembly of my new stands and one of the flat monitors that I had, I noticed that the stands have spacers and longer screws for curved monitors. No extra pieces/tools needed :)
For anyone else stumbling across this post, here are the monitors and stand I used:
Hey, I have the same monitor and just bought a 100x100 monitor arm but realized I don't have the vesa adapter plate anymore. Did you need that or were the spacers/screws that you linked enough to screw in the mounting arm to the monitor?
That's the stand I got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084JD96TB?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Just buy one of these Amazon. It provides you power, reset, and a couple of LED's just like your standard PC case.
So it dosnt matter at all which brand and type of cables it is if it is an extension and same pin? And can you use extension cables for aesthetics or is it better with normal custom cables? Can i use this and it will work and not damage my pc or psu? https://www.amazon.com/Clovertale-Sleeved-Cable-connectors-White/dp/B078WQWVJZ
FYI for anyone still checking this thread. I managed to find an old 3 pin mini fan. (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wathai-5000RPM-Brushless-Cooling-Airflow/dp/B081JH39B8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=80mm+cpu+fan+4+pin&qid=1656637041&sr=8-3) and did a temporary retrofit to attach it to my computer case to bring in outside air and I'm now now looking at a PCH temperature of 66C max(!!!) (down from 83), W2_2 is idling at 67/68C and W1_1 is at 38C. Unless you have some type of airflow along that heatsink, I'm not sure there are many other options. I've added thicker thermal paste, cleaned and re-applied thermal compound to the PCH chip, nothing worked.
ID-COOLING SE-214-XT ARGB CPU... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FDWPCWZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You can 100% so it! I’d you want you can also DM me or even video chat if you have questions and if I have time. I’m on vacation this week from work so feel free to reach out if you have questions
I’d bet money this will fit. I’ve used 5 of them on multiple builds I’ve done with some small ass cases. Fit every time. Excellent performance for $20. Even cooled a 5800X. I also always use Noctua NT-H2 thermal paste
ID-COOLING SE-214-XT ARGB CPU... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FDWPCWZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
At least according to Amazon CA the CPU is the same.
Specifically these: CableMod C-Series Pro ModFlex Sleeved 8-pin PCI-e Cable for Corsair RM Black Label/RMi/RMX (Black, 60cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GJNPCB3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3QTDTMNEK0ESXFTAB1V5
The review pictures show some kind of cable split and a lot of the reviews have somewhat negative things to say. I understand people on the Internet aren't always the kindest but when gambling on what may or may not fry the $900 GPU I just bought it can make me feel uncomfortable.
School is much more important so no need to apologize. Since I last posted I have researched a bit and I think there are two problems. When you listen to audio from your computer a DAC (digital audio converter) is needed to convert the digital signal to an analog signal. Our MOBO (and all MOBOS with built-in sound) have a DAC to handle this. There is also a driver or codec involved which handles the encoding and compression/decompression. The codec version in use on our board is a bit older and not the best according to what I read online. To bypass this I purchased an external DAC/AMP which connects over USB for my headset (has a mic). My speakers are still attached to the onboard DAC but they have a built-in AMP and they sound really good. My headphones now sound much better but still not great when I listen to a stream through a browser. I think this means the problem is partially the onboard DAC and partially how Windows (the browser) handles sound. I think I may have been better off getting a DAC/AMP with an EQ and maybe that would have completely resolved my issue. If you can afford it you may want to think about getting one. This guy has some excellent videos on DACs for PCs...
For your Discord issue, do you have your input/output devices configured to use default or something else?
MSI Stealth 15M A11UEK-009 Gaming Laptop, Intel Core i7-11375H CPU, Dedicated Graphics, Wifi 6 Enabled https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091GGZT1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FCHN3THRG5ECFV58V85C
This is the laptop I have if that helps at all :/
I just bought a male/male Display Port to DVI-D cable last week. It cost $12 from Amazon.
One thing to watch out for is that the DVI-D connector side is 'longer' than the normal DVI-D connector, so it's possible for it to be blocked by a mount. Like my monitor is. I had to partially remove the mount for the cable to fit. Other than that, it works just fine.
This is the one I purchased. Again, the DVI-D side is a bit longer than most, so if that's a problem you may want to find a different one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV7FCRJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
So the dock comes with 4 ports one Dp and HDMI dedicated to one monitor and one Dp and HDMI dedicated to another monitor. Do you think I could get 165 Hz if I installed both a HDMI and DP cable into the dock.
You could always get something like this.
Rear USB re-initiated. You shouldn't have to get something like this, but you CAN.
Anyway. B350 owner and still waiting for the AGESA, so at least you've gotten the upgrade. At this point I'm thinking we're next but who knows. No guarantees when it comes to this stuff.
That is a 4 pin 12v RGB strip. The connection gives it both power and sets the colour of the LEDs. You'd need an adapter to be able to connect it to your PSU and I have no idea what colour, if any, it would be with only power connected.
The 12v RGB stuff is a bit less common these days as the 5v ARGB stuff is fancier with more effects. Found the controller below on Amazon, no idea if it's any good but it's the sort of thing that would let you run those strips without a motherboard connection and give some degree of control over it.
MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge WiFi Motherboard (AMD AM4, DDR4, PCIe 4.0, SATA 6Gb/s, M.2, USB 3.2 Gen 2, AC Wi-Fi 5, HDMI, ATX) (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081ZKSSH8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TWCD1J8EHZBZ03Q4BS13
It's this keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALLT2W4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I looked through the comments/questions/reviews and couldn't find anything about it.
the best way? an A/V Receiver.
That's a bit of massive overkill though.
Something like that would probably work
I am using the same ram with my i7 12th gen with no problems at all. XMP selected and windows showing 3600MHz. Latest stable bios and exact same mobo.
This is a customized system, therefore many components are special designs. like motherboard and power supply. If you really want to upgrade the system. RAM and Storage is the first choice to upgrade. if you really want to upgrade the whole machine, you need to find the mini-ITX type motherboard. And find the flat PSU for a power watt upgrade. And VGA card probably needs to use a riser cable for VGA card.
I bought this one first: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MW73HTJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And now I'm using the same one as you mate! Amazing riser, works flawlessly! Vertically mounted GPUS are the future.
For the love of God NEVER use a screw driver. I did that with an Intel based motherboard years ago and scratched the traces near the CPU and ended up with a dead motherboard as I didnt have the equipment/patience/eyesight to repair it.
Get this and use the long plastic one.. I have one just for getting out video cards. Learned my lesson..
Only MSI could sell it because this is customized board. But it seems vertical VGA is become popular, you can purchase this kind soft riser cable to instead. However, it will not fit in that case...
I'm sorry about the late reply, but I just replaced the CPU cooler with the Noctua NH-D15 and that seemed to have fixed my issue, but I went the extra mile and replaced the case entirely with Corsair's 7000D Airflow Case.
UGREEN CAT 8 Ethernet Cable High Speed 40Gbps 2000MHz Ethernet Cable Braided RJ45 LAN Gigabit Network F/FTP POE Compatible with Xbox One Switch PS5 PS4 WiFi Extender Router Modem Patch Panel (1M) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0875NB89J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_658CXPFDHE28EC8VGXCB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It has the plug, but it doesn't fit in the mobo Could you tell me what am doing wrong?
Would this type of adapter work? Amazon Link
dont think so, jrgb works with 12 v and argb with 5, also argb has a clk signal which can control individual leds which jrgb doesnt, but you can buy a argb controller like this one https://www.amazon.de/Razer-Chroma-Addressable-Controller-Universal-Kompatibilit%C3%A4t/dp/B08LGQRLXV/ref=sr\_1\_19?\_\_mk\_de\_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=3ME54D5W1ZZG8&keywords=argb+controller&qid=1647457049&sprefix=a...
These cable extensions will really clean up the look of your build. Looks good as is, but they will give it a nice custom look.
Thanks. My motherboard does not have spare USB 2 header. The one header that I have runs to the front of the case IO. Can I use something like this to https://www.amazon.com/Header-Extension-Splitter-Connector-Adapter/dp/B076QBK79M ? Wonder if controller signal would still get thru with a splitter like that.
You can take look this. You are going to use VESA mount ?
Long story short, no.
Basically, I fixed the problem with my crashes, I had to set both the lanes to GEN.3 and also use XMP 2. This seemed to fix my crashes for the most part but I just didn't want to deal with any future problems.
So I went out and bought a different motherboard which was the "ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A Gaming WiFi D4" and also at the same time I went and a bought a better, higher quality GEN 4 PCI-e riser which was this one here:
And after this? Never had a problem again, everything worked perfectly. Can use GEN 4, never had a crash again, etc, etc.
yeah looks like that's the one i picked up. Fit just fine in the case and resolved all my issues that I was having. Now If only i could get my GPU to not ramp up like a helicopter every 20 seconds when playing a taxing game lol. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SYSLZDR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 FSP Dagger Pro 650W Mini ITX Solution/SFX 12V / Micro ATX 80 Plus Gold Certified Full Modular VR / 4K Ready Gaming Power Supply (SDA2-650)
^^ Would this be compatible? and yea I've heard this particular laptop is tough to upgrade, I was thinking of taking it to a local shop to help me upgrade it but, it would probably cost a lot.
This monitor support VESA 75 x 75 mm. So you need to find the wall mount or arm support this format should be fine. Because this monitor screw hole is lower. You also need to purchase 4x additional standoff to support the mount.
had the same issue but with the left most fan
inRobert Ball Bearing DIY Fan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09836NQ4C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
installed these and fixed the issue, temps and noise level under load are the same as the stock fans but not too sure about longevity i guess we'll see after extended use.
for installation all you need to do is unscrew the screws on the front of the card and the shroud + fans will become loose and accessible. look up a gaming x trio deshroud mod on google there should be videos of people doing it
I swapped them out with Thermalright 1.5mm and they work much better. Makes full contact. Thermalright Thermal Pad 12.8 W/mK, 85x45x1.5mm, Non Conductive Heat Resistance, Extreme Odyssey Silicone Thermal Pads for PC Laptop Heatsink/GPU/CPU/LED Cooler (1.5mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CGVZ4YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EZT0KPPG5NJ6SBNHBV0P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
maybe forget the TPM thing for your case.
Are there any other red faults which correspond with your problems in the eventviewer?
Realtek is a nightmare to check drivers separate i often go with a third party tool for it.
You could try to check if there is also a new driver available via Snappy Driver Installer. Its a third party tool which lists you a lot of drivers for your devices. But dont just install everything only take one driver after another and do a backup of your system before using it.
Use this: https://ninite.com/ to get the basic programs on a flash drive - way simpler than trying to do them one by one. Once you've reinstalled windows just try using it for a few days with the bare minimum programs possible - i.e. the main games you play regularly and web browser. If it is a software issue you'll never find it if you basically stick everything back together exactly as it was. What size SSD are you running and what PSU?
nop, I saw the specifications you need an adapter, https://www.msi.com/Monitor/Optix-G24C/Specification might be this adapter https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Placa-adaptador-montaje-AG242M5-Negro/dp/B07NQGF371/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=3562I4KDW91L2&keywords=msi+vesa&qid=1643815729&sprefix=msi+vesa%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-2
Another note would be to ensure you use the spacer so that it does not touch your motherboard.
Looks like these: https://www.amazon.com/Michaelia-Standoff-Drives-motherboard-screwdriver/dp/B07D6G9XXL
Hope you didn't spend too much. Something like the Arctic LF2 240mm is often found under $100 here it is foe $87 and setup is incredibly easy since the pump doesn't use a tachometer and all the fans are daisy chained. Literally one pwm plug to set it up. Another perk to this thing is the rad is super thick.
Soo you are getting bios splash on the HDMI right ? But on VGA you dont ? You need an active hdmi or any other digital port you gonna use to vga.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Weduda-Converter-Gold-Plated-Computer-Projector/dp/B071XLWDBFYou need this
Do you think these cables cables should be alright?
It should be this kind type.
Both seem nice and all, but have you considered this GL66? same proc as the Katana, but a 3070, then spend $200 on newegg to buy a 64gb kit, and you're golden.
I just got my fan(CPU).
I had to buy a few more things too. It needs to be repasted bc you have to remove the heatsink.
The vents were completely clogged by dust, lint, fur. I'm still waiting for the K5 Pro to get here before repasting it tomorrow.
Oh boy, it has been a hot minute since I created this post. But I think I eventually had to force shut down the computer. After it restarted though, I had to endure the next 6-10 months of having to restart my computer until I got a stable boot. When I say stable, I mean whenever I would turn on my computer after the BIOS update, it would utilize my C drive at 100% with no end, and barely be able to supply enough power to the rest of my systems resulting in decreased performance, and causing most of my USB's to flicker on and off. On a good day I'd only have to restart 3 times. However, on a bad day, I would have to restart almost 15 times.
Now, I'm not saying your issue will result in the same, but if you have the same Motherboard as me, I highly recommend scrapping it. I eventually had to throw it out and replace it with this board:
After that, my computer has been running beautifully.
Here is a link to the exact computer. msi trident x
This is the cooler I replaced mine with a month or two ago:
Scythe Fuma 2 CPU Air Cooler, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen, 120mm Dual Towers, Black Top Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QMK5R45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CTN9BK92R2X0B5B9KKT5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pretty quiet works well.
Yeah I did.
So the m.2 cover that came with the MB can only fit in the top slot (M2_1) so I bought this aluminum heatsink for the bottom slot (M2_2). It fit with no conflict with a beefy GPU installed. And temps are arguably better then the one that came with the MB. Not sure if it's because better cooler for a gen3 drive (M2_2) or simply gen4 drives (M2_1) run hotter.
Yeah I uninstalled it first. I did update my bios as well.
This is what I bought. Very cheap but had 1/100/1000 speed port so its all I needed. Work flawlessly this past year. https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-1000Mbps-Ethernet-supported-RC-411v3/dp/B004F34ONC
I haven't tried an adapter. I do have one for my switch but I dont remember what kind and it's probably not capable of Gig speed.
Actually I found it on my amazon account.
it does support that speed so I'm gonna have to try it.
Yes. It fits. But you have to move the cable stuff on the top and its very tight for the cpu power connector. and the lights are jrainbow connectors, and I dont find them on my mainboard.
I think this one should be fine.
PRD should be read when under load. For instance, on my setup, it reports something around 200-300% when idle, but stays under +- 5% when burning.
For detailed explanations, see here : https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/threads/explaining-the-amd-ryzen-power-reporting-deviation-metric-in-hwinfo.6456/
I'm currently using 220.127.116.11B, but you have to measure this Power Reporting Deviation under processor load like CB20 or P95:
"As stated before, this metric is only valid during a relatively stable near-full-load condition."
Idle will give you anything from 0-255.
The only thing that is not true is your own statement about known and unfixed vulnerabilities in MSI Afterburner. As a developer of MSI Afterburner I'd like to see proofs of this false statement. I'd love to know which vulnurabilities I refuse to fix in details. Otherwise your statement is misinformative. Also, your statements about HwInfo are also not true too. If HwInfo STARTS, it doesn't mean that it WORKS as intended and as before. Vanguard is killing a part of its sensors as well: https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/threads/incompatibility-with-riot-vanguard-anti-cheat.6356/#post-24542 The same applies to AIDA64, which STARTS but immediately BSODs on quit due to Vanguard's invasive protection.
The + and - keys on the Numpad should let you go up and down in increments of 0.0125V. At least, they do on my board.
VID should be similar to whatever voltage you set in the BIOS. To know the actual voltage your CPU is getting under load, look at the SVI2 TFN value in HWiNFO. What's the Vcore you set in the BIOS?
Once you change the multiplier, Cool and Quiet needs to enabled again if you want the chip to downclock at idle. You also need to drop the minimum processor state in your Windows power plan to 5-10%.
8W? Or do you mean 80W?
As long as you're hitting the same clocks, there's no reason your benchmark scores will be affected by either voltage option.
Yes, seems like a nice OC.
Yeah, minimum specs are pretty recent... Compatible 64-bit processor (Intel 8th gen/AMD Ryzen 2000 or newer), 4GB RAM, 64GB storage, TPM 2.0 support, UEFI Secure Boot only (CSM/Legacy not supported), and GPU must be DirectX12 with WDDM 2.0 driver required. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-11-specifications
>MSIUK_Support3 months ago
>Hi everyone!If you are having difficulties getting your FLASH BIOS USB drive detected by motherboard, please try following steps.First of all, please download the Rufus tool. (https://rufus.ie/)Connect your USB flash drive to your motherboard’s FLASH BIOS port. Try avoiding high capacity USB drives (32GB+) or external hard drives. A Simple 1-16GB USB flash drive is fine.Start the Rufus tool and please make sure you select “Non bootable” setting under the Boot selection menu and “MBR” partition under the Partition Scheme menu for your FAT32 USB drive.When you format your USB drive this way, Rufus will create 2 files in your USB drive. You can delete those files and put your MSI.ROM file to the root directory. Afterwards, turn off your computer and press the FLASH BIOS button on the IO section of your motherboard. FLASH BIOS should detect the file in the drive and start flashing. When flashing starts, the notification LED will blink around 4-5mins until flashing is complete.Hope it helps!
ssaved my ass after 2 hours of pulling my hair, using multiple usb flash drives, that program worked. my usb kept lighting up and 5-10s later my mobo rgb popped on and i was happy ty
Just remembered I also used this method found from another thread to complete erase of usb stick before flashing:
If you are having difficulties getting your FLASH BIOS USB drive detected by motherboard, please try following steps.
First of all, please download the Rufus tool. (https://rufus.ie/)
Connect your USB flash drive to your motherboard’s FLASH BIOS port. Try avoiding high capacity USB drives (32GB+) or external hard drives. A Simple 1-16GB USB flash drive is fine.
Start the Rufus tool and please make sure you select “Non bootable” setting under the Boot selection menu and “MBR” partition under the Partition Scheme menu for your FAT32 USB drive.
When you format your USB drive this way, Rufus will create 2 files in your USB drive. You can delete those files and put your MSI.ROM file to the root directory. Afterwards, turn off your computer and press the FLASH BIOS button on the IO section of your motherboard. FLASH BIOS should detect the file in the drive and start flashing. When flashing starts, the notification LED will blink around 4-5mins until flashing is complete.
Hope it helps!