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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/PCHardware:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/PCHardware:
Open Hardware Monitor
freeCodeCamp
Rainmeter
HWiNFO (32/64)
GPU-Z
HWMonitor
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For the graphics card if I were to guess maybe a GTX 1650 or 1660, although it’s near impossible to tell because some manufacturers use the same cooling design amongst gpu generations.
For the ram stick it’s impossible to know for sure just by looking at it.
For the record, you can find the exact model and chipset of both if you put them in a pc and check task manager (under the performance tab). That’s the basics, but GPU-Z will give you an exact description on your graphics card. Sometimes third party sellers will try to bamboozle you by changing some code on the graphics card to make it appear like it’s a higher model in task manager, but GPU-Z reads directly from the chip so that will give you the most accurate/true information if that’s a worry.
I think they are used when hanging acoustic ceilings.
But you don't need anything so complicated to dry a mouse pad. Regular clothespins should work fine. You can get them with rubber tips if you're worried about marring the surface of something.
Ryzen 5 3600 is a stronger CPU in single core performance, it's almost a dead heat in multi-core performance (the R5 has 6 cores and the R7 has 8 cores, so the R7 catches up in multi-core).
If you have the budget, I'd say get the R5.
Unless you have a specific feature set you're looking for, motherboard barely matters. You can probably shave a few $$ off that if you need to save money, a quick look on Amazon shows a number of name brand boards under $100. Here's one from MSI.
I use 2x G-sync 1440 displays @ 120Hz with this switch and I have a third monitor that I just switch inputs on between DP and HDMI.
alright, so, i'll be using a gtx 1660 as an example because i may buy it instead of the 2060, it's sizes height and lenght are 12.1x 22.4cm, and the case has a 350mm Max VGA lenght (i'm not sure if it's the way to know if a gpu can fit, and the case only supports mini atx / micro atx motherboards), and i don't know how to make the math to know if it can fit in, here is the case link, and here is the gpu (it may be in br portuguese for you, but i think google will autotranslate)
Hey if you have the money for that stuff, why dont you buy a new PC? just wondering
I found this tho. Socket LGA 1151
While this is not really accurate this is a normal HDD while this one is more designed for a NAS. The price is pretty similar, but I was wondering how worth while would it be.
And if one doesn't have an HDMI cable, just get a Display Port to HDMI cable and be done with it. Rankie makes one.
You should be fine. UEFI actually replaces the BIOS and I can't remember the last system that didn't have it. So plug it together and give it a shot. Worst case scenario it doesn't work but it should. This article should help alleviate your concerns. https://www.freecodecamp.org/news/uefi-vs-bios/amp/
Anything from Logitech in a similar price class is probably fine. Microsoft also makes excellent mice for productivity. They still make the Intellimouse style.
This is what I'm using for the same scenario.
I used to rely on three 1920x1200 displays but now use two 2560x1440 displays.
Note the unit linked does work with G-sync at refresh rates up to 120Hz (I just haven't tried 144Hz). I purchased Club3D DP cables of the minimum required length to reach between the displays, switch, PC, and Notebook dock.
PCIe SSDs are rare, and overpriced.
The item you mention in your post is PNY XLR8 CS3030 2TB, which is an M.2 NVMe SSD.
Seems you have a few options.
- SATA SSD. Pretty much guaranteed to work and be bootable on an older motherboard.
- True PCIe SSD, like this. You might find one slightly cheaper, but not much. Will it boot on your old motherboard? Unknown.
- PCIe->NVMe adapter, and corresponding NVMe SSD. Will it boot? Again, unknown.
USB C to HDMI Cable for Home Office 6ft (4K@60Hz), uni USB Type C to HDMI Cable, Thunderbolt 3 Compatible with MacBook Pro 2021/2020, MacBook Air,iPad Pro 2021, Surface Book 2, Galaxy S20 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2SH5Q0JXSHFK8KVN32VG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Has been working great for me
There are these power A xbox controllers (link: https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Enhanced-Wired-Controller-Xbox-x/dp/B08F44DPJW/ref=zg_bs_6469279011_3/133-0834800-9709268?pd_rd_i=B08F44DPJW&psc=1) I freeking love mine, and they're not too expensive.
Yes, it exists. Plenty online if you google. Even on amazon.com
What you search for is ab
"PCI express sd card reader"
For instance:
https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-PEX-SD137-Express-Host-Adapter/dp/B07PNDZ4Y5
The Bios only shows the current temp and not a log unless theres a new fancy bios I haven't seen yet. You could try running a hardware monitor in the background to check the log if it crashes again.
Hey, that's the same motherboard and power supply I was using with my FX-8370E before I retired it earlier this year. I was using it with an EVGA GTX970 card that I bought 5 years ago, of course.
Step 1 would be to see if Windows itself is capturing any info. Go to Windows Administrative Tools -> Computer Management -> System Tools -> Event Viewer -> Windows Logs and open the System log, see if there are any warnings or unusual things happening right before the shutdowns happen.
Step 2 would be to log the state of the temperature sensors and other components to a file that you can review, a tool like Open Hardware Monitor has a "Log Sensors" option that will create a .CSV file in the same folder as the EXE. Fire it up and start gaming, then review the data around the time of shutdown and check for any high temp conditions. You can open a CSV file in Excel or LibreOffice, but it's also human readable if you like lots of commas.
Check for the obvious stuff like thermals (Open Hardware Monitor is good). Make sure card is seated correctly, all power connected, etc. Make sure display monitor is good (if the backlight is going out in your display you're gonna feel really dumb :-)
Beyond that, I'd do a full backup & Windows reset back to bare metal operating system, then install the latest graphics drivers and immediately test. If problem goes away, *carefully* re-install software.
Another obvious thing to check -- get some temp monitoring software (either native for your motherboard & card or Open Hardware Monitor), make sure that your CPU & GPU temps are staying below 100 deg C, preferably below 80 deg C.
That's not NVMe, it's M.2 mSATA.
OP needs a USB to M.2 mSATA converter, like this.
I used something similar to this for a while. It mostly worked, but running a display from it wasn't great, it would get quite hot, and -very rarely- it would cease to function entirely until given some time to cool off or something. I starting keeping a little fan running over it and that seemed to help quite a bit.
I hate to say it but, springing for the laptop manufacturer's dock is probably the best bet.
The situation I'm dealing with is similar. I have a work laptop and my own computer that share the same physical workspace. The "dock" (similar USB-C brick to what I linked you except it's Dell's stuff) has worked far better than the USB-C dongle-thing but, yes, it still seems to present its own problems on occasion.
Foremost among them is the occasional total loss of connectivity to the dock. Like, no monitors, no USB peripherals, no ethernet. Then, I have to unplug the dock's power, unplug the dock from the laptop, pop open the laptop's lid, shutdown the laptop, set the laptop back into its cradle powered down, plug back in the dock, then power everything back up. This happens maybe once a month. It's obviously all very annoying, but it happens a lot less often than the random weird shit the USB-C dongle thing would do.
What do you think about this set up?
Acasis usb 4.0 + firecuda 530?
People on boards say the Acasis enclosure isnt really USB 4 and is usb 3.1 gen 2
ACASIS NVMe Enclosure Type-C USB 4.0 External M.2 PCIe SSD Enclosure Reader SSD NVMe Dock Station Tool-Free Portable External Enclosure 40GBps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P7L6SDD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3FMFZYQGCBF1HRE6A9QT
Seagate FireCuda 530 1TB Solid State Drive - M.2 PCIe Gen4 ×4 NVMe 1.4, speeds up to 7300 MB/s, Compatible PS5 Internal SSD, 3D TLC NAND, 1275 TBW, 1.8M MTBF, 3yr Rescue Services (ZP1000GM30013) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q54CHS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W0H85CPYSZV2R10QWYXH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If they are header splitter cables to power the fans, this is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXNT6V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If they are a rgb splitter then I can't help you as I only have one rgb fan.
After a very loong research, I came to conclusion that to get the best out of SN850, Orico would be the only choice. So I ordered Orico 40GBps: (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08DNLWCK7)
I also purchased 1TB WD Black SN850, I'll post my results when they come in in a few days.
My GTX 970 is also EVGA so, if brand names are to be of concern, I have also found an alternative that's also EVGA that's also currently on sale. 100w less than the the previous one I shared though I also doubt an XPS 8300 Dell is going to be power hungry to need 700. I've tried out the Newegg PSU calculator and with my setup, it barely scrapes past maybe 490. This one is not modular however if mixing PSU cables is a problem anyways then perhaps non-modular would be a way to go.
I've been considering something like this which, is 700w 80+ bronze which, is also seems to be a reasonable price.
I'm not sure what atx size PSU means but, do you think this would fit my case as far as lining up for the screws goes and have the proper connections? It shows it has a 6+2 and an 8 pin. Would that work for a GTX 970? It also comes with 6 sata's and 3 pata's which seems like it would be enough and, is semi modular so in theory, if I need more for other components I could just buy some more cables.
Connect to your PC with a USB cable.
Once plugged in, the computer should recognize the phone. You may need to go into notifications on your phone and make sure USB tethering is activated, as phones will often start in "Charge only" mode and have to be adjusted each time. If you see an entry marked "Charging only", tap it and make sure USB tethering is selected. If that's not available, go into Settings, Network and see if there is a USB tethering option there that can be activated.
Note that you may have to pay your cell phone provider to activate the USB Tethering feature. It's bundled with my MetroPCS subscription, for example. If you require activation, you'll probably be able to turn on USB tethering but your PC web browser will be directed to a page explaining that you have to pay to activate.
If nothing works, check with your cell phone maker -- some phone makers have downloadable drivers for Windows that will make the USB tethering feature work.
Or, try PDANet+, which consists of a Google Play app and a Windows application that allow you to tether if your phone or provider don't otherwise support it.
The components you describe will run under 250 watts -- TDP on the CPU is 54 watts, TDP on the GPU is 75 watts. Add another 100W of assorted stuff and you're still under 250W.
The question you need to answers is: do you want a power supply for only this system? Or do you hope to carry it forward to an upgraded system?
If the only goal is to keep this old system up and running, I'd look for the cheapest/no-name ATX power supply I could find, probably spend no more than $30 on it, like this:
Make sure you get the right length.
Can I ask what you intend to do with the PC as it seems quite expensive at nearly $1200 and I'm sure I could find a better deal.
Were you sending audio through the 3.5 mm headphone jack (green) from your motherboard to your soundbar?
If so, to replace that, as Lori2806 pointed out, a USB audio interface is your best option. If you only care about audio playback and not recording, I'd get something like this:
​
The quality will vary depending on the onboard DAC, the Creative Labs one at $20 seems good bang for buck. From looking at the reviews, sounds like you could end up with some hiss but you can fix that by disabling unused sound channels in the Creative Labs software.
Note, USB audio interfaces act funny with Windows 8+ when the computer goes to sleep and if you had any browsers still running that had audio playback paused. You sometimes have to go into the Sound Playback window and disable/re-enable the USB device in that list for everything to work again. Minor annoyance, but bears being mentioned.
What you have there is a so-called mini-DIN plug (for "Deutsches Institut für Normung", a German standards body) that offers 5V and 12V.
It is probably the same as this, but without detailed information on the HD enclosure, I can't say for sure whether the pinout on the connector is what you need.
My recommendation would be to skip the enclosure entirely. Remove the hard disk and attach it to something like this, a dedicated USB-to-IDE device that comes with the right power adapter. Better to spend $20 on a useful general-purpose device than $20 on a power adapter that may or may not work correctly.
Finally, I note that the drive is marked for USB and Firewire. Was it used for a Mac? If so, you may need to hook it back up to a Mac to get the data off of it, since a Windows PC won't be able to read a Mac filesystem.
Just got a new Western Digital 2TB 3.5-Inch SATA 7200 RPM 64MB, Black from Amazon. It's just a storage drive and there's nothing important on it that isn't backed up regularly, but I'm wondering if I should return it. It's made this sound since I installed it (only after shutdown) but shows no diagnostic problems.