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Everything you need to know about plant nutrients is not contained in an article that's a few paragraphs long. It's a rabbit hole that will last you the rest of your life.
I would start with: https://youtu.be/im42xjLEk3A and other recommended reading by the Bionutrient Food Association.
I would read Teaming with Microbes and Teaming with Nutrients for the basic introduction and reference set.
Then I would read most of Albrecht and Howard.
And then you want a copy of https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Soil-v2-0-Handbook-Agriculture/dp/0984487697 "The Ideal Soil" from soilminerals.com which will tell you how to read a soil test, make recommendations, and give valuable information about where and what to source.
I'd be pretty pissed at Yahoo for the report. It seems to say "Look at this fuckin' weirdo!" It really doesn't help his case when really it's easy enough to look around and ask neighbors "How do you know these creatures are coming from his yard?"
You could start an IndyGoGo page for him and pass the link around. At bare minimum you can help him defray some of his legal costs.
I started on 2 acres last year. See if you can get drone shots from over head. Go out in a heavy rain storm and learn your stormwater flow patterns. Really the first year is all about learning your property through the seasons. If you are itching to get started learning to grow start a small 100sq ft garden to just play and learn. It will take so much planning that I wouldn't expect to commit to anything to big for the first year as it's really beneficial to plan for your whole property to work best as a system. I also suggest this as your first and main book for the first year: https://www.amazon.com/Bill-Mollison-Introduction-Permaculture-5-2-2002/dp/B00HTJMUMQ
I bury the string anchored with garden staples when I set the plants. I usually bury 2 strings to begin with, and I'll add a couple as a couple new stalks take shape. I tie them up with a tiny bit of slack to the trellis, then just twist the string around as they grow!
They make special four wheel drive fork lifts for bees.
Hives are placed in remote areas, 20-30 minutes and you could load a bunch of hives and be gone. Slap a bee transport business magnetic door sign on your truck and drive away, people can't tell if you are authorized to be moving these or those sets of hives. I think it is not uncommon in California, like bee truck "spills" on Hwy 99
http://news.google.com/newspapers?id=7TsuAAAAIBAJ&sjid=L9cFAAAAIBAJ&pg=997%2C1933087
Perhaps take a look at this book, I found it pretty interesting. Growing food in a hotter drier land.
I went to government run educational institutions too, I am not unaware of the "mainstream" position. Government does not provide castles, but rather take castles (the resources for a castle) away from people.
Social Interaction != Government
When the government builds a road, it takes those resources, and then takes a percentage of those resources, and uses them to inefficiently to build a couple roads and schools to justify its own existence.
Government officials have no incentive for reducing costs or maximizing efficiency, and typically lack the knowledge and skills in order to make an intelligent decision on a matter like where to build a bridge. Instead of running market studies, analyzing traffic patterns, collecting as many bids as possible, as well as verifying the reputation of those who are bidding... they typically build the bridge wherever their lobbyists tell them & send the contract to the most inefficient construction firm with the most union jobs in order to buy votes. A government bridge likely spent enough resources to build at least (1) another bridge nearby (2) a couple factories and (3) a network of durable roads.
Infrastructure does not promote economic growth, but rather economic growth promotes infrastructure (video: TED talk). If you want to properly understand economics, and avoid confusion, try to distinguish between dollars (currency, fiat, etc) and wealth (resources, goods, services, etc).
P.S. This is all of course a distraction from the central point that too many people believe these idiots who tell us that God, Democracy, Consent of the People, or a Constitution ordained them to be our masters.
Her published literature is absolutely wonderful!
Here's a list of many of those
No matter how many lectures or interviews I watch, she always has more to share, and does so in a way that is very down to earth and thought provoking.
"Inculcate" is certainly one way i could say it i suppose. I do not believe "inoculate" to be incorrect, and i believe it to be the most direct, and accurate verb to describe the action.
: to teach and impress by frequent repetitions or admonitions
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/inculcate
b : to introduce (as a microorganism) into a suitable situation for growth
Ecosia is pretty cool.
> Ecosia is an Internet search engine based in Berlin, Germany, that plants trees by donating 80% or more of its surplus income to non-profit organizations that focus on reforestation and conservationism. Ecosia considers itself a social business, is CO2-negative,[3] claims to support full financial transparency,[4] protects the privacy of its users[5] and is certified by B-Lab as a benefit corporation.[6]
> The website maintains a running total of the number of trees planted.[7] According to their website, as of 9 July 2019, the search engine had been responsible for the planting of more than 61 million trees.[7]
I see these posts a lot and I wonder why and how folks try to recruit deep close personal family friends and coworkers to make a major life change on the internet. Like does that remotely ever even kind of work? Maybe I'm being naïve and that's been a thing since before match.com lol.
I would try and find permie folks on reddit and youtube. Canadian Permaculture was going to have a meet up. Apparently permies is a vanity site not a community forum like i thought. Like why isn't ecovillage more popular? Maybe its like when we get started we talk a lot and then we start running with the lifestyle and work and don't so so much talking anymore. I especially have been trying to use the keyword solar-punk to distinguish from xtian-prepper because it matters to me.
You need free wifi as part of your special community zoning request. Every business and community in a place where the city doesn't offer it should make this the top priority for attracting clients / customers / consumers / landbuyers.
I want to rant about the myopic view so many permies take on the state of our world for a second (warning!).
Permaculture design principles go so far beyond gardening and farming. Where are the permaculture medical facilities and lawfirms? The permaculture commercial development companies and the permaculture industrial manufacturing plants? This stuff needs to be integrated into the many parts our global systems before it will make a difference.
An couple examples from basic systems theory: slime molds. You can download slime mold simulations like here and mess with the parameters. You can see that if there aren't enough cells, self organization doesn't occur. Similarly, if the correct signals aren't sent, or dont last long enough, self organization won't occur.
Similarly, models of contagion through populations illustrate how things tend to spread much more quickly when there are a more vectors for contamination. An isolated patients risk of spreading Ebola vs someone on a crowded bus.
Lastly, we can look at ants. If all the ants just follow each other around, they make death spirals aka self organizing circle jerks. Its only when the ant colonies are doing a diversity of tasks does it succeed.
Anyway, my point is that permaculture needs to integrate into every part of the global socioeconomic system before well see any results. Systems thinking! Design at a system level isn't just a good idea for a garden.
one thing to keep in mind with swales is that if you have a basement having percolation through the hillside will increase the humidity in the basement possibly leading to seeping, mold and rot issues (depending on a number of factors). so it may be wise to dig some ditches and linked ponds to move water away from the foundation rather than sink it into the foundation. ideally in a temperate cold climate you want to keep your foundation as dry as possible which means moving water away from your house not creating a soil lake around your house. typically in wet climates swale linked pond systems end up being the most viable water management strategy. however building large ponds gets very expensive so if you have a large property this may not be viable. small hand dug gleed or clay lined seasonal ponds are pretty cheap though.
do a soil test and figure out your soil composition and percolation rate http://www.treepeople.org/soil-percolation-rates
from this you can probably approximate the radius of the soil percolation and movement down the slope from your earthworks. more clay soils will have a more horizontal drainage profile and sandier soil will be more vertical. percolation basically looks like a tree root so you can use that pattern to visualize water movement.
LOL at the image disguised as the video on this one.
I can kind of sympathize with the annoying email sign up every time, but the video thing is like popup add porn site scum tactics.
Unrelated check out this spam reducing email website I use sometimes...
Bayou? Are you in Louisiana? My college course had this book for reading: https://www.amazon.com/Control-Nature-John-McPhee/dp/0374522596 It featured a chapter on the overly expensive and less than satisfactory attempts at engineered solutions to the problem of flooding from the Atchafalya.
You can prevent a lot of inland flooding from planting mangrove forests and otherwise leaving wetlands and swamps alone; they are the sponges.
On dry land, instead of channeling with concrete into pipes, which depletes the groundwater and allows saltwater to infiltrate, which kills off agriculture, everybody ought to maximize tree canopy square footage, to slow down rainwater. The water than infiltrates into the dirt; reduce concrete and asphalt as much as possible. Water coming off of roofs should be channeled into cisterns for individual building internal plumbing use. Overflow should then be spread out and slowed into bioswales, dry wells, dry creeks, underground infiltration chambers, which allow for water to soak into the groundwater.
This is a regional strategy.
Just watched a few of this guys videos on youtube but I read comments from readers of his books saying that they found them good. He seemed to really know what he was talking about and here is a link to one of Martin Crawford's books.
Happy gardening!
These cards are so neat! I was introduced to permaculture about a year ago, when I took an Ecological Psychology class as an undergrad. We read a book called Urban Homesteading (I'll try to find a link to it), that covers a range of ecological/organic/homesteading topics and instructions. I'm a renter and haven't been able to implement it much in my life, but I love learning more about it and how to implement in my future planning!
Edit: Here it is on Amazon. If you're interested in permaculture and related topics (there's a section on permaculture but that's not the focus), I really recommend it! Urban Homesteading: Heirloom Skills for Sustainable Living https://www.amazon.com/dp/161608054X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_gfPQwbPHSP8MK
Don’t buy this one or support amazon, but after three decades of tinkering with the process, I can say a fork like this has revolutionized my mulch game. Truper Handle 30331 Tru Tough 54-Inch Manure/Bedding Fork, 10-Tine, Long Hand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL6RY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C-ifFbQ6W4C1R
If you've been IP-banned from the forums, you can download and use FoxyProxy free proxy servers which can be used with a proxy program. These tools used in conjunction with the 'private browsing' features available on most mainstream browsers are a fairly easy-to-use tool set for circumventing ridiculous bans on varying sites, though I'd caution you not to use these proxies for sensitive information, checking bank accounts & the like. If you get banned again it's as easy as switching proxies & re-registering with an alternate account. This also assumes that the sites you wish to access don't use some form of advanced proxy-filtering.
Say's zinc, iron and manganese are the most common and most of those studies are talking about tire dumps (ie: millions of tires) or fields of shredded tires.
Zinc iron and manganese are essential nutrients for plants and humans and it doesn't sound like the levels from one tire that's not shredded is a health risk and is very potentially a health benefit.
The hydrocarbon issue is pretty vague. That stuff exists everywhere and is a by product of burning and some other stuff. It's also not water soluble and most likely to just become airborne rather then be absorbed by the plants.
Also, since I'll be using compost, the continued compost process might break down the hydrocarbons as well (lots of fungi do this).
http://www.ted.com/talks/paul_stamets_on_6_ways_mushrooms_can_save_the_world.html
Thanks for the info :-)
When you touch them, they curl into a little rolly poly ball. https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-15740020-pill-woodlouse-bug-armadilliidium-sp-unrolling-these
My little kitty started visiting the neighbor's garden and we corrected that behavior with a hose. They don't like being wet and they don't like digging in wet dirt. But if they doesn't work red pepper flakes, coffee grounds, lemon peels, and other natural remedies might work. If they are more persistent than that, you can lightly bury something pokey in the dirt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0998TP5BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_2T6B4VQ1G3GQN8ST3BC2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Glyphosate perhaps, but what about all the other ingredients in RoundUp(TM)? It's in the news these days how some of the supposedly "inert" ingredients in RoundUp are possibly more toxic than Glyphosate, that's part of how Monsanto keeps getting away with claiming it's so safe. This is a problem in general with pesticides and (and probably many other chemical products)... some studies last year showed that many pesticides in their complete market form were more toxic than their listed "active ingredients". This is a huge problem because "inert ingredients" are usually a trade secret, so it means you just don't know how many unknown poisons are in all the stuff you use.
You could go the agroforestry route. It's more or less the academic version of permaculture. It doesn't really focus on building and technology so much though. The focus is much more on food systems.
If phosphorus becomes an issue within your system (growth get's out of control and your DO becomes too low to support downstream aquatic life), you can either look into chemical precipitation with metal salts (Alum or Ferric Sulphate. Avoid Ferrous Sulphate as it requires aeration which you likely won't have enough of) or you can utilize sorptive media (sand filter), or a combination of the two. If you add the right dosage, you should precipitate the added chemical and orthophosphate. This may be beyond what you're looking to build.
Ion exchange is another potential technology that I know is used to treat groundwater with high salinity for commercial drinking purposes. This is likely a significant cost.
Not sure if you're familiar with instructables, but here is one article I noted.
I work as a Wastewater Engineer and while I have been working less than 5 years in the industry, I am more than willing to help in any way I can. Best of luck and let us know how it works out.
not diy, but http://www.dutchtub.com/ for ideas
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-wood-fired-hot-tub/
use copper piping (wort chiller like) in a large pot/vessel thats being boiled with a wood fire
So much research has been done on indoor/greenhouse gardening and the ways to make it work better with less energy input. I am disappointed that the OP is so locked into linear-thinking that s/he can't imagine any alternatives to electric lights and heaters.
In the future, clean water is going to be a much bigger concern, and low-water ways of producing food are going to be as important as low-energy methods.
"But how would you prevent someone from establishing a private business in your stateless society? Maybe to ensure that all businesses are owned by the workers you could form some sort of communist anarchist organization with rules, and then use coercion to force others to follow your rules? Oh wait... That sounds a lot like a state."
I am very familiar with this argument, which is often presented by anarcho-capitalists. First of all, aren't rules in a private company enforced through coercion? Isn't private property itself enforced by violence? You seem to assume that private businesses will naturally flourish in a stateless society, when the opposite has been true historically. Pretty much all stateless societies so far have been based on communal property of land, resources and means of production, with some of them allowing for private businesses on a small scale. Never has a stateless society been based on private property.
Large private enterprises have only emerged through force, and coercion, and are based on hierarchical structures which go against anarchist principles. Private property itself is based on violence and coercion(https://www.academia.edu/1636420/Why_Do_Philosophers_Talk_so_Much_and_Read_so_Little_About_the_Stone_Age).
So to answer your question: I wouldn't do anything to stop a private business being established on a voluntary basis. If this business starts to destroy natural resources that people depend on or anything of the sort however, this wouldn't be tolerated by the people affected by it. Also, workers in a given company would probably organize themselves and communalize it if the business grows too large, which has happened with many businesses in Catalonia.
I would stay start small. Maybe with a notebook or similar. And think of what you really want to keep and remember when writing it down!
Since you have a lot of digital things too, maybe you can use something similar to what I did, which is using airtable. See my log here: https://airtable.com/shrGJyjfQQ2UjkWMY
You could extend that and add links to reddit, youtube, etc there.
I think so. You've seen West, Bettencourt, Brown's work on city scaling i think. It would be fairly trivial to take that model and just plug in different energy levels (ie. total net solar energy flows vs. total net fossil fuel stocks) to figure out carrying capacity of different energy stocks or flows.
most like something like that has already been done. there's a bit of a cottage industry right now in scaling research.
eg. http://bioscience.oxfordjournals.org/content/61/1/19.full
have you come across Odum's work on maximum power? it relates to that concept of efficiency not being an evolutionary goal
Do you mean scientific in the sense of empirical reductionism or scientific in the sense of experimentation based on direct observation? the latter is possible in nonlinear, complex systems with more than 6 dimensions; the first is not because you cannot find direct causality in multidimensional systems. at a certain point the effect becomes the cause and you really can't isolate single causality. in a networked system this tends to happen when the network shifts to it's giant component, or in Tobin Hemenway's term the garden 'pops'. So is the higher yield (or lower) in your food forest caused by bird shit, mycellium (which species?), initial conditions, weather changes, interaction with comfrey, nitrogen from the italian alder, or some other interaction from the 60+ species that are in the giant component of the food forest network? There is no classical science that can determine that. And there probably never will be because in complex systems science you basically have to abandon causality and only look at structure.
I'm not saying that we should abandon scientific methods (especially experimentation) but 18th to 20th century science is very limited when it comes to applied complex sciences like ecology. Why do you think almost all ecology is just data collection? Because you can actually do that within the existing scientific paradigm. Anything applied is usually simulation models based on the data. I mean it would be great if we had access to those kinds of resources as a community but we don't. So most permaculture research takes place through direct observation experiments and whatever theory trickles out of the institutions.
The main problem there is erosion from water, so the point is to slow down the water running down.
There are several ways, depending on the angle. I wanted to list them from memory, but perhaps google can help with visual examples:
https://www.wikihow.com/Prevent-Soil-Erosion
This is a good introductory page and it should give you the necessary terms to search for in order to get more details.
You could buy ten or more house geckos and let them loose on the pile. I have used them to control cockroaches in the crawlspace of a home and populations of them are seeded in warehouses for the same purpose.
I have it on the West Coast. Using the VPN Speedify and linking it with our basic DSL, and we can do many hours of multi person video streaming, like Skype, with few glitches. Had to take a few trees down to achieve this, and there are a few more in the way, which are staying.
Maybe check out Paul Wheaton's audiobook Building a Better World in Your Backyard, or his podcasts "Homesteading and Permaculture by Paul Wheaton." There's currently 557 of them, covering lots of different topics, so it's a deep rabbit hole to go down!
I picked up a little saw-toothed sickle thingy (https://www.amazon.com/Nisaku-NJP1040-Blade-Stainless-Sickle/dp/B01M3YP2X1) awhile back, and it's become my favorite tool for tidying the garden. It goes right through blackberry vines like pruning shears, but unlike shears it can just as easily cut a handful of grass or bracken. It's not great on big woody stuff, but for big woody stuff I prefer to use my electric chainsaw or a brush blade on a weedeater anyway.
In addition to the native groundcovers, there are some great multiseed pollinator/cover crop mixes out there too. This one from Amazon is a pretty good example. These would help with preventing erosion while you get long term plantings established.
The other thing you might consider is mulching. That sounds like a lot of ivy to pull at once, but if you pull some and mulch the rest with cardboard boxes, the mulch will weaken it and make it much easier to pull out later. I would throw grass clippings, leaves, logs, woodchips, rocks, whatever you have on the cardboard to weigh it down.
I have been pushing back an ivy bed for years now, and I like this method because I can established planted zones and then focus on keeping them clear, then when I want to plant more stuff I tear up the mulch, dig out the ivy, and enlarge my space. I like to use a sturdy hoe and shears to cut most of the ivy off at ground level and just roll it back like a carpet before digging the roots.
r/shroomid
Edit: I also have the National Audubon Society Field Guide to Mushrooms which has almost 1000 pages of how to ID specific mushrooms with pictures. I think it’s on Amazon :) happy hunting!
National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Mushrooms (National Audubon Society Field Guides) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0394519922/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8xXOFb7VDBG94?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the biggest book on the gardening aspects I’ve ever seen. It’s like the DM but all gardening. I’ve only been able to read like 1/4 of it. I also like that the author sticks to reserach-based stuff, which makes it almost like a totally different type of permaculture. No microbial sprays or biochar and he seems dismissive of hugels. It has more about the actual “how to” of doing the gardening than any other I’ve seen, and it has a whole lot of garden designs and examples. The downside is it’s too focused on the aesthetics (I care less about the beauty than the abundance) and the author‘s personal philosophy. It has whole chapters that list plants and guilds by color, for example. Maybe that would be good for someone who wants to do landscaping. https://www.amazon.com/Beauty-Abundance-Beautiful-Landscapes-Permaculture/dp/1737841304
I got one of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Zenport-K310-Clearing-Sickle-Aluminum/dp/B01FJMKND2
It’s less of a machete and more of a sickle, but I found it to be super useful for lots of stuff.
I'm a big fan of my sunjoe corded chainsaw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T0FSV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This was basically a "i'm not sure i want to invest in a chainsaw but I need something bigger than a mini chainsaw." With my limited chainsaw experience, I've found this one really easy to use if you're afraid of kickback because the moment you release the trigger the chain stops. (I think it disconnects from the drive so the engine slows down at its own pace). It's strong enough to rip some small logs but I had to buy a ripping chain, not that that's applicable for you.
They do make lawn vacuums that suck up the leaves, but they tend to be larger machines or attachments for lawn mowers themselves. Also, "lawn sweepers" are a thing that come in powered and manual/push varieties as well, but their effectiveness depends greatly on how flat your work area is.
A quick search for "leaf vacuum mulcher" does come up with a WORX model that is a leaf blower/vacuum/mulcher all in one, but I have no experience with it at all so I couldn't recommend it over any of the other results.
Some tips for you if you have a LOT of leaves:
1) Run over them with a lawn mower to break them up or run them through a shredder like this - WORX Leaf Mulcher
The fossil record for lichens is poor, as the extreme habitats that lichens dominate, such as tundra, mountains, and deserts, are not ordinarily conducive to producing fossils.
However, lichens are thought to have existed well back into the Precambrian.
Here's an article on "Lichen-Like Symbiosis 600 Million Years Ago," before the evolution of vascular plants:
When we lived in an RV without power we used something like this:
I can’t find the exact one we got online (purchased at a local boating supply store) but it seems similar.
You recharge it by putting it in the oven to dry out.
I don't have any suggested solutions, but I do have a book recommendation. If you haven't read it yet, North to The Night is a great read, and might give you some insight. The author sails his boat up to the Arctic Circle with the intent to spend the winter there and sail home in the spring when the ice melts. Among other things, he has to battle moisture condensation in his sleeping quarters
​
https://www.amazon.com/North-Night-Spiritual-Odyssey-Arctic/dp/076790446X
https://www.wunderground.com/history/daily/us/nm/albuquerque/KABQ has the historic temperature over time. If you put in your exact address, most likely they'll have a sensor readout available from a couple miles away.
There are dots on those apples, so OP does have some. I cut away the damaged parts and cook the rest in pie and apple sauce. Next year I am trying this https://www.amazon.com/Maggot-Barriers-Organic-100-pack/dp/B09P44HLM5
I have a bunch of small apple trees and was dismayed at all the insect activity. So, I harvested them and got me an apple corer (like you see on an episode of "Firefly") and core them up. The centers often have bug frass and I just cut away the other bug bit parts. The rest of the apple slices get dipped in a mild citric acid solution so they don't brown up and I freeze or dehydrate them. I just made some pie with the Granny Smith apples that fell off the tree last week and I am eyeballing the half dozen remaining for some apple sauce.
Next year I am getting maggot barriers https://www.amazon.com/Maggot-Barriers-Organic-100-pack/dp/B09P44HLM5 (I don't wear panty hose, so I don't have any to cut up to put over small apples) and maybe some pheromone traps to see if I can avoid that.
Whole cumin seed for sale at amazon
That is not an affiliate link. I have no vested interest in this seller or product. Just hoping to help out.
Cut it with a machete, take a hoe and dig the roots out. Simple, fast, easy, and more eco-friendly than glyphosate and the other crap some are telling you to do.
If you don't have a hoe, this one will do: https://www.amazon.com/Truper-33119-Forged-7-Inch-54-Inch/dp/B0046VAH84/ref=nav_signin?crid=KQMPJSM0VOEQ&keywords=hoe&qid=1661905164&sprefix=hoe%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-27
It will be better if you find one with a long blade and not just wide.
Get an IR illuminator, like https://www.amazon.com/Tendelux-Illuminator-Infrared-Security-Adapter/dp/B09FQB2K78
These are intended to add more "night vision" for security cameras, I have one in my back yard that lights up the whole area far more than my security camera's built-in IR LEDs do. But they aren't visible to human vision. If you point them at your neighbor's camera, they won't see anything at night but pure white on their cameras. That doesn't address the fact that they can see during the day though.
Yes, yes, yes. Absolutely. Get a scythe and peening equipment to sharpen your blade. It's a process where you use a hammer and tiny anvil to cold-form the metal to a sharp edge before using a whetstone. This way, you get a hard and sharp edge that will last.
There are many solutions out there, here is just an example: https://www.amazon.com/ARTI-Scythe-PEENING-JIG/dp/B084YQ86WK
Google peening jig.
I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSMMK9K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details which has some of it, from Amazon. Could it ship to you?
It's Mountain Valley Seed
We just discovered Spinosad organic insecticide. This saved us from a plague of Harlequin bugs that were destroying our collards. You will thank me.
Here in the South, Cabbage moths and Harlequin bugs are the one two punch for cruciferous vegetables when the weather heats up. Bt has already been noted, but also get acquainted with another bacterial based pesticide called Spinosad. Nothing else is as effective for harlequins, flee beetles and the dreaded Mustard Sawfly. You will thank me:
Read the book Self-sufficiency by John Seymour and it explains exactly what needs to be done to be self-sufficient on that type of area of land. When you are planting your native trees I'd try to place them on the side of the property facing the prevailing wind so they will act as a windbreak for the rest of the area.. I'd include some fruit trees and shrubs that you like the fruit from at this stage as well so currants, gooseberry, apples, pears and others would all be worth considering. You can get thornless varieties of blackberry that are much friendlier to have in the garden and would be my preference.
Whitethorn is good for wildlife and makes a good thorny hedge and windbreak and is available from nurseries for hedging for less than a euro each here. Trees from nurseries are often sold as forestry whips cheaply and at this stage get established faster than more expensive bigger trees so would be good to source. Once you have a few fruit bushes established it is easy to propagate them from hardwood cuttings when you prune them in winter. Get talking to your neighbours about growing in the area as well as they will be able to help you avoid mistakes as they will know the local conditions for growing better than anyone else.
Happy gardening!
These are a couple of my favorite books on gardening that discuss companion planting. "Vegetables Love Flowers" is primarily about companion planting. "The Backyard Gardener" is a great book on gardening basics that includes info on different types of gardening, composting, and companion planting, to name a few things. I highly recommend both of these books!
This is the way. https://www.amazon.com/Milky-80010-9-Japanese-Beetle-Killer/dp/B008EV7BX6/ You only need to apply it every 4-6 years.
I wrote a whole book about Japanese beetles because I could. Did my best to find the best control methods for these little so-and-so's. https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Beetles-Grubs-Easy-Growing-Gardening-ebook/dp/B0785HSLTB
Basically something like this. Short enough that the handle doesn't get in the way like on a scythe but long enough that you aren't bent over all the time. Something a bit more like a short blade Austrian scythe like the 30 cm falci blade here or a small bush blade.
I have a simple true temper sickle that bolts on to a tang so it should be pretty simple to make. I just need to find the time
Gaia's Garden is a great book about planning and designing your garden space with permaculture principles. I've been enjoying it.
I do have EXACTLY the same sign - literally!: https://www.amazon.ca/Feeding-Vertical-Decorative-Outdoor-Decoration/dp/B097LL713M/ref=sr_1_2
I guess someone REALLY wants all lawns to fit their image of a golfer's paradise. :-(
I've looked at making similar apps. For the farmers I talked to, the challenge has always been data entry - the app needs to be simple to use to log data in the field.
For our farm, we use Trello to track tasks from year to year, along with google calendar. We've been considering trying this to tie the two together.
I've moved to working on a solution for the data logging with off-grid electronic bits logging to a base station in the basement which pushes data to the cloud (or a local data store) for later analysis. The goal is to tie/tape a data logger and solar panel in the greenhouse/field/microclimate, name it, then get a log of temp/humidity every hour for the next couple of years.
This stuff got rid of my pill bug infestation really quickly and didn't harm any of my beneficial insects. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WB02DC/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
His method of starting nuts in mesh covered boxes is fantastic, I have 10 of those boxes and I'm growing thousands of saplings every year in a roughly 500 sq ft space. It also requires almost no maintenance. I also recommend this book to anyone interested in plant propagation.
I highly highly highly reccomend Akiva Silver's book Trees of Power. It has incredible information on plant propagation but also just offers a refreshing new environment ethic for people. The trees he covers are based in the North East US, but can be applied to most temperate zones.
Sand is a great rooting medium because it drains well and retains moisture. The heat helps the cuts callous faster, and thus root. Cuttings are a race between rooting and rotting and we want roots to win. I'm a little behind this season but the goal is to have cool tops and warm bottoms for all hardwood cuttings. It will increase the success rate.
The cables are just heating cables for soil heating or gutter melting. I got mine here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P218EFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I know I hate amazon too but I live very rural).
And the thermometer is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F4VFGI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this book is really good: https://www.amazon.com/Year-Round-Solar-Greenhouse-Design-Net-Zero/dp/0865718245
Several build examples, plus explains WHY each feature is included, and climate-specific design factors
Here's the one we got, for $375 CAD. We paid about the same from Lowe's 3...4? years ago. It was a bit of an investment but it's made a considerable difference. Like OP a large portion of our property is wetlands so the mosquitos can be relentless.
well, you identified two issues with it: kids careless with sawdust and extra time collecting sawdust.
I live alone, and I'm neat about sawdust, soo...and IDK... did you add 'sweep the bathroom' to the kids' list of chores?
Extra time collecting sawdust: could that have been delegated to someone in your Bubba circle? Or give one of the mill's employees who lives near you a few bucks gas money or some fresh eggs or whatever to fill the containers and drop them them off at your place, and pick up empty containers on their way to/from work?
The output of a system is only limited by the number of subsystems and the degree of symbiotic interconnection of the subsystems.
If you liked Toby's book, John Jeavons' How to Grow More Vegetables, Ninth Edition: (and Fruits, Nuts, Berries, Grains, and Other Crops) Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land with Less Water Than You Can Imagine another must-have. Super inexpensive for how useful it is. I use it for reference pretty much every year.
People are so against using anything that "goes against nature" ... well squirrels in an urban setting without predation from predatory birds, and coyotes is not "nature" ... It's uncontrolled mid-tier species allowed to wreak havoc on anything they see fit.
I love squirrels, I enjoy watching them, feeding them, and making homes for them on the property. I also have no issue dispatching them if they start messing with my belongings (digging into my roof line for example to bury seeds).
I've used this for prevention - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000071NUS/ - but if they don't get the hint, they get the pellet gun, and hung on a pike near any area their friends are. Call me inhumane, call me divorced from nature, but I am just setting boundaries, there are thousands of oak trees around, plenty of food to go around, they don't need to decimate my garden.
“Eco-farm” is an excellent, in-depth primer that’s relevant to large mechanized farms. A lot of permaculture books focus on small holdings and backyard scale systems.
https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Farm-Acres-U-S-Primer-fertilizers/dp/0911311742
You probably just need something like this.
I have bought and used tons of these whenever I have worked with municipal water containing chlorine/chloramine and they are incredibly effective (especially for the price). You can get a save-a-drop meter and count the gallons before you buy a new filter or just guesstimate.
It is also true that you can simply fill up a container and let it sit, the chlorine and chloramine will turn to gas and evaporate within 24 hours (less if you use an air pump/air stone). But doing that for a half acre farm would be an incredible pain.
Hope this helps.
.:. Love & Light .:.
This is what started me down the chicken path: Chicken Tractor: The Permaculture Guide to Happy Hens and Healthy Soil, Homestead (3rd) Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/0984338209/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_B5R2DSV2ESDEQFZRPS66
“EcoFarm” is the comprehensive primer.
https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Farm-Acres-U-S-Primer-fertilizers/dp/0911311742
“The Intelligent Gardener” has lots of insights into soil chemistry but is fairly preachy
Absolutely permaculture is Anarchistic, but I think from what seen your comment, it might be useful to also examine ideas of socialism outside of the centralized governments of Marxist-Leninism and more fully developed explanations of capitalism, because capitalism is only about free markets to the extent that a lack of laws can permit the further exploitation of workers by the capitalist class.
The government is its own hierarchical social organization; as a state, it's role is to hold a monopoly on legal violence. Capitalism is incapable of functioning without a government to justify and exert violence to enforce private property rights - private property here defined as property used to create profit, such as the landlord ownership of an apartment block or the the hedge fund that owns the company that owns the factories.
And even anarchy can be more socialist or more individualistic. Some of the introductory or popular texts can be a good starting off point.
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I'm finishing the Advanced Permaculture Student Online (APSO) with Matt Powers. I am ecstatically pleased with it. It's a dual certificate with Advanced PDC certificate granted after a unique project completion. I'm an affiliate as well with a shameless plug at the bottom. I would say the same things below even if I wasn't.
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Probably, get a good root hormone. I've been able to propagate almost everything I've tried with this stuff.
These. I used these stackables with good result this past summer. They require good air flow around them but are large enough to grow many things and still maintain a stable stack. I had mine at 4 feet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W42J0CG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I'm taking the Advanced Permaculture Student Online (APSO) with Matt Powers and it is meant to be the next step up from a PDC. It is considered a dual certificate PDC+APDC and completion is dependent on project completion. It's 20 weeks and has 60+ guest teachers. It's also lifetime access and is always expanding. Ex: Elaine Ingham is going to have Matt showcase her new compost preps and that will be in the APSO this spring.
I haven't taken a PDC before, but am 4 years into self study for my home site, and find it extremely worthwhile. His textbook is peer reviewed and is the only global scale permaculture book since Designer's Manual and a lot has changed in the science in 30 years.
If you are wanting general permaculture at a higher level and all the tools necessary for your own homestead then I really think this is where it's at. If you're wanting to move into a specialization then there are other great avenues. Soil- Elaine Ingham's course. Keyline Design- REX with Darren Doherty Mycology- Mycologos with Peter McCoy All of these are guest teachers and those sections have a lot in the APSO, but they dedicate months to a given subject.
Check out The Permaculture Student on Facebook as he's posted a lot of sample videos in the last week and see if it's what you're after. Since it's a dual certificate it does reiterate the basics, but it's really intended to push the envelope on what a PDC is. Also I think his samples don't really showcase the depth of each section.
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I use Krita (https://krita.org/en/) for drawing on images. It handles layers, and scaling and rotating selections, well. I find its interface more intuitive to use than GIMP (https://www.gimp.org/), because I used paint.net instead of photoshop a lot back in the day. People who have stronger photoshop skills tend to get farther than I do with GIMP, Inkscape, and Blender for 3D modeling.
Any powerful graphics software will have a bit of a learning curve, because you have to learn what the various tools do. But everything I listed above has lots of tutorials around the internet.
The nematodes in the product he showed - Heterorhabditis bacteriophora - are fairly ubiquitous, and at are present at some levels in most ecosystems.
Treatments of nematodes are typically temporary, though they can stay at treatment-levels for as long as 54 years in stable ecosystems like turf grass or alfalfa.
>In my bioregion there is no indigenous vegetarian diet. Not in the Haudenosaunee, not in the Abinake, not in the Annishinabek, not in the Innu. It simply doesn't exist. Why is that? Why are there only tropical indigenous vegetarian diets? Why do no cold climate vegetarian diets ever co-evolve? Is it because vegetarianism is fundamentally dependent on fossil fuel driven agriculture? As someone who has been vegetarian my entire adult life these facts make me question the fundamental concept of vegetarianism or at least the role of vegetarian diets in regenerative systems.
The simplest answer is that we need animal products to get through winter. People living in Northern latitudes show genetic adaptations to meat in their diet.
The main problem of course is that animal products as a share of our diet have grown to ridiculous proportions. Japan did fine on 10 kg of meat per capita per year in 1962, why would the average American need 12 times as much today?
The question then becomes what sort of animal products we should be looking for. Shellfish consume the algae that grow as a result of leached nutrients and thus allow us to recycle nutrients back into the system. It was common in many places to eat freshwater shellfish too, the Lenape were known to eat them for example and archeologists in the United States often find piles of freshwater shellfish that were consumed.
Personally, the only meat I eat consists of shellfish.
I've certainly noticed the shortcomings of TVP and TZM in the short time in which I've been following them. I agree with much of what you're saying, but I cannot realistically see myself being removed from the global socioeconomic system to the degree which you are describing. In the future, I want to be able to see my family regularly, and I want to raise children. It certainly is a goal of mine to get to the point where I don't need to deal with money ever again, but I cannot see myself returning to the forest, as you say. The Internet is far too essential of a tool for me to give it up indefinitely. While you still have access to it, I would recommend that you utilize Duolingo or a website like it in order to gain a basic grasp on the language spoken in whichever country to which you find yourself drawn.
I've been wanting to try a toona tree in our yard, just trying to find space for another tree. :) edible leaves, really pretty too.
It turned out very neat and convenient. Also placed snow clearing tools behind the barn. The tools do not take up a lot of useful space and it is quite convenient to use them. I wrote a small review. Hope this will be helpful...
For those in the US southwest, I found this one successful. Lot's of great companion lists by season. May be applicable in other climates as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Gardening-Organic-Hostile-Deserts/dp/0970501609
Here is the sequel on using flowers to incorporate to keep pests and animals away.
Subsurface runoff... It's a thing! and I think it's how sales work!
Although surface runoff is what I should have referred to in this comment which you've played telephone with. So I'll go ahead and fix that mistake since soil filters pollutants out of the water and when your pollutant is a fertilizer, that's a good thing! Nitrate and phosphorous laden surface runoff is what causes algeal blooms and oceanic dead zones.
Thanks, I guess, I learned something today!
Ok so the premise of agroecology is not controversial, but more its relation to food policy/politics.
I think I might've skimmed Agrarian Dreams a couple years ago. I agreed with it.
To me, overpopulation, mass society, the industrial diet are at the core of this issue. And the associate ecocide.
While I think there is quite a bit of retarded misinfo about GMO's floating around, I think there are a number of legitimate concerns I wont bother to go into here. 'black swan' related risks. In general, erosion rates are a severe indictment of this type of agriculture.
I was doing impulsive research the other night, came across this
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1359511309003948
Not sure what it means, but an extracted protein from GM soy has an LD50 of 4.5mg/kg in mice. Thats weird. I want to investigate the issue on a pretty close level.
Last random thing, I have an BS in a closely related topic and this type of stuff is important to me, my career, so I do dissect a lot of poor arguments against GM on a regular basis. But blanket statements like 'dont worry! everything will be fine' dont quite pass the smell test, events like Fukushima come to mind. Humans have a number of cognitive biases which severely affect our calculation of risk. Only time will tell.
WorldCat is a database of all types of media you can search and link to many resources.
http://www.worldcat.org/title/bioshelter-market-garden-a-permaculture-farm/oclc/705515588/viewport
Bioshelter market garden : a permaculture farm Type: Internet Resource; English Publisher: Gabriola Island, BC : New Society Publishers, ©2011
Biochar is not as simple as that, and it is totally irreversible. SOME types of biochar will increase the soil quality, others does not, and I have been working with a soil scientist who have observed negative results.
Hey, coming from someone who lives underground, and requires plants indoors to maintain mental health.
These capillary watering spikes are amazing, every indoor grower should be using them, there is no easier way, everything else it hard-mode.
I have tried electronic watering, and every other method I could find under the sun. These are the only option I go to now.
I know people get stuck on their projects as part of their identity, but maybe save yourself the trouble because I think the public should be made aware of these instead, because watering indoor plants by hand is a pain in the ass, and risky to the plants because of over/under watering.
That all being said, if you decide to make a better pot, note that this capillary action is the way to go, but there are also pots out there that already do this sort of thing, but they are pricey. And these spikes solve the same problems at a fraction of a cost.
Buying a home esp. if you want it to be a farm is not the same as buying a house in a cookie-cutter neighborhood - there is MUCH more to look at, so much that you could write a book about it (https://www.amazon.com/Finding-Buying-Your-Place-Country/dp/0793141095). Highly recommended.
Most people, however, look at cost first. Then there is the question of high speed internet - if you need it to work from home to pay the mortgage, well, many rural areas don't have it. Hence, it becomes a seriously limiting factor (I am speaking of 3rd world countries like USA where high speed internet is not widespread). In my country of 600+ sq miles and 55,000 people, there are MANY whole live in hills, hollows, "insignificant" country roads etc. and internet is but a dream. We looked for a place for six months just to find one that had the acreage and the internet but had to compromise on the house (livable but needed/needs renovation, land - had no farm infrastructure but a barn), topography (not flat but workable) etc. etc. - and fit that into a budget (bought 4 years ago - today the same place would cost $100k+ more due to market pressures).
Good luck.
I read this book when I was living in Oakland... very inspiring. I had a little garden in our back fenced in area that was mostly concrete. Lots of good waste streams to tap into in the city.
Book: Gaia’s Garden, link below (don’t buy it from Amazon).
https://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-Guide-Home-Scale-Permaculture/dp/1603580298
YouTube: edible acres (link below) is my favorite but there’s a bunch more out there. They’re a little all over the place but their playlists help tame the madness.
Once you start to get ideas about things from the book or edibleacres or elsewhere, just Plug the terms into YouTube and you’ll find an insane amount of information.