Plastic Adjustable Float Valve fr Aquarium Reverse Osmosis System Uses 1/4 Inch Supply Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FCKR5EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4QSX1KCMG26KD5BQ8K6D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Cyanobacteria. What kind of water do you use? Usually blooms with tap water. The first tank I had I used tap water years ago, had that stuff constantly. Chemiclean keeps it at bay.
Chemi-Clean - 2 g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025YRJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ymoSDbZCX9GC3
B-Best Guardians of The Galaxy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1KVD2V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I previously never would have thought about putting something like this in my tank, but I’m really liking it
You're question cannot be answered without knowing the TDS of the tap water. Get a TDS pen first to check. They're pretty cheap, and always a good idea to be able to double check the TDS readings on your RODI unit.
Personally I think you might be starting out on the wrong foot if you use distilled. Honestly better to get the 4 stage RO Buddie from Amazon for $60.
This isn’t really the hobby to cut corners on, but you do you.
I put a coral lens kit up on amazon for cheap if anyone is looking for a good deal. Honestly I’m not even making any money on them, I just thought it’d be fun to try and I wanted to be more involved in the community. So gobble em up while they’re available and enjoy!
I would make a post about it, but I’m not sure how the admins would feel :/
In any case, enjoy fellow reefers.
Aquatic Frontiers Coral Lens Kit
I started an instagram page too if anyone is interested in sharing their pics.
@aquatic_frontiers
Best reddit community ever 🐠🐟🐡❤️
It looks like an Evo 13.5. I had dinos in mine a few months ago and I got this UV light and just turned it on at night when I went to bed. I put it alongside my heater in the second filter chamber. It’s not shielded so definitely don’t look at it but it worked wonders. I also dosed a little nitrate and phosphate every couple days and my dinos were gone in a week. Just be aware that some Dino species do not go into the water column and so UV won’t do anything for them. Properly identifying what Dino species you have will help determine how to treat it.
Aquarium Clean Light Submersible Waterproof Lamp Water Clean Green Algae Clear for Fish Tank Pond 11W (HUV-11) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDK29VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T0FXF9ZRDG5K8K2WXQGT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But also bought calibrating solution: https://www.amazon.com/Fritz-Aquatics-Refractometer-Calibration-Solution/dp/B08QL2L86C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1HM46RNDI35OY&dchild=1&keywords=refractometer+calibration+solution&qid=1632016960&sprefix=refractometer&sr=8-3
If I get a surprise answer I make sure it's calibrated.
I also have a hydrometer that was calibrated at the store. It reads .0015 low, but as long as I know that it works out. After 3 years the hydrometer still agrees with the calibrated refractometer.
That would probably keep things alive, but it's a purely 420nm light so you'll probably experience some weird growth and inconsistency. For the price and effort to run that off mains power I'd go for something with a wider spectrum like this 12w cheapie from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/ABI-Coral-Optimized-Spectrum-PAR38/dp/B01LWP37SD/
Yes exactly, I do a 5 gallon (50%) water change once or twice a month. I did recently start feeding this and everything seems happy about it.
Red Sea Reef Energy Plus AB+ 500ml Aquatics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087BCPVRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RHSAX9M2AMNGM2WHKQSK
The stock light is decent. I added some Led strips into the lid and got really good sps growth.
I added 4x of these (keeping stock light).
https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-18LEDs-Aquarium-Strip-Light/dp/B00OP3P0XA/
I'd plug the hole at the bottom of the overflow wall, ditch the filter setup and use some eggcrate to make a basket.
For flow, the jebao wavemakers can't be beat when on a budget.
Sounds like you should add an ammonia source. Check this stuff out. Unless your ammonia test kit is bad.
Thank you! My fiancé got me these lenses to take pictures of our tank and I used the orange one for this picture!
I bought one of these 12watt full spectrum bulbs from Amazon for $25
I'm currently housing a bunch of softies and a few LPS all doing really well. The color is very blue though..
Unless it produced 0 TDS water, you would still want a RODI unit to make water to use for the tank. Spoiler alert: It likely doesn't. Well worth a $10-$15 investment to have a TDS pen so you can check for yourself.
The word "refugium" is a bit misleading
> refuge : a place that provides shelter or protection
Refuge. (n.d.). Retrieved January 28, 2017, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/refuge
Basically, it's a place where little critters have a place to reproduce and live out their tiny little lives in peace and happiness without much if any predation from the other critters that are populating your tank.
Additionally, people who keep a fuge grow macro algae to help soak up additional nutrients by allowing the macro algae to grow and out compete the nuisance algae. Also, people usually have a grow light for the algae on a reverse light cycle to the main tank to help with O2 levels in the tank.
So basically, it helps control excess nutrients, allows the microfauna in your system a place to live, and help with O2 levels in the water.
In your case, you need to get your nutrients in check, and a fuge with macro will help, but you need to look at your total nutrient export methods.
thanks! I was wondering what those downvotes were all about... I had the same problem with my Nexus 9 btw... but 'forcing' it to install by downloading the .APK outside the play store let me install it, and it works flawlessly... but there's a chance it's ACTUALLY not compatible also(if your manufacturer hasn't installed the API that the app uses to control the camera)
try downloading it from here instead, worth a shot https://apkpure.com/az-camera-manual-pro-cam/com.hecorat.camera
What's the TDS of your tap water? If it's very low (as in 0-2 ppm), you may not have issues, but that's very unlikely to be the case. If you want to find out, get a TDS meter.
I have these: https://www.amazon.com/SMATFARM-LED-Aquarium-Light-Dimmable/dp/B08VWRJXS9
Kind of an AI Hydra 26 knockoff. They're about $100. I think the camera is overexposing the surroundings a bit but the light definitely has some good output.
The quick answer is no, unless your tap water happens to be 0 TDS. Otherwise you will fight a never ending algae battle. Get a TDS pen and check your tap, but I can guarantee it's not going to be 0.
What size is the tank?
Aquarium Lights – Aquarium LED Light 30W(±5%) Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W LED Chips for Coral Reef Nano Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3BYJHCJNFCBSMXMCBDSR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is a generally approved of and good light for cheap reef builds. But, depending on your tank size, you may need more than one.
Looks great! I would recommend one of these if either of them seem to like the nori: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027JF5I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HA16J8SR20ND8K00NSEJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1.
It’s a magnetic clip that’s way more durable than the one you have in there now. I went through the same thing recently and the holding power of that one drops off pretty fast.
I rlly don’t think that would be enough light. Corals require a good bit of light. I’m new to saltwater too, but have been keeping freshwater forever. I found myself in the same spot. I wanted AI prime lights but they are super expensive and for my tank, a 75 gallon, I’d most likely need 4-6 to grow corals. But what I did find is Nicrew has a light on amazon called the hyper reef and from what I’ve heard it is a very good beginner friendly coral light. Fairly inexpensive. I will be purchasing 2 150w lights for reference. I’d say for your tank 2 100w would work just fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083XYR64W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_705C2N9K0JXFK5K2HBWK
Did you search Australian Amazon? Not sure which specific brand you're talking about, but any kind of nitrifying bacteria will do.
I have this one for my nano (once a 7.5g cube now a 14g peninsula):
It has little compartments for each day so you can control exactly how much food is dispensed. I would put maybe 3-5 pellets in each compartment since I only have one small Clownfish, and it's worked well for me for 4-10 day trips multiple times a year.
These lenses on Amazon! If you have an iPhone 11 Pro Max the lenses fit good enough but could have better frames cut out for the 3 camera set up. But for 25$ it gets the job done AND it comes with a yellow filter and an orange filter. Here’s the Amazon link Aquarium Choice Coral Lens Filter Kits for Phone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L26R3RT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8EB0A2FKDTZ3R4ENPFHR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The answer is likely yes, you need one. What is the TDS of your tap water? If it's 0 or very close to 0, you may be okay without a RODI system, but that's not likely. You can pick up a TDS meter relatively cheaply. And don't worry about calcium, the salt mix you use will provide that.
It's a slow feeder cup. He's literally just pushing his way through a hole into the cup, eating all the food, then squeezing himself back out the hole.
I had one of these and it was very good, but I don't think they make them any more.
I had one of these but it lights unevenly (though I've seen it on a 20 tall and sort of worked.
I gave both lights to a friend when I upgraded and he uses them together on an 8gal cube.
My favorite lights are Kessils, but I can't afford them.
I got a $109 GalaxyHydro on amazon. I am very happy with it, but it's not a top-tier light.
Thanks, and yes. I suggest you make sure you get them from a source that has been started in salt water. Most of what's sold on ebay and online retailers has been grown in fresh water even if they say it hasnt. If you want PM me in a month or two when the props start dropping and I will send you some for just the cost of shipping. Obviously if youre near the beach collect some.
I dont like to get behind this product but they seem to grow well in miracle mud. Is there enough room to grow down there? You would be surprised how fast they grow under the right conditions. The root structure in my tree busted right through PVC. They like heavy light but you have to ramp them up. I suggest one of the grow pendants on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/KINGBO-Reflector-Spectrum-Seeding-Flowering/dp/B01LYBGVRG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497408726&sr=8-2&keywords=grow+led+panel
This one has grown them well in my experience. As they grow use anodized aluminum wire to make them grow in the direction you want (think bonsai). Think of their environment, they love light but they also get a lot of rain. I would hit them with a little water from a spray bottle once a week. I like to put a tiny amount of MG and iron in my bottle. There's methods of developing the cool root structure as well but this will at least get you started. You will be surprised how much they are capable of pulling out of your system once they get started.
$10 from Amazon. You can try out a bunch of the orange filters to find what works best with your camera/lights:
Rosco Rosco Lux Small Swatchbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ER2YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HsxmBbQG0RHXV
You'll be amazed at the difference it makes.
And for a cheap macro lens set for things that are close the the glass :
Rosco Rosco Lux Small Swatchbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ER2YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HsxmBbQG0RHXV
These are also great to have around for splinters!
I'm sure your $200 light works better but I bought this for $28 on amazon and it's growing chaeto extremely well. (note: this light is a few inches from where my chaeto grows)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVF6HXY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this light off amazon and applied with adhesive velcro like this. Works perfect
>I already have a very expensive RO system for my whole house
So what is the TDS of your tap water? Zero? If you're using it for a reef tank, it's highly recommended that it be 0. It's not likely that a whole house RO filter is doing that. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. If you're not sure, you can get a TDS meter to check pretty cheap. Well worth it to own one if you're going to make your own water.
Yup. Just hand bone clippers/cutters. Shouldn’t be more than 10-15$. This is the one I had and it works perfectly: Tamsco Cutter 4.5-Inch Heavy Duty for Hard Coral Stainless Steel Box Joint 4.5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HB4GEGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cb5FFbXH8NRZN
There are no good AND cheap lights, but for a tank that big the common budget light is a Chinese black box https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Control-Dimmable-Aquarium-Spectrum/dp/B07SHR6HW1/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=black+box+led&qid=1595283244&sr=8-4
It's also sold by many other brands. Same light just rebranded
Apparently the bottles are hit or miss and you need to use double or triple the amount reccomend. If it was a perfect world I would have only got like a damsel and introduced it with a bottle and had a few spares and hung onto them just in case things got out of hand. I definitely wouldn't have gotten nearly as many fish if my buddy didn't have room for them. I'm still kinda skeptical if it works in the long run. If everything except nitrates are 0 next week I will call it cycled. I have been tracking it every few hours and logging it in aquarium note. I will probably make another post next week or an edit to this one with a log of all my parameters throughout the venture for everyone to pick apart.
Great light for the price and could be a good fit for a 20gal
I decided to upgrade the heater on my tank. I ended up going with this Hygger Titanium heater. It had good reviews on amazon and all of the features I was looking for but I haven't seen this brand talked about anywhere else in the community. Does anyone have any experience with this brand?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HGXHX5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you have a cellphone with a decent camera, get a camera app that allows you to set a custom white balance and set it as high as possible (10,000k is the limit for most). Or use a filter like Gabriel mentioned.
If you have a DSLR with raw format you can also fix this in photoshop during post.
edit:
Be careful I run at 100% intensity heavy whites throughout the majority of the day.
Might be smart to run at a lower intensity to start off.
These are pretty small.
Aquarium Lights – Aquarium LED Light 30W(±5%) Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W/5W LED Chips for Coral Reef Nano Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SNB456PQDYMEAWS67H35
Ultra Quiet Fish Tank Filter 4-in-1 Internal Aquarium Filter,500-1800L/H Submersible Water Pump Oxygen Aeration Wave Maker Water Change for Betta, Turtle, Pond Fish, Garden. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RXVCW52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SB8YES333GHCSDWCVKSZ
This is what I have in there rn. I’m sure someone is gonna bite my head off over it, but I didn’t have anything else to catch particles. I got a refugium, yesterday. I’m currently looking for cheto (kay-toe). Yes, we can be friends. 😁
they merged with Bulk reef supply. Any of the ones they are selling that are 4 stage are equally good. If you like Amazon, AquaFX Barracuda is also good. Barracuda
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LP42WZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AK0HK6676RDC1CJ3DABB
it's that - I ordered the larger one too a few days ago and it just came in, so I just wanted to check to make sure it was the right move before I switch them out
So someone just helped me with this.
Use this amazon product to get rid of them. Follow directions.
https://www.amazon.com/Salifert-Flatworm-eXit-Aquarium-Treatment/dp/B001EJFKN8
He said "The instructions are quite complex. But from what I remember, you have to do a water change, remove carbon and leave the skimmer on. Siphon what you can out, wait the specified time and then add carbon."
https://www.amazon.com/Salifert-Flatworm-eXit-Aquarium-Treatment/dp/B001EJFKN8
Is this correct? Also, I am assuming it has directions on what to do, but it seems like you put x amount of drops in the tank near the pumps it runs it through all the water. You then siphon the sand to get rid of the dead ones and do a water change. Is this correct? Also, would this be harmful to any fish or coral?
I use a holder similar to this one with a 100 micron filter sock similar to this one. The drain end of my siphon vac gets wedged in the inner loop you see inside the bag's plastic ring to keep it in place while I work.
Something similar could work for you for the drain half. It's working out a decent return that's the trick. As I said, doing that will keep your tank from draining as you clean up everything.
As an aside, getting a mesh filter sock to use with the mount is also really handy if you need to add salt to your display. You just put the holder on the tank, mount the sock, and then add the salt to the sock. It'll dissolve over time and you don't risk the salt landing on stuff and shocking it.
For iron, I use Red Sea Reef Colors C Supplement.
Okay, that sounds good. FYI a lot of people don't use fish for cycling anymore because they consider it cruel to subject them to high ammonia levels (even though they can live through it). You can get ammonia specifically made for the purpose of cycling, like this. Just something to consider for next time.
Yeah, the over flow tube is to short. I just bought some new tubing on Amazon to replace it.
Untill you get a new tube, just raise it to the height you actually need. It's not like it will fill up fast.
DO NOT RUSH THE CYCLE!
I can't say this enough as I am 8 months into my first tank (Red Sea Max 250) and I am regretting hardcore not letting my tank cycle properly. Dealing with frustrating dinos right now probably because i rushed and didn't have the proper equipment to maintain it. Playing the catchup and quick fix game instead of proper cycling has cost me hundreds.
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I'm rocking a Fluval Evo as well. The AI Prime is certainly a much better light, but for 1/3 the price, this 30w light has worked pretty well for me. You'll need this timer too.
I have the same exact tank. I DIY-ed a sump for the bottom compartment. It was my first tank too so I’d recommend doing a lot of research before you make a sump especially because this one is not drilled through. I used an overflow (CPR CS102) and a return pump to transfer water too and from the sump system.
Also I found that this circular glass cleaner works WAY better on the curved glass:
KASAN Algae Scrapers Aquarium Glass Cleaner Magnetic Brush Suitable for Small Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZBGTHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JMFRC77JZPM11H1Y0X3Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Watch for them to start drifting (like they are floating in the current instead of swimming) or lying on the bottom. They open there mouths alot when they are sifting through the current for food too so the distinction would be mouth and gills opening and closing quickly together.
Go buy this. Since these are your first fish you'll want to have it on hand anyway even if they aren't infected.
Mine pulled through just fine and are happy and healthy now.
2 x 200W Eheim Jager heaters cost $60, external temperature controller for both of them Inkbird 306 $30. It has common for this type of devices sensitivity.
It’s fairly new, your live rock is likely still cycling. I would just keep doing your water changes maybe bump in to 25%. Just make sure it’s RO water tap water can have phosphates that lead to slime algae. I wouldn’t dump chemicals in just yet. IMO it’s just a young tank.
Julian spring has a great book (short read) on alge
Algae: A Problem Solver Guide (Oceanographic Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1883693020/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4SXKY0WN1JAM570G2F70
. He is referring to a different line of nicrew lights. Is the “kessil” like one and it’s 30w.
Their reef bright series comes in 30w,50w 100w and 150w version. They are dimmable also. The day light cycle controller for these is still in the works however.
My mom's the one that got the tank, she picked it up from Amazon and I'm tasked with figuring out what to do in it for the long term. She's decor, I'm set-up :) Here's the link for the tank, and there's actually a great picture of the sump without the bar in the way, and with stuff in it. At this moment I cant turn the hall light on cause of sleeping people, so hopefully that one helps out a bit more. For the lights... I didn't even think of that, so thanks for bringing it up! What do you think of the ones listed on this? There's no UV, so that'd have to be an add-on if I need it.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089J1MKLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_iMPbGb2TAF7D5?psc=1
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Okay, so a reef tank is probably a no-go in this one. I can live with that, and look at that for some future tank. Would a FWLR setup still work with its depth, without all the more shallow-water sorts of wigglers in there? I mean, worst case scenario I can still have a pretty baller freshwater tank, but with it being brand new and having the equipment that it has, I gotta see how close to the moon I can shoot, right? :)
Haven't had any tanks for years, but always had an interest in this myself. I found that this book was quite informative.
HIPARGERO LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W Cree Chips for Coral Reef Fish Nano Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_pkC-Fb7D9KBBX is this what you’re talking about?
I looked at the MP10 for a long time, but went with these instead and couldn't be happier - Jebao SLW-10
Those MP10's are pretty pricey, and when I asked myself "am I getting $200 extra out of the MP10 vs jebao's" the answer was a resounding no. Especially once I got the ecotech versa and got to experience the mobius app. Mobius still needs a lot of work. Ive been running the jebao's on my 32 biocube for a year now without issue. I have 3 of them, but only 2 in the tank at a time (extra one to cycle out one for cleaning). For a 16 cube, you probably only would need one. Save the money to upgrade the lights (ReefiUno might strike your fancy), and get a new lid (I suggest looking into Octolids).
I love accessorizing my cube too :) I've tried a lot of products at this point.
random flow is good flow ;) if you don't like the look, there's one by innovative marine that looks a little more "stock" - https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Marine-Stream-Universal-Nozzle/dp/B006KRI2DO/
Oddly the fish love the rotating head just as much as the corals.
The LED strip off of amazon would be good for this. I'll post the link in a second. They are cheap, come with a remote control to ramp up/down and can be cut to length. Also have 3M tape on the back so you could just stick it to your lights. Also they're water proof.
Link: SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Flexible LED Strip Light Lamp Kit + 44Key IR Remote Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zpZivb0EK74HG
I did but part of the reason I'm doing this is I got a 70 dollar credit on Amazon, so I'm trying to use that to offset my cost and I couldn't find high enough wattage T5 lights on there to justify it. Unless you have a link for me (has to be 24")
Edit: Would this work instead?
Aquaforest Reef Salt, 25 kg at $69.99 on amazon?
Nah I'm good, this seems like a gamble with a sketchy newly built website, a decent company would've put a little more effort into a business name than "4aquarium" the site is nothing but generic ebay/no-name products...
As someone mentioned below it was "free" but had $5.50 shipping...
Here is the same product for $3.92 plus free shipping on Amazon.
It has this high quality about us section..."The 4aquarium.com shop was created to help people to get a aquarium stuff easiest way."
I've read a lot of great reef keeping books and am glad to help you out. I think it's really pretty naive for lots of reefer to solely rely on forum and youtube video advice for this kind of things. Books are written by professionals in the hobby and in marine biology. Thanks for looking into books!
Here is the best book on coral specifically that i Know: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1890087475/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Go down the page on amazon and look at the other recommended books and just pick some with lots of good reviews and written fairly recently. Like past 15 years max.
It's funny that you mention dissolving chalk using co2...this is exactly how a calcium reactor works except the media is dead coral skeletons rather than chalk (still calcium carbonate though).
I have this refractometer from amazon and it's great - definitely needs to be calibrated frequently though. Order the 35ppt calibration fluid from BRS and it will last you years.
In another comment you mentioned changing a gallon of water every 3 weeks...do you use ro/di to mix your saltwater? Make sure you do, and consider doing more frequent water changes than that, a gallon per week would still be very easy and should let you pretty much avoid having to dose anything like alk. With a 5 gallon tank, evaporation can be a big issue and cause big swings in salinity and other parameters. Make sure you're topping off daily, or invest in an inexpensive ATO like the hydrofill TI + toms aqualifter pump and a 1 gallon bucket (under $100), again the water you use to top off should be ro/di.
Feel free to take a photo of the tank with the lights on and post it here, I should be able to tell you what corals you've got. Also be prepared for that clownfish to outgrow a 5g tank...once that happens trade him in to the LFS for a smaller one, or get a bigger tank ;)
Not sure if this is the same one, but I've been considering this one from Amazon. Finnex External Refugium Breeder Hang-On Box, Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJEAJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ar0bAbBAQVCJE
I get it man, it is funny, but a bit of an exaggeration, no? Probably about 500 calibration worth of fluid for $10 Amazon Prime. That would be 2 cents per calibration btw.
If you can spend a bit, a black box LED from amazon will grow any light demanding coral you want, given you give it the water parameters it needs. They go by many different brands but look similar, try to find one that is dimmable and even programable or wifi/bluetooth enabled.
Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Timer-165W-Aquarium-Dimmable/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522467621&sr=8-1&keywords=reef+led+wifi
I also highly suggest not using a canister for a reef. While it is doable, it can become more work than you bargain for.
AquaMaxx Long Cuboid 9.1 gallons. Keep softies in there that can grow under 2 cheap amazon lights like this one. Maybe bare bottom.
That is the seller than I got mine from. If you dont need lights right away, i would wait for Bloomspect official store to list their on ebay again. They actually had 2 of them for less than $200 including shipping. If you need them now, get them from Amazon, as they have them for $98 each https://www.amazon.com/BLOOMSPECT-Aquarium-Control-Spectrum-CoralReef/dp/B06XS3YMSJ
Thank for the link, but I got one on Amazon for less than $8 that does the same thing. I use it to make sure my auto shut off shuts off water flow when I'm filling buckets with RODI overnight.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062B4570/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This might end up being an unpopular opinion, but if you're doing a LPS tank the Orbit Marine LED series by Current USA is a good option. I switched over to it from a basic Aqueon LED (which was useless), and my corals are doing great now. They're fairly cheap, and come with full customization as far as color spectrum and time controls.
To be fair, this is just my first saltwater tank, but I'd say a noticeable boost in coral growth less than a month after switching lights says something about the new light system.
Here's a link to the light I got on Amazon, they come in a bunch of different sizes: https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-36-Inch/dp/B00GFTNG3S
Sure! The reactor itself is a Aquatop MR-30 which I bought used for $20. Its powered by an Aquatop SWP-1300 pump. The lights are from Amazon. Here’s the link .
whoops forgot to mention that. its from amazon. link below
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727V8C5Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Macro Aqua M-50 Mini Hang-on External Protein Skimmer, 60 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01597SD8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98LKFbN914WY1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this one and it’s works great! Honestly doesn’t make any noise, just have to break it in and micro bubbles will eventually go away.
Honestly if you're looking for cheap two of these 425g/hr would probably do it. I've run these for quite a while. However you should def plan to upgrade.
Assumption: the sock compartment on my red sea reefer is the same size as on your nano
Red sea sells filter cups and they actually come with a little media bag as well. See here.
You can add a known concentration of ammonia, like this, monitor the spike and drop of ammonia and nitrite, and if it's all processed in about a day, you are cycled.
To be honest I do not know of the system you’re describing.The point of using ro/di water is to minimize TDS ( total dissolved solids ) in the water, so testing ammonia / nitrate doesn’t test that. Things like fluoride and chlorine and other things used to treat water are not good for your animals. That being said if the filter removes those you should be fine , you can always buy a tds meter really cheap online to make sure.
This is a good primer. Not sure what the library situation is by you but see if you can check it out before buying it.
The Complete Illustrated Breeder's Guide to Marine Aquarium Fishes https://www.amazon.com/dp/1890087718/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pGjpFbVZTVHH5
Really step one is doing greenwater/algea culturing you can setup with some soda bottles and airpump and grow light pretty easily, rotifers arent much harder and can be done the same way, though i have my rotifer cultures in little 5 gallon aquariums because they are cheap to free to find and easy to clean. You also want to be prepared to do decap brine shrimp if you get them far enough along. Beyond feeding them properly the other trick is capturing the fry, if you can take what they are on out and place it in the nursery tank that is easiest, if not you want to look into making/buying a fry collector, i really like the one vossen aquatics designed, you could make your own if you are handy with acrylic and a hairdryer. One of my friends that breeds clowns commercially uses terra cotta pots cut in half for his breeding pairs on a tile, they either lay on the pot or tile and its easily removed to a grow out tank.
You likely put a fair bit of copper into the water this way. Inverts, like zoas, do not like copper one bit. You need to go to your LFS and get some cuprisorb and polyfilters as soon as possible.
Ok so for the ATO i recenly bought [this] FZONE Triple Sensors Aquarium Auto TOP Off Water Refiller System Smart ATO Auto Filling Tank with Intelligent SPT Algorithm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083JG8HWT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AJtgFbQ8VZFWZ
It might be overkill for a smaller tank but nevada is pretty dry. Im near florida and its incredibly humid here.
Yeah jeez i love the hitchhikers too, the starfish are soo cute, a few years ago i was exited for my aptasia.
Ok for fuge i would probably bore you to death with my suggestions because i love them soo much. I have two in my 70g sump for my 150g
I suggest a deep sand bed, i put fine mud in first and then a deep sand bed. This helps all kinds of things; the best anerobic bacteria, the ability to mass produce copepods which are free fish food among many other things, and the ability to keep all the kinda of macro algae you would want. I currently have 4 mangroves and about 3 other types of macroalgae. Chaeato is the best for non sand or any substrate and great all around. If you decide to get a lot of different types just do research because some need water flow but also deep roots.
I just realized you said mini fuge but i think what i said still stands. Anyway ironically i use an old 30g reeftank Light for my mangrove fuge and simply some fairly cheap “growing” lights i got from home depot, i hung two of them over the smaller fuge and put plastic cups over them so they would point all their light down. So far they have produced sooooo much chaeto that i have to throw a walmart bag full of it away at least once a week
I think it shows you dont need a fancy grow light. Its algae after all and if you have nitrates it will grow!
Id be interested to know what you go with!
Unfortunately the lighting system I used is no longer sold on Amazon. It was a few years ago but it kind of looks like this one https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Universal-Fixture-Hanger-Hybrid/dp/B07DMRMSXF
I have my tank in a finished basement with dropped ceilings, so while this light includes a hanging kit, my ceiling was not strong enough to support it. Basically all it is are two clamps on the side of the tank connected to a bracket that a pipe would fit in. This pipe goes up a foot or two and connects via a L bracket to another pipe which runs across the top of the tank to the other side. You could DIY it easy if you are somewhat handy.
When you use a RODI unit to "make" water for a saltwater tank, the final output should be 0 TDS. You can get a TDS Meter from Amazon for pretty cheap to check. If it's super high, it may be an issue for just fish.
I use these. They're great.
Apologies for long link, bloody amazon, but give one of these a go, you can melt the mysis in a bit of tank water and suction it up in this, you can then deliver it damn near one at a time.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dyhwang.aquariumnote
Keep daily track of all your levels, dosing regiment, and when and what livestock you add.
It has built in color matching for tests, dosing calculators, and water/sand displacement levels.
Best part? 100% free!
You'll never need another app for Reef keeping! :)
Hi there - Appears that the site has gone down - Great timing I know! We aim to get it back up in the next couple of hours. Sorry about that - Heres a direct link to the app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fishbyte.aquariummanager&hl=en_GB
I did this overflow box on my nano tank. It came with everything i needed and i was super impressed with it.
Ah, okay. Yes, you need to add bacteria, a product like this.
Depending what the powerhead is, you can sometimes find 3d printed anemone guards on places like ebay, etsy, facebook market, etc. That'll be your best bet for a quality solution.
If you can't find one for your pump, getting a sheet of aquarium foam like this and then zip tying it in place can work. You want the coarsest, most open sponge you can find so as to minimize water flow restriction.
I can't get in Fluval's website on this tablet. So here's an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=asc_df_B005QRDCP2?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745437134303&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid...
I believe, and will use, the 3-chamber one. It's driven by an air pump and hangs on the outside of the tank, with a return flute/shute.
Refugiums are most often 3-chambers/sections. Do a quick research if you're unfamiliar with them.