HOWEVER the very top one is Breeding Season a NSFW Furry farmville fuck game. So maybe I need to try a new approach to my reviews.
This is the one I got for my 700s and works great and doesn't break the bank
You had me until you said
>What's a good go-to that doesn't sound like shit?
That's not how cables work. They are made from the same material, I doubt you'll be able to hear a difference unless one is defective.
That being said, I love this cable because it is rugged.
I have a similar pair on my desk for my Micca active speakers. Bought them last November. They’re great and the price was right!
These. or upgrade to the 700x.
Hearing a difference between lossless (FLAC in this case) and 320Kbps is incredibly difficult if not downright impossible. I guess it might be possible if one has excellent hearing, has the right audio equipment, and uses the right track, but that would be an extremely rare case.
Anyone can test using foobar2000 and its ABX component:
A YouTube video how to do it:
Also, as far as MP3 is concerned, LAME's V0 and V2 are in my opinion the two most useful encoding presets. I consider CBR320 to be a huge overkill and a waste of space. Either actually compress by using at least V0 or even V2, or don't compress at all, and keep it lossless.
Essentially, pick an amp and a set of speakers from Zeos' recommended list: https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/4yd60f/guide_stereo_20_deskroom_setups_for_musicgaming/
Note that you can potentially save money on the amp if you're willing to dive into the slightly dodgier world of Aliexpress instead of Amazon. For example, this $39 amp appears to be the same as the SMSL SA-50 which is $70-80 on Amazon.
Only other thing you need is speaker cable. Any $12 roll of speaker cable from Amazon or even copper lamp cord from Wal-Mart will work fine. If you are going over 10ft you might want to make sure it's pure copper and not copper-clad aluminum.
1MORE Stylish True Wireless Earbuds, Bluetooth 5.0, 24-Hour Playtime, Stereo In-Ear Headphones with Charging Case, Built-in Microphone, Alternate Pairing Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6LP3F9/
These guys I got (luckily for 10 bucks) but are well worth the $45. They surprised the hell out of me, the only iems (wired) I had to compare them to were my starfields and these guys are darn close to that and wireless. They also have a large sound stage the my Sennheiser HD599SE. The battery life on them is pretty good, and for comfort I put in some dekoni tips and can wear them for hours without fatigue.
I'd get something like this:
This will convert the usb signal into an optical one that then goes to your x8 and in the process gets rid of the noise from usb
Check out Fluance SX6W , I love mine. I will run these until they die. $149.99 on amazon.
Amazon.com: Fluance SX6W High Definition Two-Way Bookshelf Loudspeakers - Natural Walnut: Electronics
The stock pads aren't terrible for about an hour. After that you will start to feel the pressure of them. I switched them out and it really helped comfort. I got the Brainwavz angled memory foam pads for $30 on amazon.
I wear my m40x for gaming, music, etc. I love em.
Ok I see your reply to the other guy. The only output port that is important for you here is the one that says "Line-out". Your motherboard has surround sound support, and that's what the RS-Out, CS-Out, and SS-Out are for.
The cable you have is not the correct cable to connect to the speakers, unfortunately. You need a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6 to properly connect. You might be able to get by with a splitter if you have one handy but it is not a good solution.
Right now you are using two 3.5mm to 1/4" TRS cables, when you should only be using one 3.5mm to left/right 1/4" TRS cable, similar to the one linked above. When you get the right cable, plug the 3.5mm (small) side in to the Line-out from your motherboard and the respective left / right ends into the left / right speakers.
Most pro-audio stores will have these cables if you don't want to wait for amazon. I got mine from Guitar Center. I recommend getting cables only as long as you need to avoid electrical interference from your computer.
Let me know if you need any help. I use and love the LSR305s, you should be pleased with what you got.
If that would be for just portability it would be ok for the use case. Personally, I wouldn't want to worry about a battery, so I'd choose a solid state unit connected to a wall wart. I'm imagining that you do some gaming on the PC, if so id look into one of these. The unit is currently going for 38.99USD on amazon. You can plug a stand alone mic into the unit. Should run most easy to drive dynamics fairly well, def not T50rps...
Amps DONT delay sound*, you would see delay in sound more in bluetooth headphones watching videos on youtube etc.
*from my experience with my amp/dac there has been no delay in sound when watching videos or video gaming. using schiit stack v2.
I would have to agree with what the others have said and just between those 2 I would go with the 58x but of you can try and save up for the 6xx fr drop you won't be disappointed and I have a really good but also fairly priced DAC/amp combo which I would say is like low to mid range on the the quality of equipment spectrum no where near the quality of a like a stack persay but still good enough to drive my HiFi man sundara if your interested have a look. ifi Zen DAC
I got their entire discography off RuTor, in 320kbps MP3. Woud have liked FLAC but I'm running out of storage. Already got 1TB of anime and about the same in music. Here you go have fun.
These honestly sound amazing. Or models similar to them.
I had the same issue and this worked for me. No more buzzing. That being said it doesn't solve the issue for everyone. Friend of mine still has a noise problem with it installed.
I use these
Brainwavz Angled Memory Foam Earpad - Suitable for Large Over The Ear Headphones - AKG, HifiMan, ATH, Philips, Fostex https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G567THO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K7M808QHB0ERDGDZ1FNT?psc=1
They are really comfortable, and to me i don’t really notice a difference besides more noise isolation
SAMDI Leather Headphone Stand Headset Stand Headphone Holder Universal Gaming Headset Holder - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQC73FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4RHEGZ9395K00MS0KK38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The first headphones that came to mind is the AKG K712 Pro. It literally checks every box among your requirements. It is the absolute king of soundstage and imaging, with accurate (but never overdone) bass. Read some of the thousands of reviews on Amazon for more inspiration:
Alternatively you could stick with Hifiman and opt for the Sundara. Out of the box it is on the bright side, but you can EQ it to match your idea of perfection. Check out oratory1990 here on Reddit and Audio Science Review for ideas:
Good luck and please keep us posted.
PS - Thanks for the detailed post. Makes it easy and enjoyable to try and help.
u/jjcooke I don't have a fixed budget but I want to make a smart choice... Not easy though..
I realised the V-MODA BoomPro is not compatible with the HD 660S, so I investigated mod mic such as this one but I'm not sure if I really want this. A desk mic might be just good enough. I always had gaming headsets so changing to a mic desk is just a new mindset that I'm willing to try.
So, this leaves me with the 660S and AMP. I want the best audio for spacial and laser point imaging quality. 660S seems to deliver this while not sacrificing too much (accordingly to the reviews). u/jjcooke Why do you think I shouldn't get the 660S?
Regarding the AMP I'm a bit lost.. I do have the Astro TR one but... should I just sell it and get a better one?
u/Skystalker512 I'm going to investigate the PC38X and the DT880. Thanks!
Good call, give a shout out when you get them, always love compairing experiences.
This is a nice upgrade to the comfort btw, these are large enough to not touch my ears at all.
this one, specifically, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TLL3NK3
it is the one i use daily, and it is wonderful. The jabra app is amazing, allows passthrough audio and can even set up gps location of your earbuds (from when they last disconnected)... the app is worth it on its own imo.
their warranty service is top notch too
It's similar to the Yinyoo, but 16-core and $20.
Balanced means that each driver has its' own ground wire. A fully balanced system will have a ground wire for each channel from the headphones/IEMs, through the amp, all the way back to the dac. This way of doing things allows for a bit more power delivery and possibly a bit less cross-talk. With a 3.5 mm jack, both drivers share a ground wire. Some will argue that with a good enough single-ended (unbalanced) amp, you can still make enough power and cross-talk would still be below the range of human hearing (like the Topping NX4 DSD). If your amp features balanced output, it usually measures better than the single-ended on the same unit (like the Fiio BTR5). IEMs don't need much power, just clean power, so even if it makes a difference it won't be much in your case. You may find a lower noise floor on balanced, but you might also lose volume control because it's overpowered. Depends on the IEMs.
FAAEAL Conductor Earphone Impedance Plug 80 220 ohm Noise Cancelling Adapter 3.5mm Jack Professional Reduce Noise Filter Plug (80 Ohm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMG8144/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_TetUFbXJX7YX1
The mic input is usually what separate dac+amp combos from devices marketed as external sound cards. I doubt you'll be able to find something with better internal than the X7. If you want better internals for the same price you'll have to get seperate components for everything.
If you're serious about the mic you'll want to get an audio interface with phantom power for an XLR mic. Everything I know about the subject is from this video. If you're not that serious, and for whatever reason your onboard mic jack sucks/unusable, something like this would do.
For the rest you're basically describing a home theater reciever or a stereo reciever like others have mentioned. The only problem is the headphone jacks usually don't sound very good. The only exception I personally know of is my Harmon Kardon BDS280. Read my Amazon review for reasons I don't recommend it, but it does make my headphones sound slightly better than anything else I have.
For that budget you could get the Aune X1S, then have it feed the signal into a speaker amp like the SMSL SA50. The Micca Origen can do the same thing, but unlike the X1S it can only do USB in (the X1S can do optical in too).
ditch the origen, you can get a G5 for $112.50 and free shipping. Good dac, good amp, good mic input. You need to use the coupon code LABOR25 at checkout
EDIT: nevermind you can get it on amazon for $96 ! https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A
SMSL M3 if you need a S/Pidf in. 80 bucks on Amazon
Actually, the SMSL SD 793ii is on Massdrop right now for 57.99 Link I would probably buy this.
I've got the FiiO E17K which can currently be found at $100 @ amazon.
It's great for my needs. I mostly use it with the desktop at work and with my Asus Transformer everywhere else. With the Transformer I usually deactivate the charging function so the DAC won't drain the laptop battery. As for headphones, I have the ATH-MSR7.
I don't really like using it with my phone as I find it quite uncomfortable to carry around both the phone and the DAC/AMP. And this is regardless of the size of it, it's just having two things with me... Meh, don't like. And the phone output from my Nexus 5 is more than decent (that's also because my headphones are very easy to drive, only 35ohm).
What I really like about this DAC/AMP is that it has a small equalization thingie (not like most of the devices which usually just have a bass boost switch). It provides +/- 10db of bass and treble in steps of 2db. For some reason, tweaking the EQ from the DAC instead of the PC player sounds better (maybe I'm just bad at EQ-ing). It also has two gain steps +6db and +12db. The overall build quality is great in my opinion. Only the volume scroll feels strange sometimes but I don't really use it much anyway.
Now, you didn't say much about your needs so I don't know if this fits your headphones requirements but it's an option. I also don't say you should buy this. Read around, see what's available and if you have the chance go somewhere and test some devices. You might like something else about a portable DAC/AMP.
In short: no impact due to the "missing" 10w.
I don't want to depress you, but the wattage numbers are pretty meaningless (i.e. there is no standard for measuring it). Most combinations of speakers and amps will (sorta) work, but ideally you should avoid too big a discrepancy between the two numbers.
My advice would be to research which amps complement the speakers you have in mind.
^(Most questions normally focus on the "synergy" between a specific amp and speakers, i.e. combining a "bright" amp with "bright speakers" will results in bleeding ears due to too much treble. You would then look to tame the "bright" speakers with a "warm" amp to achieve aural nirvana :-p)
And dude, RELAX!!!
This is a pretty big investment that could last you a lifetime. I know the feeling of wanting something YESTERDAY and I've made some pretty bad decisions while in a hurry. If possible, take your time.
PS - I just went and checked out your existing setup on Amazon. 2,000 plus reviews for an average of 4.5 stars??? That is a pretty decent setup you've got there. You can spend loads more money for a minimal improvement in actual audio quality. What exactly is it that you hope to achieve with the upgrade? ^(Personally I'd just get a nice little tube amp and get intimate with the HD650.)
Is there anywhere to get that Syba Sonic amp closer to its original $37 cost? Looks like $50-$65 on Amazon and a few are much wilder ($100+).
Was able to find a similar sounding Amp/Dac from the same company that is much cheaper but on paper sounds like the same in capability, not sure if that's the case though:
I haven't used the HD599 so unfortunately I can't give you a comparison, but I own the TYGR 300R's and needed an amp. I have a MSI Gaming Plus x570 which has Realtek ALC1220 on-board sound and claims it can handle up to 600ohm. Some stuff was loud enough but some stuff was too quiet and clearly not hitting the proper notes. Since getting a Schiit Heresy amp the difference is night and day. The headphones sound great and I planned to buy an amp at some point regardless, but it does add to the cost if you also have power issues.
You may have a different experience and be able to drive them fine but if you need an amp that's another $40+.
Also if you aren't in a rush, the HD599's went on sale last year for $99 during the holidays on several occasions.
I work at a university in an AV setting, and recently was recording an audiology conference where they were talking about helping people find relief from tinnitus. They said one of the best new sources are phone apps that you can get for either iOS/Android that produce "sound therapy" (different types of white noise that will cancel out the tinnitus.) The app they were talking about was the Beltone Tinnitus Calmer (iOS/Android,) but there are others. Beltone makes hearing aids, so that's why they were recommending that particular app.
Mostly for just amplifying
I can really recommend the ifi ZenDac though. It's 199€ without sale, but it's a great DAC/Amp. Easy to use, even has a balanced out and can be used solely as a DAC or pre-AMP if you ever get a solo AMP. They can easily drive 250 Ohm Beyerdynamics, kinda do it for the 600 but not really and the Bass booster function is awesome if you are into bass. Easily a thing you buy and then you can leave the market for as long as it works if you don't go crazy.
I have one of these:
May not be best sounding mixer but very convenient because it uses 3.5mm inputs and output.
Update on K553 pad situation. Got these ones from the Amazeon and they are nearly identical to stock. Very minimal impact to sound tonality as they are the same thickness and size:
I did find a solution actually. Buy a usb-to-optical converter. I have a smsl dongle for it and it works well. You'll need a spdif cable to pass through the optical signal. If your motherboard has a spdif output already, just use that. Make sure to flip the switch in the back to spdif, and use USB as power only.
My motherboard doesn't have optical (spdif) so I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W5SBK9R/
Do you have usb or usb-c ports available on your PC? That's usually the simplest solution for PC audio. Just use an adaptor like this for one of your outputs. And a connector like this for your rca inputs.
Cheapest optical dac I've seen. Won't vouch for quality, but it might do in a pinch.
Could you just put a 3.5 splitter on the back of the PC?
Here is the one that I found previously.
Here I found another one that might be even better
How about this one
RMT-D197A Remote Control Replace fit for Sony DVD Player DVPSR201P DVPSR210P DVPSR405P DVPSR510H DVP-SR310P DVP-SR320 RMTD197A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXTV40/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CWMWDJW12J5VWH5SHERR
They are not going to rattle off unless they are really light or you have kids pulling on the wires. I went with these WALI Dual Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Wall Mounting Bracket for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers, Hold Up to 66 lbs. (SWM201XL), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RGGSGXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QJA8G5BARS3BHM7SY7YK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They get the speaker away from the wall a bit and can adjust direction and angle and are very sturdy. Depends on the look you want tho. Rubber feet should be enough to keep it from shifting on wood but get sealed or front ported if you are putting them right on the wall
If the shelf is deep enough and you have sufficient mounting hardware for the weight of the speakers it should be fine. I’m not familiar with the d100s, but they appear to be rear ported and that will definitely be suboptimal with them that close to a wall as they’re likely designed to be 10-12” or more from anything (the further the better for accuracy). You’ll also likely have some nasty vibration transfer from the shelf to your wall if you don’t mount to a stud (and even then it will still transfer some as well as the excess bass from the port near the wall). Using a large subwoofer with a very high crossover frequency to send most of your lows away from the mains would be another option, but it’s probably not worth it and if you’re set on optimal quality with wall mounting I’d recommend a speaker intended to be used that way or a front ported one mounted how you’re describing if that’s your optimal mounting method.
Additionally, if your speakers fit in something like this bracket then that may be another option:
VideoSecu One Pair of Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Bracket with Swivel and Tilt for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers MS56B 3LH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RFPZXGGCF0ZMCT2RSQF6
It depends on the speakers you select. Looking thru the specs, the Sony A90J has the following outputs:
1 x TOSLINK Optical (Digital Audio) (Bottom)
1 x 1/8" / 3.5 mm (Headphone) (Side)
If you go with the Kanto, you can probably just connect optical from tv straight to the speakers, no DAC required.
With the audioengine, you may be able to use either the headphone out from tv to the Kanto, a headphone to rca splitter, or (If you want to avoid using the TV's DAC) use an optical to rca external DAC. Something like this
Something you may need to look into: I don't see a remote control for the audioengine speakers, based on my limited research. Just something to keep in mind.
The balanced cable arrived … and in one direction it works with Qudelix and KPH40!
Ablet HiFi Cable with 2.5 mm TRS Balanced Plug for Sennheiser HD598 / HD558 / HD518 / HD598 Cs / HD599 / HD569 / HD579 Headphones & Astell&Kern AK240 AK380 AK320 onkyo DP-X1 FI. IO X5III. XDP-300R https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07M7G342B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RBKBS50018G37WEVKMAT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The end with the spring has to go to the amp…
USB C DAC OTG Cable 0.5ft/15cm for iPhone/iPad/iPod Oxygen-free Copper Core, iOS15 to Type C Male Adaptor for Amplifier, Fiio BTR 5 Q3S BTR3K, qudelix 5k, xd-05 Plus, HIDIZS S9 PRO, Shanling UA2 13Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KLXYQDH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DMHZMAZ450C42A28FRKX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I use!
Micca OriGen G2 High Resolution USB DAC and Preamplifier - 24-Bit/192kHz PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N4DG6EQ9ZNE43VJMMC4W
I’m referring to that, the 3.5mm line out functions as either analog out or as optical out using a cable like this:
FosPower (3 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JKJEMWTJ1K6ATVP6H0SK
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B01LXV4O6B&psc=1 Is this the one you're referring to? I notice it has a switch for the SPDIF or USB to Digital or Analog? The back of it says Optical In, and I'm pretty sure I need Optical Out to power my speakers.
As mentioned before, USB-DAC, hdmi to spdif splitter, and a PCI card with SPDIF output, I remember asus having that specific module that goes to specific motherboard pins, not sure about MSI. check your motherboard specs.
SMSL is making one now that's cheaper.
I'm trying the Tribit stormbox on sale, seems like that high value unit I want, we'll see if it lives up.
If this wasn't a shower dedicated speaker I may invest more. I'm also wondering about the Milwaukee-tools radio options since I'm already using their battery ecosystem... not sure what a tool company knows about good sound tho lol.
I found this one on Amazon USA (.com) ... https://www.amazon.com/MITER-Gryphon-Handmade-Artificial-Leather/dp/B09Q6C3M2S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=36918LXWB7OV0&keywords=ifi+gryphon+case&qid=1646463843&sprefix=ifi+gryphon+case%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-2
...Was that the one...
Fosi Audio Q4 DAC/AMP
Has bass and treble adjustment for slight EQ, decent DAC and amp combo.
Airy and light in both build and signiture. Use the rest of your budget to get some brainwayvz* xl pads. I recommend hybrid.
Just leave it plugged in and on and it'll be a pick up and go.
Big. Knob. it's passive... you could build a system around this, keep the kenwood, put it on the floor/out of the way, for speakers only. Then buy any dedicated headphone amp.
I feel like you're asking a lot... small form factor, affordable, powers speakers and headphones, sounds good, intuitive....
Gator Frameworks Studio Monitor stands!
Gator Frameworks Desktop Clamp-On Studio Monitor and Speaker Stand - Set of 2 (GFWSPKSTMNDSKCMP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084HPVQBK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_PENW96A66W9VR8EK3GF6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have an older Corsair SP-2500 2.1 channel system and it has mini bookshelf speakers. The sub is huge and sits under the desk, and the desk which I bought off amazon for its size, is the Arozzi Arena Gaming Desk I picked it out because it's over 5ft wide and like 2ft deep. The Left and Right speakers sit to the sides of the 32" monitor and the 4k monitor sits high enough so it doesn't block the sound from the left speaker. Kind of a "special" setup but I basically had random stuff I got for free that I threw together and made work.
I like memory foam. They mold to my ear the best. These are what I use:
Dekoni Audio Moldable Foam Ear Tips Premium Memory Foam Isolation Earphone Tips - 4.9mm 3 Pack SM MED Lrg Sample Pack Black (EPZ-Mercury-PL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0SGE1S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_P5B10BYW4REHSNJNF6FR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not super familiar with audio interfaces/mixers but what is your need for balancing mic/game audio? If you're recording through OBS then you can seperate the tracks and edit in post. Is your mic XLR or non-usb?
I use this mic:
which has a gain(/sensitivity?) knob, monitoring 3.5mm jack on the back, and a pop filter. It's USB (type A or type C).
Cable Boom Microphone - Volume Control for Playstation PS4 or Xbox One Controller, PC - Boompro Gaming Mic Compatible with Bose QC25, QC35 II, QC35, QuietComfort 25/35 Headphones(150CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3W9LHV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WQ0ZP5TG1SCTPYCT2AYT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These because they fit the 2.5 mm
In that price range I'd go for the Denon PMA 600NE
Can be used a Streamer/Dac/Amp and has a subwoofer out.
Yamaha AS301 is also a pretty good option.
Both pair well with klipsch. I've been using a Marantz NR1200 for the Hdmi and preouts for my rotel amp. I believe its a bit out of your price range tho. Good luck and have fun man, they're great speakers!
micca Origen g2 is a usb powered DAC/amp with optical input AND output. No bass boost just a gain boost though.
I have the razer seiren mini with a simple arm like this. I can put it away when I don't use it and it's not as much in your face as a full arm when I do use it. Also never had any problems with background noises.
1/4 TS to Banana Plug Speaker Cable,6.35mm TS to Banana Plug Speaker Audio Cable,Gold-Plated 1/4 TS Male to Dual Banana Plugs OFC HiFi Speaker Wire for DJ Application, Mixer (5 Feet)-12AWG Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086J6YMYZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TVEBHJSB7P749ADNDZRH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Tried USB as well. :(
I'm using these Micca cables. They're really nice for the money.
Did you make sure to set your AD18 output to speakers? And you'd input is selected correct too (Bluetooth etc)?
I just have mine plugged into the back of my board. If you need the extra omph without spending too much, the apple USB-c to 3.5mm does a surprisingly good job. If you get this ( SENNHEISER PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8BZ0C4AJWADG7WTFC2SR ) you can plug it into the adapter and the mic will work with it as well.
Haha I know. There is also a white version (but it's more expansive): http://www.gearbest.com/headsets/pp_263950.html
However I think they have potential. 50mm drivers, 3 earpad sets, decent frequency response range. But they are so unpopular I couldn't find any reliable reviews -_-
I'm using Windows, so I'm using Equalizer APO to apply the DSP corrections. You can download it from that link. While installing it, the Configurator will pop up. Check the box for your default playback device, finish installation, and restart your computer.
So now Equalizer APO is already applying its magic, using a default DSP configuration. To change that, open Fluance_SX6.txt from noaudiophile. Copy the contents and paste it to config.txt located in either Program Files or Program Files (x86) > EqualizerAPO > config. Save config.txt and voila! You're done!
If you're using the Fluance SX6s with a subwoofer, noaudiophile recommends disabling some of the filters. You can delete the lines that start with Filter 9, Filter 10, Filter 11 in config.txt.
Came across the deal over on Slickdeals. Had to pull the trigger on a pair.
I concur. I live mine. I also bought some spinfit tips and these gaskets under them:
uxcell Silicone O-Rings, 4mm Inner Diameter, 8mm OD, 2mm Width, Seal Gasket 30pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5WL55G/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_ORtdHQrltM3kk
Drop.com has them for $25 right now.
Thank you very much, I'm starting to get it :)
so I need to get how many RCA splitters I need? gonna use those, that's good enough? link
DAC to which port of the NAD, same question for the tubes.
It looks like a generic watch box from Amazon that he removed the inserts you put your watches around in each space. Not sure if the exact model but I have one just like it to store watches.
Something like this
SONGMICS 20 Watch Box Mens Lockable Organizer Black Display Case with Glass Top UJWB301 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UL1DO4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5VKQ0233RFF2DWYSKT59
The FX-Audio DAC-X6 is a good starter amp-dac.$64. Optical,USB and coaxial inputs.Enough power for most headphones.Mine has lasted for over 3 years.https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07TW2JQNN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=BOFGK9N3RBBJ&keywords=fx+audio+dac-x6&qid=1636817022&sprefix=fx+au%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNDkzSlBGNVg4U1JCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQwNTY3M0JHUTlDUTcwUDNMQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDc5MTcxMTNXNlo2RzNQUkdHOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I also noticed you can get them from Jet.com for 78.91 if you use the first time customer code NEWTOJET.
SMSL sAp-9. At $104.99 it looks interesting for a fully balanced amp. Not super powerful, but should be able to drive most headphones.
it's on Newegg for $87 with fee shipping (8-15 days) directly from China.
There's a rainmeter skin that switches headphone output and speaker output. If you use iTunes you have to set "Play Audio using" to Direct sound which is in edit>preferences>playback. Links to Rainmeter and skin
EDIT: I figured out the issue. The MP3s were VBR (Variable Bitrate), but they didn't have the proper VBR Header Tags. Fixed by checking the files with MP3 Diags which confirmed the files were missing the header tags and then repairing them with VBRFix.
Pic is one of the more extreme cases. Most are only slightly off, but still wrong nonetheless. Some are shorter than the correct times and will just sit at the shown end time while continuing to the actual duration. Some are longer and will have a wall of silence at the end.
The durations shows correctly on my computer. Pulled 'em up on Windows Media Player, iTunes, Windows File Properties, all fine. It's just on my phone. Downloaded a different music player on my phone, same problem. So it has to be something with my phone and/or the files.
There are options to stream a game to the Nvidia shield from another pc. Steam has in home streaming as well, but I think thats pc to pc only.
HD600 is currently on sale for $250 - $15 (mail in rebate) = $235. Not a huge amount of bass, but 650's have more at $285. Above your price range, but it's a good deal so I figured it's worth mentioning.
I ran into an issue with this model, as the power adapter has a pretty short cable (shorter than my initial AV I wanna hook this up with). Instead of buying a long and expensive high-end Optical/Coaxial cables to hook it up, is it smart to get a DC extension cable for the power adapter of Blue V2?
for ex.: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B075LK68G4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=AHNGEGBSR57YG&psc=1
There is no information in the manual about the actual DC cable port or lenht.. Would it fit?
Couldn't find on Thomann. Here is what I use with my Atom stack.
Excuse me for the noob question, how those splitters should be connected?
is that the item you meant?
That sub is probably about as good as you're going to get for such a slim footprint at that price.
This sub is like $10 more but 2.5x the power with a 2" larger driver. If you have the space you're better off with this.
For immersion I would recommend something like the AKG K371
Like you I was looking for a headphone for experiencing gaming. I have a majority of the headphones everyone is listing. They are all excellent, but the AKG's I find myself coming bacck to over my Drop 177X, HD58XX, HD 600, Philip X2 (the original ones), Philips SPH 9500 (original ones), and my Beyerdynamic 880 PROs.
I also have a JDS Labs dac+/amp+ and Topping L30/E30 combo. The AKG's feel like a better all-arounder for most games. I think my HD58X's and Drop 177X's are both a close 2nd. If it's cinamatic, I go with the 880 Pro's.
Here is a good review on them: AKG K371 Review (Audio Science Review)
I don’t like excessive clamping force so the 9500s are fine. If you don’t like the cloth earpads that is an easy fix. These Shure HPAEC940 Replacement Velour Ear Pads are really well regarded in previous 9500 threads: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OM06RG/
Hi. I missed x2hr when the were on sale($165aud), now they're back to $217, I find it hard to justify to buy at this price now lol. They might go on sale again, as they were on sale 2 months before the sale that I've missed, but i kind need earphones now. Shp9500 are around $170AUD here:
Philips SHP9500 HiFi Precision Stereo Over-Ear Headphones (Black) https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1VMVFZNR7REB51FWAMHD
Comfort is important, but I do mostly play singleplayer titles, where I want to be immersed.
Will they do or should I x2hr?
Btw, on this link there are also shp9600MB and they are cheaper at $155.
And also gamey TAG6105 for $193. With control on the wire. It says there they've got "immersive bass" and "7.1 surround" which, I read here on reddit, is BS. But bass for explosions is good, I guess.
Any suggestions here?
That headphone amp only has an unbalanced output (1/4"). If you want full balanced, you need a different amp. That said, you can run balanced from the dac to the amp so the signal is as clean as possible.
This cable will go from the back of the dac to the amp.
Thanks a lot for the reply!
I really like the IFI Zen, but it's USB input only, and while I haven't been able to find definitive proof, I think my PS4 (a B-chassis, which is now pretty old) wouldn't be able to output audio through the USB (optical only).
I found a post on Reddit by a user claiming that a firmware update to the Zen allows it to work with a PS4 pro, but then again the pro is a more modern, more expensive version, so it might not be the same.
Would it be possible to use a 3.5 mm plug to USB adapter (see https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZKLC3RF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_F6KSK5FGT1YKMT14WJZ7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) to output audio from my monitor's 3.5 mm jack to the Zen, and use an external power supply to actually power the amp? Until now I used to plug my headphones straight into the monitor, but of course that only works with low impedance cans...
Unfortunately, the JDS Atom isn't available on Amazon, and importing from the US by buying from the JDS website would almost double the cost (postage + customs + taxes), which would put me quite close to being over budget . I've recently been shafted by customs, and I really don't want to give them more of my money or time.
The K5 is slightly above budget... if there's no other options, then I guess I'll have to consider biting the bullet, but that's a last resort, for now at least.
IFi Zen Dac and ATH M40x for close back or SHP9500 and any stand alone mic which will fit in the budget. Plenty of headphone upgrade paths with a quality Dac amp Combo￼ and pretty much the cheapest USB Mic off Amazon will compete with a boom mic for sound quality.
If you NEED a boom Mic you change out the IFi Zen Dac for a Sennheiser GSX 1000, Shiit Fulla and get yourself a boom mic cable like a VModa
Lol I didn't expect that but I think you can order from amazon if there are no hifi stores. Just need to pay for shipping.
Just replace the pads with the brainwavz round velour pads. You will be amazed by the sound quality improvement. The bass gets richer with better extension, the soundstage widens, and the treble becomes totally neutral. Many people are using these pads and we all have the same experience.
No. The Schiit Hel 2 is a headphone amplifier. Its' power is measured in milliwatts (1/1000th of a watt) so 1350 is actually 1.3 watts. What you need is something like the SMSL AD-18. It's power is measured in whole watts (80 of them per speaker). It has a headphone output too, but not as good as the Hel.
I have about a dozen headphones (not counting iems) between $100 to $1500 and my current favorite is the Harmonicdyne Zeus. The soundstage is fantastic, imaging is great and it's got a good warm sound signature. I also listen to OSTs and edm mostly (with some heavy metal thrown in when the mood hits) and these are great for that. They also look beautiful IMO, though they're a little on the flashy side.
The onboard DAC should be good enough. They don't seem to give specs for power though. But I'd suspect that you would see improvement using an amp for the HD600, but likely wouldn't for the HD660s, a more recent model designed to be easier to drive.
I don't think there is a HD600s, but the HD600 would be best with at least 2.5 Vrms (and lots of user reviews seem to support that these Sennheisers scale well with more power), while the HD660s would likely do fine either direct from the MB, or with an inexpensive ~ 1 Vrms DAC/AMP dongle like this or this.
mb42x is a great choice. the schiit and fiio are headphone amps and would not power speakers. I would get a cheaper amp like this and a 3.5 to rca cable. find a warehouse deals mb42x on amazon, and you have a sweet system for near $100. The next thing I would get is any semi-decent subwoofer (like dayton sub-1000 or 1200) to fill out the lower end.
I have some that are similar to these:
As long as one end of the strap is longer than the other, the carabiner won't have to make contact with the bar. There's others where the carabiner is meant to hook directly over the bar, but this design feels more secure to me. My pull up bar isn't super high off the ground, so I just hang out with my knees bent but otherwise I'd use a box or platform to get into position.
This is how you get into the straps:
There's other products like the Back Bubble that work basically the same way. You could probably rig up something similar with tow straps.
People might hate this but there's a closed version of the shp 9500. Only problem is its usb and the cable looks like its non-removable. Couldn't find any reviews so its a complete gamble other than its probably still comfy.