What are /r/ageofsigmar's favorite Products & Services?

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I found these on amazon! https://www.amazon.ca/IumerIU-Blossom-Railroad-Landscape-Decoration/dp/B07WS7PNJ6/ref=sr_1_35?dchild=1&keywords=20pcs+65mm+Cherry+Blossom+Artificial+Flowers%2C+HO+OO+Scale+Model+Trees+Scenery+Railroad+Layout+Scene&qid=1614128698&s=toys&sr=1-35

You can get good sets on amazon for like 20 bux that work just fine.

Ive used this set Miniature Paint Brushes Detail Set -12pc Minute Series XII Miniature Brushes for Fine Detailing. Model Brushes for Acrylic Watercolor Oil - Paint by Numbers Art Supplies Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YY8QGQ7JH87MWBD8YWY0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Worked fine

Full disclosure. I didn't pick it up, just saw the image and thought of it as a base. But you can buy them on Amazon:

Bismuth Crystal

Rakarth Flesh, Combination of Druchii Violet and Seraphim Sepia to wash

The Druchii blends with the purple well and makes flesh look palid and contused. The Sepia will add some subtle warmth to help the flesh not clash with the gold.

And then Palid Wych Flesh to highlight.

Here's a good resource for working out complimentary colour pallets https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel/

Wow thanks for all the love out the gate, for the blossoms since a few of you asked I found these on Canadian Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/IumerIU-Blossom-Railroad-Landscape-Decoration/dp/B07WS7PNJ6/ref=sr_1_35?dchild=1&keywords=20pcs+65mm+Cherry+Blossom+Artificial+Flowers%2C+HO+OO+Scale+Model+Trees+Scenery+Railroad+Layout+Scene&qid=1614128698&s=toys&sr=1-35

And then I just chopped them up for parts.

Age of Sigmar Megabattle: Part 3 The Finale

To see Part 2 go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxEwiaYb7TY

Four rival armies march to war, each with the same goal - at the battle's end the relic must be in their control. Enemies cast aside long hatred's of each other and offer terms of parley and alliance scheming and back stabbing to succeed in their quest. The Relic is all. Who will come out ahead of this apocalyptic clash?, Join us and find out!

Support us by becoming a backer here https://www.patreon.com/tabletopminis

I recently discovered this cool colour wheel. It's intended for web design and stuff but I don't see why you couldn't use it to see what might look nice on minis.

https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel/?base=2&rule=Analogous&selected=1&name=My%20Color%20Theme&mode=rgb&rgbvalues=1,0.17719122808190102,0.9005839147088845,0.4092771250027755,0.26873321636289854,0.91,0.22719122808190106,0.6951675083980973,1,0.16124401755452994,0.91,0.5697099402380064,0.5150736765277828,1,0.17719122808190102&swatchOrder=0,1,2,3,4

Alternately, you can start with a brighter red base.

Instead of Khorne Red, use Mephiston Red (it is also a base paint) instead. You can then follow the red with a wash of Agrax earthshade and the use a layer of Evil Suns Scarlet and a edge hilights Of Fire Dragon bright.

If you’re looking for a bright bright red that doesn’t hilight towards orange, this is an alternative red scheme: Mephiston Red > Wash Carroburg Crimson > Layer Evil Sunz Scarlet > Edge hilight Wild Rider Red

The Citadel Paint app is great to give both examples and paint scheme help as well

iOS - Citadel Paint: The App by Games Workshop https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/citadel-paint-the-app/id1238189867?mt=8

Android - Citadel Paint: The App by Games Workshop https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamesworkshop.citadelpaint&hl=en_US

Bases - Short answer: no it's not worth it. That said, I personally re-based everything, 3 armies in total and easily 200+ bases. But I only did it because I really like how the models looked on round bases. I would not recommend it to anyone else as there's not much benefit for all that work.

Removing paint - I use Purple Power. I stripped an entire army with it before, all plastic/resin. I've left models in the tub for 4+ months at one point, and no damage. The super glue came undone, and I had to re-glue everything, but that's not that big of a deal.

Edit: Also, for one of the armies, the paint strip helped with the rebasing as it unglued the model from the base. The other 2 were much more work intensive removing the model from the bases while trying to make sure nothing breaks on the model.

So the heads come from the Warp lightning cannon/plagueclaw catapult kit. I had 3 myself, and then went buying bits online and asking around for spares (took many months)

The arms are plaguemonk arms, but I used hands from Empire Flagellants (https://tinyurl.com/ydg5znmz this one). Once again, bits buying.

The globes are green stuff and the backpacks are from http://maxmini.eu

Cheers!

I don't use Citadel Air. Citadel air is fine, but just like all their other stuff it's ridiculously over-priced. You're much better off mixing your own paint with reducer using either the citadel standard colors or any other acrylic brands colors.

To paint all of these models I used about 1/4 a pod of Retributor Gold. If I were to have used the Citadel Air, I would have ended up using 3/4 to a full jar of it.

I use the following: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Air-Colors-Flash-Dry-Reducer/23519344?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3&adid=22222222227017418644&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52495349831&wl4=pla-84056562911&wl5=9004624&wl6=&wl7=&...

You can also use water, the benefit of reducer is that it's going to dry more quickly after it hits the model and produce a smoother finish. I have another photo on our commission facebook page where you can see them from the front: https://www.facebook.com/masterpieceminiatures/

No worries, and thanks for not taking it personally. As far as set up, do you currently use one of these? I've found swing arm mounts really helpful for keeping things in frame/ in focus.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Flexible-Rotation-Bracket-3-5-6-3/dp/B07P7Z1FWL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=swing+arm+phone+mount&qid=1628000841&sprefix=swing+arm+phon&sr=8-3

This is one of the reasons I keep plastic droppers (like this) on hand. If I do spill wash, I'm able to pick it right back up with one. Also, I can get the wash out of the bottle with a dropper (and put it on my palette), close the bottle, use the wash, and then use the dropper to put any leftover wash back into the bottle.

Thanks! And the process is really simple. I use this stuff call liquitex resin sand for the texture part. Liquitex Professional Effects Medium, 8-oz, Natural Sand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KNPMIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0J7J1MZK8BE4Z34AT0GJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Regular rock slate for the base. I primed with wraithbone and used skeleton horde contrast for the sand and arggos dunes contrast on the rock. Then I dry brushed both with ushanti bone for a little highlight. The tufts of grass are from ArmyPainter

Thanks!

This is the lightbox- cheap as chips but does a really good job.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08HMN4XNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_c_MSXYJCE183P0BPC9WNY9

I used these ones. Its great because you get 3 sizes and theyre a hard plastic so can take being cut and filed etc.

not necessarily....

AOS Starter Set on Amazon is only 110 dollars, free shipping with amazon prime. If he really only wants the stormcast, he can easily sell off the Khorne and recover some money to buy even more stormcast.

Just to note, Amazon UK has the paperback on pre-order for £3, due to be released on 12th July apparently. I was about to buy it on Black Library but I think I'll wait for it now, bargain price.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1784967513

There you are friend. Note that amazon is selling it for quite a bit more than I bought it, and I don't think it is worth the listed price. Honestly any toy fossil kit would work with the same principles.

They exist, I own them, but i can't find the product on the GW website.

EDIT: Here's the listing on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Order-July-Warscroll-Cards/dp/B07F6R6LB7/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_21_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EXDBEJX09R4RZDAEK3V8

I use this masters kit from Amazon, $80 and it's been great and I've had zero issues with it with anything I've done with it. I couldn't see myself buying a few hundred dollars worth of something I wasn't sure would be for me or if it would be worth it to use and for the price it's a good starting point for a good tank and decent brush you don't need to spend a lot.

Heck yeah! Here's the one a ton of artists on this sub as well as content creators use. I love it. This was my first airbrush and I actually still use it for priming all of my minis. I have a very expensive one now for display level stuff but you can do almost anything else with this one. From priming, zenithal, glazing, and varnishing. Good luck bud, you got this!

Painting Question: I was wondering how people tend to paint their models off of the bases. I used to hold them, but realized I was causing issues by doing so (making the paint gain my fingerprints). I have a basing scheme right now for my models that requires the models to not be on them until after they're done, since they have a distinct colouring that requires a different primer. So what should I do? I've always had issues with using a pin in the leg, since the model tends to spin around when I use my airbrush. I just tried the method of gluing the models to painting bases, and getting them off was REALLY difficult. Should something like this work, or are there better recommendations?

Alot of people myself included use cork. It can often be bought in the form of coasters or bulletin boards like these just break pieces off with your clippers to make rocks and paint them. They're usually glued to the base before priming but can be done after as well.

I prefer it too, especially for pile in moves.

I picked up THIS one. I think I'm going to buy another one too for varied terrain. I really like the one I have.

Spray definitely make a difference. I have used brush on primers before and they all suffer the same issue as trying to paint over unprimer plastic, you need multiple coats just to get an even coat, and no brush on I have ever used has adhered very well.

Spraying is WAY faster, and is easier to get a nice even coat. Heat the can up in hot tap water, shake the crap out of it, and then just do short quick bursts at the mini from various angles from about 8-12 inches away.

As to watering down the paints, are you using a palette of some variety? Personally I suggest a cold palette, Dr.Faust has a video about it on youtube, it's been life changing for me.

Either way, usually when I thin I will put a drop or two of paint on my palette, then load up my #2 brush with clean water, and that's it. That's usually more than enough to thin it for a nice even coat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYvr_Z64EZI&ab_channel=DoctorFaust%27sPaintingClinic

I made this cold pallete but I used these instead of a tile.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P7YWTVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works like a dream, and I have a spare so I can go longer without cleaning.

I like my Micron Pigmas.

Luckily this is not an area where you have to spend a ton for premium gear to make it work for you. Basic stuff in this category works really well for our niche hobby and these things are quit common. That 10 dollar pack will do everything you need an more and last years if you leave the caps on.

I evolved my Rx bottle painting handle recently, and now it's like a super painting handle.

I took the 1.25 inch wide Rx bottle, flipped it over, and glued a 2mm thick dime sized neodymium magnet on the bottom of it. Then I saved up a bunch of the lids, and if you look in the lid you have a plastic insert. I pulled it out and stuck in one of these 3m stainless steel discs which fit perfectly into the little recess. Now I have a uber paint handle with magnetized toppers. Best part is that you can easily spin them while painting with your thumb. Absolutely love it.

we all been there and hate that too ;)

I bought that : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B096SKLN8L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm really happy so far. Nothing stained it. Paint, shades etc don't do anything to it.

I even dropped a pot of plastic cement on it and it cleaned off pretty easy.

Cheers.

I just use one of these.

Hobby hacksaw - Amazon

The Vanguard box for $130 is certainly a good deal. All separately it would be $197. Amazon is selling it for $110.

There is also Arena of Shades though unless you want Nighthaunt too or could split it with someone who does.

This has been the most comfortable magnifier I've used. I also have one that mounts to my desk with a light but I prefer the headgear. They also fit comfortably over my glasses.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAU5FSC/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks man ✌🏼got those bad boys off Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GBCPM6I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?language=en_US&ie=UTF8&linkCode=gg2&linkId=312f915a47e657646f9347019851b626&tag=ms-article-20

Thanks man ✌🏼got those bad boys off Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GBCPM6I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?language=en_US&ie=UTF8&linkCode=gg2&linkId=312f915a47e657646f9347019851b626&tag=ms-article-20

If you're in the US and don't want to wait 6 weeks for them to arrive, you can find something similar on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JBXW8WW/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07X83CTZ9/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_dp_1

Although the price has gone up in the couple years since. At highest setting it’s very bright but the colours just white so it doesn’t screw with your perception of the model. Very adjustable too and holds its position nicely.

Thanks! I had four skin recipes I tried here.

Essentially I applied a dark tone, Zenithal hilighted a lighter tone, did a diluted wash over and then finally used oil paints to add and feather highlights.

For specific colours, I used a light and dark tone from this set for the base colours. Then citadel shades were dark purple for black skin, reikland fleshade for the two middle skin tones and then a light purple for the very pale skin. Hope this helps!

Its definitely from the evocators (on foot) kit link with picture -3rd image-

Best of luck though, I still can't tell if its hair or a cap XD

I've tried a few different methods!

If you have a 3D printer, you could easily print out appropriate sized trays / inserts, and then build up terrain around them. If you don't have a printer you can find etsy / ebay sellers that sell them in bulk, but they're usually only in standard base sizes...

The method I used for most of them was to drill out holes in some thin XPS foam card stock, using these drill bits:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072XJ5NG3

They come in every shape and size that I've needed for the warband bases. Once I had my XPS, I'd stick that on to some magnetic sheets, and then cut those down to size and do a rough layout on the base, dry-fitting models to check position etc. Once I was happy with all of that, I'd build up terrain on top of them, to blend it all together

11 Nontoxic Miniature Paint... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QL55V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use these and they work really well.

Nuln oil is only really good for blacks and other dark colors. Earth shade is mostly for browns.

This box, which cost about as much as 2 nuln oils and 2 earthshades gets you a whole range of washes to try.

I know a lot of people swear by citadel paints, but the dropper bottles are much better in my experience. I still buy citadel contrast paints but I don't know any of their normal acrylics.

I think people use 50/50 super glue and contact cement. Contact cement chemically "melts" the plastic parts together so once they're on they're never coming off. It doesn't work on resin however. Super glue still does the job but can often be snapped off depending on the joint, but works on resin. Personally I use contact cement almost exclusively for GW plastic minis. This one in particular is my favourite.

Revell Contacta Liquid Glue with Professional Needle Applicator https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RMJ2H8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FBGMGXZQ6RP6KYZ533A0

You can get super glue pretty much everywhere. Make sure you get the gel kind though.

I use these to transport my army around. Add a magnet to the bottom of your model's base and you're good to go.

I used these for my mawtribes. One pair holds on a stonehorn/thundertusk head no problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Deryun-Pack-Small-Magnets-Crafts/dp/B08CN7J2S3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3NQ5Y4370134&keywords=deryun+fridge+magnets&qid=1651606644&sprefix=deryun+fridge+magnets%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K04290007-Camouflage-Plastic-Technology/dp/B00176TH8C

This stuff is just freaking incredible, honestly. Don't buy it on Amazon; your local store should have it for like $6/can.

Neodymium magnets come in millimeters. Go to Amazon and search for 5x1 magnet and you will find a large choice of magnets. The measurements are width x depth. When I first started I used 5x1 for everything. Older 25 mm bases are only 2 mm deep so I used 2 magnets on those, and 3 magnet on the 3 mm deep bigger bases. I realized that 5x3 are a much more economical option for the bigger deeper bases. For arms, weapons, etc. I like 3x1, anything smaller is too weak to hold the arm or weapon. I bought a random pack from my FLGS, and realized I paid WAY too much, now I only buy from amazon, I have used about 300 magnets. My cheap project was more than I expected.

These are the two I bought most recently

5x3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M3H4VP5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q0Z0SJZDFKYJ7VA0RCRG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

3x1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NZSL2V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EAG97AHW3VG3E6CWR4QD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I used micro led lights from amazon and taped the wires to a button battery below, this model was surprisingly easy to wire!

25 pcs Pre-soldered Micro Litz... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5MYG1X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They’re on Amazon! I actually got mine at Hobby Lobby but here’s a link to what is essentially the exact same thing

Corax white is notoriously temperamental. Personally I'd say get a decent cheap airbrush, and save money over time. But glad you got a decent prime

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N64M2HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything you need to start right in one tidy package. I'm in my second year with this setup and its still working great. The friend that suggested it to me has had his for 6 years.

You should also buy bottles of:

• Airbrush thinner
• Flow Improver
• 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
• Needle Juice

This is the best airbrush video I have seen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OFo98LFvnk&t=14s&ab_channel=Ninjon

I was having a hell of a time with my airbrush until I watched this video. His methods for cleaning the brush are awesome, as is the special sauce mixture of thinner/flow improver he uses. This mixture almost eliminates tip drying, and if you also use the needle juice tip drying is almost non existant.

Needle juice should be applied to the needle before you start a spraying session. To do this you simply pull out the needle, squirt some needle juice on a paper towel, wipe it on the needle, then put it back in the airbrush.

https://www.amazon.com/Revlon-1875W-Compact-Travel-Dryer/dp/B003TQPRGY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3EL6JTTTRF2M8&keywords=hair+dryer&qid=1646692364&sprefix=hair%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-3

Here's one for less than a pot of GW paint.

5x2 magnets: VNDUEEY 300Pcs 5x2mm Refrigerator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078BGGYH8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

10x2 Magnets: DIYMAG 120Pcs Refrigerator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753ZPBLQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yep, that is what I used. Magicfly Magnet Adhesive Sheets 8 x 10 Inch, 15 Pack Flexible Magnetic Sheets for Photos, Crafts and Die Storage, Easy Peel & Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JH7N244/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_F81NRJ5RTT0QZT0S86YW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I also tried cheap brushes and believe me they work well There are a few cheaper brushes like W&N, such as the rosemary co ones. I will say that my koartie brushes have lasted ages, painted something like 8000-10000 points of models and still paint like-new. And they have launch their brushes on amazon uk too.

Fine paint brushes

There are a few cheaper brushes like W&N, such as the rosemary co ones. I will say that my koartie brushes have lasted ages, painted something like 8000-10000 points of models and still paint like-new. And they have launch their brushes on amazon uk too.

Fine paint brushes

it depends on where you live, i used theses that i had left from christmas decorations.

https://www.amazon.es/Guirnaldas-Decoraci%C3%B3n-Cumplea%C3%B1o-Iluminaci%C3%B3n-Constante/dp/B087P8L1TQ/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=micro+led&qid=1643907007&sprefix=micro+led%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzREdDVU4wNFhOWVNHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTk2NDU1UUk5RExUUVUxSUU3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNjg2MzcxUkxRM1A5SzZRS09NJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

next time i will look onto some proper micro led used for dioramas and miniatures, but these work well in a pinch and are cheap enough to not care if you screw something

Timbertech Airbrush Kit with Compressor AS-186K with Airbrush Gun, Air Hose, Cleaning Brush & Paints for Hobby, Graphic and so on https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08216RG1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XQY1Q3SRKSNKW5RMG3T4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Excellent compressor with a free airbrush included. Upgrade the airbrush once you’ve gotten good with it.

I use one of these for my airbrush holder. It mounts to the side of a table. That may work with the suction fed airbrush.

Not sure what your setup is like, but I use one of these and I love it.

You need a respirator, an airbrush flow improver (for thinning your paint), the airbrush itself and an air compressor.

I bought this VIVOHOME 110-120V Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N64M2HM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Although I could have sworn it use to be much cheaper when I got it, weird. Regardless it’s worked great for me so far although the instructions were not good so I kinda had to figure it out in my own.

No problem. I do art and CC for a living so I enjoy this kind of stuff. If you've got any color questions, let me know!

As for the color wheel stuff, there's a great website by Adobe that really helps with that: https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel

There's a drop down on the left that you can change which color scheme (analogous, monochromatic, etc) and then you can move the colors around to pick. It's helpful.

As for overall color theory... Its great to have cool colors next to warm colors to make them pop. Contrast is key. Cold next to warm, bright next to dark.

Good luck and feel free to hit me up if you have more questions!!

Don’t know where in the world you are, but this is the sort of thing you can get off AmazonUK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-3mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B003BKPIN0/

Just put ‘neodymium’ into Amazon’s search, and look for the size you want. They come in all different sizes and strengths.

I used some flock from Amazon! Cherry Blossom Flock

I would pick one faction and focus on them first. GW did release starting paint sets for each half. Here is the orc one. You will still need to get primer. Warhammer Age of Sigmar - Orruk Warclance Gutrippaz + Paints Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B4BNZJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_K5TQWCBEBC52J0Q967D3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Is this any good?

VIVOHOME 110-120V Professional Airbrushing Paint System with 1/5 HP Air Compressor and 3 Airbrush Kits for Tattoo Makeup Shoes Cake Decoration Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0989L8ZMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Z7QX6PYV7RYQCC62EM60?psc=1

Got the trees from here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075178WD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They come like the one on the base, I cut up some branches and tried wrapping them around the back branches on the model. it's about a trees worth on his back.

Thank you very much ^^

Got the trees from here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075178WD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The pinks were Fulgrim pink, Emperor's Children, and the contrast Volupus Pink, all from GW. I think for the petals it went, based white, once over with emperors, then the contrast, then dry the Fulgrim to lighten the edges.

Thanks very much ^^

The new app has all warscrolls for free. And all the 2.0 books as well.

Only as new 3.0 books get phased in, they get locked away behind the codes. But only the army rules, the warscrolls remain free.

At least that's how it's been so far. If that changes, I'll take to pitchforks with you.

Take a look here : https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel

Put your purple in the middle spot and then take a look at some of the options. If you don't want yellow maybe you can do a square, which gives you orange, blue and green as suggestions, or a triad with green and orange.

I'm gonna add on to the other comments. Coming from a design theory and practice background BTW!

Colour theory is and will be helpful, but admittedly takes years to grasp and use on the fly easily. I suggest using this tool Here to help you find a scheme you like while you are new. The way to NOT make this into a crutch is to think of 1 or 2 colours you want to use, then find the complimentary colors from there with this tool. Eventually you will be able to quickly piece together schemes that work well on a theoretical level without it, and from there, it's all application and testing out in paint form.

Nice even coats! I second that you should wash this, and it will really elevate it.

What led you to choose these particular colors? It's not my taste to have such a variety of color on a single miniature but here you managed to pull it off!

Check out https://color.adobe.com/create I use it for inspiration.

Great job!

I've learned that toning down expectations and requirements for normal footsoilders greatly contributes in making an army fast. I only invest great time and effort in large center pieces or special units.

Find ways to fake things when painting and ask yourself if you really need 2 kinds of highlights on your normal troops, if any highlights at all.

These 10 graveguards where assembled and painted within 8 hours.

https://imageshack.us/i/pm7Zpy87j

https://imageshack.us/i/pneLeI1Cj

We play the missions from the generals Handbook. Star strike or knife trough the heard were the last two games.

Most of the time I chase the Black Nights forward. Kill something and then let them get up again. While a Sklette carefully secure the other flank.

Most of the time the board control lies with the undead.

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The Cannone has only 24" range. What should he do if I hide my General far back?

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Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator

Is this the correct model/most up to date model?
https://www.amazon.com/Stormcast-Eternals-Vigilors-Warhammer-Sigmar/dp/B09K4G47VW/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=2F7TUK7RLEWD7&dchild=1&keywords=vigilors+stormcast&qid=1635809953&sprefix=vigilors+stormcast%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-1

Don’t sweat it. Keep practicing with it. I promise it’s worth it. It took me probably a year to finally understand how clean you need to keep the airbrush, the consistency you need to mix the paints to, which paints work well, etc. Now the airbrush is my favorite tool and saves a ton of time and produces (arguably) results you can’t get any other way. Vallejo black clumps up in my experience in the pot even. Try some Molotow Black. It is super thin and covers well - sprays like a dream.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043MIOZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C524A3AG0QM03X28KTS9

I bought these stackable plastic storage container thing from target. The top has a handle, and you can stack each case on top of eachother: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5QYDMJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_06F10YR2AMHCGZ3EAF4G

They look like that ^ but bigger. I then put a tin sheet on the bottom, and glues a magnet to the bottom of my models. Works great and cost like 50 bux.

I used two and cut out the bottom of one of the cases and stacked it to another to make a biiiiiig one for carrying bigger models.

I recently started monetizing, and am not an expert. I believe the magnet you would want is a 3mm x 1mm or a 2mm x 1mm. You want to use the largest that would fit in the socket without destroying the socket for maximum power.

Army painter makes a variety pack with 5mm and 3mm that you should find at a store near you, or you can buy the sizes seperately.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RW3RDDD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_RVEZE8ZJ1TMTECBBZMVP

If you have to go smaller

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHKJJFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_DTRZ4H9QFVKTJ5N89ZN2

Remember to make the polarity attract instead of repel. You should also check out Duncan's video for magnetized carry cases if you are going to get magnets.

Yeah a cheapo tablet will do fine for that. You'll need an stand or holder for it of course.

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Voyager-Android-Tablet-Storage/dp/B08P7WCRDM/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=7+in+tablet&qid=1628007096&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QT9PW12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fbclid=IwAR0H6KHw-G7QOWkTauiXOnCEPfgSGJljmi2UqIMX66SRmzdtw1WrWzUOy6A

This is what I've started using and I really enjoy it. 2000 lumens of brightnis and color temp of 5600-6000k. It also has 4 brightness settings you can toggle between (100%, 75%, 50% and 25%).

So I played around a lot with these, wasn't really following a recipe. On my other models I just primed white -> used fluourescent blue ink from daler rowney and then did some edge highlighting with white over top of that.

for these ones, I primed white, then using an airbrush hit it with the DR fluourescent blue. then I drybrushed the entire model white (which originally I wasn't planning on doing, wanted to try doing this all with the airbrush), and then manually highlighted the top portion of each face in white. After that was done, I decided that I wanted a little more variation in the blues, so I used liquitex phthalocyanine blue ink (green shade) to darken down certain areas to make the center mass of each ghost appear brighter. was really sloppy with it in some spots (particularly the strands coming out of the top), feathered it in others for a more gradual transition.

beware that liquitex ink - it is extremely potent.

Thanks, it's actually just Vallejo "thick mud" with some "water texture" over top. Here's what I purchased (not an affiliate link or anything)

Vallejo Mud and Water

I also found this cool tutorial that does a pretty good job explaining how to make something similar:

Swamp Diorama

Yes. Buy cheap texture paint off amazon and prime it with the model. Then just paint it a color and paint the rim. Always looks better.

I know its messy and annoying but thers cheap and fast ways to do it. Something like this works well: Vallejo Rough Grey Pumice, 200ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PH9LNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9THTT7989XKKT89SF6K8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure if they are overpriced or not, but i took this set of 3 brushes by army painter which cover pretty much any usage you could have as a begginer and they are quite good.

It honestly really depends on what you need. But I personally wouldn’t buy this stuff. Too expensive for my taste.

If you want to save money the cheapest way to transport models effectively is to get some plastic containers (make sure it’s the right size for your units), and then get something like this it’s like a magnetic rubbery sheet that has a sticky side. You can cut them into the right shape and put them at the bottom of the plastic storage container.

Then you can magnetize your models by sticky tacking some small magnets on the bottom. And bam they won’t go anywhere.

Thanks so much, here’s the tower: M2cbridge Antique Roman Column Ruins European Castle Aquarium Decorations Fish Tank Hideout Rocks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082HJH1Q1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NK5Z93Z15F5CY1FTGBV0

It's all up to you, just like some people like strong tone from army painter over nuln oil. Any AK interactive enamel wash will work. I just used what I had on hand. I purchased a couple sets from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004R4KH8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_S996VGYFFGY833CWWC30?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

EDGELEC 56pcs (7 Colors x 8pcs) 12 Volt LED Lights Emitting Diodes Pre Wired DC 12v 5mm LED Assorted Kit Clear Lens- White Warm-White Red Yellow Green Blue Orange Small LED Lamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4H66LR/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glc_fabc_KZQEN7K5699WFDHR9C01?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 here are the led I used. They already have a inline resistor, 12volt to power. You can use doorbell wire and wire nuts to start. Positive to positive, negative to negative. This whole board will run on a 12v battery but I connected it to a 12volt led transformer I got on amazon. It's very simple to do and YouTube helps more than google.

Rustoleum Dead Flat, barely notice any shift in brightness, its not glossy, makes the colors pop out just a bit more and I've never had any issues with chipping or basing bits falling off.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-302151-Universal-Surface-Spray/dp/B01J3YYX8S

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clipper-Stainless-Suitable-Fingernail-Toenail/dp/B084Q4TWWS/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=nail+clippers&qid=1617486011&sr=8-5

Thanks, bud! Very kind of you to say. Makeup brushes work wonders. That's not an affiliate link or anything, just a link to what I use. The thinner ones are a bit fragile, I must warn.

Here’s the new Seraphon release - with book! 🤣

https://www.amazon.com/Olefun-Dinosaur-Toys-Years-Old/dp/B07W8MQGKB/ref=mp_s_a_1_39?dchild=1&keywords=toy+dinosaur&qid=1617080893&sprefix=toy+din&sr=8-39

just a couple layers of dry brush and some black ink. I use a blender brush(https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Corneille-Golden-Taklon-Curved/dp/B004YUZY8K/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=7330+curved+flat+brush&qid=1615947876&sr=8-1) when I dry brush so it looks a little less like a drybrush

Short of just trying to paint it like that the only thing I can think of is the interference pigment powders. Mix them with varnish and paint it on, when the light hits it it reflects whatever color you used.

It is this one: B Baosity Professioneller Drehteller 360 Grad drehbar Durchmesser 14 cm elektrisch Drehteller für Fotos, Videos, Schmuck und Kuchen - Schwarz https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07VZ5QQ5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0HF1GTQXPW47NMYDQMB9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Found this for people who can't/don't own a drill

Foam insert

This is the kind of compressor you'll want if possible:

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Airbrushing-Multipurpose/dp/B01M33C8MV

Almost all airbrush specific compressors will more or less be this model. You can use hardware grade air compressors if you can dial the pressure down but they are also much louder.

The airbrush you found is a siphon feed model. Those are designed for canvas painting where large amounts of paint are needed. You want a dual action gravity feed model.

My magnets still work with the gap, a lot of people use green stuff to make the gap smaller.

These are the type of magnets I use https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07BJFD6FL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UiyeGbAJ49V7N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 + some I found in my hobby shop.

Use something like this instead of brushes:

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Black liner Pens

This stuff.

the GW one's are great if used properly from get go, but if you make a mistake just paint over the mistake with thinned down paint imo, so long as it blends it's fine.

you need never ask that question again, for here is a chart: here

Dark Tone Ink is the answer, as that chart shows. I'd get this: here

I'm not a fan of army painters other stuff, but these are magic, they take a little getting used to at first but are a lot better and much more forgiving long run.

remember, have fun with painting, a lot of influences out there will try to make it seem like how fast you can push out an army is the best way, but truth is taking your time is where you learn the most and it's fun/satisfying.