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That is a common idea, however I have not see in backed up by evidence. Like I said before, it can exacerbate problems that already exist, but in a well managed system you can have nitrates far above 80ppm(aka mg/l) without problems. Some fish are sensitive to nitrates, yes. But for many other commercially produced fish and ornamental fish, high nitrate toxicity requires absurdly high levels.
Exposure to high nitrates 200ppm for fry, and 800ppm for adult striped bass
I cant find link to full paper but adult salmon were tolerating up to 5000ppm and the eggs/fry tolerating far above 80ppm as well.
I am open to more evidence that the opposite is true for fish common in ap systems (tilapia, koi, perch, etc)
Okay. the start is done. If there is a better and safer way to grow this document, someone re me in the comments.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhGeKIuJqxFEdFZkTURKRUdEN1c4aDNGRGMwRDk4YXc
Although I expect someone will delete everything we put in it, then lock it so no one can put stuff back in...
EDIT: points have been raised to start spreadsheets for pests and fish types. this is great, except I am at work and must sign off now. TTFN
Are we really still considering stacked grow beds? Not only are we talking about supporting some serious weight per square foot, you have to think about lighting. How are you going to light those beds? Why are we reinventing the wheel over and over? This has been done by the Brits already and it looks much more efficient: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/katehofman/growup-an-aquaponic-urban-farm-for-london And the guys at Freight Farms seem to have it figured out too: http://www.freightfarms.com/
Just lighting from the window, the only thing that uses power atm is the tiny pump (soon to be a heater), I have no air pump with this bad boy. Back to the Roots AquaFarm v2 (Packaging May Vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CN52TRM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_T8iTub182N3T7
I was originally using Cayenne but it had a huge amount of bugs and I was not at all comfortable with all our fish and plants dying because the developers blocked my IP (yes, this happened). I’m using Home Assistant now, it’s meant for home automation but it works great for our setup too.
It looks like a gutter filter.
Amazon
Home Depot
I think that’s for sealing countertops and the like, not for extended periods of immersion. See this instead. That’s on the American Amazon site because I had trouble copying the ca amazon link on the app but there is an equivalent product on the Canadian site.
Here's a link for an end fitting in the UK.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/McAlpine-DC4-BL-Drain-Connector-Blank/dp/B00PJ8HPI8
The manufacturer info and the description might help you find it in your specific country. Feel free to reach out to me if you need more assistance.
Tap water is often slightly basic to reduce corrosion and leaching. You absolutely need to correct to a pH that is tolerable for plants. Put some of this in a jug and pH adjust the jug such that you’re adding water slightly more acidic than the tank. Do this every hour or so (so as not to shock the fish) until you’re in range.
You will need to often babysit this as you add water to the system, as the tank is likely buffering to too high a pH as well.
General Hydroponics HGC722120 Liquid Premium Buffering For pH Stability, Quart, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJID1I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VrffFb14GXQ04
UPDATE: I bought the 400w version of the same pump and I'm happy to report that it's working flawlessly! Luckily I was within the return window for the Ecoplus, which cost twice as much.
​
Thanks again for the suggestion!
Well CFM doesn't tell you very much though. The question is how much heat is transferred from the air to the medium. That would however require more calculation than I am capable of. Gut feeling however tells me that it should be transferring much more heat even if you just spent the $120 on aluminium tubing.
I mean ideally you'd get something like this
Me too! When I first opened the box up I saw the air pump and wasn't sure how this was going to work. For my water testing, I bought the same kit that Petsmart uses when you bring in your water. Its the Tetra Easy Strips. I recorded everything I did with the tank and readings at least once a day. Ill try to post them somewhere for you to see.
I stopped recording the results late into the fishless cycle but about 2 weeks ago, I added the fish. Thats about a month for the full cycle and periodic checks show that the tank is staying constant.
You should totally show these guys how it's done. They're probably quite close to you, and they would have more room for you to play. By the way, it definitely looks like a grow-op with the reflective emergency blankets.
Overall, looks good!
Not set up with any of the ussual licenses but
"All of my scripts are available at github.com, feel free to use them for your aquaponics setup."
Plot.ly is not open source (free for basic https://plot.ly/plans) but using other graphing software shouldn't be horrible; personally I would plug the output into RRDtool. (open source http://www.oetiker.ch/en/oss/projects/rrdtool-en-us/) That would work for the graphs here.
EDIT: formatting
> That's the the most expensive part ...
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Well, if I come up with any cheaper alternatives, I'll be sure and let everybody know. Right now, I'm thinking that one could use something like this homebrew RGB sensor to quantify droplets on an indicator strip. A medical syringe could be used with a robot arm to draw up and dispense water samples. Still, there has to be a simpler, less failure-prone way to do this.
My guess it is pH related then. Above a pH of 7.5, phosphate ions will react with calcium and magnesium. These compounds can be taken up as easily.
This is not easily fixed without addressing alkalinity first. You need a carbonate hardness test. (Not a general hardness) I like ones that change color and are easier to read. Here is one for $10:
Adding pH down or phosphoric acid will be a losing battle until your carbonate hardness comes down. You really should use RO water and add the hard water to add alkalinity, calcium and carbonates as needed.
Realize pH and alkalinity are not the same thing. If you drop your pH, the hydrogen (pH stands for power of hydrogen), will combine with the carbonates (CO3) to form CO2 and H2O. As the CO2 slowly equalizes with the air, the pH will then rise. This will be a constant battle until the alkalinity is in line.
Here's the same filter half the price... This was told to me by a hydro farmer with the same concerns with expense of RO and filtering tap water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6V30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_VX00X4EBJZ0Z8AXSXBQD
I put a filter on my hose.
Also, use a timer so you don't accidentally flood everything.
I hope I'm not too late!
Comes out to $13 a pound and will last you a long time. I've only ordered two bags in the last 3.5 years.
you can literally buy them on amazon
thats a massive box though, shoot for probably the smallest one you can find. Don't add them until your grow bed is a little more mature, or else they will die from starvation and create an ammonia problem for you.
Plenty of good suggestions here and I doubt any would be bad, but I do not put nearly the effort being suggested.
Cherry tomatoes were one of the first things I introduced in my setup. The green will grow like crazy with no assistance. In order to get my plants producing fruit I had to start adding potassium. I do not have to help them pollinate, as suggested, but I do have several fans in my greenhouse blowing at them, so you may need to if not.
Outside of that, they grow like crazy and I have had my 3 current plants going for over 2 years (although one appears to be on its way out). I do not think any of the other suggestions will hurt you in any way and all make sense. I am just too lazy for all that.
If you're interested, Amazon had a killer deal on lump wood charcoal a couple weeks ago. 3-20lb bags for $43. I didn't even have my grill yet and ordered it. It arrived in 3 separate Walmart bags. I guess if Walmart can't beat them they'll join them...
Here it is. They went up $5, and while it's not the best of the best it's still well worth it.
I got some red wigglers a couple months after starting my system. Was going to order some from Uncle Jim on Amazon but decided first to email the local USDA Ag Agent, asking him for advice on a local source. He provided an online introduction to a local gardener with a "worm lady" reputation. She gave me a shoebox full of "soil" with worms of every size and lots of cocoons or eggs. Decided to establish a colony in a separate worm bin. That was last spring. Reckon there are several thousand of them now. Once a week or so, when I take the lid off to feed them, I give a few to the fish and drop some into the growbed, a constant flood with Hydroton setup. Haven't seen evidence of an established colony in the growbed yet. As far as not drowning in highly oxygenated water, I don't measure oxygen levels but I know its higher in the fish tank than the growbed and they drown in the fish tank. Still, they might be able to establish themselves in that narrow band of pebbles near the water line. If your bed is "flood and drain" it will be easier for them.
That "worm lady" recommended a little book called Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhaf and Joanne Olszewski. I found it very helpful.
Nightcrawlers need to maintain deep vertical tunnels to the surface; a tall order in an aquaponic growbed.
Depending on the size of your setup, you may be able to do it in a week or so with this: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Aquarium-Start-Bacteria-Aquariums/dp/B00N26P856 (Amazon price is a bit high, I got this bottle for $3 at walmart) My small 40 gallon setup cycled in around 5 days with 2 bottles of this added as well as ammonia daily. Larger setups will definitely take longer.
Yeah this is in a home aquarium, these are sitting in between the rim of the tank and the aquarium lid
That breaks down to $7 per lb. A larger quantity like this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHQ0IHA/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 (40L for $35)
is around a $1.20 per lb. The weight is listed at the bottom of the listing. Question is if the quality is comparable. Walmart has this as well : https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hydro-Crunch-Expanded-Clay-Growing-Media-Hydroponic-50-L-8-mm-Aggregate-Pebbles-Pellets/362412230 (50L for $36)
LED Grow Light, Roleadro 75W Full Spectrum Grow Light for Indoor Plants, 3500k Sunlike Plant Light for Seedings Growing, Blooming and Fruiting, Hydroponic, Micro Greens, Clones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QRQQ7B4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ex3fFb0QACSGY
There is a coupon for them now. I have grown several pepper plants with these. They are awesome! Cheap too!
It is usually more light needed to trigger flowering but here is a link to the concentrated micronutrients I use. I only use a few drops of the diluted result per plant. I think it mixes 1 ounce to 1 gallon of pure water.
Jackpot Micronutrient Liquid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VFQ3BNL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Personally I suggest using smart plugs so you can control it from your phone. My green house doesn’t get Wi-Fi so I bought the above.
An alternative to timed fills and drains is to use a wave action generator like you see in many aquariums. If you can tolerate a little mess, a tipping bucket solution is pretty easy to craft (you see them in water parks all over the place these days) -- here's something that gives you an idea: http://www.instructables.com/id/Splash-Pod-The-Personal-Water-Park/step16/Tipping-Buckets/ I'm not sure if it is good for aquaponics though.
There are also programmable surge and wave generators commonly available for aquariums. Maybe you can pick one up with the other leftover aquarium stuff.
Ghost shrimp would be good for both the plant and algae control. Also maybe check this out if your tank is 10 gallons although I believe they just released a 5 gallon version. https://www.amazon.com/Elive-Aquarium-Aquaponics-Cartridges-Hydrocorn/dp/B00IK5QRFY/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?crid=TO2OCMLPRG7K&keywords=aquaponics+filter&qid=1664031717&sprefix=aquaponics+fil%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-15
Clay is Clay the ones at ikea are the exact same as these only cheaper. your plants need the nutrients provided by the Clay in addition to what the fish produce. They also need something to root themselves in. https://youtu.be/VthKaKKbBhg
I was using the iron stain was an example. This is what happens to iton in a high pH environment. Frequently you will see it on the white plaster of a pool on a water intake.
If you have ebb and flow beds, this will create an area for bacteria to break things down. Your recent water change probably stopped this cycle. A cheap RO filter is about $200. I fill up 5 gallon water bottles for one of my systems so I can add when I need it from a cheap RO filter.
RO filtered water will have no chlorine so the ones outside the grocery store will work.
I would add a little EDDHA iron until your pH comes down. It will turn your water purple and your fish can swim in it.
If your system is not forming nitrates, you can supplement with calcium nitrate until your bacteria get going.
3/4” pvc 8’ 3/4” Female 90s x 4 3/4” Female T 3/4” female valve
I believe that’s all. What’s pictured here isn’t a radial flow, you need the T split with the 90s angled to encourage rotation. I have a video which briefly explains how mine works and you can get an idea of how to build it.
If you want, I can make an instructional video on how to make one.
Get the Photone app. You need to get PPFD above 200 for 16 hours.
See this chart:
I have had good success with these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fixture-Spectrum-Output-Sunlight-Replacement/dp/B0811WGKBC
They put out a lot of light for the money.
Have a look at a kit like this. It fits a standard 10 gallon aquarium which you can get for an additional $20. https://www.amazon.com/AquaSprouts-Garden/dp/B01B4ZRVR4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=M063OL87IBGJ&keywords=aquaponics+kit&qid=1659117618&sprefix=aquaponics+kit%2Caps%2C1863&sr=8-3 It's small and good for beginners.
I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ENFOHN8 Comes with a 4.0 and 7.0 solution for calibrating. Enough to last quite a while. It's maybe $10 or less to get a bottle of storage solution as well. I store the case upright since the cap doesn't make a good seal but it helps to keep it wet so it lasts a lot longer. Also have an Atlas Scientific that stays in the tank but the pen is a cheap easy solution at good quality.
If you would like a more detailed explanation for how the digester works I can make another video. Also, are used ceramic material intended to be used as a filter material as opposed to LECA.
The ph meter will need calibration every so often, but the TDS meter is rock solid.
I had the 1200w version but the price has gone drastically down these few years. When i bought it it was like 200 bucks. You can get a 4000w now for that much. Used it for three yeard and it died during the move. I had to put my stuff in storage and the moisture cause it corrode. Weird because i used it outside on my porch the three years.
Personal experience, i feel like the 1200w to 2000w is about pefect for a 3ftx3ft or a 4ftx4ft grow bed. Only thing i had issues with was getting tomatoes to bloom. I was too lazy to switch the light to bloom and track it. I am a set and forget kind of person
full spectrum 730-740nm Red IR/3200-4200Knm/5200-6800Knm, spectra that makes most light in the 400-700nm "
I honestly cannot make heads or tails of what that means since it gives multiple numbers and they are not always comparable to the numbers you have stated.
This is the product: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07VL8FZS1/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
Yep, duraskrim for the bed liner. Stock tank is coated with Pond Armor. One kit was enough so it was only ~$48 to coat that. I didn't thin it and I think that lead to air bubbles. Not a big deal but it's rough when you run your hand over it instead of being smooth.
I learned a lot from this book: https://www.amazon.com/Aquaponic-Farmer-Complete-Operating-Commercial/dp/086571858X
Then we built this: https://cirkularodling.se/build-an-aquaponic-indoor-farm-part-1-start-and-prior-knowledge/
I used a 100watt solar panel and a 12v bilge pump wired directly.
Worked great during the day for a few weeks, then the pump burned up. Apparently those motors have a short running life.
I have something similar to this as my turnkey NFT solution. I have a 20g Long tank that flows into a bucket that I use as my sump/bio filter. The pump pulls from that bucket up to the top for flow. I’m in the process of cycling the system now, so here are a few things I’d recommend looking out for if you decide to go with this:
- as others have mentioned, you’ll need to glue the pieces together. I used a cement with color and glued almost all the pieces but left strategic ones unglued in case I need to get into the pipes. So far no issue.
- in order to have one pump in the system, I’m using an overflow system to pull from the tank to the bio filter. You can buy one for like $110 or make one for $10
- within the bio filter I have a mechanical filter on top, which is just some filter mesh that I’ll change out, and then high-surface media below. You can use bioballs or just things like used bottle caps or scrubber nets
- the pump that comes with these kits are notoriously garbage. Mine burned out in less than ten minutes, though most reviews say they’re good for closer to two weeks. Grab yourself a backup for when it dies, and pay attention to the head lift over the GPH
- mine came with some crappy sponges for the seeds. I’d pass on using these and grab some rockwool for a more reliable rooting system.
Hope that helps! Like I said I’m still in the cycle stage but I’m happy to share an update once I get my system stocked.
Thanks for the detailed analysis!
The pH is pretty consistently 6.8 - 7.0. I’ll try chelated iron for now - I’m actually going to be experimenting with adding aerated worm tea to my other system to see if I can naturally enrich the water with micronutrients without buying tons of supplements. The tea changes the color of the water slightly so I want to see the overall effect before I commit to the same approach on this system.
This is the aquarium light I use, and this is the grow bed light. The former has a 24/7 mode and the latter is on a timer that’s 12/12. The windows do not have any UV protection on them, but the tomatoes seem to like the extra light?
I have a stock tank and use a clamp-on UV grow light I purchased on Amazon. I can't find the exact model I have, but it's similar to this. I have the one for planted aquariums, but you can order a lower version for a freshwater one.
I've done it with mqtt. When you already have sensors and get the data to a raspberry pi you can use the software mosquitto on the raspi and this app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=snr.lab.iotmqttpanel.prod&hl=de&gl=US
on your phone.
Awesome information! Thank you.
So I was looking at these, seems like they would clog so much and I could put them on the bottom side of my piping so I wouldn't have to water tighten the lid as much. Is this what you were talking about? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCXTCDC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_7SX1TJ28XE4TKK4W5GRQ
150 sure is a lot of them 🤣
I think you probably need a pump that can build up some pressure to force it through the tiny holes. The pump you have should be able to do something though unless it's broken, it just might not create a fine enough mist. I have a sprayer bar on the self-cleaning filter I built and I went with a shallow well jet pump. They are expensive but they are made to pump water up from a well a pretty good distance so they can build up some pressure. Word of warning, you will absolutely need your pvc to be properly glued, no slip fittings or it will blow apart.
This is the pump I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Shallow-Lanchez-Stainless-Transfer-Irrigation/dp/B07WRFPD56/
It's been working fine so far but I haven't been using it long and it doesn't run for long when it is on so I can't speak to longevity.
Back to the Roots Water Garden, Self-Cleaning Fish Tank That Grows Food, Mini Aquaponic Ecosystem (Great Gardening Gift & Family Project), 3 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZMHWF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PWS5FVE7368SRE3T7AES
Here’s a tiny kit to try. There’s also YouTube tutorials. The biggest thing I would say is just use the appropriate plants for easy level, then advance from there. I also would recommend starting off with starts vs planting seeds in the medium since too much water kills seeds. Basil and strawberries are a good plant to start with
Try this basic book by Richard Bray. It helps you ask and answer some solid questions that get you going in the right direction for you. It’s an easy read and great reference book as well as a starting point. aquaponics: 4 easy and affordable ways to build your own aquaponic system
All I know is that I bought two of these:
I way over purchased. The pumps are used in a Ebb and Flow system with about a 5 foot rise and 1/2" vinyl tubing. I don't run it 24/7 but it is way more pressure then I need. I have a splitter were the second line out that is just feeding back into the tank so I can lower the water pressure going into my trays. The noise from the pump is much less than the water overflow going back into the res.
Hmm. I got lucky with this cheap pump: cheap pump I run it 24/7 but after a change in my design i no longer need much lift but it just about lifted a metre through garden hose.
Kihung Grow Lights for Seed Starting, 4FT T8 Grow Light, 336W(8×42W) High Output Grow Light with High PPFD, Full Spectrum LED Grow Light for Plants, 8-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0811WGKBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WQKCA1C72QG9GZN4BHGD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ive used this stuff but jb weld products ate generally good too. Never used that exact one tho.
PC-Products PC-11 Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Marine Grade, 1lb in Two Cans, Off White 160114 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DZJJGU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NM1JR4T9TAR7Q2N6RCMK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bought this for my wife a couple of years ago and she kept a betta in it for along time.., this is actually what inspired me to learn more about aquaponics... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZMHWF6/ref=twister\_B09P4N3HL4?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A good aquaculture book that will explain nitrogen cycles, ammonia toxicity and other basic water chemistry and biology in layman’s terms.
Here are the other micronutrients:
Many of these are very toxic to fish at very low levels so they need to be applied with a lot of caution. If you aren’t making fruit, you probably don’t need them as the seed you planted contains them. To grow tomatoes they should be added. Zinc is usually present because something with steel probably is in contact with your water. Zinc should be no higher than .03 PPM and copper should be no higher than .02 PPM in your water as they are both toxic to fish at very low levels. It is likely that your RO process left some of this behind and adding more is not needed. I would wait to see a deficiency before doing anything. If I were adding this to a system your size, I would add 15 mL or about 1/2 of an ounce. You probably will not need to add it again for at least a year.
Zn, Mn, B, Cu and Mo are the really small micronutrients.
In a dry tomato leaf you will have 4000 ppm nitrogen and 42, 86, 42, 14 and 3 ppm Zn, Mn, B, Cu and Mo.
https://books.google.com/books?id=ZWQI5SNViXcC&pg=PA62&lpg=PA62&dq=ph+swing+in+a+24+hour+period&source=bl&ots=88b7vMGb_0&sig=2JZKWMVrQuW_Iyv9mcpKliwQph4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=XG0qVabOLMqrogTtjoDIBg&ved=0CDcQ6AEwAg#v... Heres a great paper on the topic in regaurds to pongs in australia of all places. They found as much as a 3 ph change WAY more that I have ever seen or suggested right in your backyard.
http://theaquaponicsource.com/the-effects-of-a-uv-sterilizer-on-an-aquaponics-system/ link to a blog about it
https://books.google.com/books?id=cVG0v8rbqlsC&pg=PA133&lpg=PA133&dq=UV+sterilizers+effect+boron&source=bl&ots=tuHmIQJTCK&sig=GRzksFe9MzjTZy-2hm7_Yxyplfg&hl=en&sa=X&ei=cV8cVZyDN4TdoATo2oG4Ag&ved=0CC8Q6AEwAg#... strait from hydroponic food production
One side effect of UV sterilizers is their effect on micronutrients. Boron, Manganesem were reduced by more than 20% in the first 24 hours and with 100% effect on iron.
add manganese to my statement But yes UV sterilizers are not good for aquaponics unless you have a issue you are using it to solve. The zinc is from my own observations as well.
hygger Electric Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5 in 1 Automatic Fish Tank Cleaning Tool Set Vacuum Water Changer Sand Washer Filter Siphon Adjustable Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RSFC6CP/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_R584ER9DJKD305ERZ71F
I find the ibc totes you have to clean the most often. My round tank get very little build up.
hygger Electric Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5 in 1 Automatic Fish Tank Cleaning Tool Set Vacuum Water Changer Sand Washer Filter Siphon Adjustable Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RSFC6CP/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_R584ER9DJKD305ERZ71F
You can use a filter bag on it and it does a good job of cleaning it. Although I often just shoot the waste into my radial flow filter then clean it up there. That is just because the bags fill up and are not as easy to clean out.
Tetra 77035 TetraFin Floating Variety Pellets, 1.87-Ounce, 185-ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LUOI74/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_CxGHub07YX8QV
It has gone up a bit. Its just fish pond pellets. But for fry its small enough and I have not had issues. As they grow I plan on switching to a cichlid specific food Or blood worms.
I use this flow meter on one of my automated tanks, would be pretty easy to implement a sketch alerting you once the flow rate has dropped below a certain value, and a power loss alert system like the following setup.
So far for indoor lettuce I started my seeds using these, but I plan to upgrade to a stronger light for maturing the plants. My current plan is to get Spider Farber SF-2000 but only because I have a 2x4ft space.
I'd love to show you photos but I can't quite seem to log into imgur at the moment, but for lettuce these lights are doing great.
If you dont mind the color of the light I have one these in my sump for my fishtank and it make the plants grow like crazy. I just hooked it up to a timer, an alexa smart plug in this case.
You want to intermittently fload the grow bed.
Here is a programmable timer that will turn the motor on and off. Probably like 15 minutes on and 4 hours off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096CNZZXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Second, you have no sludge/bio filter. This needs to be added.
Third, where is the aeration?
Fourth, if you protect the roots or circulate water to another bed, you could have a float bed. Here is an example: http://perpetualfood.com/floating-grow-rafts/ You need to used closed cell styrofoam or the styrofoam will waterlog.
Do you have the room to put a small greenhouse around it? Something like this, then you could get a small space heater or heat lamp and/or sun if it's outside. Sorry about the huge link!
I've been using these pumps for years(there's various companies that make the exact same pump) on my aquaponics systems. They take very little power, move alot of water, are quiet, and honestly they seem to last for years. I had.one die after.it was like 3 or 4 years old, but for price you could easily buy a backup, which is highly recommended with any pumps, as failure can happen(even with manufacture defects). One thing to note that they use 25 watts of power at lowest flow, and 35 watts at the highest flow. You can use pvc fitting qith this or poly connectors amd some flex hose, fittings with no issues.
Sorry I've never shares links here before not sure of that worked or not
Actually a pH of 6.5 is better for the plants then a higher pH. If you are running tilapia, this pH is fine but unless you have a lot of phosphates in the water probably indicates your carbonates are low or your nitrates are high.
When you run hydroponics you try and keep pH between 5.5 and 6.5. The reason for a higher pH in aquaponics is the fish like a higher pH and it is a compromise.
Don’t focus on pH. Focus on alkalinity. Here is a carbonate hardness test that does a good job and is only $7.
Alkalinity (carbonate hardness) should be about 70-90 which on this test is between 3-5 drops to change to color.
The reason to focus alkalinity is your pH will gravitate towards a certain pH given your alkalinity. What happens is carbonates are CaCO3 (calcium carbonate) and when they encounter H (hydrogen), the carbonates become CO2 (carbon dioxide) and H2O. H is what causes water to be acidic while OH causes it to be basic. If you have high carbonates, the CO2 in the water will equalize with the CO2 in the air and your pH will gravitate to a certain pH. This is why carbonates are a buffer. If you drop a lot of acid into water with a lot of carbonates, the pH will drop a lot at first and then climb back up as the carbonates neutralize the hydrogen and the CO2 equalizes with the air.
If you focus on pH, you are not getting at the main cause of it not being in the right place. A pH monitor just tells you something is off.
Lengthen out your fill and drain cycles.
What kind of media do you have? How long does it stay wet? These questions change from system to system. I current have rocks in my system and it takes about 20 minutes to fill. I then don’t repeat it for about 4.5 hours.
In the middle of the summer when it get above 90 and is humid in the greenhouse, I changed it to flood once an hour but now the highs are around 70.
Here is a timer that allows for really good control:
I got a couple of these recently and I'm pleased. Loads of light, a dimmer, you can use them in a daisy chain w only one plugged to the wall, and super minimal design, everything is attached to a heatsink that acts as the main chassis. The hanging kit it comes with is pretty slick too, though i didn't use the fabric cord just the metals ones directly into the ceiling.
Alright, First things first: This used to be an office building so we do have 3 more bathrooms. I grow arugula, lemon basil, lemon thyme and spinache. Though I so not really care to actually eat it. It's more like a little test (I have a bigger, prettier tank planned). Those are Planorbarius corneus, post horn snails (atleast that's their name in German). I added only one Anentome Helena because I didn't want it to kill all the other snails and reproduce like crazy. So now I hope to kind of controll the Planorbarius population while still enjoying the advantage of keeping the algae low. I got 9 spark tetras, 1 Trigonostigma heteromorpha (it was falsely sold to me as a 10th spark tetra at the petstore), 2 Corydoras pygmaeus and 5 red fire shrimp. The growlight I use is one I already had: Spider Farmer LED Grow Lampe SF 1000 LED https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07TYM5K36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_SG5R627G4BN199PF79CT And yea I really do need to tidy up.
Try one of these clear U tube for overflow boxes you can use a air line tube suck out the bubbles it’s the same as what you have created except it’s clear so you can see the bubble build up and remove it as it does
Check out the google group - https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/aquaponicsvictoriabc
I set it up for locals to share relevant info/experience/seek help.
So far there are 20 or so people, 4 participants, and 16 lurkers ;)
I'm also open to seed exchanging any time.
Try this link again:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.datascapeindustrial.harvester&authuser=2
Was a region problem. I'm new to this...
Why dont you just go buy some pH down (phosphoric acid).
Its only $13 and youll only need like 300ml.
I slowly added it while I had my fish in my 120Gal system and they tolerated it well.
The beaker? I accidentally broke the test vial so I needed to improvise.
ULAB Glass Beakers Shot Glass, Vol. 50ml, 3.3 Borosilicate Griffin Low form with Printed Graduation, Pack of 4, UBG1019 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9C61SS/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_GDWiu77N1QGaZ
I don't know if it translate, but in DWC systems you want in, or about a 1:4 ratio per minute. So a 15 litter pump should be able to create aerobic conditions for a 60 gallon system. Here is what I'm using now, and this should be enough for your needs.
Hydrofarm ACTIVEAQUAPUMP4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JPEVMC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_J8QZ679CZTCFN43SDCYZ
I'm going to be doing the same, but with a 275 gallon IBC tote at some point.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082S7VSX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have one of these that hangs off a water pipe in my basement. It covers about the same size as a 10 gallon tank. It comes with a hanger but it hangs down 5 inches off the pipe. I'm sure you can use zip ties to hang off the metal shelf unit. T5 fixtures are good too. recommend you have lights that are as long as your grow bed
I found this book really easy and interesting, and maybe could be a good starting point
https://www.amazon.com/Aquaponic-Farmer-Complete-Operating-Commercial/dp/086571858X/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=aquaponics+farm&qid=1630915682&sr=8-10
If you want them, it looks like Amazon sells some. Would just measure to make sure it's the right size, I don't know if there are different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Flameer-Durable-Plastic-Value-Batterfly/dp/B07HG7LFCF
https://www.amazon.com/Goodqueen-Nozzle-Fittings-Female-Thread/dp/B07F3VYZL1/
Kudos on the design. Mind sharing how much the shop charged to make it? I've always assumed custom fabrication would be too expensive for me.
I have a couple suggestions for adding lights to the aquarium.
simply cut a hole in the top and get a standard size bulb shroud/socket. Won't look the best but it will work. I'm thinking something like this but take off the clamp. A regular household LED or CFL should be plenty for the fish. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ94C/
get a waterproof LED strip like your grow lights but fill spectrum/white and glue it to the bottom of the lid. Just make sure the adhesive actually works on acrylic since plastics can be weird about glue. This method keeps the integrity of your design and is minimal work.
have the shop fabricate a clear lid and the ambient light should be enough being that is near the window and grow lights
A lot of the other suggestions from commentors are good. The main ones I'll point out are:
Put an air stone in the tank. Helps the fish and the plants. I prefer the long bar type air stones.
Decide whether you want DWC or NFT. For DWC, add air stones to each trough. For NFT, adjust location of drains for each trough to minimize standing water.
Up the lighting. Maybe use reflective shroud for the lights to direct them at the plants. An over the top (and not the most efficient) suggestion to go with your design esthetics would be to build a light box the size of your rack, put a white translucent front on it, and load it with florescents or LEDs. Something like this but with an opaque box to match the aquarium https://youtu.be/Rv3DvNmYIVE
pH stands for power of hydrogen. Acids are H+ while bases are OH-.
Alkalinity is CO3.
I would suggest this test for alkalinity:
It is easy to use because the color changes making it obvious where your alkalinity is.
When you add acid aka hydrogen, the hydrogen combines with the CO3 to form H20 (water) and CO2 (carbon dioxide). The alkalinity (CO3) neutralizes the acid (H+) and acts as a buffer. The CO2 in the water then equalizes with the CO2 in the air. (CO2 leaves the water) What is left is water. This process is sped up with aeration. So in highly alkaline water, when you add acid, the pH drops at first and the goes back up as the CO2 equalizes out.
To get your pH down before adding fish, add hydrochloric acid and aerate. The H+ molecules will start neutralizing the alkalinity. At first the pH will drop and then it will come back up as the alkalinity reacts with the hydrogen and the CO2 equalizes with the air. The chlorine will just evaporate out.
Once the alkalinity is used up, the H+ will stay and the pH will stay down permanently.
The problem with doing this with fish is the fish don’t like to be in the water while this process is happening.
The ideal alkalinity is around 70-90 ppm. At this point if you have the right amount of nitrates and phosphorus (pH down is a good source) your pH will be stable around 6.9 to 7.
Hard water has a lot of alkalinity. You will constantly need to treat your water with hydrochloric acid (or substitute) and let the water sit before adding to the system or buy an RO filter (much easier).
The good news is if your alkalinity drops, you can just add some hard water to bring it up along with calcium levels.
They have lots of shade "tarps" these days (shade cloth, but with grommets) that would be great for your use case. Just need a frame of sorts. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Sunblock-Grommets-Greenhouse-Swimming/dp/B075J93DTJ/
Not endorsing that one specifically, but that style. They come in all different sizes.
Thanks! I’ve been thinking of replacing my light.
This is the one I currently have. What wattage would you recommend upgrading to?
Great!
Do you start with RO water? Starting with RO water is starting with a blank slate. Nothing goes in that you didn’t put there. I would recommend only adding RO water after you send your water off to be tested.
You should be able to check your own alkalinity. A drop test is found here for less than 10 pounds.
You should also be able to check your pH and water temperature.
pH drives your plants ability to take up nutrients. Alkalinity drives your pH. Alkalinity is usually the carbonate CO3. Acid is H. When H is added to water with carbonates the CO3 combines and turns into CO2 and H2O. The carbon dioxide (CO2) then over time equalizes with the CO2 in the air. This process takes time so being able to measure both gives you a full picture of where your pH is headed.
The grow light I use is from Amazon https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07WJNLPZ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_FW20JS5QEBA6C7E83Z0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I also have it on an Amazon echo plug and it's set to turn on when the sun rises and off at sunset.
As far as fish, I have a bunch of guppys, a few coty cats, and a bristlenose pleco. So I fed them a combination of tropical flakes, sinking shrimp pellets, and algea wafers
TBH the one I started with didn't even have a model. It was an 'amazon special" that was about 150W i think? I'm up to 1000W custom built lighting now so I can't give you a model either, sorry man.
Just a quick search on Amazon for "LED GROW LIGHT 1000W" and I found this one.
https://www.amazon.ca/FSGTEK-MeanWell-Dimmable-Spectrum-Seedling/dp/B08F7CXY6N/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=led+grow+light+1000w&qid=1619662908&sr=8-10
Meanwell seems to be a really good name in lighting ballasts from what I can tell.
I use a bilge pump since they're almost all 12v and cost about $15. The cap comes off and you can use silicone to glue it into a 2" pvc union. Fits perfectly into my aquaponics set-up and is very cheap to replace.
I use a Bilge Pump. They're pretty much all 12v DC and cost ~$15. I take the cap off and silicone it inside a 2" PVC union which I attach directly to my tanks.
They're powered by a 100W solar panel (~$90 on Amazon) and a 10a solar controller ($20).
The pump uses 2 Amps and is rated for 550 GPH with zero head. So if you get a 50AH battery, it'll last 2 days without any sunlight. The 100W panel should be able to keep the battery charged and run the pump with 6 hours of sunlight a day.
I bought one of these a few years ago when I first started https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012QGR2TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TyJILePiLvfZP . All you need is a beta or goldfish and a light weight plant like an herb. Once you have your fish and the plant roots in the water all you have to do is feed the fish and do a 50/50 water change (water removed can be used on soil plants). My little beta grew a two leaf 4inch vine to well over 15 feet in about 3 years