Thanks! I LOVE this cam!! It was the best $47.99 I’ve ever spent! It’s wireless/Bluetooth capable and has an app so you can watch from your phone. What’s even better is that BPs generally sleep all day, well so does the camera! This saves the life of the battery tremendously; I charge it about once a week. Here’s the link where I got it… I see it went up a few dollars since I bought mine, but still worth it!!
Edit: since this is getting upvotes I guess I'll link to the actual link on Amazon Incase anyone wants to spend the 3 dollars and give it a read. The reviews are pretty riveting too
Keep your heat mat on a thermostat! Check Amazon for the Hydrofarm Jumpstart. Do this ASAP, before anything else. Snakes don't feel pain the same way we do, and they have been known, commonly, to literally cook on an unregulated heat mat. Jumpstart
Make sure you have lots of clutter in that tank, and at least two hides which would be relatively snug fits. It is a very large tank for a young BP. Use black/dark paper to cover the back and sides of the tank. BPs like to feel safe, and that will help especially since the tank is so large.
Moving around at night is normal. They are nocturnal creatures. Being nocturnal, you should look into switching the lamp to a ceramic heat emitter (think light bulb, but without the light, only heat). Artificial light is unnecessary for them.
Don't handle them for 36-48 hours after feeding. You don't want to stress them and cause them to regurgitate.
Try to keep temps around 82, even at night, and no higher than 88 or so during the day
Right?! I have tried several types of suction cups and to no avail… they fall off so easily. I’m so happy to have finally found one that works great!! One hook will hold up to 6 1/2 lbs. Here’s where I bought them: Heavy Duty Vacuum Suction Cups (Size Small)
Hide on the right looks a little big, you want something that fits them in size (don’t quote me but you want them to be touching 2 or 3 sides of the hide) The clutter is amazing. For looks id replace the tub with something like this, and put some moss in with is to help it keep humidity.
I got it off Amazon! Pioneer Pet Swan Pet Drinking Fountain: 80oz Water Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJMSBXZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_0mb3FbDKSZSM6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 it’s one of the smallest ones I saw that still kept water in the bottom. Very easy to put together, simple design and the flow is very gentle so she doesn’t seem startled or put off by it.
i use this brand
You can but any general reptile/pet store should carry some. Amazon typically has better deals though. Most go with the Zoo Med Eco Earth Bricks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TNLIANQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3PNUN7H1KV96E&psc=1
One of those bricks should be enough to cover the bottom of your terrarium and with changing every 1-2 months $30 of substrate will last you a while
I sell art prints here, mostly of animals. It's not up yet, but I'm working on a painting of a BP I'm going to put prints of up for sale soon. If anyone is happy to check it out I'd really appreciate it!
Seeing lots of stories on grapevine/driftwood becoming moldy in BP vivariums.
Has anyone had success/heard about people using non-toxic water-based polycrylic to seal wood after its been cleaned? I wish to order an extra large, one piece of grapevine to run across my entire 4x2x2ft pvc enclosure.
Any advice on types of wood to prevent mold, and/or using sealants to prevent?
A kitchen scale works well. They sell them for use in baking, and they aren't very expensive. I got one at the grocery store, or you can order one online.
Thank you! Jimbo was all over it as soon as I put him in for the first time. I got it here:
Do it! This is the camera we bought. I still need to find a way to install it inside the tank since the mesh reflects too much ambient light at night to really see him.
this is the exact one i bought. it’s the stuff they use like with cricut machines to cut out letters and shapes and stick em on stuff! just think of it as a big heavy duty sticker. once it’s on, it’s hard to get off. it’s completely black out so it makes the enclosure pretty dark even with one side still “open”.. but my guy has liked that i think.
ORACAL 651 Permanent Vinyl, 1 Pack, Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC0XTPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q82R5RB9MFP463310TPF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I already have a good dimming/pulse proportional thermostat to use on the RHP. Are these cages fairly easy to modify to add in UVB and halogen lights?
Only one left and it’s a good brand. I would buy this one.
The cloth is porous. It allows air through. You put the snake in the bottom and carefully draw most of the excess material into your hands and then tie it off. It makes a tight, secure area where they will feel safe and won't be able to move around in unsafe ways as you speed up, slow down, and go around curves and corners.
Do not ever use hand warmers with a reptile. They get extremely hot with a fast peak and fast decay. They will easily burn a reptile at their hottest, and do not stay a consistent temperature. UniHeat packs are designed for live animals. They peak at 100F and stay there for a very long time. The link I provided are the forty hour packs. They also make 72 hour packs. They should still be wrapped to prevent direct contact, but they don't produce the dangerous temps of hand warmers.
However, you should not need to provide any heat during transport as long as the car is comfortable for you. It's better to transport them in the cabin with you without additional heat, and use a small tub with a cheap UTH and thermostat when you stop for the night.
Sounds good, I would try switching to a coconut husk of some sort as it will hold the humidity way better (I prefer eco earth) and a thermostat regulates temperature (a thermometer measures it). So you plug your lamps/heat mats into the the thermostat and place the thermostat probe in your enclosure, and it will regulate the heat by turning the lights/mat/heat emitter, etc on and off to stay at a consistent temperature. Otherwise they could run too hot and injure your snake. Here is an affordable one many people use - https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108Â°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=thermostat+jumpstart&qid=1610396946&sr=8-7
Inkbird is on amazon, is affordable but well made. If you want something nice Spyder Robotics has some really nice ones. Inkbirds are trustable but Spyder has some nice extra safety features in theirs and gives more consistent temps. Inkbirds are gonna shut off when they get to whatever temp you set that at and then turn back on once it's about 2 degrees cooler than what you set it at. Spyder's Herpstats will modulate how much electricity goes to the pad to keep it more consistent. I used ones like Inkbirds when I first got my BP, while saving up for the Spyder Robotics Herpstat 2.
Just something I picked up at Petsmart years ago and was handed-down from my other snakes. I searched through Amazon and found it again - "Penn-Plax Shale Step Ledge and Cave Hide-Out" - Amazon link
It's definitely a versatile and not bad looking hide.
Food Scale with USB Rechargeable, 11lb Digital Kitchen Scale Weight Grams and oz for Baking Cooking, Stainless Steel and Tempered Glass Waterproof Body, 1g/0.1oz Precise Graduation, Batteries Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YQNPC6B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yYfuFbAJ17AAY
These are nice and you can switch them between metric and imperial.
The biggest thing to keep in mind is they usually crap out after three months but based off a few reviews supposedly this one lasts about a year. Here's the amazon link.
I had the same one(s) and just replaced them with smart outlets instead and I’m in love. I have them set for specific on/off times and can also turn them on and off from my phone if need be. They’re pretty inexpensive and no more clicking sound.
meross Smart Plug Mini
I don't want to sound rude or mean however, if you don't have the funds to provide a decent enclosure for your snake perhaps, don't get a snake?
If your snake (God forbid) was to have some health problem, the vet bill is really high (and at least here in the UK, it is especially high for reptiles).
That being said, check Ebay and other 2nd hand websites, check on FB market as well.
You can get a digital hydrometer/thermometer (combo) from Amazon, they're fairly inexpensive, see one example below: https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Hygrometer-pet-Keeping-Temperature-Greenhouse/dp/B08QM7C9GJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=thermometer+hydrometer+combo+reptile&qid=1627269528&sprefix=thermometer+hydro&sr=8-2-spons&psc...
Try to add some wooden branches for your snake to climb on and more clutter in general.
I wish you and your snake good luck.
I have something similar. I found a cool mist humidifier, then used food grade hose to route the mist through a drilled hole in the acrylic at the top.
One thing you may want to look into is a hygrostat - like a thermostat for humidity. I have an analog hygrometer as well because the sensor for the hygrostat can give a lot of different readings in the tank. I set the levels on the hygrostat and it turns the humidifier on/off as needed. I think the humidifier is on for a total of 30 minutes/day. I use this one. I'm sure there are others now, and it looks like some are even becoming wireless now.
I see a lot of people who don't like the cool mist humidifiers saying that it makes the tank wet. I haven't noticed this problem with my system.
Thank you for the feedback, those are all great points!
I'm pretty new to keeping snakes. I got my girl, Peaches, about a year ago from my friend who moved out of state and couldn't take her.
She is getting pretty big, about 4'6". She lives in a big Sterilite tub right now but it's only about 14" tall. When I got her she came with a 20 gallon glass tank with a reptile carpet and a heat rock. She had been in super low humidity for a long time and wasn't shedding well, but I've got her humidity between 60% and 70% consistently now that she's in the tub. I also got rid of the heat rock and now use a space heater and a UTH hooked up to a thermostat so her temps stay consistent.
I love her so much and I want to get a really nice enclosure for her.
Would a tank like Like this be a good choice for a snake her size?
Yeah regular tin foil worked a bit for me at first, but I ended up going with foil tape for my screen tops. It held humidity alot longer.
Here's what I used
I took your advice and I'm going to use the one I ordered until Tuesday when this new one I ordered comes in. Check out the link. I went with a wifi one so I can get alerts on my phone if there's temperature changes or something happens
It’s actually a fogging machine, so it releases less moisture but at a steady pace vs. the misting machines that spray everything wet. Here’s the link to where we got it from. 😉
there are plenty of cord clips with holes for screws, and an open design that allows for easily snapping a cord in and removing it. i have these for cord management in all my snake cages.
i found these on amazon! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HWSLJ97/
most of the cord clips i found in person are self-adhesive only, which is immensely annoying, so i had to do some searching online. these clips have a self-adhesive backing but they also have two screw holes. the adhesive was very useful for figuring out initial placement, and one screw is plenty to secure the clip.
Here's both items, absolutely recommend, it even has an alarm to tell u when ur humidity drops out of ideal range so u know to refill the water tank
Honestly for leds, I just go with whatever's cheap on Amazon. Something along these lines is what I tend to use. For uvb, I swear by Arcadia's fixtures and bulbs however.
Not too sure sorry, this is the lid though Zilla 30 (Breeder) & 40 (Breeder) Gallon Critter Cage Replacement Cover w/Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYDXW6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_rpt.Fb4QK68VY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
pretty much anything from acurite is good. this model is my favorite, i put the main unit on the cool side for ambient temps/humidity then use the probe for warm hide temps.
Id put him in your bath tub with warm water, just enough water to cover 1/2 of his body. Most bath tubs slant so we will fill ours up till there is 1/3" on the shallow side and that gives the far side an 1" or so. Enough that they can soak well. use Warm water maybe 90*, and let him explore in there for a bit. Reheat the water as needed since it will cool. Then create a humidity box and put that in your tank with him. Using paper towels and a container with a hole in it so he can get in and out. That should help remove the shed right away. Make sure you have a good Temp/Humidity gauge. I use my Govee in all my tanks. they are only $10-15 and work very well. Remember to keep the humidity above 55%, and around 70% as soon as they go into blue.
All I can really do is strongly recommend putting it on some type of dimming thermostat at least 😅 I hate to sound pushy but temps over 95°F can cause neurological damage and I’d hate for your snake to get hurt! Ceramic heat emitters can get the ambient temperature quite warm without doing much to heat the ground, so measuring with only a temperature gun isn’t entirely accurate.
Edit: here’s a link to a cheap one on Amazon, Fluker's Clamp Lamp with Dimmer - 5.5", Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003H1P1CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_eqq8Fb9J2ZVAX
I usually use these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085G4R4CX/ because they come in a variety of sizes, are easy to clean and have no sharp edges. They aren't as cute as some of the natural looking ones from petsmart, but the snakes love them and they're so practical
I have a couple different things depending on the length of outage. I live in New England so winter outages could be a problem what with the cold and all. I have some heat packs (the kind they use specifically for reptiles https://www.amazon.com/Uniheat-10-Pack-Hour-Heat/dp/B07J3WTQYC, not human hand warmers - those get too hot). And then I also have a hot water bottle with a cloth covering (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HF1F672/). No electricity also means no hot water, but I have a camping stove that I could use to heat water up outside to put in the water bottle if needed.
When I worked at a zoo and we had to transport snakes we would put them in a snake bag and then inside a cooler with the lid cracked and a hot water bottle inside. Since coolers are insulated it helps keep the heat in, just make sure you leave the lid cracked open with something for air flow. Knock on wood I haven't lost power in all the time I've had my BP but if I lost it for more than an hour or so in the fall/winter months I would put him in a bag in the cooler with the hot water bottle and leave the lid cracked open.
Coconut husk is a good alternative. My go to is Reptichip from Amazon. More than you'll need for your enclosure, but that means you have extra around for cage cleaning. Holds humidity at the right levels and is pretty sanitary. And it's cheap!
I realize this is too late, but the reptile shipping packs can be purchased through amazon https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Hour-UniHeat-Heat-Packs/dp/B00G2K63XU/ref=sr_1_30_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1515095348&sr=8-30-spons&keywords=reptile+shipping+heat+pack&psc=1
and that will certainly last longer than a couple days and can be placed inside the tub wrapped in a paper towel.
Do you have any other heat source in your place that does not run on electricity like a fireplace?
A belly temp of 75 is not the end of the world if its for a couple days and the snake is able to remain coiled over it. Have you considered the hot water bottle inside of the tub wrapped in a towel? I'm just thinking of how to raise the temp in a small controlled space like a shoe box sized bin or slightly larger.
First off. Every 2-4 days is crazy. 1 approximately sized meal weekly is all he needs. If he refuses wait a week and try again. The constant food in his face is a source of great stress and will put any BP off food. Secondly. The pet store not having coconut bedding is no excuse. The habitat temps amd humidity should be established before introducing a new animal. I never run out of appropriate bedding. Always keep extra everything stocked! Amazon always has reptichip available
I use this stuff. LINK It's basically brown plastic tubing with metal wire inside of it. The hardest part is attaching it. Suction cups or hot glue didn't work. Ended up using zip ties through the vent holes.
i use these zoomed ones and i like them. my ball python started on rat pups and is now on small rats and these have worked perfectly for each prey size.
Doesn't have to be this size obviously lol but here's what I mean by real heat tape that's flat https://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape/21-heat-tape-connected/
Here's a cheaper thermostat I used this one for over a year and it worked amazing. I did end up switching to the VE ones though. They have might drop and stuff for people who are into that and it also has an alarm if Temps get to high or low but here's a cheaper version https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Germination-MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B000NZZG3S?pd_rd_w=TybPc&pf_rd_p=cfa4cf35-69cb-416c-866a-04cb565837d4&pf_rd_r=K4D477PTSTMV8T5XHYRS&pd_rd_r=0550521d-5f04-4ed3-8687-3f9c00b8e11e&pd_rd_wg=w...
a tip for frozen/thawed....make sure it is not just thawed, but warmed up pretty good...not so much it will burn the snake, but put it in hot water for 5 minutes before attempting to feed. My BP acts like it doesn't even see the rat if it's not warm.
Secondly...get a set of forceps!....they will get the rat like 8 inches away from your hand, so you don't need to worry about getting tagged!
Here ya go!
To determine feeder size you're going to want to use a gram or kitchen scale. You can buy one off of amazon for $10-30. Here is a good one for $15-20!
To determine feeder size, start by weighing your snake. Make sure to zero the scale, first! Your ideal feeder size is 1/10th of your snake's weight, or 10%. You can calculate it with this formula:
[Snake's weight in grams]*0.1=[Ideal feeder weight]
However there is some leeway on prey size. 10% of the snake's body weight is ideal, but between 5-15% is acceptable.
Please let me know if you need additional help. If you can give me your snake's body weight, then I can suggest what size prey item to feed them.
It's built in, it's just a "dial" dimmer. I have an aftermarket one i plan to use for the 4x2x2, just bc it will give me a little more control..
This is the lamp I currently use. I order my CHE bulbs from amazon, too. They're just cheaper and the same quality as the pet store ones..
I have this one for both my BP and my kingsnake. It has a built-in battery so if the power goes out, the clock won't reset and it won't lose your settings.
Just make sure you play with it a bit and understand it before you use it full time, because despite being pretty simple, it didn't immediately click with me how the programs worked.
This is what I use
I bought a triangle and rectangle net. First day they were up I caught him hanging around on both.
Oh, and Zilla has mail-in rebates for $15 so that's another plus. Turns out it is company-wide. https://slickdeals.net/f/12015047-40-gallon-zilla-deluxe-critter-cage-40br-47-50-after-15-rebate-pre-tax
Got this one. Price went up but it’s great
Here is the one I use thermostat link
It is called the ink bird ITC 306T. It has worked wonderfully with all of my reptile. Please make sure the probe end is VERY secure so it does not fall out (I use electrical tape with mine). If it falls out, it can cause risk of burns. Good luck and please keep us updated.
You can get coconut coir on amazon for $10: https://www.amazon.com/Burpee-Organic-Coir-Compressed-Starting/dp/B078PQLHX4
It works fantastic for humidity. For my babies I use 100% coconut coir, for my adults I use about 50% coir, 50% chunk to save a little bit of money and because the combo works really good for locally absorbing poop/urates. Buy it...like now.
Also I highly highly suggest getting a scale! It makes feeding sooo much easier instead of guessing at the “thickest part of the body” thing. This is the one I have and it has worked perfectly for me for 2 years now. My biggest snakes are too big for the bowl but I just use a bigger bowl with it and tare it.
I found some with a suction cup for pretty cheap on Amazon, which is nice because I can attach them anywhere in the tank. I ended up getting this one but here's a 4-pack for $15.
You can use a locking bin with air holes or something like this carrier with a latch
I'm seeing that these are recommended as non-colored heat bulbs. I do 100 watts for her. I will also continue turning this off at night
Amazon just had a sale on the 4x2x2 for like $290 but it's now $342. Might go back on sale. Amazon link
Wayfair isn't the place for deals.
Do you have a long pair of feeder tongs? It was something I used to do as a new owner was hold rats by hand. My snakes would target my hand sometimes, since it smelled like rat and was a warm moving target.
Something like this: tongs link
I'll start by saying it looks a like you've got a ton of places for the snake to hang out and hide, it looks a lot better than like 90% of what I see online.
Is there a basking lamp? It looks like there might be on side but I can't tell.
You've got a lot of vertical space you could use, and what is the relative humidity of the air in your house normally? I always have issues without enclosing the screen top.
I don't trust the dial gauge hygrometers. I got two of these guys on Amazon, they're about 2"x2" so they don't take up much space.
Help! We live in a pretty cool climate, so we got a ceramic heat emitter, a deep heat projector, and a uvb.
I got this double dome thinking it could house the projector and uvb but the packaging says it's not suitable for a ceramic heat emitter. It doesn't say whether you can use it with a projector.
My partner also bought one of those regular metal clamp lamps, similar to this but it doesn't have a ceramic socket.
Do we basically have 2 unusable heating systems because neither one is suitable for a ceramic heat emitter OR a deep heat projector?
I’m a new BP parent so I’m sure more experienced owners might have a better recommendation, but I’ve been using the Govee Wifi thermometer/hygrometer (linked below) I’ve got one on my warm and one on my cool side and I also got Govee wifi outlets so that I can control all my heating/accessories as a backup in case my digital thermostat controller malfunctions or something. Im that over-prepared/protective kind of pet owner so it might be a bit excessive but gives me peace of mind about my baby ball, Nova 🥰.
Govee WiFi Thermometer Hygrometer H5103, Indoor Bluetooth Temperature Humidity Sensor with Electronic Ink Display, App Notification Alert, Free Data S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5KF2J34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_hA2Ec3ucH9HGs
Not sure where you live but I’ve seen a product called Drylock used and a pond sealant Pond Shield
If I were you, because I think you have the size I’d buy these https://www.chewy.com/flukers-mini-sun-dome-lighting/dp/129142 and the CHE https://www.chewy.com/flukers-ceramic-reptile-heat-emitter/dp/129149
You can get some super cheap hydrometers on Amazon. I use these personally and they come in a 4 pack so you can keep them in multiple parts of your enclosure. I stick them along the sides with that blue sticky tack. Keeps them nice and firmly in place and they won't get stuck to the snake.
I see a lot of responses, you seem pretty aware as a keeper. Outside of what you’ve been told- misting/add water to substrate, I would simply use a humidifier. Here’s a link to one on Amazon I use. It has been running non-stop for a year. I set it back in summer and up in winter.
COOSPIDER Reptile Fogger... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VVNP7F3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s easy to setup and you’ll find your snake basking in its mist. Once you dial this thing in- it keeps the humidity constant.
This look good? What kinda dimmer you use? Sorry for all the questions just very new and people are telling me different stuff
1. Using a lamp stand so the light is not directly on the lid of the enclosure (will help with keeping it a little cooler during the day)
2. Getting another dome light (pref 8.5 or 10in) and get a ceramic heat emitter
3. Use the heat emitter with the thermostat and NOT the light. I have found that turning the “sun” off and on multiple times throughout the day confuses his sleep cycle and he won’t leave his cave if done so. I leave my heat emitter on overnight and have it set to a comfortable night temp. I’ve used a few different thermostats but the ones I’ve been getting recently are
I think you need to make some changes. These hides on amazon are fairly cheap and are much more suitable then what you have in there… you could get a couple and set them up a variety of ways. Bury one, attach one to the top as a sky hide, fill one with moss, etc. You can also get branches from outside and bake them in the oven to make them safe, so that’s free! You should cover the sides because the openness will make your snake uncomfortable. Also, you need a different type of substrate. Coconut husks is a good option that will hold humidity much better. I don’t see anywhere for water, heating, or UVB. All of which you also need!
Don't get that one! They will escape in the middle of the lid. Find something like this ziploc tub with latches all the way around
You're really overreacting. Just don't have the snake out in the same room as the cat, and if the cat has access to the reptile room and you have a screen top, fashion something to prevent the cat from getting on the lid. I use these. There's really nothing else to worry about.
Should fix him up
Heat mats just go in one direction. Buy this to protect your snake. https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3I6WBWA5NB1DY&keywords=heat+mat+thermostat&qid=1664025156&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjQ2IiwicXNhIjoiMy4zOCIsInFzcCI6IjMuMT...
I'm a big fan of using self adhesive foil to cover the back and sides. Pretty cheap, easy to use and looks pretty good. If I want to be fancy I add cork on the inside and foil on the outside.
so could i just get a PVC panel cut to size and then drill it directly on top where the mesh would be? if you or anyone knows of a video tutorial showing something similar to what needs to be done that'd be amazing, it's probably simpler than i'm imagining but just don't want to mess it up!
the link didn't work, but was it something like this? will that type of lock still work if the doors aren't overlapped (they don't seem to be in the site's pictures)?
thank you so much, i appreciate it!!
https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Secure-Gecko-Durable-Material/dp/B07MWCXZLL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2DLIIPG7O5LDO&keywords=snake+hide&qid=1663555105&sprefix=snake+hide%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 these are the ones i use for my boy. i like them lots! whether there's a size good for yours idk. i would suggest keeping the old hides too for enrichment, maybe lean them against each other. try to make climbing material. the texture is also good incase they need to rub on anything for sheds.
Suction cup bamboo logs to attach to the glass of your enclosure. It opens up a lot of underutilized vertical space for your noodle.
I've only used Acurite for two months now, so I can't say they're definitely better, but I have a better feeling about them. I'll give you the flaws for the specific ones I bought, these. You have to buy two, it's only a pack of one. You might be able to find a better pair though, or someone else will come along with more advice! I'm also a fairly new keeper, I've only had my girl for about two years now and she's my only snake.
I saw a review saying that over time the screen becomes more dull, but it's still readable.
You can't adjust their humidity settings, and they're usually wrong. The fact that the humidity is wrong is usually a problem with most hydrometers though, but some, like the Govees, let you adjust it. The solution is to do the salt test, figure out by how much they're off and just have that written down and do the mental math when you want to check.
They're fairly big and a bit clunky. My girl knocks them over a lot, and I have to reach in and set them back upright. But this will happen with a lot of digital ones, you might be able to mcgyver a way to set them up on the wall so this isn't a problem, but I haven't lol
Indeed, I also not misting anymore. Just gonna keep the plants watert and keep an eye on what the humidity does. It has been 2 weeks since the last misting and there aren’t a lot left anymore :).
And they aren’t super bad, but just annoying xD like the tiny fruitsflies..
I use 2 Govee
Thermoneters. They show the temp and humidity.
My dude has also knocked, the one on the left, over a few times. The one on the cold side is in the lamp cage 🤣 (CHE is not needed in the summer) so that one is safe! The other one is now jammed in the wood xD
Thank you, she is very dear to me :). The skull was a birthday present, but I think it was this one on amazon:
So grabbing a CHE + https://www.amazon.com/Century-BNQ-T7B-Digital-Cooling-Controller/dp/B01LZV591B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3U063KBU5956S&keywords=dimming+thermostat+reptile&qid=1661370230&sprefix=dimming+ther%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 I should be good to go?
I got that same hide on Amazon. It's awesome but be prepared to make the hole larger when she gets bigger. My 2yr old BP was about to get stuck in the hole even though the inside is plenty big for him. I used a dremel tool to make it larger and now it's perfect.
Husbandry is nuanced and a lot of ppl and sources have different information but I'll give you some things NOT to do:
No heat rocks, they can burn the baby. Also no uncovered heat sources. Heat mats go under the enclosure on the outside of it. Bulbs are sometimes used but I personally prefer heat mats. Additionally, make sure your heating source is on a thermostat to make sure it doesn't get above or below a certain temperature.
No feeding live unsupervised, ideally you should be feeding frozen thawed but sometimes a snake that's grown up on live (not sure if this one has, just mentioning this just in case) struggles to switch, so if you HAVE to feed raw, never leave the animal in the cage with your snake and never leave your snake unsupervised.
No sand. It can cause impaction when your snake feeds.
Don't feed without feeding tongs. Unless ur not bothered at the idea of being bitten, but if your snake bites and latches, then getting them off can stress them out. Tongs keep the food smell off ur hands and keeps ur hands further out of reach.
Try not to handle it for a while after feeding. Snakes regurgitate their food when stressed. Not only does this add more stress but it can hurt them.
Something TO do is keep an eye (ha) on those eye caps, make sure they come off when ur baby sheds. If they stay on, then over time multiple eye cap layers will stay stuck and could blind your snake.
It seems like despite the surprise of receiving the animal, you're doing your research and have the resources to care for them !! Best of luck <3 Perhaps give an update sometime?
1) they’re nocturnal
2) it’s typical for them to hide for 20+ hours a day regularly
3) the substrate you will have will mold, you want this
How about this?
Trust me this is the best to get rid of what you got. No vet visit needed. Just once a week maybe bi weekly treatment and they will be eradicated.
My local reptile shop has been in business for 30 years. I tried everything to get rid of mites and nothing worked. Less than a month of this spray everything’s was gone!
I would recommend some Chlorhex to help bomb the enclosure. It's safe around your pet since it's what they literally use for surgeries the same way they use betadine for humans.
My mom bought it for me as a birthday gift a few years ago. It is a tyrannosaurus skull replica, I think this one:
Not very familiar with the feeding tub idea but i agree that if she spent most of her life in a rack system she might feel better in a tub when eating. Would something like this work?
Also do i need a heating pad, water dish for it?
Wyze is pretty popular for recording beeps at night! This model has been recommended quite a bit here :)
I have a very thick girl so the 4” worked perfectly, she folds herself inside of it. If you have a male or a younger one I’d probably recommend the 2” diameter one.
This is the one I got
I had the same problem before switching enclosures to a PVC one, but what helped keep Temps up before that was switching from a CHE to a DHP (Deep Heat Projector). They are fantastic at heating areas up!
I am just worried about dhp/che's because he rubs his face right by the bulb and I don't know how hot the cage around it will get? If I am describing it badly, it's similar to this one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arcadia-Heat-Lamp-Safety-Cage/dp/B07KNDW25M/ref=sr\_1\_5?keywords=heat+lamp+cage&qid=1657829987&sr=8-5