What are /r/bikewrench's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Well that's interesting, I hadn't actually seen one before.

Most are calling it a saddle suspension device or a seat shock absorber.

https://www.amazon.com/USDREAM-Bicycle-Absorber-Suspension-Mountain/dp/B07HKC3BJ7

It appears to be a Petego Cycleash, an attachment for walking your dog alongside your bike as you ride.

The fact that the dog is wearing a helmet backs this up. Safety first.

The real stuff is made by 3M to cover the leading edge of helicopter blades to protect them from sand and other debris. Comes in a bunch of different thicknesses and is also used to protect car paint & bike frames (to prevent cable housing rubbing the frame, to protect against chainslap and chain suck, and to protect leading parts of the frame from rocks, sand, and grit that will eventually chip & wear the paint.

There are a bunch of brands which rebrand the 3M stuff, and laser cut it into all kinds of shapes meant to fit specific forks & frames. There are ebay/Amazon sellers that'll sell you small rolls of it for much cheaper per MM^2:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VWC3BZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is part of the coaster brake, the thing that engages when one pedals backwards on the bike to slow down the bike. It needs to be secured to the frame though. They make specific coaster brake straps, but you could easily make one yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/Wald-6003-Coaster-Brake-Strap/dp/B000AO7E0K

They look OK, but the real answer is to buy a pair of calipers (~ $10) and measure.... The pads have a minimum thickness spec

Wera makes excellent allens. Alot of bike mechanics all use PB swiss. They are the equivalent of a Lamborghini in the tool world.

Well, the PCS-9 is discontinued from Park, so I doubt that will be on sale. I am personally really not a fan of the PCS line of stands. They are overpriced and really don't work as easily as some others.

I would suggest taking a look at the Feedback Sports stand at the same price point. IMO it is much better constructed, feels more solid, and is easier to adjust tension.

I have 3 PRS 2.2-1 stands, so I'm not just taking a piss on Park. I have had 2-3 PCS stands and have given them away.

quick look at the Amazon link above- as long as you're a Bear (no mention if Ursine or San Fran Castro District type) between 25-150kg, life is good. I don't want to know what a "ProLOtective cover" is either.

​

Material: Spring steel clamp+ 6061 aviation aluminum

ProLOtective cover material: silicone

Bear weight: about 25-150kg

Applicable180: suitable for mountain bikes, road bikes, Fixed Gear and more

Regardless- not something I'd trust at any weight.

Bottom bracket spindle is trashed. In photo 1 you show a heavily pitted bearing race on the spindle. I would suggest not rebuilding this one but rather replacing with a cartridge bottom bracket. This will require an additional tool and we will need to determine what the appropriate bottom bracket is. Spindle length, possibly frame shell type, and spindle taper need to be determined.

Save your money, OP. Just get a set of handlebar streamers and you're good to go. https://www.amazon.com/LITOON-Handlebar-Decoration-Accessories-Tricycles/dp/B07JVBG1GK

I don't know if you're serious about this, but the rear cog on these coaster hubs are standard 3-notch cogs found on everything from kids' bikes to Sturmey Archer 3-speeds. The notches on the Cranbrook's cog will shear sooner than later, but they're easy to replace (held in with a single snap ring) and come in a variety of sizes. I recall Shimano makes some higher tooth count cogs that might be more suitable for offroading.

Your comment was removed by Reddit because it's an amazon affiliate link. To get it to show up:

1. Don't bother editing your comment. That won't restored the removed comment.

2. Do post a new comment, with all the junk starting with /ref= removed:

...CHAIN-WHEEL-FC-M311-L/dp/B005FWBPZW~~/ref=asc_df_B005FWBPZW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode= ...~~

Better yet, link to a better price at an actual bike parts retailer instead of Amazon.

If the various cleaning agents don’t cut it, I would try some automotive rubbing compound . Go easy, because like you I’m not sure how thick a bike clear coat is, but this is the go-to solution for paint transfer on cars.

• It's sometimes more time consuming figuring out how to fix your bike / waiting for part to arrive in mail than repairing at store
• Whenever you try repairing yourself you risk breaking something, although some might see that as valuable experience
• Some people don't enjoy time spent fixing their bike, others do
• If you know your bike's mechanics you can ride it better, and better anticipate and address problems before they put you out of action
• If you understand what causes problems you'll know what to buy next time
• If you understand the problems on your bike you can help others

I'm tempted to go full philosophical waxing bullshit about self reliance and the pursuit of knowledge and understanding but I'll leave it there and instead recommend you all have a good read of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.

>ATD 1.2 Adjustable Torque Driver

This torque driver is sufficient for smaller items and travel assembly. But you may want a larger torque wrench for things like rotors, cassettes, bottom brackets that could come undone.

​

• You also want an awl and pick set. This is my most used set of tools oddly enough. https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-6943-Precision-Pick-4-Piece/dp/B000NPPBQK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1EMEZUIBWBY1A Great for cleaning gunk out of derailleurs, cleats, cable housings. I reserve the hook one for fishing out gaskets and o-rings.
• Park Tool or Pedros cable cutters
• Lubes! Get a separate box for different lubes and greases
• Spray bottle with soapy water (I use a little bit of Dawn dish soap). Good for general spot cleaning however it really helps get those tires on the rim and the bead seated. Also good for finding the source of slow leaks in a tire.
• E6000 or Shoe Goo. Vulcanizing adhesive that usually patch things enough until you get home.
• Zip ties!
• some measuring device that doesn't take batteries
• Topeak Joe Blow Sport 3 pump: cheap, good head, can inflate any tire, easy to read gauge, can use the base as a trowel

Looks like it covers the basics, except for a torque wrench (which not needed for groupset change). Pricey, though. This bikehand one has everything except the missing link pliers for less than half of the cost. This one includes a torque wrench and bearing press for 2/3 of the cost.

Also, KMC recommends against using submersing chain cleaners like the one included.

Nail polish does not adhere and not durable, not sure why people recommend that.

As with any paint clean, scuff sand lightly with 150 grit and get either automotive touchup paint/pen or one of these from the hardware store :https://www.amazon.com/Testors-9120-Detail-Enamel-bottles/dp/B0006MZOSA/

The rim is garbage and I wouldn't trust the spokes, but the better question is why you would want to try to rebuild that wheel unless it's just to learn how.

You're going to be much better off both in terms of time and money getting a cheap 27" wheel like: https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Front-1-1-Silver-36H/dp/B000AO3GLQ/ref=pd_sbs_468_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000AO3GLQ&pd_rd_r=0JR9BA8ZNH13N7KXZ9JV&pd_rd_w=s9tOg&pd_rd_wg=WsTCs&psc=1&refRID=0JR9BA8ZNH13N7KXZ9JV

The bearings in the freewheel are worn out. Generally, freewheels are not worth repairing. A new one is about $20.

You can't fix that. Send the pic to the seller and demand satisfaction. Probably the bike was not packed properly for shipping, or the shipper brutalized it.

If you can't get it replaced for free, the part is $20: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-Derailleur-RD-TY300-Direct/dp/B01D2WQ0TM and you can install it easily yourself.

You may or may not need to take the bike to a shop to have the derailleur hanger (silver piece) straightened. If you bought the bike mail-order, ask them to send you a new one of those too.

Yes, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Crankset-Sprocket-Crankarms-Chainrings-Mountain/dp/B08SKY3W63

This is NOT a recommendation it's just a random amazon search to illustrate the type of thing you need (before anyone jumps in and tells me that this is some cheap junk and to make sure you have good dental insurance before you buy it!)

Basically any set of "budget" cone wrenches is made from pot metal that'll deform after a few uses. Prove me wrong.

If you just need them for occasional adjustments (and not daily shop use), the double-sided Park ones are the best value. That said, most people only need a 13 and a 15, and MAYBE a 17. You could just buy those sizes and, as long as you don't go to work in a bike shop, probably never need another for as long as you live.

That looks like a Tourney TX35...

This is what you'll need to remount it: Y5WS98020 B-Axle & Spacer (Direct Attachment Type)

If you just want to replace the whole thing: Shimano Tourney TX-35

I was raised with the term circlip, but find it more commonly called a snap-ring.

If you have a stock of replacement circlips then go screwdriver.

Despite my best efforts I've seen these fricking clips/rings or whatever we call them fly off into black space never to be seen again, or be irreparably damaged. I've had a pair of these pliers for 5 years and love them.

Snap ring pliers

Were i used to work we had the parks t-handle torque wrench. They were bad. Not very accurate compared the the shimano pro and after a couple months they did not click anymore. The bit holder is also weak and kept falling. The magnet in the bit holds with super glue. When the super glue is gone it stays stuck on the bit. Get the Shimano PR100340. https://www.amazon.com/PRO-Shimano-Torque-Wrench-Adjustable/dp/B07Q7SN4J5

This is a direct replacement.

Here is how to replace it

I’m shit at knowing if cassettes are worn or are still good to use... so no comment there.

To remove it, you need a chain whip and a Shimano/sram cassette removal wrench or socket.

Bike Cassette Removal Tool with Chain whip and Auxiliary Wrench Bicycle Sprocket Removal Tools Sprocket Remover ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07517WGKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e80rDbBMN21WN

If you screw up completely, there's always the Dropout saver which doesn't require any specialized tools. Just drill out and pop in.

You could keep the old cables and housings, but new ones will perform much better.

Whatever you do, don't try to crimp your own cable ends--- they're safety critical, and "homemade" will end badly.

Standard brake cables come with both types of ends pre-made; you just cut off the one you don't need. At some point in the past somebody used the wrong end on your bike

Cheap and expensive way to fit it. The cheap one only work if your downtube diameter is 28.6mm. The expensive one can go up to 31.8mm.

I buy red mechanics' shop towels. CostCo always has them in stock dirt cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Mechanic-Nabob-Wipers-Commercial-Perfect/dp/B01BJJ3EAI/

At that price, I treat them as disposable rather than risk contaminate anything else trying to clean them.

Like these Furniture Connecting Cam Lock Fittings 15mm Dia, Cam Fitting with Dowel and Pre-Inserted Nut 4pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FF2Y8QR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_ATL9FbRWTECZD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

+1 for Feedback Sports. I'd consider paying more for the beefier red one instead. I've been using an older version of this one for about 10 years, and my dad has the OLD version (labeled Ultimate Supports, before Feedback was spun off into its own brand) which he uses to this day for weekly road bike maintenance. It's as sturdy as it was the day he bought it, which must have been close to 20 years ago.

Whichever one you buy, you might find yourself using it for decades, so it might be worth spending a little more on the sturdier model.

So that's the issue then the frame is designed for a derailleur that attaches to a braze-on mount not one that clamps on with a band clamp like in the photo.

So you want to buy a different front derailleur like this

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-FD-2400-2x8-Speed-Claris-Derailleur/dp/B00CABQRVS/ref=lp_6389289011_1_26?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1565001047&sr=1-26&th=1&psc=1

(shows band clamp type in the photo but you can select braze-on type from the pull down option)

If you haven't tried the derailleur you have like that it might still work, would be worth seeing, you probably do need one desinged for double chainset though

I bought a copy of Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance specifically because it includes a sensible list of regular maintenance tasks. It has several lists, like “before every ride,” “after every ride (or three),” “every 1000 miles,” “every 20,000 miles,” and helpful hints about how to know specifically when you need to do certain things, regardless of how many rides or miles you do.

I just picked up this one, it's not the cheapest alternative but it's cheaper than Park but it's solid craftsmanship and arguably more versatile. I like Bike Hand quite a bit as an alternative to Park for us home mechanics, I've got their workstand and truing stand as well and I'm pleased with all of it.

Spokester. Easier to retrofit, louder than any hub, costs less, makes noise even when you are pedaling, and comes in 5 colors.

For bike-specific tools (BB wrenches, cassette tool, crank puller, etc.) I find that Park is often the best, though I'll look at Pedro's, Spin Doctor, etc. And for some tools the generic amazon ones are fine, like chainwhips.

For hey/torx keys, I've always liked Bondhus, but Wera, Wiha, and PB Swiss make top-notch ones too. A good set of hex keys is only a few bucks more than a cheap set that will round over and mess up all your bolts, so save yourself the headache and buy good ones from the start.

Socket sets and combo wrenches, I'm partial to Craftsman, but tbh you can totally cheap out with Harbor freight here, or get whatever HD/Lowes has on sale.

Regular phillips/flat screwdrivers, I like Bost (new rebranded in the U.S. as Stanley Fatmax), though Wera and Wiha make great ones too.

Cable cutters, Felco C7 hands down.

It's a crank preload cap tool. Like this one for Shimano cranks: https://www.amazon.ca/SHIMANO-TL-FC16-manivelle-Hollowtech-montage/dp/B0013B2VDY but obviously a different shape for the cap that came with your crankset.

Totally agree… and the right tool is really cheap. I recently had to remove a square taper BB and this worked totally fine for my case:

BIKEHAND Bike Bicycle Compatible with Shimano Bottom Bracket Removal Remover Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00811WQJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F9M16R46DSDD1ARQZWCG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Park Tool and other companies also make versions of this tool. Just gives you an excuse to get a new tool :D

That is a great idea! Shout about being a bike friendly business as well, and I am sure your friendly local cyclists will help spread the word.

Not sure which country you are in, but I would recommend (if you are in EU) to get your business up on Komoot as well. It's a very popular route building and sharing service.

https://www.komoot.com/

Im working on a bike app that lets you look up bikes and see their specs. you can use this to derive what standards/compatibility applies and help identify/compare bikes in general.

Sprocket is free on Android. Rating it helps more mechanics see it :D https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.retrographic.sprocket&hl=en

Common thread pitch for one of those screws (for most bottle cages, rack mounts, panniers, etc.) is M5 x 0.8. Below is a link for what u/Synthbent715 and u/MGTS are talking about. Typically used with a T-handled tap wrench, definitely by hand, and with a little bit (like 2 or 3 drips little bit) of oil or some other lube. Chasing threads is more like renewing them. You're not cutting them from scratch. Make a couple of turns forward (clockwise or righty-tighty), and then about a 1/4 turn back to clear what you cut. I bought a big metric/imperial tap and dye set a long time ago and it's paid for itself several times over.

uxcell Spiral Point Plug Threading Tap M5 x 0.8 Thread, Ground Threads H2 3 Flutes, High Speed Steel HSS 6542, Titanium Coated, Round Shank with Square End https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z9R61TK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KNKJ3SCCZYRDTFKR4JJ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Technically these are Tourney TZ series RD's, but Shimano just dumps a bunch of completely different RD's in the Tourney groupset: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TZ31-A-GS.html

It's basically the cheapest derailleur Shimano makes, and believe it or not 3x6/7 is still pretty common on big box bikes. There are even some 1x6's out there on hybrids.

Agree with you, a modern 9 speed RD is the way to go if OP wants adjustability and a derailleur that isn't going to fold in half. The biggest obstacle to that is the claw hanger, so op would need one of the claw adapters to use a modern RD: https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shimano-Compatible-Index-Hanger/dp/B001PT8M8C

Not actually a joke, these 6 speed TZ's are swiss cheese and they can just fold in half if they aren't treated carefully.

If that's the case then I would suggest this tire: https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-700X25/dp/B004T0E2LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541739728&sr=8-1&keywords=schwalbe%2Bmarathon&th=1&psc=1

In my opinion it's the best 27x1+1/4" tire still being made for commuting. The Amazon listing calls it "27x1.25-Inch" for some reason.

Treat yo self
https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-700X25/dp/B000P6SLYQ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=schwalbe%2Bsilento&qid=1603058611&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1

I've done this exact thing too many times... As stated above, it's either a missing spacer or a cog is on backwards (looks like the former to me).

This is what the spacer looks like in case it'll help you find it lying around nearby (this probably isn't the right one for your cassette) https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-11-Speed-1-85mm-Low-Spacer/dp/B00BO4X1SE

If your valve, which is Presta (FYI), has removable valve cores, you can buy presta valve cores. There's a pretty simple tool to do this. The only annoying part is all the air will be let out, so, you have to fully inflate your tire again. With tubeless, this may be easier with a compressor but I've done it with a pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Hestya-Remover-Include-Tightening-Application/dp/B091CC7LNZ/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=valve+cores+and+tool+presta&qid=1623969665&sr=8-6

From a pic, the only way to really tell if they're removable our not is to use the tool.. Yours appear to have the notch that the tool uses to remove the core and the core is a different color from the rest of your valve, so I think you have removable cores (haven't heard of a tubeless that doesn't). To remove the core, you simply unscrew it like any other normal thread.

The little metal piece just fatigues over time from use.

Is your bike carbon? Are you torquing to spec? I would recommend cleaning post and frame hole really well, apply carbon seatpost paste, then torque to spec.

Finish Line Fiber Grip Carbon Fiber Bicycle Assembly Gel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012RIEM6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DXEH8EVWNFSNJ3R04N8N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Order now and get it tomorrow. It's a waste to throw it away. If you buy a new KMC chain, it will come with a quick link that you will need to use anyway.

​

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Missing-Link-11-Speed-Titanium/dp/B07PNLV2K7/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=kmc+missing+link+11+speed&qid=1625072577&sr=8-2

I found a Knockoff that is way cheaper but I don't know the quality of it.Heres the link

OK, knowing that the bike is used leads me to believe that this is left over from a trailer hitch that the previous owner removed part of. I have a trailer hitch that is of similar design. It looks a lot like the washer in this product picture.

https://www.amazon.com/Titanker-Upgraded-Bicycle-Attachment-Trailers/dp/B07BBNWJ3J

While I can see how other posters may have confused it with the old front wheel retention system I don't think that design is used anymore. Instead we've been blessed with 'lawyer lips'

Giant trance?

Most likely 8mm x 22.2mm mount hardware. (8mm bolt, 22.2mm wide insertion point)

You can get a caliper on it and verify.

Also it appears the factory bolt has been removed and replaced with phillips head screw? Youll need to take it apart and assess that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N80Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_X6N4TVPFPSTA086EH2AT

Get 2 of these cone wrenches

13/14/15/16mm Bike Bicycle Wheel Axle Hub Cone Wrench Pedal Spanner Tool

They will allow you to adjust your wheel bearings, and other nuts.

Buy a 1/4 inch drive socket set. Make sure the sockets are 6 point sockets. 12 point sockets have a tendency to strip the heads of fasteners. I have only seen 12 point fasteners used on aircraft engines. The 12 point end of your combo wrench is not good for loosening tightened bolts but is handy for working out an already loose bolt.

I have only used a socket wrench for caliper brakes or maybe some odd accessory.

Might as well get 1/4 inch drive allen sockets.

Torque Wrench:

A Quarter inch beam type torque wrench is the best type for home use. These are bullet proof and can take just about any abuse from being knocked about in a tool box. But do treat it nicely. Setting torque is not about chasing a number. You need some understanding of what is going on.

Click type torque wrenches seem very cool but they require constant calibration. The grease in the mechanism dries out or gets stiff in the cold. Requires recalibration if dropped. Plus it has a complex procedure to set the needed torque. These are only really useful in repetitive production uses. We used click type on our Coast Guard aircraft but they were sent out for calibration every 6 months.

Digital torque wrenches still need an initial calibration check and you need to make sure you can hear the beep. I purchased a digital torque wrench and the beep can barely be heard. I use it only for verifying torque on a beam torque wrench for critical bolts on my paramotor engine. There may be better models out there now.

A set of Ball End Allen Wrenches is good to have.

Yes to the first part, no to the second part (gorilla tape).

Get powder coating tape. Just as good as gorilla tape for tubeless but leaves no residue like gorilla tape.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GUFMBVY/

If you think that's expensive, what about the 125$ Silka HX One Set ?

If you're talking about higher end stuff maybe, but not sure if that applies when comparing with very basic/entry level stuff, e.g. Mavic R-Sys are 1295g a pair, but there's plenty of cheap road wheelsets on Amazon etc for 2200g+ a pair like these

Also consider the wheels on Walmart mountain bikes, they have aluminium rims but are ridiculously heavy, and it's far from the case all of that is in the hub and axle.

I know Wellgo makes 1/2" pedals.

1/2" is still pretty common with BMX, kids bikes and department store bikes. There are tons of listings on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-2-inch-Silver-Platform-Pedals/dp/B00BNZFF1A

Those should take most toe clips just fine.

Did you mean 68mm? I'm pretty sure you can use any 68x107mm square drive sealed cartridge bottom bracket.

Here's one on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Tange-Ln-3912-Cartridge-Bearing-68X107/dp/B07NMXQWL1

I am likely in the minority here, but I absolutely abhor Park stands (like the PCS-9, I do use their PRS 2.2-1).

Anyways, if it can pay for itself, I would strongly suggest a Feedback Sports Pro Elite. One of my favorite features is the ratcheting clamp, I can squeeze it hand tight on carbon if I am doing SAG and just need to get the bike off the ground quickly for a drivetrain tweak. I have never had a single issue with this stand and mine is 3 years old this fall.

For a budget version of this stand, the Spindoctor Pro G3 is a serious workhorse but really not for bikes over 35lbs. We have one of these in the shop that is going on 5 years old and everything on it still works perfectly- and if you have ever been around a bike co-op, you know shit gets destroyed pretty regularly.

Good luck finding the right stand for you!

good points; sometimes you can do a search and find out what a specific tire measured on a certain rim width; for example here's a thread describing the Randonneur Pro 37mm (referenced in OP's third link) measuring 33mm on a specific rim

You really need a master link tool to get them undone. In a pinch, I've used needle nose pliers, but it was a pita. When putting it on the bike, if I didn't have the tool, you can get it together like you have pictured, then rotate the link to the top half way between the cassette and front chain ring, hold the brake and stomp on the forward pedal hard to snap the rest of the link together. Or wack the forward pedal with a rubber mallet.

Park Tool Master Link Pliers MLP-1.2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9NW32I/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FYAQAK2FDREHHD6W3Z10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

They'll work and they're cheap. Cheap allen keys are more likely to round, however. If you want a high quality, yet still pretty inexpensive set, Bondhaus is hard to beat: https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-22199-L-wrench-DoublePK-1-5-10mm/dp/B000E7VG5C/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=bondhus&qid=1626240870&sr=8-9

it's worth buying a copy of Park Tool's big blue book too. Every repair has a clear mechanical explanation and then step by step instructions for fixing it. While it can be a bit technical, it's invariably correct, and if you just follow the instructions letter for letter you can't really go wrong.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-Unisexs-BBB4-Book/dp/B07QPVZ932/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=big+blue+book&qid=1624954283&sr=8-2

I swear by their wheel building guide. it brakes down a complicated job into easily tackleable steps.

good luck :)

I used to have the same problem, then I switched to this valve with great success. It comes with different profile rubbers apply to different rim shapes. Check it out: MBP Alloy Tubeless 40mm Bicycle Presta Valve Stems Fits Most Rims with 2 Types of Grommets Included for Each stem. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C35ZQQN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K8RTCPMGZD4PB4GKF9RD

Some bikes use knarps for brakes, not sure if they are ever used on shifter cables.

Maybe you can make some sort of industrial stringed instrument out of salvaged bike parts?

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SG-3C41-Universal-Nexus-Coater/dp/B001GSKVIQ

This is a 3 speed hub kit from Shimano. It also has a coaster brake. If you’re willing to rebuild your rear wheel, it would provide you with braking as well as a couple gears.

Overall, anything by Shimano should work great. Sturmey-Archer is also definitely a decent alternative.

I wanted a bike stand, but I didn't want it to take up a large portion of my already crowded garage. I bought a $35 bench-top stand from amazon and decided I could make a t-slot mount that could fit multiple different t-slots on my table stand side and outfeed tables if I spaced the t-slot holes correctly.

It was cheap, easy, and quick. A couple screws and I can hang it on the wall out of the way.

Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-700X25/dp/B000P6SLYQ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=schwalbe%2Bsilento&qid=1603058611&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^performed ^^^automatically.

I always used to call them the old school drop bar brake cable ferrule thingy, I don't think that's the technical term however.

Edit: to be helpful It normally comes with a universal cable and housing kit

That looks like a regular single speed master link. You should be good getting a 1/8" master link like this https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Single-Speed-Master-Link/dp/B01ENW62Q6?th=1&psc=1

BTW bike chains are usually identified by number of speeds with single speed/coaster brake chains having a 1/8" inner spacing. The distance between the chain pins are the same regardless.

Flex Hone.

Edit: $18 on Amazon

Be civil, be friendly, explain the problem, see what they say. Definitely talk to a manager or owner if you can.

Then read 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' and never let a shop touch your bike again :) my shop experiences have all been less than stellar.

I built an Android app that allows you to look up thousands of bikes by brand>year>model to reference their specs. and standards:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.retrographic.sprocket&hl=en

• I recommend being honest with your customers about your level of experience, so that they know what to expect, atleast until you feel that you have "picked up on the pace". :)

• read through the resources I just added in build 1.3.3. ParkTool, SheldonBrown and JimLangley will get you quite a ways in the right direction ;)

If you spray it yourself, short of having a professional sprayer and high quality paints, it will be chipped just as bad in short order, especially if it continues to be locked to public bike racks like that.

I think you need to evaluate what you mean by "restore" and how far down the rabbit hole you're willing to go. That rust we see on the outside of the fork is highly unlikely to ever be the death of the bike.

If you want a cosmetically restored bike the best answer is to replace the fork or have it properly sandblasted and painted, such as at an automobile repair shop.

If however you want to return the bike into factory functional condition I believe you would be safe ignoring the outside of the fork.

That bike model appears to sell in excellent condition for 100# or less so consider that before sinking a whole lot of money into it.

I got these replacements for my 6600 hoods. The comments say that they fit mostly on 6500s, but with a small gap on the top.

>For $10, they fit well enough for riding, but cosmetically they don't fit. They wrap around the shifter well, but don't fit the top - there's a half centimeter gap.

Not sure if that's worth it for you....

Edit: Add the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P9EVHS

That's 10 bucks for 50 grams that's pretty expensive you probably don't need that for just greasing a QR. Just grab some regular bike grease like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+grease&qid=1626811251&sr=8-8

vampliers are a godsend for when the screw is externally accessible, which it looks like this might slightly be

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-International-Vampliers-Portable-Extraction/dp/B006YJKAPQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q456VLK

This saddle is a knock-off of the Power Saddle from Specialized; I bought it to try out and absolutely love it. It's been going strong for a bit over a year; if/when I need to replace it, I'll upgrade to the real deal from Specialized.

Not really sure what you consider a "super thin rock hard road saddle"; I would definitely say this is intended to be used with a chamois of some sort, but it's fine for short rides in street clothes.

Di2 has external routing options with stick-on cable guides.

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Ultegra-Di2-Wire-Cover/dp/B0065FCPV6

Not that they're used often.

The shaft looks very corroded with all those little pits and craters in it. I googled for "Aoyi" and it seems to be a manufacturer of suspension components for cheap / box store bikes. I don't think there is actually a damper inside so there is really nothing to "service" here.

You could try lubricating the shaft with a thick grease, but it likely won't remove the noise for very long and it will attract dirt and dust. You could also try disassembling the pivot linkages at either end, cleaning everything out thoroughly, and lubricating with grease as well. If there are bearings there, you could try replacing those as well.

Ultimately, it looks like this is a very generic "shock" and identical models run around $15 on Amazon. It's probably easy to find a close-enough replacement.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EQ26SO0

Folks rave about Simple Green. Cheap and enviro friendly.

Extensions like these lessen the torque actually applied to the fastener because they twist as you tighten. How much effect they have varies by length and diameter, for example a 1/2” drive 2” long extension will twist less than a longer 1/4” drive one. A lot of manufacturers specify a torque range, not an exact number, which can help account for extension use. I torque wheel nuts on commercial vehicles, the range is 450-500 ftlbs. I use an extension because of the deep set on a dual wheel, and go to 500 ftlbs every time. Without an extension I would be fine anywhere within that range.

I don't think that's enough clearance. You'll pick up dirt and grime that'll pack up there until it rubs. I wonder if you could run a drop bolt upside down.

https://www.amazon.com/SuperNova22-Titanium-Brake-drop-bolt/dp/B07FB8VCCB

Good catch. This one, then. And yes, on the seatpost clamp. Lots of them for like $5 from Amazon.

If you have a bike co-op in your area, reach out to them. I have a huge assortment of headset bearings at my shop. Alternatively, count the number of balls and look on Amazon for "5/32x20(this number is the number of balls) headset bearing" Like this

I got this off Amazon ... Bicycle Kickstand, Carbon Fiber Quick Adjust Height Side Stand Support Rear Mount Stand with a Storage Box Bike Accessory https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FL7KTFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_id21CbYW1PWVA

For generic tools don't bother with the "bike brand." For example, Park Tool spanners are no different in quality from Husky (Home Depot house brand)... They are, however, way more expensive. Hozan makes some really nice stuff that's not necessarily bicycle specific (Allen keys and 15mm ratchet driver come to mind) but I don't know that they're "worth it" per se. Extremely expensive tools.

The proper fix is to cut the excess cable a little shorter and put a new cable end cap on. https://www.amazon.com/BEAUTOPE-Brake-Cable-Mountain-Bicycle/dp/B08136V7L9/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=bike+cable+end+caps&qid=1597534654&sr=8-9

​

Or you could just try to bend the cable up a bit to see if that gets it out of the way.

I’ve just started working on bikes since about March when all this pandemic stuff began, but I’ve found Park Tool’s Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair to be really helpful. Covers the same material as many of their YouTube videos, but it’s much easier for me to follow along with the book than constantly pausing/rewinding a YouTube video.

STX was the worst. The middle chainring is essentially another spider.

honestly I would try to find a standard square taper crank and replace the whole shebang.

Otherwise you will have to keep the middle ring and get replacement 58mm BCD and 110 or 98 or whatever the outer chainring is but still keep the worn middle.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-S600-Crankset-8-speed-42-32-22T/dp/B003UW9R68/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=bike+crankset+mountain+square+taper&qid=1595522821&sr=8-16

Yeah, those are hydraulic brakes, and you definitely emptied it. You'd need to replace the oil and bleed the brakes to get them working again. Here's a video if you'd like to see what that entails. It might be wise to take it to a shop, if you're uncomfortable. Here's the bleed kit on Amazon.

This is the best toolbox I've found for bike parts. Not overly large, but it unfolds into a super great workstation where you can see all your tools at once. It's modular too and works for super small parts, so you don't need additional tupperware for small parts. And it's not clunky or heavy and can easily be transported. I've had mine for 3 years and use it constantly - no hiccups at all. Here's a pic of my setup.

Don't touch that sunrace shit. Suntour on the other hand is great.

This is an old 70's piece that should do the trick. What is the application?

Those are cruiser wheels. Heavy, steel, wider than you likely want. Try to find some aluminum rimmed wheels, they'll be much better.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014GJYO2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vwQkub0YEY4YQ

I have a compact crank with 11-28 right now, and I used to have to stop halfway up the steepest climb in my area

I borrowed my friends bike after a while which was heavier, and had a standard crank with 11-25, and I made the climb no problem, so that's what I'm looking for :)

Pipe pliers? Get the right tool and a long 3/8 ratchet handle.

Park Tool Shimano/ISIS Bottom Bracket Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A0AIAG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0YKGSVRTVNWBNAEVPPJB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Don't turn it backwards, drive side is left hand thread.

If you have 130mm spacing - https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Ultegra-6800-Quick-Release/dp/B00GPRIL8U/ref=asc_df_B00GPRIL8U/

If you have 135mm spacing they make an equivalent Deore XT skewer but I can’t find it on Amazon.

Regardless, you definitely want to look for a skewer with an internal mechanism, they are much better

Those seem to be bolts from an old-fashioned seat clamp. You could try to look for a more integrated seat post/clamp design, but it will cost a bit, and if your frame is an older consumer-grade one, finding the correct diameter may be hard. Look for something like this

As others have said that's not an extender it's a quill stem converter.

An extender is something like this that clamps onto where your existing stem goes and lets you raise it higher:

https://www.amazon.com/Wake-Extender-Handlebar-Aluminium-Adjustable/dp/B074143PY5

Not the cheapest option, but I love my Jagwire Cable Cutter. You can also use it for cable housing, which you'll have to replace someday, and it has a little reamer on the handle to round out the housing end after you cut it.