What are /r/cycling's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

There is a RoadID app that I use whenever I'm planning to ride more than 2 hours, or am riding somewhere unfamiliar. My wife appreciates it, and if I feel like extending my ride I can.

Google play link. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.roadid.ecrumb.app

i think zinn is the standard. but these days you're probably better looking for a video on youtube.

edit: zinn - https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

I purchased one of these jerseys on Amazon. Happy with the quality of it. Less than $25.

I also purchased one of these jerseys on Amazon for $55.

They both feel fine, though the $23 one is more form fitting, which I kind of prefer. But seem to be good quality. If you get one, just make sure you pay attention to sizing.

In addition to going to a physician, you can also get portable ECG machines that can detect irregular heart rhythms and are small enough to take with you on a ride.

I picked up this one for myself & another for my dad (he had a heart attack 2 years ago and still has occasional afib):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072DVN9GV/

The big benefit to using something like this is that some problems may only be detectable during or shortly after hard exercise, so you wouldn't necessarily notice them at a doctor unless you're specifically going in for a stress test.

Gonna agree with u/HoyAIAG on this one. You can get a Kestrel full carbon frame with Shimano 105 componentry from Bikesdirect for just a few hundred more dollars. $850 for just Sora, even on carbon, seems unduly steep to me. Sora's not bad, mind you, but whoooooa where did this price jacking occur. Schwinn has a comparable Aluminum frame at around this point, too, with 105.

The colorways are also hideous IMO, and I'm a guy who likes color in bikes.

Pace yourself - at your power with no wind it should take you between 95-110 minutes to complete that climb at an average speed of 9.5-11mph (@ power of 200-250 watts).

This is according to strava @ https://www.strava.com/segments/633502 which is from visitor center to parking lot.

I might even prefer to keep the pace lower for the first hour as it is hard to tell how conditions might be different (wind) as you climb and you will have a much better climb with fresher legs toward the top. The first 4 miles is closer to 6.5% gradient as well and levels off for a mile or so - don't be fooled. Also the last 6.5 miles average 6% grade so you need to finish strong.

Worst case scenario if you go out too slow? Just do it again! Hah.

Started out in cycling a similar way. Get a hybrid: $200-400. You can get into cycling and enjoy riding without dropping serious $$. If you enjoy the hybrid(a flat bar bike like this Schwann Hybrid ). Eventually... if you get into cycling you can step up to road bikes, gravel bikes, or go mountain biking. These are all more expensive for a solid bike(unless you feel confident buying used).

I rode my hybrid for a couple years and got a Specialized Roubaix which ran me around $1500 new at a local bike shop. But I only got it once I was sure that I’d get value and enjoyment from spending the extra money. So start with something you’ll enjoy riding and (more importantly) is within your budget. You’ll be happier whether you stick with cycling or not. If nothing else you’ll have a bike for the beach...

Salt concentration in sweat varies A TON from person to person. Some people have 300mg per liter of sweat while others have 3g/L. Average is around 1g/L. Not the most scientific but here you go. I personally know I am a very salty sweater and a early sign I need salt is my scalp starts to get kinda tingly/numb. You can try salt tabs to maintain your levels on endurance rides in the heat.

They do. Gf used a free staple she got and liked it but she still prefers the euro style that I normally get.

Chamois Butt'r Her' Anti-Chafe Cream, 10-pack of 9mL packets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJVZ9QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3BCBCb7X41M56

This is a huge challenge and not to be taken lightly.

The changes you will have to make are huge. Starting with diet and training schedule, these are both key to building efficiency in muscles turning carbohydrate derived glucose into kinetic energy. Because your not a cyclist the muscles you need to be strong and efficient are mainly unused in your current daily routine. Hence the quite correct cliche that runners don't cycle and cyclists don't run. I have no idea what triathlons are meant to accomplish.

Start reading now on dietary changes, I would suggest Racing Weight. You can get it from Amazon

Racing Weight: How to Get Lean for Peak Performance https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1934030996/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_iBCjAbW4X9AF9

This will get you eating well and fuelling the next most important thing....your training plan.

The British Heart Foundation do a good range of plans here:

https://www.bhf.org.uk/get-involved/events/training-zone/cycling-training-zone/cycling-training-schedule

The three plans are beginners (5 weeks), intermediate (5 weeks) and advanced (10 weeks).

So nearly 6 months of training to get you there.

The big changes that need to be made are: Diet Train 6 days a week Go to bed early Cut out alcohol

As for bike fit and saddle choice, they can be done at a local reputable bike shop. Importance on the reputable not size.

If you are going to do thus get serious today, its not a cake walk :-)

Hope this helps.

sounds like you want/need a full face helmet of the sort that the more aggressive mountain / bmx riders wear. In the event of an unexpected spill, it would protect your face/jaw and the sides of your head better than a standard bike helmet. I wouldn't recommend boxing headgear-- different sort of impact

> wired bike computer starts failing when there is moisture

Nope, you're making this more difficult than it should be.

I've run a $25 Cateye Velo 9 (wired computer) on multiple bikes for many years with zero issues, and I'm not one to shy away from riding in heavy rain. The sum of miles of all three of my Velo9s is probably north of 10,000 miles.

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Pressure-Floor/dp/B077KXQ995/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1530563846&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=joe+blow+sport+pump&psc=1

used this for years. if you're going tubeless, i'd recommend an air shot pump though

Magnets my man, magnets.

Get some Neodymium magnets and some GoPro stickies and you can mount just about anything

What's the speed limit on this road? If it's over 35 MPH I'd be concerned as well, I notice the speed differential between a 35MPH road and a 45MPH road is pretty big, i.e. on a 35MPH road I feel like most people are driving under 45 MPH, but on a 45MPH road that I drive on regularly, I get passed all the time by people going 60-65MPH.

The other thing is that this looks like a long stretch of road without many things to force a driver to pay attention, i.e. crosswalks, stop lights, driveways, etc. I think this is dangerous because drivers sometimes slip into autopilot while driving long, empty stretches of road. If you must ride this road, I would suggest getting lights like this as it helps to draw the driver's attention to a moving object, namely your feet.

I have a pair of the “bone conduction”. I think they are more like mini speakers but they don’t cover your ear at all. You hear all the traffic

Bone Conduction Headphones Bluetooth... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DTLTXP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Disregard naysayers, acquire beat.

There is nothing wrong with listening to music on the road - I have been doing that for thousands of kilometers without any issues. You just have to be smart about it - music is good, but hearing what's behind you is also important. Do not use headphones that block out noise from outside - invest in bone conductors (Aftershokz) if you must, otherwise use speakers and exercise common sense - heavy metal on full blast on the city streets is obnoxious at best, but on the other hand - music warns pedestrians and other cyclists of your approach. That is very useful in busy sections.

The Shimano SPD pedals are the most common and versatile. The “standard” model is the PD-M520. You can buy them from Amazon for $36 and they include the piece for your shoes. Easy to install. Easy to replace. If you want the “upgraded” model, you can stretch for the $62 PD-M540. I have both, but don’t really notice a difference.

Shimano SPD-M520

RideWithGPS has a really great route building tool. I've tried Strava's and just keep coming back to RWGPS. The route guidance is really good too with "handlebar mode" keeping the map in front of the lock screen and both visual and audible cues as you approach turns or POIs.

Routes are easily shared too, for example: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/10371718

They make these: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Kovers-Bicycle-Cleat-Cover/dp/B00LQFYHUC

The colored bits on the corner aren't really necessary, they work fine without them. If the contact point at the front and back get scuffed, then yes it can affect performance.

For my small apartment, I bought this off Amazon. It leans up against the wall and can be used as a bike stand for maintenance.

Edit: For $50 it's been great: amazon link

The X9.93 has the outer plates nickel plated.

The X9.99 has both inner and outer plates nickel plated, so it resists rusting better than the .93 chain.

The X9L chain has split inner plates to reduce weight. The X9L gold is Titanium Nitride (looks like gold) coated which reduces friction and resists corrosion better than the nickel plating.

The X9SL is their lightest chain with both inner and outer plates split and hollow pins. Right now you can get it on Amazon for $30, which is a steal. Last time I bought it the thing cost $45. It really makes a properly tuned drivetrain shift smoother.

I normally run the X9L chain to shed a little weight. If your chain ever gets wet, go for the X9.99 at minimum.

I like to use opencyclemap.org because it shows the roads, but also the trails for biking and hiking. More trails are shown than the official park maps for my area, which is good for hiking, and trails that are bike-able are shown that otherwise I wouldn't know about.

I use an app on my phone that lets me save these 9and other) maps for use without a network connection, so I can see where I am on a map with GPS without using data.

Edit: The app I use is made by Atlogis. I think it's also available for iPhone. It's probably not the only app that can save maps for offline use, just search for offline maps when looking for apps.

Defo need a new cassette. Especially considering it's skipping in the gears that are most commonly used.
Also, there's nothing wrong with a 105 or Ultegra cassette. $86 for Ultegra. even less for 105.

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Ultegra-R8000-Cassette-11-28T/dp/B072MLYG5T/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=2YEQZ91590VLP&keywords=ultegra+11+speed+cassette+11-28&qid=1667513201&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjYwIiwicXNhIjoiMS42OCIsInFzcCI6IjEuMzMifQ%3D%3D&spre...
You'll also need this tool, takes 2 min. $15.

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Cassette-Auxiliary-Sprocket-Freewheel/dp/B07DN6K2PV/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=2TFLANHE4LCQK&keywords=bike+cassette+removal+tool+with+chain+whip&qid=1667513290&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjUxIiwicXNhIjoiMi4wMiIsInFzcCI6IjEuNDA...

Anaerobic efforts can only last around 5 minutes and shorter if your tank is low to begin with, so if the hills are shorter than this then you are most likely going anaerobic. A HRM would tell you for sure (HR above threshold). But this sounds to me more like a muscular strength issue than conditioning, I know when I burn out of anaerobic juice my breathing is ragged.

For anaerobic training: short duration intervals (circa 60 seconds) or hill sprints, with plenty of recovery between intervals to let the anaerobic system recharge (otherwise you'll end up working aerobically)

For muscular strength: Plenty of options in the gym, or on the bike go for low cadence (50-60) seated workouts - hill climbs of varying duration is probably best to develop a mix of strength and endurance depending on exactly where your weakness is. A warning on these low cadence drills though, make sure you are fit 100% right to your bike and dont have any underlying knee issues as the torque required can strain your knees - listen to your body.

Or if you want something less formal, find a route with a stack of short sharp climbs and ride it lots. Something like this would be good, though the first climb would ideally be shorter. The best case of course would be to build your aerobic system and muscular endurance so that you don't have to go anaerobic, but that may be more of a longer term goal.

Ride With GPS is the closest thing I know of. You can search for previously entered routes near a location and filter by route distance, or you can create your own routes pretty easily on a map.

I like this one for chaining the wheels and locking the frame simultaneously, but not grinder resistant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YB116L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_V7T75RNJMAJ45NN5028X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is a great option that's not overly expensive. Both USB rechargeable, both decently powerful and made by a reputable company. Relatively inexpensive too, but getting up there in price.

It's awesome.

I went earlier this summer with my girlfriend, who is a very casual cyclist on a hybrid bike. We parked in Niagara-on-the-lake, and biked to the falls and back in a total 60km loop. We stopped in a couple wineries along the way too which was great. I recommend this as parking in Niagara-on-the-lake was free (1/2 streets have free parking, get there early) and the route to the falls is beautiful.

If you bike hard, it's a good workout, and if you take it easy, it's a super manageable ride. The trail is called the Niagara River Recreation Trail and it was super easy to follow. If you bike to the end of Prideaux Street (where I parked) it turns into Byron street and the Trail starts there, just follow along with the signs.

It's also 95% off street if you aren't comfortable biking on the road. I also saw many cyclist on the actual road if you are going faster than the bike path limit.

Protip: Inniskillin Winery were douchebags and wouldn't let us place our bikes next to the picnic table to have a bite and some wine. Right next door was Reif Estate Winery which were super cool about our bikes. The girl at the outdoor bar literally took them into her bar/kitchen area to look over them while we went inside to sample wines. +1 for Reif Estate. Plus it's a beautiful little area with vines and a fountain.

Here's a link to my Strava activity that day so you can see the route: https://www.strava.com/activities/585676148

Cheers!

Hey there guys! Sorry my details weren't so good, I'm new to this subreddit and to biking in general. Here are the answers and details!

So the 200 limit bike is this one! And the 250 is this one! which I'm considering for the weight limit + storage if I need it. I shouldn't, but you never know!

>When you say 209.4 is that you in your naked stocking feet or ready to ride?

209.4 is me in winter pants and shirt, and shoes! As for the stuff on your list, on which you make a great point, probably all I'd be adding is my (small, fairly empty) purse, a water bottle, cell phone, bike lock, and helmet. I'm not really out to road race or even be out too long, so the cadence monitor, bike computer, etc, aren't really add-ons I'm considering. It's just something to do to help me exercise and get places nearby without wasting gas.

Everyone's making some great points though! Thank you for taking time to answer my question.

Get this app on your phone:

http://www.myfitnesspal.com/

Log your food religiously while keeping track of your calorie burn with a decent tracking app.

If you stick to the guidelines the app sets out for you, you'll lose weight. I guarantee it.

Ride with GPS - you can set the two bikes in the equipment list. https://ridewithgps.com/app

The ride with GPS app also works with cadence, speed, and HR sensors as well as power meters and the Varia Tail-light radar.

The fully paid version also has one of the best best bike route editors.

Lebanon :) (The middle east)

There are some SERIOUS climbs close to the coast, and Ski resorts are a 30 minute drive from the coast!

I'm one of those guys that really likes seeing where I've ridden, on a map. I'm not a racer and my average pace is rarely exciting, but I love all the data.

One thing I like a lot about Strava Premium is the personal heatmap. Anytime I ride, I try to make sure to hit at least a few nooks & crannies I've never ridden before, just to add to the heat map.

Here's mine: Heatmap link

You can zoom in or out with your mouse roller, and drag left, right, up or down by left-click-and-hold and move the mouse. Besides Houston, I've made marks in Holland, Michigan, the Piney Woods, and Luling.

Another couple you might like:

• A Sunday in Hell: A classic documentary from the 70s about Paris-Roubaix
• Chasing Legends: Documentary about the 2009 Tour, following the Columbia-HTC team

I tackled this question earlier this summer. Ended up with a couple of solutions that I like. One is that I found some 1 L bottles on Amazon and they make a really big difference:

Zefal 164 Water Bottle, 33 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WOEU9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YNN0XRTSTRMAW30B5JG6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I also picked up one of these as an option for longer, more remote routes. It doesn’t interfere too much with jersey pockets and it doesn’t make me sweaty as much as a backpack would. and you can put your snacks in it!

https://www.rei.com/product/185193/osprey-seral-4-hydration-waistpack-15-liters

A kool stop tire bead jack is probably one of my favorite bike tools

Amazon. Here ya go

Ok, everyone is going to laugh at me... but I’ve been using military surplus trigger finger mitts for years, and they are unstoppable. You can get them online for under 10 bucks on amazon or eBay. They have a leather shell that’s big enough for hand warmer packets, coupled with 100% wool liners... you will never get cold. I ride sub zero Fahrenheit with these puppies and the only thing that’s cold is the cold ass stares from my friends wearing $150 45 North or PI mitts. Definitely give them a shot, worst case you’re out 10 bucks!

There are pictures on the website and user pictures in the Amazon reviews.

The "Classic" is pretty shaggy. I called them my "sideburn toupees."
The newer Air Stream is slimmer.

With poor roads, it might be in your best interest to get a bigger, more comfortable tire:

Continental Tour Ride Urban Bicycle Tire (700x47) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EIHYU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hQyRBbGFV7Y6J

For some reason you made me think of Barry Bonds. Big, muscular guy. Unconventional road cyclist physique. Now an avid cyclist.

You can see what he's up to here: https://www.strava.com/athletes/8976

You aren't going to get Hyponatremia drinking to much water on a moderate ride. It requires drinking an insane amount of water for an extended time in addition to intense output. Furthermore, there is a distinction between a severe and a minor case. Frankly all the fear mongering around the topic is laughable and it's better to er on the side of drinking slightly too much than risk dehydration. To say that clear urine is a sign of overhydration and a concern for hyponatremia is simply incorrect. The rate at which OP is consuming water is not concerning in the least.

You are best to focus on heart rate. To do this you first need to establish your max heart rate. From this you can create heart rate zones and then you go from there. All instruction you need to train are in this http://www.bookdepository.com/The-Cyclist-s-Training-Bible/9781934030202

Sorry but you have something wrong in whatever program is doing the calculations.

You would need to average 300w over 5 hours and 24 minutes to use that many calories.

You can do that math yourself.

https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/work-and-power

Did the math myself in my ride today and it was within 1 watt when I put in my average power and time.

Well done, that looks like a nice bike :) Take a look at Google Maps, that's what I use to work out my rides. If you come across good trails that aren't on the map, you can open an account with Google Mapmaker and add them yourself. I do it all the time :) You can also use the Google Camera app to take spherical images and upload them using the Streetview app.

That sounds a bit like a Google advert, but it's what I do to help other cyclists in the area who may be thinking about using a trail they've not cycled on but who may change their mind after viewing a photo I've taken of it:

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO9m9JPZ63lgZVWDIhSW9mW207cNbEGDSu2o1iU

Don't get carried away with the speed of your new bike :) Remember, always ensure you can stop in the distance you can see, brake in a straight line (try not to brake while cornering), and watch out for potholes and car doors :)

One note on the yoga pants - if they are the flowy kind, loose around the ankle, you may want to roll up or peg the right leg to keep it from getting dirty from the chain. If they are capris or straight/tight at the ankle, no worries.

Yes, there are classes! Your local bike shop may have classes, and REI often also has them.

For rules of the road, look up your local DMV online. Most will have the full rules of the road available. While it's written for cars, it should also cover bicycle traffic. You'll especially want to pay attention to sections that address right of way.

Your local bike shop may also have regular rides, and check meetup.com for cycling groups as well. Riding in a group makes things a little safer - it's harder to for a driver to ignore a pack of cyclists than one riding alone.

Good luck and have fun!

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Lightweight-Platform-Bearing-Titanium/dp/B07FFSCY41

They are out there. I’d rather spend $30 on Nylon though pedals see too much wear.

Have you done any core stability exercises? Stuart McGill practically wrote a bible when it comes to treating back pain and I always suggest giving his big three a try. Don't know how much of pain in your case is due to nerve damage but it probably wouldn't hurt to try.

Wahoo Bolt with a cadence sensor. Get yourself a heart rate monitor. I have this one and it pairs nicely with my Bolt.

I've been really happy with the Halo II headband. It's very thin so it fits under the helmet easily and has this rubbery bit to direct sweat away from my eyes.

https://www.amazon.com/Halo-Headbands-H2NAVY-Headband-Navy/dp/B002JS64LU/

I ride a Checkpoint and found myself riding the same thing, I switched to GravelKing slicks and it smoothed out the ride on the road plus still can take it down gravel.

The color bit is a rubber grip and not critical to the cleat working. It is critical to not feeling like you're walking on ice. The cleats are plastic and not meant to be walked on for any real distance.

You can buy rubber cleat covers. They'll protect the cleat and give you some traction.

You linked the 810, not the 820, which I couldn't find on their website so same difference I guess.

What I would do in your situation is sell said card on Cardpool, you lose a few bucks but can opt for a check or Amazon gift card instead. The 820 is currently 400 bucks on Amazon.

I just got these for $5 on Amazon. Come with a case, 5 interchangeable lenses including yellow, clear, blue, polarized black, and multicolored.

Make your own cold brew for dirt cheap. The Coffee Gator Cold Brew Kit is super easy to use. Don't need to use good coffee 'cause it'll taste great regardless.

I usually let mine brew for 48hrs and store it in mason jars for up to two weeks (you can drink it after longer it'll just taste like ass).

For a ride a 6oz mason jar full of that would probably be plenty. Stick it in a jersey pocket and you're good to go and just take a sip every once in a bit.

If you do use mason jars, once you get frustrated with the lids always rusting when you refrigerate them I started using these lids a while back and they're great.

Edit: Definitely check the comment below this, recommending using a Gu refillable flask in lieu of a mason jar. Seems smarter, easier, and in a worst-case scenario of a crash definitely safer than glass.

You could try zip tying the cage to your frame in a better spot.

SKS Anywhere More elegant solution than zip ties.

Wolf Tooth B-RAD Allows you to lower the cage.

Solo rides can be meditatively peaceful.

Cycling clubs and group rides can be a good way to meet new people.

Bike maintenance and modification can be a great outlet to do mechanical work with your hands and understand a simple machine (see Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, "the case for working with your hands," and all that), with minimal tool investment, and possible in nearly any home.

I have done Bergen Park to the top of Mount Evans, and it does take quite a bit of training.

Things like Idaho Springs -> Bergen Park -> Squaw pass and back are good training.

Or almost any circuit west of Golden, like the Copper Triangle (+ Turquoise Lake).

For Mount Evans, the descent is almost harder, due to the poor quality of the road.

Also, if you are doing Lookout, try to do 3+ laps of bottom to top and directly down. Like https://www.strava.com/segments/7073120

This guy started on the same path you are considering, and discovered it wasn't quite as easy or as cheap as it seemed. 4iiii scooped him up and his project disappeared from the internet.

Having said that... I don't think there's any serious cyclist that doesn't want a cheaper power meter.

Two were from Aliexpress, and one pair are commissioned by a local shop but are still from China.

I don't really think you should go with either of your options as like I said, I don't think anyone should run fake branded stuff.

The wheels I got were from here.

It can be very foggy in SF and it does rain here so I would say bring it. I live an hour and a half away from SF and I can tell you that there are some beautiful rides in and near SF. Strava has a list of some of them (https://www.strava.com/local/us/san-francisco/cycling/routes?hl=en-US), but I know of even more and rides away from SF. PM me and I will happily show you around.

I use a trainer on rainy days or if I need a short easy spin when it is gets dark earlier this time of year.

SF rent is out of control and it has been a major local story. I don't know how it compares to your experience, but yea small and expensive are common here.

This one is a bit of an overview of a few other studies.

Some key bits:

> Finally, in the study of De Waard et al. (2010), no more conflicts were observed among phoning cyclists as compared to non-phoning cyclists. Listening to music has no effect on the number of conflicts. A conflict in this study was operationalized as a situation where either the observed cyclist or another traffic participant had to change speed or course to avoid a crash.

> Completing a task on the mobile phone resulted also in increased response time and brake time by 0.29 s on average (De Waard, Edlinger & Brookhuis, 2011). The increase was higher for handheld phoning as compared to hands-free phoning. Contrary to the use of mobile phone while cycling, no effects of listening to music were found on cycling speed (De Waard, Edlinger & Brookhuis, 2011; De Waard et al., 2010) or the response and brake time (De Waard, Edlinger & Brookhuis, 2011). The position on the road and the variation in the lateral position (swerving) was neither affected by conversing on the phone nor by listening to music (De Waard, Submitted; De Waard et al., 2010).

> The effects of the use of electronic devices on visual perception have been studied byDe Waard et al. (2010) and De Waard (sumitted). Visual peripheral detection, operationalized as a number of noticed objects, was not influenced by listening to music (De Waard et al., 2010).

Yup. I use Knog Cobber a that are visible from the side and I have some little square front lights that I painted with amber turn signal paint on the sides of my fork and seat stays

This is also great https://www.amazon.com/Brightside-Lights-Cyclists-Rechargeable-Bike/dp/B01ANW2YB2/ref=asc_df_B01ANW2YB2/

I found sun protection shirts to be helpful when dealing with extreme heat. The dayglo colors also help motorists see me. Below is an example. Hanes Men's Long Sleeve Cool Dri T-Shirt UPF 50+ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBZT6FY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

I've been very pleased with some Santic items bought via ebay and Amazon Santic Men's Cycling Jersey Short Sleeve Bike Shirts Quick-Dry Breathable Bicycle Tops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YWP2W4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZVHM9W7Y7Z20QTW1PTA3?psc=1

Get a bicycle workstand, something along the lines of this design is what I would go with https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Mechanic-Repair-Stand/dp/B07PDS5M7H/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=bike+workstand&qid=1625079197&sr=8-8

I use a K-Edge mount for the front. GPS on top/GoPro on the bottom.
The Fly6 mounts with a velcro strap, and just wraps around the post.
I'm on the road right now, without the bikes, thus, no pics. Sorry.

https://www.amazon.com/K-Edge-Handlebar-Computer-Garmin-31-8mm/dp/B01LYH5TVY/ref=asc\_df\_B01LYH5TVY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312152782978&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13302871025847556196&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=...

>"cover everything but a nine inch gap over my knees"

By Jove! I think that maybe you're on to something there.

My wife uses this, it feels incredibly secure due to the elastic:https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Rotating-Smartphone-Charcoal/dp/B078L18FTZ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1K7JDTRFUSQFK&dchild=1&keywords=nite+ize+phone+mount&qid=1621522896&sprefix=niteize+phon%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-8

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Be wary though, I've had my S20 Ultra on my handlebars with a quadlock case for about 1500 miles now and the camera can't focus any more, even in manual mode. I think the road vibrations damaged it.

I can’t find the exact one but this is just like it. Corki Varia Mount for Garmin， Varia Rtl510 Radar Mount， Varia Rear Seatpost and Saddle Mount. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NTZ6HWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_O6QTFbG9CFNTC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

My son got me this, I think he got it on Amazon.

Edit: found it

I have the GoPro Hero Session. I really like it, although the battery life isn't too great.

There's a holiday bundle that's going on Amazon right now for $180. It's a little over your budget, but it includes an SD card at least.

You can find some basic Pearl Izumi jerseys on Amazon for not too much...

Pearl Izumi Men's Select Short Sleeve Quest Jersey, Screaming Yellow, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F1JTNNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9wX1ybA2D1KKS

And I really quite like Baleaf bibs, never tried the shorts but the bibs fit great and are well made for the money.

Baleaf Men's Pro II Gel Padded Cycling Bib Shorts UPF 50+ Size L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQU22PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ezX1yb55HEHVZ

These would be fine, for short and medium rides. For longer rides, 2-3+hours, i prefer these... Bib Tights,Sponeed Men's Bike Shorts Bibs Pants Short with Padding L White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRCQ3N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fhCxzbEZSJFXG

Pretty much all of my jerseys and shorts have come from amazon, and they have a great return policy for test fitting.

Get a bright rear light, like this

Better, get a Garmin Varia radar and something to view it on and make sure you have alert sounds turned on so you know when there's a car behind you.

Even better, get both.

You are going to need a speed and cadence sensor to start with, something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPW3GXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hfcxFbJMDKPS8

This is enough for indoor training, for a cheap setup you can simply use your trainer, sensors and phone, basically what I did when I started (even the same fluid trainer).

Softwarewise there are plenty on the market, zwift and trainerroad are probably the most popular, both have trials to iron out the sensors before committing.

The only extra I would recommend is a MASSIVE fan, do not even try without as it makes a world of difference. Oh and a towel on hand to mop the well earned sweat of everywhere it flies!

There are NO bathrooms where you work? Unless you switch to normal bike shorts/underwear, you're going to have chafing issues. Eventually, you might build up calluses there, but why risk it?

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Also, "a couple hundred on underwear"?! WTF? Just buy a couple pair (or 3 or 4) of cycling underwear on Amazon, for like $17/pr. I bought these and they are very good. I almost want to wear as bike shorts only, during the summer anyway. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTE6OTQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went an even easier route, and bought this little bluetooth speaker that sits in my jersey, or you can hang it somewhere on the bike.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725RR7W2

It's fantastic because it's safe, and others can hear it if you're in a group. We do a lot of sing-alongs as a result.

Hourly forecasts have their use.
If it's showing rain all day, you can bank on that.
50% chance of Scattered showers? That's a gamble.
In that case, use the weather radar and make your own prediction based on your route. See if there's rain in the area and which direction it's moving.

I like https://www.wunderground.com on desktop and RadarNow! on Android.

One of my favourites (and pretty good for someone not from Sydney) is the Eastern Beaches ride on https://www.strava.com/local/au/sydney/cycling/routes

If you want something longer 3 gorges is a very popular one.

EDIT: Also I'm no mountain biker but Manly Dam seems popular.

This is why I am a member of the Strava Honest Climbers Club.

Club Standards & Practices:

"For cyclists who like climbing, who have barometric devices and who do not press the "correct elevation button".

Why? Climbing challenges are flooded with people using either the strava app on their phone, or press the correct elevation button as Strava cannot be relied on for accurate data. This gives them tons more elevation gained than they actually did, leaving "honest climbers" a little frustrated.

Is this club for frustrated people only?
No, not at all, just for people who want a fair competition.

Basic rules: No Corrections, No Apps, No Mobiles, No GPX files."

There is one, but it's flagged as hazardous. This one isn't flagged, but he doesn't show up on it. Probably throws out results that are clearly outside what is possible.

I commute 60k each way a few times a month. I used to commute 20k for a long time daily. It's fine. Your pace will get faster and you are saving time as you will not need to go workout.

20m you should be under 3 hours round trip in a bit. 2 hours is doable but will require training and it would be hard to do daily. If that was my commute distance I would aim to pick a day and ride it fast home or there and maybe one more. Maybe do some intervals one day too.

https://www.strava.com/activities/639548273/shareable_images/map_based?hl=en-GB&v=1468415960

In the same vein, I'm rocking this one as often as possible. Available at AliExpress. The sizing is weird and the arms run very small (circumference).

Could potentially even get carbon at that price in the UK. Planet X are great, I have had several.

https://www.gumtree.com/search?search_category=bicycles&search_location=uk&q=planet+x+carbon&min_price=&max_price=550

https://www.strava.com/segments/632509 - 9% avg. It can go eat a bag of dicks, because 9% is a lie.

https://youtu.be/hARYlRRMtT0 has more detail. These are pro level riders conking out here I think.

Yes, personal heatmaps are the thing that got me to do a monthly payment for Strava. When I started last year, I was just barely getting into cycling again after not doing it again for years. It makes me quite proud to see everywhere I've ridden.

My heatmap

Not only do I have tracks for Washington, but I've ridden down to Portland OR, I've ridden in Idaho, and I've ridden in Hawaii. It's pretty awesome to see the visualization, not because I give a damn about how many miles I've ridden this year or how far, but it's just cool to see everything on a map.

The Iphone data is very, very generous.

Same ride:

Iphone Data: https://www.strava.com/activities/388640950

Garmin Data: https://www.strava.com/activities/388780851

The Iphone data consistently gives a much higher than average top speed and is usually an easier way to get faster segment times.

I asked at a local shop, and googled local clubs. I also use ridewithgps.com. You can search routes based on your location. Users share their routes and those tend to be better roads. The route planner uses that data if you plan your own ride.

I can’t speak to specifics between apps and services other than they all seem to have a little proprietary math they use in addition to existing data. RWGPS has interesting help post that may shed some light on why there are elevation discrepancies in general:

https://ridewithgps.com/help/grade-and-elevation

I haven't ridden HHH in a few years, I think the last was 2017, but I can't recall anything on the 100 mile route that I would consider to be a climb. It's really pretty flat. Maybe there's something on the shorter routes, I haven't ridden those.

There are plenty of places that you can look up the route for the HHH, so you can easily make a direct comparison with the ride that you've just completed. For example:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/39035348

It can get pretty hot, if I remember correctly, the first time I did it the afternoon high was 106 F. That combined with the a 15mph headwind for the last 15 miles made it kind of rough. The route has changed since then and I think that it's more wind friendly now.

Load route and start and do not navigate to start of route. Make sure you have recalculate option turned off Incase you go off course otherwise it will make a new route to get you to the end. When you get to the end of the gps route you’ll have to ignore it and continue until you get to your end Remember recording your route and following a route are 2 different t things, so remember to start and stop your ride at the right point

See this link on garmin preferred settings when using ride with gps

https://ridewithgps.com/help/garmin-edge-1000

It’s certainly possible but does depend on what level of cycling fitness you’re starting from.

You mention in the comments that the indoor bike is a Keiser brand. It should have a display on it that shows power(in watts).

When you did your 7 miles in 30 min, did you happen to see your average power in watts?

According to this calculator (https://www.omnicalculator.com/sports/cycling-wattage), 20 mph on a flat road, would require about 170 watts. It’s an estimate since it’s based on an outside ride, etc.

Basically you want to maximize the power level that you can generate and maintain for 30 minutes. So definitely not sprint power, but endurance.

Just seconding the request for cool bar tape, I was hunting around yesterday for myself but can't find much.

Lizard Skins tape is great and they have a few 'camo' patterns but I'd something a bit more out there.

There are a few similar thing on Ali-Express

You could always experiment with wrapping more than one colour for an effect like this

Let us know what you find!

> 1500cal

Robert Gesink did stage 18 at 114 miles, 21.3mph, but only 14000ft of gain.
https://www.strava.com/activities/352421789

That's 7 climbs tougher than Cat3 including an HC

This Giant Ambassador guy must be a beast

I rode the route yesterday! The weather report was all wrong and it rained for about 70% of the journey which I was not prepared for! Next investment: lightweight waterproof jacket! Completed it in 6hr 33m. Not breaking any records but I achieved a goal I set myself a long time ago! https://www.strava.com/activities/162371830

Not crazy at all. Looking at the route (https://ridewithgps.com/routes/28392146), the first 60 miles are dead easy, and then you've got a pretty good climb. The climb at the end looks like a pretty tough one, but knowing you're done once you get to the top is great motivation. Just make sure you take 3-5% off your normal pace for the first 3/4 or the ride, and you should be good to go for the climb. Be really careful with hydration and fuel, making sure you have energy for the last section, especially if it's a hot day.

Head north up 70 and play around up there. I live in the Boston area but I often ride west of the city on the roads near 62. 70 connects with 62 and 117 is near there. Tons of side roads for exploration with some smaller, but longer climbs.

Tour of the Quabbin route isn't too far for you either.

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/14427250

I second the other poster on the Blackstone Valley as well. I've never ridden down there but I can tell you that the roads are quite nice.

Nah, I've got komoot. Usually just pick out a local highlight in like 30-40km distance set it to round trip, inspect the route, adjust it here or there, include some more highlights so that it's not a straight there-and-back, and hop on the bike. I've done this at random several times, and some of the routes have become my go-to loops.

Other than that, I use local folks on Strava or my cycling club's members' routes on various sites to find inspiration.

I find that not planning a route usually ends in frustration, but that's just he local bike infrastructure that's shitty and will send you off to middle of nowhere cul-de-sacs because in Germany, Mercedes go brrr.

(Granted, that's for road. But there's trail POIs in Komoot, too. I guess it helps to live close to the forest, if you can…)