What are /r/ender3v2's favorite Products & Services?

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I would highly recommend against it, unless you are going to be on site every time you're printing. It seems a bit flammable. Not that it WILL catch on fire, just that it's a bigger maybe than an actual enclosure.

This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Enclosure-Dust-Proof-Filament-Constant/dp/B089VLHJT6

Do not over do it! Many people say to do things right away. This is what you should get now.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NFD8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6XTWAMAAGBABZFPHBT9R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I run my Ender 3 v2 with just this and i get perfect prints. Almost as good as my Prusa MINI+!

In my opinion, this is all you need. Many say to get more than this, but then they end up having problems. Dual gear extruders aren't bad but i would wait until you really need it. I dont plan on getting anything like that though. If it works, than dont try to tinker with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NFD8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_F5QAD9W73WAXW0526B6F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Just get this right when you order the printer. I installed this and everything is phenomenal. Also, i would like to add, rubbing alcohol is amazing for the bed. It helps a lot with bed adhesion.

In my opinion, the stock one works great. If you are having issues, try washing it well with warm water and dish soap. Helps me everytime.

If you still are wanting a new bed, i would do PEI.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PFL8TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FQGN5TTR0V4HTNTZEFKB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Even though i love the stock bed, i have been considering this pei sheet. I have a Prusa MINI+ and I mainly use the smooth PEI sheet and absolutely love it. I have no problems with it at all. Bed adhesion is amazing. Just make sure you have some rubbing alcohol to clean it every now and then as grease from your fingers will easily get on the bed.

I have my Ender 3 V2 along with my Prusa MINI+ in my bedroom. It isn't too bad sound wise. Also, I dont think you need to worry about potential toxins being released if you plan to use PLA, TPU, and PETG. You get used to the sound but it isn't loud from the start as many over exaggerate. My Ender 3 v2 hits around 60 db with all of the fans. If you really want, you could spend 30 bucks for new silent fans, including the psu. Haven't done any of that yet besides a new mainboard fan but the psu fan is the loudest out of them all. The Ender 3 v2 is a great first printer and prints PLA, PETG, and TPU well. Mine is almost 6 months old and is going strong.

I recommend this for your first upgrades.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NFD8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9FVATRG6C3S3QGZHZKC8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Very simple and really all you need in my opinion.

Bought and installed these ferrules, even the crimper isn’t half bad for the price. I installed the smallest ferrule I could squeeze on each wire and, after crimping, I gave it hell trying to pull it loose to no avail. Install was quite simple and gives me more peace of mind letting it run for extended periods.

NUZAMAS Adjustable Ratcheting Ferrule Crimper Pliers Tool 0.25~6.0mm AWG 23-10 Includes 800 Connector Terminal Kit https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074CRVJ5B/

Something worth pointing out is that I have double fan headers installed with the green ferrules. I run the hotend and motherboard fans off the same terminal on the board so they both run full speed all the time. I’m using these connectors for this and really like them.

Mecion 2 Pin Silicone Male Female Connector Plug JST 100mm Wires Cables for LED Lamp Strip RC Toys Battery Pack of 20 Pairs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07WR9L268/

Try and push the tubing as far as you can into the pneumatic coupling, and if that doesn't work, I would recommend upgrading to Capricorn tubing and higher-end couplings for $15 dollars.

I really recommend the dual gear extruder. It's a really cheap upgrade that will fix a lot of issues and open the door to new materials.

This is what i use for the hot end fan and blower. Although it is the same, they are nothing like the ones that come with the printer.

Ender 3 Original 4010 Fans 40x40x10MM DC 24V Extruder Hot End Fan x 2 and DC 24V Turbo Fan x 2 for Ender 3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3HCKCP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8YKSXT48EA9ABQ9NVMNX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is what i use for the mainboard fan. Basically silent. You could even use these for the hot end fan if you can solder the wire.

WINSINN 40mm Fan 24V Hydraulic Bearing Brushless 4010 40x10mm - High Speed (Pack of 5Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757RPCN9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_S0ENX1N6J1WZRMM943FB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NFD8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6XTWAMAAGBABZFPHBT9R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Get the link above. The yellow springs are stiffer and helps keep the bed level. It also helps with taller print keeping them stable. I found that i barely have to make adjustments after a day or two. Sometimes even a whole week. This also includes a capricorn ptfe tube and a mk8 aluminium extruder. I normally recommend this link for new users of the Ender 3 v2 as i find they are great easy upgrades. If you already have the ptfe tube or the mk8 extruder, you can find just the springs below. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PC59BP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NN2G2ACJDD5D2W22S5Y8

Hope this helps!

My belt just snapped last weekend!

I got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08974S1CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_8WVTNMJYNWNBV333Y3GY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It doesn't come with crimps or anything, but you don't really need them. Just fold and zip-tie the ends. I went with the roll to make sure I could cut the belt to size if needed, and you get a lot more belt for your money... In case you need to fashion another!

I got this and works well for me. You can also get it in a set with springs and Capricorn bowden tube. Step up would be dual gear extruder.

For videos, search youtube for Teaching Tech, Chep, https://teachingtechyt.github.io/ <- great for calibrating and troubleshooting.

This is the cable I use amazon.

If you are using a BMG or Orbiter extruder you will need to swap the two inner wires on the stepper side of the cable.

This is an issue. There are some solutions, many people use tape to block the 5v+ contact. Then there's this: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-USB-Power-Blocker-Only/dp/B08VHDKCX3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=usb+power+blocker&amp;qid=1625596064&amp;sprefix=power+blocker&amp;sr=8-3

The danger is that although the board sees power the mains are not. so bad things may happen if a stepper tries to move.

I've been printing with this one for a few weeks now and it works fantastically. I also saw the reviews on a lot of the extruders about steel gears gnawing at the aluminum extruder body and wanted to avoid that, this extruder is designed differently and doesn't seem to be affected by that issue.

https://smile.amazon.com/Extruder-Pritner-Upgraded-Filament-Creality/dp/B0915LQV4Z/

Here's mine. Just powered by the same buck converter that powers my pi at 5.1v with a dpdt toggle switch above the main board. No reason you couldn't control it with a small relay though.

Iirc you can fit up to 13" but most light bars are 12. Here's the one I used just lopped the wires just before the controller.

A kit like this was my first choice and gets recommended a lot! https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Capricorn-Upgraded-Pneumatic-Bed-level/dp/B081DN6RM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=ender+3+v2+upgrade+kit&amp;qid=1606174229&amp;sprefix=Ender+3+v2+u&amp;sr=8-3

Here's the model: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/kratos-bust-tarcaleiro I probably tried half a dozen times to try and print the dorso as one piece.....nope. Bad idea, kept failing on random support areas. So I asked for some advice and decided to split it in half and it worked out very well. Once done, it is time to learn how to paint 3d projects lol

Download from here....but I believe what you downloaded is the same thing. https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/

Anyways, after you installed it, launch it. Then up top, click Configuration > Configuration Wizard. Then Other Vendords, check Creality and a new row should show up called Creality FFF. Click on that and pick Ender 3V2. Then just next next next and finish.

Qibaok Crimping Tool Kit Ratcheting Crimper with 1550PCS 2.54mm Dupont Connectors and 760pcs 2.54mm JST-XH Connectors for AWG 26-20(0.1-0.5mm²) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZK5F8HP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QA38ZR6CNZN6W6VHVHBZ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I bought these, cut the Female ends off of 2, and soldered some 14awg wire between them. That pack cost me $10, already had a cheap soldering kit, vs. $30 for just the crimp kit to make my own connectors.

I got this one from Benfenybay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XJPC5JL/

Unfortunately it looks like they're out of stock right now. I really like the having both textured and smooth surfaces. I'll usually print PLA on the smooth side unless I want that textured finish, and it is a cool looking texture. I print PETG or TPU, which tend to stick a little TOO well to PEI, on the textured side so they're easier to remove. May sound counterintuitive, but the texture is less overall surface area for stuff that bonds really well to PEI.

(edited - usually PLA on smooth side)

I had the same problem caused by the plastic tensioner being junk. It didn't seem to affect printing. However I figured it would eventually. I tried shimming the cheap stock tensioner to get it straight but it didn't hold. I then bought all metal tensioners off Amazon that are much more precise at getting the pulley perpendicular to the extrusion. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FM19J5D The Y axis belt now runs true and I don't feel like the X&Y tensioners are going to break at any moment.

I bought these ones I’ve used a handful of them so far and they’ve been so far so good!

LUTER 24PCS Extruder Nozzles 3D Printer Nozzles for MK8 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm with Free Storage Box for Makerbot Creality CR-10 Ender 3 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5KJB59/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NY1WXNQJ03RRZDEE43E8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Yeah, the fan bearings are going out. I had this happen about a month after getting my printer running. :-/

I've replaced my fan for the mobo and the part fan in the hot end. Back to normal fan noises for now. I would recommend a kit that uses double ball bearing fans.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R97ZSF6/

The above is a good kit, but the wires are too short. You'll have to solder the wires to the new ones.

I've got shrink tubes I use that I love. It's got soldering metals in the middle and I just use a lighter. Obviously you'd want to secure the wires and ensure no others are in the way, but I love them make the work easy. link

9 times out of 10 you can probably solve the issue by just being cognizant of where the BLTouch control wire is routed within the mainboard enclosure. Keep it away from noise generating components (like the stepper drivers). Maybe put a few twists in it (not loops).

If not, snap on a ferrite bead close to the connector.

I don't really have specific brand recommendations, just avoid creality branded PEI beds. They are really thin and break very easily.
Get textured PEI if you want very good adhesion and smooth PEI will give you a smooth bottom.

Here are ones I think are good: Textured PEI Smooth PEI

I concur this is a possibility.

However you may not need to shield the cable. You might get away with simply re-routing the cable in the enclosure away from the stepper drivers. If you're running the cable out along the side of the board where the drivers are, move it so it's running along the other side of the board with the power connectors. Keep it as far away from the driver IC's as you can.

Failing that, putting a clip-on ferrite core such as one of these on the BLtouch wire may help too. At the board end would have most effect, but putting one at either end wouldn't hurt. If you have enough slack, you can even loop it around and run it through the core multiple times (the more the better technically). Could even help to put some on the stepper motor leads as well.

You are missing a gear on the arm. It should look like this. One gear on the motor shaft, another on the arm.

This is a good design Fan duct with a Bltouch mount, it uses a 5015 blower fan and will have enough cooling that you will ever need.

When you are buying blower fans avoid Winsinn.
These work fine: 5015 Fans Amazon

Isopropyl alchohol >95% pure is sold in bottles. I just pour it in a repurposed windex spray container, and I'm good to go.

dont get caught up in thinking creality parts are better than cheaper clones. That quality extruder you are replacing is proof that things are built down to a price and not up to a standard. These are a popular style of dual gear extruder that also work well with TPU unlike many creality stock extruders. But when fitting it is advisable to fit the gears higher up the shaft to avoid the gear making contact with the aluminium arm beneath.

One of the best investments (under $50) you will ever make for your printing activities is a food dehydrator with which to dry your filament. Before I got mine I used my toaster oven and that worked just fine as well.

Well, when my stock cooling fan for the mainboard went bad, i got these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757RPCN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_E3D7QCWP9F6PM48PWGRZ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 They work great and they are quiet enough that you can't hear them.

If you really want quiet, get those fans for the mainboard. Also, you might want to look into silent fans for the power supply. Many replace the mainboard fan and think they are done, but then their psu fan turns on and they then realize they need that fan.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Adhesive-Layerneer-Original-Filament/dp/B079984GV5/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-rsf-lq2a1_0?cv_ct_cx=3d+printer+bed+adhesive&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=3d+printer+bed+adhesive&amp;pd_rd_i=B079984GV5&amp;pd_rd_r=7afeec1a-5661... Works pretty well.

Definitely get this for starters. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NFD8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_PPV89WS862V5WER16PSW?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I dont have a bltouch and i think it is unnecessary as it takes me like 2 min each day to level the bed.

The fans are a little bit loud but it isnt too bad in my opinion so i dont think fans are an upgrade you need right away.

A micro swiss hot-end would be nice but i dont have one. I think if you plan to just print pla, it isnt necessary to have a micro swiss. If you plan on printing high temps with petg or abs, you might want to look into it.

A hardened steel nozzle also isnt necessary if you are printing just pla, but it is a cheap upgrade that expands the life of the nozzle if you want. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDWXV77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_88DH4PST626QT9VR01PJ

These are the main upgrades people get. There are a ton others but i dont think they are too important. If you have any other questions, feel free to just ask. Hope this helps!

I would just replace the glass bed. Also, make sure you dont put too much pressure trying to fix your current glass bed as that will damage the heat bed.

Here is a good bed, it is the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_8ESC1WAGSBYSVKV0WEWP?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

WINSINN 40mm Fan 24V Dual Ball Bearing Brushless 4020 40x20mm Cooling - High Speed (Pack of 4Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L3CT33J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q7X5JQB1HWP75C3CVWS5

My friend has run these in his printer for 2 years and only one has gone bad. Probably 2000 hours of printing but they are rated for much more and no maintenance.

What is an "incline fan"?

I see the 5015 blower. What is the hotend fan you are using?

I have my Petsfang being sent to me now. I chose the Soundoriginal 24v dc brushless blower 5015 for the parts fan because it had good airflow and pressure. But I don't know what to do about the hotend fan. Most fans don't live up to the specs of the original hotend fan, if they are to be believed (CFM 7.95, Static Pressure in H2O .167).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FM1MDDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7N2LNL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Or

[US$37.61 20% OFF]Creality 3D® Ender-3 Direct Extruding Mechanism Complete Extruder Nozzle Kit with Stepper Motor Office Equipment from Computers & Office on banggood https://banggood.app.link/PO8WSc1UDfb

I bought this set of silicon spacers and they have been working well for me.

Here's what I bought. They're absolutely fantastic. I haven't leveled my bed since I put them on (which took about five minutes, plus time to level the bed), and I've probably printed two dozen projects since then. My bed is so reliable now that I start prints without even checking the bed level. At most, I'll watch to see how the skirt or first layer of the raft prints, and then walk away.

These things are so good, they really should just come with the printer, especially considering the negligible cost.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY47BX7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_6MVDFKP236KTZ7FSH0VF?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

My other technique if it's something small, and I don't mind marring it up a little on the bottom edge, I'll take the glass off and pop the print with a plastic pry. Similar to one of the ones in this kit: https://www.amazon.com/GLISTON-Removal-Panel-Vehicle-Installer/dp/B07JVP1MRS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=plastic+pry&amp;qid=1617133441&amp;sr=8-2
It works quick and well, and usually it doesn't even marr enough to notice.

Setup an Octopi! It is an absolute game changer when it comes to interfacing with your printer.

I recommend the "Bed Visualizer" plugin (Note you'll need a BLtouch or other automatic leveling probe for this to work), the "Dashboard" and "UI Customizer" plugins for a bit nicer of a ui, and buy yourself a TPLink Kasa KP115 smart plug off amazon and then download the "Tp-Link Smartplug" plugin. That'll allow you to monitor power usage and remotely turn your printer on and off. I love this because if I have a print ending in the middle of the night the printer will automatically turn off after the print is done. It also will automatically turn off your printer if you have a Thermal runaway situation.

This is a nice little kit from Amazon that replaces the plastic extruder top with metal, stiffer springs, new adjusting wheels and some Capicorn tubing. Kind of like 4 upgrades in one.

The best thing I bought was a spring metal bed that’s coated in pei. Ender 3 Spring Steel PEI Bed Plate,Heat Resistance, Removable,Flexible,Magnetic Build Surface, with 235mm×235mm,Upgrade Replacemnt Parts for Creality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B4CBY9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jLixFbbnyfRpK

this one worked perfectly fine for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MD45N9H

Note that the V2 mounting bracket included in this kit fits upside-down as well as right-side up. Don't make that mistake :D

ANTCLABS BLTouch : Auto Bed Leveling Sensor/to be a Premium 3D Printer (with 2M Extension Cable Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FR2LLZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y5SS4G3CA68QN1XSD73Q?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

The bed springs are probably the best thing you can upgrade first. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086MPP7CX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1ECNYAVYEAAC3HADGXA1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 And a kit like this comes with the capricorn tube. Not necessary but will allow you to get a little hotter.

And if you want an all metal hotend go for this one. https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/copperhead%e2%84%a2 You can just buy the lower part (part G) this will work with the stock heatsink. Its an easy upgrade and is cheaper then the microswiss and 10x better. This will also require the tube covered thermistors or the m3 screw in style.

But the biggest things is definitely look into how to install the tube into the hotend properly and adjusting the nozzle to it so it doesn't leak.

The case I use has a cutout for the ribbon to through. I just have the ribbon running under the printer and out the other side up to the camera.

https://imgur.com/gallery/GrUConr

Here is a front on shot that you can see where the ribbon goes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087FDJ2RP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share, this is the ribbon I have to give me the length I needed.

Just received this one; going to install this weekend. It appears to be legit antclabs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FR2LLZP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

These silicon bed mounts work real well for me. I did put a nut all the way up tight on the 4 bolts that the adjusting wheels are on to prevent any slippage of the bolts on the bed, and then replaced the springs by installing the mounts in their place. Once installed I have few leveling problems. I do have a BLTouch too, which helps also.

you could also get something like this if you just want a self standing light to sit behind the litho. you would still want to replace the bulb with an LED one though.

This is the one I purchased. There were 3 different vendors selling this set up at that time, and this seller was the one with the fastest shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L9DHP5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

This is the one....

Official Creality 3D Upgraded Ender 3 Tempered Glass Bed Heated Bed Built Platform Plate Printing Surface 235x235x3mm for Ender 3/ Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5/CR-20 Pro 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F16WPR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_DP99FbT9AGZT9?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Like I said, it’s perfectly flat. After getting this one, it’s like.. what the fuck were they thinking sending out the garbage bed I got with my printer? I mean legit I have to level it an inch in from the sides because the edges are 1-2mm higher.

Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x20mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JK9GX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_4wN9FbVFJ4V8T

(6 Pcs) MCIGICM LM2596 Buck Converter, DC to DC 3.0-40V to 1.5-35V Step Down Power Supply High Efficiency Voltage Regulator Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ1DKF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_rxN9FbB9TAB0X?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

If you don’t have a multimeter, you will need one of those as well to tune down the voltage from 24 to 12 for the noctua

silicone bed spacers

3D Touch from Amazon, I got it for 13$ but it’s up now: Redrex Auto Leveling Sensor 3D Touch Probe V3.0 Upgrading Parts for ANET A8,CR10 Series,Ender 3 Series and Other DIY 3D Printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0821314T9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_9n.6FbYNP00KZ?psc=1

Also there are a ton of knock offs so it’s a bit hard to find a good one. The one I linked is good.

I've been having good luck using the purple elmers glue stick. Washes off easy too.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B000VXO4L2

TUPARKA 70Pcs 3D Printer Nozzle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WTB47N7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I recommend this as its a great value proposition while the quality is ok you get a great range of nozzles

Just these cheap Winsinn dual bearing ones from Amazon.

This is a direct drive setup, so being heavier and slower might reduce that vibration for me.

Well a dual 5015 setup running at even 60% will be quieter then a single 5015, they are loud fans after all. Them running at 40% is quieter then the stock blower running at 100 though.

You can pick up these and they should be pretty quiet but they move less air as a result but if you get a Dual setup that should not be much of an issue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WFKPLWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UmTMFbKSBDPMB?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/CHPOWER-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1EZH21CL1AZ6K&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=ender+3+metal+extruder&amp;qid=1603208019&amp;sprefix=ender+3+metal%2Caps%2C199&amp;sr=8-10

This is the kit I picked up from Amazon for around $20. Comes with the crimp tool and a wire stripping tool and a ton of connectors. Definitely worth the investment for the peace of mind!

Here it’s not the exact one I have but it’s the same.

It’s not big, it’s BMG. For get what it stands for, but it a geared extruder. Here is a link to one on Amazon that I got. I got the more expensive version with coated gears, just cause I like high tech and the dark gears look nice. I’m sure the version with in coated gears would work just fine. And they are like 5$ cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HL83GXN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Yes glue stick will work just fine.
Its a PEI coated flex plate. This is the one i use: https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Flexible-Platform-Magnetic-310x310mm%EF%BC%8812-212-2inch/dp/B08PFJBLNB?ref_=ast_sto_dp&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1

PEI = polyethyleneimine

Its a PEI bed sheet. It has two sides a rather smooth and a textured one. Dont have any problems with adhesion with it. The textures side gives the bottom of the print a nice look.

Here a link to the bed im using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TW23M8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Buy a PEI bed sheet, i did and all my adhesion/warping issues are gone, just did a 186mm x 106mm print and it came out beautiful with no warping or adhesion issues. If i had the stock bed on it would’ve warped or not stuck the little letters to the bed well enough.

I bought this one, https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09Y1WDKM9?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_CG4277VKE3RBNBSQ1DKC. And it works amazing.

> You will see an improvement if you want to print flexible materials like TPU, these seems to be very uncomfortably to print over bowden (I heard, not printed it myself yet).

The Micro Swiss NG has an all-metal hotend integrated into it. I've read that flexible filaments don't work well with all-metal hotends, so that's something to consider. As for Bowden, I've got a Bowden setup with a dual-gear extruder designed to work with flexible filaments and I'm able to print flexible filaments like TPU and FPLA (my favorite) without any problems, just gotta turn up the retraction distance and slow it down.

Why not just get this

Direct drive from Creality

Yes, it's just a simple one from Amazon which they suggested online. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.de/LANMU-Verl%C3%A4ngerungskabel-Adapter-Extension-kompatibel/dp/B09H4CNY6P/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=micro+sd+to+sd&amp;qid=1670364965&amp;sr=8-4 However, I don't think it's an issue with the adapter since unplugging and replugging it does refresh the list op Gcodes

I like this grouping .Redrex Dual Gear Ender 3 Extruder... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H6T3NNT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And

UniTak3D Ender 3 Direct Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KG8MMQ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'd reccomend adding the direct drive. Kinda a little harder but I can print flexible filaments now if I wished

Personally, I got a unitak3d BMG clone (currently unavailable, it was £18 iirc) + a direct drive bracket/carriage, it was pretty easy to fit, the direct drive bracket/carriage replaces the existing X carriage, the bracket screws on top and then the BMG/motor is screwed together, either side of the bracket itself. The direct drive bracket is a universal type, with different screw holes depending on the extruder you have.

If you do end up replacing the hotend, I highly suggest the new Creality Spider 2.0 or Creality Spider 3.0 hotends. I have the 3.0 and have been amazed that the flow rate. Both are drop-in replacements but would require reusing or getting a new heater cartridge. Mine only came with a new thermistor.

This happened to me about 2 months in. I had octoprint up and running within a couple weeks so it's not as if I used it so much. Anyway, I had a replacement screen sent to me by Comgrow when I did a warranty claim. You can buy replacement knobs which I did to repair my old screen if I ever needed to, but that will take a little soldering.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

So, I would strongly recommend finding one of the Youtube videos that goes through step-by-step on how to assemble the E3V2 in a way that minimizes problems later.

I actually pulled mine apart and reassembled it again in order to get the tolerances just right and everything square and aligned as much as you can. It's very helpful down the line.

Also, go buy this immediately: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DN6RM2?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

1) The bed springs are light years better than stock, bed will be easier to level and keep level

2) The plastic spring holder on the extruder is one of the most common failures, and the metal replacement is quick and easy

3) The upraded capcircon tube is better than the stock one, filament will move easier, jam less, is more heat resistant.

>PEI coated spring steel bed

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-235x235mm-Removable-Replacement/dp/B092ZVTJSK

I got myself: CR Touch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09936TNJV/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_9UqYO9suY6W8S

Direct drive upgrade kit amazon.com/dp/B09NV

Install them at the same time because you'll need to access the MB for both parts.

I would add .. loosen and re tighten the eccentric nut on the bottom roller. You may have to loosen the bolt a bit to get that to happen. (never force things--this is weak metal and can strip). YOu will know it is good when the carriage doesn't wobble, and the wheels can barely be turned with two fingers--not easily turned either. Don't be afraid of a bit tighter than some suggest (just a bit). You don't want any carriage wobble. Those pom wheels are cheap and easy parts to replace. I suggest ones that have a v-channel in them for future replacements(LINK)

Also use a brass or nylon brush and carefully clean that build up of POM dust. Run the brush over the contact spots on the rail also. Otherwise you will get a bump in the road and that will transfer to prints.

In my case I didn’t really notice any difference, but that doesn’t mean you won’t. If you want to try, they are pretty cheap on Amazon. This is the one I got

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TGJSNJB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

It’s like $7

I don’t know your level of technical experience, but if your up to it one thing that might help that’s free is to turn down the drive current for the extruder stepper motor, since with the 3 to 1 gearing in the BMG type extruder you don’t need as much torque. I assume you have a 3V2 printer with the Crealty 4.2.2 controller board. To change the current on that you need a voltmeter to measure the voltage that controls the driver current and adjust it through a little potentiometer on the controller board. If you have a volt meter it’s pretty easy to do and you can find some YouTube videos showing the process. You can turn it down to like 3/4 or maybe even2/3 of the current value pretty safely. Again, can’t guarantee it will help.

If you decide to try the pancake motor, you should probably leave the drive current at it’s existing value sine the thinner motors have less torque for a given current.

If you want to do a new enclosure and cooling, I’d consider going with something that can take a Noctua 40x40x20 fan for at least the heatsink cooling and get at least that one that runs all the time super quiet.

Some people say that these don’t move enough air, but there is a YouTube video out there where some temp tests were done that show in at least that case, the Noctua actually cooled better than the stock 40x40x10 fan, probably because while slower the double height more than makes up for it. The down side is you can’t get 24V ones, so need to add in a buck converter to provide a 12V supply for it.

The part cooling isn’t as important to get real quiet, sine it doesn’t run all the time, partly dependent on the filament you use, and also if you have dual ones they probably don’t need to run at full speed except in rare cases. I kind of like the ones with two blower style for part cooling because they don’t seem quite as bulky and you can get 24V versions. Though the ones with two more Noctua’s for part cooling look interesting. You can use the same buck converter as for the always on heatsink fan since you need to wire these differently so the PWM speed control still works.

There is a YouTube video out there where he tested a whole bunch of ducts on the bench to see which moved more air and seemed to direct it better. I’d take the data with a grain of salt, but worth at least listening to.

Since you probably can’t print new ducts with the bad fan, if you just want another same size but maybe a little quieter, I replaced mine with this one

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9Q3FHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Seems a little quieter, and only $11, so cheap enough to get you running while you go for something fancier if you want to.

If you'd asked a few years ago, I would've said yes without hesitation. Now there are more beginner-friendly options that require less tinkering.

The Ender 2 Pro prints very well, and if you don't mind the smaller size, is a very good entry point:

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Lightweight-Motherboard-Cantilever/dp/B09J2242QM

The build plate is smaller, but that may actually be a benefit, as there's less chance for warping. You still have to tram the bed, but you might be fine without ABL. Also, it's simpler to assemble than the e3v2.

There are a couple possibilities. There is a thermistor attached to the bottom of the bed and the wires come out along with the power wires through the cable off the back.

It could be the connection to the control board came loose. It could be that those wires broke somewhere, or it could be that the thermistor itself is bad.

I’d take the cover off the control board compartment first and check the cone connection.

Don’t know how technical you are or if you have a multimeter to check resistance or not. If you do, while checking the connection you can measure the resistance of the thermistor at its connector after unplugging it. It’s bad if it shows open or shorted.

Aldo check the wires near the back of the bed to see if something broke there with use (you didn’t say if the printer was old or new).

The error you get is a safety warning. The controller won’t heat the bed if it doesn’t get a reasonable temp value from the thermistor to prevent thermal runaway and possible fires or damage.

If nothing seems disconnected or broken, then your only real option is to replace the printer bed. It’s theoretical possible to just replace a bad thermistor but everything is glued together so not anything for the faint hearted, especially done you can easily damage the heater on the bottom of the bed and be just as bad off.

You can order replacement beds from Crealty or get one on Amazon. Here is a link to one for $25,

https://smile.amazon.com/Ender-V2-Heated-Bed-Replacement/dp/B08VHTW8CQ/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?crid=1B9K89QT0CNHB&amp;keywords=Ender+3v2+bed&amp;qid=1669024992&amp;s=industrial&amp;sprefix=ender+3v2+bed%2Cindustrial%2C192&amp;sr=1-15-spons&amp;sp_csd=d2l...

I ordered this last week just to have one hand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QF1TVJ1?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

That is a basic sensor. Run out of filament and the switch is triggered. You can pay more and get one that read like a mouse wheel. They will also stop on filament jams as they note when their wheel stops turning when it shouldnt. This is the one I use: Bigtree

I've got a DOBESTFY build plate cover on my Ender 3 v2. I've had the one that's on it now for a year and a half. I'm not sure what it's made of but it has worked well for me. I clean with soap and water from time to time but most of the time I use rubbing alcohol, I think 90%. Before I got this I used glue a lot and still had the same problem you're having. I want to build an enclosure soon, not only to help with bed adhesion but I want to build a Voron 2.4 and need to be able to print ABS.

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K81LGVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

I see everyone suggests you replace your thermistor, but I really think you just need a new heating block and nozzle. Even if you decided to get an all-metal hotend kit, like the MicroSwiss, they would have you reuse your thermistor and heater cartridge.

Just in case you get to the point where it's becoming too much trouble to fix... a complete hotend + wiring harness is only $15 USD.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-Original-Hotend-Assembled/dp/B08XW17C27/

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08XXP1SD9/ref=sspa\_dk\_detail\_5?psc=1&amp;pd\_rd\_i=B08XXP1SD9&amp;pd\_rd\_w=aQhy5&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.c7dca932-da6a-44fc-af09-cc68d2449b34&amp;pf\_rd\_p=c7dca932-da6a-44fc-af09-cc68d2449b34&amp;pf\_rd\_r=VKYQ78TC8...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B092HKZMQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 this is the one I have and it works brilliantly (uk link)

I am using these, they are drop in for the stock fans on Ender 3 V2. I can't help but notice someone mentioned 12v (these are 24v) which is what the stock fans that came with my ender were labeled as. Not sure if it is a typo or manufacturing variation, but just double check the voltage on yours.

These are many times quieter than the fans that came with my printer, the part fan even rattled a bit when not running due to the vibrations the other fan generated. Your milage may vary, but these were a huge upgrade for me, as far as noise goes.

Blower fan (part cooling fan) WINSINN 40mm Blower Fan 24V,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RNPJ1YS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat break (always on fan) WINSINN 40mm Fan 24V, Ender 3 Fan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R9L9YR2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes, sounds exactly right. The bed is moving parallel to its surface, but the gantry is perpendicular to the bottom rails instead of the bed surface. It’s easier to think about in the x axis, if you think of the x axis rail parallel to the bed but the two verticals skewed to one side so these 4 lines form parallelogram instead of a rectangle. You get perfect layers but each is offset a bit as the z axis rises.

You can either try to shim the y rail mounting in the middle of the printer to make it perpendicular to the verticals or move the verticals so they are perpendicular to the bed. I suggest the latter.

Get one of these stiffener kits

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDB6X5N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

Or something similar. Besides making the gantry really stable, they will allow you to move the top of the gantry a bit front or back to make it perpendicular to the bed till your tall prints are straight.

Most people don’t notice this problem because it doesn’t really show on short prints or on most large prints because they don’t tend to have straight verticals.

I’m currently running the fans and cover that came with the Ender 3v2. I get great prints so haven’t been able to work up a great reason to change😀. I have upgraded the hotend to a copper heat block and a copperhead heatbreak, but that all fits in the stock cover.

I’m using this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KG8MMQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

UniTak bracket with a BMG clone Extruder and a TwoTrees pancake motor. Works great, but seems to get in the way of cooling upgrades.

I’ve looked around a little and so far haven’t found and designs I like and not sure I found any that would fit. It one of the next things kn my list to do. I guess I could change to a different direct drive mount that has a cooler that works with it, but I love his solid this one is, all aluminum and uses the stock metal cr-touch mount. It like to keep that. Having the probe hang off the cooling duct just seems wrong somehow - and it means probably needing to tweak the z offset anytime tpu take the duct cover off and replace it.

So I’m not sure just where I’ll end up. Maybe build my own around the bracket I like!

i recently bought the Beaglecam and this smart plug https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B09F8SL2KP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

With the App for the Smart plug u can set a timer when it should turn off a single power outlet, so if my print time is 20hrs i set the timer to 21hrs and well .. so far i had no problems using this setup.

Ok, wasn’t thinking of tall prints. With the geometry of these printers, you’re right. Even with the planes parallel, the printing can shift to the side or front/back as it gets higher.

You could try shimming the back but there is nothing really to shim to since it just bolts to the one center cross member. That’s one thing I don’t like about this printer design. The other way would be to purpose tilt the gantry back a bit so it is perpendicular to the y axis as it is. This would be easy to do if you order a couple of the gantry stabilizer rails.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDB6X5N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

I put these on mine, and besides making it easy to fine tune the gantry front to back tilt they make the whole gantry really solid. No worry knocking it out of true when moving it.

I guess I never thought of the leaning tower sort of effect your seeing since the prints I’ve done either weren’t that tall or were oddly shooed enough you wouldn’t notice it.

I’ll have to try a narrow tower, like a height xyz cube, and see what it looks like. Maybe I’ll make a text print that’s like cross on the bed with a tower at the cross, all like 100 or 150mm long. It would test this and be a good test for shrinkage compensation for different materials too.

Go buy one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Thermistor-Temperature-Printer-Extruder/dp/B08YNX79H8/ref=asc\_df\_B08YNX79H8/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=533098156959&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=4142632378122621486&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp...

Slap one of those fire extinguisher balls on top of the printer for some peace of mind, then print away. If the printer catches fire it will shower the flames with extinguisher powder.

This is the one I have. You can print a little gantry stand for it, there are a few options on thingiverse.