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I'll head out to Agway shortly and hopefully deliver.

Why not - New Year New Trees.

edit 1: So there's about 2000 upvotes, that's a lot of trees.

edit 2: Here is my attempt at delivering. New Year - New Trees

Not a true jade, but rather portulacaria afra, aka Elephant Bush. Super cute, though. If you want it to last for a few years, it will need to be on the sill of a bright window or get supplemental lighting with a good grow light. You could buy a dedicated grow lamp (but then you’d have to put up with that awful purple light), otherwise a gooseneck desk lamp with a 100 watt equivalent CFL daylight (6500k) bulb (not LED) placed a few inches above the plant should work ok.

Okay team - I guess I have an obligation now.

I've been looking into the price of seeds for trees and have had mixed discoveries. Regardless, 2000 trees cost a lot of money. I'm thinking about starting some sort of crowd funding source to begin fundraising to purchase seeds or donate to the professionals.

TL;DR: Trees Cost Money. Crowdfunding.

Edit 1: Here is my attempt at delivering. New Year - New Trees

Prarifire Crabapples are fairly common landscape trees where I live (Utah). The flowers on that tree are too big to be a Crabapple. Here's a Prariefire Crabapple.

It looks more like a Japanese Cherry.

I would highly recommend reading this book by Tony Avent. Though aging, it really is an invaluable resource. It's the book that convinced me that becoming a nurseryman was not the right choice for me - not because it's negative, but because it presents the very real challenges of running this type of business. It will also take you step by step through all the tasks you need to do to succeed.

I think you're on the right track with your questions. You'll need to do a lot of market research to figure out where is the best opportunity for you, be that geographically, wholesale/retail, boutique or meat & potatoes. Good luck!

Manual of Woody Landscape Plants Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics, Culture, Propogation and Uses Unabridged. Dirr

https://www.amazon.com/Landscape-Identification-Ornamental-Characteristics-Propogation/dp/1588748685

Thanks! I Googled it and interestingly, van Gogh did a bunch of paintings and sketches of this type of tree! Examples:

http://www.wikiart.org/en/vincent-van-gogh/road-with-pollard-willows-and-man-with-broom-1881

http://www.wikiart.org/en/vincent-van-gogh/pollard-willows-and-setting-sun-1888

They are called Candelabra Trees.

Here's another article. Both articles attribute the usual structure to high winds and salty air from the ocean.

Ooh, it might be, or maybe it's a Reddit Enhancement Suite thing. Didn't think about that.

• edit: Can confirm it's an RES feature. I apologize, I feel silly for not considering that could be the case!

Probably either loblolly (P. taeda) or slash (P. elliottii). Needles should be in 3s (loblolly) or mostly 2s/some 3s (slash), though I'm not sure how reliable that is for juvenile trees. Hard to tell number from your photo.

Sand pine typically has needles in 2s and they're fairly short (2-3"), which makes me rule out that ID for your plant.

You shouldn't have a problem transplanting. I might keep it in a sheltered location until spring to plant. Then just dig a hole about the size of the container it's in, maybe a little wider. Coastal AL and central MS aren't all they different and loblolly and slash pine grow in both places with no trouble. Don't amend the soil when you plant. Just wash away the soil it's in now, look for any roots that might be problematic (e.g. circling roots, roots pressing up against the trunk) and remove them, and plant at the same level it is currently at right now. Then mulch with some arborist wood chips if you have any available (bark mulch is an okay but inferior alternative). Here's a good primer from a landscape horticulture professor on how to plant trees: https://www.slideshare.net/LindaCS/bare-root-primer

Are there any Arborists who can tell me if this tree is really dying and needs to come down? I'm fighting a local housing development company who wants to bring it down, they're offering to give me full control of the land it's on with the responsibility but I need to figure this out by Monday and need all the help I can get.

Here's their report:

https://www.docdroid.net/sMgyL3c/kenton-bank-foot-phases-2a-and-3a-rev-1-pdf

Which says:

>Swollen base. Basal wounds. Exudates from wound at 4m. Extensive cavities in main stem at 4m.

Thanks!

> Artificial seed selection has been happening for a long time. Genetic manipulation is even already a thing, it's crazy uncommon but there is research being conducted. > Honestly though, a major issue is that without the periods of downtime for growing to halt or slow the wood quality suffers A LOT. The best thing for quality wood is time. > This is an example of a species of Eucalyptus grown in Brazil in 5.5 years. It's main market is pulp for paper and poor quality wood products. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2012/nov/15/gm-trees-bred-world-energy

Looks like a Muskogee crape myrtle.

4 Pack Muskogee (Lavender) Crape Myrtle Trees - 4 Live Plants - Quart Containers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9QF38U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DV55YDSDSS6ZSVVR6BQ2

Fungus gnats thrive in wet soil and their larvae often will come in the bag with your potting soil, unless it is pasteurized. Here's a helpful page on how to deal with them: https://farmerfredrant.blogspot.se/2010/12/fungus-gnats-on-houseplants-how-to.html

I've been successful controlling them with Gnatrol, which is a biological larvicide but I'm currently unable to find any smaller quantities than 16 pounds of the stuff on either ebay or Amazon ATM...

I did find this product, whose active ingredient is bacillus thuringiensis, same as Gnatrol, but it is in a lighter concentration. It might be worth a shot.

https://www.amazon.com/Flower-Leaf-Press-Nature-Crafts/dp/B0751X7Q17/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=leaf+pressing+kit&qid=1602365079&sr=8-15

​

You can frame pressings too

This will be long.

Get a good field guide or two. The Golden Book of Trees has drawing on one side and a description on the other. I also use Peterson Guides,

Observation is a key. Drawing twings and leaves will open your eyes.

A dichotomous key gives you two choices that help pare down the list. Things like.

• opposite or alternate leaves
• simple or compound leaves
• palmate veins or pinnate veins
• then look at the margins.

Maples will be opposite with palmate veins. Oaks will be alternate with pinnate veins. You can’t confuse the two once you know what to look for.

Buckeyes are palmately compound and locust are pinnately compound, for example.

All of the evergreens in the background are western Hemlock, none of them are Douglas Firs. The bark is in flakey, shallower groovey sections rather than the long deep grooves of a doug and the branch shape gives it away as hemlock.

BEFORE you pick up pruners please pick up a book.
It's a lovely tree that could use one or two cuts but that have to be done the correct way at the correct time in the correct spot.

I recommend The Pruning of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers by George E. Brown & Tony Kirkham.

Alternatively, go to the library or even search online but vet the damn info- there's a lot of sloppy pruning out there and one bad cut could ruin this tree.

If you'd rather hire someone the same caveat applies- a guy with a saw is not necessarily a qualified pruner person, hire qualified professionals.

Ah, try this stuff! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DQCEIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's like night and day. This is the first year we've actually had a garden because of it. Most of the perennials are gone by early June, but they've all gone completely untouched since we started using this stuff. Your mileage may very obviously, but it works on our deer at least!

I wouldn't ever suggest to burn the camera out with a laser from a wide angle. Because then you'd never need to buy a laser pointer a bit stronger than a cat toy, like this one. I also wouldn't have to tell you to not point that laser at your eyes or anyone elses. Then you'd never have a few days of freedom from spying cameras to do what you want.

Also,you could check local ordinances. Depending on where you are they my have needed a permit for that. Some places are pretty feisty about non-permeable surfaces these days.

I bought this book years ago and use it frequently. I like the accurate but simple line drawings. Of course it doesn’t cover all of N America and isn’t specific to Quercus but NJ has an amazing number of tree species and this book has most of them. https://www.amazon.com/Common-Forest-Trees-New-Jersey/dp/B01G4JE7WW

Unfortunately, how and what to seal a wound with is hotly debated. Never have read of super glue being used but also haven't read about it being bad.

Personally, I use this to help my oak trees keep away the nasty oak wilt.

I.S.A. Certified Arborist study guide. Good book to get familiar with. Amazon link just for info. Widely available. https://www.amazon.com/Arborists-Certification-Study-Guide-Sharon/dp/1881956695?dplnkId=75aaf606-97c9-480f-a931-961e4036d44a&nodl=1

Something like this with giant teeth. I’ve tried to cut wood with a saw like that and even seasoned wood was hard work. As the other comment said pay someone local with that £60 would get it cleared in a day

What you're doing is another good method. Just make sure you're testing the root ball, too.

As far as water goes, slow + long + infrequent is much better than short daily waterings. Depending on the tree, once or twice a week. My tree-form panicle hydrangea melted if I didn't water twice a week. I used a tree bag for the most part. They do a good job of taking the guesswork out of flow rate and time when doing it with a soaker hose or watering wand.

I forgot to mention, I asked about how you were watering because watering from the top can promote fungal issues.

Appreciate your input, you’re right that I’m probably dealing with cats that are sneakier than I thought.

By “Cat Grass”, is something like this what you mean (https://www.chewy.com/cat-ladies-cat-grass-kit-decorative/dp/337425)? I’ve never really tried with plants before, so I’ve never had to worry about the cats with them (though I did make sure what I got was cat safe).

Thanks!

Amazon sells this. I bought a bottle to root a cutting off my umbrella tree. Clonex 100524687 250 Ml Hydrodynamics Rooting Gel, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000E1B6HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_BJ942YQ7DPVSFEC5R22Z

It was a gift, and it really is cool. The brand is Gonicc and you can find more information about it here

Yeah they can definitely end up looking like a big lump. Sounds like maybe what you’re looking to do is lift the branch structure up enough to see some of the trunk and branch structure.

I really wouldn’t recommend pruning it the way shown in the second photo, it’ll become a maintenance nightmare. It’s hard to explain without being there to show you, but every heading cut you make will produce at least two more branches from the location of the cut (the hydra effect). A heading cut is when you don’t remove the branch at the joint where it meets another branch. The second photo is basically all heading cuts, so every year you’ll have to go back and remove all the crazy weird new growth and you’ll basically just be shearing it at that point.

You’ll want to make selective cuts back to the joint on the lowest hanging branches to gradually thin and lift the canopy.

Read a book like this one which will do a way better job of explaining the different types of cuts and what they do. I can’t recommend this enough. If you disregard everything else I say, at least to read through a book or two like this one before getting started.

https://www.amazon.com/Cass-Turnbulls-Guide-Pruning-3rd/dp/1570617511

Start with removing dead, dying, or diseased branches and go slow. You can always take off more, but you can’t put it back on.

Good luck!

This pesticide will kill them however it takes time, you need to manually assault them with e.g. neem oil while you see them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARKS5QO/

This pesticide is approved for use in fruit-bearing plants if you follow the instructions but you might not want to, if you prefer organic foods.

Note that this is one of the pesticides that weakens honeybees, if you just have one tree it probably won't make much of a difference to the local bees but don't go nuts over using this on every tree in your yard.

It was along this loop in Morgan Territory. We were hiking it counterclockwise, and I believe it was near the end of the loop, maybe in the last third?

Apologies if I'm breaking subreddit rules but I have until Monday to save this tree and my post text isn't showing so I'm just going to post it as a comment. Hope that's okay!

https://imgur.com/a/63Xfcsa

Are there any Arborists who can tell me if this tree is really dying and needs to come down? I'm fighting a local housing development company who wants to bring it down, they're offering to give me full control of the land it's on with the responsibility but I need to figure this out by Monday and need all the help I can get.

Here's their report:

https://www.docdroid.net/sMgyL3c/kenton-bank-foot-phases-2a-and-3a-rev-1-pdf

Which says:

>Swollen base. Basal wounds. Exudates from wound at 4m. Extensive cavities in main stem at 4m.

Thanks!

You missed my edit. The leaves are exactly symmetrical on the stem which is more like an ash tree:

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ash%20leaves&qs=IM&form=QBIR&pq=ash%20le&sc=8-6&sp=2&sk=IM1

I didn't see that symmetry in any of the elm pics:

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Elm+Leaves&FORM=RESTAB

Fiskars and Corona are good brands. I linked to Amazon but feel free to shop local.

A folding saw like the Corona is convenient as is can be carried in a tool box and the teeth are protected. The one piece, like the Fiskar, are stronger and are good when you are trimming a lot. Corona also makes that style.

> I don't want to dig them up as they've been growing a few years and are doing very well.

If the tree is still small it will be okay to replant at proper depth even several years later. You'd have to dig wide and deep to get as much of the root system as possible (if it left the planting hole very far), re-establish the location of the root flare and plant at grade.

> So I've dug around their base to expose the flare, but now it's created a recessed area around the tree. Should I just try to level out the surrounding area as best as I can?

Did you find the actual root flare or did you stop when you found masses of fine roots? Don't be fooled into thinking you've found the flare until you find taper and larger lateral roots. The fine roots you're finding growing from the stem above the flare are called 'adventitious' roots, and they form due to the constant contact of moisture and soil on the part of the tree that was not meant to have moisture and soil in contact with it. These are the roots that go on to form girdling roots and they need to be removed.

If you're certain that you have found the flare and it is no further down than a couple of inches, you can certainly regrade the area as best you can to bring the flare to the surface. Leaving it sitting in a bowl is not optimal as you noted, not so much due to collecting water, but because the bowl will just keep filling back in with blown in debris, dust, soil and weeds. This is why things like tree wells for trees where it's far too late to remedy a too-deep planting are, at best, a band-aid and not a long-term solution.

in suburbia, I'd definitely go down to a smaller size. I tried one of those style burns while using a lidded campfire holder like these, but with no holes for air, and the process still sent up enough smoke that my eternal neutral-passive-agressive neighbor came over, threw water on it, lectured me on town codes, and went back over while threatening to call the fire department. When you're choking out the air, a massive thick blue cloud of smoke will billow out- all the materials being combusted other than carbon (properly done, charcoal is pure carbon; it rings like metal and is highly conductive to electricity. Most people end up with biochar, and so did I. 3 burns produced a tiny box of proper charcoal). This was done at the bottom of our 1/4 acre lot, as far away from his house as possible, hidden under pine trees.

A coffee-can size might be small enough to get around any suspicion.

Your suburb may vary, who knows. That neighbor is just kinda a prick, most of the neihgborhood is burbbillies who build on shitty pallet-n-sheet-metal extenstions with a few abandoned houses, who couldn't give a shit, but he does.

I very much recommend going to see the Cypress Tree Tunnel, Point Reyes, CA !

Early settlers used this species to form windbreaks up and down the Northern California Coastline.
Also Sea Ranch is a somewhat secluded Modernist Architectural Development that used new/existing trees to their advantage.

I get that. Back in Miami, everyone loved the rare "cold" days when the temperatures went below 70 because it was exciting and different. When I tell my family that it's 65/35 here, they ask how I couldn't enjoy such beautiful, perfectly chilly weather.

I like going on Weatherspark and looking at all of the different places. The Southeast US has one of the most variable climates in the world.

https://weatherspark.com/map

It's actually been much hotter this month. It was 91 degrees today, setting a new record for February. When I saw the temperature, I knew I had to go outside and take pictures of the confused trees.

https://weatherspark.com/h/d/146747/2019/2/23/Historical-Weather-on-Saturday-February-23-2019-at-Gainesville-Regional-Airport-Florida-United-States

Ooh, found a good pic of Norway spruce that reminds me of the movie. I was really curious about all those bare branches which do a lot of heavy lifting in the setting! I was also wondering about whether this would have been a forestry area, as the trees seem to be quite uniform in size.

Thanks for that, don't know much about conifers as I am in Australia with a very few native evergreens and LOTS of introduced pinus radiata.

When cabling trees we always used a come along to provide enough tension. This will allow you to gradually apply tension and will be much more controlled than a truck. TEKTON 5541 2-Ton Power Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPZ48A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1E249KN4T0C637K6HNYK

One of my favorite books of all time is the Manual of Woody Landscape Plants: Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics, Culture, Propogation and Uses by Dr. Michael Dirr from the University of Georgia. This book may not be the most helpful with seed germination, but it is basically a woody plant bible for the most common woody plants you can find in the US. I purchased mine for a Woody ID class when I was in college and it continues to be one of my most used textbooks years after graduating. Be warned this is a very dense book (just over 1000 pages long). It's also fairly expensive but in my opinion it's worth it.

Cut that split as close to the main trunk as possible. Then get some cut paste, and slap it in the entire wound.

I use this for my plants

Kiyonal New Bonsai Pruning Cutting Paste 100g Made in Japan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJM7TMI

Prime Screen [25 Pack] Marijuana Drug Test Kit - Medically Approved Urine Drug Screening Test - Detecting Any Form of THC Cannabis Use - WDTH-114 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PNRG11T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EPY16TERRGRW5ARASWSH

I think Amazon sells miniature greenhouse things that you can get for pretty cheap. Maybe that would be enough for them to survive the winter?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ohuhu-House-Shaped-Greenhouse-Reinforced-Waterproof/dp/B089K8Z8SP/ref=sr\_1\_16?dchild=1&keywords=mini+greenhouse&qid=1632936160&sr=8-16

Actually, you CAN use plant tape, and is what I'd use, periodically changing/reapplying it once a month. (Just one type I found. I would NOT use the very thin plastic kind that you make knots to tie and fasten) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092DB36SG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9694YRHA6N51VC45XE1W

Yes, read on the individual species some required scarification (what you were trying to do) and some required stratification (cold climate) where you put it in the fridge!

If you have seeds that doesn't not required this just plant your seeds less than an inch deep, you want in it soil but still able to get light!

I have a super sprouter, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY5SWRX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_3MRYWD971XDNC36S79AA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Equip with a heat mat that guarantee 1 out of every 5 seeds germination but at the end of the day it's all numbers games with seeds lol

Another advice would be to leave them in a cup of water, the ones that sink are viable

I have cascade Olympic natural history. I think it's a little big to be a trailside reference as it claims to be, but it's a great source of info.

I also absolutely love forest giants of the pacific coast but looks like it's out of print

Thanks, the trees are already 50 feet tall and mostly in good shape, just the lower half suffers from this so I don't want to cut them down. I can take samples to the local extension, however, do you think it would be worthwhile just to apply this for this season to see if it helps? I would imagine it wouldn't damage the trees.

I have Colorado Spruce's that last year or the year before's growth consistently dies off. I have some of this laying around, would this be adequate? The instruction's don't say anything about spruces only pines.

Thanks! I’m flattered but the real maple experts wrote this book Maples of the world. It’s amazing how many species, varieties and cultivars there are!

Https://www.amazon.com/dp/0881920002/

Thanks for sharing your redwood picture.

thanks! i’m really happy with how they’re comin’ along.

lights are monios L “t5 LEDs”

their PAR is decent and the PPFD is alright. the ficus are doing fine with them but the spekbooms would like a little more light. c’est la vie. i have some expensive spider farmers up top for my actual trees but couldn’t afford a full SF setup. maybe next season i’ll get another set and use the monios for side-lighting.

Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCQQLW5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yDnJFbAW0EB01
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Brown spots, leaves continue to fall off and have been for months 85% gone. This tree is in Massachusetts, US. I don't know the species of tree. This is the second year this has happened. I don't know what I don't know here, so just tell me what information you need and I'll get it to you.

EDIT:
Leaf Rust? Any recommendations on product I should use.
First hit on Amazon is Southern Ag - Liquid Copper Fungicide?

Those are hybrid willows other known as aussie willows. They grow very fast and are available on Amazon.

10 Austree Hybrid Willow Trees - Ready to Plant - Fast Growing Tree https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PGP13P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.1MaEb65BK0ZD

In order to link a photo you have to upload it to a photo sharing app like Imgur and then copy the link from there and paste it in the comments.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.imgur.mobile

> Get ladybird nymphs from the Internet to control them biologically.

Great suggestion! I've done this, and am a huge fan!

It's an app! I took the pictures with my phone, and used "Dallas" in the app.

Here's a link to the Prisma app for Android and iOS!

They make glasses to see dead/stressed plants, they work pretty well, but the ornamentals that have odd colored leaves usually show up as being stressed.

Thanks I really like it too! I got it on amazon!

wow, this is a crap ton of data on that site! I can't even figure out how to find those 3 things. Anyway, can I just pick up a test kit from Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/

I'm lazy and getting stuff shipped to my home is easier than taking soil somewhere, lol

There is an adorable picture book where parents plant a tree for their new baby. I highly recommend it and I think you and your daughter would dig it.

Maple https://www.amazon.com/dp/039916085X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rn16zbKR1498W

It became a series of books but the first one is the best.

This book by Dr. Michael Dirr. This was the textbook we used for tree identification class. One of my favorite books I own and I use this book all the time to ID trees here

Edit: I posted a sample page from the book so you can have an idea what the book pages look like http://i.imgur.com/M5pLwy4.jpg

This was the product I bought. And to their credit, when I contacted them and told them the seeds were for Sierra Redwood instead of Coast Redwood, they refunded my purchase price (even though I didn't ask/want them to). My request was for them to update their listing to state the correct species of redwood, but they don't seem to have done that.

Don't know what seeds they're selling now, but at least their customer service is good.

I have my little redwood growing in a pot under a CFL grow light... almost 2 years old now.

Oh, and there is also a couple Android apps that do this, but they're not as good as iNaturalist either. I tried this same photo on Pl@ntNet, for example, and it suggested all sorts of seemingly random stuff like a locust, a sweetgum, and some white oaks, but not scarlet oak or any other red oak.