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The most popular reviews in /r/radiocontrol:
Built outta spare parts and a foam kickboard.
Me and my dad run these little quick $60 race boats we found on Amazon. Problem is, the run time is only about 15 minutes. And the low voltage warning gives you about 4 seconds of warning before shutting down.
I've gotten good at timing it with 15% of battery left. But I also don't like jumping in a pond if I screw up!
Edit: for thoes asking this is the boat I specifically ordered, but just searching for rc boats on Amazon there are a large variety of these in the 60-80 dollar range. They're mindblowingly good for the price too. 540 motor and lipo powered. And can recover from capsizing!
EDIT2: I took her out on the maiden voyage yesterday evening to see how it does. I was a little too worried about maintaining correct balance, it floated pretty well, but when you went quicker than a crawl, it starts to dive and wash the deck out. I'll be moving the battery behind the motor, and adding some of the scrap foam pieces to under the front forks to keep the front end out of the water more. That should allow it to move at speed but still easily catch and push boats to shore! I'll share some pictures when I get another good weather day to drive it!
A rubber band powered plane and a book will go a long way for a kid like that. Sounds like me when I was a kid too.
Try this: The Big Book of Airplanes by DK https://www.amazon.com/Big-Book-Airplanes-DK/dp/1465445072/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=plane+book&qid=1619719574&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2941120011&rps=1&s=books&sr=1-4
I had this book as a slightly older kid and loved it. But might not be quite what you're looking for
This might be good too. But at 7 the night need a bit of help with the reading (I have no idea how well an average 7 year old reads).
Links are available in the youtube description, but just in case you came here instead here they are!
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.HonduneGames.ReCharge
IOS: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/recharge-rc/id1277540909?ls=1&mt=8
If you guys have any feedback or wished feel free to comment here, i will check in frequently!
This would make a great second model. First one should be with wing above the fuselage, for increased stability. Some Polish guys made a very nice manual about making one of such models, it can be found here (Google Translated page).
I’m gonna give you a tip that will change your soldering life forever. Throw that solder away. Heavy gauge solder is a pain in the ass.
Get a roll of very thin gauge multi core solder. Something like 0.5mm or smaller. It will up your game 10x at least. Much more control over how much solder you apply. Much quicker to melt. Just all around better.
Between that and a real temperature controlled solder station, you’ll be so much more confident in your work.
Here is what I use and it will last forever: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKF13JY/
But serious. Get thin gauge solder. You’ll wonder why you didn’t sooner.
If it is threaded it is one these,
Threaded Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IZ1RN0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VG77AbWAFPAAA
They are used in actual aircraft, and in 3d printers. With plastics, you put it where you want it, then use a soldering iron to hold it in place till it heats up and melts in. With foam you probably cut a hole bigger than you need, line double, then fill around the hole with glue and your set.
They also come in as many sizes as you could want. Also amazon, ebay, granger, and mcmaster-carr sell them.
No..no vinegar on those electronics. Just a lot of fresh water or rubbing alcohol and then blow it dry and let it set for about a day in the sun, in other words make sure it's truly dry. Then see.if it survives and you are going to run in/near water then you need to look up Conformal Coating. It's easy to do but it's nasty stuff so only do it outside.
I prefer this coating (Link to Amazon) because it is salt-spray tested.
Hey there CelestialAvatar! By looking at your profile, I'm not able to discern whether you are familiar with rc stuff so I hope you don't think I'm patronizing.
The consumer rc toys you see on the shelves of Wal-Mart or Target are not even close to hobby quality rc devices, which can be legitimately dangerous so we do not call them toys. This is why you're getting replies along the lines of "not gonna happen." By your paragraph I would guess you want something for the general public or even children to handle, so I would highly recommend getting some cheap, $20 Wal-Mart cars. I found this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BYLQY2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Gajoub0WRG3W4 It's quite small though because I don't know what size you're looking for.
Anyhow, you could buy a couple of those cheap rc cars that run on AA's and just buy lots of batteries for the day! That would be my recommendation judging by the vague criteria (sorry, but it's true!) you've provided us. If you have more specifications, I'm sure we'd be happy to help! With the budget you have, however, your alternatives are limited.
> Anyone capable of rational thought would see the absurdity of your claim.
My claim is that the FAA is intentionally banning FPV flight and I'm not alone in recognising it. *
Uh... we're talking about the FAA here, rational thought doesn't enter into it. I hate what they are doing but their intention is clear. That you don't want to admit that is just weird when obviously the FAA has been on a power grab recently considering the whole "ban on commercial flight" BS.
>Ill continue flying as I have been.
More power to you, I will too in addition to doing what I can to get these rules overturned. That you think they aren't worth fighting is what is really sad.
You could probably use something like https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B00BWKXTUU, a high power switching regulator. But that's also a bit of extra weight. Plus any kind of regulator/transformer will dissipate heat relative to the current you pull through it, so they're better for low-current applications. I think you'd need a really unusual reason to want this setup instead of just using a new 3 or 4s battery.
Just get a Y extension wire for your servo. It allows two servos to be plugged into one channel. You will may have to make adjustments in your transmitter depending on your use for the servos. Quick amazon search yielded this:
Any RC hobby store or online retailer will have them
most cars with nav screens have a RCA aux in in the center console. You can use the goggles RCA out or a box like this https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-RC832-5\_8Ghz-48CH-Wireless-Raceband-AV-Boscam-FPV-Receiver-p-975426.html
I got these ones: https://www.banggood.com/4PCS-SG90-Mini-Gear-Micro-Servo-9g-For-RC-Airplane-Helicopter-p-1010676.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN which are the exact same as some others I have gotten in a six pack earlier, however when they arrived the sticker on them says: "Tower pro micro servo SG90" rather than just sg90 micro servo.
You really have to tweak the throttle curve and expos to get that gaui in the game to fly anywhere near a real life quad. Once you do, it's pretty good practice though. As far as I know, the USB cable is how Phoenix Sim does their copy protection and only works with transmitters. For the price of what they're charging, you could probably pick up a used Spektrum dx6i and buy this. Hmmm....that's strange, I wonder why a usb adapter needs two full dvd's of software. ;)
I purchased a simulator much like this one on ebay. When I got it I was surprised to see that it actually came with a number of (pirated) simulators on a disc including Phoenix and RealFlight. For the price it would probably be worth trying and it really does look like this one will include those two. I can't say for sure because this isn't the same listing as the one I bought but the pictures are the same.
If this listing expires or something just search ebay for "9 in 1 simulator".
That's usually called a 'barrel plug'. Measure the diameter of the big hole and the little pin (it can help to compare them to a set of drill bits, ideally metric) and look on ebay.
Alternately, look through all the old power plug transformers in the house and see if you can find one that fits.
EDIT: Also, don't just plug in a power supply like the one above, it could cause a fire. Cut the plug off and use it with a proper LIPO battery charger (and if it's 6 years old, the battery will be dead by now. You can replace them with a little work, but it's probably not worth it. Just buy an E010, they fly much, much better than those old helis)
Most cheap RC helis aren't very good. They're fragile and wander around a lot, even though the controls are pretty mushy. Also, you need good throttle control to hold a constant height.
RC quads have the same problem with the throttle, but the horizontal controls are much better and they're much tougher (especially something like the E010
My experience with the E010 is that my 10 year old nephews got on really well with it after a bit of practice, but a 7 year old spent a lot of time either bouncing off the ceiling or scooting around on the floor collecting hairs around the motors. From your description, even this sort of drone may be too hard for your lad.
> could give me a suggestion on what might be safer and a better option?
I recommend a small RC tank. They're slower than cars but you can turn on the spot so they don't get stuck in corners. They can handle floors that aren't perfectly smooth, and climbing over stuff is fun. There are lots of big expensive ones, but you can get something 2-3" long for under $20. I had one like this as an office toy for a while and everyone enjoyed driving it around their desk clutter.
I kinda changed my mind after watching his video, he said the motor was too big and heavy, so what if i added this motor
And this ESC
I feel like thats going to be enough to make it a good improvement on the stock version, dont you agree? I can't figure out what props to put on that motor do, you have any clue?
Also, is the flight controller needed? Looks pretty big to fit in this frame.
I will make sure to keep you updated!
Edit: Im not sure that esc actually have bec. Will i even be able to do this whole mod on a 1s battery ? 3.7V?
Looks similar to a syma s107g. the tail assembly cost around $7-$10... but a new s107g cost around $25 shipped on ebay... I would just get the s108g (updated s107g)
The plane you linked is carbon fiber, not foam. The weight you were feeling was most likely from the battery pack. I think you are grossly overestimating the weight. That being said, it's kinetic force, not weight in this case. I've been close to those big jets and they are more frightening then dangerous, mostly due to the speed of the plane itself and the sound then anything else. But if a pilot is flying one of those most likely he knows what he's doing and there really is little risk. That being said he should have been in a better area to fly the plane. Also, stop worrying so much about things and enjoy life. Maybe ask this guy for some tips on getting your own plane and have him help you learn to fly?
Edit: Here is a Map of official No fly zones regulated by the FAA and other park services. See if your beach is listed here, if not then it was legal for hi to fly.
Looks great! You may want to ditch the TQi radio after that glitch. A lot of the speed runners are using this. It really does give you a very solid and long distance signal (bonus telemetry). https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-Transmitter-Receiver-Crawler-Drifting/dp/B07DPNNTWT
Your totally right that the forces would me minimal, but net thrust isnt the only thing you can look at.
First off, you can do pitot tube equations and get exit speeds as well as pressure. Especially if you have access to a 3d printer.
You also could experiment with different exit nozzle sizes, as well as differently pitched rotors/stators, You could even calculate the optimal efficiency of certain blade/dimension setups by using a pressure sensor, a watt meter, and your scale.
Your a couple of parts, a few reconfigurations, and a well written paper away from a decent master thesis
Was thinking of this BTW, could have sworn I paid less for mine manometer
You'll have to double check to make sure these are the correct physical size, but knockoff brand batteries can work just as well as the Tyco / Mattel, and be a lot cheaper.
I found this charger with 6v battery on amazon for $20.
Also, wow, that Incredible Hulk truck is $300 on amazon? Hopefully thats some renegade bot pricing, you could get a starter hobby-grade rc for that kind of money.
I'll be taking a few more photo's and a video today at the pond!
The motor shaft assembly all came as one set from amazon. It's a reseller from some china-site based on the quality. The motor connection is a simple and common U-joint. I hacked a hole into the foam and aligned how to glue the shaft in place based on how it sat attached the the motor so everything should be pretty close to correctly in relation to each other.
I do not like how excessively the prop shaft sticks out behind the board, but for the cost I originally paid for the assembly and to get it shipped quick, that was the length they had available. which is why I made it a 4 rudder system to try to compensate for the flat hull and low speeds it will need to be able to turn at.
We'll see later today how well it performs, I suspect it will be hilariously capable, but would be equally expecting it to perform terribly and need some adjustments as well. I already want to center the servo behind the motor, as the linkage assembly I currently setup for the motor restricts how far it can turn left. Test drive will let me know if the rudders are enough or if I need to adjust the size of them!
The Spektrum radio is a name brand with more sophisticated features and probably has much better build quality. Any radio with 6 or more channels would work, and it really comes down to how much you want to spend and if you're going to use it for other models too. FlySky stuff is pretty good for the price, also look at an i6S for a nicer form factor. I use an FrSky Taranis for drones and hopefully a work in progress tank project. It doesn't come with a receiver but is a really popular choice with a build quality closer to Spektrum.
why pay 70 when you can pay $53
Edit: nevermind your just a sales bot.
I found the Amazon post. That's at
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-RC-Car-Batteries-Terrains/dp/B094HZKNZL
​
Definitely looks like a Rustler
Edit of the whole post
I found it on Amazon.de, I already searched it there and didn't found anything previously
Thanks to the guy who suggested to search it again (idk why but he deleted the comment)
Link for anyone interested: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/XciteRC-Energyxxl-Battery-300-mAh-Funsky/dp/B01BGZF89A
Cam/transmitter/antenna unit
Receiver unit.
Then you need to find an app that works.
I didnt add, youre going to need to have a battery charger. This is easy to use and user friendly. No complex numbers, just flashy lights. https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/prophet-sport-mini-50w-multichemistry-charger/DYNC2030.html you will also need an adapter for the battery. You should probably just keep the stock XT30 connecter.
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Adapter-Wireless-Connector-Battery/dp/B082M42ZS1
You can’t. RC bodies are disposable wear items designed to protect the electronics underneath them. I suppose you could push it put from the inside with your finger to make it look better but it won’t be the same. It’s fine so long as it isn’t rubbing on a moving part.
You can find unpainted UDR bodies at your local hobby shop or on amazon for about $70. It will need to be coated with lexan paint and reinforced with gorilla tape or the shoe goo method.
Alternatively you can replace it with a steel cage panel kit for $110, that’s what I would do.
This is from the instruction manual:
Rating: DC 3.7 V, 450 mAh
Batteries: 1 x 3.7 V 450 mAh LiPo
Rechargeable Battery Pack
Requires 1 x 3.7 V LiPo Rechargeable
Battery Pack (included)
This should work.
Normally this isnt ideal, but when i was new i used the Ifixit tool kit. Its made for electronics but i found it worked fine with my rc car too
I still use the ifixit driver kit till now sometimes
If your ordering online you can search up 7mm cross wrench
Wheel nuts are in size m4 so the outside diameter is 7mm
Right now im using an electric impact driver with some Driver bits. But id recommend using hand tools for now really. Since you may strip out some plastic threads when screwing stuff in with electric tools. But i will recommend something like the Dewalt electric screwdriver
And no worries about you being a newbie, we all started somewhere and its usually better to ask than do something wrong. Feel free to ask if your unsure in this subreddit!
chinese amazon/bangood garbage
or pxtoys 9300
I've bought a couple of those amazon/bangood cars and they are all the same car just different body and brand.
literally impossible to repair because the screws are superglued and they bonded to the plastic.
For years I’ve been eyeing a stick plane that goes in and out of stock and I really want to buy it, but I know how much more fun 4 channels are than 3.
Similar to this one, no ailerons https://www.amazon.com/Rage-RC-RGRA1111-Vintage-Airplane/dp/B07JKT8WGK/ref=pd_aw_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B07JKT8WGK&psc=1#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div
I might try this one, I want one I could fly inside something like a basketball court https://www.amazon.com/flite-Airplane-Transmitter-Included-EFLU1350/dp/B08V5813CH/ref=pd_aw_ic_dpcp_m_1_m_3?pd_rd_w=zklE5&pf_rd_p=76ca361a-bf6a-4646-9a1c-ec5c5eafbb6b&pf_rd_r=V7R9QSDKYT2HFZEJVM6K&pd_rd_r=0a8f1aba-0303-4ad1-a7fe-4dbaf97...
Generally I’m pretty sure the wifey available 18650 packs are second hand battery cells anyways, unless they’re legit Samsung, Sony, or LG cells, which you wouldn’t know unless you took the packs apart to check them. All of those brands’ “higher end” cells can handle between 20-~30a continuous, so long as you don’t push much more than that for longer periods of time. I’ve been running older emax redbottoms on 30a esc’s for almost since those motors came out, and still haven’t blown one, so as long as OP runs a similar amperage pull motor they’d be fine just soldering up a connector like this one to run two Sony’s, etc. in series, and individually charging them outside of the holder.
You could make one yourself. I did and it works fine, just feels kinda sketchy. I used these holders and soldered wires onto the tabs, on bridging two tabs on the same side and positive and negative respectively. It should be easy enough to make one fit on the CG of the plane, then find a way to remove individual cells as you use them. I’d also suggest soldering up a balance plug to the tabs, not for charging but for battery monitoring with a battery checker if you’re not using an fc with OSD.
Ah okay, yeah I was gonna add a some generator and some lights so I would probably need an aux switch. Would something like this work as the 4th channel is open for programming?
Zeee 11.1V 80C 3S 6000mAh Lipo Battery Hard Case Battery with EC5 Connector for RC 1/8 1/10 Scale Vehicles Car Trucks Boats(2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08699DKRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BSE3TNDH72TQ4FHKN3Y7
> way to find the frequency,
It's 2.4GHz. Which protocol is the real question.
You can find circuit diagrams and such here: https://fccid.io/PQN66802RX2G4
The whole thing can be bought for less than $15, so not sure how much effort you want to put into this.
I use this duster to clean off my RCs where I don't have an air compressor and it puts out a considerable amount of air at usable pressure. It's like a smaller and less powerful electric leaf blower. I think it could be used to inflate an airship because it can also be used for air beds.
>single axis heading lock gyro
would this gyro work? https://www.amazon.com/DUMBORC-2-4G-Inside-Receiver-Transmitter/dp/B07XM2MZW2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=dumbo%2Brc%2Breceiver&qid=1649079563&sprefix=dumbroc%2Caps%2C58&sr=8-5&th=1
Will this one work? DUMBORC X6FG 2.4G 6 Channel Gyro Inside Receiver for RC Car Boat Used for DUMBORC X4 X6 Transmitter (X6FG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XM2MZW2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_7C7DBFZY91PXH1ATS6WW
Using that search phrase, I believe this is the one I have, with trim, and fairly compact.
However not avalible at this retailer currently…
RC LED Light Bar Roof Lamp Headlight Tail Light Kit Bumper Light Compatible with Traxxas RC Car Truck Crawler Tamiya Losi HPI Rustler Axial Police Lights (100mm 2 Bar) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099DK62LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QRJN2C2ZD6PWX8T71NM4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think its [this](rc led light bar roof lamp headlight tail light kit bumper light compatible with traxxas rc car truck crawler tamiya losi hpi rustler axial police lights (100mm 1 bar) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XQ1GTXV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_WNZKB7X4QH1AHTB7KBWQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
25-Pack Hobbypark Adjustable D2.1mm Pushrod Connector Linkage Stoppers RC Model Airplane Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EE5M1FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_8QTQDFY5KH4JK8201PHG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think this is what you were asking about. We make the actual rods out of TIG welding rods.
Looks like an IPEX 4 connector. I've broken more than a few myself so I got a bulk pack years ago and they're still going.
What's the biggest battery (#of cells and maH) that you will need to also charge with it and do you need a charger that does more than one battery at a time?
Just like that, for a single battery, i'd say get a iMax B6AC, they're cheap and they can do charge current in increments of 0.1 amps all the way up to 6 amps, they can also charge NIMH, NICAD batteries as well as your car 12v lead-acid battery if you need to.
But i could suggest other models depending on your real needs, if you detail them to me.
I've used an 18650 battery charger board before. But there are many cheap 1s lipo charging boards that run off usb power, are small, will stop when charged automatically, all you need is a way to connect the positive and negative ends to the charger board.
There are tons of options like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCXPY86/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_M5VN0PJ7RCN300235F55
5PCS 1S 3.7V Lipo 380mah Battery with X5 Battery Charger for Hubsan X4 H107L H107D H107C H107P H108 Holy Stone HS170G HS170 HS170C Protocol Dronium One RC Quadcopter Drone GBlife Bounce Car TOZO Q2020 https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B088QYKP4J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_BGZQXPK23X5MDRYTPZ04
These will fit. With planes, it's better to have multiple small batteries than one large one. Less weight.
The best charger i’ve owned
HOBBYMATE D6 Duo Pro Balance Charger Dual Ports - for Lipo Battery, Li-ion Battery, LiFe Battery, Nimh / Nicd Batttery Pack Charger, Support AC/DC Input （Gray） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DR8HW19/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HRCQ2ZP9T6JHDTDSV74X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’d just like to give you props for thinking of not only your safety but also the other apartment tenants. Lipo fires are rare but they burn super hot. Definitely hot enough to light up a wall, then a room, then the rest of the building.
You should not be paranoid as long as you take the right precautions. You’ve gotten good advice here about only charging in a bat-safe.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXJBRBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_C1YTXZ3ZERXH5BBKDK8A
https://www.amainhobbies.com/batsafe-lipo-charging-case-baf-bat-safe/p698675
I think I saw a cheaper brand on Banggood the other day that runs on Futaba protocols...
Yeah, Radiolink. No idea how good or bad it is, but it claims to run on FHSS, and have gyro receivers. Couple of different versions of the radio too.
There are lots of sub $40 chargers that are good, check with your local hobby shop. But if you're willing to spend a little more hte Hi-Tec C150 is an excellent charger that will "grow with you".
Yeah, you can just buy this and it will run off the 1s battery. You'll have to do a little soldering, but if you're in this hobby you should already know how to do that.
If your asking which solder station to use this is a good basic unit that will last forever:
Syma S107H-E is really easy to fly IMO...
Limited-time deal: Remote Control Helicopter, S107H-E Aircraft with Altitude Hold, One Key take Off/Landing, 3.5 Channel, Gyro Stabilizer and High &Low Speed, LED Light for Indoor to Fly for Kids and Beginners(Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L1NG4JP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_dl_VKDYD9R4R6722YP8R9HN
I just tested mine outside today (6mph wind) and it did really well... much better than any other small helicopters I've owned. I mainly fly it around my office during the day when giving my eyes a break from the screen, it's quiet and only flies for around 6 minutes so I can't procrastinate too long.
I've flown several similar looking helicopters and can promise you that this one is worth the small premium ($48 vs $25) to get a WAY better helicopter.
Sorry I took so long, I had forgotten to ask around about this. Two options are here: . https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Fun-Tak-Mounting-2-Ounce-1865809/dp/B018A3AG0W/
Is this for an rc plane or rc car? If its for an rc plane get the Flysky FS-I6X.
Good start then!
You might also want to pick up a battery voltage alarm. You plug it into the ballance port on the battery and when the voltage gets low, it starts beeping. Like that you avoid discharging the battery too much. You push a little button on it to set the voltage at which the alarm should come on.
ToolkitRC M600 + Power Supply for $52. I think you can find a coupon for that and get them both for around $45.
Just by itself the M600 is only $1 more than the M6, so you might as well go M600 as it is slightly upgraded.
It is but you will be using it longer than the syma. If you want to save a few bucks you can pick it up from banggood.com
Banggood sells everything you need
Shaft: https://www.banggood.com/Stainless-Steel-8mm4mm-Marine-Prop-Shafts-For-RC-Boat-p-934428.html
Joint: https://www.banggood.com/RC-CarBoat-Cardan-Joint-Stainless-Steel-Connector-p-976297.html (you'll most likely need 4*3.17 mm)
Screws are a bit more difficult. Banggood sells quite a bunch of screws, but they're all either 3.17 mm or 4.8 mm id. Though it's possible to bore the hole of 3.17 mm screws. Just take a look around.
I'd guess the mixers use universal motors, and there are ESCs for those - but not from the RC world. That's why I suggested just using the ESCs they come with. Any mains ESC you buy is likely to be similar
You should be able to do some electronic wizardry to replace the input knob with an RC interface, but I think you'll be unlikely to find one ready made.
An alternative would be to for the petrol engine to drive an alternator and regulator/rectifier from a car or motorbike. That would give you 12v DC, then you could use wheelchair motors, or windscreen wiper motors (both of which have nice worm gears) or cordless drill motors and gearboxes.
You really should learn to fly line of sight. Even if you don't normally do it, you need to know how in case something goes wrong. Planes will not hover there and wait for you to figure things out like a quad might.
Never fly in wind that's going faster than your craft is capable of flying. If you do this, the only place your craft can go is more and more downwind.
If you do screw up and violate that last rule, try flying low -- with some luck, the wind will be slower near the ground than up high.
If you're pushing it and the wind speed is close to the max speed of your craft, and especially if the gusts are faster than your plane can fly but the steady wind is lower, keep it upwind of you. If it ever gets downwind of you, treat that as an emergency and put all efforts into getting it back upwind, and if you can't ...
If for whatever reason you can't get it to make any headway back to you -- land it wherever it is, as quickly as possible. If it's a fixed wing, cut power and have it land upwind and the ground speed will be low-ish so that might limit the damage. Once it's down, make sure the throttle is off and then go look for it.
High winds often mean lots of turbulence. It's best to have a plane with lots of control authority if you're flying in high wind -- so you can make large corrections as needed. Of course, this does require quite a bit of skill -- until you have this skill, avoid flying in high winds.
Lost plane alarms like this one work really well and are cheap insurance.
Make sure you name and number are on your craft (and your batteries, and your TX, etc.) If you do lose something, this will greatly increase the chance of you ever seeing it again.
I just snagged up a few extra frames. Being ~$1.50 each (Currently $1.27 on GearBest), they're quite the steal.
I've got another variant in the works for the near future... I just have to finish some of my other projects first.
Here is a picture of how the suspension looks.
I have been asked a lot if I will upload the files when ready, and I have created an account here where they will be available when I am finished if you want a notification.
The tank is powered by two 55T motors attached to a 16:1 gearing I made, and it should go roughly 12 km/h. I plan on making a build overview video on my youtube where I tear the whole thing down to show how everything works.
Good video & Nice editing. When you were flying from indoors, did you have an external antenna or just going through the walls and windows?
What gear are you using for FPV? 5.8G?
Check out my videos too. I appreciate any feedback: https://vimeo.com/album/2707753
You could try hunting around your local thrift stores and local marketplace websites for one. Or go on ebay, here's a H2 that i found, tires could work. h2. I also have an h2 just like this one i linked, coincidentally.
Thanks, everyone.
This is for my kid, who tinkers a lot with paper airplanes already.
Vapor is cool, but I worry that he'd break it pretty quickly. We also have a small house.... maybe slightly too small for that indoors, and it's a little too windy outdoors.
Yeah, FliteTest is great. We've built some of those. But they are outdoors only, and powerful, and big.
Someone in RC groups linked me to this option:
That also fits the bill somewhat, and has better radio than a phone. BUT.... proportional thrust isn't great, and when I said "real radio," I meant a hobby-grade bind-n-fly setup.
Do you know if this transmitter/ reciever set would be compatible with the seaduck? https://www.banggood.com/FlySky-FS-i6-2_4G-6CH-AFHDS-RC-Transmitter-With-FS-iA6-Receiver-p-922606.html?gmcCountry=CH&currency=CHF&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=2zou&utm_campaign=ssc-ch-en-all&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sWJwJ3l3gIVi7UYCh28ug_jEAQYASABEgIJ6_D_BwE&ID=42481&cur_warehouse=CN#jsReviewsWrap
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Volantex has recently made some extremely quality planes. I picked up the Ranger G2 on a sale off banggood recently. I wish I had this plane when I first started. Easily the best flying model I have flown since I started, most of which have been scratch builds however. For 70$ the value is insane. Some literature calls it a glider, which volantex specializes in but it isn't really. It is just a highly efficient plane designed to be a park cruiser.
Right, so they may not be able to fight against air flow across the wing?
The ones I got take 3.7v/5v, not sure what the servo plug offers though.
For reference, this one has a torque of 0.075±0.01Kg·cm and the one i bought has 80g/cm. Not sure how to compare the two though
I have also looked at that transmitter, but I would advise rather going for the 8 or 10 channel. Purely based on 2 things. You will eventually need 8 channels with larger planes. And I have AA batteries. It's only the 8 and 10 channel that comes with LiPO batteries for the transmitter.
I know it's a bit more expensive, but for me that is well worth it. Since you will use 1 transmitter for many aircraft. This is still very affordable.
The Wltoys F949 is probably the best cheap option, but Flybear make cheap and fun RC planes as well:
Currently on sale for $22: https://www.banggood.com/C17-C-17-Transport-373mm-Wingspan-EPP-DIY-RC-Airplane-RTF-p-1176723.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto__1&cur_warehouse=CN
Another Flybear: https://www.banggood.com/Fly-Bear-FX-802-FX-805-FX-807-2_4G-2CH-310mm-EPP-RC-Glider-Airplane-RTF-p-982838.html
There's a more expensive Flybear too with longer range.
this is actually my racing wing, but running a 4s 18650 pack at 3000mah. I use inav with it. The vtx is an 800mw 5.8ghz unit shooting back to my triple feed patch, rx is just an Frsky XM+ with the antenna wires mounted in a V formation for maximum range.
There's currently sale on the base quad for $10.50 at GearBest.
So, with that, the total, including a battery, comes out to $55.50: $10.50 (H8) + $20 (motors) + $17 (camera) + $6 (battery) + $2 (Molex to JST PH 2.0 aka PowerWhoop adapter or a PowerWhoop pigtail to replace the Molex socket on the FC).
Or, with alternate motors, you could knock the total down to $45.50 (less punch - but likely still enough to carry the camera - and longer battery life).
Ah, okay. Well, pending that this battery fits in the same space on your RC vehicle, it meets the voltage and amperage requirements:
If space is not an issue, you could also use a battery with a higher "mAh" (milli-Ampere-hour) rating to power the vehicle for a longer period of time.
You may need to remove the connectors that this ships with an replace them with the one used on your vehicle. Additionally, shipping from Banggood.com usually takes about 30 days, as it comes from Shenzhen, China, and rumor has it that they send stuff via cargo ship.
EDIT: Also, using the charger you currently have on a LiPo setting will be fine, if you don't want to bother with replacing the battery.
I meant this one https://www.banggood.com/EMAX-GT2215-09-1180KV-Outrunner-Brushless-Motor-For-RC-Models-p-1052362.html?rmmds=mywishlist&cur_warehouse=CN
They called it the beef haha. The one you linked is very good too. Light and powerful and it's got a 2210 stator. And so cheap, I use one on a 3d plane and the 1500kv ones on wings
Are you talking about this motor?
I run that in my Bloody Wonder, and it has enough power with a 10x4.5 for vertical takeoff! It's a good motor. I smashed the crap out of one at FliteFest 2016 through 4 combats, and a weekend's worth of "no f*ks given" flying.
I eventually seized a bearing, and just bought 2 more for like $15 from one of the vendors there.
Power supply would need to be something like this http://www.dx.com/p/12v-50a-600w-switching-power-supply-w-fan-silver-311216#.VxE1rBkpBnE. Your average brick power supply you have around isn't meant for more than a few amps. Brushless motors demand alot of power. But /u/apk9 is correct that a servo tester/adjuster is what you need to control the esc(electronic speed control).
Not sure on better ones but the FT011 looks like a speed demon. Gearbest has one on the way to me for review so haven't got to try it out yet to speak first hand. Looks like a nutty little boat. http://www.gearbest.com/rc-boats/pp_331436.html Heres a vid I found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2_3Fs0bjVk&ab_channel=ChenJames
I would be perfectly fine with getting a license for commercial drone use. Unfortunately, it does appear that the FAA is proposing that drone pilots will need "dozens of hours in the cockpit of a manned aircraft" to get licensed. Source
XBees are great and we've used them for other projects before, such as this sign which was amusing enough to post to hackaday. The problem here is we just don't have money for development (people time).