What are /r/windows98's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

You'll need a ps/2 splitter Cable, had one for my old thinkpad 365xd back in the day. StarTech.com 6in PS/2 Keyboard Mouse Splitter Cable Adapter - Keyboard / mouse splitter - PS/2 (M) to PS/2 (F) - 5.9 in - beige - KYC1MF https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000067SLZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_j7gTFb24687YX

You can create partitions first from… well, basically anything, like a live Windows XP (https://www.hirensbootcd.org/hbcd-v152/), they don't need to use fdisk to do it. The problem is that Windows NT doesn't let you normally do a FAT32 partition larger than 32GB and I don't really remember if any of the 3rd party partitioning tools included on a linked CD supports that.

I don't think Windows 98 even has bluetooth stack support. If I was you I would just run a cable to your sound system or get something like this.

I never liked Windows 98 that much. I happened to find your post on /r/all new. So I'm not a typical member of this subreddit.

Anyways the 9x kernel was never that great and the move to NT was more of an improvement than many people realize.

You being 24 you should have had access to more programming opportunities than me and I'm only 30. But I started programming when I was about 14 and I just bought books and read anything I could find online. Plus there's really no better time than to learn now. So just start learning.

Also this project is similar to what you described but based on the NT kernel. https://www.reactos.org

My vote also goes for gParted. I've use it many times and never had any problems with it.

But, you might want to defrag your drive before doing the resize, op.

Here is the link to its website: https://gparted.org/

You running WinQuake of the install CD or playing the normal Quake.exe that is intended for DOS? Also, are you getting music in it cause you need it. Same for Duke Nukem.

As for baseball, and any other CD based game running under DOS mode, you generally need a Soundblaster to CD audio cable. It connects to the CD/DVD drive and directly into your audio card. If you don't have a Creative Soundblaster audio card, the one linked may not work. You would have to locate one made for that audio card.

https://www.amazon.com/CD-ROM-SounDBlaster-Audio-Cable-24in/dp/B000BSJD54/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2D9DR2554HHB4&keywords=soundblaster+audio+cable&qid=1669272214&sprefix=soundblaster+audio+cable%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-3

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Also worth nothing a modern dvd drive will not work. You need a legacy IDE CD drive. New model drives do not have the 4 pin molex to connect that audio cable to. You can fund new old stock CD drives on ebay cheap. I got one less than $20.00 shipped a few months back.

CompactFlash is not really suited for fast, consistent writes. It will stall occasionally while it writes to disk, and many writes will eventually wear the card, even with wear leveling. That said, if you are okay with the performance, then there probably isn't a great reason to change it.

I personally use mSATA cards with an IDE to mSATA adapter: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VQT5YW

I would take the drive over to another system as a secondary drive and perform a scan disk there. I usually connect up drives to my Win10 laptop via one of those USB to SATA/PATA/IDE adapters so I can perform health checks, etc. on drives before I use them with old systems or motherboards. It’s the only way to tell if the problem is the drive itself or else the motherboard or OS. Here’s a link to the type of adapter I use: https://www.amazon.com/EYOOLD-USB-Converter-Adapter-Optical/dp/B073SB3PD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?crid=2WM41MWPHPHMT&keywords=usb+to+sata+ide+adapter+with+power&qid=1660662903&sprefix=usb+to+sata+ide%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-7-spons&psc=1&...

i found this in box https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F5U220-USB-Port-Card/dp/B00005QSPX on the chip it says NEC i am suprised that worked without installing drivers thank u for suggesting now 640 mb copies in 1 min.

I downloaded Atto and it hits only max 60 i checked manual and it says its a UltraATA133. Motherboard is asus k8v-x se if u wanna know.

does it use a typical 2.5" form factor? have you considered any of the IDE SSD's that are available? -- https://www.amazon.com/KingSpec-2-5-inch-Solid-SM2236-Controller/dp/B008RVN97A/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B008RWKFYE

If you are looking for an Compact Flash HDD adapter for your laptop then here you go.

Syba Dual Compact Flash CF to 44 Pin IDE/PATA 2.5" Adapter Enclosure, Black SD-ADA45006 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036DDXUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_M81465N2M5YK7T92ZSGN

JUZHUO Extreme 16GB Compact Flash Memory Card Original Camera Card CF Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LHWX383/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_EF63HBY1MB4PWHSW4Y1J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

SK hynix BC711 128GB PCIe NVMe M.2 2230 Gen 3 x 4 SSD, 0X3K2X, HFM128GD3GX013N, OEM Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZBTW15S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JEWSG2GT46GXHQ41ZNCJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRMUQRG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4313ZZR9HS1QSG74T95T

You can also use these and add SSD or other Sata drives in your system too. I've added sata CD drives to my 98 and DVD and SSD drives to my XP builds using these. They work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Compact-Flash-to-44-Pin-IDE-2-5-Adapter-Enclosure/39809180?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=10288

https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-VPG-65-CompactFlash-LCF64GCRBNA1066/dp/B00IAYFDIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?c=ts&keywords=CompactFlash+Memory+Cards&qid=1648148314&s=pc&sr=1-6&ts_id=1197392

Like these?

about $16 USD you can get the ide to usb adapter then plug it into a modern pc to transfer files. It will make it basically function as an external hard drive. This adapter works with sata or ide and is a good tool to have on hand
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Ide+To+Usb+Adapter&qid=1645304757&sr=8-5
side note: sounds like the graphics card or internal graphics may have failed

Here's the correct link, sorry

https://www.amazon.com/Vonets-VAP11G-300-Wireless-Multi-Functional-Amplifier/dp/B014SK2H6W/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=1F37B5QQE0QE0&keywords=VONETS+VAP11G-300+2.4G+WiFi+Bridge+WiFi+to+Ethernet+Convert%2FMini+WiFi+Repeater%2FAP+Hotspot+Extender+with+RJ4...

Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-UE306-Foldable-10-11-10-15/dp/B00YUU3KC6/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=OFNQ44WPJMM0&keywords=ethernet%2Bto%2Busb%2Badapter&qid=1644603870&sprefix=ethernet%2Bto%2Busb%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-3&th=1#

Actually, you know what? Install FreeDOS www.FreeDOS.org and then install '9x from DOS, that should work better I think. As FreeDOS should have SATA drivers for the DOS part of setup, then the SATA drivers I linked at first should take over after that.

What you need is an "Ethernet to Wi-Fi Bridge"

Maybe something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Vonets-VAP11G-300-Wireless-Repeater-Networking/dp/B011BERBFU/

Basically it converts a regular Ethernet signal into a Wi-Fi one.

You would have to log into a web page to configure the Wireless Network and Key to connect to initially, probably from a modern computer with a modern web browser, and then you can move it to the Win98 PC.

Once you get the ethernet adapter going you can use this device to connect to your wifi if an ethernet jack isn't available.

IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_TMGWDBZZ8KJZ9Y5PHH2B

I made this script using Node:

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https://hastebin.com/lewaqoboxe.js

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It actually does work (you need the HTML/json files BTW) but redirects don't won't, and there's no JS or CSS. It does work a little bit, better than nothing.

I didn't want to deal with wifi drivers and I wanted a solution where:

• I can physically disconnect
• I can add a hardware firewall physically in between win 98 and the world.
• I can reuse the solution for other legacy systems and consoles

I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0118SPFCK

And it's working great. It connects to a wifi network and lets you connect by ethernet.

This page has a link claiming to have the dll you're looking for: https://www.dlldump.com/download-dll-files_new.php/dllfiles/D/dhcpcsvc.dll/5.1.2600.2180/download.html

You might want to download this on a modern PC with an antivirus solution that scans your downloads. DLL hosting sites are notoriously malicious and I don't know the authenticity of this one.

you can create .iso files from the physical discs (i do this on a modern pc by right clicking the cd in file explorer and click on create iso) and use daemon tools to mount them.

if the game requires a cd to play music, you'll need to use .cue files instead of .iso. But you'll need a different ripper app like Alcohol instead.

you can also just use the regular crack files you find on the internet to bypass that entirely (if you don't need a cd for music), Note: a lot of cracks require different steps, look up the proper way per game.

additionally, if you buy an older game on GOG.com, you can just copy/paste those files onto your win98 hard drive and play the games by running the .exe file instead of dosbox. totally works most of the time for games that don't need a cd.

Highly recommend if the laptop has a NIC to use a WiFi bridge. In particular this one which can be powered via a USB port: TP-Link N300 Wireless Portable Nano Travel Router(TL-WR802N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX8BO

I would avoid any of the WiFi adapters that work on 98 that support WPA2 PSK. I’ve used multiple and they’ve been very resource intensive and just very clunky to use

It looks like your disk is connected to the same IDE port as the CD-Rom drive but it doesn't looks like they're both detected in the POST screen. Make sure you've set the jumper configuration correctly on the drives (one is master and one is slave), or connect them to their individual IDE port instead. Maybe your bios has trouble booting in this disk configuration or the IDE emulation of your adapter is garbage. To quickly rule out disk conflicts, unplug the IDE cable from the CD-Rom drive and try to boot from the harddrive.

For simplicity, try to install a simpler operating system like Freedos and see if that will boot.

> I’d like to get the icons correct.

You can grab the icons from a Windows 98 installation if you want, but you will not be able to change system icons apart from a few on your desktop for most parts. Microsoft digitally signs most of the files and if you alter them, W7 will try to recover unaltered versions of them.

The theme itself is not a problem since W7 still supports the classic Windows themes. You might need to tinker with a few colors to make it look more like W98 (the blue gradient in the active window bar for example) but it's possible.

Things like the start menu can be altered using Classic Shell to give it the Windows 98 look and feel.

> I’d also like to change the start up sound to windows 98

This is possible. Most sounds can be changed via the control panel, you just need to copy your old sound files from W98 over. The startup sound can be changed by replacing the appropriate WAVE resource in imageres.dll (please make a copy before modifying it). The file is not signed so you should not run into problems.

> and maybe even the startup screen.

That is unlikely to be possible. Similar to the startup sound, it's probably a hardcoded sequence of images in some random DLL file.

I don't think. USB wasn't really a common thing back then so the DOS emulation was not optimized to handle it. If you're desperate to play old games with new hardware, DOSBox is your best option. I believe it can emulate a game port device from a joystick but I haven't looked at it for a long time now.

If you absolutely must play on this old device, you should try to connect your mouse to the PS/2 port and the controller to something that converts the USB signals to a traditional game port (or midi port) signal. Provided your device has these ports. I'm not familiar with the libretto series but considering how small they are, there is probably a distinctive lack in external port variety.

You could try to install Windows ME instead of 98 but this comes with a whole lot of different problems and there's no guarantee that the DOS handling will be any better. I can't see what Windows versions DOSBox works on but you could of course try to install DOSBox on your device and run the game through that by just setting the CPU speed to be uncapped but I doubt you will get any good results.

If you don't mind using a terminal (it's text based but tries to render graphically) you can also use clonezilla, which can clone a disk onto another and resize the partition automatically for you. It clones in an intelligent fashion where it's aware of the file system on the source and will not copy empty space for much faster operation. If you go with that version, please run scandisk under windows to fix all file system errors before doing so.

If you want a UI, use gparted. Put that on a flash drive (or burn to CD if your PC has no USB boot support yet). Connect both drives (old and new) to the PC at the same time, then boot from CD. You can then copy the partitions to the new drive and resize them.

I was quite surprised to find that LibreOffice version 4.2.8.2 opened my .wps files created by MS works 7.0. I haven't tried any other Works documents, but the .wps files all open flawlessly. (You should try downloading LibreOffice anyway because Open Office is essentially a dead project since Oracle took it over. All the major developers moved over to LibreOffice.)

Microsoft also has a tool designed to convert Works documents into Office documents. I've never used it, and I think you need a copy of MS Office to use it.

If neither of those options work for you, you can search Google for "abandonware" and "Microsoft Works", but of course, you do so at your own risk.

I use this SD adapter, works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YFPX7JB/

I prefer SD over CF because it's easier for modern computers to load stuff on them

I use this adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/SaiDian-Adapter-Compact-Converter-Bracket/dp/B097XS4SXP

I just installed SE onto a 16gb compact flash card. These adapters are nice because you can use any usb cf card reader and add drivers, etc from a modern system. I have found though that you can only use one adapter per ide channel/cable. The slave function on these do not work for me, so get a bigger cf card at the start instead of thinking you can add another down the road. Other than that, works like a charm.

Well, I may have just assumed you had a cable to hook the hard drive to another computer with lol.

What I do when I get these old machines is use a cable like this and then use my Linux machine to run the dd command. Kinda like this: First run lsscsi to easily see what drives are mounted then sudo dd if=/dev/sdb of=/home/drivename.img

Odds are, your other pc is running Windows and I’m not the most familiar with imaging a drive in Windows. I believe you need a third party tool like one of these.

If you’re not super worried about ever going back, you probably don’t need to image the drive. I’ve just made it a habit just in case the drivers don’t exist on the internet anymore, or I break stuff and simply want to go back easily.

I found one book but it's about the registry only: https://www.amazon.com/Inside-Microsoft-Windows-Registry-Mps/dp/1572318244

I was hoping to find something like Windows Internals books about Windows 7: https://www.amazon.com/Windows-Internals-Part-Developer-Reference/dp/0735648735

Yeah it is. This is the product I've been using: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E7EPKUO

Regarding the virus, I just took my Dad's word for it, since he was the one to last use it before we had issues.

The paint was a nightmare, applying a second coat of paint would cuase it to start bubbling up. I had to sand it down multple times. the paint im using is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWOSB2/

Same reason beige boxes are going above $100 now Not too long ago they were considered trash. It's the reason I bought a new case like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CY9TMFO/

and painting it beige. Instead of overpaying for a beige box.

Supply is going down, and Demand is rising, retro computers is slighly more mainstream.

The USB port likely doesn't recognizes a flash drive because Windows 98 lacks drivers for these. You can try to find a generic "mass storage" driver for W98 online.

Otherwise, the easiest way to get the data out is with an IDE to USB adapter. (For example this one)

Take the harddrive out of the laptop and connect it to your modern machine using the adapter. Then copy away whatever you want.

If this is not an option for you, buy a serial to usb adapter, as well as a "null modem" serial cable. You can then use a software like "FastLynx" to copy contents between your modern machine and the Win98 laptop. This is actually what I usually do for my old machines.

I bought these name badge magnets to stick on the back so I don’t go poking holes in shirts. You should cut the pin parts off with pliers and apply the magnet your self and your set to go :D

The D610 should have a PCMCIA slot (it shouldn't be too different from my D620, which I still use as my main PC in 2020). You could try this: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Notebook-PCMCIA/dp/B00067KZJI paired with this guide: https://msfn.org/board/topic/176419-sound-blaster-audigy-2-zs-windows-98-driver/