Of course. I got the liner in person for much cheaper but it can be fond here:
Amazon for the pump can be found here:
As for the barrel, my guy at the lgc said whiskey barrels are becoming increasingly hard to find because of the move towards steel casks. I happened to get lucky. I'm sure you could email Jack Daniels or any other company and buy from them.
It sounds like letting him get out is the right call. Maybe just get an acrilic box and drill a hole in it? Here's a cheap option.
Also i would bet he would enjoy a cave to hide in on the surface.
No such thing as a stupid question! I got myself a python vacuum (around $30 - can’t link to it from mobile but I’ll update tomorrow). I then drain as much as possible to the last inch or so, and then I use a couple towels to soak up the rest. If there’s any residual vinegar, you’ll catch it when you cycle the tank. The python also makes water changes incredibly easy - I use the tank water for my plants, or it drains directly into the nearest tub or sink so less mess!
Edit: Python Vaccum
Are you kidding me?! That’s ridiculously small, he can barely turn around!!!
Jokes aside, it’s a great water volume for him, but it might be a tad deep. They need to reach the surface to breathe with their labyrinth organ, and while they can process air through their gills as well, they do need to reach the surface since most of their air intake is through their labyrinth. I would be concerned with his ability to reach the surface expediently if down low. He will probably spend most of his time near the surface, so I would recommend some floating plants, floating decorations, or they even make fake leaves on suction cups specifically so bettas have a place to rest near the surface.
Pay attention to your heaters! According to my Amazon purchase history, I purchased this one 2.5 years ago. Not a bad run, I think. Pretty sure it got knocked into the glass a couple times, too.
Edit: Link to Pro Heater by Aqueon
Edit edit: Thank you for everyone's awesome comments and suggestions! You guys schooled me on how to avoid this in the future! After some research, I'm going to contact Aqueon to see if I can get the heater replaced, and purchase this GFCI safety power strip. Will also check out a thermostat controller.
Edit edit edit: Thank you, /u/carlthecarrot, there is a warranty on the heater. I sent Aqueon and email, and all they needed was a receipt and a photo. They are already shipping me a new one.
According to this review, where they used it for saltwater and added a bunch of rocks and sand, only 2.5 gallons. So maybe 3-4 gallons if there are no substrates/decorations involved...
The one with the tunnel is only 1.5 gallons according to the question/answer section on this amazon listing. Ugh.
There is a large version as well, with one more shelft
Sponge filters are good for filtration in these kind of circle tanks. Shrimp really don't need heaters, your house being around 60-70 should be enough to keep them satisfied. https://www.amazon.com/dp/189008719X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6GsTCbQHZ1KB5 is a good book that lists pretty much all common aquarium plants as well as things like difficulty in keeping them and other things like that, if you go to a local fish store they will probably have some plants somewhere in the store you can chose from. Stock looks mostly like small shrimp. Pretty much just Google aquarium shrimp. Your local fish store may have some or you can buy them from somewhere like eBay. If you are looking to start something like this I'd recommend looking into the nitrogen cycle. If you don't look into it there will me chemicals in your water that will kill the shrimp. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I've been keeping shrimp for a while now and fish even longer ��
I’ve had good luck with the cheap go-pro knockoffs on Amazon. I’ve had a few over the years, all about $30-40 max and they work great AND you don’t feel bad if you lose one on vacation. Something like this:
That goldfish will outgrow that 5 gallon pretty quick. It may eventually outgrow a 40 or 50 gallon too. As for the guppies, a 10 gallon would do fine if you're only keeping a half dozen or so. A sponge filter like one I've linked below will be safe for e the babies. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07RFL4JMM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KAX6B98R5RF7AW1C5J8R
Just as a note, however, I used to keep a HUGE school (I know, guppies don't school, not sure what else to call it at the moment) of about 200-300 guppies in a 125 gallon long tank with a Fluval FX5 filter, and they bread like crazy. Heavily planted tank though, and a thick sponge on the intake, so I didn't worry about babies getting sucked up. Guppies are hardy, I'm almost convinced that they can survive nuclear winter.
Pro tip for having people feed your fish while you're away: Get a pill planner box and put each day's worth of food in each compartment. Makes it harder for someone to overfeed.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MEDca-Weekly-Organizer-7-Day-Planner/dp/B06XWH6PMS
They come in all shapes and sizes.
I have 4 aquariums and my neighbor feeds them while I'm away and he loves that I make it easy by putting one of these boxes with all of the food on top of each tank.
Thanks! I didn't want to make people think I was selling a product to them or something... but here's an amazon link to what I bought :)
A pinch is an actual unit of measurement. It equals to 1/8 of a teaspoon.
here's some measuring spoons for Dash, pinch, smidge.
You've got to build it right to keep them out of it. Deep sharp sides with lots of cover. I have a optimistic great blue heron that visits daily. He's not getting much. The Kingfishers get some of the babies.
The of course you can setup one of these. link
Breeder boxes are fine but you still need a larger habitat overall. I use this one, it is great.
Marina Hang-On Breeding Box, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OogjusLKNxMrt
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QWJRBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ^ LED lights I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XHXU7PU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ^ Window frost that I used.
Mount the LED strip under the back of the glass after putting the window frost on. Take a large piece of paper or white cardboard and use that as a reflector between the tank and the wall. Works way better than I thought it would. Hope this helps someone looking for this info- not many good videos on youtube for it!
Its a cyanobacteria, some commercial antibiotics are capable of killing it (Erythromycin is probably the best) but they can wreak havoc on your nitrifying bacteria. I've had good luck with Chemiclean, it's specifically formulated to kill Red Cyanoalgae in marine tanks, and i haven't had issues with nitrate spikes after using it. You can also try doing a few 10% water changes over the course of a couple weeks, making sure to scrub the algae off beforehand every time. During which you should ensure that you arent keeping your lights on too long (or have direct sources of sunlight you need to block off), your circulation pumps are effectively blowing over your hardscape to prevent detritus buildup, and that you're not overfeeding. All of which could contribute to an outbreak of cyanoalgae.
These cheap ones that have really weak lights in them that can't support plants.
I searched for plastic ones on amazon then google. Not seeing a thing.
zoea larvae*. The eggs sit on the female, until they hatch :)
either shut the filter off, or wrap a sock with a tight rubberband around the intake.
You'll need to get some food for them:
Yes, clowns can change color as they age. They can also sometimes darken if they host in corals instead of anenomes.
Additionally, your food is going to impact their color as well. Ones that are high in Krill, Shrimp, Carotene, and Spirulina can increase the red/orange coloring. There are many foods that are specifically designed to make Red colors really Pop!
Test the water again with a liquid kit as strips are super inaccurate.
We had to rehome almost all of our fish ahead of a recent 2,000 mile move (which involved a 3 day drive) but I wanted to at least bring one of my wet pets, dangit.
I did a lot of research and most of the articles I read were basically "Don't do it". Then I found one of these things on Amazon while looking for a cooler: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M8YVPS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Perfect long distance fish mover. First step was to drill a small hole on the top of the lid because otherwise it's completely sealed and pressure will build up. Otherwise- we use a sponge filter for filtration, so it was pretty easy. We stopped feeding ~2 days before then just filled up the cooler with his tank water. Connected the sponge to the airline that's built into the cooler. The cooler takes D batteries. Ran it on low and we only had to swap the batteries out once on a 3 day drive. It was convenient too because once we got here, it was a while before we could set him up in a tank and he was fine in there since it's ~4 gallons. Insulated as well so he was all right even without his heater short term. Would definitely recommend this if you're trying to move a fish long distance. Honestly could have probably brought some of our other guys if we hadn't also been juggling 4 cats and 3 dogs- it was dark, insulated, filtered, and easy to carry because of the handle.
Glad we brought our little dude!
It's a Lominie light from Amazon (LED Aquarium Lighting Asta 20 Nano Dimmable Planted Tank Lights 6500K Gooseneck for Plant Freshwater Aquarium Fish Tank Refugium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H47991/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mu9oCbBFYA5FY). It's a HUGE game changer, my old light was so terrible and killed most of my plants.
Er, do you mean something like this?
I would absolutely 100% avoid that like the plague. It's way too small to effectively put anything in it aside from maybe a few shrimp, but even then, I'd be wary without a filter or heater of some type present.
What's "the cleaning issue"? If you get a 5G tank, filter and heater, you'll need to do water changes once or twice a week, and you can vacuum up the substrate while you do it which handles the cleaning for you. You'd still be pretty restricted on your livestock options - maybe a single betta, or some shrimp and snails - but at least you know you'll be able to establish a cycle that way.
Well, if you mean coral, they're actually an animal under the phylum Cnidaria. It gets weirder when you consider their symbiotic relationship with zooxanthellae (aka dinoflagellates). Dinoflagellate's are neither plant or animal, but they are photosynthetic like plants. Most of my bio professors ~~classified~~ discussed them along with algae because of that.
Growing up I never really questioned whether they were a plant or animal or something else. They were always just corals. It wasn't until I learned about them in detail during college that it really stuck me how odd of an animal they actually are.
Someone once put up a link to Aquarium note. it's an awesome app that you take a pic of the water and the paper and you can measure the color to take the guesswork out of it
I've been researching this and I've come to the conclusion that EVERY SINGLE AVAILABLE HEATER has the problem where it can get stuck "on" and boil your fish. Just look at Amazon reviews. It's rare but it happens with every one.
So for my new tank I'm getting a separate temperature controller. The heater will plug into it, and it has its own temperature probe, and if the heater gets stuck on then the controller will still regulate the temperature. this one seems to be good, I'm sure there are others.
I just ordered an Eheim Jager heater. I've had nothing but good luck with these, but check the reviews again -- someone has had one nuke a tank. So better safe than sorry, spend $30 and get a controller.
Also, get a low-wattage heater if you can get away with it (2-3 watts per gallon.) Whether that works depends on the climate control in your house. Some people recommend two half-wattage heaters so that if one of them freaks out it isn't powerful enough to hurt much.
I actually got them all from amazon! Here’s the links to them.
ZAZALUM Aquarium Artificial Silk Plants, Artificial Plants For Fish Tank, Fish Tank Decor Ornaments, Underwater Grass (Green-8in) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B077C4WVZ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NPp4BbWP0ZJBE
Vibran-Sea So. American Flowering Cluster Aquarium Plant Assortment https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002XT3C9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FRp4Bb4VS4T8Q
I pulled apart the dark green one to plant around the tank more, and also cut plastic flowers off all the other plants. The green plant at the front left also had the purple in the middle back attached to it, but I cut of off and put it there! I also ordered the So. American option for the second plants, but think they sent me the wrong one.
The green hair plant is from my LFS :-)
Nothing wrong with sponges. I have them in all my tanks, even the one with a canister (technically more like a HMF). Was using them as the only method of filtration for awhile until I decided to go hi tech with pressurized CO2.
I’ve also modified a couple of those dual sponges to work with a powerhead. That works better in open top tanks if you are trying to limit evaporation loss or if you want more flow. Once you get past a certain number of tanks, sponges are the most economical and easiest filter media/mechanism to maintain. I’ve used them to run tanks for years. The only reason I got a canister was because I wanted more flow after adding CO2 in a 20 long.
I believe that is actually an Asta but nevertheless I'm curious about it as well. About to start a new 22 long and am debating a Stingray vs x2 of these. I like the look of these clip-ons better but I trust Stingrays and already have one on my other tank.
I hope you cycled the tank first! Read up on everything you need to know about that on the sidebar.
You need a few more neons, they want to be in groups of at least 6. The blue gourami is still young and will outgrow the tank fairly soon. Please look up how large they get and consider upgrading to a larger tank in the not-too-distant future.
Please return or rehome the bala shark. It, too, is a youngling, and these guys get really large (up to 30 cm) and need to be in a group of at least five individuals. Fully grown, it will barely be able to turn around in a tank the size of yours. They are not the easiest fish to keep and require a large (!) tank. Source: https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-a-Bala-Shark
That said, the tank looks good and I think the fish you keep will love the upcoming vallisneria jungle!
It should. A sponge filter is just a common type of filter:
But if you have a different type it should work too.
CREOMG Fish Tank Decorations, Multi Design Optional, Resin Aquarium Ornament, Creative Betta Fish Hide Cave for Aquarium Decorations Home Décor, Robot Dog
thanks so much!! i got it from amazon! here you go!
how long would you wait between introductions then? like a week or two?? this is my first time stocking and i DEFS don’t want them to get sick and die!
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No Planaria works great for Hydra. Fish and Shrimp do fine with it but it will wipe out any snails that you have in the tank.
I will share my anecdotal evidence of cycling two aquariums. The Fritz ammonia and other bottled aquarium ammonia never worked for me! I monitored the cycle for over 30 days with very slow to insignificant results. I tried using a pure, janitorial-grade ammonia like this one and BAM within 2 days the cycle began in earnest.
Again, this is all anecdotal but I would highly recommend using real ammonia instead of "aquarium ammonia", just make sure it does not have any added scents or detergents in it.
My issue is with my shrimp swimming into my gravel vac. They're curious about it and once they make it a certain distance up they're gonna keep going no matter what. I don't vac very often because of that.
On my filter intake I had combined 3 of these together to keep them from getting sucked up:
I had a spare so I drilled out the hole bigger and stuck it over the input for my python water change. It's great because it prevents any fish from being sucked up, but also breaks up the outflow when I reverse the python and put water back in.
I have no idea how you can make one but these artificial aquariums came to mind https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GD87X4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_MT6Xyb7ATRJJ4
There are many similar to these on amazon, I never bought one tho so i can't talk for their quality. Best of luck finding what you need!
Edit: aw man, Since I remembered about the jelly fish one I can't stop looking at it. My birthday is on Friday so I might get one as a birthday present for myself. If you want I will let you know about quality when It arrives, if I end up buying it that is. I know, my self control is on point.
It's a lawn ornament from Skymall. I can't remember what it's supposed to be from, though.
Edit: Nevermind. Amazon link
I do have co2 injection going but for the rotala it is completely unnecessary. It grows like crazy in my low tech, but with co2 I can get enough growth in only 2 days to cut/propagate . I have a cheap($40) LED light from amazon that has been working just fine so far.
I bought this set on Amazon, and have found it very useful. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T7HTH3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've seen individual pieces sold at the LFS for almost the full price of the set.
I would highly suggest either setting up a pond or rehoming him to someone who has a pond. He is a pond fish and needs at least 55-70 gallons for just him, though goldfish are social fish who need lots of mental stimulation, so the most ideal home for him would be a 100+ gallon pond with buddies!
You can make a post about him on Nextdoor.com to see if anyone in your area has a pond he can go to. I rehomed a couple of rescued comets this way (they went from a 20 gallon tank to a 4,000 gallon pond!)
Best of luck!!
That makes all the sense in the world to me. I could totally live in this room: http://www.alibaba.com/member/sg106988483.html/viewimg/picture.html?picture=http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/106532114/Sunken_Garden_Aquarium.jpg
The strips tend to not be particularly well regarded. They're really hard to read and aren't known for being super accurate.
Liquid test kits tend to be better and easier to read. Something like theAPI master test kit is recommended as an easy all in one option that's in pretty much every pet store.
I just bought this one to upgrade the aqueon clip on that came with my shrimp tank. I gotta say the light is pretty awesome! It has bluetooth and let's you set an automatic light schedule. You can have it slowly turn on and off over a set period of time before reaching full brightness, and even do a mid day pause. You can even dial in the light color. Has a ton of options. My only complaint is the app is a little janky and takes an attempt or two to get in sometime. Really though once you have it dialed in you probably won't change it much so it's pretty minor.
Thanks! It's just decorative vinyl that you put over your window for privacy. I'd seen it done with a frosted design and decided to do it with a design I liked. I got it on amazon. Here is the Link.
Unless something is very wrong with your city water it’s already nearly ready. You just need the chlorine and/or chloramine out. Use this.
The real question is have you prepared your tank? The water has to be cycled. That is, it needs a colony of helpful bacteria that process the fish waste so they don’t all just die of ammonia poisoning.
Here is a guide to the cycle.
I was curious too. Google turned up this.
Of course that doesn't take care of the piece of furniture you'll have to build to hold it when it is filled up and weighing over 1500 lbs.
If the need for euthanasia comes up many aquarium owners suggest the use of clove oil. You can do a quick google search for fish euthanasia + clove oil and you should find instructions to humanly put your fish to sleep.
Weird for someone to ask for aquarium herpes, but you can find it on almost any site or store because it's so easy to grow and accidentally gets into everything:
Get a whole house filter or Sediment Filter before an RO System.
Theyre affordable plus it can protect appliances in your home.
This is what I have
I have a 75 on top of a wooden stand that was similarly un-level.
My solution was to drill the bottom of the legs for these:
Heavy Duty Furniture Levelers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081ZT4Q4G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You can easily level the tank that way, even after it has been filled with 500+ pounds of gravel and water.
It is crucial that the bottom of the tank’s frame is in contact with it’s platform evenly, all the way around. Shim the stand’s feet level. DO NOT shim one side of the tank itself.
For those asking about the ATAT https://www.amazon.com/Ulifery-Walking-Aquarium-Ornament-Decorations/dp/B08CKZVTCM/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=aquarium+atat&qid=1612041163&sr=8-3
They make little floating fake fish that would be wonderful for this project and make the parents who will have to care for the fish much happier. Here is an amazon link.
Neither of them are good. Honestly, I'd grab one from Amazon if you have time. Pick up an Aquaclear 30 or 50. They're 10x better than these.
Both these filters are some of the lowest on the market.
6500K (or as close to it as i can) compact fluorescent bulb from amazon or hardware store. Pretty inexpensive. But be sure to get as close to 6500K as you can. I usually buy these and put them in a cliplamp.
I top off mostly. About every other month I will do like an 80% water change.
Well, as I'm sure someone is bound to point out, you would normally cycle a tank for generally 4-8 weeks before adding fish to establish a solid nitrogen cycle of beneficial bacteria. You are in the early stages of that cycle. And since you already have fish in there, you will need to test the water parameters daily. I do mean daily. To make sure the fish have the best hope to survive. Go pick up an API Master Test Kit. So you can do that. And keep the ammonia below say 1 or 2 ppm at the absolute max (although the betta and loach may not survive that high level) Keep at 1ppm if possible. And when the Nitrites show up, keep below .5 ppm. High levels thicken the blood and the fish suffocate. You may need to do more than one partial water change (pwc) per day to accomplish this. Since you hae fish, buy a bottle of beneficial bacteria like Seachem Stability, that you can dose each day to supplement the tank's bacteria while the cycle is establishing.
Also buy a gravel vacuum. The Python has a number of different sizes. What size tank do you have btw? Something like this. Or the narrow one if you have sand. You shove the hard tube into the substrate and siphon up the crud. And there are other versions that attach to sinks for larger tanks. Since you don't have this yet, you will need to use whatever you can to take the water out. A cup or whatever.
And I suggest you read all the material in this sub's WIKI so you can catch up on your research.
PayPal will sometimes hold funds to protect the buyer. Delaying shipping until the hold is up leaves you with no protection from PayPal if there is an issue with your order. Pretty sure it violates the terms of service for the seller to do this. Caveat emptor.
meh, not impressed. It's a 1 gallon tank with macro algae growing on a rock. What's so special about that?
Provided you get into the routine of always doing proper water changes, it really isn't the hardest thing to pull off.
This, on the other hand, deserves recognition:
Actually, there is a kit for 100$ with 4.6 stars on amazon. Its made from a chinese source but this is the cheapest that I found, im looking to save up to buy it instead of my diy co2 system
I've used this one for a similar sized tank: https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-Gallon/dp/B0056XVF82 I prefer this type of sponge filters over ones you can put down because this is less bulky. Another advantage of this one or similar ones is that you can just clean one sponge with your maintenance and switch which one you clean weekly so there is less change of accidentally killing all your good bacteria
Two ways: wait for the hydras to naturally die off or use chemicals.
Hydras need to eat very very small prey to survive. If you're not routinely feeding small live foods (e.g. baby brine shrimp, microworms) they will eventually use up their food sources and die off on their own.
Or, and I get this because I hate hydras too, you can use one of many hydra-killing products out there. I personally have used flubendazole with great results. I use Panacur C, 0.1g of powder per 10 gallons (so basically a pinch). It killed the hydras after 24 hours, but did not harm my ramshorn snails or shrimps. If you have a nerite, though, there are many reports of flubendazole killing nerite snails even after many water changes and months of waiting.
i bet she’d like something like this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00168A6DQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00168A6DQ&linkCode=as2&tag=speech2text-20 maybe try adding a new toy or get her a few and change them every few days.
I bought this kind, but I think most cyanoacrylate adhesives will work, just let it dry/cure outside of the water.
I've had a dumbo fin betta and mine did the same thing every so often after eating. They have big fins that weigh them down.
I'd recommend getting one of these guys so he has the option to chill up near the top of the tank.
The substrate is actually pool filter sand. It is 1/4 the cost of aquarium sand and very clean. It’s is hard to tell from the pick but it is about 4 inches deep. The carpeting plant I got off Amazon at
It had mixed reviews, but i think it’s because the planting instructions are all messed up. If you get it let me know and I will tell you the way I figured it out. The stuff has done really well. I also fertilize with flourish tabs.
50% water changes daily until levels drop. Clean your filter - a gunked up filter can be a nitrate factory. Don't overfeed your fish. Make sure you're not overstocked. Make sure you have adequate filtration for the stock you have. More plants. Floating plants tend to soak up nitrates best. Also, not sure what you fertilize, but root tabs and plant ferts in excess will increase nitrates.
If you don't have any, buy some Seachem Prime from Amazon. The normal dosage is 2ml for your 20 gallon. You can dose 5x the normal dose in emergency, so 10ml (one capful) will bind to the nitrates and detoxify them until you can remove them with a water change or the plants can absorb them.
Pool filter sand on amazon is really expensive. You can get a 50lb bag for 10 units of currency at a pool/spa store.
I think you're doing all that can be done unfortunately.... intakes can be super dangerous. I've lost a few fish to my intake before, and started purchasing the fluval edge sponge to go over thw pipe to protect all of my fish and inverts. You can get them here from Amazon for a good price. I'm sorry about your Molly! I hope he/she pulls through!
I've heard nothing but good things about the Finnex Planted+ 24/7. In fact, I just bought one for myself because of what I read. So far, I've only had it operating for a few days but am satisfied. Notice if you scroll down on that amazon page, there is a table with other finnex lighting options that give specs on general applications, how difficult plants the particular product supports, among other things. I found that particularly useful. I went with the planted+ 24/7 because it could support plants ranging from low-high light requirements. But you can see there are others available depending on your goals.
Hygrophilla Seeds from amazon Luffy 2oz. Pack Aquarium Temple Plant Seeds - Vibrant Green Tropical Hygrophila Plant for Freshwater Fish Tanks - Easy to Grow Carpet Plants for Aquarium - Safe for Shrimp, Goldfish and Guppies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TR3VGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uDWQBbZNQAG3X
The tall plants were just from an unlabeled pack of bulbs from my local fish store. I think they were labeled “betta bulbs” or something to that effect. Sorry! I hope someone on here knows what they are.
Thanks I love it! He’s from Amazon. I treated him with an aquarium safe spray paint before putting him in.
Pacific Giftware Large Rustic Octopus Decorative Statue Collectible Figurine Antique Bronze Silver Finish 10.25 Inch Tall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07627PVRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xjBdFb7645WQS
Might wanna see if any fish stores or /r/AquaSwap in the area will rehome your fish instead of you trying to save them. I'd say your best bet is to rehome the non-betta fish and then keep your betta in the tank alone (like it should in that tank) and keep the water quality pristine with daily water changes and get yourself a freshwater testing kit https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=asc_df_B000255NCI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198072615033&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14506176137279092008&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h...
Okayyy this time no essay lets keep this short and sweet.
Try to donate the fish to any lfs or petco if possible. (If you can't handle all the fish)
If you really want to try look if you have any larger tanks 15+ gallon. Toss your fish in there. If you don't, go buy something like this https://www.walmart.com/ip/J-TERENCE-THOMPSON-2921-Storage-Container-27-Gal-Black-Gray/40905552 most tubs should be fine. a 15 gallon tub is generally around like 12 bucks so pick one up. Rubbermaid is generally a good brand. Don't get the roughneck series bit sketchy. Just find any tub tbh and toss the fish in.
Buy a strong airpump and a manifold something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Fishing-Manifold-Lever-Valve/dp/B005DJREAC if you have multiple tubs up and running. If not use one.
I recommend keeping the goldfish in a seperate tub setup. And dose their water with 2 teaspoon per gallon of aquarium salt. Make sure you dissolve the salt first in a small container of water and then pour that in to the tub.
I have my 20 gallon on a wooden desk on carpet. As long as you put it on something that is stable and can handle the weight, that's fine. And then, what I did to help keep the tank more level, is I got a leveling mat. I put the leveling mat on a piece of vinyl I had, so the mat wouldn't stick to the painted desk. This is the one I got. I did not use the adhesive backing that you can peel off and then stick it to a surface. I just left that on, and then put a piece of vinyl on the desk, then the leveling mat with the backing still on it on top (with the backing side down) and the aquarium on top of the foam side of the mat.
A shrimp feeding tube. I'm not sure if I'll need it, but it seems like an easy and clean way to feed shrimps.
I use this backlight.
It has a lot of fun settings. I didn’t like the adhesive it came with (too many bubbles when applied) and ended up using tape on the corners of this adhesive to stick it to the back. Way better for avoiding bubbles!
Starter bacteria is usually a waste of money. Step 1:) Thoroughly, understand the cycling process. 2:) Get yourself a water testing kit (avoid the strips), something like API Freshwater Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI . Step 3:) I cycled my aquarium by putting small amounts of plain ammonia in it, look at the ingredients to make certain it does NOT have surfactants in it. Step 4:) You're going to have to wait something like 4-8 weeks for it to completely cycle. Step 5:) Add your fish slowly, species by species, so as to not bombard your bacteria cultures. You have to be patient with this. Glo fish generally aren't cheap.
ordering his book off amazon as I type this. Will read once I receive it. Assuming this is what was referred to: https://www.amazon.com/Bettas-Complete-Introduction-Guide-Owning/dp/086622288X
Worst case I transfer them back to the five gallons I now have piled up and hope they don't shred themselves again.
Thank you for the direction on this information.
>Exactly why I bought a digital ph meter from Amazon! LOL
Hopefully you have the calibration and storage fluids that go with it, or its going to start giving bad readings quick.
I spent months figuring this out when I started hydroponics. My pen started giving the same reading for weeks on end, and upon researching I found out about calibration and storage.
The plants starting with the back are Pearlweed. The carpet is Dwarf baby tears
It's a 10G tank. I wish I would have known about rimeless tanks before I got into planted tanks.
Also first I regret not doing a dry start method with my dwarf baby tears (I didn't know about it when I started)
10 gallon tank.
Substrate: Fluval Stratum
Lighting: Finnex Planted + 24/7 (lights are on a timer for 7 hours a day)
Co2: 20lb co2 tank, GLA GRO-1 regulator, co2 tubing and a 30mm Atomic diffuser from GLA. (Co2 is on 30 min before lights, and 30 min before lights turn off)
Ferts: Seachem flourish and excel (I dose whenever I remember, maybe once or twice a week haha)
Drop checker: generic drop checker from Amazon (this one Aquatech CO2 Glass Drop Checker W/ 4DKH FLUID https://www.amazon.com/Aquatech-Glass-Drop-Checker-FLUID/dp/B01AVY7K20)
Filtration: National Geographic CF30 (with a sponge on the intake so the shrimp aren't sucked in) I also have it torqued down in flow, at full power it would blow away the shrimp, or at the very least make me uncomfortable in the flow rate being too high.
Temp: generic 10G heater and a generic thermometer (heater is barley used since my temp is usually between 65°-80°F)
When it does get too hot (for me, over 76°F) I have a Jebo quad aquarium fan which will cool the tank to 69°F if i leave the fan on.
The plants were bought from either my lfs or online. Other than all this, time was the major factor. This tank took me 8 months to get to this point. From complete beginner to planted tanks to this high tech tank and my 36G low tech (https://imgur.com/7qjQ7ag) I feel comfortable in doing a iwagumi next and expand my skills! Lmk if you need any help!!
What other fish are you putting at risk to keep him in the DT?
Edit: ALso the medication you'll need should not be dosed in DT anyway. You could get a cheap heater (i use them in all my QTs - they have them on amazon but they also have them at WalMart for just as cheap)
I used to have the same light on my 5.5gl planted in college. It was a great little light for the price and it looks like they come with timers now which is always nice! amazon link
Most of the PetSmarts and Petcos have them. Otherwise, stalk CL and Facebook Marketplace.
Otherwise, you can pick them up on Amazon, but shipping tanks is pricey unless you can find the free shipping ones.
If you have amazon, order one of the timers like this one. I have one for my tank, and it's great! The lighting stays consistent and is one less thing to think about. I regularly am gone on the weekends without feeding, and my fish are all plenty fed. If you're worried, just feed them a bit more than usual on the last day you're there. I would definitely drop a sheet over the tank to keep the dust out.
The API Test Kit is most commonly used and it's $22 on Amazon. It's definitely worth the investment and lasts a long time.
That is a ring worm feeder without the cone or suction cup. Got it at my LFS. Usually used with the cone to drop live or frozen foods into and let fish eat at their leisure while you control how much. I use it in this case to have a designated feeding zone for the shrimp.
lovely!! If I may add, my betta LOVED the floating log (available on amazon for only a few bucks. (I attached a suction cup to it so it stays in place). He took an immediate liking to it and would sleep in it every night. If you have room for it I'm sure yours will enjoy it too. :)
they have them. check amazon and ebay.
Try something like https://smile.amazon.com/PULACO-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B07SLKDW5J/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=aquarium+water+pump&qid=1600047201&sprefix=aquarium+water&sr=8-
How far is the tank from a faucet?
I have this 2.5g. I'm thinkin of making a slate mountain in the middle to cover the bubble tube and modifying it to make it a sponge filter. Do you think that would work?
Sachem definitely, its $67 on jet and you can apply the 15% off besides the free shipping. AQ's are no doubt good, but as freddyfuego stated, the pros of the tidal are nice
If you're looking for just the tank, Petco's $/gal is probably still the best. If you're looking for a preset combination, then they've had some decent deals on tanks in the past like this:
You need brackish water, not salt. The conditions you're trying to mimic are more of an estuary than an ocean.
You can try it, but keep in mind that amano hatch as a larva and not shrimp. These have their own rearing requirements before they become juvenile and can be brought back to fresh water. I haven't heard of many people having success rearing amano, though my females get laden quite often. RCS might be a better option if you're interested in freshwater invert breeding.
If you don't have a refractometer, don't even try.
You could buy a little breeder box (like that but you can probably find one cheap at your LFS), it'll stay in the tank so the water is all properly filtered but the other fish wont be able to get at the fry.
Imagine you see some really impressive steel sculpture, and want to build one at home. Clearly, it's been welded, so you know you need a welder. You find a used one online for $200, and decide to buy it.
That was the hard part, right?
It turns out that the welder is the easiest and cheapest part of the whole thing. You need a ton of steel. You need cutters and crimpers and melters and solidifiers and labourers to move things, and, most importantly, a team of engineers who know a shit ton more than you do.
Gene splicing is pretty much the same thing. The machine to actually insert a gene is only a tiny part of what you would need to actually pull this off. If you don't realize that, then you're trying to build a skyscraper while learning what a hammer is.