What are
/r/CrazyHand's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/CrazyHand:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/CrazyHand:
Discord
Scratch
Genius
Thesaurus.com
OBS Studio
Twitch
TinyPic
Open Culture
RANDOM.ORG
Taiga.io
Yuzu
Codecademy
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/CrazyHand:
The most popular reviews in /r/CrazyHand:
I've got the perfect solution for you OP. Buy a roll of 3M Vinyl pinstripe tape, 1/8th of an inch thick. Then, tape your stick stems like you would tape your hands for boxing. This roll is 36 yards, and you only need a couple of inches each time you redo it.https://www.amazon.com/3M-06404-Vinyl-Tape/dp/B00HSCMGY6
To do it proper, take a cotton swab and dip it in some alcohol. Then, use it to clean the stems well. Next, use the tape to wrap the stem portion of the stick 1-3 times around in a single band. This will cushion the pressure and prevent the sticks from grinding. You can remove and replace it with no lasting residue. Also, the alcohol cleaning is usually only needed the first time.
You can wrap the right stick with 10-12 wraps if you prefer. It makes it way more flick-able and spamable. Since, the right stick does not need to travel very far for an input, it's perfect. It makes the stick return to neutral much faster, and makes tilts 100% spamable on every member of the cast without missing an input.
Since this is such a detailed question (great job!) on a specific MU, the responses you get here may be few in number. I would love to help but I don't play either character much. Instead, hopefully I can point you in a direction that'll help answer your questions.
The best places to find detailed info on character-specific MUs in my experience are the character discords. Shulk and Palutena both have very active discords and I'm sure many people would be willing to help out, esp. if you linked or copy-pasted your comment.
Here are direct links to both the Shulk and Palutena discords -- the Palutena one should especially be of help.
Shulk's definitely top-tier. And imo, top 5.
He has like 3 losing matchups. 5 if you ask someone who's a little pessimistic. And his worst MU (Pikachu) is like 60-40 against Shulk so it's not like it's a MU which completely invalidates him. And he's got some results since Kome and Nicko are both top 50 players, and Kome took 2nd place in EVO Japan earlier this year.
It's more about whether his playstyle will suit you than anything. I can list off all the benefits of a character but if they don't click with you and you're just trying to force yourself to play them, then they won't seem as good as I say.
I will say though, he's not as hard to pick up as people say. When people say he's hard, they're often referring to a totally optimised Shulk which is near-impossible. The tech is nice but entirely optional. The only one that could be considered essential is Buffered Deactivation, and that tech is actually extremely easy.
There is another app by MetalMusicMan_ on twitter for android https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.main.ultimateframedata&pcampaignid=MKT-Other-global-all-co-prtnr-py-PartBadge-Mar2515-1
Some comments here don't quite get at the heart of this topic (especially looking at your phone to improve your mentality). Your mentality starts with your brain.
If you live off of Mountain Dew and Doritos, you're not doing your brain any favors. You are what you eat.
If you take pride in only getting five hours of sleep every night, you are shooting yourself in the foot. Please look into a book called Why We Sleep; it has fundamentally changed my perspective on just how important sleep is.
Do you often find that your best thinking is in the shower? There is a reason for that (also, please shower before a tournament).
Exercise. You will feel the effects from it sooner than you think.
Drink water and lots of it.
Game-centric suggestions:
- Avoid assigning blame and casting judgement. You are wasting mental energy having your initial reaction to something (insert any possible excuse here) which will be emotional at first rather than logical.
- In the same vein, you should come away with questions (and you should want to do this) on what just happened. Spend your time analyzing rather than blaming. You want to reduce your cognitive load, not add to it by thinking about things that don't ultimately matter and definitely won't help you improve.
>Alternatively, you could draw a triangle, write a program to place character icons randomly in that triangle, pick your favorite fighting game terms for the vertices, and calculate the probability of producing a better chart than the one you've linked.
Granted. Each stock icon uses a random alt but there should be no duplicates. Each stock icon has a 1/100 chance of going to the ??? area.
That's objectively wrong, most adapters other than the Nintendo or Mayflash 4 port have issues with either lag of compatibility. Keep an eye out and you'll see threads in the smash & Nintendo subs that get posted almost weekly trying to figure out what's wrong with their adapter, and 99% of the time it's because they have a different 3rd party adapter. Some add a frame or more of lag, some have weird input malfunctions, some aren't compatible with pc or the proper drivers needed for melee, etc.
/u/buarki12, I highly recommend just getting the Mayflash for $30 off amazon. $30 guarantees it'll work no matter what game you want to play and it'll be the best with least hassle. No idea what you experience with Amazon was one time but this has free returns if you're really worried so nothing to lose, just message them and they'll refund you.
Here's what I did:
Go through every character. From Mario all the way to Mii (jk, stop right before you get to mii)
Test out the mechanics and moves of every fighter. Look up tech for that character
After you've gone through the roster, ask yourself this: Which characters do you feel like you were best with? Which character did you enjoy playing the most? Which character suits your playstyle best?
Pick your top favorite characters (5 is a good number)
Practice with all of these characters, and try to figure out which you like best.
Pick your favorite character, and you now have a main, as well as backup characters.
Mashers generally try to overwhelm you with certain options. When I notice that my neutral is kind of off during the match, I take a step back and just look at how my opponent is getting hits on me. Generally there are a few archetypes of mashers, such as: Buffered aerial short hop spammers, full hop falling aerial spammers, roll and spotdodge spammers, "run in aerial" drift back spammers and so on. You basically have to learn how to deal with each type of spam, recognize it in game and then condition them into your combo starters.
Usually this is just a knowledge gap. You need to know that a rising or peak full hop aerial will always beat a falling full hop aerials and how OoS options and dash back counters buffered short hop aerials. Then start looking at the opponents rhythm and time your punish correctly.
I would highly recommend looking into preorder this controller.
I have the previous version which is fantastic for smash and very durable. This one new version actually has two extra back buttons that are programmable, which is great.
If you have the ability to, get a LAN adapter. They're only like $15 on Amazon. Also, try changing your MTU back to the default (1400). It could be that since online in Smash is done through a peer-to-peer connection, modifying your MTU could be the reason why you are not seeing lag but your opponent is. That being said, I'm not a network engineer.
>There is another app by MetalMusicMan_ on twitter for android
>
>https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.main.ultimateframedata&pcampaignid=MKT-Other-global-all-co-prtnr-py-PartBadge-Mar2515-1
So I have been doing some research. Apparently, Yoshi's jump has some armor on it, so that's why it feels nair prioritizes over other aerials.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6gg19c&s=8#.VFBwN_nF-Sp
I found this gif showing the armor. (its pretty bad quality)
If you want to keep using the pro controller then you can get a different shell for the controller that has the octagonal gate on it. They're fairly cheap and aren't super hard to put on, they even give a video on how to do it. Link for shells Link for video
Seismic Toss to Flare Blitz. If you use Seismic Toss on a heavy like Bowser or Donkey Kong at 0% while facing a platform it will force a platform tech chase which is pretty hard to tech. Buffered Flare Blitz will hit damn near every time. It actually works on around half the cast. Some characters need to be pummeled once first though. Alternatively you can do Whirlpool loops with Squirtle.
I know you specified 40, but you'll be better off saving up the extra 20 and getting an official one here for 60. I've used all sorts of knockoff controllers and while they do technically work, they're usually somewhat uncomfortable.
No such thing as buffering a fastfall, you can only fastfall if your character already has downward velocity. The closest thing I can think of to a "Buffered Fastfall" is Rivals of Aether's Hitfalling system.
It's important to understand that buffering is a risky thing to implement, as it adds a higher likelihood for misinputs. If a fastfall could be buffered, then doing a FH rising dair would be much more awkward for some players since they may hold down even after their aerial has come out, and do not wish to fastfall. There will always be a compromise between easing execution and still allowing precision.
Your muscle memory could just be better for one direction than the other. Not uncommon to be able to pull off combos in one direction and not the other. C-stick is pretty jank as well, it doesn't always do things in the direction you tell it too. Buffered aerials coming out as nair, not working with cargo throw if you're holding left stick in a direction. Because you aren't flicking back to original direction quick enough, it's likely it's buffering back air but changing direction based on your left stick direction. Smash is not a perfect game by all means lol.
I could also be entirely wrong as well so take it with a grain of salt 🤷♂️
As old joe said, banjo's grenade is his most powerful tool in neutral. You should have it out pretty much all the time.
Its also really nice to help with recovering. A lot of characters need to recover low, but banjo has some decent options. You can Up B early, B reverse a grenade and follow it to the ledge, mixing up your landing with one or two double jumps / fast falls. You also have the option of going low to the ledge. Having a few different recovery habits makes it a lot harder to edge guard you.
When using breegul blaster, be sure to move around and jump with it to keep yourself less predictable. You can shield cancel it in the air so its fairly safe in most matchups.
Definitely focus on shielding more. Not only is shield grabbing great for Banjo (At your GSP Down throw -> Buffered Up Smash will very often kill at 110+, go for that over Down Throw F Smash) but rolling around that much is pretty unsafe. You can punish a decent number of blocked aerials with F or D tilt and that will help you rack up damage until you can get a throw confirm.
Avoid using Wonderwing in raw neutral so much. Its easy to punish on block and you only get 5 per stock. I get the most mileage out of it as a surprise option while getting off ledge, or if you can tell someone is going to land on you with an aerial, or they burned their jump, catch their landing with it. If you treat it like a counter and only throw it out when someone is already attacking, you will find so many more kills with it.
Awesome. Tbh, tilts are solid but not amazing. They're mainly used to mix things up. It's the aerials that are amazing (nair is probably his most used move because it's so good). Though tbh, if you're playing Shulk, you're doing it for the monado shenanigans.
If you want a getting started guide though, this one by DistantKingdom
Sorry for the long link but this is substantially cheaper and if you have the patience it's real. You should just ensure that you have it coming from Amazon japan directly at 2000 yen
If you're willing to pay the equivalent of a second pro controller, there's sellers on Etsy that sell replacement Pro controller shells with octo gates (or sometimes other notches) filed out. Alternatively, if you still want to DIY, you can buy the same replacement shell off amazon for $24 and file it yourself. That way you won't risk ruining your existing Pro shell.
>I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
Without seeing you in action, neither do we.
Who do you mainly use? How you do play them? Have you saved any of your replays? Save everything, especially your losses, you can learn more from them than your wins. Upload a vid to youtube, and we can critique your tactics.
There's kind of a rock-paper-scissors game when it comes to Smash: Shield beats attack, attack beats grab, grab beats shield. If you play with out even using your defensive tools (shield, spot-dodge, roll, and counter-specials if your character has one), then you will lose. Period. Conversely, if all you do is turtle behind your shield, it'll either break, or you'll just get grabbed and thrown.
> "If you know the enemy and know yourself, you need not fear the result of a hundred battles. If you know yourself but not the enemy, for every victory gained you will also suffer a defeat. If you know neither the enemy nor yourself, you will succumb in every battle." - Sun Tzu, The Art of War
I have a Frame1 and a DYI, a modded GC and a Pro controller.
You can play with whatever you want as long as you put some work in it.
The learning curve of a Box is a bit steep, but I feel it's more ergonomical for me.
Regardring FGC : inputs wise it's easier for everymove (you'll have to be pressing mod to be really consistant) BUT half circle are harder (while it's really easy with standard controller). Cara cancel are semi impossible with Box atm and drop down ledge jump + shakunetsu is way harder than on GC controller.
Regarding Fox and Firefox's angle : it's kinda weird to aim properly with your upB. You'll have to spend a good amount of time learning basic angle, then diagonals, then modifiers, then modifiers + cstick adjustments.
​
If I wasn't using a Box I would use a Pro controller with notched analogue stick. Or something with macro/button under the controller like (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9BGJVLL) or the pand controller (RIP).
its in the post/video,1 Microfarad (μF) . You dont need a ceramic one, but a ceramic one makes it easier, as you don't have to worry about which side. Also the video shows the guy stripping female jumper wires, that's just to make it easier for you to fit the thing in... you could just solder it directly if you can find a good position. I personally used the jumper wires.
The ones i bought I bought from a local shop. The problem with buying online is they always well them in large bundles: https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Capacitor-Multilayer-Monolithic-Assortment/dp/B085RDTCCV/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=1+microfarad+ceramic+capacitor&qid=1657207089&sprefix=ceramic+1+micro%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-4
Thats enough capacitors for you for a life time. You just need the 1 μF ones.
There's really two options, the short trigger plugs work if you still want the feeling of a click, or o-rings on the stems inside the buttons where it'll bottom out but no click. I use an etsy store for trigger plugs and I bought some o-rings on Amazon but there's an adjustment period to clicking the trigger without any sort of click. I use three rings in my controller but my right trigger isn't 100% (I play claw style with my ring finger on the R) so I'm thinking I might need to sand down the post on the inside slightly, with an index finger it might be better.
TLDR: Fix it yourself or buy a new official controller/
This is a thorough Google Doc of cheap and simple aftermarket adjustments you can make to your pro controller. I've used it myself and I along with others can attest that it's been a big help that's held up under a lot of playtime. I'd recommend at least taking a look at it before dropping money for an entirely new controller.
If you're intent on not trying to save it yourself I suggest sending it in for repairs or getting a new procon/gc controller entirely. I don't deny that they can be pricey either in full or even just repairs, but despite that they're the two biggest controllers in Smash because the risk you run in buying 3rd party controllers is that high. Here's a $27 procon with many stars across many reviews which seems good but they're mostly right after first use by people looking for a quick fix, many reviews after some play talk about not charging anymore, inputs dropping, bad input lag, and drift (which we're trying to avoid to begin with). You're paying for a replacement that will itself need to be replaced except now with no repair services offered, and this is the case for a lot of the third party scene.
"You get what you pay for" very much holds true for Smash controllers, even if your repair request isn't covered under warranty there are many online accounts of people sending their controllers with success, and again you can try to repair it yourself for much cheaper. Call in anecdotal but I've never known much less met anyone with a 3P controller that wasn't older than a month or two or in good condition after that.
You can get the pro controller then add an octagonal shell for the best of both worlds
I ended up picking one of these - a lot of variety in color and seems to be pretty solid in construction! The gates aren’t 100% precise in their directions, but for smash inputs it shouldn’t ever be a problem :)
You can buy shells for the pro controller that have notches, just takes a little work to switch them out.
For short hops press two jump buttons (it’s easiest if a shoulder button is set to jump). Otherwise just jump and press the a button or use the cstick. Buffered aerials can be done by pressing xa and a direction
Trust me, the newer GCC's from Amazon are perfectly fine. I've never had one with stuck triggers, it only affects a minority and is super easily fixable if you happen to get one like that. Plus those brand spanking new controllers are about the same as old used ones... that's a good deal, get it before the price jumps back up (been as high as $65).
Regarding adapters, the most beloved one is the Mayflash 4 port. It's cheap, it's fast, and it works with everything. Other brands like 8bitdo and such might work ok with Ult but have trouble with pc stuff (Slippi, other emulation).
Got mine a while ago on etsy was like $80. But now you can find then more reasonable on Amazon. Like these ones
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MVN4K5M/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_F90A34VMJSYDWG8FFKC7
For switching shells it isn't that hard, but you do have take all the guts out and get them back in the right spot.
Or there's always do it yourself guides if your up for it just takes some filing.
For complete beginners, I'd recommend Codecademy which do amazing courses for 100% free. Even if you don't know anything at all you could be pretty well-versed in HTML and CSS within a couple months if you're willing to put a bit of effort in. I'd also be down to help you out with something like that if you were interested, just hit me up - Knowing how websites work inside and out is a pretty useful (and cool!) skill, and it's a gateway to more logic-based programming languages which is even cooler.
As for the legendary KoCH scripts, they're locked away in a highly-guarded vault, sorry~ 😉
Official Nintendo GCC only. Smash is rough on controllers, go third party and you'll be replacing it in probably less than a year. Dont go cheap and waste money trying to save a few bucks.
Amazon link, they're cheaper right now for brand new than usual. Regarding which adapter to get, the Mayflash 4 port is best, Mayflash 2 port is good as long as it has the firmware update, and the Nintendo adapter is fine too but it's hella expensive.
Character being critiqued:Link
What are you weaknesses: technical skills/balancing specials, standards, and smashes.
What questions do you have that you want to be addressed in the critique: Am I too aggressive? How can I fix that? What should I work on?
Should I discuss how the matchup you are playing ends up working out: Yes
Anything else you need me to know/you want to know: This was my first tournament that I was on stream. But I've been competitive for about 2 months.
If you shield Fox nair, react (or read) what he does after the nair. Keep holding Shield if he jabs, anti air him if he jumps, delay grab or smash spot dodge and so on. It's a safe move, so don't try to punish it directly.
Alternatively, dash back and punish his nair approaches. Buffered short hop fair works if you've spaced right. Dash grab is an option. Shield break if he likes to shield.
Bair is not that safe, study frame data and learn how to punish it at
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HC2F97Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HY2XJGG4TPYB3SSWA6D0
Pick up an official GC controller for $43. It will last you 3 times as long. Pro A controllers have absolute crap durability.
Here's a link to the one on Amazon, it's $42.30 at the time of this post but tends to fluctuate in price a bit. I have two that I modded, one for Melee and one for Ultimate and they're both solid.
It's approved by Nintendo so that PowerA can stick the logo on it, which gives the product legitimacy, but it's manufactured by PowerA, which means it'll probably last you a couple months if you're lucky.
When people say pro controller, they're referring to this: https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Pro-Controller/dp/B01NAWKYZ0 Mine is just beginning to experience its first slight drift issues after hammering three years of competitive Peach into it. Short of that kind of abuse, this can easily last you 5+ years.
Actually I played against CPU's with the same Monitor so that shouldn't be a problem.
LG Electronics 27QN880-B.AEU 68,58 cm (27 Zoll) QHD Ergo Monitor (AMD Radeon FreeSync, HDR 10, hohe Ergonomie, Flicker Safe), Dunkelanthrazit https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0881XWDJP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GV3E5EJFX1S8FDVX0YWM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm just going off what their own website says...
>Prerequisites: A Nintendo Switch vulnerable to the fusée gelée RCM exploit – Visit https://damota.me/ssnc/checker and test your Switch’s serial number
>NOTE: If your Switch is patched, you will be unable to complete the following steps. The 2019 Switch revision (Mariko/Red Box/HAC-001(-01)) and the Switch Lite are both patched and you will not be able to complete the following steps.
Post a replay if you want tips on how to improve.
Text only posts should be specific. If you're just asking for general advice, then you're not going to get any valuable advice that you wouldn't get by looking at other resources.
If you're looking for Terry mains to coach you, then you should try the Terry Discord.
So GitHub is currently the only form I have for issues. BUT I could always deploy a taiga (https::/taiga.io) instance to one of my S3 servers so we have some form of kanban board (trello style). If there’s some support for that I could 100% get that started since I’ve deployed taiga at my local university and jira for my work. Great idea!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NPSR3JQ/ref=twister_B08MLJ4M9Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This works really well and the installation isn't that difficult. Just be careful not to strip the screws when you put it back together
Buffered Deactivation is some super neat and simple Shulk tech that most Shulk mains should at least know how to do. It makes Buster scary as hell since you can kill confirm with it.
Dial Storage is probably the most famous Shulk tech and the most interesting. It's got some neat use in making your movement better, making moves safer on shield and even landing kill confirms that normally aren't possible. It's also difficult to implement well. Good fun to lab out though.
Never anything but Nintendo. Especially if you're worried about longevity/breakdowns. Third party GCC's (Power A, Hori, etc) suffer from the same problems the pro controllers do but worse. Nintendo GCC via adapter is the one, get that or used version of that.
Not to go full Ted mode, but they came up in a time where there weren’t constant distractions. You had no phone to distract you during class, no YouTube to distract you from homework, no social media to distract you from studying. I can tell you first hand if you a) go to class (a critical step many think is somehow optional), b) keep your phone in your bag on airplane mode so you have nothing to do but to pay attnetion, and c) eliminate distractions for a dedicated study time where your only options are to grind or stare at a wall (if you can afford it, pick up one of these bad boys and put your phone, game controllers, computer mouse [unless you need it for something like CAD work] to force yourself to work)
It's fine. When you notice peeps are sdi'ing away, you can use their SDI against them. If you know they're sdi'ing out, you can do: Mashing L-Dtilts>Roundhouse. That forces them to go with the DI and kills them sooner.
Or, you can stagger your norms. x2 L-Utilts>Ranged Light F-Tilt is good if all they're doing is SDI'ing with no input. If they like to jump, you can go: L-Utilt>HeavyJab>CK>BufferedDash>Uair>M.Dp or Buffered Dash>Uair>Fast Fall> Buffered H.Shoryu.
In short: L-Dtilt>H-Dtilt>Hado is fine as long as they dont pull up shield in between the norms. You have to pay attention to that because you will get punished.
There's pretty cheap button pads on amazon. I've never bought them but from what I've heard even the cheap chinese ones like that should be fine, its not like the cheapo amazon stick replacements or z-buttons that dont fit and wear down; it's hard to fuck up a silicon pad.
Surprised nobody mentioned these. A lot of people in my area have these carrying cases
CURMIO Computer Monitor Carrying Case for 24 Inch Monitor, Computer Screen Dust Cover with Rubber Handle and Pockets, Gray (Patented Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJRW38Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M3TXSYQ53JGKWYJE3BWK
Bruh but when i say buffered aerials i meant macro. Buffered short hop aerials, be it X+A or X+C stick.
And yeah the second interaction would bear the same result if it was buffered with regular stick and face buttons and the stick was released before the move came out, but i was just making an example.
One thing to be sure is this game’s buffer system is horrendous
You'll have to look to modifying your GCC to get what you want. GCC uses analog for trigger presses, would need to get it modified so its more like a digital press.
Alternatively you could swap to a pro controller to do what you'd like, or meet in the middle with a GCC-shell on a pro controller (https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Wireless-Controller-Nintendo-Switch-GameCube/dp/B07GXLBCC3)
At the end of the day, do what's most comfortable for your hands and realize that doing a short hop on ANY button is going to take discipline.
Buffered short-hop fair, buffered short-hop fair, up-air -> 25-45ish%
Downthrow -> dash attack -> 25-45ish%
There's better videos on yt for this. A lot of wolf's combo game is catching landings and pushing of aerials. You'll want to look for bread and butters on youtube, especially for risky wolf flash finishers
I use this resource but I would make sure your movement and inputs are crispy clean before focusing super heavily on your comboes too much
Wait, so are you saying this one might have input lag that doesn't exist on the Mayflash?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F36FWMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SSBU has the worst input lag of any game I've ever played, but I thought I'd done all I could to combat it.
If it's this one then yeah, they're legit, should be $50. Only real place to get a brand new GCC. Exactly the same controller as the Ult ones released in the US. I have one of each. They dont manufacture them anymore so get em while you can!
I might be able to help you out, but it's probably better if we/I just show you where to buy the controller you want/need.
What's your budget and where are you located? Amazon has official 1st party GC controllers for like $30-50, and eBay has proper original GC controllers for $15-25 if you know what you're doing. If you're open to a 1st party controller that just has some dog bites on the handles, I might just be able to hook you up (functions perfectly, and is sanded down now).
​
EDIT - this is worth every penny, I have 2:
​
I have the same issue, OP. It started when I was in high school and played Fortnite back when it blew up and every time I got in a huge build fight or 1v1 situation, I would drop sweat down my sides. It was the most uncomfortable thing ever.
Recently I decided to try prescription strength deodorant that basically stops your glands from perspiring that is called certain dri. It’s only $6 and you can find it at most commercial stores like Walmart and Target. Amazon has them as well:
Certain Dri Prescription Strength Clinical Antiperspirant - Doctor Recommended Hyperhidrosis Treatment - 72 Hour Protection from Excessive Sweating - Roll-On - 1.2 Fl Oz - Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JB1MUNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YGFRY114F5JNVQB6WJ35?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Putting this on literally stopped all sweat and even kept my pits nice and dry after intense matches where I would normally get DRENCHED.
You don’t have to but it does help in certain situations. It for sure helps with options out of shield and buffered aerials. Buffered aerials are also made super easy if you pair the c stick with a trigger set to jump. I use the gc controller with L as jump.
It allows you to focus more on movement as your analog stick makes less inputs. The c stick will cover the attack inputs while the analog stick is solely for movement.
What do you mean? Do I own it? Yes (https://www.amazon.com/GameCube-Controller-Super-Ultimate-nintendo-switch/dp/B07DJX3Y47/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=gamecube+controller&qid=1618587017&sprefix=gamecu&sr=8-14) I’ve had this one for about 3+ years now if I had to guess and It’s been great. The inputs are smooth, fast, and consistent. It’s feels solid. I still works well. They’re easy to mod, if you want, for quicker inputs and different button feels. I can 100% recommend getting one of these over an offbrand one. I’ve owned multiple offbrand ones and all of them have broken and/or been horribly made and poor quality. He only use I have for them now is for parts.
Going to take your word on this and try a Nintendo branded Ultimate GC controller - this is the one right?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC2F97Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This PowerA wired controller doesn't need an adaptor and is awesome:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HHG2JN7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Only like $25
I started with a PS4 controller on Yuzu, now I'm on this PowerA controller and I love it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HHG2JN7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(the white and red one with Mario on it)
I have a weird button map that I would think most people don't use:
A = jump
B = jump
Y = attack
X = special
C = tilt
Lt = jump
Lb = attack
Rt = Sheild
Rt = grab
Did this so I can do all of the double inputs without moving my fingers, assume everybody here knows the options.
Still I'm new and wondering if anybody could see a potential issue with this setup (is there any issue that comes from having basically the inverse button layout?
In that case, those are usually mutually exclusive. Buffered is X+A rising, which is naturally unsafe. 'Lagless' is typically landing which is the opposite of quick startup due to the pseudo charge time.
Gamecube Controllers are $40, not $70. Cheapest they've been in years, get em while they're this low. Seriously, it's a good investment, they last practically forever.
General consensus is that most third party GCC are not worth it for competitive smash.
My experience with Cipon is that they look in photo but they feel like garbage. Especially if you already used or tired an OG controller. Bad sticks, funky shoulder and z button, oddly clicky face buttons, etc.
Sadly there isn't really any cheap AND good alternatives but here is a couple recommendations.
- Pro controller ($60) is your best bet if you're an ult player.
- 8bitdo sn30 pro + ($50), Although I've never tried it you could try it, it may be good if you are used to old ps controllers.
- PG GCC (priced unknown, probably ~<$70) Yet to be released so if you are patient is probably best third party GCC but it's not going to be cheap.
- frame1 (heavy $200 or light $120). If you are ok using fightpads it's a good option. Although they are a steep cost they it's a good price to quality for a fightpad. Currently out of stock but will restocked be end of Feb or start of Mar. There are others but I like Boxx or hitbox but frame1 is best IMO.
- Gloom DX mod (~$200), best GCC even better than OG but it's very expensive and only really worth it for extreme melee players.
You don't see it much online, and it's pretty easy but Buffered Deactivation on Shulk is incredibly good and I use it a decent amount to land kill confirms.
A bit more niche is that lately I've been trying to implement more dial hops. It's mainly there so you can open dial quicker during a jump and is a very important part of the Monado Cyclone kill confirm. The most difficult thing is a Short Dial Hop which seems impossible on a GC controller but very easy on Pro Controller (you need to buffer two jump inputs and neutral special).
I also like to play about with Dial Storage in the lab. It has some pretty cool easy kill confirms like up-air -> DS Smash up-tilt. There's a couple other kill confirms but I don't know if using dial storage helps it a lot as these are kill confirms that work at the same % as Buffered Deactivation
If you are ok with playing smash on the switch screen instead of a tv you can buy a switch stand with usb port for like $25-30. (Like hori playstand)
If you play with GC controllers I would highly suggest PG gamecube adapter although it's a steep cost $60. Definitely not needed, especially if you have a gc adapter but once the pandemic thing is over, the PG adapter is way more convenient if you take your switch outside a lot.
Unless you're willing to pay $55 for a new official one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC2F97Q?pf_rd_r=82WEDWGR0Z11K8CT1SV5&pf_rd_p=40eb7df6-3345-4945-93b1-96c5bd9a116d
You can get an official import Gamecube controller on Amazon for $55 right now. It might seem a bit expensive but if you're playing Melee then it'll go the distance better than a third party or used controller will. You may also want to pick up a triwing screwdriver and some trigger plugs to make things a bit easier on your fingers. I personally use a short plug on the right trigger so I can lightshield as necessary and a tall plug on the left trigger because that's what I use to wavedash and L cancel but you should experiment to see what works best for you. If you're going to use the controller for Ultimate too then know that the controller won't read presses with tall plugs so you'll have to use two shorts.
The Mayflash 4 port specifically is your best bet. It's if anything a tiny bit better than the Nintendo adapter, it's cheaper, and the Smash community has been using it since before even Sm4sh so it's kinda the gold standard.
The official Nintendo adapter is perfectly fine, I use one, they're just much more expensive now. Some people use other third party adapters with no problems on Switch, but I wouldn't recommend them. For one, some have poor internals and increase your input lag. Plus lots of people in the Slippi discords and similar have trouble using adapters on their PC that aren't the Mayflash or Nintendo. Those two are the most compatible by far. Maybe you don't plan to use it on your PC now, but it's good to know yours can do it no problem.
If you need a GC controller, basically your options are $55 brand new on Amazon, or risk a used one on eBay. Trust me, you don't want 3rd party GC controllers. I've owned many Nintendo new/used and 3rd party controllers over the years, and even the worst used controllers are on par with new 3rd party controllers (you'll be lucky if they last a year, they feel terrible, have bad sticks, etc.)
Personally I think it's much smarter to save up and get a brand new one for $55; they last decades and you're taking no risk, plus it's maybe $20 more than used. OR don't worry about GC controller if you can get a Pro controller or something similar for cheaper.
I generally hear about how it depends on the quality of your electrical network.
I have some and they work just as well as a normal Ethernet connection in my case. However, you can't cheap out on them. Mine were 70€ for a pair (one with a single Ethernet port, the other with two). If you buy cheap ones, you might end up with worse connection than Wi-Fi, so I was told.
I haven't heard of bogus ethernet adapters causing issues unless we're talking some no-name brand from Alibaba. There's a good chance you bought the same one as me from Amazon which hasn't given me problems: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What I suggest is to try out your other Switch games to test out their connection. Or you can setup a Battle Arena with competitive ruleset to attract someone who probably has a wired connection - or ask a friend/Discord rando to join your arena and test the lag. If it works, then it's the opponent's bad connection, but if it doesn't, it's something to do with yours.
There’s been a shortage since release. Literally no place has the official smash controllers. Pdp, Power A, Hori, and other third party controllers tend to get stock drift and have tons of problems. Just check the amazon reviews. It’s why nobody in the competitive scene uses a third party controller.
If you can walk into your local target and walk out with this controller ill pay you $40 and have you ship it to me.
I have noticed I am misimputting some commands sometimes, but I am still unsure if it’s just me in the heat of the moment or the controller.
Getting an official GCC is a lot easier said than done. Amazon has refurbished controllers but reviews seem very mixed, some saying they are poorly fixed. The Smash one that Nintendo released recently are all $100+.
Don't see anything from Power A stating that it does, and searching the q&a the Amazon page has about 5 answers saying it is not compatible with Wiiu. So I'm gonna say no.
There isnt much combo's when it comes to Ryu. You mostly should be ending any combo with Shakunetsu at low-mid % while Kill Confirming with Heavy/Medium Tatsu or Shoryuken at Higher %.
Your basic ones are: 1) Heavy Jab>Shaku/Tatsu
2)Light Dtilt>Heavy Dtilt>Shaku/Tatsu
Broken Shield at 50-60% set near edge 3) Aerial Lv.2 FA>FADC>Dair
4)Dair>Uair 1>Heavy Shoryuken
5) Light Ranged FTilt>Bair>Shaku
6)Uair>Buffered Dash Nair>Jablock>Shoryu
That's all I can think for now.
Edit: Please Refrain from doing Tatsu in the air cause it puts you in a worse spot.
Combos are available on YouTube.
The basic combos are Nair into DTilt / FtIlt / FSmash. Buster DThrow into Buffered Deactivated Up B is a kill confirm at specific percents. Buster DThrow to UpB is good for racking up dmg.
Aside from that. Smash Art to FAir when ledgetrapping is your trademark "combo" to get your kills. It's not true, but it is busted as hell!
Buffered short hop foward air(pressing attack and jump together) is great and you can just spam it and drag people. Also if you hit back air on stage it will cause them to land on stage and you can get an easy jab lock.
I find this happens a lot with people who want to pick up Shulk.
You look for some guides and before long, you've got videos talking about Monado Cyclone, Optimal Dial Storage setups, Waveflashing and MALLC.
I always tell people who want to learn to avoid tech and focus on fundumentals and how to use arts. The difference between good and bad Shulk players is usually just how good their fundimentals are and how well they understand how each art works.
And if you must learn tech. Start with Buffered Deactivation. It's simple, easy to execute and easy ro to implement.
It's possibly one of Shulk's best arts tbh. There's some fairly easy combos that deal like 40% if you get a nair into a grab, it applies a ton of shield pressure so it can pop a shield if your opponent isn't careful. And there's kill confirms that use a useful bit of tech called "Buffered Deactivation".
Also, if you want some resources, here's the Shulkcord's resource repository. It's got a ton of useful stuff, including matchup-specific stuff like edgeguarding Snake's cipher.
Some thoughts: Falco does do better as a more defensive character, you benefit from a bait and punish playstyle. You seemed to be just throwing out a lot of moves that didn't have a chance of hitting that was giving the fox and easy opening. Also try to get it if the habit of using dash attack, it's literally his worst move. Grounded side b is frame 13 now, has better burst potential, and combos. (Don't just throw it out, it's a good wiff punish) I'd also suggest not throwing out bair so frequently. Buffered from a short hop it won't hit anyone shorter than Cloud, it's better to keep it fresh so it can kill earlier.
I think you'd benefit greatly from learning some more combo trees and setups as well, t there were multiple times that fox got out for free because you didn't react/know your best options. If you haven't checked it out, I'd suggest joining the falco discord. We are very active, and have resources for just about everything.
No problem, ask as many questions as you want, that's what we are here for.
I use c-stick for almost all aerials because you can do retreating and standing in place fair/bair.
Control stick will always make you drift, even if it's slight. (Technically c-stick also makes you drift in ultimate if you don't return it to center fast enough but that's another story).
You can also change your aerial timings for mid height or semi-low/high hits for mix ups. Get used to the c-stick, it's important.
I use X+A + control stick for buffered aerials if I need instant rising aerials. This is necessary for certain combos and follow ups.
In Roy's example if you wanted to get a down throw follow up at low percent into either short hop nair or up air, it's way easier to just mash jump and A together.
Buffered aerials are also great for out of shield, because your move comes out as fast as possible for the counter attack.
I also used buffered aerials for instant RAR back airs, and I roll my thumb across X into A for instant RAR full hop back airs.
Roy (and some other characters) can do a rising fair and then double jump before he touches the ground so you can do buffered fair into double jump fair.
In total he can get 3 fairs out if you do them fast enough but buffering simplifies the process by a lot.
It's similar to Melee Marth's short hop double fair, except in Melee there's no buffering system so you have to input everything manually.
I've definitely overstated the difficulty a bit there. But applying it is definitely not an easy feat. The general consensus I usually see is not to bother with Dial Storage because either the person asking if they should learn it doesn't yet know Buffered Deactivation (far more useful since it can be used to kill confirm out of buster) or just focus on your fundumentals and neutral more.
I think the main use is in the Monado Cyclone combo. I might be wrong but I believe one part of that combo stores frames which makes it possible to switch to Smash and kill off the top.
Optimising tech like this may be more important as the game gets older though.
I agree but also kinda disagree.
People kinda say Shulk is way more complicated than he actually is. You're not doing crazy inputs, his combos are fairly simple and short. And as you've mentioned, tech isn't necessary. MALLC is mostly unused now afaik, Dial Storage is useful but rather niche, and while Buffered Deactivation is amazing, it's not really 100% essential either.
The one thing that makes him a bit difficult really is just the arts (and probably the mediocre startup in some match-ups). But it's quite a big one imo. You need to know what each art does, how that's going to affect your combos, and all of the little quirks with each art. You're also gonna need to be playing pretty well while also doing resource management on your arts otherwise you'll be trying to do stuff that just won't work, or you'll be stuck without an art that you really needed (like getting launched offstage without Jump, or getting combo'ed without a Shield to save you).
Mechanically? Nothing too complicated. But adding a whole extra layer of decision making on top of an already pretty fast game means that he's kinda hard.
Is that the secret? I found last night well watching a video you can do a drag down with Fair on Falco close to the ground I just haven't been able to replicate it consistently, I can when some one is higher in the air but not so close to the ground. I either get the landing hit box, or it just completely does the attack, I assume that this means its also possible with Rising/Buffered Aerial but I've only attempted it with a standard Short Hop Fair.
Would a WiFi extender work as well because I don’t have 100 bucks on me but I do have enough to afford a 20$ WiFi extender.The product also says it can be used as an Ethernet adapter do in the future when I have enough money I could add one.Iwill leave a link here to it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195Y0A42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4MXtFbTW1A784
So... I can't help with you sweating, but I can help you with your hands getting slipping, causing you to fuck up your inputs. My hands sweat when I play smash, and to stop it from messing up my inputs, I bought some rubber grips for my GameCube controller.
https://www.amazon.com/Wicked-Grips-High-Performance-Controller-Grips-Nintendo/dp/B076H1PQGB
These are the ones I bought. Just keep in mind that they wrap around the handles. So you can't open up your GC controller to do any modding or internal repairs once they're on. But they aren't permanent and you can rip them off it needed.
Thanks for the link.
Ive checked it and its made by PDP. While its licensed by nintendo, its still a third party controller because it was made by PDP. In case you want proof, go to google and look up "pdp controllers" and you will see they make a bunch of controllers for different kinds of consoles including xbox one and switch.
The reason these controllers exist is because they are a cheaper alternative. In other words, they arent the same as a first party controller. Heres a link showing a first party one:
On Nintendo's Website:
https://smashbros.nintendo.com/buy/accessories/
On Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/GameCube-Controller-Super-Ultimate-nintendo-switch/dp/B07DJX3Y47
Alot of people get confused thinking nintendo made these controllers due to the labeling. You can tell by looking for the third party label, if you still have the box, check for "pdp" and you will see what I mean.
Its probably licensed because of its artwork.
You can also just look up the official controllers as it will usually always be the same box design.
I'm guessing it doesn't say "Nintendo GameCube" in the center, or have a Smash logo? 90% of authentic controllers have those logos, if yours is blank in the center or has anything else written, it's a third-party controller (there are a few special edition controllers with character logos on them too, see here for pics of all the authentic one's Nintendo has made). There's also no model x52, all GC controllers are model DOL-003 so I'm sorry but it sounds like it's third-party.
There are TONS of those third party controllers on eBay and Amazon, be careful. They're all made from crap components that don't last very long and are plagued by issues. If you buy used from eBay that's fine, I do, but you just need to know what to look for. Besides obviously looking at it's condition (since most are old), don't buy unless it says Nintendo GameCube in the center, or looks like one in the pics above. Don't buy unless you can see the model number on the back (and if there aren't pics, ask the seller for a pic). You can also get a brand new authentic controller $60 until they run out (which they're about to it seems).
You can generally find used ones on Amazon for not too much. I think the Orange Spice colorway is generally the cheapest.
GameCube Controller - Spice Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000E5U6J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TRHSEbCR2W3ZG
Scroll down a bit and there’s a link for “New & Used (17) from $29.97 + $3.99 Shipping” as of this writing.
Yeah its the power A, looks like this. Sorry for shitty amazon link, I have the grey one (it's all they had at wal mart at the time)
It's perfect for casual home use, it works for any game or anything you need the gyro for even. And I can do tech/combos with it no problem, never had an issue with it. I always wanted a GC controller with a left bumper cause I find that a perfect jump button, so easy to just tap and slide your finger off for SH.
Works with the Switch and for some reason even though the Switch's USB 3.0 is technically enabled the 3.0 USB to Ethernet give a better connection.
Try picking up one of these!
They still sell game cube controllers. Hori makes a pro controller that looks like a GC controller. Unfortunately you need a wiimote to use.
https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Battle-Mario-Version-Turbo-u/dp/B00ND0E5ZU
>The lag I experience because of my terrible internet doesn't help either. I wish I could go to tournaments but I don't have any time to go to one and there aren't ones that close to me.
That could be a source of bad habits - lag turns online play into a more defensive and predictive affair than it would be otherwise, and it's harder to punish/avoid punishment.
See if you have a local scene that plays online (for a better connection) or try using Anthers. Also look into getting an Ethernet adapter, such as this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Support-AX88772-UtechSmart-Ethernet-Chromebook/dp/B00F41TWAO