I'm having the 7-14 error and I'm currently running:
I tried using this add in PCI-e USB card and I still get the error https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013FDFGTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_PITSFbHYFF8Y8
I also tried a Sabrent 3.0 USB Hub and the issue continues to persist as well
All of my drivers (chipset and USB) as well as my BIOS are all up to date
Maybe try using a dummy monitor dongle, like https://www.amazon.com/Headless-Display-Emulator-Generation-Single/dp/B07FB8GJ1Z/
I got these grips and they work well. I just put a cable management velcro through the top and around the neck of the controller.
Something like this...
Besteek 50ft - 1/2 Inch & 1/4 Inch Nylon Expandable Braided Cable Sleeving, Braided Wire Sleeve, Cable Sheath Mesh Wire Loom
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5G1RNF
The quarter inch is a better match for the cable but I think you need the half inch to get over the plug. I used that size and started from the headset plug end.
7-14 Error when using USB-C.
Bypassed the error by using the included USB-C to A converter in my PCI-e USB add-in card (StarTech EXUSB3S44V). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No 3d files.
I used this velcro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P3MXLLD
And the thicker vr cover from here since with the thinner one my eyes were touching the lens lol. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTBZBFN
Then all you do is put the velcro with the hooks on 5 parts of the VR headset that don't block the magnets from the previous VR cover. Then all you do is put the VR cover on top of the velcro and it sticks. If you want to see a video of this in action check out MRTV's video
I have Asus Prime x570-PRO.
G2 didn't work at all in ANY usb port on my computer. I even tried a powered usb hub, still no go.
Finally got a PCI-Express USB 3 card and plugged the g2 into that and now it works perfectly.
This one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z34BJYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this should work. Always check different models, some (the cheaper ones) require DisplayPort 1.2/MST on the connected monitors.
Did you take a look at the actual Flight Simulator Development Blog?
"VR support will be available on all Windows Mixed Reality (WMR) headsets upon VR launch. Support for additional platforms/headsets will follow. Stay tuned for future updates."
The AMD motherboard manufactures have skimped on the power out on the USB ports. This is the main issue not the speed. To fix the issue all you have to do is to buy the USB powered hub. I know that it meets the power spec as it fixed my 7-14 error. Other powered USB hubs may not meet the spec.
Not only is it not bad, HP recommends it.
> When the headset isn't in use, disconnect the power adapter from the 6-meter cable.
In fact, I have reason to believe the G2's behavior while idling destroyed my first unit. When I went to use my headset one day, I noticed the cable insertion spot was surprisingly hot despite not having used it for 24 hours. And that day was when I started to get intermittent blackouts and snow that required replacement. I now keep the G2 on a remote-controlled outlet and that, in addition to velcro-cable-tieing the cable with some slack near the insertion point, seems to (knock on wood) have my new G2 in a stable state.
For peace of mind, I'd recommend doing the same.
I got mine working by using my powered usb 3 hub/switch that I already use to switch my peripherals between work and personal computers. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0822LCS97?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Spiral Wrap This stuff works well too.
KIWI design VR Face Cushion for HTC Vive, Foam Pad Eye Mask Replacement 2 Pack 12mm 6mm with a Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XTBZBFN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_bBr0FbP1M3T7M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A constant output battery such as these.
They are the same as the G1 controllers with the exception of the buttons and ergonomics. I use these in my G2 and they are brilliant.
I don't believe the charger will work due to the different voltages. These 2 batteries are generally the most recommended here: 1.6V Ni-Zn & 1.5V Lithium.
You can do what I did and make your own from random household items pretty easily. For example, with these soft baby shoulder pads, velcro straps, and old batteries taped together for counterweight:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VRYHGYG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMD8QVH
Achieves nearly the same effect while being much cheaper. And if the mod doesn't work out for you, you can use the items for their actual intended purpose instead!
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Surface-Type-C-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B07G4FJTGJ
We use these at work and they're the only ones I can get to push full resolution and refresh rate. We also use them with valve indexes....
I just built a new system last month and I have had no issues with it in iRacing and the G2. (5800X, ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra Gaming) However, I always used this StarTech (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1) USB card for all of my VR headsets going back to the original Rift and I have never had an issue with it. It has 4 dedicated 5Gbps channels.
I have a pillar fan swinging over the playspace. For seated gaming I highly recommend that you buy one of these fans you hang around your neck. They are only like $10. Hot days they come in handy at the pool / beach as well. No affiliate link guys, this is the one I bought for vr flight simming. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0897B9CWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_JGQ66Z1EHVKS1WSGKWP3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've got an AMD on an Asus ROG board as well. I ended up popping a PCI express USB card in to get the Reverb working. Less than ideal, admittedly but <$30 and I can always use some extra ports.
It has headers in you can connect your case USB ports to instead of mainboard for convenience.
The adapter in the box won't work, you need one that goes in the other direction like this to use the short cable on a desktop PC. Or you can try to find a laptop with a miniDP port.
Are you running it at really high sound volumes? I have never experienced a blackout with my G2 so far; suspecting that maybe it does not happen at moderate volume levels. For that reason, I skipped the firmware update, to make sure that the bass frequency response would not be nerfed.
To help with the USB issues, I plugged in the Inateck USB card that remained from the Oculus CV1 times into the bottom PCI-E slot. The card is on sale right now, apparently: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 (and there is a newer model, not sure if it is better). Then I went into the BIOS settings (Asus B550 Gaming-E) and switched just the bottom PCI-E slot to PCI-E gen. 3. This allows the GPU etc to stay at gen. 4.
I also have a Q2 with an aftermarket strap, and it is nice in its own way (easily transportable, for example), but G2 gets more use.
I have the same MBO as you and dont have any issues once I connected it with this cheap Anker usb hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L32B9C2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did not change any other setting in bios and I am not even using the latest version that is suppose to have the usb issues fixed.
I have 2 2.0 ports on my mobo, 1 dongle pluged into one, the other is in a hub with my bluetooth dongle, plugged into the second.
I use this hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0KISQE/
I had this same problem with a 3rd party gasket and opted to go with the thicker padding solution. Bought this 3-pack and ended up using the middle size:
Looks pretty effective ! I’m using a similar system without the pulleys, but it could easily be modded to have them. I have found it pretty effective, though still a little noticeable near the limits. Here is what I’m using, but there are lots of options out there. Adding pulleys would be a breeze. VR Cable Management Ceiling... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BWJJ793?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
VR Cover Facial Interface and Foam Replacement Set for HP Reverb G2: Amazon.de: Games
It seems sold out now on amazon.de as well
I have a MSI Tomahawk 450. The hub I bought is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XTKV8V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I saw many reports that stated this one works and it does.
I’ll try to order this one: my build is very similar to yours except my mb is the x570-f
I was using this inateck card I already had, which worked the first time I used it and exploded the second time :P
Currently using a powered usb hub (old trusty anker hub that’s not sold anymore) that works decently, but I still can’t get a lot of games to 100% super sampling and I’m pretty sure it’s lack of USB power causing the issue. I also have to replug in the power every time I want to use it.
Front USB ports always work but I get constant crashing, and the rear USB ports work intermittently and get less crashing than the front port.
If using gasket, 6mm will do. Without 18mm is fine.
This set has all options, so you can play with.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCHYD6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
Just use cable binders with touch fastener. Here's a link to what I mean (sorry it's in German): cable binders
This is the one I saw recommended by people on here and that I bought. The 7+3 port version. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0797NWDCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wj-aGbK91T08Q
Had it for about a week now with no issues. I have a Bluetooth dongle plugged into it along with the headset using the USB adaptor it comes with from HP. Hope this helps.
These exact ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U82D03O/?coliid=I94LSD51UQ48Y&colid=18ROFO8PS2SS7&psc=0
I'm not sure I'd trust 0.5lb ones, but they might work. You could always try one, put a pulley on it and give it a decent yank. The pulleys take up most of the tension, so you may get away with those.
Mine is https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Extended-MacBook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=anker+usb+hub&qid=1610230946&sr=8-3 Yeah, 0 issues, connected to the front Usb-A of a Msi gaming pro carbon X570.
the mod in name the film in the photo this mod stems from some reddit post i saw a while ago, about a guy with Rgb lighting that made his lights red, and it massively improved his tracking (i looked for the post, i’m really sorry but i couldnt find it, or else i would of given credit) and i thought of ways to bring that Red light to the headset and this is what i came up with.
Now let me be clear playing infront of a white lit Christmas tree, with a reflective window, is the worst possible condition for WMR, this was a torture test
I bought an inateck usb3 pcie card, and it works with it just fine.
It was the following one.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00HJ1DULE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! I originally bought this product to try as a face pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KW71LKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_tqi4Fb7FF8YR5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The face pad didn't work but I used the velcro strips it brought to cut them into the right shape. The curvature on the velcro strips is what helped make it fit very well. I just cut some edges to size.
Yes, its heavy and it has 'friction' when it rubs against stuff that makes it worse. I don't have a good room for a pulley system, but I did two things:
Feels much better after these changes.
Thanks, ordered!
Do you have a special one in mind?
The G2 doesn't need a lot of USB power since it has its own AC adapter but most of the PCIE cards will need a separate power plug from the PCs power supply anyway. Some of the cards (like this one) will support PCIE 2.0 but you will usually only get the full transfer rate if there is only one device plugged in. If you are only buying it for the G2 you should be fine.
Aorus Ultra X570 here.
Blue screens, crashes to desktop, error codes, or this thing where the headset slowly rolls me upside down then flips back- all on almost every USB port.
USB-C and USB 3.1 ports make it worse. USB 3.0 in front of the case shows WMR error.
The only port that works most of the time is the regular blue USB 3.0 port on the motherboard near the HDMI port.
Tried This powered USB Adapter in all the ports and it also errors every time.
Those are most likely too thin. You need the 18mm kind. 12 mm is too thin. If anything people should order one that includes the larger size option: https://smile.amazon.com/JARMOR-Replacement-Memory-Leather-Better-Windows/dp/B07BWLTJRV/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=vive+foam+18mm&qid=1606242176&sr=8-2
I've also tried the 24mm option from VR Cover. It's good. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=vr+cover+odyssey&crid=1IHEOQNT3BWN9&sprefix=vr+cover+odyss%2Caps%2C158&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_2_14
I kind of want to try the velour version but I've already spent like 50 bucks on all these foam pads.
I have 3500 mWh ones,bought them 2 months ago,waiting for the G2 since middle of July:
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B0824LQQ7R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am getting recommendations of these amptorrent ones and these tenavolts ones from a friend of mine. Supposedly they run at a full 1.5 volts until they die for maximum power stability.
I included a link in the giant mess of text, but it was this card. I'm not going to go so far as to specifically recommend that particular card; it's a PCIe-x4 slot card, and a pretty generic el-cheapo card, so depending on others' setups it might not be the right buy. There are other PCIe-x1 cards that will work just as well, I'm sure, but they're most likely going to require a separate Molex or SSD power connector in addition to slot power from the motherboard to work so keep that in mind.
Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 (5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMJEW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That’s the one I got. If you search some of the posts on this sub you’ll find other cards that seem to work as well.
Another note, I made the mistake of installing the 3rd party drivers. WMR didn’t like that. I had to uninstall them and just use the windows drivers.
Good luck!
Just popping in to tell you my experience:
Nothing worked, 7-14 errors constantly except onboard USB-C. When it worked through that usb-c port the audio didn't work and Realtek USB 2.0 audio devices (mic/speakers both) kept disconnecting reconnecting. Thought speakers were bad, and then for fun tried this USB 3.0 hub I had laying around. Immediately detected it and speakers started working. Been flawless ever since. I tried a powered PCI-E usb-c card first and had no luck, I'd give this hub a shot. I also tried a sabrent 4 port usb hub and it didn't work, not sure what makes the linked hub so special but oh well.
I got two sets of Lithium Rechargeable. Are these good??
I bought this one a while back to use with my CV1. It worked fine, and is much cheaper. I have an x570 mobo too, so I guess I'll see what happens when my G2 gets here.
Honestly I'm just using something cheap and simple like this:
Honestly I'm surprised it's working pretty well.
>https://www.amazon.com/Club-3D-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B085YBR936/
FYI - The adapter linked does NOT work with the headset as it is display port 1.2. I have 3 x 4k 60hz display port monitors plus the Reverb G2. I tested HDMI 2.1-> Adapter -> Reverb G2 and the screens in the headset won't power on. I switched one of my monitors to use the adapter via HDMI and plugged the headset into displayport on my GPU and having no issues.
Get good constant voltage batteries such as these and remove reflective surfaces and bright direct lights from your room, even something like an open window or a mirror can throw it off. The batteries really make a big difference from my experience with the Odyssey + controllers.
I have these and they work great, I got them a while ago so I'm not sure if there's a better option now
These bad boys should do the trick, I used them for my Rift. Note it's a 1-pack so you'll need to order two.
I'm not sure what size is best for the G2 but 42mm should be pretty safe.
Laptop size pretty directly corresponds to performance. The G1 Reverb stresses our 2080 laptops at work. I'd be looking at a 2070 or 2080 non Max-Q. Which probably means a heavier 17" unit. Sometimes you really have to dig through specs and reviews to figure out if they are Max-Q or Max-P. (Max-P = "Performance" and is basically the step between Max-Q and an actual desktop card.)
These HP Omens (OMEN 17t-cb100) are a great price for the specs:
https://www.amazon.com/GeForce-i7-10750H-Windows-Keyboard-17-cb1080nr/dp/B087Z21FXV
Literally just got these today after a reommendation from another post. Was having trouble with my O+ controllers disconnecting sometimes in certain games. They completely fixed all the issues I was having and plan to keep them for the g2.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1DASO2/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fab_4GcCFbGWY1J19
Look for thunderbolt/usb c to DisplayPort 1.3 or 1.4. Sometimes they call out 8k 60hz, but the adapters aren’t frequency restricted it’s just an example of what they can support.
For example I get full performance out of this dongle: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B07F17ZHJY
Could have sworn someplace it said it does. Otherwise it wouldn't be in my brain as the answer.
ANYWAYS in the case that it does not, i would recommend a 'Gen2' level adapter for its increased speed capabilities. It won't matter if you plug it into a Gen1 port but i still prefer to buy my adapters the fastest possible. Andhere is one that should work
i added two usb 3.0 ports and a usb c port to my mac pro 5,1 with this card:
StarTech.com USB 3.1 PCIE Card - 5 Port - 1x USB-C - 2x USB-A - 1x 2 Port IDC - Internal USB Header Expansion - USB C PCIe Card (PEXUSB312EIC) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01I39D15A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0FmfFbVBN4REE
These are the batteries I plan on getting and they will actually be in a 4 pack which look like https://imgur.com/kiHgYXk but I couldn't find them on the American Amazon (i'm not from America). Big Clive recommend them and in my country literally the only ones I could find are those 1.5V and the 1.6V NiZn ones but the 1.6V ones won't be delivered to my place until ~December so the 1.5V is literally my only option..
I Like the Duracell rechargeable ones the best. All rechargeable AA Batteries will lose charge just by sitting around. The Duracell ones seem to do the best at minimizing this over the Amazon Basics and the Energizer rechargeable AA
These come in a pack of four. Each pack comes with a charger. I bought two so I can charge a set whilst using the others. They’ve been really good.
you can change to your local Amazon instead of using German one to get cheaper delivery (and maybe even base price)
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Battery-Rechargeable-Batteries-Charging-Charge/dp/B081DRJZ6F/
I was getting regular crashes on a few games and updating my drivers at the motherboard level stopped them. Windows update and sound card apps do not catch this. The base Realtek driver most of us use since we stopped buying dedicated soundcards.
It was never the headset.
A Kernel error is lower level than any program. The Kernal is what the Operating System calls itself. You say you totally reinstalled Windows? Like a total drive wipe and format? otherwise you probably have Malware or some fundamental error.
iRacing is a very light app and runs on potato laptops. My G2 laughs at it.
Take a phone pic of the blue screen to get the stop code as referenced elsewhere in this thread.
NOTE: Win 11 is crap. Stay with Win 10.
One thing it might be is the USB bandwidth and power your motherboard is sending to the headset. Make sure the USB port you are using is true 3.0 or above and the video card Display port is connected correctly. The WMR app may not tell you if your USB port is not sufficient.
I have an aging Asus Hero board and I got a PCI USB 3.0 card: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCQ64RN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and npw I know my USB bnandwidth is up to snuff.
If you reformat again, Not recover, not repair, GO slow and make sure your motherboard BIOS and drivers are updated. I do not think you need to do that though.
what about this one
Lens wipes should be a must for all VR users. Safe, no contaminants, or abrasives.
I use these ZEISS Pre-Moistened Lens Cleaning Wipes
I use three Kiwi Pulleys which work well. Using a triangular setup.
I’ve been using these for a few months now. I bought 2 x 4 packs (each pack of 4 comes with a charger), so I can charge 4 whilst using the other 4. They’ve been great.
All disposable batteries are 1.5v. If you want to stick with rechargeable you have to get lithium rechargeables like this
Deleepow Rechargeable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QV8GYV3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Like would this work since it has a DP and USB-C, and supports up to 8K? https://www.amazon.com/Display-Multiport-Portable-DisplayPort-Charging/dp/B09CQ6GPB3/ref=sr\_1\_4?keywords=USB%2BC%2BHub%2Bwith%2Bdisplayport%2Band%2Busb-c%2Bport&qid=1668911381&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1
Would something like this work then since it has a DP and USB-C port? https://www.amazon.com/Display-Multiport-Portable-DisplayPort-Charging/dp/B09CQ6GPB3/ref=sr\_1\_4?keywords=USB%2BC%2BHub%2Bwith%2Bdisplayport%2Band%2Busb-c%2Bport&qid=1668911381&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1
Your laptop must support DisplayPort 1.3 or better over that USB-C connection. Then you'd connect the Reverb G2's USB-C and DisplayPort connectors to a hub like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Adapter-Delivery-Ethernet/dp/B08NDGD2V5/
That's what I bought to connect my 2020 ASUS TUF Gaming A15 laptop's on-board NVIDIA GeForce 2060 RTX to my Reverb G2. It works well, although sometimes I must disconnect and reconnect everything (including the headset's power connector) to get the audio to work properly.
So I should be able to do what I mentioned above? If I bought this adaptor would it work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=youtube-tyrie-20&linkId=0c262f8024ced1409a1295db56870821&language=en\_US
At this point I don't care about any loss in quality I just want to get the thing running. Could I use the mini-displayport to USB adaptor and then buy a displayport to minidispalyport adaptor off Amazon like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=youtube-tyrie-20&linkId=0c262f8024ced1409a1295db56870821&language=en\_US
You can't use a HDMI>DP adapter, it REQUIRES displayport connection.
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QV2FSKT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
​
Here's the cheapest option for you. I bought this for your exact reason.
FYI there are several vendors of batteries that maintain a near constant 1.5V, I went with Hixon lithiums after seeing a recommendation on this forum and they have been solid for me. I moved them over with me to my V2 when I got it (even though the V2 does not suffer from this low power issue, I just liked the longer battery life).
I got the set of eight AA EBL rechargeable li-ion batteries. They are fantastic and last much longer than any AA's I've used.
Only issue with this type of batter is hard to tell when they are getting low enough to recharge as they keep their voltage at 1.5V for almost the duration of the charge, then quickly drain when they are about dead. You really do not get much of warning but I have no issue with it since with 8, there is always a freshly charged set waiting in the charger that I can quickly swap.
Perfectly. I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCQ64RN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Indeed Motherboards commonly do not have powered ports, but for the G2, with it's own power we are only concerned about bandwidth.
If HP won't warranty it, get some of this to fix it. It's a moldable, flexible, epoxy putty. You can mold it around the band for a temporary fix.
Microsoft supports lots of things that don't bring in direct revenue. The Linux Subsystem for Windows allows you to run Linux "on top" of the Windows kernel. They don't sell this separately, it is built into all versions of windows for free. The reason it is there is to convert developers who do Linux development on macOS to instead do their development on Windows laptops.
In the same vein, the reason for WMR is because some people at Microsoft agree with Facebook that AR/VR is the next computing platform and so they wanted to get started working on it. They tried to target the enterprise areas that were most likely to work with it like architects and designers (i.e. people who work with 3D models). The gaming part is kind of just tacked on.
I don't expect WMR to go away. I think there is a niche group of people who work in CAD who use it and as such there will be a headset or two that work with WMR to support them. But for now I think it is feature stable and I don't expect to see much work done to it until the next generation of hardware shows up. A parallel example would be this: Eizo ColorEdge CG319X 31.1" Wide Screen Hardware Calibration IPS LED 4K Monitor, 4096x2160 for $5000. I don't know who needs a super color calibrated video editing monitor but Windows supports it and probably supports all of its features.
These fit the G2 although it says made for Q2.
https://www.amazon.com/AMVR-Controller-Oculus-Anti-Throw-Protective/dp/B07X117LPR/
These work fine although they are for the Quest 2. Makes the controllers feel better and takes away that cheap plastic feeling.
Just stick them in and your done. If you are playing Beat Saber you need velcro extensions to loop around the halo. I play Contractors every day and throwing nades hard my controller has yet to come flying out.
https://www.amazon.com/AMVR-Controller-Anti-Throw-Protective-Accessories/dp/B08L7HHPYC/
No it is the "VeeR Retractable Cable Management," strange though (and bad sign) it isn't even on Amazon anymore.
Stranger still, the link from my "Orders" amazon page take me here!? (I did not buy that cable).
When I was getting my G2, these were one of the recommended types:
Mine are still working great. I don't know how many cycles i've done, but i did my purchase in october 2020.
While I haven't had to test it since I use my batteries in pairs, one of the neat things to me is the fact that charging slots are independent. In most NiMH and similar batteries, they have to be charged in pairs on the charger (unless modern ones have been changed? not a technology i keep up with a lot) whereas with these you can do whatever you like.
I got these from Amazon. They work quite well, although it makes it trickier to change the batteries.
I heard this as well that the cable needs max power. I just bought a USB-C PCIE card to deliver more power to the USB-C cable on the G2. This is powered by internal SATA so it really delivers the power the G2 needs. I will post here if it revives my old "broke" cable.
With the new cable you need a signal booster for it to work. Get these two products, plug the headset into the repeater then the repeater into the extension then into a display port. It should work then. Apparently the signal coming off the headset is too weak for the cable or something.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D949F59?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0925LR6KR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Because they suck and dont take away from the cheap plastic feeling if you are referring to the AMVR G2 grip with the special cover.
Also a design flaw with the pleather strap on these that are well documented in the Amazon reviews, Reddit and VR sites. The angle is awkward when holding these grips like a gun.
Dont buy these grips:
https://www.amazon.com/AMVR-Controller-Anti-Throw-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B09JJLRCVS/
If you know other grips that fit please share with me. I posted this because most Reverb G2 owners complain about the cheap controllers and non Reverb G2 owners say its why they passed on buying it and sick of hearing it when my posted solution will make the controller feel like a Touch Controller in VR.
https://www.amazon.com/AMVR-Controller-Anti-Throw-Protective-Accessories/dp/B08L7HHPYC/
Yes it makes the vibration feel better as well.
I’m running the Reverb G2 with a 3090ti and 10900k. In order to get the V2 cable to work you’ll need to use a display port adapter or switch. I’ll post a link below for what I’m using and it works great! Another thing that works is using the headsets V1 cable if you have one. Hell of a deal if you get it for a grand! I play DCS and I’m loving the performance I’m getting with this combo.
Angusplay DisplayPort Switch 8K... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089SLDDZZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
As a follow up to this original issue. I was able to get my G2 to work, using a HDMI to Thunderbold/USB-C adapter. If there's a downgrade in quality, I can't tell: https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1