What are
/r/battletech's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/battletech:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/battletech:
Mech Warrior Online
Cults.
Inkscape
Buzzsprout
Flutter
Abandonia
Azgaar's Fantasy Map Generator
Quire
Autodesk Tinkercad
Mecabricks.com
LibreOffice
Pepakura Designer
DOSBox
Magic: The Gathering
Yahoo! Finance
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/battletech:
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/battletech:
The most popular reviews in /r/battletech:
Some scenic clump foliage instead of grass tufts would help sell the large scale of the mech. If you are lucky you can find a scenic kit on discount at a Michaels or similar store with a near lifetime supply of the stuff.
Not only that, but a major component of getting the 'Mech to do those things is, guess what, the Diagnostic Interprative Computer and Neurohelmet.
It does much more than just read your inner-ear for balance.
It reads your brain and intent. Your intent when stepping towards a tree determines if the 'Mech decides to step around the tree or straight over it.
This is why SLDF and Clan Neurohelmets are so fucking valuable, and why Enhanced Imaging and (Buffered) Vehicle Direct Neural Interface is so effective.
SLDF and Clan Neurohelmets are not just more comfortable than regular ones, they are also much more capable, able to read your mind with vastly increased accuracy, while EI and (B)VDNI increasingly erases the line between MechWarrior and BattleMech when active.
We don't have neurohelmets and DI computers, so... You literally can't control a 'Mech the way a MechWarrior does.
Yet.
I think you might be looking in the wrong places...
No he meant the sculpt doesn't represent the marauder well. A lot of people don't like the Project Phoenix stuff.
Here's a chart for reference: https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/41987-unseenreseen-aye-or-nay/
By the way your paint job is great!
https://bg.battletech.com/forums/index.php?topic=5751.0
https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/168452-size-of-battlemechsmeters-or-bananas/
BattleTech's scale has always been kind of fucky, unfortunately. There are some official heights in there, and from there, people often compare silhouettes and guess, for other 'mech heights. Bearing in mind scales change from game to game, the miniatures aren't to scale, and the books often contradict each other....
Army Painter Gang checking in, 100% recommend their Dark Tone!
If you slop a little out of the armor seams just tidy it up with a little green and you’ll be A-OK.
Also, those Mechs look great! You’ve done so well shading stuff without washes, the old fashioned hard way, that this stuff will definitely take you to the next level.
The army painter washes dry very evenly but sometimes a tad shiny, so you’ll need a matte varnish to knock it back to flat. Good luck!
For Number 19 we broke out the chalkboard and answered some questions on how to keep the greenhorns alive for another drop. We talk about winning and losing initiative, focusing fire vs dividing and conquering, maneuvering for the rear arc shots, breaking out of a conga line, and psychological warfare. You can listen here
If you're not familiar enough with BattleTech/MechWarrior to bitch about the flaws of the game design, try MechWarrior: Online.
http://store.steampowered.com/app/342200/ / https://mwomercs.com/
If you're looking for console specifically, you may have a harder time, as MechWarrior isn't really very manageable with a controller. Maybe MechAssault on XBox?
With respect to MechWarrior though, personally, I feel that MechWarrior 2 is great from a nostalgic standpoint, but doesn't really hold up today. MechWarrior 3 is dated, but still excellent, as is 4. (Doubly so with all the expansion packs.)
As a big fan of the Marauders, I've always hated the Reseen designs. None of them look good.
Best reseen is honestly MWOMercs's version, which is likely to show up in HBS' BattleTech as well.
Honestly, when it comes to Marauder miniatures, the original unseens of the MAD-3R and Marauder IIC are worth every cent of their typically $80 price points, to me.
This is a storage rack salons use to display/sell bottles of fingernail polish. It woks great for my 'Mechs. These are just some guys from "Clan Invasion."
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G8DJM6L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! That seems to make sense, although I also just found this forum post which does not mention resolution day, but says that the discussion that resulted in the creation of the Wolf's Dragoons happened on November 11. I wish both of these sources had proper references to ground their claims.
Thank you both! For the razor wire, I use this Army Painter brand wire, though any silvery wire of light guage can do in a pinch. I tightly wrapped it around a bamboo skewer to get the scale of the coil right.
And yeah, after over a year of trying several different techniques I think I've finally found my groove on painting white Mechs right.
> Maybe it's either an example of Ivory Tower game design.
Interestingly, he demonstrates in that posting that he missed out on the point of the things they lifted from Magic.
> Timmy cards
This is slightly mischaracterized; Timmy cards are cards that make you go "wow! that's cool!" It is not related to power level, as there have been many tournament calibur Timmy cards (Akroma comes to mind). He seems to have conflated that with bad cards, which is something that definitely exists as a deliberate design decision in Magic (Chimney Imp comes to mind). MaRo wrote a good article on it. But here's the thing; Magic is a competitive game, D&D is not. Since your DM is providing all the challenge, if you have made what turns out to be sub optimal choices the DM can ramp down the overall difficulty of the campaign accordingly. In Magic, if you bring a jank deck to a tournament you would expect someone good to take advantage of your weaknesses and wipe the floor with you.
As compared to Battletech, Magic has a huge amount of interconnectedness, and that is a good part of what makes cards good or bad. Ernham Djinn was a powerhouse in the early days of Magic, as he was a cheap (relatively) large creature with a manageable downside. When he was reprinted in Judgement he wasn't given a second glance, because overall creatures had gotten much better. By contrast, Battletech has a lot less of that. There is a difference in relative effectiveness depending on what year you're playing in, but the total equipment table for all of Battletech is less than the size of a single Magic set. So there isn't really the need to have a level of discovery that Magic has, and the more abstract natures means I care less about whether I'm using an AC/10, a Gauss Rifle, or a PPC.
I highly recommend starting with a Reaper Learn to Paint Kit: https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-Miniatures-08906-Learn-Paint/dp/B00NTMC49G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1A97SK0HV75PX&dchild=1&keywords=reaper+learn+to+paint&qid=1622556431&sprefix=reaper+lear%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2
It has some good instructions to help you start, a couple miniatures to practice on, and a good start to a paint set (The big thing missing is red). The paint alone is worth around $30, so it is a pretty good deal.
There is a site called Brick Commander where there are quite a few different Lego Mechs. There is instructions on how to build the Mechs but it does require a program called MLCad. Tho the site hasn't been updated in a long time.
Reposting this statement so it's not buried in the comments:
https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/266758-harmony-gold-lawsuit/page__pid__6119238#entry6119238
Sounds like PGI is clear to keep using the Mechs they currently have, at the very least.
Gotta pay homage to the classics! The Dragonfly and Uller always [strangely] appealed to me because the cockpits look like armored bath tubs and that reminds me of the A-10 Warthog.
Regarding shaking hands you might try: painting with your elbows/wrists anchored on the desk, a muscle relaxant of choice, breathing deeply (don't hold your breath), taking frequent breaks, or beefing up your hand strength over time with one of those tension grips from Wal-Mart.
A lot of people also report that the weighty base-holders like these can help steady their work. (Keeps the model clean as well.)
30 seconds of googling standees did more than 30 minutes of searching before that.
These come with different colored stands, so it’s to tell the teams apart. card stock standees on Amazon
You're being downvoted because the one on the left is a 3d print of the Marauder model from Mechwarrior Online. It's not "out of print" because it was never in print, just people running the game files through a 3d printer.
I followed this guide but the 3d model had a bunch of gaps and 0 thickness parts that would make it impossible to print. So i had to put the resulting model in Meshmixer and made it solid. There are game files for every mech and even the maps, ornaments, etc. from the game.
I read about it on the MWO Boards and the BT Game boards (original not PDox).
https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/255291-harmony-gold-v-weisman-pgi/page__st__1580
I think it happened in December of 2017. The judge got really peeved at the HG lawyers and threatened them with Rule 11 sanctions because the lawyers did nothing except file motion after motion that did nothing except to create a typhoon of paper.
Well, aside from some convincing paint jobs the IPs don't have a lot in common.
Transformers are sentient alien machines that transform from autonomous robot to cars/planes/etc.
Battletech involves large, bipedal mecha that is controled by a human riding within.
http://www.myabandonware.com/game/battletech-the-crescent-hawk-s-inception-ev/play-ev
I play Crescent Hawk's Inception still. That website has a lot of old Dos games you can play online for free because they're abandonware.
In addition to the other good suggestions, there are a few published campaigns, plus the Jihad Hotspot books all had Chaos Campaign tracks in them to follow along with the action.
If you want a story seed, Solaris VII was invaded by the Blakist and had an active antiBlakist insurgency that was made up of former gladiators, with a lot of infighting between rival resistance groups loyal to different houses. There’s a lot of potential there for fun action, and all your players really need to know is “You’re a freedom fighting gladiator, go beat up the mystical technofascists.”
If you need to make a map for a planet that doesn’t already have one, I suggest https://azgaar.github.io/Fantasy-Map-Generator.
Thanks for chiming in, but Just so you're not holding your breath, combined arms are presently out of scope and BV is low on the priority list. More information on specific project goals is available here: https://quire.io/w/Flechs-sheets/25/Facilitate_in-person_BattleTech_gameplay_focuse... Though I'm also happy to elaborate on these items or project priorities more generally.
There appears to be one available on amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Catalyst-Game-Labs-CAT35030-Multicoloured/dp/B086RVSZP6 that will ship to Ireland
I've actually done this exact thing with my AGoAC minis! A magnet in the torso for twists and one in each arm so that they can be shot off (or swapped around for fun). It's more than a bit fiddly to get nice, clean slices on them, especially the more action-posed or even just thick ones, but I'm mostly happy with the result (there's definitely a learning curve to it).
The most important thing is making sure you're always aware of which polarity needs to face "out" before gluing. I'd recommend buying little pushpin magnets, like these, to help you keep track. Use two of different colors but that stick together. Only use one color for "torso" inserts and the other color only for "limb" inserts. After you drill your hole in the mini for the magnet, use the appropriate pushpin to hold the magnet while you insert it. Consistent use will ensure compatible polarity while building your mini as well as between minis.
I made an Imgur post forever ago on my forays into what you're describing, if it'll help: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/H1Vkjl2
It won't Ruin the models, and I have used and do use craft and artist acrylic paints occasionally for specific purposes. You will need to be sure to thin it down a lot, though, and even then be aware that the formulation is different from model paint and it won't spread as easily in the same way.
Also, any set of "Beginner Paints" you see at the $100+ price point is WAY beyond your needs. A 30-40$ set like this one will more than suffice as you start out.
If you need a bunch of bases for cheap, I usually buy these: https://www.amazon.com/Proxie-Models-Hex-Figure-Bases/dp/B00ISV580K/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=1.25+inch+hex+base&qid=1608157290&sr=8-3
Seem to be the cheapest option at the right size.
Not OP, but when I've done similar things I've used a saw blade that fits into the hobby knife vise. Like this
Then you just need a model drill, like this , and to drill/carve out a hole big enough to fit the magnet, and deep enough so that the magnet rests flush with the model. Add a dot of your favorite super glue, and you're good to go.
Generally for the top/most external piece I will attach the second magnet to the first, and test fit as I drill/carve out so you can see how it looks. Then you just glue and go from there. That prevents you from messing up polarity, which is a risk if you do it separately, and allows you to see how it will look once its attached.
OP used some chonkin magnets. Nothing wrong with that, those mechs will be super stable. It takes lots of extra carving out to get a hole big enough for them though. Just keep in mind the possible weight the little magnet will hold when choosing magnet size.
Good job! Definitely time for some more, finer brushes though! Check out the Army Painter line, they have pretty good brushes for a good price. As you progress with a steady hand and more detail, I can't recommend this highly enough. You'll look silly, but it's super worth it.
Someone PM'ed me about wanting rips of the Cyberstorm discs. If anyone else wants them, you can grab them here:
They put out the Warfare Kit back in 2012, which is exactly what you're looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/Battletech-Warfare-Kit-Game-Cards/dp/1936876329
I don't know how easy it would be to find a copy any longer though (obviously the Amazon price is bonkers, but it's been out of print for a decade so supply might be scarce).
A while ago I got this...
A number of the tools aren't all that useful. But the tweezers are great and the black "files" are like sandpaper so they're really nice for smoothing plastic down. The side cutters are also super nice for cutting stuff off sprues.
Best part is it's like 13 bucks. I've gotten way more than that out of the kit so far.
Sure thing! The tree and the stump are from the same thing, I just cut the top off of one of these and used some moss specialty paint and a dark wash to make the stump in particular look less plastic-ey.
I do the same. What I do is cut up some very, very thin MFD flock it and then glue some miniature trees to it.
Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Suptee-Pieces-Model-Trees-1-57/dp/B07DH5K68B/ref=sr_1_100_sspa?keywords=miniature+model+trees&qid=1661619855&sr=8-100-spons&psc=1
You could cut the MFD to have hex sides if you wanted, but I don't play on a hex map, so I didn't bother.
The scale isn't always exact but they're not too bad, and they're mostly there to make the table more interesting, and provide cover.
Your post has been filtered for using a link shortener (that also includes a referral link, which also isn't allowed), switch to this link and I'll approve it
PAINT SET: Merc: Wolf's Dragoons - Zeta
Base Coat:
SUBSET NOTES: Basecoat for details as needed. Wash over primer.
Details : Ivory - Vallejo - 70.918 Gun Metal - Army Painter - WP1131
Drybrush : Ash Grey - Army Painter - WP1117
Primer: Brush-on Primer - Army Painter - WP1472
Wash: Dark Grey - Vallejo - 76.517
SUBSET NOTES: Wash directly over primer
Powered by paintRack v1.47.0.35 for Android by Courageous Octopus! Get it now on Google Play at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.courageousoctopus.paintrack
I use this stuff. Have not done stripes on mechs yet, some 40k minis so the scale might be a bit tricky, but my perfectionist to steady hand ratio is no bueno. Masking helps a ton
This is a pretty cheap set of 5 colors and is enough to cover two lances of mechs. The 12mm size will be less obtrusive on the table as well
I don't have a link, sorry. I'd recommend bringing a bigger miniature to the grocery store and checking the food storage section there, to get an idea of what size you need. If those don't work, check for plastic storage bins that should be in a lot of stores soon with school starting up.
If you need to get some online, something like these might work: https://www.amazon.com/Citylife-Storage-Container-Stackable-Organizing/dp/B08SQNFR3Q
As someone who just started playing, A Game of Armoured Combat is a great product to start with. It has enough mechs to play lance vs lance, rulebook, play aids, bit of lore, maps. It's tough to learn a whole new system, make it easy on yourself and get the product that's specifically designed for new players rather than buying or printing a bunch of separate products just to get a game going.
Download the record sheets for your 8 mechs here: https://bg.battletech.com/downloads/.
I would also recommend buying a bunch of coloured dice to mark movement and target modifiers. This is what I bought and it meets all my needs: https://www.amazon.com/Blulu-6-Sided-Colored-Pouches-Multicolored/dp/B07Q1H7V7J/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3HLZQ8DTGFDXQ&keywords=dice+set+blue+red+white+black+green&qid=1656943566&sprefix=dice+set+blue+red+white+black+green%2Caps%2C91&sr....
Since nobody else has brought it up yet, grab yourself the Beginner's Box for a quick and simplified start with your SO! It's designed for two players who both know pretty much nothing going in.
Since you mentioned you have a 3D printer, the mobile assets database is a great place to look for various models for printing, whether you're trying to find versions of a specific mech or just seeing what's out there and cool looking. Hope you and yours have fun!
It sounds like you're looking for the TROs. They're meaty books with individual mech stats, specific gear (who made that Medium Laser?), lore, and awesome line-art drawings of various models. The TROs come by timeline and contain the main mechs of that era.
I'd start with the Succession Wars one (~3025 era).
https://www.amazon.com/BattleTech-Technical-Readout-Succession-Catalyst/dp/1941582338
If all you want is record sheets, those are free as PDFs. The TROs do not contain record sheets.
This is the one I got, though it was only 5 bucks at the time, you don't need to punch a hole in it to put your cards in.
I don't know who makes them, and I actually got them for free from a friend who got a huge pack for next to nothing...
But I use red sable as my main brush, unless I'm working with metallics. You always want to use synthetic for the metallic paints, because that kind of paint is just a bit to hard on natural fibers.
Honestly of everything you want to spend money on, spending more on a good brush will be the biggest pay off of anything you can get. They keep their point better, clean up better, give you better control and so on.
As i've improved, I've found I really appreciate a brush with a longer tip, it holds more paint and since you're typically dealing with fairly thin paint it drys out fairly quick. Longer tip means more paint, which means more painting before you have to go back to the palate.
The army painter line is pretty good, and I've used a lot of those. I've also used Citadels synthetic, but those tend to be the brushes I abuse the most.
For someone getting back into it, I'd recommend something like this...
So last month I painted up this Archer on a lark for a small painting competition over at the Battletech Painting and Customs Facebook group. I ended up deciding to provide it as a prize rather than an entry to get people motivated to paint.
Since I am going to have to ship this to someone shortly I figured I might as well throw a fun container in as well. I took a Pelican 1010 Micro case and painted it up to be something a little more thematically appropriate from the Mercenary Review Board. I even worked in a couple of fun references like the contract number being a reference to the April 2022 BTPC painting competition or the callsign of the mech being a Lovecraft throwback. Laid in a foam inlay to hold both the mini and a couple of gold aluminum dice and we're all ready to make a trip to the post office and/or local HPG station to signal for a dropship.
This one?
If you intend to store all of them in a case, much larger than that. That initial one I linked is not an efficient use of space, but it was a cheap option to show you what I was talking about. You'd probably want something from Feldherr, or just a large tote you can fill with their pluck foam levels if you want to have your entire collection in one case.
Personally I have a display shelf for the collection (nearing 250 after I get all my Kickstarter packs on it) and a briefcase size case to take 12 or so to the game.
I am using these or a variation since I can sometimes find them at Michael's. I line the sections with crafting foam sheets or salvaged packing foam like in the pluck and pull cases. LifeSmart USA Stackable Storage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTDM48K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Just get a pluck foam case (common with camera or telescope accessories) and cut to fit. I use some of my dad's old Orion cases, but they're pretty spendy to buy new. Something like this is probably a good start.
Hah lighten up man. It's an important part of the history of the brand, but it's still really doofy.
Take a look at these goobers
3D printed holes rarely end up round unless you specifically orient the entire part for the hole, which also tends not be the ideal orientation for the part as a whole. Drilling the holes has generally been easier and more precise, especially across the thousands of holes I've needed over the years.
As for the Drill bits, well I'm in Canada, so they obviously exist outside the US, I specifically bought a little set like this one and a simple conversion shows that 7/64" is about 2.75mm as well.
I use a LibreOffice spreadsheet to track my miniatures, including weight class, unit type, what era the model first appears, which faction or group I've assigned it to if it's been assigned to one, how it was painted up if it was painted up, etc. It's how I made these infographics. You could probably just as easily use Google Sheets.
Three hours might be just enough to get a small 1v1 or 2v2 game in, or most of a lance-on-lance game if of you already have all the charts more or less memorized and good strategy.
I just grab what strikes me as cool looking and make it work (or not). There's enough randomness in the dice plus variance in available terrain and scenario types to prevent any one "list" from dominating the field.
Lot of good novel references have been listed but just to clear up some of the terrible publication naming choices on the topic:
BattleTech: Battle of Tukayyid (link here) is the recent sourcebook that has a ton of refreshed lore and art on the BoT as well as rules for running actual games if your into that.
BattleTech: The Battle of Tukayyid (link here) is a recent anthology collection containing a bunch of short stories for the different forces in the BoT, it's purely fiction and each story was originally released with the Clan invasion kickstarter. Some of them are quite good, making it worth the $6 kindle price in my opinion.
If you go the air brush route I've had a lot of luck with Badgers Stynylrez line. https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-SNR-410-Stynylrez/dp/B00K3KGUME/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=badger+stynylrez+primer&qid=1648840290&sr=8-1
That set in particular has lasted me over a year and it everything you need for a zenithal highlight.
They are sometimes called measurement gauges.
Here is a bigger one on Amazon.
LITKO WHv8: Movement & Shooting Gauge, Translucent Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZLPKGW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_R6V4GMPM3FN9AXS52Y81
Here you go.
I use these cardboard baseball card holders. Handy for carry not just cards, but a few minis (with a little padding for protection) and they won’t break the bank.
BCW 330 Count - Bundle with 4 Corrugated Cardboard Storage Boxes - Baseball, Other Sport Cards, Gaming & Trading Card Collecting Supplies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084WRBRZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_556FTEFFPTNDY9S1JJP0
Here is the example from the Commando:
PAINT SET: AFFS: Draconis March Militia
SET NOTES: The DMM paint their equipment deep red.
Base Coat: Blood Angels Red - Citadel - 29-12
Cockpit: Deep Blue - Army Painter - WP1116 Azure - Vallejo - 70.902 Ivory - Vallejo - 70.918 Black - Vallejo - 70.950
Details: Black - Vallejo - 70.950 Green Grey - Vallejo - 70.886 Gunmetal Grey - Vallejo - 70.863
Drybrush: Amaranth Red - Vallejo - 70.829
SUBSET NOTES: Shake well, this is really thin
Hexbase Edge: Burnt Umber - Apple Barrel - 20745
Primer: Brush-on Primer - Army Painter - WP1472
Wash: Light Grey - Vallejo - 76.515
Powered by paintRack v1.44.1.29 for Android by Courageous Octopus! Get it now on Google Play at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.courageousoctopus.paintrack
I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAAXN90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
It lets me fit 33 mechs. Which is a bit more then you're looking for. But it's not much more than the 15 mech bag for a bit over twice the storage.
I dont have that issue, but i still got something similar to this due to the amount of record sheets i have laminated.
Accordian File Organizer/Expanding File Folder,Rainbow Portable/Desktop A4 Letter Size Filing Box,13-Pocket Plastic Accordion Bill Paper Document Organizer Wallet Briefcase,2 Colored A to Z/A-Z Tabs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4DBYFY/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_W4JXQYXCWNNH1S8AEVVH
Do a couple or three thin coats if using an airbrush.
Also I find the primer sticks better when use a brass wire toothbrush to scrub the model before painting.
https://www.amazon.com/Topbuti-Cleaning-Welding-Bristle-Scratch/dp/B07T8HWND7/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=GVESY3MNYIRM&keywords=brass%2Bwire%2Bbrush&qid=1643154166&sprefix=brass%2Bwire%2Caps%2C59&sr=8-4&th=1
There you go. The board game adaptation of the HBS game.
Ok so here’s what I use.
What’s great about this stuff is that all you literally need to do is tap the spot with the brush, and the fluid just runs along the lines. Like, no brushing required. You just tap and it smoothly travels across the panel line. It became a game changer once I realized it works on these minis. I have black, grey, dark grey, brown and dark brown. In your case I’d use the black. It really makes the mechs pop and has minimal cleanup.
I use these two primarily:
The most important thing is that you are happy with your work. We all have different priorities in our models, so if there is something you want to do better, maybe ask about and people can give specific advice?
That said, adding basing to models is way easier than I expected, and something I would recommend. Just get a jar of Vallejo Earth Texture (It comes in different shades, but you can paint it easily, so it doesn't really matter) and slap it on with a cheap brush you don't mind ruining. Later on you can get fancier if you want, but it is great effect for five minutes of work.
Ok, to be fair I did not exhaustively search both records sheets collections, but fret not! There are still options!
If you have a desktop or notebook computer then the aforementioned Megamek Lab or Solaris Skunk Werks are your best option. In Megamek Lab go to File->open->unit. then attach for Annihilator. You might have to select the different collections.
If you're only on a phone or tablet, or just prefer to track your sheets digitally there's Flecht Sheets. Press the ➕ tab up top and type in the unit you're looking for. You can then save, print out, or track damage directly on that site.
If you're on Android and don't mind signing up there's Mech Factory.
All of these options have all the sheets of all the canonical Annihilator variants.
I think there's an official app in development for Apple devices. Unfortunately I don't immediately have a link for that.
If so i wonder Why they let this post stand on their own forum claiming pgi have given permission for non-comercial purposes?
https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/85411-how-to-create-your-own-art-using-pgis-mechs/
I also failed to find a clear Statement like what you insinuated is their official stand. Closest i came were people selling said prints talking about Why they were stopping doing so.
If you've got some space wolves somewhere, one might make for pretty convincing Kodiak, though most space marines could fit the bill if you are brave enough to stick some claws onto those fists. Probably a bit too small, but that doesn't have to be a problem.
Sarna does not give quite the sense off the Kodiak's current design though, look at the MWO model for reference.
I took it from a forum where a very talented guy was posting his maps he made for his tabletop games. It transferred beautifully into Maptools.
https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/247544-custom-battletech-gaming-mat/
Oh, exosquad rings a bell. Never seen it, but I've heard the name!
As for MechWarriors, it could just be me and the books I grew up with, but when I'm thinking of Battletech, I think of half-naked pilots who go into battle in shorts and cooling vests, because their machines run so damn hot. That was a fairly unique aspect of the franchise, and maybe that's why its absence feels all the more noticeable.
Conventional ground forces had far more generic uniform designs ... but only generic in an 80s kind of way, which would ironically enough make them stand out again today, heh.
Standard CBT paper hex maps are 1¼in. across, flat-to-flat.
To make my templates, I use mkhexgrid with the following flags:
| --hex-height=116.4 | This sets the hex size to 1¼in across |
|---|---|
| --columns=nn | Sets the number of columns to create. 15 is a standard Battletech map sheet. |
| --rows=nn | Sets the number of rows to create. 17 is a standard Battletech map sheet. |
| --grid-color=RRGGBB | This sets the color of the grid, using 2-digit base-16 (hex) values for the red, green, and blue components. I recommend setting it to 000000 to get black lines, but feel free to set the color of your choice. |
| --coord-color=RRGGBB | This sets the color of the coordinate numbers included in the hexes, using 2-digit base-16 (hex) values for the red, green, and blue components. I like to use a value of ffffff to set it to pure white so it stands out from a more colorful background. |
| --output=format | Sets the output file format. I like to use svg as it's easily edited in something like Inkscape. The other supported formats are png (portable network graphics) and ps (postscript, useful for sending directly to a networked printer). |
| -o --outfile=filename | Output the resulting hex grid to the specified file. Otherwise it will print the file directly to your command prompt (DOS, PowerShell, sh, csh, ksh, tcsh, bash, ash, zsh, etc.). |
From there you can either print your hexgrid directly to paper, edit it and then print it on paper, or convert into a pathway to be 3D printed or CnC cut as a stencil.
I have an app that does something similar. It’s free and does no tracking, no ads. I made it because I got tired of using spreadsheets.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/battlevalue-calculator/id1574390005
It is not fixed yet. Here is some Copy and paste code, just copy the below line, edit the post, and paste it in the place of the two book titles.
> Wolves at the Boarder, and Heir to the Dragon
Your post was auto-removed (I think) because your original had the full reference extras in these two links.
Do you mind removing the reference extras (that is everything after and including ref=) from these urls? We try to avoid them here anyway.
I've done so on the quote, so you can just copy and paste.
Let me know when you have and I'll approve the post.
Yep!
This is what I bought but from my local store. I paid about $10 so this price isn’t horrendous.
The Army Painter 2 Part Modeling Clay, 20cm - Moldable Model Putty for Miniatures, Easy-to-Knead Green Stuff Putty Epoxy Clay for Sculpting, Green Stuff tools - The Original Green Stuff Kneadatite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AE5ZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XVXBSTSTPZGWJPY9YXQD
they are reprinting some not all of the original paperbacks
look for the tag Legends for the newest editions
> Guess you must really hate restaurants, gyms and other service stores. I'd be pissed if someone made running on threadmills etc exclusive to their gyms.
The vast majority of games are products, not services. So why are you likening games to the service industry? Is it because steam is a service? So I should applaud a store that turns products into store-dependent services?
Also restaurants have a thing called "Take out".
> Funny you should mention that, Steam has offline play, Epic doesn't.
https://www.epicgames.com/store/en-US/news/launcher-offline-mode
> And if Steam was signing exclusives and taking stuff out of the GOG store, I'd be right beside you crying foul.
No you wouldn't. Like you do know that a person used to be able to run PC games without any client whatsoever, right? You used to be able to go to a store, buy a game, it would have some shitty DRM on it usually, but you buy it and stick it in whatever computer you wanted and bingo it's yours.
But hey now most PC games aren't available like that. Instead you need to get it from Steam. Valve took what was basically an open system, the windows platform, and turned it into a closed system. Not every game is only on steam, but nearly every game has to be bought and launched through one of these anti-consumer store/clients.
And the PC section at the local gamestore? Gone. If a store has one it's WOW and The Sims, that's about it. Steam killed sales from these stores, in fact they basically sold a storefront from INSIDE other stores, but that wasn't anti-competitive right?
So please mate, don't vow to take action in a situation you know will never arise while simultaneously ignoring the much more aggregious anti-competitive nature of Steam's model.
I hadn't really considered optimizing something that large for a resin printer.
I did make available a set of JUST the structures (including the walls in smaller modular segments) here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/battletech-forward-base-hex-friendly-terrain-set-structures-and-walls-only
I feel like trying to print the foundations on a resin printer would consume a huge amount of resin, and be fragile to boot. Do you have any friends with FDM printers? They could probably run the foundation pieces off in just a few days if so.
I'll put some thought into it, but the foundations are definitely designed with FDM in mind.
If you really enjoyed the 40k ones you'll have to remember these have a lower production value. The writing isn't as good as some of the horus heresy stuff and much of it was written in the 90's/early 2000's and its definitely apparent in a few parts. As long as you can keep that in mind and you really enjoy the battletech franchise then these books are great. Anywho, warning aside, here's the link https://www.audible.com/pd/Sci-Fi-Fantasy/Battletech-Collection-I-Audiobook/B002V0PSX6/ref=a_search_c4_1_1_srTtl?qid=1509506995&sr=1-1
In terms of unit types, I recommend Era Report 3052; it's got random unit assignment tables for DCMS 'mech companies listing the most likely machines you might find. Some time ago, a fellow samurai copied the list into this thread on the MWO forums. 'Mechs that are listed twice or more often have a higher chance of being included (results are meant to be rolled with 2d6, but you should feel free to pick and merely regard this as an inspiration of sorts).
Some tactics of the Dragon have already been covered elsewhere here, but another oddity that springs to mind is the aggressive use of the appropriately heavily armed Jenner as skirmishers. Whereas most Inner Sphere militaries use their Light BattleMechs as scouts or backup, the DCMS is quite fond of dedicated light lances sent out to perform surprise raids or harass the enemy flanks and rear lines; quick in, quick out.
Did you offer your patronage to EA's Origin? Your original reply about there not being anything "Steam like" suggests you never have. Same goes for GOG.com which has the galaxy app. If you haven't been with Origin or GOG, I kinda doubt you're ever going to go to EGS regardless of what standards you hold dear.
Anyway as a primarily console gamer, exclusives are the matter of the day, and they don't bother me a bit. But when it comes to what's good business practice, and what's not, I think people are really just splitting hairs or using double standards. That's why talk about personal standards, or about what is and what is not "competition", don't really hold any weight with me. Because if I say "what about X" and a person ignores it, then- where's the standard?
And your main motivation, as stated yourself, is that you're emboldened against EGS because they're trying to "hurt Steam". Who cares if a company gets hurt? Companies don't care about you except for what money you can give them. If Steam cared about the consumer why didn't they have refunds before EA and GOG introduced them first?
You could do a map based campaign, with each player commanding a unit and maneuvering to control strategic objectives during a three-sided battle for a planet? Campaign Ops has the bare bones setup for such a campaign, and this map generator can create a hex map for strategic level play.
Haha... Funny you should say that, because it's currently an AngularDart web application, but it's written in such a way that I can easily recreate it as a Flutter mobile application, which I will do eventually.
Out of curiosity, what makes you wish it were native mobile? The web app works pretty well on mobile (I think), so what features are you missing? Offline use, maybe? Not sure I can think of any other highly desirable differences...
That's a great idea! Get the weapons in on it...
I almost exclusively use AngularDart to do web apps, and I write them so that all their logic can be shared with a Flutter mobile app. So far, I've only spent a few hours on this app.
So this link is apparently not bad
But it also depends on you. I started with the arrival of the Clans, through operations Bulldog and Scorpion, then started branching out, because I began my BT life with MW3.
Lots of people recommend the Warrior Trilogy too...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K7JRLQW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
just need to add the image you want.
Battlevalue Calculator on iOS and Android
It’s free, no ads, no tracking.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/battlevalue-calculator/id1574390005
In the camera app enter Pro mode, set your ISO as low as it'll go, and select a long exposure time - 4 to 8 seconds is good in low light conditions.
Night modes often rely on a high ISO to gather more light quickly, but also results in the photoreceptive media (film or CCD) being more sensitive to stray photons resulting in that grainy aspect. Night mode also still relies on a longer exposure (just not as long due to the higher ISO) resulting in blurriness when not holding the camera perfectly still (such as in one's hands).
RE assembling, the older minis are SO MUCH BETTER to put together (mostly) than the new sculpts, though the lack of clear instructions often leaves you wondering 'wait is this a rocket pack or a sensor pod' and the fact that they sometimes bundle you with extra bits and sometimes just bundle you with the wrong bits makes building them even more !FUN!
To get a better glue bond, you can find purpose made pewter modeling glue. If you use traditional glues try finding a quick dry glue accelerant. My friend has some I use sometimes on my IWM minis. It really works, though you still may want to give it 24hrs to cure. Also I would try not to breath it in. IDK whats in that stuff, but it smells like something you probably dont want inside you. Im not a Dr, or your mom, though, so you live your truth. Even with the accelerator I've noticed sometimes IWM pewter minis just fall apart. Its frustrating. I have been completely unable to assemble my vulture mk1 because if the legs go on right then the arms pop off, or if the arms feel like theyre on good I cant get the legs to hold in place. Its a nightmare.
Macross Bandai 1/100 Scale Exquisite Model Kit Tactical Pod Glaug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028OQYHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4FAPZC7X4TDCQFD8WC8V.
I think I’ve seen it in 1/72 as well. Idk about 1/35 though.
Oh cool.
Is it something like this?
GSI Creos Gundam Marker Value Set -GM01&02&03- (Black, Gray, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BHP21GH3K65MP38Q4PTV
We don't allow referral links, delete everything after and including the ref= and I'll approve your post.
for example you can us this link: https://www.amazon.com/Battletech-Clan-Invasion-Box-Exp/dp/B086RVSZP6/
Let me when you have done so and I'll approve your post.
There's an official sourcebook. It has scenarios based on most of the episodes in the show. Between and a friend and I we have the minis we need to play a few of them. https://www.amazon.ca/1st-Somerset-Strikers-Battletech-Sourcebook/dp/1555602584