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/r/electricians'
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/electricians:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/electricians:
Internet Archive
Jet.com
Google Photos
Amazon
Alibaba.com
Costco
ipernity
Shutterstock
Circuit JS
Squarespace
Reddit Enhancement Suite
Microsoft Bing
Home-Assistant.io
DNS66
HackADay
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/electricians:
Fraction Calculator Plus Free
ElectroDroid
LookBehind for Android Wear
Color Grab (color detection)
Electrician's Bible
Alarmy (Sleep If U Can) - Alarm clock
NEMA Configuration Guide
Electrical Calc Canada
Spectral Audio Analyzer
EveryCircuit
Conduit Runner Pro
The most popular reviews in /r/electricians:
Do yourself a favor and buy a circuit breaker finder, the tool has paid for itself for the time it saved me.
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Electrical-Standard/dp/B003LHJSY8/
Just for the love of god what is Kline's fascination with stupid push buttons that get activated in the back of the van so i gotta hear beeping from that and the five wireless testers i have lost in other bags?
That actually exists. Where I’m from, at least, most of the bigger sized companies actually supply them to their foreman for FREE! Here’s a link to something similar, (it’s not the exact same though because a lot of them are different colors/shapes/sizes depending on who made them): https://www.amazon.com/3M-Pulling-Lubricant-Spray-WLS-QT/dp/B007BHQHWK
dude, you bring a microwave to the job site? that is some next level genius there.
i've got a nice thermos, and grabbed one of these https://www.amazon.com/HotLogic-Mini-Personal-Portable-Black/dp/B00EC7XJ00/
to run off the truck inverter... but i think i really do need a microwave.
bringing your own food is way healthier than eating out, anyways.
It's a sectional wallplate. You can add as many middles as you want and then it has a end plate. They always look horrible
<em>Poorly Made in China: An Insider's Account of the China Production Game</em> by Paul Midler
An insider reveals what can―and does―go wrong when companies shift production to China
>In this entertaining behind-the-scenes account, Paul Midler tells us all that is wrong with our effort to shift manufacturing to China. Now updated and expanded, Poorly Made in China reveals industry secrets, including the dangerous practice of quality fade―the deliberate and secret habit of Chinese manufacturers to widen profit margins through the reduction of quality inputs. U.S. importers don’t stand a chance, Midler explains, against savvy Chinese suppliers who feel they have little to lose by placing consumer safety at risk for the sake of greater profit. This is a lively and impassioned personal account, a collection of true stories, told by an American who has worked in the country for close to two decades. Poorly Made in China touches on a number of issues that affect us all.
since the domain registry (the IPv4/6 addresses of .com .org .give a fuck) is no longer solely under US preview, you could press your parlement to maintain a strong and free domain.
just so i am clear... you are talking about a post hole digger . that is like this guy working. I have worked with a handful of guys like that I call them "Grinders" because even though they have no clue how to do the job they will grind away and get it done eventually.
Buy once cry once! I would start with a used Fluke 87/3 and a good NCVT like this:
Amprobe-2734332 VP-440 Non-Contact Voltage Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI7BTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_577AKABTSBD2KMSYBKRP
Get rid of your crescent wrench and get at least one of these. Seriously. Could even get rid of your channel locks aswell.
KNIPEX 86 03 250 SBA Pliers Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EXOK22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CSSbCbJA9A6PZ
I don't know about OP, but EVERYONE where I work uses the Brady BMP21 plus with their nylon cloth tape too. It's super resistant to oil and other general boatyard filth.
I saw this in another post G-Clip 10-Pack Electrical Box Repair - For Loose Electrical Switches and Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F2W1L9C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NC4NJJ8FVNAAA0E8V5WB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I wanted to buy a cable running dart gun to run wire through open ceiling areas, but my boss wouldn't pay for it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-06186-Cablecaster-Pulling-Three/dp/B001HWAGRM
A FLIR C2 would probably be a great investment. Caps usually start to bulge or leak if they are going bad, they don't usually just spontaneously combust. Most hotspots are caused by loose connections. Hard to say more without knowing what the devices in the panel were.
The adjustable wrench pliers is a total game changer. I think every electrician needs a pair
They're not cheap but a great tool to have on you if you do industrial work.
Ah, perfect. Thanks.
Romex is the same stuff. At least that's my layman's interpretation of what I know of it. I've got 14-2 that I use for some home projects.
I'm curious if Romex is kind of like Band-Aid... Romex being a main brand...
I've seen very few guys with these in the tools. The are worth every penny...and not very expensive. Well worth the cost.
It's been a little over a year and I still have my 'outdoor receptacles' circuit disconnected from the breaker and instead connected to an extension cord, plugged into a wall timer in my basement.
Someday I'll get around to installing one of those electromechanical clocks for the christmas lights.
Looks like you have mold on the bottom of your roof deck. This is because without an insulating draft stop cover these things leak moist air like crazy and the water vapor is collecting on the cold roof deck.(https://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130-Covers-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B002XVPUAO)
​
Also looks like you have a major mouse shit issue which means you have a mouse piss issue all over your attic which is probably your smell. Could even be some bonus rotting mouse carcasses up there somewhere. I hope you are wearing a mask when messing with this
I recommend that you get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE
The bent screw drivers will save your wrists in trim out/plugging and switching.
Also consider getting a 8/32, 6/32 tap set for when metal boxes get buggered. Missing a small flashlight, second pair of channel locks, a gfci plug tester, maybe a circuit breaker finder i'd go with the Kline one. non contact voltage tester. Get some long 6/32's to toss in the pouch to save you from searching if you come up short on a install, last but not least get a combo bit set for the impact driver, lots of contractors use torx screws and you might end up encountering that. Sorry for the wall of horrible grammar and i could go on and on about tools but this will be a start.
ideally, just get a coat rack.
you might be able to find the right size hall tree that leaves the panel unblocked
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOHOME-Entryway-Industrial-Organizer-Furniture/dp/B082DW48LZ/
your instinct to ask before drilling that wall was correct. thank you.
Replace the existing switch with a Lutron Caseta switch or dimmer. Install a blank old-work box at the top of the stairs with a Pico Remote mounted in it. Done.
https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C
They still sell 300 and 500 watt incans on Amazon. Larger bulbs never made the bulb ban.
Cotton clothes, not synthetic or wicking, cotton will get wet and slowly evaporate and that will actually cool you off. Wet and sticky is what you want. Long sleeve cotton t-shirt, long cotton pants, but not jeans. I hate jeans they are too heavy, l like the Carhart cotton dungaree. No gloves and I sometimes swap out my boots for sneakers. I also keep a change of clothes in my truck for those really nasty days when I am drenched and just want to drive home dry.
Take a big water bottle (gallon) up with you and a face towel so you can use it to wipe off the insulation with some water and the towel. A wet towel on the back of your neck is heaven in a hot attic.
Point a fan up through the opening to get the air flowing, and pay attention to your energy level, motor skills, and breathing, or a headache those are all signs to get cool now. If you start getting nauseous it's too late you took it too far.
108°F is the limit, if your body gets this hot you have done damage and should seek medical attention.
You don't install them on rough in? I've never had a siding guy provide them, much less install them for us.
But for light boxes, it is a pain to knife out an opening for a 4-octagon box with the wire already hanging out. Much faster to holesaw it with no wire there. I feel your pain.
I use the through wall Arlington receptacle boxes and love then. Flush fit to the siding and not the stupid weatherproof box plus bubble cover wart on the wall.
Bell System Type 283 phone jack.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telephone_jack_and_plug
You can get an RJ12 adapter for it in various places.
You can get one with an expandable hood
TayMac ML500G Single Gang Horizontal/Vertical Mount Weatherproof Expandable Low Profile Extra Duty while In-Use Cover, Gray Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O37F3US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vueuFb86W27D2
So why don't they make a removable plate with rollers that you can just attach to the lb?
I've used these on smaller boxes. I find it curious if they haven't made one for something like that. Would provide the same benefit and be repeatable with a lower cost.
Madison Electric Products 104 Pull-It https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8NVKW4/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_PYMEJA46FXTKM9G3XF2F
We are opsessed with sucking dick because we suck dick.
Freedome of speech isn't onesided. You have the right and the opportunity to say what you want and as you did, but so have we the right to call your said words Horseshit
This hard hat has been incredibly useful when I’m cutting conduit or a metal stud. It’s worth every penny.
Go to your local library. Look in non-fiction for Dewey 621.31924 and see what's there on home wiring. Borrow one and read it. Pay particular attention to how to wrap the wire around the screw.
Maybe this:
Ultimate Guide: Wiring, 8th Updated Edition (Creative Homeowner) DIY Home Electrical Installations & Repairs from New Switches to Indoor & Outdoor Lighting with Step-by-Step Photos (Ultimate Guides) by Editors of Creative Homeowner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1580117872/
If your library has it.
Buy a longer extension then. You're acting like you aren't able to just get new strips https://www.amazon.com/GE-Outlet-Extension-Outlets-45195/dp/B07PG9Q7SP/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=12+foot+cord+power+strip&qid=1620203249&sr=8-4
Also I've got a rather decent gaming pc setup with amps, dacs, audio interfaces and the works. I can't fathom how you have that many outlets in use for a pc.
Free videos on math and science: Khan Academy
Books: Mathematics for electrical students - many more on that site.
You sure can: Example
Googled the model number on the top right. “49445/dmb-wh”
UltraPro, Dimmable LED, CFL & Incandescent Bulbs, Single Pole, On/Off Rocker Switch, Button, White, 49445 MyBright In-Wall Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HFY24Z3/
DataComm Electronics 50-6623-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G4X69YPGPJA07AXZBDPQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Something like this
I've used one like this for years. The one I have is a single blade (which works great). I guess the new and improved version of this type of cutter is dual blade (which I'm sure works even better).
Quick, accurate, and almost dust free hole cutting.
Look up "3 position wall switch." They ain't cheap.
Did this one fail? If you didn't need the "Off" position then you could do this with a basic 3-way switch.
I absolutely hate can lights, especially old work ones. You guys need to check out those LED wafer lights. They're so much better than recessed cans. With the wafer lights you also have a lot more flexibility with where you can put them. Here's some cheap ones on Amazon that I've used and they're pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8QWY7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YE6lDbR3ERZEN
Lithonia makes some too that we use a lot but they're pretty expensive.
you're sure that's not just a plug multiplier that screws into the face-plate screw ?
https://www.amazon.com/GE-54947-Grounded-Adapter-Outlets/dp/B00006IBFA/
"The place to improve the world is first in one's own heart and head and hands, and then work outward from there." -Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, by Robert Pirsig
If you are at all interested in philosophy, ethics, metaphysics, and the like, I recommend reading this book. It is no exaggeration to say that if I hadn't read this book, I would never have even considered blue collar work as a career choice. The author makes a compelling (though quite dense) case for "Quality" as a supreme virtue and how, as people who work with our hands, we are responsible for bringing Quality into the world- both in a material and in a deeper, metaphorical sense.
High voltage or low voltage are the most likely culprits. A direct lightning strike to the power lines would certainly cause problems, but it would be noticed (power going out during electrical storms). Low voltage, however, would be more difficult to see. Get them a cheap plug in voltmeter. It says in a simple display what the voltage is. they are cheap enough and are frequently sold with RVs in mind, as you would want to know how the power is at some random RV park before you plug in your portable home. A random example would be https://jet.com/product/detail/d731505aa3a147b2874edea82cb9a357?jcmp=pla:ggl:wm_dur_gen_automotive_parts_accessories_a3:automotive_parts_accessories_rv_parts_accessories_lighting_electrical_a3:na:PLA_876527005_44509364619_pla-334017439651:na:na:na...
Just look for abnormally high or low voltage.
The 2P - 30 is breaker locked for some reason, not relevant to the size of your panel of course. You have a 150 amp service on your house, which is too small for your install. If you need 3 2p circuits for your heater, you must have a monster. http://www.ecosmartus.com/support/electrical-requirements/ You do realize that tankless water heaters don't actually save you money, yes? I would do your homework before going that route, unless you have already done that of course. if not, have a quick read http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/heating-cooling-and-air/water-heaters/tankless-water-heaters/overview/tankless-water-heaters-ov.htm
Your typical storage water heater draws about 25 amps and doesn't require a monster service for it to create and maintain temperature. Needing 3 different 2p circuits drawing almost 90 amps should immediately tell you tankless haters are energy pigs. No they don't use any power when not in use, but on demand the unit is full on the entire time. If you can get a gas-fired unit, that would be better if gas is available for you. If not, have fun upgrading your service and then running new wiring to your water heater.
Great. Don't expect the instructor to force feed you. Learn, learn, learn
If you buy Knight's book, be sure it's the latest version and the one for your province. If you know everything in it, you're well on your way. Libraries may have older versions - they're OK to begin with. Also any home handyman wiring guide, US or Canada is worth borrowing, not buying.
Don't let the math scare you. It's really simple, but too many aren't used to using math to solve problems.
Look for free books here. For a start, search for NEETS but there are others.
Lots of free stuff now I didn't have!
Wrong. Voltage is pressure. Current (expressed in Amperes) is the amount of flow.
Voltage isn't what kills you (tasers operate at a few hundred thousand volts but have almost no current), current is. See this chart
I absolutely LOVE mine. Keeps me from having to swing that sledge as much. I used to live down in south Florida, on the gulf coast, and there is a TON of coral rock underground about a foot down. With these bits you can drive a full ground rod all the way down. It's impressive.
Do I recommend you buy one? YES. Even if you use it once and put it away. The savings on your back for that one rod is well worth it.
It’s a GE THQL2160GFSI.
Try Eaton GFTCB260 Breaker, 60A, 2P, 120/240V, 10 kAIC, Type BR Ground Fault Breaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9D86Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_95E32JCBMDEJ8FVKNMFK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would use dolphin connectors.
You strip the wires, twist them together, stick them inside the dolphin connector, and then smash the connector down with a pair of pliers. They're gel filled. I use literally thousands of them per year to connect 18~22 gauge wires for outdoor applications.
No, but spilling something liquid down the back of it might maybe possibly make it happen. The actual live parts are pretty deep in the wall.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001DD68YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_EBP89DRSNDB0GD2W750E
I'd buy a couple of these and call it a day.
Your meter is very sensitive and provides no real "load" while measuring voltage. You may be getting high-impedance AC leakage that is very noticeable if you touch the metal screw lightly (I use the back of a finger to feel for the buzz). It probably an indication of a poorly grounded/ungrounded electrical box. Purchase a low cost "receptacle tester" and see what its lights tell you.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Electrical-Klein-Tools-RT250/dp/B08QW7K1JJ
Do you own a book on home wiring? Go to your local library. Look in non-fiction for Dewey 621.31924 and see what's there on home wiring. Borrow one and read it. Pay particular attention to how to do this work. Details matter.
One example of such a book: Ultimate Guide: Wiring, 8th Updated Edition (Creative Homeowner) DIY Home Electrical Installations & Repairs from New Switches to Indoor & Outdoor Lighting with Step-by-Step Photos (Ultimate Guides) by Editors of Creative Homeowner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1580117872/
An adapter like this will get you where you need. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-European-Unidapt-American-Universal/dp/B081Y8HNT1
You could also get another inverter that would work….. but the adapter is easier and cheaper.
Soldering hasn't been a thing in the trade for a long time and it outlawed by the NEC. Try /r/AskElectronics
That said I'm pretty good at soldering and used to solder surface and through-hole electronic components. The big thing is practice. You need a good unit with the tip for your application and a decent solder and flux.
My favorite unit is the Hakko FX-888D with a variety of nozzle, flat, and chip tips. Go to YouTube and watch some videos.
the best way to convert 120VAC to 24VAC is with a transformer
search Amazon for doorbell transformers... here's one for less than $15
I had good luck with the greenlee flexible extended augurs. They make an extension too, looks well rated on Amazon.
Greenlee 921 Quick Change Extension Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003649AQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PxL0Bb1R1Z8MY
Why don't use something mountable like this. ? Quite a few choices to satisfy any situation. And no messing with electricity involved.
They do work well. It’s the best solution I’ve found for removing the yellow jacket on 12/2 without nicking the conductors. I haven’t used the Milwaukee’s.
Wire Cutter and Wire Stripper, Cuts Solid Copper Wire, Strips 12 and 14 AWG Solid Wire Klein Tools K1412 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F9HIEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kOXJCbVZP1P4W
For Canadians, the best app I've found is the Canadian Electrical Calculator. Costs $10 but I think it's worth it for quick answers. It's not very pretty though.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.snappyappz.ec&hl=en
If you want more electromagnetism, you will need either more turns (many more) or more current/voltage, or both realistically.
A good article on making it is here. http://hackaday.com/2017/01/15/heavy-lift-electromagnet-from-microwave-oven-transformers/
Alternatively, you can get an LED-designed solution from the get go and not have to worry about installing cans in a way that they're safe for the heat of incandescents someone might install later on.... 4 pk for $100 seems like a good deal when dimmable LED bulbs can cost $10-20.
http://www.costco.com/LuxLite-4-in.-Recessed-LED-Lighting-Kit-4-Pack.product.100227304.html
That doesn't matter. You can't change the past. What are your math skills like now?
If you laugh at math problems now because they are too easy, it shouldn't matter what they were.
The software for mining Ethereum was optimized using Radeon cards, and the resent price surge has caused a global drought. I mined with a Nvidia card for about a year just cause that is just what I had, but the same equivalently priced Radeon card would have doubled my mining profits. As I mentioned below, Ethereum is moving over to Proof of Stake (POS) within the next year so it seems like a waste of time and money to build all this given you won't be able to mine after the switch. A lot of people have hope the Golem network will be up and running by then to capture all the processing power, but I have my doubts they will have a proper product set up by that time.
Connectors for this stuff. We call it greenfield or flex around here. NEC calls it flexible metallic tubing*.
*edit: NEC calls it Flexible Metallic Conduit. Credit to /u/saltyjohnson for the correction.
> > Where is a good place to learn more about electrical work before I apply? (basic skills, procedures, terminology, etc.)
> believe it or not, the library has a ton of great books on the subject, from theory to installation applications. Other than that, google is your friend.
A ton of freebies you can read online or download to any eBook reader you own.
Well that depends on your state. Here in FL lunch breaks are only required for employees under 18. If you’re over 18, lunch breaks are not required. There are a few rules you need to follow IF your company voluntarily decides to have them.
There is no federal law mandating lunch breaks.
https://www.deputy.com/blog/meal-and-rest-break-laws-by-state
For troubleshooting fuse panels, a screw in breaker like this is extremely valuable. Trips like a breaker and is resettable so you don't have to keep screwing in new fuses and hoping.
With the glass front on the fuses, you should be able to identify if any of them are blown. It looks like the first 2 on the left are good, and the 4th from the left looks good. But i'm mostly guessing based on what I can see.
(Disclaimer, this is from my experience, YMMV. If this is a rental, it's not your problem.) It looks to be feeding knob and tube wiring, there are good things and bad things with this setup. Good thing-fuses always trip when their ratings are exceeded. Bad thing-it's easy to screw in the wrong size fuse (are those 30A fuses the right size or did somebody just get sick of changing the 20A fuses). Good thing-knob and tube is almost indestructible and was usually put together by craftsmen. Bad thing-when knob and tube gets hacked into, it's rarely done by professionals and it's like organ rejection in the human body. Bad thing-knob and tube was designed to be installed in free air, so when insulation is added to attics and walls it can get overheated.
In a building that old, I would have serious concerns about any sort of kiln. You could get a small propane kiln, but the fire situation is worrying. Are there smoke alarms? A system for the whole building? Good fire escapes?
I’d recommend doing a radon test. Get the two pack of these, put them both in the lowest occupied level of your house for 90 days, and mail them in for analysis.
That, or there are actually cheap telescoping magnet sticks. No affiliate code because I don't have one, I don't even know if those specifically are good, I just know I have a similar one and it's super handy for those hard to reach places like in car engine bays where a magnet on a string is almost worse than useless.
There's a tape measure with one side in inches and the other in inches multiplied by 1.4 specifically for 45° bends.
The shittiest pipe run I had to do was try and match 4 pipes that had 1 45° offset in them because whoever was there before me decided to round the math up to 1.5. On top of that, none of the math was consistent and none of the offsets had the same angle so now my pipe looks like shit but it fits in with the rest I guess.
Also you could probably use to hook to a tv with an adapter like this RCA Matching Transformer -VH54R https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T3Y20JRWBN3C6Z3C393M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What we typically do with the higher end drivers is attach them to a 4 square with a plastic pass through bushing because they have their own knockouts. This is a bit of an oddity with two separate loads in one location, I'm used to only having one load per hidey hole.
Only negative things I'd say is why such a big hole in the cabinet but the cabinet people probably did that. Also I would have tried to figure out a way to cover the hole and bring the wires into the back of the enclosure if possible.
edit: For reference, this is similar to what we use https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Magnetic-Transformer-Voltage-Compatible/dp/B073FT7NTZ. It looks exactly the same but is made by CORE Lighting.
I’ve seen these type work in person. 8/8 would recommend.
Galak Electronics Traffic Light Controller/Sequencer Noiseless 120V-240V / 650W per Channel - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM5RM6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6Z1BZC03M763SNN0Q4T7
That’s maybe one more piece to get you going.
I would not choose that one. I would choose this tool if affordable or something similar. The other one is very specialized.
Or maybe Knipex 97 21 215 Sb Crimping Pliers.
I can buy a crimp tool (no connectors) here for $1 but it's poor, it bends too much.
I would find the connectors you like and then the tool that works for them.
I've only had two issues. One, they're hot in the summer. Two, I hate cargo pockets. The pull out pockets and knee pads are amazing.
I would clip off the end, strip the wires and add a mechanically robust replacement connector. If you scrape off the melted plastic and you find one of the "blades" is wider than the other one, you have a polarized connector. Please take special care to notice which wire in the cord goes to the wider blade. This GE-branded connector from Jasco should do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/Jasco-Products-54268-4306-31W5-Attachment/dp/B000BP7WJ6
While you work on this, play careful attention to strain relief to make sure you can't pull out the wires by mistake. Maybe wrap the cord with some electrical tape to thicken it up for the connector body to squeeze down _very_ firmly.
>Ultimate Guide: Wiring, 8th Updated Edition (Creative Homeowner) DIY Home Electrical Installations & Repairs from New Switches to Indoor & Outdoor Lighting with Step-by-Step Photos (Ultimate Guides) by Editors of Creative Homeowner
Every public library has one or more books like this. Unless we steal them all, people will read them and try some of this stuff. And honestly, at least the books are edited by competent people (AFAIK) and warn about the dangers. They also show, in pictures, correct ways of working and thus are arguably better then the internet.
But unlike us, the books can't detect the arrogant and incompetent (a bad combination) and urge them to leave it to the pros. So it's not all bad.
I have the Spider Tool Holster. on my Milwaukee M12 Fuel Impact. Great for trimming out when you need to switch between Phillips and Roberson.
I saw a low voltage guy using one to fish a wire down a metal door frame to a magnetic latch 15 years ago. I have been using one ever since. This and the Magnepull
have gotten me out of quite a few binds.
** BE SAFE - COVER THESE CONTACTS ** THIS IS WELDING TERRITORY **I would create a "star" for each inverter input with robust copper bus bar for positive and negative. example from amazon If you wire each battery separately to that bus bar, then those battery harnesses have to be rated for 1/8th the total current. Then a short heavy wire from each bus bar to the inverter input. Consider fusing each battery harness .
Is the inverter also a "charger"? If not, then the charger can share that bus bar as well.
** P.S. The next time around, get a 48V inverter and wire the batteries in series with less loss due to high current. :-) **
Yea they do.I recently bought the handles for my new kleins.
Klein Tools 89 Replacement Handles, Plastic Handle Replacement Set for 8 to 9-Inch Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093D7AI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2GPARJNX5E9BW3TG8P2D
Bindicator Roto-Bin-Dicator in a NEMA 4X Polyester Coated Aluminum Housing; 1-1/4” NPT Mounting, H-36 Coupling, H370 1-1/2" X 5" SS Paddle and H19 Top of Bin Powder Coated Steel Mounting Plate. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RVDD813/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K5PJTGTFFJXYPDDTF9YF there’s a link to it on Amazon
I would look up conduit repair online they have some websites that might have solutions. But otherwise the best option would be to properly fix it man. They do have repair 90s that might work if the angle is enough for you man it’s in 2 pieces just clip them in together.
Also check out this LB looks pretty cool and might save you a bunch of time make it a lot easier UL listed and everything.
Madison Electric Products EZLB200 Connector, 2", Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PTP1P9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HR54N0PCPRAYHQFZSAB6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I blow it out with air, and live with what remains. I also discovered these recently. The reversible socket is removable, and allows direct access to the magnet. This tool now lives in my impact driver, and covers most of my nut driver needs.
If people fail, it will be from a lack of business knowledge, not trade skills.
Example: Starting a Business All-in-One For Dummies
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1119565219
Just one example. Try your local library, Dewey 658.1141
Are you afraid of magnets? Cause that's what you are measuring.
For giggles I tested the app and it went crazy near a magnet as expected. Same reading when the microwave was running and not running. Beeping near my digital meteo station. No response when I put my phone besides an outdoor 5Ghz AP or my router. So I am confident that the app is useless as an EMF(Electromagnetic Field Radiation ) meter.
FYI meters are tools that are tested and calibrated and come with some certifications for their readings. You can't just download an app to your phone and expect any kind of calibrated reading, what your phone sensors and OS are outputing could be very wrong. Actual quality meters have been calibrated, have the certification paper that states when it was done and usually they need to be recalibrated after some time for their readings to be considered valid.
I’m huge fan of this Klein ratcheting stubby screwdriver. It’s great for super tight spaces and tiny screws, I mostly use it on can lights and fart fans when HVAC puts their ducting in my way.
https://www.amazon.com/Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-32593/dp/B01I2KJ91K
Ratcheting because lots of times there is only room to move fingers and not wrist.
> The 1000v ones will come when I have a better idea which ones to get
Old Electrical Wiring: Evaluating, Repairing, and Upgrading Dated Systems – by David Shapiro
Not cheap, but for a DIYer might be an idea. You could also look on Craigslist for a retired guy and pay him to advise you. There are codes you need to follow.
Black & Decker Codes for Homeowners - book. If you really want to chance it.
As for your picture, those switches are new but the wiring is improperly attached. A book will show you the correct way to attach the wiring.
It could be simple. But if you find more wires in there than you expect, well, that's when we get posts from people who can't figure out where they all go.
An electrician can also spot some other things there that need attention that you would ignore. You're getting a repair and a free check up when you hire a professional.
If you want to try, read up on the work first. Here's one example:
Ultimate Guide: Wiring, 8th Updated Edition (Creative Homeowner) DIY Home Electrical Installations & Repairs from New Switches to Indoor & Outdoor Lighting with Step-by-Step Photos (Ultimate Guides) by Editors of Creative Homeowner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1580117872/
Or, go to your local library. Look in non-fiction for Dewey 621.31924 and see what's there.
~~do they make a diamond blade for them oscillating tools ?~~
they do! https://www.amazon.com/XXGO-Oscillating-Diamond-Segment-XG8001S/dp/B08NVNGM3T/
SST Industrial Wire Stripping Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHVZ42R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D14cGbKK7WZFP
Unfortunately it looks like the price went up from when I bought it, but still very much worth it
First of all wrong sub,
Anyway yes that would work but is pricey. Consider taking apart a light and using the sparker from that or in you can use this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07SD4G1QL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NKtbGbJ0911NE. They can be found much cheaper than this.
They tend to burnout as well so just keep that in mind.
The idea of a sparker is to start combustion so size does not matter as long as you have a well mixed air fuel mixture.
These guys are the best weatherproof connectors for small low voltage wires. They're filled with gel, you just stick the end of the wire in, and then smash the connector down with pliers. I use them so much at work, I buy them 5000 at a time.
If you have a 120 volt circuit for your boiler, and would like to have just a transfer switch for the boiler only, there are a couple products on the market which provide a 5-15 inlet plug and transfer switch. The transfer switch would be wired in either adjacent to your panel or adjacent to the boiler. During an outage, run an extension cord from the boiler to the generator. Boilers typically don't take much power to run the controls and a circulator.
Will mount on a 4-in square 2-1/8 deep box, with all of the other fixings. Will need some slack in the line, or a new piece of wire to run from here to the next box to have enough wire to make the connections.
No way an apprentice is allowed within spitting distance of 600v. 480v maybe, and they'll never see over 240v if residential.
I always recommend Fluke T5-600 as a first meter. $108 on Amazon
I love solenoid testers and definitely encourage my coworkers, especially new apprentices, to invest in a solenoid tester instead of non-contact voltage testers.
I have both a Knopp and an Ideal solenoid tester. I prefer the Knopp because the leads are a lot heavier and flexible in extremely cold temperatures, the probes seem to be a lot better built than the Ideals and the frame size is much smaller than the Ideal and takes up less room in my tool bags.
Just my two cents.