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yep, an HDMI splitter which removes HDCP is the easiest ticket. I use the OREI 1x2 HDMI Splitter Model #HD-102. Caution!! Amazon description says it doesnt strip HDCP, but reviews are filled with folks who ordered one and say that HDCP stripping is/isn't working. So it seems like hit or miss, but the one I got does strip HDCP. Note, it does not pass 4K (not that you need that for PS3).
This bug has been around by now since decades and the Elgato Team never fixed it so far or even acknowledge it in their Bug List.
The only fix that worked so far is to ignore the Elgato Capturing Software complete and use instead either OBS or XSplit.
So to save yourself some time, uninstall the Elgato Capturing Sofware and go instead with one of those two above mentioned programs since you won't get here any help since this is an issue on an Level where even the Elgato Team back in Germany has not clue how to solve it and just carry it around since Day One.
I get that, but (and this is not specific to Blu Ray/DVD playback) at the end of the day, something like you are proposing is generally going to technically be copyright infringement unless all of your friends legally
The alternative to something like this - to be able to do it legally, would be something akin to Twitch or Amazon's watch party or something like Teleparty:
cheaper option is to get a splitter that downscales one of the outputs. I use the EZCOO 4k hdmi splitter Model #SP12H2. I can confirm it works for a PS4 PRO and PS5 signal. One signal goes to my 4k monitor. The other signal goes to the capture card for 1080p. It works using a Elgato HD60 or the Elgato HD60 Pro. Haven't tested on HD60S+.
Amazon link EZCO HDMI Splitter
This guy has a good review one it.
I've found that the non-powered splitters have been less than reliable. This is similar to the one that I have that works really well.
Not sure if they work as I'm having some issues with mine and usb cables. But you can get usb to ethernet so basically you use ethernet cable to carry the signal across. amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CDMQ852/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this for Xbox, Switch and Classic Consoles to HDMI. Haven't had any issues with it. Just make sure you set the correct EDID switches. You can also run audio out of it with a 3.5mm cable. I run an AverMedia Live Gamer Ultra and the 4K passes through great, though I never use it because the Ultra only does 30fps and I don't need to capture 4K. But 1080/60 works great.
Yeah, I think you're SOL without some network workarounds that you may or may not be comfortable with. I assume your campus now only has Wi-Fi vs. ethernet ports in rooms? If so, something like this travel router might allow you to create a sub-network that bridges the the campus wifi to a local wifi that only you'd have access to AND works with authentication (mileage may vary on mileage). It may reduce your speeds and have other issues, but may allow you to work around to get the Key Light to work.
One thought: have you considered the Key Light Mini, which I believe has onboard controls as it's meant for portable use as well as local?
Sorry, forgot to mark this as resolved, but I put the solution in my edit on the OP. The USB card was indeed the issue. This is the card I have. It's only 1 controller, as you mentioned.
The only other things I have connected to it are a bluetooth dongle and an Xbox wireless controller receiver. But still, seems like the capture card takes up more bandwidth than I had anticipated it needed. I didn't think resolution or refresh rate would matter since encoding is happening on the hardware itself, is it not?
Hey bro I found a fix for it .
I bought a splitter, one way in input and two ways out for output , one goes to the PC elgato and the other goes to my monitor, second hdmi that it has. I toggle between that and all works , doblby sound , image ect , I still run at 120hz when playing my ps5 on certain games and elgato still receives the feed at 119-120hz .
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PT97CQK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
​
25bucks bro. let me know if you have any questions
Just as I suspected.
Card is rated at 5v/0.9a per port. I don't think it gives more than that to each port.
Facecam Pro is rated at 5v/1.5a. It's not getting the proper power. I would replace the card with a higher quality one, like this one. It supports 5v/3a to each port. Double the amps than what the camera needs.
Got it on Amazon. I’m sure it’s just outdated. Amazon
If there is one that is really good and. It too expensive I would love to check it out 🫡
I have the same problem with this cable:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B01L0F6AJI/
It does allow 100W charging, is 10 Gbps USB C Gen 2 Cable and is USB IF certified.
I think the problem is not that the cable is "incompatible" with the stream deck. I think the stream deck is just not following proper standards of using the cable.
I can't think of any other explanation.
(A cheapish other "small" cable does work which I have, it does not have all these bells and whistles that the cable above has)
Yes, but it’s really hit or miss which ones work/don’t. Here’s the one I currently have running without issue: USB 3.0 Switch Selector 4 Port... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6V2V1KX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use a ...
ACASIS Powered USB Hub,16 Ports USB 3.0 Data Hub
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Adapter-Individual-Switches-Computer/dp/B07G8S324L
And never have any problems
I am running ...
3 -- 15 key Stream Decks
1 -- 32 key XL
1 -- Razer Tartarus Pro Gaming Keypad
and several other misc items and don't have any issues
I am using a ACASIS Powered USB Hub,16 , Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8S324L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
I use this hub fully loaded it works fine with the 32. It has had issues with misc other devices. No Hub design is perfect.
I’d suggest to buy a new 3.0 USB -C to USB-A cable. I had so many “no signal” issues with the original cable. I ended up buying another 3.0 cable on Amazon and it works every time.
Here’s the link: HD60s Cable 3.0 USB-C to USB-A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T87913B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hi!
- It was connected to a USB hub but I tested this with just connecting the Wave3 directly to my PC. No difference at all in the behavior. Furthermore when the mic is not connected via USB to the PC and the Wave Link application is running the computer is automatically going into sleep modus. (Hub model is: Ugreen https://www.amazon.nl/UGREEN-USB-Voeding-Poorts-Hub/dp/B06Y1WX3CK )
- Not tested yet on a different pc, will test tomorrow and report back.
[Same on the Mac. Figured a USB-C cable with a switch is the only solution. The problem is that most of those can only deliver power (no data). Except the one from Osbot ✨ ]https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09WH8BFDB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_sharehttps://i.imgur.com/b3vodla.jpg
I think Switch may have the HDCP issue too like PS3 output does where you can't turn it off. The only option is split the signal as HDCP will only travel to 1 out of the 2 devices being split. I ran the one output to my tv and the other to my HD60x and it started working in the 4k utility. I'm not sure what options there are for getting one in Hong Kong but the one I got was by Orei from Amazon. Orei HDMI Splitter
No problem, here's the one I bought.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B089FV33QX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
bare in mind that while this did immediately seem like it fixed the problem, it was a very quick test, so I haven't had the chance to put it through it's paces yet.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dev47apps.droidcam&hl=en_US&gl=US
I think this is as good as we get on Android
Yeah, you'll need one of these HDMI splitters to do the trick. Specifically the one I linked though, because the other ones I've tried I've had mixed results with. This works well with any other system that has HDCP too.
Howdy!
So I went a little overboard on cables and got Thunderbolt 4/USB4. USB3 10Gbps would be ample for these devices, I'm just silly like that.
Of your devices, the two capture cards (HD60X and CamLink 4k) are the two that need bandwidth and their own ports. Technically, if you had Thunderbolt 3/4 hub there is enough bandwidth, but those are like $400 and hard to find in stock. The Stream Deck and Snowball should be fine behind a USB3 hub as long as it is externally powered. Notice my USB3 hub is quite large, but externally powered so all devices get what they need. With your MacBook Pro you have 3 USBC ports, so one each for the video capture cards, and you'll need a good hub for the Stream Deck and Snowball. You might be able to get away with an unpowered hub with just those two devices. On the MacMini, you can plug your two capture cards into the USBC ports and the Stream Deck and Snowball into the USBA ports, if you don't have additional peripherals.
Just so you know, disabling HDCP will make it so you can’t steam movies/shows or music on your console, but if you still want to use it as a video player along with gaming, then get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D9BCX1R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s been working great for me and I just disable HDCP whenever I want to record and then turn it back on when I’m done.
Didn't get any answers. But, just in case someone comes across this via Google or something, I did a bunch of extensive testing and Googling and I think I found the answer.
I'm using an HDMI to DisplayPort cable. The capture card DOES NOT like that. You have to have an "Active DisplayPort to HDMI" adapter.
Something like this will do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/
As the picture shows, this is my current setup/connections. I have this HDMI switcher; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SYHQ2PS
I tested the HDMI switch with all my peripherals and had no problems so I know that the switch works. However, when I plug the ElGato in, OBS only sees the output if the PC input (channel 1) is selected. As soon as I change the inputs, OBS goes black and sees nothing else. Can anyone help me? Is this not possible?
I am also wondering, if the HDMI switch is not a possibility, how do I connect the ElGato to my Xbox or Nintendo Switch to stream through OBS?
Howdy!
I have a similar setup but do not use a Thunderbolt hub. Instead, I replaced the USB A to C cables with straight USB C cables (Or USB3 B to USB C for the USB hub). Depending on any other unlisted peripherals, you may be able to save yourself some money.
How my ports are set up:
- Thunderbolt 1 - LG Monitor
- Thunderbolt 2 - Elgato FaceCam
- Thunderbolt 3 - Elgato HD60X
- Thunderbolt 4 - Startech USB3 Hub (Stream Deck, peripherals and random other USB stuff)
- USB3 1 - Elgato Wave XLR
- USB3 2 - Currently open
This has worked well for me so far, and cables are a lot less expensive than a Thunderbolt dock. Hope this helps.
Hey I actually bought a very expensive Anker cable and it's not working...are you seeing any reason that this cable shouldn't work
Get a PCIe Riser. Can mount it wherever if it doesn't fit.
https://www.amazon.com/ELUTENG-Adapter-Capacitors-Powered-Extender/dp/B09HHGGRLP/ref=sr\_1\_3?keywords=pcie+riser&qid=1657888573&sprefix=pcie+ri%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-3
You will likely also need to set up IFTTT to work with the smart plug. Make sure that smart plug WORKS with IFTTT as well before going out and just buying any random one.
Luckily on the IFTTT they have a few of these commands already pre-made for certain devices: https://ifttt.com/search/query/Turn%20off%20smart%20plug
This will likely mean that you'll have to google how to setup IFTTT as it's not as simple as the rest of the Streamdeck plugins. It does require a bit more work.
If you have an available PCI-E slot, you could add more USB slots if you really don't have many to work with.
Something like this. I know it's a 70$ card, but if you want to be SURE of the highest speeds and compatibility for devices, you'll want to get it.
This adapter is on sale right now super cheap and works like a charm for me when streaming retro. Works well with my HD60S+
RCA to HDMI Converter, Amtake... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJTR9KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
yeah, sadly the HD60 S/S+ are possibly the WORST capture cards for retro capture because they really heavily limit what upscalers you can use.
If you don't mind the capture looking like absolute garbage (like, 'I captured this off of a VHS tape' levels of garbage), there's always those cheap Chinese composite-to-HDMI adapters.
Switching ports is a good idea. I just tried it, but it didn't work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N5XKGJZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the USB C cable I purchased for my Facecam. It has worked. I remembered that my laptop updated yesterday evening as well so It could be related to the OS update and not either the mic or camera. I'm just unsure where to start since my camera had previously been working perfectly, but it is now not working and the mic is only partially working.
First - try shifting which ports you're using on the Macbook itself - IE plug the Wave (via the monitor's hub) into the left side and the Facecam into the right. Some ports will share a single USB bus so it's possible you're overloading the bandwidth of it.
Second - I don't personally own a Wave, but as you mentioned the Facecam does not like being plugged into a hub (in your monitor) - maybe that's causing some unexpected issues?
Last note - Unfortunately and confusingly USB-C only refers to the shape of the connector and not the particular capabilities of the cable itself - so in short not all USB-C cables are created equally. These devices require USB3 and data transfer obviously (as supposed to charge only cables) so you'll need a cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYT7M
Not familiar with the Retron but one thing is, if it is an HDCP issue then you can try using a splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/OREI-HDMI-Splitter-Out-Duplicate/dp/B005HXFARS. The PS3 has HDCP that cannot be turned off but using that exact model splitter it strips the HDCP from the signal and I can use PS3 through a capture card. Also don't know about the HD60X but in the 4k capture utility is there settings to change the edid? If there is you could try playing around with them
I had the same problem and called Elgato. The guy said he didn't know what the flashing lights meant (he said it's a pretty new product)... but through trial end error, we figured out it was the USB cable I was using. He recommended THIS Amazon Basic cable to me... but I ended up going to the Apple Store and picking up a Thunderbolt cable. I guess a lot of the USB-C cables out there aren't capable of delivering enough data -- so it's gotta be a new generation one. When I plugged in the new cable, no more red lights -- seemed to fix everything for me. Good luck~
Sorry, I ended up having to order a longer cable so it took a bit more time to arrive but now it works great! I’ve not had any problems with the camera powering up or running a stable image. Here’s the link to the cable I ordered. ☺️
I was getting flashing red lights, too... For me, it was the actual USB c cable I was using... I ended up getting a Thunderbolt cable from the Apple Store, and that solved my problem... The Elgato Tech Support guy suggest THIS Amazon Basic cable.
He said, "The key thing to look for is a cable that is capable of up to 5 or 10 Gbps of data."
Thought, for you, it might just be the USB hub you're using...
USB 3.0 or C cards though i doubt could do it. Just the limitations of USB vs PCIe.
I tried a bunch if different bluetooth transmitters so i could used my bluetooth earbuds and while maintaining the physical volume and mute controls on the Wave XLR. After a lot of unsuccessful attempts, this one works like a charm:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086CYS884?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Connect the Avantree device to the 3.5mm on the Wave XLR, pair your headphones with the Avantree, and you're good to go!
Why Steamdeck? I‘m using the Num-Pad for example - you can also look for stuff like this:
Vaydeer Einhand Makro Mechaniktastatur Multifunktionale mechanische Tragbare Mini Gaming Tastatur mit 9 programmierbaren Tasten und Einstellbarer Makrotastatur Kompatibel mit Mac OS, Windows, Vista https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08V1LZ128/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_71BYDPGN0R297ZRGPCX9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 There are many things like this, where you can set the buttons to F13 - F24 (usually not used on a keyboard) to not accidentally use a button you need for your game. And it is definetly cheaper, although not as flashy and needs more preparations.
Does it have to be a tripod? I almost feel like it'd be easier with a C-stand and one of these. It's been a Loooooong time since I used a C-stand and never in this sort of application so I'm not totally sure if it'd work for you but it's worth a look if you don't already have a tripod or are willing to spend a bit more
You need a USB 3.0+ Type C to Type A. USB is a mess.
Elgato USB cables are definitely not 10 feet long; they are 2M which is 6.5 feet and what they deem as the ideal length.
Spec wise this one should work and the seller claims it will work with the HD60S.
Your best bet would be getting one of the internal Elgato capture cards like the Elgato 4k60 Pro. I don't own one yet, so somebody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but since it's internal it's supposed to have zero latency (meaning no input delay on the capture preview). That way, you could view it either on your PC or via HDMI Out.
Yeah, That is a good observation and I think you are right because everything else seems to be set up correctly except having to have an adapter cable. I will get this and see if it does the trick as you said. Thank you,
I'll let you know how it works.
Antec Gaming Series Three Hundred Two Mid-Tower PC/Gaming Computer Case with 9 Tool-Less Drive Bays, 2 SSD, 120/140mm Fans x 2 Pre-Installed, 4 Fan Mounts for ATX, M-ATX and Mini-ITX,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TVQTHW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_TT3RA09R0FRAH305NX0J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just picked up this cable from Amazon.ca (sorry, not sure of the link in USA). It's a Fasgear 5A 100W USB-C to USB-C 90-Degree Cable - and it works PERFECT! Link below :) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08FY32M1Q/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_EMVPQZ428A90BP6J1K59?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
actually yes.
i am using dolby digital 5.1 surround sound for now which is okay for me. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B088ZNLDQC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Z0Q0GNX445F96QF4QKRR
this device takes the sound from spdif and converts and even decodes it from DD5.1 to pcm 2.1.
I use a cinch to 3.5mm jack to feed the sound to my soundcard in my pc.
it works perfectly fine for me. i do not have any loss anymore due to the fact that i am using surround sound... before this device, the capture card f.e. wouldn't be able to pick up noises from the rear speakers f.e. (when using lpcm 5.1 or higher... using dd5.1 or any other dolby format resulted in contant crackling.. because these are encoded formats - not anymore with the device linked above)
i haven't seen a device that does that and re-feeds it to hdmi unfortunately... but on the other hand, it's not really needed if everything is set up correctly.
Do you have a splitter because you have other consoles? Or because you're referencing this method? Because you will need a splitter such as this (I'd go with this exact one) to make the work with a PS3. I have an HD60S+ and I am using an HDMI splitter as well (because of other consoles) and have the OREI splitter specifically for the PS3 and it works perfectly.
Usually, new Elgato products end up at PC Case Gear in Melbourne first it seems. You can check in on their site, they're actually pretty good about keeping the anticipated arrival dates of products up to date once they get a listing for something.
If you can't wait to order it and are happy to get one delivered in a few weeks, Amazon Australia has a listing with Prime.
Could be the USB cable is broken. I had to replace mine after the insides got exposed. Caused a lot of video and audio issues. I would try replacing the cable. this one might do the job
This is the one I use : Portable Stereo Ground Loop Isolator - 3.5mm / 1/8'' Female Stereo Audio Input/Output, Compatible Model, Eliminate Engine Noise, Compact & Designed for Use w/ Same Audio Players - Pyle PLGI35T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_12SK1VQRZ5EAFGR0TWP0
Plenty of other ones out there.
I have the same problem with Signal for Desktop 5.23 on Windows 10 21H1...
https://signal.org/en/download/
Still no fix?
Is a fix included in Windows 10 21H2?
This one works fine
IXTECH Boom Arm - Adjustable 360° Rotatable Microphone Arm - Sturdy Stainless Steel Mic Arm Desk, Table Stand - Foldable Scissor Arm - Stable Microphone Mount Arms for Radio Studio, Podcast, Gaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097Z467CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_8B3S6G38NVD6JXGBMQ7H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used this one for a time, but I found it easier just to move one cable between my PS4 and Switch than it was to use the switch. No it doesn't support 4K so if that's a deal breaker you'll need the HD 60 4K.
The splitter I bought should work for you too because there's a slider on it that lets you select 4k, 1440p, and 1080p downscaling. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TVSBL7H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i got the besign one off amazon and it has good ratings but idk maybe it just doesn’t work?
I had the same issue initially. I finally got it to work using a combination of QuickTime (File > New Movie Recording > Select HD60S+ next to red record button) and this adapter. Plugging into any other dock/cable resulted in freezing for me.
In my experience, it's picky about cables. I'm not familiar with the one you posted but in theory, if it's USB3 it should work. I have also heard this one works, but I don't have any personal experience with either.
Same setup here. The Game Capture HD software supposedly doesn’t support M1 Macs so I use QuickTime. File > New Video Recording then select capture card as source. I also had lots of connection issues until I used this adapter.
I use an older version of this EZCOO 4x2 matrix switch with 4K60 Pro Mk2 and it works great with Xbox One X, PS4 Pro and PC. I route one output to a 4K monitor and the other routes to an HDMI 4K splitter that outputs to another 4K monitor and my elgato capture card which passes thru to an OLED 4K TV. It all works great at 4:4:4 chroma in 4K 60Hz with HDR.
Not a switch but I’ve had success with this product:
HDMI Matrix Switch 4x2, 4K HDMI Matrix Switcher Splitter 4 in 2 Out Box with EDID Extractor and IR Remote Control Support 4K HDR, HDMI 2.0b, HDCP 2.2, 4K@60Hz, 3D, 1080P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0814L36PV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_13P9YVHFRM4FJSKVZ7Y1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Easily acts as a switch with 4 inputs. I use one of the outputs to go to my TV and use the secondary output to go into my recording hardware. It doesn’t produce any latency from what I can tell and supports a wide range of devices thanks to being able to manually adjust the EDID with the dip switches.
You might need to upgrade your HDMI Cables. I recommend Ultra HDMI to be sure with 48 Gps like these. (I have a 4k60 Pro that I run from in a 2 PC setup)
You have to run HDMI to HDMI. You can't use HDMI to Display port. That is your problem.
Also, make sure that your HDMI Cables are Ultra HD 8k that will do 4k at 120 with 48 Gps Something like this:
Are your speakers plugged into the jack on the back of the Wave mic?
Check if "Listen to this device" is turned on in widows audio options
​
https://winaero.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Windows-10-Listen-to-this-device.png
I would love more info on this too. I've had DisplayFusion for years and honestly never realized I could do scripts with it until you mentioned it. I would love to play with it more.
I found this resource: https://www.displayfusion.com/ScriptedFunctions/
But I would be curious if what you are using is in that list or if you did something a little different to have it work with StreamDeck. Thanks again for the help!
>anyone knows what can I do?
To verify that it's an Hardware issue and not again related to the broken piece of shit Software that Elgato is giving out you should install either OBS and/or XSplit and then see if you are experience an similar issue with the Capturing of any Gameplay Footage.
If it's the same result afterwards -> Either demand an replacement from the vendor you bought it from or get in contact with the Elgato Support to request an replacement unit.
Exact same issue here. Dock didn’t perform well, USB-C cable was laggy. I ended up using one of these plugged directly into MacBook and haven’t had an issue since
You basically need something to move the audio to an optical output, which can then input to the Goxlr.
I'm using this one, which was easy to set up and really no issues. HDMI out to this device, then hdmi from it to capture card, optical cable from this device to the goxlr.
ASTRO Gaming HDMI Adapter for Playstation 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F2HKLB3/
I've contacted the Elgato support and we went through extensive debugging. Their conclusion was that the dock and USB-C to USB-A adapter I was using, wasn't a real USB 3.0 adapter.
They recommended me to either get a real Thunderbolt to USB-A 3.0/3.1 adapter, or a proper Thunderbolt dock - mine was/is a USB-C dock, which apparently doesn't have enough bandwidth for all the devices I've connected to it.
In the end I've let my CamLink connected to my gaming PC and "just" stream a full screen cam image via OBS with the NDI plugin to another instance of OBS, which runs a virtual webcam. It's working fine for most apps, though some don't recognize my virtual webcam as a valid webcam unless you're using a browser-based client (like Slack via Slack.com).
I wasn't really in the mood to spend more money at this moment to get a proper dock. I'm still hoping that with a proper dock I can use the CamLink everywhere. Until then my workaround is "sufficient" for now.
The Wave 3 is a condenser mic. Condenser mics are infamous for picking up a lot of background noise. I had a similar issue. I tried everything but ended up switching to a dynamic mic as they are far better at not picking up background noise. (I use Samson q2u but any dynamic mic helps) with an Elgato Wave XLR.
The Wave 3 is a condenser mic. Condenser mics are infamous for picking up a lot of background noise. I had a similar issue. I tried everything but ended up switching to a dynamic mic as they are far better at not picking up the background noise. (I use
i had to get this from amazon to stop that from happening: Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5BDQMAXJEBFN62CGF8T4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
works like a charm
FebSmart 2 Ports USB 3.0 Super Fast 5Gbps PCI Express (PCIe) Expansion Card for Windows Server, XP, Vista,7,8,8.1,10 PCs-Build in Self-Powered Technology-No Need Additional Power Supply (FS-U2-Pro) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P5C6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MKV1JT67P9K7DHEHV6KM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Btw, this worked. I also emailed Elgato support about it. They’ve asked me to reinstall ExpressVPN to see if Stream Deck still breaks after that but I can’t risk not having it working when I stream consistently.
Quick question: would a 20 gbs cable be better here?
Found that one on Amazon and I thought it might be better but wanted to double check
Not a facecam owner, but am a Mac user with both intel and apple silicon systems. Looking at the Facecam specs it’s just a usb 3.0 rated devices with a type c port, so I imagine the same type of c to c cable I use with my Logitech Brio should work and give you full functionality with the facecam:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083JQR7TR
These are the same cables I use with my HD60 S+ and various other devices that support 5-10gbps speeds, works great with everything.
Which Motherboard are you using?. Something tells me that you should be fine but i want to be sure and would need to know which motherboard you are having in your Build.
If you don't know how to look it up you can use an tool like CPU-Z for it.
The third register in CPU-Z (Mainboard) does show the information that we would need to be able to help you.
Restream.io is a service that allows you to stream to multiple end points (Facebook, YouTube, Twitch, Periscope, etc) with a single feed (ex: OBS). Not exactly sure what you are trying to accomplish, could you explain further?
Try the one called droidcam I used the pro version to use the camera in 1080x60 it give me the option for any of the cameras at the back area of the phone, it does has some development tool being going on atm because the release http://www.dev47apps.com made does use a single camera (depending on your selection) and the obs camera beta release looks like it does use all the cameras at the same time cleaning your hdmi output of the phone camera if that make sense, the pro version its great and has several options but if you open the log viewer, it does say how may Ms are added to the delay in your particular setting
Hope it helps you!
Hey u/WhaleBoi3000, which software are you using to record? Based on the warning message, you may need a video player that supports it. Have you tried using VLC to view them?
Elgato only encode and stream the game that's why it needs less bandwidth or resources. But since XSplit uses more resources than Elgato and added with other sources like webcamera or overlays it needs more bandwidth to broadcast all of the sources.
But, can you try using "3GB-Aware" for XSplit Broadcaster this is the guide: https://www.xsplit.com/blog/xsplit-broadcaster-memory-usage
Yeah I have heard that was the issue. I definitely plug a lot of device into my computer. I was also thinking I could try something like this as it's a cheaper initial investment
Look. Buy the HD60+ you won't regret it. Zero lag. Use your monitor to loop back the game play. Just incase you get lag. Set it up as a source in OBS. And if you are capturing switch pick up this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X6KDQ98?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
So you can upscale to 1080p. If you have a ps4 pro or ps5 the capture software has a toggle to allow 60fps.
It's worth it and just go on Amazon and see how fluid it is in the reviews.
For anyone wondering, this HDMI Splitter Scaler does EXACTLY what I needed! It allows me to have the PS5 output 4K to my main monitor while simultaneously outputting 1080p to the HD60 Pro card installed in my computer.
PremiumCord USB-C to USB 3.0 Connection Cable 2 m, Data Cable SuperSpeed up to 10 Gbit/S, Quick Charge up to 3 A, USB 3.1 Generation 2 Type C Plug, Colour: Black, Length: 2 m https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07TSF8CQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EM0B6JZGWDG7Z1W16QMS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, this one.
In any length
A few things to try before you buy anything. In both the Elgato software and OBS what is the source audio level set to? If it is at 100 then try turning it down to 60-70. If the crackle is caused when the audio peaks this might stop it. In PS3 Audio Output settings, choose HDMI and then choose Manual and have a look at what is ticked in the check boxes and try unchecking all the 5.1 options leaving only Linear PCM 2 Channel selected. Or even try selecting AAC as well. Or just having a fiddle around with those output settings. What are you using to strip the HDCP from PS3? While whatever you were using might have worked fine with your old Elgato HD, it may just be a compatibility issue with the HD60 Pro. If the sound is more of a static hiss than a crackle that might be a HDCP problem. I have a PS3 and HD60 Pro and I use this to bypass HDCP and have no problems with video or audio.
I am trying to picture what you setup is like but I am drawing a blank. Here is what I did in order to get my console sound perfect with no lag/desync issues. All of my PC sound is connected directly into my Wave XLR via 3.5mm audio cable. Since I play on a PC monitor I have a 3.5mm audio cable running from the back of my monitor into a 3.5mm audio splitter which is this one :
That splitter that I linked goes directly into my Wave XLR 3.5mm audio port which then allows me to control the volume with the Wave Link software. I would draw a diagram but I am not that skilled.
Basically anything that I want to be controlled and heard via the Wave Link software with no audio issues will go through that audio splitter. It goes like this :
3.5mm audio cable from PC monitor > Audio Splitter > Wave XLR. I hope that by describing my setup helped you in some way.
Reading is hard and I'm bad at it today. You can probably use a mini-male to mini-male cable to connect the two PCs. On the gaming PC set the Wave Link stream mix to the "speakers" (which will be the cable), then on the streaming PC you should get an input from the cable.
this Sabrent one from Amazon. I used to have more things connected to it (pre Stream Deck) but I got tired of having so many peripherals attached and eliminated several.
Hi, thanks a lot for the reply. It's just for a basic setup so I was thinking of something like this & this but I'm unsure that stand will take the full weight as it seems like it's pushing the limits when extended. Am I at least on the right track with these two? Apologies for the insanely basic questions.
Key Lights have 4 1/4'' holes (dead center on all 4 sides).
Most tripods will work for that just fine and you will be able to control the height of the light easily. That being said, you'll probably not be able to tilt the light in any way or form plus you have to account for the size of the tripod legs.
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To control the tilt you can easily get a tiltable camera head (tripod -> head -> light). Something like that has an okay price (videography is expensive in general :( ) or look for a cheap Chinese alternative if money is an issue; the light is very light (lol) so just about anything will be okay (as long as you can tighten it so it stays perfectly still).