What are /r/hotas' favorite Products & Services?

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You can use as many input devices as your root controller(s) can handle. I currently have 3 mice, 2 keyboards, HOTAS, Pedals, flight button box, 1 racing wheelbase, racing Pedals, driving button box, and a VR Headset.

It doesn't take much to eventually get a windows error relating to having no more USB resources. If you do the easiest way to fix it is to simply buy a USB PCIE Card. This one is particularly useful as each USB slot has its own USB root controller. Compared to your motherboard which will have one, maybe two root controllers for all USB ports.

I just couldn't bring myself to spend +$200 on a chair or desk mount for my X52 Pro and building one probably would have cost a lot less but probably would have looked tacky, so I found this elegant solution on amazon and it works perfect. The only alteration I had to make was to unthread the VESA mount to change its orientation 90 degrees up. Add some tiny and thin double-sided tape and viola! The best part is that it folds away along the backside of the armrests when not in use.

Universal VESA Pole Mount

Double-sided Tape

Hope this helps someone out.

Here is the direct amazon link for those that don't want to go through twitter:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-HOTAS-Warthog-Flight-Stick/dp/B00CBVHJ00/

Thrustmaster is down to $99.99 at Amazon now. Best price I have ever seen it: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532931807&sr=8-1&keywords=thrustmaster+16000&dpID=41FobH-77SL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

That works too but this is more of a permeant solution, the lube they recommend is this.

Lmao the TWCS is in the frequently bought together suggestion on that lube.

Amazon.

The stick is about as far from "extremely accurate" as you can get.
It has a massive deadzone which you cannot remove, plus it reports as 8-bit (only 256 possible positions), whereas the T.16000M reports as 16-bit (256x more accurate), although I think it is 15-bit or something internally - but it is still orders of magnitude better for not that much more money.
But as a budget stick, IMHO it is still the best entry-level product.

If you want to be able to easily bind keys etc to the buttons of the device, see 3rd party apps like my own UCR or JoystickGremlin

+1

Without entering into detail one could also get more out of his/her button by learning/discovering how to use Sequence, Tempo, Multi-Tap. Work with the 3 state of buttons which are OnPress, OnHold, OnRelease.

JoyToKey provide all these feature and is FREE, plus it doesn't require Vjoy. So we can use it on top or at the place of our already existing setup.. GREAT to start learning all these things. To go deeper I would advise AutoHotKey.

Bro stop looking at Amazon and go to MyPilotStore or Sportys Pilot Shop. Amazon is crap for mainstream flight gear prices at least 9/10 times this last year.

However these are fairly priced if you need something that isn't filled with animal hair after returning those.

I almost went down this route myself (with plasticine). It seems an obvious mod to add heft to various sticks and throttles.

Some concerns I had were:

• Will the clay become gunky or ooze over time
• Will it somehow damage the electronics eg. causing overheat
• Will the base spring take the extra operating weight (eg. On my CH Fighterstick)

I used wheel weights to add weight to the CH base - probably not needed on the NXT.

The mount for the stream deck is 3d printed, I bet you could find one on Thingiverse. But Monstertech sells them as well. I haven't found any good sources for 3d printing here in Norway, so I bought them instead.

It is a usb "graphic card" so it plugs in to the pc with usb 3 and outputs HDMI like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ABLEWE-Graphics-Converter-Projector-Compatible/dp/B07TT6WZ7V/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=usb+to+hdmi&qid=1622694338&sr=8-4

I did not find the same brand or type I used, bought them locally but work. You only need 600x800 or something for them to look good.

What is the price?

Here is the amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Joystick-Throttle-Hand-Control-Game-Device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543739372&sr=8-1&keywords=J-PEIN+Steel+Desk+Mount

Which is actually an average price on Amazon:

http://camelcamelcamel.com/Saitek-X52-Flight-System-Controller/product/B000LQ4HTS?context=browse

Could you please learn to lmgtfy.com and stop flooding this subreddit with easily researched questions? Your enthusiasm is great, but spam is spam.

"Dry clutch" adjusted for helicopter use:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOx6RiCqoDe1QlnJewQjuHhbc6kFv1Y8BmWnlVdnYeiHa3QPtCgiqxIbGu_WFnm5w/photo/AF1QipNaEEKC3pVUEn8U6aJ7H8uRhk8Hs_QFJkFm4nvN?key=WWtpUTZEX29RR1ZJbjluc1doVWg1eHh0d0gxUHRR

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPCG1KD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I used two of those, mounted to pieces of 1.25" galvanized pipe mounted under the table top. I have a few other posts here from the past week or so talking about the build. I will also be putting out a pretty full log including all the hardware I used.

I wouldn't spend that much on the screens. I bought 3 of these https://www.amazon.com/Monitor-TFT-LCD-Computer-Channel-Security/dp/B07TS5FKJ6/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=8+inch+monitor&qid=1620248930&sr=8-10

They work great.

Amazon actually sells some combination drill/thread/countersink bits that fit well in standard hand drills. Here is an example product:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B7K9DQJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They wont last long for a professional, but for occasional hobbyist use they work fine. Lubricant helps. Rapid Tap is the usual go-to, but failing that, you can use WD-40, or even water and dish soap (insert clean cut pun).

Just clamp the extrusion to a workbench or table, align the drill tip with the center hole on the extrusion, and go in at medium speed until the drill starts to stall a bit, reverse to back out a bit, forward again, and repeat to the desired depth. The countersink portion of these bits aren't that great in aluminum though, so I'd stop before you approach that portion of the bit.

Hope this helps if you run into a thread cutting situation in the future :0

-Foxx

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Looks like Foxx has expanded his line a bit! I haven't seen these posted yet, so my apologies if everyone is sick and tired of gear photos.

The UFC is a Koolertron Single-Handed Programmable Mechanical Keyboard - $70 on Amazon in USA. I had some spare keycaps and printer the text on a sheet of sticker paper.

Hotas = VKB Gunfighter Pro + TMW grip and the TMW Throttle. MCG Pro should be here Friday too. I guess it is upgrade week for me...

Everything else should look familiar.

If you're willing to wait a few months, I bet there will be some people selling stuff they bought for FS2020 and don't use anymore. And for everybody saying you can't get that for 300 USD, I'm not so sure...

Here's the T flight one for 80 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-HOTAS-One-Ace-Combat/dp/B07H1Z3W3D/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=tflight%2Bone&qid=1600412639&s=videogames&sr=1-4&th=1

So that's your stick and throttle sorted, then get the pedals of your choosing with the remaining 220 bucks :/

I should probably disclose that I've built 3 HOTAS chairs myself, ranging from a super-quick bodge on a dining chair to this

https://www.patreon.com/posts/4170403

Hey Warthog pilots! I finished my training video, in full HD! You can now follow along with my new Pilot tutorial using the Solarfly Warthog Profile from http://3dpipeline.net. Cheers!

Regarding compatibility, now that we have HidGuardian, mixing devices from different manufacturers is no longer an issue.
Simply use an app such as UCR or Joystick Gremlin to read your stick and throttle and output to virtual stick(s), then hide the physical sticks from games using HidGuardian / WhiteKnight.
Currently UCR is limited to 6 axes, 32 buttons, but I have a new version in the works (Should be out by xmas) that does not suffer from these limitations.

You should check camelcamelcamel before making Amazon purchases: http://camelcamelcamel.com/Saitek-X52-Flight-System-Controller/product/B000LQ4HTS

You can see there that the X52 Pro regularly goes lower then $160, but if you want it now then it's not a bad price. I picked up mine for around $140 on Amazon.

I write an alternative to Joystick Gremlin called UCR

This system will eventually be rolled into UCR.
AFAIK Joystick Gremlin only supports joystrick as input and vJoy as output, whereas UCR supports keyboard / mouse / joystick / vJoy / Titan One (Can output to Consoles)

It's called a Y cable. Older external USB 2.5" hard drives used to be power hungry and came with this cable. Usually PC USB A ports are meant to ouput only 900mA, so two ports will get you only to 1.8A = 9W of power.

Better option: SpaceDesk does the same thing, but over WiFi. You could power the tablet using its wall charger and run it indefinitely.

I use this one. Vkb gunfighter, gladiator, and rudders. No issues.

Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, iPhone 7, 6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy Series, Mobile HDD, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AAE0FJCRMTEJZ15YE929

I received my x56 in December and have really enjoyed it. I picked up some mounts on Amazon which really helped.

J-PEIN (Upgraded): the desk mount for the flight sim game joystick, throttle and hotas systems. Fully support almost all of flight sim game hand-control devices. (not include game-device) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ZhMaGbTNM2CF3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I play Elite Dangerous mostly. I’m considering getting Microsoft Flight Simulator.

I’d suggest going with these mounts. They are much cheaper, and come with everything you need to mount a warthog. No additional accessories needed.

They are also available through Amazon so you won’t have to pay for crazy international shipping. I owned these prior to upgrading to VKB Mounts, and can say that they get the job done.

Edit: Check out all the photos on the page I linked you. They show both the Warthog Stick and Throttle mounted on them. $130 for 2 mounts is a fucking awesome deal.

The best I've been able to find is this doc: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71a8WBq01pS.pdf

Which you can find linked on the amazon product page: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Saitek-Flight-Rhino/dp/B01LX398IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491692701&sr=8-1&keywords=x56

Which says: > Valid warranty claims are generally processed through the point of purchase retailer during the first thirty (30) days after purchase.

Mine shorted out about four months after purchase. I was denied RMA because I was out of the warranty period.

Some of the parts you want are on Amazon.com.
For instance, here is the clamp that Monstertech uses on its desk mounts.
https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-T24248-Inline-Toggle-Clamp/dp/B007UM56YG

The main problem is that many of the names are different on your side of the pond.

The key words you want with Amazon are
aluminum profile
T slot extrusion

Also include the cross-section dimensions you want: 80x40, 40x40, etc otherwise you end up with 10x10mm makerbeam intended for homebuilt printing arrays.

I don't want to tread on OP's toes here (amazing simpit either way), bass induction is awesome but I think that Buttkickers are quite overpriced.

For my setup I have a hifi amp (Harman Kardon HK6300) running my Alesis point seven studio monitors. The amp had a second set of speaker outputs so I simply plugged in two of these and mounted them to the lumbar support of my chair. Hey presto, stereo bass induction for about £60, which has become absolutely indespensable for everything from movies, to games, to music.

Obviously if you don't have an existing amp you'll need one, but I actually upgraded my amp to two simple 100w digital monoblocks. Buying one of these amps and one of those bass drivers will perform the same as a Buttkicker, but for only around £90. I just bought two for stereo, which still comes out as cheaper than anything Buttkicker does.

There is also CH products pro pedals at $120 USD.

They use old school potentiometers instead of magnetic Hall effect sensors. I have had mine for over a decade. And just this year I had to take it apart and remove the main potentiometer and clean the lint out of it with some spray contact cleaner. It was pretty black. After I reassembled it all my jitter and slow response went away.

They have toe brakes. But, they are a bit narrow.

https://www.amazon.com/Productos-Pro-Pedales-Simulador-vuelo/dp/B0000512IE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ch+pro+rudder+pedals&qid=1595775232&sprefix=CH+pro+&sr=8-2

Mine will be up for auction in Feb, 100% in aid of Special Effect. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP9oE6DwarRCradrhbS-gZOJ7-d8_q4x_aDKM87B5JTKqHtPtCs02h9QBNSihajIg?key=b0k0Qk1lM0p3R21OdDZlNkVLamEzN19scEVOLUl3

Sorry, forgot to add the link to the rod stock I used, this should pound into the print pretty firmly, after a few swivels it moves smoothly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMSRYT5/

Please also notice PRINT ORIENTATION for strength - you want the rods going THRU the layers, since in use that's the primary strain for the cam action. Don't overdo tightening the bolts down that hold these into the profiles, there's a tongue that also sits down into the slot so the bolts are to hold it in position along the slot length, not to keep it from "pulling out of" the slot. I've been using my print for quite a while now and it hasn't split apart on me or lost its ability to pull enough tension that the two vertical extrusions don't move relative to one another when locked in place. I printed with a black (Polymaker?) 'tough' PLA.

(Also just realized I never did go back to Thingiverse to upload a good final picture with the real rods and not just 'grub screws' half-ass holding it together.)

Yep it definitely slips some.

One more option in addition to those already mentioned is rug grip pads, something like this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hold-Plus-Rug-Gripper-58-x-96-Creme/41474548

Between $4-10 on eBay / Amazon / Walmart.

If you want a cheap way to add a device with a bunch of buttons, you could potentially rip apart an old keyboard. You can remap multiple keyboards independently of each other using the AHK script AutoHotInterception or the GUI app UCR.
Or rather than just hacking apart an old keyboard, an arduino with a bunch of buttons set to emulate a keyboard may be easier to arrange around the MFD screen.

Using Saitek SST software, what are the mapping choices you have for that selector? If you can map key shortcut, then you can use Joystick Gremlin or UCR to do what you want.

UJR has been end of life for like 5 years. I have no idea why people still recommend it.

There have been two successors to UJR - UCR-AHK and UCR-C#

Definitely not recommending TrackHat. I've placed an order for the PS3 Eye and a mount a month ago, they messaged me it was shipped after 3 days, it was supposed to get here 2-3 weeks ago, and still nothing had arrived. They didn't even answer my emails.. I'd say their service is shitty, but how can something that's non-existent be shitty. lol they're not even answering my PayPal claim. Gonna get my refund and never make that mistake again.

https://www.trustpilot.com/review/www.trackhat.org?languages=all

Btw, I've ordered my Delanclip Starter on the same day, it arrived fast, no problems at all, Probably should've paid more to also get the rest from Delan.

If you want to swap on-the-fly which stick controls which axis, I am not sure Gremlin will do that for you.
UCR certainly will, see this post I made recently detailing how to set up this kind of thing: https://autohotkey.com/boards/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=39605

It is possible. I used AutoHotKey to do this. I was able to recreate the basic 3 layers + their shift. I did that one or two years ago for the same reason, put away this shitty Warthog's Gimbal and get a GunFighter. Today I would go Joystick Gremlin and/or Universal Control Remapper.

http://whitemagic.github.io/JoystickGremlin/interface/

https://autohotkey.com/boards/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=12249

As well as the other things that people have said, most of which would have been on my list if they hadn't got there first, I recommend Tachyon: The Fringe, Eterium, Crime Cities, Overload, the Wing Commanders, and the Independence Wars (a very different kind of hotas experience, where you're flying what is essentially a corvette, rather than a fighter or bomber, but quite good nonetheless).

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Also, if you want to use your HOTAS on something that is neither a flight sim nor a 6DOF shooter, search around for the old Mechwarrior games. 1 and 2 work on DOSBox, although I'd skip one tbh, while 3 and 4 are early Windows games, with all the pain of getting them working on modern machines that implies, but there are some patched versions floating around out there ready to go. A HOTAS was actually one of the interfaces those games were designed for, and once you set it all up, it works brilliantly.

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With the X-Wing recommendation someone else made, you might want to wait on that one and play the X-Wing Virtual Machine (XWVM) mod, whenever it finally comes out. They're not only updating the graphics, they're also rebalancing some of the missions that were victims of it being the game dev's first flight sim back in '93 (which come in trivially easy, near-impossible, and BORING flavours). Also, keep an eye on Rebel Galaxy Outlaw. It comes out early next year, and looks to be the second coming of Wing Commander: Privateer (since we don't speak of WC:P2).

hey happy to help as far as i can!

deffo need to put the gas on getting the throttle apart - that should be done before you use it at all really! https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/105489-g940-throttle-fix/ for the screw to remove.

also in games like warthunder you'll not notice much at all because, lets be real here, warthunder is not high enough fidelity to matter. when you get into dcs helos you will absolutely notice the issues as you're slamming into the ground over and over while trying to maintain hover.

Looking for something like this: https://www.hackster.io/news/slidebar-a-mechanical-keyboard-slider-7ec42367366b

To be used as a minimalistic throttle for a HOSAK setup. The actual slidebar in the hackster article was a groupbuy from years ago and I can't find anything similar that exists today.

I have an alternate way of hiding the physical stick(s).
Use the HidGuardian / HidCerberus components of ViGEm
I packaged all the required files with my WhiteKnight utility.
You do not actually need the WhiteListing part of WhiteKnight, all you need is the blacklisting part, so just run WhiteKnight, click the two Install buttons to install HidGuardian and HidCerberus, then click the "HidCerberus config page" link at the top, select your warthog stick and throttle and click "Hide".

If you do need an app to be able to see the physical sticks, you can click the "Pick App" button in WhiteKnight to whitelist the app, so it can see the physical sticks.

The whole point of a curve is to make the whole range of the stick still map to a point on the output.
Therefore, you will NEVER be able to do this with a sensitivity curve (If the curve is done right).
What you want is a linear amplification, not a curve.
Either that, or use something like DIView to recalibrate your stick.
FYI, UCR has a linear amplification option.

This is not the best place to go for help, the UJR thread is the place for UJR support.
I would certainly see if UCR solves the problem for you. If it doesn't, let me know on the UCR thread and I will see if I can fix it.

Rocket league (Last time I played) only works properly with XBox controllers. The reason axes behave strange is because the XBox has trigger axes which rest at one end - so the game misinterprets the axis on your stick (Which all rest in the middle).
If you want to simulate an XBox controller with your T.16000m, my UCR app will do that for you. Be sure to read the bit at the start of the post detailing how to set up XBox emulation.
I have personally used a T16000.M / FLCS combo with Rocket League, so I know it can be done.
Edit: If you want to use the throttle to control speed, then in UCR, use an "Axis Splitter" plugin to split the throttle axis into two half-axes, and map each half to a trigger.

this + this = Saitek

 

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/StudioWiring.jpg

 

https://pixabay.com/static/uploads/photo/2014/09/30/15/15/gears-467261_960_720.png

Nice! I'd love a Streamdeck!

I will say, for anyone who is after a cheap alternative, someone on this subreddit put me on to Matric which you can use to customise a tablet with buttons and widgets to perform keypresses etc. I think it's free but you have to pay to have multiple pages.

Can be a decent alternative to a streamdeck if you have a crappy old tablet laying around. Personally I'm using a (godawful) Google Nexus tab from forever ago and it works fine. I don't have any association with the creator but wanted to get the word out there for anyone who can't afford a Streamdeck etc, as I'd never heard of it until I scoured these subreddits.

>Anything above 10 keyboards gets ignored completely

Ah, that is news to me. I just unplugged/replugged the Numpad a bunch of times till it's ID was above 10, and sure enough it didn't work (original functions) or get detected by AHKI

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>In addition the keyboard devices are only recognised if they are present before the interception driver loads, if not they all get blocked until your pc reboots.
>
>
so for example if unplug all the devices except for my macro keyboard , then sure the macro keyboard gets recognised all good, if then plug in another usb keyboard, its not recognised until you reboot, at which point the devices get ordered again.

This, is not the case with me. I booted my PC without the Numpad and plugged it in later, and it was recognized just fine. (You are reloading the Monitor script, aren't you?)

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Anywho...if USB devices aren't an option, the only thing left is virtual button box apps on your phone/tablet. I like Matric as it can natively output to vJoy. Tons of similar apps to choose from.

Here you go Bud

J-PEIN (Upgraded): the desk mount for the flight sim game joystick, throttle and hotas systems. Fully support almost all of flight sim game hand-control devices. (not include game-device) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6TVA6JNYS1SS1BVES1KV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Nope, it’s actually from Amazon

CubiCubi Computer Home Office Desk, 63 Inch Small Desk Study Writing Table with Storage Shelves, Modern Simple PC Desk with Splice Board, Brown/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082F1C247/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_98PEY70N7PSHFW254YZA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The shelf that is holding the headphones is separate but the measurements match up

VANSPACE 3 Tier Bookshelf Small Bookshelf with Metal Frame 3 Tier Bookcase, Industrial Bookshelf Storage Rack, Multifunctional Stand Shelf Unit for Bedroom, Home, Office, Vintage Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LR9VWMB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JR7K1CFKBWHDZD53TJWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For DIY you can use linear pots in place of rotary and they will work exactly the same. Something like this would work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/WMYCONGCONG-Potentiometer-Double-Linear-Electronic/dp/B07R3295X3

That will work with any tutorial or library that uses a rotary potentiometer.

When shopping, pay attention to the length of the pot (it can be whatever you prefer but it varies), whether or not it has a cap (again, your choice), and you want to make sure it's a linear pot not logarithmic. The chart here show the difference:

https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/48856/log-vs-linear-pots-and-the-arduino

You could slap together a box with a bunch of sliders and a pro micro for really cheap.

I recently bought a damper off Amazon and installed in on my crosswinds V2. I used this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN8RSL1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It looks identical to the one MFG sells and it just required some hardware from the hardware store and ends up being half the price if you can get a hold of some sort of scrap metal to make an appropriate bracket.

I tried it installed in 2 different locations/configurations. While it was nice, I ended up removing it and I prefer the pedals without it. As others have said, it does what it's suppose to, and adds a certain smoothness/fluid feeling but it also add a minor bit of "stiction" in the neutral position which ultimately I didn't care for.

Also get these cable raceways that can be cut and run underneath your desk to the power strip, they clean everything up nicely and are really nice quality! Good luck man 👍🏻One-Cord Channel Cable Concealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8V7RZ1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Polymer has a slight and consistent resistance to push though. Metals are smoother but louder and you can feel “the grain” of the metal as you roll along it as is metal on metal. I got both and use polymer because is quieter. If you wait, Stefan should have the metals back in shortly - he’s likely waiting in materials. He openly offers that you can easily get the metal ones elsewhere. He used LM8UU linear ball bearing:

uxcell LM8UU Linear Ball Bearings 8mm Bore 15mm OD 24mm Length for CNC Machine 3D Printer 4pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H93T58J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NG0BV56VBR8N4JXE5Y5H?psc=1

Just ordered two of these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y4QSL8M?psc=1&smid=A1Y6JUJBKX8OBS&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

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They are meant for mounting cameras (some people in reviews mentioned it was stable with 1000mm focal length lenses, so it should have literally zero play and be quick release. I'm going to design some files to convert to a VESA mount (if there's no clearly obvious just drill some holes option), and then design a mount to convert the top to VESA or directly to the gladiator NXT. It's tempting to go to VESA since it will make it more compatible with a lot of existing solutions (and I already have an adapter 3d printed to bring it to VESA), but going straight to gladiator NXT would make it lower profile/less hardware.

It's an Alienware AW3418DW on a Amazon Basics monitor arm: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MIBN16O

It's only slightly curved and I love it for work and play (prefer it to having 2 x 24wide at work)

Until decent VR is more accessible without hurting my eyes then I'll be sticking wit hit - Tried various devices in various commercial settings and so far only the varjo xr3 hasn't hurt, but I don't think that's quite in the consumer cost ballpark just yet and can't justify it and would need to wait for the next set of nvidia cards to release to drive it smoothly I suspect

We'll see. ;)

Even if later, I could still see a holiday season release. If not for the electrical detent versions, at least the conventional "Arc Standard" might be ready by then.

However, the TWCS is a good intermediate shout out. Arguably a better interim throttle than any other option. Especially with the slider and/or Nyogel upgrade

The buttons are 3d printed and used along with long foot tactile switches -- regular tactile switches, but instead of 4 short legs that fit a breadboard, these have 2 long legs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0815WDS4D. There's a housing (one of the stls in the thingiverse project) that sits right behind the front panel that holds all of them. It screws down onto the back of the front panel with the switches and buttons sandwiched right between.

Availability of the warthog has been poor for the last year, with everyone in lockdown buying up stock. You may have some luck on the 2nd hand market, or amazon sellers (depending on your region, e.g. UK has it)

Personally though, for that price, I'd recommend going for the VKB Gladiator NXT Premium instead of the Warthog stick. I have the VKB stick at home and use the warthog at work - the Gladiator NXT feels far nicer and has a better compliment of buttons. I have also heard that the parts in the Warthog stick base aren't as high quality as those used by the likes of VKB, Virpil, etc.

it's this one for you and this one for me because I bought mine in japan and for some reason mine has an extra handle. for $96 I knew I had to grab it because usually those things run expensive here.

as others mentioned.. vkb, virpil, winwing.. and you can get them for the warthog too.

edit to add i got this set for my warthog, and it worked well.. also works with winwing and virpil.

https://www.amazon.com/Flight-Extension-Thrustmaster-Warthog-WinWing-Desktop/dp/B08VKXSSDN/

I did take the easy route and ordered this one : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07S2QKD6D

I did not succeed in finding a way to power it with 5V. (aka shutting down of the board). Right now it lights up only when the switch is closed, with (what I think is) the 3V that comes from the button pins.
Not ideal because not super bright, but does the job.

I think the MFDs are Cougar MFDs (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Cougar-Flight-Control-Panels/dp/B002HH9TRY) but I don't know what the thing in the middle is, looks like a keypad addon repurposed into a neat control panel with some custom keycaps replacing the far right row. But I don't know what the thing behind that is. This setup reminds me of the Hornet and I like it.

Ah yes, this was a must for those sharp rail ends, they take bit of work to slide on, but they fit perfectly over them. Almost like they should be included.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MKS2KR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P5XSVEC9YRJKBGTH02T5

I think it's an older version of this And yeah I guess it registers as a generic joystick device or something idk. YIL.

Samsung 49 inch ultrawide

Samsung Double QHD CRG9 Series 49-Inch Curved Gaming Monitor (LC49RG90SSNXZA), Black (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VZ7NCTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9G2MAVZFSTC3GGSTNVBZ

If width is the issue, try cutting some 1/4” plywood or crafting basswood to shape and cover with 4mm Eva foam using 3M #77 adhesive spray or similar. Secure with double sided adhesive tape.

If height is the issue, try one of these secure with double sided adhesive tape:

QIUIU Headband Cushion Pad for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XBOM9QU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Dekoni Audio Nuggets Headphones... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L8MMP6P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Tear down vid: Sadly covers everything but taking apart the slider. Still, mentions it at 14:30 mark, and I think says it’s magnet based. Maybe can disassemble and hit it will a q-tip and some electrical cleaner

https://youtu.be/OYwo5eGzxeI

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Found the Flight Switch Panel too, deeper in.
One of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Saitek-Flight-Switch-Panel-PZ55/dp/B001EYU1WS

I... don't remember buying that o_O

That's a linear potentiometer. Places you can find them: dj mixing gear (DJ Hero controller), any 90s audio gear.

Reading it is an ADC call on a microcontroller.

https://www.amazon.com/Ximimark-Linear-Potentiometer-Module-Analog/dp/B07HNY7VWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=linear+potentiometer&qid=1611877280&sprefix=linear+pot&sr=8-9

Link to one on Amazon.

Thanks for the writeup! This thing does not have an analog hat, is that right?

As for it being too light, I had similar issues with my T16K set, try blue tack on the bottom of the case. Not directly on the rubber feet but near them. Get it pressed down well and the throttle will stick to your desk until you decide to move it, and the blue tack shouldn't leave any residue.

Wouldn’t it be preferable to do something like this, Koolertron Single-Handed Programmable Mechanical Keyboard with OEM Gateron Red Switch,All 44 Programmable Keys Tools Keypad,8 Macro Keys,PBT Keycaps.[SMKD72-C] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LZJ5JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_U78-FbQMXT632?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Since they’re programmable rather than using up the numpad keys

This. I also like using these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SHBMTUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_RJU9FbTWETZ5K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Definitely worth taking the time to disconnect everything and re route all you're cables.

I recently purchased this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JM9ZFFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_FLU9Fb5ZY1NB7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . It works great but you don't need to spend that much money if you don't have that many cables, 6-8 ports hubs can be had for cheaper.

I've clamped down mine with a pair of clamps.

So how much of all this stuff is cross-compatible, just out of curiosity? Like, do you have to stick with one brand once you start, or can you get something like your setup pictured, a different brand of stick, and something like this? Do they all "talk" to the game separately? Or is there some kind of central "brain" that all the peripherals plug into that handles interfacing with the game?

Hope this isn't a dumb question, I'm literally less than 24-hours into this whole world.

Powered USB hub.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can have up to 127 devices plugged into a single usb port on your pc this way. You just keep chaining the hubs.

For slightly cheaper you can get an unpowered hub, but you're really not going to want to do that for more than like 4 connections. And especially not for ANYTHING that has LEDs or is complex like a joystick.

I wouldn't bother. It's crap! :D

However 250 CAD for a HOTAS is...tricky. That's £143. You'd get a budget but okay stick and half a budget but okay throttle in the UK for that!

Your best bet would be the FCS flight pack from the TM but fekk me is it pricey in Canada! https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-663296420732-T16000M-FCS-Hotas/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=thrustmaster+fcs&qid=1606161964&sr=8-2

That's £230! For T16000M and a TWCS. There's normally a bit of an effective discount on the individual items associated with buying that bundle! :D

So frankly, if your budget is utterly maxed out at 250 CAD then I think the HOTAS X is your only choice. It's pretty dreadful and it'll probably break sooner or later unless you're very gentler with it (and even then it'll probably break) but if it's what you can afford then...

Obviously the wise thing is to save up and buy something that will last and will be good quality but you sound in kind of a rush. ;)

Sorry for some harsh reality, but unless you score some nice sales or buy some lightly-used equipment, that's about enough for a chair and a "fair" HOTAS.

I dropped about $200 on a gaming chair and another $200 on an x52 HOTAS on sale, both through Amazon (the sales were months back, now it's going for close to $210 and $325 all after tax).

Only recently did I get back pay from work to afford a Monster Tech chair mount for my HOTAS and that came out to another $200. You're going to need to be flexible on your expectations for your sim situation, but at least you're in the right place for friendly advice. These guys have turned this hobby into an art form. I'm excited to get my Monster Tech in.

My current set up has me using my Quest 1 on Virtual Desktop, Phone in Dex mode with USB Virtual Here, USB-C Dock, and fancy Cloud-PC Technomancy to have a "wireless" Flight Sim chair for Elite Dangerous. Once the chair mount gets in, I'll be able to wheel myself anywhere at home and strap into my rig with a battery mounted on the back of the chair.

Yep:

VIVO Steel Universal Full Motion Pole Mount Monitor Arm with Removable 75mm and 100mm VESA Plate, Fits 17 to 32 inch Screens (MOUNT-POLE01A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083F3RPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_QRYPFbH40ET42?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I had a question about that. It says 2 to 5 weeks, not preorder.. is it the same as a preorder? They have just the throttle on there currently but it says "preorder price guarantee" and lists a release date...

Why doesn't the combined unit say that as well?

Not sure to order it yet or wait till it's an official ship on _____ Amazon preorder.

Here's the throttle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L28LVUG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uAj0xbMEMXTSF

Beach Audio is claiming to have them in stock via Amazon with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1477432971&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=thrustmaster+twcs

You can also get fruitbooters wheels for your chair from amazon (for hardwood and industrial carpet only)

something like this: amazon link

It looks like they are pretty easily available from Amazon US for under five bucks

Prime-Line Products SP 9609 Spring, Extension, 7/16-Inch by 2-Inch - .062 Diameter,(Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RG5CHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dAg7Bb003TS1W

If you can’t figure out another solution send me a private message and I would be happy to buy a couple and then send them up to you

I got them on amazon, just searched for gas springs. They were quite cheap actually.

here's the link

Cheers

I just want to know how much they're going to cost. I estimate I can get the parts to make a pair of knock-off Foxx mounts for around £60 plus half a day's worth of time to put them together. If these mounts are going to be the same price as that or less, then I'd buy them purely to save the time-sink of putting my own together.

EDIT: Scratch that, $88 but not available via Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Joystick-Throttle-Hand-Control-Game-Device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543739372&sr=8-1&keywords=J-PEIN+Steel+Desk+Mount

Yeah, they restock on May 10th at 2 AM Eastern Time. LOL. I just ordered 2 desk mounts from Amazon. These look pretty good, and the base adapter thing comes with them. I'll get them on Monday, so will be able to test them out before the restock on the 10th. If they are not so great, I'll just send em back to Amazon. People seem to like them though, and the price isn't too bad. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was having a similar problem with my Logitech throttle and Honeycomb Yoke until I bought this powered USB hub - <strong>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</strong>

I just got a new USB controller so I can sort out my rats nest of hubs upon hubs to stop the 'out of resources' errors. I have some silicone adhesive cable runners that will hopefully add a tiny bit of sanity to this fire hazard.

Edit: This USB Controller [Model PEXUSB3S44V] has one unique controller per USB 3.0 port meaning if you connect it to some massive fuck off USB hubs you will no longer experience 'not enough resources' errors since you aren't hitting the limits of each individual controller.

Double edit: That is also great for IOMMU breakout in VMs since you can dedicate a port to a controller very easily. This makes unraid/gaming hardware passthrough MUCH easier, esp if you have AMD hardware/bios that supports it natively.

Left is up/down arrow, right is right/left arrow. Each has a press function as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RS4J31/

Sure. Just make sure it's electrical contact cleaner (like Electrical Contact Cleaner ). I used automotive Mass Airflow Cleaner because I happened to have some on hand. You want something safe for electronics that dries quickly and leaves ZERO residue.

This is known as stiction. It can typically be improved by disassembling the joystick base, cleaning off the old grease, and reapplying a higher quality grease. Nyogel 767a is the grease that is recommended most frequently - it is a very high quality product that was formulated specifically for this purpose.

Amazon to the rescue. bessey clamp

I tried a whole bunch of suction cups (even threaded ones that take bolts) and then gave up and got some adhesive Velcro. You can get kinds that aren't that strong if you're looking for a mount that you're going to remove daily.

For my X52 pro for lubricating the cap piece that the spring uses for pressure on the stick I use a product made for fishing reels called reel butter. Been using it for awhile on my fishing equip, and decided to try it on the X52 a bit back, and it had been great.

http://www.amazon.com/Ardent-98423-Reel-Butter-Grease/dp/B001H54MC4

You can have the Warthog stick separate yes. Also, it looks like Amazon.com is selling the throttle.

EDIT: actually read the full post and not just the TL;DR

Hmm. The ones I got are not that bad and do give a secure lock when I clamped them down onto my desk. I mounted my Virpil throttle and Gladiator to them. Good thing about amazon is that you can return them if you dont like them (some of them).

This is the one I bought

https://www.amazon.com/RACGTING-Logitech-Installation-Joystick-Thrustmaster-PC/dp/B0BB1JPLLG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=C93DIE3POKLG&amp;keywords=hotas+desk+mount&amp;qid=1671781158&amp;s=videogames&amp;sprefix=hotas+desk+moun%2Cvideogames%2C289&amp;sr=1-3&amp;ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

Bought these from amazon. Happy with them so far https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIWANGUS-Joystick-Compatible-Thrustmaster-T-Flight/dp/B09VP96GR1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=LL17QSSWLU3N&amp;keywords=hotas+mount&amp;qid=1671778239&amp;sprefix=Hotas+m%2Caps%2C160&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1...