What are
/r/iBUYPOWER's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/iBUYPOWER:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/iBUYPOWER:
HWMonitor
Core Temp
HWiNFO (32/64)
Windows 7
GeForce Experience
Slickdeals
BlueScreenView
EVGA PrecisionX 16
CPU-Z
Windows 10
Open Hardware Monitor
GPU-Z
Winaero Tweaker
Ultimate Boot CD
UNIGINE Benchmarks
The most popular reviews in /r/iBUYPOWER:
Figure out which color switches are best for you and grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Razer-BlackWidow-Tournament-Chroma-Tenkeyless/dp/B075LT1NS1/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=razer+tkl&qid=1626699541&sr=8-4
if youre running multiple monitors, the first using a straight DVI connection and your second monitor only has VGA input, you will need either a
or
Yes. Go download CPUID HW Monitor and depending on what motherboard header your pump power is plugged in, it’ll read as a really high RPM. https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html My pump is plugged into SYS_FAN1 and using that software it’s reading as 2250ish RPM.
This is the item I bought, it’s “shipped AND sold” by Adorama. In this case I don’t think Amazon had a lot to do with it. I’m not trying to point fingers at you guys over Adorama or vice versa, but wires definitely got crossed somewhere and I don’t think it was in Amazon’s warehouse in this instance.
If it’s on Adorama’s side you guys might want to reach out to them about how they treat returns, though.
No, no optical drive. But you can do something like
No. Optical drives are pretty much gone from PCs nowadays but you can get an external DVD reader that plugs into a USB port for like $20 on Amazon
I’ve been using this one for about a year and a half now. I’m 6’4” 240lbs and I’m very happy with it.
Edit: That Amazon link straight up broke Reddit’s formatting on mobile. I tried to fix it but shit was weird, the link should work tho
You can get a new remote from us, or any infrared led remote should work. you can find them on amazon for $5-10. Something like this
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just make sure its IR and the remote looks the same as the one from the trace. There's like 4 different standards so its very likely the remote won't exactly match the colors you are pressing, but if you hit enough buttons you can usually figure out which color is which.
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of course if you get the one directly from us it will work right, its just a little easier to get from amazon or another retailer.
Okay then all you need is to buy your own off amazon and install it.
Or take it in to a shop and let them do it. If you go the shop option Im guessing it will cost about 300 dollars, but if buy and do it yourself it will cost 120 dollars.
We have the exact same specs, and I bought this one (just in case my replacement fails again) https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B079JF6NDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your problem is most likely just the external storage not being fast enough. If it's a recently built PC you probably have m.2 slots on the motherboard. Buy something like this.
Damn, thanks for the info. I think I found the cooler you bought, https://www.amazon.ca/NZXT-Kraken-CAM-Powered-ing%C3%A9nieuse-performance/dp/B079JF6NDC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3VZCZUT2I7F8K&dchild=1&keywords=nzxt+cooler+120mm&qid=1598375674&sprefix=nzxt+cooler%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-2
Curious what your temps are with it? I am assuming I wont need to buy the 240mm like suggested above?
PLEASE! Get your PC off the carpet! Put something under it like a desktop stand so it can BREATHE.
Hi. I ordered this one: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B CPU Air... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NZGH4RD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Haven't installed it yet but I've no doubt it will fit and it works 90-95% as well as the Noctua but costs a lot less. It also looks cooler.
Hey no worries, I def encourage you to shop around though. THE WD 850 x is what i have (2tb version- but i got it for 160 on black friday). There is alot to choose from!
As for the liquid cooler, yea it scares me too, but the reviews seem pretty solid.
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting-Software/dp/B0829S536D?th=1
Im still weary, but I felt like overheating my system/ possibly roasting my cpu is more likely with my gaming/ vr habits. Just do some solid research, and position the cables in a way where if they do leak, its minimal contact with the board.(also def double check your current aio size before jumping on anything here!)
With your GPU and CPU combo, youll wanna stick with water cooling. I really cant tell the size of the cooler yours came with, but look for the same size to fit in your case. Here is an example of one for that cpu!
You also have gen 4 m2 slots(I believe) for your z690 board. This means you can get one of these bad boys, or something like it (shop around and read reviews for preformance)
https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-MZ-V8V1T0B-AM-980-SSD/dp/B08V83JZH4/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=2QCCDSEBEZDGV&keywords=m.2+1+tb&qid=1669824125&sprefix=m.2+1+tb%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-3&ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.fa474cd8-6dfc-4bad-a280-890f5a4e2f90
Update y’all: temps were at 100 degrees Celsius on a 15% load. Will be picking up a new AIO. This one is apparently great. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Liquid-Freezer-RGB-Multi-Compatible/dp/B08WRJ5MQW
IBuyPower, very disappointed in y’all. Spent 2.3k on a PC from you guys because I got a better deal. However, over the last almost 3 years I have spent over 450$ now on new SSD’s, RAM (because your stock one is garbage), and now a cooler. Very disappointed.
if your MB has an analog RGB header (you will see the same 12V G R B labels on it usually) then you can sync this directly to the MB.
You can pick up a Y splitter cable like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Connector-Extension-Computer-Motherboard/dp/B08L4MVV4C
and just connect the pins of the LEDs directly to your MB. The pinouts should be in the same order starting with 12V (there is usually an arrow on the connector to indicate 12V). Luckily for this particular kind of RGB, if you wire it backwards or something, nothing happens, it just doesn't turn on.
There are 2 styles, the other is digital and has 5V D G and is not compatible. Your MB may have both if it is new-ish (last 3-4 years)
If you can tap into that MB header, then you can control the lighting via whatever lighting software your MB uses.
just bought a 2 pac from amazon its a 2 pack of 3 split have 3 exhaust fans and 3 rad fans liked each one is a master the other two on split are slaves worked well for the last month iv had them installed
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8LV1BY?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Take it outside and used compressed air to blow out the dust. Hold the fan blades still when blowing air into them so they don't spin. Either canned compressed air or something like this that isn't disposable.
How much was it? You could probably look into this and might be cheaper? https://www.amazon.com/Stratos-Desktop-i9-13900KF-Processor-Computer/dp/B0BHX856VF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3OURHUFYPD9D2&keywords=cuk+4090&qid=1666255867&sprefix=cuk%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17f26c18-b61b-4ce9-8a28-...
Download NZXT cam and check your cpu and gpu temperatures. I have a similar machine and the water cooler in mine died and my cpu temps were 90-98C. Replaced my cooler and now my temps are under 50C while playing games.
I replaced mine with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WSDLRVP?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079JF6NDC/ref=dp_iou_view_product?ie=UTF8&th=1
This is the one I got when mine failed, I am 99 percent sure we have the same CPU as well
NZXKraken M22 120mm - RL-KRM22-01 - AIO RGB CPU Liquid Cooler -
CAM-Powered - Infinity Mirror Design - Reinforced Extended Tubing - AER
P120mm PWM Radiator Fan (Included) Black
> everything is running terrible
Clarification: by everything do you mean browsing and gaming, or just everything using the internet?
Damage in shipping is always a possibility, but I wouldn't jump straight into a return just yet. You can buy a usb-compatible wifi chip on Amazon for something like $10 (example) that should solve the problem.
I went with Corsair
Corsair iCUE H100i RGB Pro XT,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0829RTMKY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
if your computer supports a 280mm or 360mm- (fan size and also if it's a 2 or 3 fan configuration on the radiator) - you can get lager and have even better temps most likely, but I've never had issue with the 240
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Internal-Drive-Mounting-BK-HDDH/dp/B00G57BN1M/
For some reason the pictures in your original post didnt load when I first replied. The 3.5" mounting point in this case is on the floor of the case in front of the power supply. You can see the mounting holes if you remove the bottom dust filter.
Which of the two scenarios that I listed above are you looking at?
You CPU uses an AM4 socket which the Celsius+ is compatible with right out of the box.
Here’s an Amazon link (Dynamic version, no RGB fans, there’s also a Prisma version with RGB fans):
Fractal Design Celsius+ S24 Dynamic X2 PWM Black 240mm Silent Performance Slim Radiator AIO CPU Liquid/Water Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085WRK91L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q6D7R0535GH9PRD3PE7X
And a Newegg link (much cheaper there right now):
Fractal Design Celsius+ S24 Dynamic X2 PWM Black 240mm Silent Performance Slim Radiator AIO CPU Liquid/Water Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085WRK91L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q6D7R0535GH9PRD3PE7X
I’m pretty sure I have same MOBO as you, but 10700K instead.
Corsair iCUE H100i Elite Capellix... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G1NSG7F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got this AIO. It comes with a rgb hub so you can control rgb easily with Corsair software.
One thing to mention is that the IBP fans RGB connector doesn’t fit in that Corsair Hub. IBP made the connectors in a way that it has a case on them, kinda stupid imo. So I’m already looking to buy Corsair RGB Fan so I can plug them all and control them all in one place.
Corsair iCUE H60i RGB PRO XT, 120mm Radiator, Single 120mm PWM Fan, Software Control, Liquid CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PHVQBM6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3XBRB5TC0BMGGYBECV08?psc=1
I went with the 240mm version (my original IBP was a 240)
but Corsair is pretty reputable. you can also look into air cooled options, they tend to last a little longer but AiO are a little cooler
Moved the AIO from the side and screwed this to the top, added extra exhaust as well. I did add a fan to the back and removed the internal IBP fan controller that only moves at static speeds and plugged everything in to the PWM on the motherboard.
Ok. The AIO is a radiator used to exchange heat from your CPU to the air outside the case. The fan is used to force air through the rad to promote heat exchange.
Replacing it requires you to remove the cold plate from the CPU. That’s the thing with a cat head on it. It should be held down with four screws. Remove the radiator and fan (four screws probably) and trace any wires back to where they plug in.
Reverse the removal if you install another AIO.
Tower cooler, buy something like this:
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition RGB CPU Air Cooler, SF120R RGB Fan, Anodized Gun-Metal Black, Brushed Nickel Fins, 4 Copper Direct Contact Heat Pipes for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AA221HF6B7QYPB10VM2M
Follow the instructions included with it. Mostly it’s putting 4 screws in and plugging a couple cables into the CPU fan header.
Even just a cheap air cooler to replace it as a crutch until you can afford a better one will be better than simply replacing thermal paste.
Just play it safe and keep your hardware as cooled as possible.
I’m gonna link a few affordable options below but don’t forget to check out socket compatibility before buying.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQ2YDCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P7EJHZEJ2XRCYSMMFFTP
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FDWPCWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BCJ93HJRY37SRRGWRF88
Buy a whole new cpu cooler
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=arctic%2Besports%2B34%2Bduo&qid=1650245617&sprefix=Arctic%2Bes%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-1&th=1
Comes with Thermalpaste.
Clean the cpu with isopropanol before applying the new paste and cooler.
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition RGB CPU Air Cooler, SF120R RGB Fan, Anodized Gun-Metal Black, Brushed Nickel Fins, 4 Copper Direct Contact Heat Pipes for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6DV7SERGJG6GRFRZS35W
You can buy an air cooler cheaper then replacing the liquid cooler and lots of tutorials to install there is also cheaper coolers out there
First get a dust can to clean your pc. Secondly, an CPU fan is roughly 60$. You'll want something like this
Then detach and unscrew the liquid cooling and mount that instead. Put the exhaust fan back in and you're done. Make sure you utilize thermal paste on the CPU when putting the CPU cooler on.
i picked up these on sale at target. Any wireless one will do fine
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No to the case fans, however I have already had 1 fully die and another is getting ready to go, they are extremely low quality. they will be likely replaced eventually but I'm going to wait for them to go I think
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I went overkill on the cooler - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUVGLEU/ but its doing great. the i7-11700 is a fairly cool running chip, so you really don't need anything crazy on it, the AIO that came with it is just absolute dogshit
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also, now my comp is VASTLY quieter. which is a big win
Remote looks the same, the actual LED driver would need other cables to be directly compatible with PC. You would need a connection to molex or sata for PC power supply and the 3 pin LED connector
Unfortunately I can't find anything using the same remote, but this thing would be a direct replacement for the entire controller board
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Controller-Equipment-Brightness-Adjustment/dp/B08ZKMZNCZ
Hmmmm wonder if this one would work RGBZONE DC5-24V Mini 21 Key IR Infrared Wireless RGB Remote Controller for WS2811 WS2812B LED Dream Color Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BX8SGJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SJ65CD9KQGXTAFK59EW0
When I replaced mine the support person I was talking to from ibuypower recommended a corsair replacement, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G1NSG7F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
The air cooler it comes with sucks. I had issues with temp spikes a couple of months in. The computer would shut down on me.
I got the one below. Not expensive and works great. The stock liquid ibp isn't much better by the way. Upgrade.
ASUS Prime Z390-P LGA1151 (Intel 8th and 9th Gen) ATX Motherboard for Cryptocurrency Mining(BTC) with Above 4G Decoding, 6xPCIe Slot and USB 3.1 Gen2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCT5GBD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_92T6Z9CGRDYTXVS35YNY i tried to find more on Amazon but they didn’t have my options. This mobo will work tho
I had this issue start for me as well last week. After a frustrating day of taking everything apart to find the noise I am glad I found this thread. Ended up buying a cooler someone recommended below and it worked great!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079NXZQBC?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Thanks for the help, just purchased this PSU and I'll let you know how it goes! If it doesn't work I'll probably take it in to a shop for someone else to take a look.
Where are you plugging the headphones into? If it's a front connector it may not be compatible with a TRRS 4 ring mic plug (ground, left, right, mic). You may have to do what I did which is get a splitter that you plug your headphones into and then the splitter goes to the green audio output and pink mic input.
This is the one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_PDY4NHNZFXBWDT4X704Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Corsair iCUE H60i RGB PRO XT, 120mm Radiator, Single 120mm PWM Fan, Software Control, Liquid CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PHVQBM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_729ZTHQGX3C73RV6XE40?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Asus AX3000 (Pce-AX58BT) Next-Gen WiFi 6 Dual Band PCIe Wireless Adapter with Bluetooth 5.0 - Ofdma, 2x2 MU-Mimo and Wpa3 Security,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XLP199J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FCR54YKEPH4G2EBW52NM well here you go with both lol. Obviously you haven’t been on forums since 08 tons crap out so easily
Pro Gaming PC Computer Desktop TraceMR 224i (Intel Core i9-11900KF 3.5 GHz, GeForce RTX 3090 24 GB, 32GB DDR4, 1 TB SSD + 2 TB HDD, WiFi Ready, Windows 11 Home) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PKT89H5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_TPC7WJ234XS5JX8C40WK
HW Info; download portable version, it won't install just run it. It will tell you the actual motherboard. Most these pre built bestbuy's have a generic version dumbed down motherboard. https://www.hwinfo.com/ If you have a ASRock B365M IB-R reply I can provide a little pertinent information.
You'd be surprised.
Test your speed at https://www.speedtest.net/ on wifi, then plug your system into the router and test again. If you get the same (low) speed both ways then you know it's the connection and not your PC.
The only way to set up macros on keyboards/mice that dont have software specifically for it is to do registry hacks, which I don't have a lot of experience with.
if you just want an autoclicker, this is what I used to use when playing cookieclicker
https://sourceforge.net/projects/orphamielautoclicker/
worked well enough for my use
For what it's worth to anyone reading this, it's on sale again for only slightly more than it was Black Friday and now I hate my life for being impatient and buying a 1080p 144hz no gsync just this past Tuesday.
Thanks for the info! Man, that thing is huge? Am I looking at the right one?
Unfortunately this case has been out of production for long enough we no longer have many spare parts for it.
However, if you purchase as cheapo infrared LED kit, the remote should at least do something with this case. The functions may be mismatched but if you spam enough of the buttons you can set it to whatever mode you want. There are 2 or 3 different protocols these things use and its not really possible to know what you're buying unfortunately.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/ABI-Inline-Controller-Remote-Strip/dp/B010MG4XTA
Just make sure its the smaller remote with 24 keys like this one
(also if this works, let me know so I know I'm not giving bad advice)
:) its okay. below should be what your looking for. cheap and works great. 99% of all pc fans nowadays have the tiny connector that plugs into the motherboard. all ya gotta do is plug it in. if its too loud you gotta do some digging online for bios stuff. or you could just message me on here. i aint doin anything.
I personally would skip the keyboard, mouse, mousepad, and headset. That would give you a little more money on the rest of the system.
I personally would do this one instead:
IDK if this helps this far out but an option for adding all of the chassis fans to the motherboard fan control is using a PWM hub such as:
As long as the fans are the same brand/size/type/model you shouldn't have any issues. Just be sure to set the minimum rpm in whichever fan control software you are using, because some fans don't like to be operated at speeds lower than that.
Thats a simple connector strip {https://www.newark.com/amphenol-icc/78511-436hlf/board-to-board-header-36-position/dp/75K5123?mckv=s9FaGZX4m_dc|pcrid||plid||kword||match|e|slid||product|75K5123|pgrid|1241348838616863|ptaid|pla-4581183926298686|&msclkid=22865b992126162e81d43a...}. It solders on the back side of the board. I don't know the technical name of the pinned connector or how to find the actual pin size. To unplug everything, remove the mother board to heat up remove the broken connector, remove the old solder and solder the new connector in place is more than it's worth. Unless you've done some electronic assembly and pc building in your day.
Before you begin tweaking stuff, get the WEI tool and get a simple benchmark of the system. The information you'll get gives you a means to find out where the drag on your system speed is likely to be coming from. It's a simple snapshot tool that doesn't tell you what to do, but it does tell you where you can focus your attention. The WEI tool is a free download from the guys that produce the popular Winaero Tweaker, also free, Here's the link: https://winaero.com/comment.php?comment.news.220
if you don't mind checking something for me, HWinfo has some pretty nice recording capabilities
just run that (regular version, dont need pro), choose sensors only, and scroll down until you find a section that says CPU Package Power, just leave that in the background and run your game. Want to see what the highest wattage you see reported is.
The deepcool heatsink should be able to handle about 125W no problem, which is the upper limit of what these CPUs are supposed to be doing unless you are using them for rendering. Curious to see if this board is allowing the CPU to spend a lot of time above that power level.
If you are seeing loads well below 125W then I'm guessing bad thermal contact or something to that effect.
*edit* if your existing monitoring also tracks CPU power usage you can just use that.
If you go to settings in windows, then hit update/security. You'll get a window that tells you everything is up to date, or something needs to be updated.
I know in my window, it says my Ibuypower pc isn't win 11 compatible. Then again, my PC is 3 years old.
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There is this link as well:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-11?ocid=wu_windows_app_omc_win#pchealthcheck
Do you still have the laptop in your possession?
Since the last time you had contacted me and now, I became aware of a BIOS update that is available for the CX-8 laptop. This update has solved similar issues to yours and I think it would be worth it for you to try it. First, verify that there is a small sticker on the bottom of the laptop that says "Model No TWJ". It will be above the non-ibuypower barcode sticker
You will need a USB flash drive that you don't mind being completely erased, preferably an older USB 2.0 one.
use the instructions here to convert it to be bootable:
http://www.howtogeek.com/136987/how-to-create-a-bootable-dos-usb-drive/
Then download the new BIOS from Compal's FTP page:
Not really. There will be a vent in the bottom for the psu and if the feet aren't long enough or the carpet is high enough it compeltely covers the intake stopping all air flow immediately. A peice of cardboard would prevent it but there are better options.
Bought this one a year and a half ago, still going strong. Can't play Ultra or High on every game , but still hold its own.
iBUYPOWER Gaming PC Computer Desktop Element 9260 (Intel Core i7-9700F 3.0Ghz, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6GB, 16GB DDR4, 240GB SSD, 1TB HDD, Wi-Fi & Windows 10 Home) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V34QQ3C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RM6RJT39QPASCAC63HGK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Easy way is to get a power button on amazon. Just need to plug in a few pins, should have instructions with it.
Segotep PC Power Button On/Off Reset HDD Button 5.3FT Extension Cables for Desktop PC Computer Case Power Supply with Blue LED Lights Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097QV6ZD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WSN23RC10H5YPN3R1JZR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is from the Amazon FAQs: > What payment methods can be used with Amazon Pay?
> Any of the payment methods available in your Amazon account can be used with Amazon Pay. Note that Amazon.com gift cards entered into your Amazon account cannot be used when making purchases with Amazon Pay on third-party websites.
I haven't heard of many other people having issues with the CZ17 and windows 10 so there might be some kind of hardware problem with the PC. Given the issues you are having, either might be a hard drive problem or the laptop itself is dying.
If its the hard drive, you might be able to run a scan to check. There is a program called Seatools made by seagate that can run some disk scans, you dont need any drivers for this to work.
http://www.seagate.com/support/downloads/seatools/
Once it installs and you run it, it will scan your pc for available drives and then you can check the box next to the drive and run tests. There are quick tests that just check for errors and long tests that actually scan the whole drive.
If this software tells you anything is wrong with the drive then the fix for your problem might just involve getting a new hard drive, which would run probably $60-100 depending on the size and if you want an SSD or regular mechanical drive.
If there's nothing wrong with the drive, there are some other scans and tests you can run, memory, graphics, etc, but those don't sound like they would cause the issues you are having. Memory tests are relatively easy to run, you can download a program called memtest86
IF you do end up sending it back to us for repairs, the minimum out of warranty repair cost is $75 + shipping. Motherboard replacement on laptops runs around $300-400 just to give you an idea. So in your mind weight the options of spending $500 to fix your current laptop vs spending (at least) $800 on something newer and equivalent. If you have a 670m or 675mx gpu then something with a 950m will match your gaming performance, if you have a 680m then something with a 970m will be needed.
Assuming that you've also done some graphics drivers updates here and there, and that you're not running something in the background only while playing WoW and Lol (and not dying light), then I would assume yes.
Some games use different resources on the graphics card and could be the reason why its not crashing all the time.
I would run a couple synthetic tests like Unigne Heaven to see if they can reproduce a crash
Sounds like a heat issue. Run Coretemp and see if things are overheating. Best case scenario, you just need to clean some fans and filters and what-not. Worst case, you need to replace the AIO cooler.
https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
Just make sure you don't agree to the worthless ad bar.
It's a fairly basic but will tell you what you need. Also your bios might have either a graph or at least a history of your heat.
Could you please elaborate on "overheating error?" Is the PC shutting itself down?
What do your CPU temperatures look like? If you're not sure, try installing Core Temp to see: https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
What kind of CPU cooler did your PC come with? Is it air cooled or liquid cooled?
Please let us know.
Does it blue screen? Check out BlueScreenView to tell you which process fired last before the computer died.
Also, check your eventviewer System and Application logs around the time of the shutdowns for any clues.
My first guess would be a GPU related problem, especially if this only happens in game.
There is a pretty easy program called bluescreenview: http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
basically just run that and look at each dump file. If you click on the dump file in the top half of the pane, it will open the details in the bottom half. In the example screenshots you’ll see hal.dll, ntoskrnl.exe, and tcpip.sys as the top 3 culprit files.
take a look at the most recent 5 or so of these and any commonly reoccurring culprits. Hal.dll and ntoskrnl.exe should be ignored because they are just parts of windows that will show up in almost every bluescreen dump.
Let me know:
a) What the bug check strings are (example screenshot shows DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
b) What the commonly occurring filenames are in each dump file (example screenshot would be tcpip.sys)
That will help narrow down what is causing the problem.
yes i would try running a game or 2. these fans are just case fans and even IF those 2 never turn on ( IE they are broken ) you do have several working ones so overheating is VERY unlikely. if you want to monitor your temps while running a game there are a ton of programs to do that.
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html this is a good one that i have used.
CPU overheating problems you should be able to detect with software. Something like hwmonitor or hwinfo will show you these temps, you're looking for numbers to stay well below the 90C range at all times (thermal shutoff is usually around 100C, but you don't want to get close to that)
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https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
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dont need to use the pro version, just the free version on the left side
Contact our technical support when you can regarding this. If you are getting low performance it may be that there is an issue with the CPU cooler. Hopefully just a loose cable that needs to be plugged back in.
If you are unable to contact tech support for any reason, start by downloading a monitoring program like hwmonitor
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
(free version, not pro)
look for your CPU temps and report back what they are when the PC is idling, then launch a game and check back on Hwmonitor and see what the max temps got to (for reference, anything over 90C is generally bad)
If you haven't already, I would check the temperatures of the various components. A program like HWmonitor will do this.
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
(free version not pro)
You're looking for any temperatures that creep upwards of 90C
Normally random restart behavior could be indicative of a dying power supply or motherboard, but the sluggish performance immediately after a restart might be heat related.
You can use GPU-Z to identify the model of video card you have
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/
For the hard drive, you can just right click on the windows button and go to "device manager". Look under the "disk drives" section to see what the hardware ID for the drives are.
Any chance you can keep an eye on which fan it is? The only fans I can think of that could spin up loud enough to be audible would be the CPU fan, graphics card fan, or the power supply fan.
You can download a program like hwinfo and just leave it open until the spike happens, then look for whichever indicated fan speed seemed to be the one that spiked
I'm going to assume its the CPU fan, but want to make sure. It could take something as simple as adjusting the fan curve in BIOS to be more silent.
You can download the ISO directly from Microsoft. You will need your original OEM Windows product key (it is/was on a sticker on the outside of your case when you got it).
You can download an image file from https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7
You can use the key which should be on a sticker on the laptop (the offical windows sticker probably on the bottom of the laptop). This will install a fresh copy of windows 7 pro all that it require of you is that you know your serial number (which should be on that sticker on the computer)
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Shouldn't make a difference if you use a CD or a USB but beware that windows 7 doesn't have native usb 2.0 or 3.0 support for a fresh install so you need to make sure if you use USB to install windows 7 via a usb 1.0 port. If you had windows 8 or 10 this last step wouldn't matter but you have windows 7 so it does. You can use usb 2 and 3 ports after you install the updates but not for a fresh install.
I would first be concerned if your computer is reading the hard drive. Does it show up in your BIOS or boot menu? If not, it's possible due to the age of it, the hard drive went bad. It's also entirely possible the connection went loose somehow.
You can download a windows 7 ISO straight from Microsoft by typing in your product key, which should be on a sticker on the side or back of your computer.
look up your motherboard. look inside see if you can see a model # or use https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html to check what kind of mobo you have then go look up the manual on the manufacturers website along with searching youtube how to install.
If you purchased the computer from one of the partners listed on Nvidia's website during the correct dates;
January 7, 2019 to March 4, 2019 you are qualified for the Game On (Battlefield V and Anthem)
March 5, 2019 to April 4, 2019 you are qualified for the RTX Triple Threat (Battlefield V, Anthem, and Metro Exodus) bundle.
then you will receive an email with the code. I contacted ibuypower who were less than helpful, however Amazon customer service knew exactly what I was talking about and sent me the information.
See here: Nvidia Redemption Instructions
Interesting! The MSI afterburner clearly shows it hits a certain temperature point and that is when the noise (fan) kicks in. https://www.cloudhq.net/c/010bfed90cf97e
But what to do about it?
I sincerely apologize for the inconvenience. You should of been supplied with a power cable with your PC, please call in and have your order number ready to explain your situation, they will ship you free of charge. Can you also message me in reddit chat with your order number as well. It is a universal power cable that a lot of electronics use. Here is a link:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-03134-Universal-Power-Cord/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr\_1\_4?dchild=1&keywords=power+supply+cable&qid=1635966155&qsid=142-6593926-3373248&sr=8-4&sres=B0012EI6KE%2CB00005113L%2CB07C735N9C%2CB072BYGKZZ%2CB00WA...
Monoprice Multimedia Desktop Stand 22 Inch x 9.5 Inch - Stand & Riser, Laptop Stand, Desktop TV Stand w/ Height Adjustable Legs - Workstream Collection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHCQD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T77KYQNSHCAVMZM7VNR5
Cleaning vid in previous comment, I replaced with this
Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC120E RGB Close-Loop AIO CPU Liquid Cooler, 120mm Radiator, Dual Chamber RGB Pump, AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151
Theres a fan behind your water cooler fan, it's really cheap and shitty and the ballbearings that spin it are giving out. Just replace it with something like this, very easy procedure.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-PWM-Premium-Quiet/dp/B00BEZZBFO
Pumps are always set at 100% fan speed. If you want lower and more maintenance you can try Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - Aluminum, Thermal Paste Based on Liquid Metal - Not Suitable for Large Cooling Systems - Liquid Metal Thermal Paste for Cooling The CPU, GPU (1 Gram) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N6AA9CFQT09NJW9D2157 but do your research as it eats through aluminum over time
correct spec but these seem very overpriced. You should be able to get a good 3200 mhz ddr4 kit for around $75. You don't need RGB since you can't see into the Revolt 2. And I'd go for something as low profile as you can get since it will help with other clearances.
Something like vengeance lpx
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https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC
Just came here to add my 2 cents too. I had the exact same issue as all of you at the 13 month with my ibuypower system as well. Just out of warranty so I had to troubleshoot all the fans one at a time, even the hard drive, last it was the radiator. I unplugged it and the noise stopped, I plugged it back in and bam noise again. Ordered a CORSAIR - Hydro Series 120mm Radiator from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079NXZQBC/ solved the issues. Glad to hear it wasn't just me. I opened mine up after switching them out and the entire thing is half filled with air. Leading me to believe I am hearing the air bubbles in the system.
This works well and looks nice with the ibp cases.
Monoprice Medium Multimedia Desktop Stand, Black Glass (27.6" x 12.2" x 3") - Stand & Riser, Laptop Stand, Desktop TV Stand, Dual Monitors w/ Height Adjustable Legs - Workstream Collection (116360) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA61R25/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_Q32HM6CR4B1W158KQ9NZ
Okay so I would first check to see if the motherboard has built in wifi if so then get some antennas to plug in the back. If it doesn’t then getting something like this would be your best bet. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Bluetooth-Wireless-Browsing-Streaming/dp/B084JPFKQ5/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=A96RV4GTIU8X&dchild=1&keywords=pcie+wifi+card&qid=1632096878&sprefix=pcie&sr=8-3
And why are those things sus? It was context.
I'm also on a covid LOA right now, quarantining, so yes a next day shipment by Amazon sure beats waiting another week to pick it up in store! Good job at being a keyboard warrior, though. Might I recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082GR814B/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, I’d just replace it. Fans are pretty cheap, arctic cooling sells a decent pack of 5 for $30.
Yes, on the third picture you have a add-on card with Ethernet, sometimes they come with Wi-Fi built in.
You don't need that card because your mainboard already has an ethernet port on it. There is no Wi-Fi built into your mainboard, so if you wanted Wi-Fi, you should instead consider something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Bluetooth-Wireless-Browsing-Streaming/dp/B084JPFKQ5/ which also has bluetooth.
Would this ssd work correctly? I just want to double check everything.
SAMSUNG 870 QVO SATA III 2.5" SSD 4TB (MZ-77Q4T0B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089C5P5SX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_90FHNFE8CZ2R7SM4NFNS?psc=1
And this cable would work as well?
SATA Cable III, BENFEI SATA Cable III 6Gbps Straight HDD SDD Data Cable with Locking Latch 18 Inch Compatible for SATA HDD, SSD, CD Driver, CD Writer - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TB5QBPK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_PWNTVQ7BWWWQFN8KF5F7