To prolong li-ion battery life, as it says. You CAN quick charge, even multiple times a day, but it shortens the life of the battery.
It shortens the life of the battery every time you subject it to very high temperatures, which multiple quick charges in a row will do. Up to you whether you care. A few road trips a year probably won't move the needle too much, but if you do that every weekend, the battery won't last as long as another car that's only trickle charged all its life.
It doesn't really matter. I charge to 100% every night and my battery has not degraded any faster than people that only charge once a week. Especially with the very large battery, there's enough of a buffer "built in". 100% on the dashboard is not really 100% in the battery cells.
That says 6-50 right? Wirecutter's top rated EVSE, the Siemens VersiCharge, uses that outlet. I've been using one for 4 years and 2 LEAFs.
You don't have "extreme ambient temperatures". You should park wherever you want. That's a warning for the folks in Arizona and Nevada where the pavement can be 120F+.
No.
You may want to invest in something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Eapele-Protector-Prevent-Outdoor-Settings/dp/B07WY5J9FV
I use this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en
Seems a bit quicker but more importantly works well in the background and has a widget so it's functionally much easier to use.
Someone asked about wireless charging the other day. I know that there is an official part that replaces the rubber mat with a wireless charging version, but it’s super expensive and hard to find.
So instead I thought I’d share my solution that gives wireless CarPlay and charging.
The CarPlay adapter is from CPLAY2air - https://cplay2air.com and the wireless charger is an ESR mini - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ZCQJ7VM
They’re both held in place with double sided tape. The CarPlay dongle is plugged in to the USB socket that’s visible and the wireless charger is plugged into one of the rear sockets.
Both cables are just tucked in neatly. An easy 15 minute install (if that) and it works perfectly.
> Which cards/charge networks should I sign up for?
Go to http://www.plugshare.com for a map of chargers around you, or wherever you might drive. Sign up for those networks and leave the cards in your car. They're all free to get a card, so you might as well have them in case you ever need to stop for a charge.
> Should I get a l2 home charger?
Probably.
Have you tried charging with the L1 cord yet? It takes around 16 hours to fully charge on that, which isn't very convenient if you drive a lot.
Wasn't an option for me anyway, as there wasn't any circuit in my house where the car pulling 12 amps didn't trip the breaker and stop the charge.
I ordered this L2 charger from Amazon, got it delivered next day, and had an electrician put in an outlet to plug it into for $120. Was an easy install since I wanted it near my breaker panel and had plenty of room to add another 40A breaker.
The author of the Leaf Spy Pro app currently recommends "the LELink Bluetooth Low Energy one sold on Amazon", which appears to be this one. It says it's for both iOS and Android. I would take his recommendation. There used to be other recommended adapters, but Chinese companies started selling knockoffs of all of them (without changing the name), and some of the knockoffs were faulty and could damage your car.
According to the Amazon listing you linked it can also run on 110:
Rated current and voltage: 110-240V AC | 16 Amp | J1772 SAE connector (will operate on 110v with adapter, not included)
And this looks like the adapter you'd need:
https://www.amazon.com/DUOSIDA-5-15P-6-20R-Electric-Adapter/dp/B07QX15Y1G/
I am not an electrician. This is my best efforts response.
Your juicebox uses a NEMA 14-50R outlet and your dryer is probably a 30 amp NEMA 10-30R outlet. You can buy an adapter.
You can also buy a switcher so you don't have to unplug your dryer and plug in your juicebox every time you want to charge. Disclaimer: I have not used this so I am not recommending it! But take a look at https://www.amazon.com/Splitvolt-Splitter-Automatic-Switching-Between/dp/B08PDRTX5X?th=1 Specifically the 2nd option that splits to one 10-30R and one 14-50R
The only other thing I would check is the amperage on your circuit breaker for your dryer. If it is a 30 Amp breaker then you need to go into your juicebox app and lower the max charge current to 24 Amps. This is because a continuous electrical load must be limited to 80% of the max the circuit can handle for safety (heat leading to fire) reasons.
Re: /u/MentalUproar, /u/stljeeper, /u/ahave, /u/mamarley:
This one from Amazon was only $10 and works perfectly for me, FYI
Huh, I have not tried anything like this, but my guess is that since both the 12 V battery and the traction battery provide DC, and a 120V outlet is AC, you would need an inverter. A quick amazon search gave me:
This would run off your Leaf's 12V car battery in ACC mode, though, not the traction battery. Since the Leaf doesn't have to turn over an engine, it's not as heavy duty as your typical ICE car battery. You might want to upgrade it to an AGM battery if you're going to do this.
I recommend this one from Amazon.
It plugs in, not hard wired, so you can take it with you if you travel or move.
It slides onto a wall-mount bracket that attaches to the wall with two screws. So you can have it mounted in the garage or wherever you'll use it most often.
You won't need any expensive electrical work. Just ask an electrician to put in a 240V 6-50 outlet, screw the mounting bracket into the wall yourself, and plug the charger in to the outlet. Some electricians would charge more if you asked to "install an EVSE" vs "install an outlet". I got my outlet put in for about $120.
Leafspy is an app that can poll a bluetooth OBD2 dongle to find leaf specific information, such as battery SOC, capacity, cell voltage, temperature, etc.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Turbo3.Leaf_Spy_Lite
> you can say is a 1.5 kWh heater
Heaters do not store energy, so you would never say it's a 1.5 kWh heater.
You would say it's a 1500 watt heater.
If you're in Canada, or you need it for another car with a powered mirror, I bought this one that has worked for me. You just push the pins into the back of the mirror connector.
I've used the official Nissan one that was garbage, and one called 'my leaf' that is much better. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dk.kjeldsen.carwingsflutter You can check charge levels, preheat etc. None of them are particularly fast as they all rely on 3G messages to communicate so there is always lag. I've got a 30kw first get tekna
what I did in my 2015 S was get.a USB-powered dongle that converted the phone's bluetooth out to an FM station the radio played.
something like this:
it worked for the most part. Good for podcasts, not very good for music
Happy to help. One other thing to think about -- have you planned how you're going to keep it charged? Unless you have a workplace that will have a dedicated car charger in your parking spot to use every day, the only practical thing that won't have you hating your car is to charge at home, with an L2 EVSE you'll need to buy as well. A 30 amp charger (more than enough for a Leaf) will run about $500, and you can find one on Amazon. Installation requires a new 240V outlet, wired to a new 40 amp breaker on your home's circuit breaker panel. If the place you want to plug in your car is far from the panel, or your panel doesn't have sufficient service to add 40 more amps, it could be an expensive installation, and you probably want to get an estimate from an electrician (and your utility company if you need to upgrade from 100A to 200A service for example) to be prepared for it.
Buy an OBDII bluetooth dongle off Amazon. This one from LELink is the most frequently recommended, but I have this one from Panlong which was cheaper and works just fine. Download Leafspy from whatever app store you use (Google Play in my case). The free app will give you basic battery diagnostics like SOH (state of health). The paid one will give you considerably more info, but in my opinion most of that is useful for owners moreso than people just shopping.
Turn the car on, plug dongle into OBDII port on the Leaf, open Leafspy on your phone, connect to dongle via bluetooth, and Leafspy will show you the info. Takes 30 seconds.
This is worth doing before you buy.
If you're on Android, try Leaf Manager. It's not perfect, but it doesn't block the UI while waiting for a response from Nissan's insanely slow servers
Replace that horn. Easy, cheap. So many options.
There are 3rd party apps that work better than the Nissan one.
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en
iOS: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/eva-leaf-connect-to-your-nissan-leaf/id1050429958?mt=8
Can't speak to the iOS app but have heard good reviews from others. The Android one is nice as it does the communication in the background and all the functionality is right there versus on different tabs that take forever to load on the Nissan app. It still takes 30sec-1min to update power level but you can set it to auto update when it loses bluetooth connection to car (when you stop driving) and auto update while charging. Personally I have no real need for the remote charge level monitoring but I love the remote climate control, so nice to just hit a button 5-10 min before I leave and have a warm/cool car waiting for me.
IMHO the connect is a nice feature to have, but not essential. I use it almost exclusively for turning on the climate control before leaving. So nice to have a warm or cool car to get into. The nissan app does suck, this one is much better if you have Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Turbo3.Leaf_Spy_Lite :) I'm wondering because I've ran mine for 65K km, and my soc is not even below 90% - so far as I understand, that means it's pretty close to "factory defaults". With a 2013 Leaf.
I just helped my wife buy one a while back. Here is the one thing that made me feel good about the purchase.
Get and ODB2 bluetooth adapter and plug it into the car you are looking at. Use the app Leafspy to check the actual battery state of the car you are buying. The battery is by far the most important part of the car.
Numerous google searches will throw up the same general results. This Motley fool article has a nice overview.
https://www.fool.com/taxes/2018/04/22/how-much-does-the-average-american-pay-in-taxes.aspx
Median income is high $50K and average American pays over $10K
Point still stands - if you aren't paying enough in taxes to get the rebate why would you even bother buying the car - you don't because you can't
So, at $.26/gallon, 656gallons/year/driver that’s come out to $170.56/yearly. That’s still saving you $70/year vs the gas alternative.
Sources: https://www.salestaxhandbook.com/georgia/gasoline-fuel
https://www.fool.com/investing/2017/01/14/heres-how-much-gasoline-the-average-american-consu.aspx
The NissanConnect EV Action for the Google Assistant allows Nissan LEAF owners to access:
I'm mostly happy with the kayak rack, in that it does transport the kayak. But over about 35mph the noise of the rack (unloaded) is irritating. Luckily I don't go over that much, and I can remove the bars easily if I need to go far (which is rare).
Mine is Yakima from REI, with Jay-Low kayak holders.
Find out how much your power rate is and go from there and put in the appropriate numbers in the calculator. The leaf charges at 6.6kw on L2 or around 1500W with Level 1 @ 120V for 8 hours.
https://www.omnicalculator.com/other/electricity-cost
Or by raw math, when the Leaf is at 50% that's approximately 10kwh to recharge.
For me, that's $1 (10cents/kwh)For you, it may be $1, $1.50 or $2.
In a nutshell, charging an electric car is cheap compared to your air conditioner/heater, as that is the biggest user of power.
Mine came with a type 2 male to type 2 female cable also. They are quite expensive imo. Here's a link to one on Amazon
Good idea. I would add that you can get a non-Tesla, non-Nissan branded kit that's functionally equivalent for less than $25.
Yes. Something like this you can get at any hardware store: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=outlet+tester&qid=1619040677&sr=8-7
I have had the front off mine, I think it was just a bunch of pop pins and maybe 4 bolts, at least not enough to remember. Should be able to look for salvage red bumpers and fix it up almost like new (fender looks a little dented). Till then put some diy chrome on both side to make it match.
I have the exact same problem. Maybe these at least put it higher?
I bought this one on Amazon so I can take it with me to other/future houses --
https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-VC30GRYU-Versicharge-Electric-Flexible/dp/B00MFVI92S/
It just plugs into a 240V wall outlet, which I had an electrician install for a whopping $120.
30A is as fast as any Leaf can charge, so it's plenty. Nobody but Tesla does higher speed home charging, because 30A is enough to charge hundreds of miles of range overnight.
The trickle charger is a fancy extension cord between your car and a 120V outlet.
A "240v charging station" is a fancy extension cord between your car and a 240V outlet.
You don't need a cord for your cord.
If you plan on using the trickle charger for weeks, make sure you have a 120V outlet with nothing else on the same circuit, otherwise you're likely to just trip your breaker and not charge the car. It draws 12 amps, which is the maximum a 15 amp breaker is rated for in terms of continuous draw.
I got this L2 charger from Amazon shipped overnight and installed the next day by an electrician for $120. Trickle charging isn't possible in my house, there were no outlets that have their own circuit.
Your EVSE is going to carry enough power to burn down your house, easily. It's going to be plugged and unplugged hundreds of times and can't fail under that stress. Do you want to trust that to a blurry photo of a no-name metal box assembled somewhere in asia with no testing or certification whatsoever? I wouldn't.
Here's one on Amazon you can have on your door step tomorrow, from a major brand, with a 3-year warranty. It's the one Home Depot used to carry in its stores.
> 120v 12amps would be double that
120V * 12A = 1,440 Watts
24 kWh / 1.44 kW = 16.67 hours
Do you think you'll own another EV after your Leaf? Tesla's already shipping cars and chargers that can pull up to 80 amps at home. 27A is all a Leaf will ever use, but if you only run thick enough wire for 30 or 40 amps, you'd have to redo the wiring if you wanted a faster charger for another car in the future.
I currently use this charger from Amazon with my Leaf. It calls for a 6-50 outlet on a 40 amp breaker.
You've got it. /u/WizrdOfSpeedAndTime got you covered with the earlier comment. Just to provide another option for you, I went with this Siemens Versicharge Unit. <$500 from Amazon. $250 to have a local electrician run a line to the garage for me.
Had it for about 5 years now, and have been pretty happy. I did run in to an issue with the equipment but they stood up, replaced it, very easy.
The 110 charging cable just stays in my trunk and I use if VERY RARELY... but it is nice to have for emergencies.
I bought the Siemens VersiCharge from Amazon. Nice long cord, attractive, plug-in, serious manufacturer, good warranty, delivered as fast as overnight...
This one from Amazon has served me well for many years and multiple LEAFs. It's also the Wirecutter blog's top recommended EVSE.
heads up - my windows are tinted but on cooler mornings I prefer to have my windows cracked open for the breeze, but then I get the same annoyance you do. I purchased a visor extender from amazon like other posts in here suggested. Here is the one i got, I'm fairly happy with it:
This is the one that I used: PowMr
Regardless of the controller you end up using, make sure you are aware that you'll need to adjust for the product's indicated voltage compared to the actual voltage using a calibrated meter.
Doesn’t look like it would fit. The plug that came with my car is a NEMA 14-50 4-prong type, with a little adapter that clicks in for a wall charge. Something like this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Adapter-Cord-15A-12inch-10-Power-Cord/dp/B06XTQJVNZ
Strange. In the Play Store it says "Last updated Oct 4, 2018" and there's no newer version available on my phone. I'm on Android 9, just updated to that two days ago. The app's working and looks the same as it has for the past year or so.
I'm a new leaf owner, am currently trying out;
My Leaf which is nice and pretty, but doesn't have an easy button to turn on climate control (which is what I want to do 99% of the time when I open the app)
and;
Leaf Manager which has some great features, but looks pretty dated and barely seems to work most of the time anyway..
It looks like the 2012 should be supported.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aqsmartphone.android.nissan
This app allows model year 2011-2017 LEAF owners to access these features**:
•Remote Start Charge •Remote Battery Status Check •Remote Climate Control On/Off •Remote Climate Control Timer •Route Planner •My Car Finder (MY16 and MY17) •Plug-in Reminder Notification •Charge Complete Notification •and more
The older cars came with a 2G radio which doesn't work on modern cell networks anymore, in the US Nissan will replace it with a 3G radio allowing it back on the network again for $200.
I honestly don't know the difference between synthetic and real leather so I can't advise, would a picture of my wheel help you?
You can use Nissano for that. It only does the AC and it's quick.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.nissano&hl=en
Though I'm not sure that it works now with the new JSON. Still the design has been done before. Someone should just make a quick and dirty AC only app that works with the new JSON if this doesn't still work.
I have the app but my 2012 doesn't have a 3G radio so I can't test it now that 2G is gone.
I haven't actually gotten this yet, but I am just about to order this seemingly well-built, slim black one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4XBQPU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ACCURP5LDW6Z8
This is the one I use. The stick on pad is on the back of my Mophie, and the magnet in the mount is strong enough to hold both the phone and the Mophie no problem.
Not all that hard to find really. This is the one I use and it works just fine. It's also small enough that leaving it plugged in isn't a problem.
If you charge with the 110v charger that comes with the car, you can plug it into a <strong>Kill-a-watt</strong> meter for $20. That'll show you actual consumption. It'll even let you enter your electricity price and then it'll tell you how much money you're putting in the car for fuel.
If you can't connect at all under ideal conditions this probably won't help but the fastest app to use is the "nissano" app. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.nissano
It literally won't do anything but turn on the HVAC so it doesn't waste time checking SOC% or charging status or anything else that the official app does.
Because it doesn't support the full app functionality it's lite and quick. It is 3rd party but it is also free.
I'd give it a shot just to confirm it isn't some goofy bug with the "Nissan EV" app.
If you have an Android phone try out this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en
I've found it to be a little bit quicker than the Nissan app and it will work in the background so you can do other stuff with your phone. If you spend the $5 for the Pro version you get a nice homescreen widget and you can set it to auto update based on the BT connection to the car among other things. Much faster to use overall IMHO.
Android phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en
iPhone: http://www.leaflinkapp.com/
Problem solved. Doesn't necessarily speed up the operations (though they do feel faster), but they both allow asynchronous/background operations so it's not nearly as annoying.
I use Leaf Manager, works great for my needs. One button in the widget to turn on the climate control, auto updates battery percent 5 min after I stop the car.
If you do go the Nissan Connect route, and want to access the API, here's the thread to watch (linking to the last page, as that's most relevant):
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=2214&start=120
Personally, if I had the time (and if this can be controlled via the CAN bus), I'd go the Carloop route with the GSM module.
The Nissan Connect service is slow, doesn't always work, and the app is clunky.
I skipped the upgrade, and started using the timer feature in the morning. But you're right that pre-cooling the vehicle during random trips is very useful (and something I'll miss).
Last but not least: if you're considering MQTT (CloudMQTT seems to work well, and is free), and use Android, don't forget to check out MQTT Dash.
Honestly? A super cheap solution is to buy some absorbent cat litter and dump it in a sock and tie the top off. Toss a couple in the car and it'll absorb the extra moisture. I usually put one near my front window and it helps a lot.
Once a week or so, dump the damp litter and pour in some new.
Or you can buy bags made just for that purpose. The advantages on these is you can usually microwave them (or put them in the oven, depending on the brand), to remove the moisture and then reuse them.
I had Amazon filter for what fits. Here’s what we ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-C28183-PurolatorONE-Cabin-Filter/dp/B073JYYCN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2NEL5LML6IRGU&keywords=nissan+leaf+cabin+air+filter&qid=1668383031&sprefix=nissan+lea%2Caps%2C108&sr=1-2&vehicle=2022-67-16223-...
Nice ride! We have the same year, model, and color... :)
I see some snow in your pic. If you don't have a garage and intend to plug in during icey weather, I would recommend one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RT2D9V2?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I don't worry about rain or snow, but i don't want to have to bust the charge cable out of the port after being covered in ice. this cover should (no experience yet) make that much easier.
Enjoy!
Cheers,
packet
from the Google Play store:
Information displayed by Leaf Spy Lite & Leaf Spy:
Additional information displayed by Leaf Spy:
You may want to purchase the "Pro" version which adds the ability to perform functions normally requiring a visit to the dealer.
I'll second this stuff.
Also, consider some of these, perhaps both.
Are if you're noticing any rust stains on your driveway. Corrosion can also cause rust of the battery hold-down and battery tray. It takes some time, but when I replaced our 12v battery, I removed the battery tray and hold-downs. Cleaned them up with a wire brush to get all the corrosion and rust off, and gave them a touch-up with some black spray paint.
Are you sure you mean a Chademo cable? These are the big ones used for rapid charging so unless you're very lucky you probably don't have one at home.
If you search on Amazon there are loads of type 1 wall mounts. This one for £10 looks decent if you are in the UK
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/VORSPRUNG%C2%AE-Strong-Bracket-Charger-Charging-Black/dp/B09Q94CTYT/
I don't know how effective they are against water ingress but our tethered type 1 charger has a mount and that is always dry.
I bought one of these (after my 12v battery died without warning):
https://smile.amazon.com/NOCO-GB20-UltraSafe-Lithium-Gasoline/dp/B015TKPT1A/r
I've never been able to actually test it so I'm just hoping that it works when needed. I keep it in the cubby in the hatch area.
There's a charger in London, KY and one in Norris, TN that are 78 miles so you can make that. A little out of your way, but they're both L2 chargers so very do-able.
Also, there are tons of Airbnbs along that route! Airbnb is everywhere, man! That's the benefit of it over hotels and the like.
If the adapter is built to spec then yes it will work. There are a lot of cheap knockoffs out there, though.
I personally use these and haven't had problems: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NVM8158?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_HY8X4CBJQNVPM9EWJC4Y
>the interior lights are incredibly dim. Are there any upgrades that people have made to make them brighter? Mainly the main dome light in the back middle. I doubt the tiny reading(?) lights up front can be easily improved.
Yes, replace them with aftermarket LED lights, its an easy 5 minute swap. Just make sure you're not pulling more than the stock wattage with the replacement, that's unlikely though as the stock halogen lights sip energy like crazy.
I leave it on for seriously extended periods, haven't driven the car in a couple of years and the battery is fine. Yes, I disconnect it when I'm charging the main battery. Highly recommend the NOCO Genius-1 and the NOCO X-Connect SAE Adapter. Better than any trickle charger I've used & I'm OAF. I have them on 4 vehicles - 3 AGM's & 1 Lithium.
Yes if the voltage drops below 11.7 you will get some disabling behavior but the voltage drop is not sudden and can be tracked:
Yes, it seems too high. Having just purchased two used LEAFs (long story elided) a 2017 and a 2018, that is significantly more than we paid for the 2018.
Get LeafSpy (pro only in the iOS App Store) and a compatible obd II reader. This is what I used (veeppak). As others have noted, look for the SOH (state of health). I found this to be much more reliable than the "number of bars" (gen 1, 2011-2017). Also as you test drive, peek at the max delta. Smaller is better. I found otherwise seemingly sound LEAFs had poor SOH.
Of the ones with good packs, many (including ones from Dealers) had structural issues. Often repaired (and perhaps quite competently) but these would have reduced the value of comprehensive insurance considerably. Since we were purchasing for our son as a first/learning car, functioning comprehensive insurance seemed wise (and proved to be so ;<).
If you have a trusted mechanic (even if they aren't LEAF specialists) they can vet the frame and conventional components. We used sos-inspections he saved us from potentially expensive blunders.
2018 was the first model year of the "Gen2" in many ways it is clearly the superior vehicle. I have to admit I was partial to the Gen1 styling (it makes an "in your face" EV statement), and I'm not entirely convinced the new UI is really better.
The 2018 Nissan self reporting is 100% capacity, LeafSpy put it at 89%+ (it hadn't been driven for the better part of a year, and it seems to improve its health a bit as we shake the cobwebs loose). I did not test drive any 2019's, so I don't know if there is a compelling reason to go with 2019.
EVs are selling at a premium over their historic prices; ultimately if the car is sound, the pack is healthy and it is what you want, go for it.
Thank you for the feedback, I was curious if it worked with your neighbor.
If it is whole house your dryer outlet will have issues too. L2 doesn't need neutral but it still needs ground. You can buy a outlet tester at local hardware store but even if it isn't ground still sounds like an electrician call.
Just to see if you can get limping along see if there is a cut bare copper wire near your breaker box (lawn mower cut it and/or corrosion) and reconnect if possible. It should be connected to a 1/4 inch diameter rod hammered into the ground nearby (technically 2 spaced like 6ft apart but I don't always see that). I guess worst case ask the neighbor if you can use them to charge for a while. Every 4% will be ~1kWh and you can 'tip' accordingly (21kWh usable minus unknown degredation and 85% 120v effencicy I am just guessing 4%).
Good luck.
Great point - I took the breaker-link for granted in my box - GFCI will still engage. I wouldn't test it though.
The EVSE sets the limit - the car takes only what it's allowed. If you shop around, there's EVSE's that different charging rates too.
I see 28.5 on each of the hots when I'm charging.
Yes, it does. This is stated in the manual. Feel free to look it up.
Or buy one of these and see the log of 12v battery charging. (I have one.)
https://smile.amazon.com/BUNKER-INDUST-Bluetooth-Wireless-Automotive/dp/B07GP1RXYZ
I got these and they are perfect without dark spots and such. I couldn't stand those yellow-ish halogens!
Funny enough I saw this in the context of terrible ideas; however I can see if you actually have no seat, it would be useful. {chuckle}
Seat belt alarm stopper.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Safety-Accessories-Vehicle-B02/dp/B0B9HQJ6K3/
I got these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6BP5TW7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
They are very bright.
Always helpful to know the year of the Leaf you're asking about... These fit 2011-2017 not sure above those years but I'd imagine they are correct, you can check the fit on Amazon by adding the car you are trying to buy for.
>The power coming from that OBD port is 12 volts though, and it comes straight from the low voltage battery under the hood. You will probably fry the ESP if you power it straight from that.
Voltage regulators are a thing
>I'd rather take the Bluetooth OBD 2 adapter that already works with Leafspy today,
I've already stated the ESP32 comes with CAN functionality already built in
>cut the + and - pins off the end that plugs into the car and wire it into a seperate USB-PD power bank with a device like this to get a constant 12 volts. The ESP can also be powered from the same power bank and send commands over the bluetooth link to read SoC.
The Leaf 12v battery is 45+ah, all you're doing is adding another level of complexity to what would be a very simple circuit
The power coming from that OBD port is 12 volts though, and it comes straight from the low voltage battery under the hood. You will probably fry the ESP if you power it straight from that.
I'd rather take the Bluetooth OBD 2 adapter that already works with Leafspy today, cut the + and - pins off the end that plugs into the car and wire it into a seperate USB-PD power bank with a device like this to get a constant 12 volts. The ESP can also be powered from the same power bank and send commands over the bluetooth link to read SoC.
I'll check out Nicoclub, thanks.
I have an auxiliary 12v-12v DC charger. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q4SVX3M
I originally had the batteries paralleled like you suggested with an automatic disconnect from an RV. The auxiliary 12V battery is there to run a powered cooler and internet hotspot and I want it to run as long as it possibly can but not jeopardize the main 12V. The auxiliary 12V was always in a more discharged state due to this usage. That coupled with even the modest voltage drop from the 4gauge wire to the auxiliary battery was making it so the auxiliary battery was never fully charged and significantly reduced its operating time.
I would love to share this item. The unit was sold by Ottocast and shipped by Amazon.
link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Q59XY7Y
For setup, quite easy, as the instruction said, plug it into the car, go to your phone Bluetooth setup and connect to Ottocast unit. Once paired, it will ask on the phone screen if you want to use Carplay (iPhone), select "Yes" and it will disconnected from Bluetooth and use WiFi to connect. No more hassling with cords!
Great idea! Found these on Amazon and two of the reviews specially mention them as strut covers for the Nissan Leaf. Do you have a different recommendation?
Is there a reason these are better than something flat like these?
Happened to me a couple years ago. My front shield came loose and was hanging down. Most of the clips were missing and there were about 3 or 4 holding the shield to the frame. I bought a bag of new clips https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHD7F5J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and replaced them all. I suspect that the Nissan service department removed it to replace the strut suspension, but just popped the shield back on with most of the clips missing or loose. Since about 4 months had passed, it didn't occur to me to take it back to the Nissan dealership and ask for a free repair.
Every 100K (160KM) miles do: Antifreeze, gearbox oil, maybe physical brakes. Change the cabin air filter every once and awhile. Brake fluid as needed.
12v battery every 3-5 years.
Get some kind of strut bolt cover. I recommend 4 inch plungers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YBDY1WT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
No issues with my iPhone 12 and Leaf 2022 SV.
Using this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVHL3V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! Also thanks for your post I was like man these cupholders, I am going to get a heat gun and re-mold them because I can't use tall cups under the dash I was going to try to tilt them like 10 degrees (I can drink some so the cop is only 90% full) but man "offset cupholder"! a whole new world for me. I am thinking about the kind where you can still put a cup/bottle in and then there is a "double" on top, I am going to measure out and or test this one: https://www.amazon.com/UILB-Multifunctional-car-Cup-Holder/dp/B087M1L5TZ/
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089LDX88M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They also have a dash stick on version.
It's great I love how it grabs the phone via clamping by weight.
It will not work on phones with the sticky CC holders on the back because then the phone is too thick.
Yup, tempted to get one of these for our Gen 2 to fit my larger tumblers. Take a look at this Amazon link for the "offset" type that I got since they show if you offset 2 of them, you can fit 2 side by side. Not sure if the Gen 2 Leaf holders are too close even for that, but worth researching. Thanks for confirming no slips thus far - that's a definite concern of mine on these but so far so good.
It's an older iOttie Easy One Touch (v2) and seems they are on v5 now. Adding the Amazon Link. I'm tempted to upgrade to the new v5 since it has the dash pad addition which may prevent the "dash ring imprint" I mentioned in the pics and one complaint about the current one is the phone will snap in place (the One Touch feature) sometimes off center a bit which then blocks the iPhone charging cord. It's easy to shift it over manually when needed, but also the magnetic cable holder feature they added is useful, so may need to upgrade... I get nothing from the Amazon link so feel free to buy from elsewhere or another brand with similar extended-arm feature.
I have this one: A Buzz Rack capable of carrying two heavy ebikes. Solid, well made, fits my 2018 Leaf beautifully and allows the hatch to open. Comes with a ramp for easy loading. Not cheap, but my ebikes are very expensive and deserve the best transport.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XG5V1TQ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_L-ozEbVBTSS9T
Hitch is an Ecohitch with a 1 1/4" receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SZMRVJQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I stuck the 99% one inside the charge flap or what ever thats officially called.
LeafSpy is a hardware piece that plugs into the ODBC II (sp?) of your Leaf. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A
And then a software piece, an app for your phone, to read the output.
There is not a lot on what the gathered data means, and it seems like it may have limited usefulness. But I had used this as a reference
I put mine in the place in front of the cup holders. Super glued it in place as part of the base doesnt touch the flat part. Angled it so the phones slightly facing me but and also only covers up the right drink carrier, not the one on my side.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0875RKTQF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Been using this one for years in multiple vehicles, its the best I have found and since I don't use the CD player, its never bothered me that it blocks the slot.
You want an adaptor that goes from NEMA 14-50R to NEMA 5-15P
Something like this will work. The stock charger that comes with the car should have had it. All you need is the adaptor and the charger works fine.
Yes, but if you spend ~£10 on one of these you can fit both the brick and the charger plug inside and it looks a nice and tidy. For some reason red is on offer but they usually have the green one which looks better.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-IP54-Weatherproof-Electric-Box/dp/B07FB4M76N/
been using this for 2 years with no problems
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075GJK2S9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Why is it $900?
I bought this one when it was on sale for about $200. even the non-sale price is way better than that.
Anyone sees any issues with this type of charger?