Hey guys, here's dev update #2 for VR Pinball (now named "Pinball Labs").
In addition to being full VR pinball simulator the main focus will be:
The API will enable wiring a pinball machine to scripted game logic, emulators (such as PinMAME), input controllers and rumble devices.
I'm trying to get a few people to try out the demo and gauge how much interest there is.
It's not quite a playable "game" yet but it should give you an idea of how it would play and look in VR. My dev machine has a GTX 760 and runs a solid 75 fps on the DK2. It should be playable on a normal monitor as well.
One thing that could be an issue is limited resolution. However consider CV1 and Vive will have somewhat better resolution than the DK2. I also think there's a lot that can be done with contrast and lighting to improve on that.
Demo available at:
https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0B-PPb1vAvJRCeE5zNEd6ekZPRUE&export=download
https://mega.nz/#!rIwVFTBS!nPrLgVrwTbQM3mJs6FMjOQhH460ziMis7yo0yj6aBhs
Requires Oculus Runtime 0.7. Will add mirrors if needed.
An in-game TV displays instructions and controls.
Search for toppers or mods for his favorite pin that he owns, if he keeps them and doesn't flip them frequently (changing every 6-12 months).
Otherwise, here are some additional ideas:
You just missed a pair of them on ebay.
ninja edit, description of item (for future googlers):
Here are two licensed Earthshaker! toy pins by Playtime from 1989. Fans of the original, full-size Williams pins will appreciate the use of the same playfield and backglass artwork used on these toy pins. The toy pins each use four D cell batteries, and the battery contacts are shiny and corrosion-free. A couple of wooden legs are included in place of the original yellow, plastic ones. Both of these pins have bells in the backboxes which ring during play. Neither of the simulated "digital" scoring reels are working. I've had these pins safely stored away in the closet of my house for a number of years. Before storing them away, one or both of the scoring reels worked. The same motor in the backbox that rings the bell also makes the scoring reels move. The motors/bells in both of these pins work so I'm not sure why the reels don't move. Perhaps these pins just need a little TLC in the backboxes. Whatever the case, you'll have two of these in case you need to swap parts from one to the other. These pins would be a good conversation piece for someone who owns an Earthshaker, for someone who just appreciates the original Williams pin, and/or for someone who collects licensed pinball merchandise. Thanks for looking.
Note: I also put up a similar Black Knight 2000 (boxed) pin here on eBay.
Paypal Confirmed Addresses Only Please Pay within 48 Hours of Winning Auction
This one
https://www.amazon.com/Pinball-Compendium-Electro-Mechanical-Era/dp/0764330284
All of his books are a nice read full of anecdotes from interviewing people who are passing on.
If you're willing to drop real money on a real pin, I wish you the best, I don't know anything about this.
Pinball Arcade platform is free on Steam (2 tables free: Arabian Nights (not a bad pin IMO) and random Table of the month), and F14 Tomcat is listed in the Season 5 Pack of 11 tables for $30. $40 for Pro Pack (Operator menu / game configuration access).
Standard link
Pro link
See if she's agreeable to that, or surprise her.
Table looks fun on YT gameplay vids.
There was a discussion on rgp last year about this ornament. Some people were able to find them listed at a decent price on ebay.
There's currently one listed for sale here. If you google the name of the product—1996 Hallmark Pinball Wonder—you should be able to find a few more vendors.
These started in the late 90s - there was The Web, Timeshock!, Big Race USA, and Fantastic Journey.
And it seems there's a Timeshock! revival in development.
The "speech" ROMs have CVSD encoded audio onboard. It's a matter of using the right tooling in order to dump the raw audio frames to an audio manipulation suite. I use ye olde sox.
If you want to work on your mental game I'd suggest this book.
https://www.amazon.com/Inner-Game-Tennis-Classic-Performance/dp/0679778314
You can almost just replace tennis with pinball and it's still very accurate. The book applies to just about any sport.
I came up with it all as I went. Building a full size machine made me able to work with alot of room. I have built several PC's before so all of that was easy.
​
The hardest part was getting the screens to work with each other. That was just some internal settings I had not ever had to mess with before. There is a video for every problem you would encounter. Quite a few resources out there.
I use this one. Built a racing drone with it and I've soldered a few things on pinball machines too. https://www.amazon.com/TasiHome-Temperature-Adjustment-Electronic-Eliminating/dp/B013JM4AW4
$17. It's no Hakko, but if you are looking for a good budget option this might fit the bill.
I think the 74125N is okay. This is what I buy: https://www.jameco.com/shop/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=46501
And this is the Nano I've used most recently: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Arduino-ATmega328P-Without-Compatible/dp/B0713XK923/
What machine are you planning to revise?
Alternatively, if you don't want to do batteries, you could get a 6v power supply and wire in a barrel connector. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/inShareplus-Voltage-Transformer-100-240V-Connector/dp/B01GCI94RI
One of these would work: https://smile.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Holder-Switch-Leads/dp/B07L9M6VZK
Has a power switch and provides 6V via 4 AA batteries.
Hey, thanks for the feedback.
For the resolution and key bindings: In your Steam library, right-click "Pinball Deluxe: Reloaded" and select "Properties". In the menu that just opened click the button "Set Launch Options" and enter -show-screen-selector. I think I'll show that by default in the release version, it is just that it doesn't look very good/professional.
[There actually is an Android]version(https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.greencod.pinballdeluxereloaded)
Stern Pinball Arcade is the same game as The Pinball Arcade but with different tables. The tables included in Stern are newer tables not in the original Pinball Arcade (people call it TPA) and a few tables that are actually already in TPA, like Frankenstein and Last Action Hero. TPA can be found on steam, android, and loads of other platforms. It has a TON of tables. Here's the steam page. The issue that has just come up is the licensing of the older tables from Williams/Bally. It will lose all these tables in a month or so, which is a huge blow to the community.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "Pro"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Nice. So what you can do is buy the foam/felt furniture movers (link below) and put them under each leg. This way you can slide or move the game once it's set up. Plus there is an added bonus that you can turn/twist the levelers without having to lift the machine.
https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Sliders-Hardwood-Floors-X-PROTECTOR/dp/B07WH29NBD?th=1
All LEDs of the same style are basically the same regardless of where you buy them. Comet Pinball has a very good selection of unique bulbs and low prices. Don't buy the cheapest 1LED bulbs and don't buy all one type of bulb or your game will look worse than it did originally.
Rubbers are pretty much rubbers, there's an in depth post on current rubber manufacturing here. Your alternative to traditional rubber is Titan Pinball competition rubbers, which a lot of people like.
People will be happy to answer specific technical questions but you might have better luck on pinside with that.
Maybe you could convince your boss to pay you to shadow the tech when he’s there and start to learn some basic repairs. That will go along towards keeping most machines playable and then the tech can work on bigger problems.
But this book of you don’t have it. It’s very general but is a good intro to care and maintenance.
https://www.amazon.com/Pinball-Machine-Maintenance-Bernard-Kamoroff/dp/0917510135
One other thing I would suggest is test leads with clips for testing header pins. You have jumpers with alligator clips, but you need smaller for testing .100 pins. Priceless for determining if a switch matrix issue on a WPC game is on the CPU board, or on the playfield/ coin door.
This is easily fixed with a little adhesive silicon dot on the front edge roof of the building. Something like this.
Ahhh I see what you mean about the wild bouncing. There are ways to stop the ball from being unpredictable even as it's flying everywhere. When I first started playing, I didn't understand that nudging wasn't just about shaking the machine back and forth, that you could also bang your palm down on the corner or lockdown bar and have the ball slow down from the sharp hit. It wasn't until I was able to watch very high-level players in competition that I saw them giving the side rail a well-timed whack as the ball approached the outlane, in order to keep it from draining. The same technique can be used to stop the forward motion of a ball flying around the playfield, with the caveat that every machine is different from every other machine, even from machines of the same make and model. They're like little electromechanical snowflakes. So in general you must take practice rounds in real life to get a feel for a machine on location, see how it bounces off the bumpers, the slings, etc. There's an old out of print book about the physics of pinball that I think you would really appreciate, if you can get your hands on one:
Pinball Wizardry: The Theory and Practice of the Art and Science of Pinball - about $180 on Amazon
This book is stupid expensive because every pinhead is out there looking for a copy. I found one on eBay for about $50 after a few months of searching. It's full of diagrams about flipper angles and ball trajectories, it's very cool and explains a lot.
Clean with Novus, wax with your favorite wax.
I used Mill Wax for ages, then switched to this stuff-- it's incredibly easy to work with, leaves a glossy finish, and is easy to clean up.
Narrow tip won't hold the clip as well, make it more likely to fly across the room.
I rebuilt the drop target bank on a Kiss today, which reminded me that they're offset (angled). Like below...
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W30732-Curved-Pliers/dp/B000N34924/
Even with these pliers, you should still assume an occasional clip will go flying, never to be seen again. Have extras. All the big hardware stores carry them. I believe 3/8" are a common size. Snap ring tool won't work.
Why does the wider tip work better on these tiny things?
Is this tool designed for c-clips or something else (snap rings)?
Outus 104 Pieces Cello Sheets Cellophane Wraps for Gel Light Filter Plastic Sheet (Multicolor, 11 x 8.5 Inch)
That really looks like where the wall voltage comes into the line filter:
https://imgur.com/a/qYY79TF
In which case, that makes the component the 1V1 Varistor (130V, I'm assuming).
This one might do?
https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-NTE1V130-Varistor-Diameter/dp/B0002FRNKS
From Google:
Varistors are used to protect a circuit from high voltage surges. When a high voltage surge is applied to a circuit, the outcome is usually catastrophic to the circuit. A capacitor may be installed across the signal lines. However, this capacitor cannot suppress voltage surges.
So, they would blow from high voltage but they can also just go bad if they're old.
I'd recommend getting a solder station, preferably one with a solder sucker like this one.
I have a soft spot for the 90s data east tables, the art work and gameplay is top notch IMO.
I have 4 x Dayton 58 flat packs: Dayton Audio DAEX58FP Flat Pack 58mm Exciter 25W 8 Ohm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CWEJJ9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_CSQQV5G1EDDXRVP30TBD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
2 x 3.1 lepai amps: Mini HiFi Stereo 2.1 Channel Audio Amplifier for Home Car Marine Subwoofer Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HN53NBD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_96J3VQR0V2XMP6VAGPTC
Cant remember which bass shaker I got but the Dayton mimi 8ohm is close.
And a standard Logitech 3.1 speaker system for the backglass.
I cant remember exactly how I set things up software wise as it's been over a year, but thumpSSF is a must. There's also a FB group dedicated to ssf which can help with any questions
Heh, thanks! The tumbler does a lot of the work :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TTILBC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
^The kit and media I used.
I use Novus 2 instead of the wax they provided. Apply with the media in the tumbler and run for 24 hours :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TTILBC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Everything you need is included and it's easy to assemble!
Run it for 24 hours and you'll love the results.
Oof, know that feeling. Get one of these magnetic wand things, I had one come with a tool set and it's been a life saver fishing screws out from the bottom of a machine.
Very neat. I look forward to the photo post!
I'm amazed that there isn't a planned Labo for pinball...only a matter of time.
Why not message Nintendo and suggest it.
Here's a labo grass hopper https://kotaku.com/nintendo-switch-joy-con-controllers-make-excellent-gras-1822290143
Google Books has it
Wow, that guy's video is amazing... any info on the rig he has set up? Obviously he has the glass off which helps, but also makes the game noisier.
yea, this was a test... here's the second video that was saved by twitch... see if that's any better, although it may not be
https://www.twitch.tv/mystickrewe/v/58457593
I think one issue may be that I am not using a premium twitch account so the framerate and resolution may be throttled? I'm also aware that with more light on the playfield, I could get the cameras to perform better. There's definitely some kind of balance between making the game look authentic and proper lighting to videotape.
I'm not looking to disparage anyone unfairly. i had researched the issue and found a couple resources which pointed to the Real Time Clock Issue.
Here is at least 1 post from rec.games.pinall which talk about the clock issue. Fred Kemper also confirmed the issue via email when I was trying to figure out the issues:
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec.games.pinball/eHq8r493XEs/47CuqM3QBygJ
They also made a Pinball Hall of Fame: Gottelib Collection for the Wii, Xbox360 and PS3
It's not as good as the Williams collection but it's available for cheap, has a few awesome tables like Goin Nuts and Tee'd Off , Central Park, and Victory and even one called PlayBoy an old flipperless one. There's even an old photo tour of the Chicago factory. It's worth the $ for Going Nuts alone which never made it into production.
This thread had everthing that I needed to know.
If you want to remove the DMD windows borders and windows titel bar, you can use Actual Window Manager (http://www.actualtools.com/windowmanager/download/). Just add the DotMatrix Window to the list of special windows and set it to remove everything under the main window settings.
7 venues over a Friday night and weekend. Hundreds of machines, all private collections, not open to the public, and all free to a decent group of NZers and Australians. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
Just in case you needed the Google Meet link or for anyone else.
http://meet.google.com/wdk-hngr-ktu
This is all you need. Will go live around 9pm ET.
I say give it a shot! I built a dozen of these things by hand before I designed PCBs. It really doesn't take that long. Here's the schematic for REV3:
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BallySternOS/BallySternOS/master/Schematics/BSOSV3-Schematic.png
You don't need to wire up H2 (there's nothing you need to plug into it).
And you technically don't have to wire every address line, just A0, A1, A3, A4, A7, A9 and A12. You can just leave the rest of the address lines unconnected.
Then, you plug in one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M3WV6LX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are even less than I remembered (2 speakers) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UAFSN5O/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_dl_XH090PQ2JSAK0HHRJT87?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (Sub) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KP1786M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_B5ENGXGNDJ6SJ048NMWF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Nice! Since your going empty wide body, you got it made. I used some instructions online and sometimes went off the other pins I own. The one thing I really like, which may seem trivial, but I love the feel of these buttons because they are all digital. I actually bought extras, just in case I might need them in the future. Other than that, I truly feel you’ll be up and running in no time. It’s one of those things that came into my life and I “tinker” with it on a daily basis. Having the power to change the back glass, make your own back glass, change the songs, etc etc. is really enjoyable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ4HQV6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_7PA4WEDD1BZ1MRDJFA5T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you can make the cart portion on the cheap, here's a low cost lift to start with.
I got a couple messages asking how I did it. Here’s a quick run down, it is fairly easy to install
This is the light: Xprite Red Blue 240 LED Emergency... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FDNDONE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The light is meant to run off a car lighter, so you will have to get an AC to DC converter. Also I believe the voltage to the dome is 26vAC and the light runs off of 12vDC. So I used this
Step Down Voltage Convertor, AC... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TJQZZG5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Take apart the lighter plug connect the red wire to the yellow, black to black. Then the two red wires hook to the two wires running to the light unit plug.
i was almost going to get the Haako. I am sure it is worth it to some. I probably do a bit of soldering maybe once a week so I figured I didn't need anything too expensive, just better than what I had. I figured that they do most soldering in China and I could probably get a pretty cheap but good iron without breaking the bank. I got one with replaceable tips on Amazon for like $25 and it works fine for me and I consider it a great purchase. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCVCHJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Yes. I made another comment but maybe you didnt we it. It's free on android if you download William's pinball by zen studios. You can pick one free machine. Medieval madness is on there. I play it every day on my phone however I still prefer it on my pc when I get home on pinball fx3 but free is free .
Here is the link https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.zenstudios.williamspinball
Enjoy!
I bought one of these on a sale https://www.amazon.com/UBeesize-Extendable-Bluetooth-Aluminum-Lightweight/dp/B07NWC3L95/
It works fine enough for doing short little clips, but ideally you get something much taller to go over the top of the machine. A friend of mine has a web cam attached to a 2x4, which he then attaches to the top of back box with some wood working clamps
I've been using the Harper Trucks 6781 for years, it really works well and has held up through moving a lot more than pinball machines. The stair climber is a must if you'll ever be moving one by yourself.
You can do 4, maybe 5 games (modern pins) on a power strip, each power strip on a 15 Amp circuit. Then, to avoid running around and switching power strips, add remotes to switch the power strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NPB8LYL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Inexpensive and easy to use compared to WIFI and smart outlets. They have four buttons on each remote, but only three switch modules in each package, but they are so cheap I bought a lot. You can set up each remote to do four groups. If one gives you trouble, swap it for another. Then you can turn them on/off in groups. I also control lights and neons with the modules.
Problems I have had: Switch module not getting signal: move module or remote. Switch module not turning off games because the relay inside won't release: tap it with a stick (I'm not kidding) or replace with a different module. Programming consists of turning two rotary switches on each switch module.
Electrically speaking, the games don't see a difference between their internal switch or the external.
Enjoy!
I have multiple pairs of something like this strung all over my basement ceiling:
I say "something like this" because there are a billion different brands that look the same. Mine have four colors, white, blue, red, green. The white is nice for basic lighting, it helps you see the tables without being overwhelming. Blue is great for bringing out UV colors, which a lot of pinballs have. Red puts things into better focus but is really dark for room lighting. And green is just horrible, washes out the pinball colors and makes a room look post-nuclear.
Dude it's super easy. I haven't looked up to see if this is the best method for woz but it worked great on the other two I mentioned. Just unplug the cable them plug this in with it. Done https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=ground&dchild=1&keywords=ground&pd_rd_i=B019393MV2&pd_rd_r=9ce77dec-161c-4413-8713-1af04a4f6236&pd_rd_w=pAkF3&pd...
Also I am a junky for replacing loud fans. I do it on every spike and spike 2 game I have owned and also did it on my JJP games. My game room is also my office so I am not a fan of those loud fans behind my desk.
Another good thing to have for setting up your power distribution is a Kill-a-Watt meter that plugs into the wall, then you plug the load (pins) into it. https://www.amazon.com/P3-International-P4460-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B000RGF29Q/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=killawatt&qid=1594923110&sr=8-9Will tell you the line voltage, and the power being drawing (Amps, Watts). After checking one circuit, you can unplug it and move it to another circuit. It is code to only load circuits up to 80% or so of the circuit's rating. This protects your wiring from overheating.
If you search digital counter board, amazon pops up with this 4 digit display (about 7.5cm long)that comes with some wires. It’s pretty inexpensive at less than $30 CAD. Something like that would work I think. Not too sure how I’d get it to work I’d have to order it and play around with it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Red-LED-4-Digital-Digital-Counter/dp/B00CB9ZXBO
>3/8"-16 x 2-1/2"
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolts-Lengths-Listing-Screws-8-16x2-1/dp/B01IIOQJ2W
I find stuff like this, which is Amazon Global and sourced in the USA. I've asked local hardware stores and they dont stock them exactly.
Get an external light. Very important. NEEWER 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EfR3CbY5M4H77
Outside of that I run an i7 computer with video card, 3 Sony handy cams with Elgato Cam Link capture devices, and a blue snowball mic. Do not get the ice snowball, that one stinks. This stream is every cam set to 1080p 60 FPS with my computer outputting 1080/60 FPS. Hope that helps!
At the Grand Ole Expo in Nashville, there were plastic step stools there for little people:
https://i.imgur.com/DvGagq4.jpg
They might have those at Southern Fried as well.
If you want a folding version, there are these: https://www.amazon.com/Unity-Non-Slip-Foldable-Carrying-Handle/dp/B072JGBVMS/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1516601279&sr=1-9&keywords=folding+step+stool
I use stepladders like this. Anything over 26" should work: https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-FS1502-Fiberglass-Ladder-2-Step/dp/B000KL0ZU4/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1514835917&sr=8-37&keywords=stepladder
Lets me lift up the end and rest the table on the top. Excellent for loading in and out of trucks too. I typically only use one and do two legs at a time but it's definitely possible to put the whole table up on two of them.
From the factory, the nuts on the leveler are 5/8. But if you buy the nuts at the hardware store, they're 9/16. You may also want a 3/8 wrench for moving the leveler itself if it's not too damaged (which it usually is). If it won't move, it's vise grip time, and I wouldn't recommend that on the floor of a pizza joint.
I use this wrench because it is both 5/8 and 9/16, guaranteeing I'll be able to move the locking nut. After you move the leveler, you tighten the nut against the bottom of the leg to make it stay there. It's a good wrench and it says Williams right on it. https://www.amazon.com/Williams-1727-Double-Wrench-8-Inch/dp/B002M1CMY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497374969&sr=8-1&keywords=williams+5%2F8+9%2F16
Is this the thing you're talking about: DeoxIT® DN5 Mini-Spray, nonflammable 5% solution 14 g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RGD9PK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9LuhzbHEPA02V
And just to be clear, I switch off the machine, spray this thing on the volume control stick thing and slowly turn it around, let it dry then switch the machine back on? Sorry I'm not a very handy person.
Ha, well you'll discover within a year or two that every mainstream TV news segment or print article about pinball will reference this song when they discuss pinball. Non-pinheads that find out you are into pinball will jokingly call you Tommy and get a shit eating grin on their face like they are comedic geniuses. It gets old real fast.
I'm listen to a lot of music, and it is pretty pathetic how weak the music culture surrounding pinball is. We have The Who and Barenaked Ladies. Makes me want to ram a plunger rod into my ears.
There is this garage rock compilation album about pinball that isn't too bad - https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Pinball-Rock-Vol-1/dp/B00004THNV
Found 'em: Bike repair stand