What are /r/trucksim's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

A few friends and I tried Convoy recently.

Teleporting to the service station they were waiting at, it spawned me inside of a friend. It sent me flying with a peak of 33069 km/h xD

https://medal.tv/clips/65045740/d13377Kk1JXK?invite=cr-MSxSVGYsMjU2MzMwNDUs

PSA: if you have the other map expansion DLCs, you can get Italy DLC for $15.29 (–15%) by completing the Map Booster Bundle.

That is one cool looking piece of hardware I didn't know I needed. Amazon link for anyone interested , all I'd need is a steering wheel, nice shifter, and that and I'd be pretty much set for a nice cockpit setup.

If you liked what you've learned from ETS2, I've got some suggestions for other games that you can learn a lot from. They're not trucking related, though, but all of them have a moderate to steep learning curve:

Kerbal Space Program - Like the name suggests, it's a space simulator. Learn some orbital mechanics. You'll never look at space the same again.
Unreal World - Life in tribal Finland isn't easy or friendly. The game is not forgiving, but once you've got the hang of things, you get to realizing how hard it must have been to live a primal life.
Dwarf Fortress - There is simply no game with more depth and detail to it. Or more of a bitch of a learning curve. I'll leave the details of how deep it goes, but you can learn a lot about geology and rock types. That probably sounds stupid as all hell, but really this is a fun game on many levels. It helped me a lot in my earth science class when we were required to identify over 70 different rock types.
Farming Simulator 2013 or 2015 - The closest to ETS2 here. The name says it all. Another one of those games that it sounds boring as can be, but you're burning away hours locked in doing otherwise repetitive tasks.
Space Chem - Okay, it's not real chemistry. But it's fun to see yourself start to build these chemicals. Then start to combine them or split them with others. A puzzle game that can get really brutal.

I've got a lot of other games I'd suggest, but they don't really allow much in teaching (like X3: Albion Prelude, which is really cool, but you won't take anything from it).

I found a video from when i saw a truck like this.

Because I wasn't able to stop at a truck stop and wanted a shower. Usually, but not always, it's at a Walmart and I get two gallon jugs. One for soak, then scrub, then the second for rinse.

Later on I bought something similar to this which I use mostly for dishes now.

The video was okay, I didn't like that there was echo in the background but that's something you can fix later with some editing in Audacity and having some sound dampening material. The game quality was what I expected, that's how it looks like on my rig. I assume you used a webcam to record yourselves, I recommend getting a DSLR to get better quality. I also noticed that you used some free-trial capture software, I recommend using OBS to record the game/screen and that way you won't have that watermark at the centre-top and can record longer videos. To be fair I have a feeling that she didn't get briefed about the game and how to control it beforehand, but I think that was intentional because that's the video you wanted to make, fair enough I guess. It would've been easier if she used a controller instead of KB&M when playing ETS2 and you can do the same as well if you do have a controller.

Do with this feedback as you see fit. Personally I didn't enjoy well that's not entirely true, I thought it was okay. If you do plan on uploading videos regularly then I do recommend that you take my feedback into account.

Well, I think this post is getting too long so I'll leave it as is, thanks for sharing.

The amp is this little Suca Audio M-98E Pro that I picked up on amazon. It does the job but I think you can do a little better with an SMSL or similar.
It's just a USB volume knob sitting on top, I think the current price is about $10 more than I paid for it last summer tho.

Cool!

Me myself use Sim Dashboard on a tablet. Works very well and easy to setup. And Very customizable.

https://www.stryder-it.de/simdashboard/

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.stryder_it.simdashboard

G920 link: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Dual-motor-Feedback-Driving-Responsive/dp/B00Z0UWV98

These are the successor to the G27, which used to be a highly recommended wheel. For $200, that's a good price. CCC says it's about as low as it's ever been on amazon.

Why tho? ...well, I guess you have your reasons, sane or not :)

I don't think there's a way to downgrade in steam, unless the developer has it in the "beta channel". Wouldn't count on it tho.

I'd say just get it on dvd from amazon or such, seems like the disk version is 1.0.5, which I'd assume is very close to the initial release version (if not it, even). https://www.amazon.com/Euro-Truck-Simulator-2-PC/dp/B006NU6F28 I don't see a mention of it requiring steam either.

If getting into driving sims, I'd highly recommend budgeting for a decent wheel and pedals too. They can raise the price quite a bit (even more than a bare minimum PC) but make it much more immersive.

ATS is pretty forgiving on computer Specs. Something like This would run it easily.

You can check for cheaper prices on this website:

https://gg.deals/game/american-truck-simulator/

You can get it for $6 on Kinguin, but if you scroll down there is a graph with price history and you will see it goes on sale very, very often. So buying it at full price isn't really a good idea, unless of course you want to support the creators - SCS Software. But in such case, I would look into other stores (maybe Humble Store), because Steam takes a huge piece of the money, like 30%, while Humble onle 10% (I could be wrong, check yourself).

In order to patch your game, you should go to this link.

Mods are compatible regardless of your steam or store-bought version. Installation should be the same; drag the mod file into the mod folder, activate it, and you're done.

You should be able to download and install the multiplayer-mod just fine..

By default, the predefined profiles expect a triple monitor setup, per this help page on the official ETS2 website:

http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com/multimon_config.php

This part seems particularly relevant:

>The game supports several built-in modes. Those modes are selected using r_multimon_mode cvar. Note that all built in-modes expect at least three monitors and will actually enabled only when the resolution has aspect ratio of at least 2.5:1.

It's probably possible for you to setup a dual monitor arrangement, but it would require fiddling with the various configs mentioned on that webpage so that your primary monitor faces straight forward, and your second monitor faces either left or right at an angle, depending on whether you drive on the left or right side (assuming you want your secondary monitor to look out across the cab to the opposite window so you can see the side mirror and so forth).

So, your choice: find some time and room to setup that third monitor for a more plug-and-play experience, or fiddle with config files and so forth.

BTW, in the future, try giving the search bar a shot. This is not the first time the question has been asked and answered: https://www.reddit.com/r/trucksim/search?q=dual+monitor&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all

There is a better (technical) solution to your problem than splitting your time (and thereby halving your in-game progress) between two game profiles (sorry /u/38673041). Here it is: your control configs are stored in a file called controls.sii. It's located here:

My Documents\Euro Truck Simulator 2\profile\PROFILE_ID\controls.sii

You can maintain multiple copies of this file, each configured for as many controllers as you like, and just copy them into place depending on which controller you want to use.

Example:

Make sub-folders under your PROFILE_ID folder and call one "Wheel" and the other "Gamepad." Next, start ETS2 and adjust your settings for the wheel, save/exit the game and then copy the controls.sii file into the Wheel sub-folder. Repeat the process for the gamepad, and copy the newly modified controls.sii file into the Gamepad folder. Then, depending on which controller you want to use, go into either of the sub-folders and just copy the one you want into place under the main PROFILE_ID directory. Make sense?

More details here (check the configuration file section in particular):

http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com/input_config.php#configuration_file

Sure, paint.net.

And the empty map is here:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Empty_Political_Map_of_Europe_iso3166-1.png

BTW if you tell me the countries and prices I could just add them to my map, no problem.

Hi! This truck is from Kishadowalker. He built this project from the ground up and created the model/parts himself. Really awesome Mack Superliner.

Here's the link: https://sellfy.com/kishadowalker/p/mack-superliner/

Not sure if this will work, but another plausible workaround would be to use AutoHotKey, and set up the left stick as a mouse, and then use mouse steering in the game. When you move the stick, it should move the mouse.

Here's a good starting point. Remove the mappings from the other buttons, and make adjustments to the sensitivity as needed.

Edit: Out of curiosity, I've been working on this for the last hour or so, and it's not looking that good. Speed and linearity is a bit of an issue I've been trying to figure out, as is centering after a turn. It doesn't feel right to move all the way to the left just to center from a right turn. I previously used auto-centering (which is not available with mouse steering), so it felt natural to ease in and out from the turning direction. I also had to map the rest of the keyboard controls with AutoHotKey since Controller + Mouse isn't an in-game option (naturally), which ended up turning the gas and brakes into buttons (W+S) instead of axis. That might be fixable though. I'll keep experimenting.

My G29 does the exact same, I haven't been able to find a solution within Logitech Gaming Software, but I found that Joy2Key is a good work around. You just assign the buttons on the wheel to a certain key on the keyboard and it works as a macro.

I know its not the best solution but its the only one I've found and it works really well.

I've got a whole lot of mods going on here. The trailer is Kishadowalker's Steerable Dolly. It isn't updated for 1.35, but using 1.35 and DX11 the only problem I've noticed is that the metallic paintjobs don't work. Everything else still works fine. The rear-steer works great - I think this trailer is easier to manuever than a standard 53' trailer! There air lines are there, all the cargo actually appears, unlike some trailers that haven't been updated for some time. I just wish there were options/spots for custom side lighting, and I wish there were more cities that had cargo available for pick-up/delivery (I'd say it's less that 50% of cities at the moment, plus you can deliver to Oregon, but there's no cargo for this trailer to pick up in Oregon), but those aren't really problems inherent to the trailer itself.

As for the truck itself, check my history for the recent post about garbage trucks in Vegas for a list of all of those mods.

http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com/input_config.php

Lots of details here, though they are for ETS2, they still apply (for the most part) for ATS.

For ETS2 I've created a custom layout for my TH8A where I can use all 7 forward gears, plus reverse. I have gears 1 / 3 / 5 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / R mapped... as I find I never need 11 or 12 to cruise at full highway speeds.

For ATS because the larger (16 position gear box) I need to make another custom layout... ~~I'm currently thinking that will be 2 / 5 / 8 / 11 / 13 / 15 / 16 / R.~~ (EDIT) I've settled on 1 / 4 / 7 / 10 / 12 / 14 / 15 / R. I found there can be lots of hill starts on freeway exits, and gear 16 wasn't as important for cruising at 55 MPH in either truck.

It takes a little while to understand this configuration... but I find it more convenient than using the range selector or splitter modes.

See here for explanation with diagrams. You don't have to get into all the advanced technical stuff further down the page. When you get your G27, just run the in-game setup wizard and choose according to your preferences.

Have you run through the in-game controller setup wizard? It will help setup transmission mode, shifter layout, and other button bindings.

Last I checked, the G29 does not include a shifter in the standard package. It's an extra add-on purchased separately. Without one, you will have to either use automatic transmission or bind a simple 2-button combo of shift-up and shift-down to the shifter paddles or other buttons on your wheel.

More info here on the shifter (official website): http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com/input_config.php

It looks like the only thing different is the layout of the sleeper, fuel tanks and some misc accessories. It'd probably be pretty easy to change that stuff for someone experienced in doing that sort of thing.

Alternatively, you could download Blender and the tools SCS has made for it and give it a go.

Actually posting text would've been better Dan...

TruckersMP has sent the data of the forum database leak to https://haveibeenpwned.com

Search your email and username. If you're on there - change all passwords.

This was the database leak back in February.

+1 Kudos to the Admins for willingly sending it to them. -1 Kudos to me finding this out by third party and not this site itself.

I use an app called Macro Deck and give it some controls which I wouldn't have otherwise, you need to make sure its being run as an administrator or it can't control the game though. Its very similar to an elgato streamdeck, except its an app for a (preferrably) unused/old phone or tablet https://www.macrodeck.org/

Totally free

Exactly what I was going to say. I've had Logitech DFGT, G27 & G29. I now have a Thrustmaster T300 and LOVE it. I got mine for iRacing so I use a F1 wheel, which is odd for ATS but I love all the buttons. On Amazon there is a T150 with 3 pedal set for 245. I personally would suggest the Thrustmaster if the extra money isn't too much.

T150

Unfortunately the Thrustmaster shifter I see on Amazon is 254 or some crazy stuff. The Logitech shifter, which requires a Logitech wheel I believe, is 55. Soo......

I bought a relatively inexpensive strand from Ali and it's well-suited for the Truckulator. It might not be stiff enough for racing/rally sims but it's been wonderful for this. It's easy enough to move out if the way when I'm not drivng. It shipped from the US and arrived in just a couple days... But hmm I don't see it listed...

Same one on Amazon for $15 more than it was: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077PZKNDH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JY14RFFVKZVQ4VBGPJC9

Its an app I have called SIM Dashboard. I pull it up on my phone and open the program on my computer, it detects what I'm playing and switches to that profile automatically in the app. You can customize it as much as you want(if you have the paid version). You can ad gauges, warning lights, buttons that you can program, game information ect. Here is a screen shot of the one I set up.

https://www.amazon.com/S18-18-Speed-Truck-Shifter-Logitech/dp/B07P7C63F7/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=s18-18+speed+truck+sim+shifter+mod&qid=1609960863&sprefix=s18-18&sr=8-2

Found this while scrolling Amazon. I haven’t bought it yet, but the reviews are pretty positive and it’s only $35. This is probably what I’ll go with.

Here you go. Also I am using the beta version of FaceTrackNoIR, so I don't even know if it'll be useful to you. Let me know if it doesn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WY9RS69?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It's that wheel attached to the fanatec universal hub on a CSW 2.5. I had all the gear from sim racing, but recently attached the wheel pictured. It has been fun to use.

I just searched to see where you could still buy the G27 and came across this lol

https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-941-000045-G27-Racing-Wheel/dp/B001NT9TK4

That price lmao

Tbh If I was gonna get my kid truck jammies, first of all I'd go for one with a "Big Rig" on it not a "Monster Truck", additionally I won't get ones that are specific to one time of the year that they WILL grow out of before the next reasonable time to wear them (though thanks for the heads up for people who click links "blindly")

sadly not my size, as I'd actually wear them :P https://www.amazon.com/Leveret-Trailer-Piece-Pajama-Cotton/dp/B073DHZ9FZ

I tried this with 2 different switches. Both of them failed within a month or 2. I decided to try this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TQZTH7Y?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details) instead. Still waiting for it to ship from China

I am using a Logitech G920 set. The only driving I do is ATS and ETS2 so it's fine for that. Since i use paddle shifters I ordered this today and will stick a velcro pad on the bottom and the matching pad on the shifter stand.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09L84C2WX/

If you've got carpet where it's going, if you didn't the locking roller blade style casters I recommend those as they are easier to move around then standard chair ones on carpet. Or even something like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHPFRD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1, that's what I ran on mine for a bit (but it was on hardwood).

Might not even have to find an old monitor/tv with a fresnel layer. Cheap enough so if they aren't quite right you won't be out much.

https://www.amazon.com/11-75-Fresnel-Magnifier-Projection-PREMIUM/dp/B00IITFX02

https://www.amazon.com/Position-Momentary-Monolever-Joystick-HKD-FW24/dp/B07T4ZY5BV

That is not the seller I bought from. It is the same joystick though. I bought 2 and mounted one on each side of the g29.

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

The zero delay usb encoder have a few different looks. As long as the have “zero delay usb encoder” its almost 99.9%the right one.

Message me if you want to know a few tips if you want/get the board

I was tired of not having a turn signal switch so I bought this atari-style (c64, I think, actually) joystick from amazon and used some industrial-strength 3M-brand velcro (the stiff, hard plastic kind) to stick it to my G29.

Works pretty good. I wish it were an inch closer to the wheel so I could reach it without letting go of the wheel so much but then it would block the paddle, which I use for my airhorn.

Still. Happy with the outcome for < $20 USD. Thought I'd pass along the idea.

Could you elaborate? what is bad? The next best thing seems to be something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/THRUSTMASTER-TMST4169080-Playstation4-Playstation3-Racing/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=racing+steering+wheel+pc&amp;qid=1660332050&amp;sprefix=racing+steering+wheel%2Caps%2C81&amp;sr=8-5

Which is $100 more, I don't want to to overspend if I can help it.

So for the drive you’ll probably need to get a bracket like this, because SSDs are smaller than full size hard drives like what you’re using (and from what I can tell that machine is meant to have the larger size only). You can screw the SSD onto that bracket, and then attach the bracket in the drive bay where the current hard drive is. The cable connections are identical and plug in the same way. Keep in mind you’ll probably need to find a way to migrate your data to the new drive, since your machine only seems to support one hard drive at a time, as well as a way to install the operating system.

For the memory, the sticks have stickers on them with part numbers. If you go on Amazon you can see what comes up if you search for the same part number (often Lenovo likes to use sticks made by Samsung or SKHynix).

For the graphics card, you have to be careful of two things mainly: the length and the wattage. You’ll want to take measurements of what you have, and look at the power supply’s wattage to avoid getting something that it won’t be able to power. Also take note of what connectors it has, as the power supply has to have enough “PCIe connectors” to fill whatever the GPU has (2 8-pins, or 1 6-pin and 1 8-pin, for instance).

I highly recommend heading over to r/BuildAPC or a similar subreddit for additional help if you need it. They have helpful information for beginners on their wiki by the looks of it. Hope that gets you where you need to go (and of course, if all of this seems too intimidating, you can always look for something prebuilt instead if you have the budget). Maybe you’ll learn a thing or two along the way!

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Shifter-Replacement-Logitech-Thrustmaster-EasyJakeBrake-Windows/dp/B07DVW2WYK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=skrs+shifter&amp;qid=1658963035&amp;sprefix=skrs%2Caps%2C80&amp;sr=8-3

Both sellers "SimuRide" and "Gitolo" seem to be the same thing -- this is the APlusB Software shifter with an EasyJake switch on it. Based on an aftermarket MAN shifter, but works fine for ATS as well as ETS2. I've had mine since 2020 and never had any problems -- other than, like a lot of Arduino-based devices, it might prevent the computer from going to sleep. Just unplug it when it's not in use.

Yeah that always annoyed me too setting up my wheel, pedals and shifter every time I wanted to play then taking it down and putting it away when I was done, eventually I bought a wheel stand that folds up. Makes life sim life a little easier, when not in use I lean it on a wall then just slide it into position, unfold it wheel, pedals, shifter are always attached so just have to connect the USBs and power cord which I don't mind.

There's plenty of stands, but that's just the one I have.

It’s this one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Marada-Racing-Adjustable-Slide-Black/dp/B0876NQ72X/ref=mp_s_a_1_13_sspa?crid=ZG1HGL70F0LR&amp;keywords=racing+seat&amp;qid=1653859262&amp;sprefix=racing+seat%2Caps%2C745&amp;sr=8-13-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhb...

It’s ok. The lever for the slider is a little far out and there is no lumbar support. I will eventually buy a nicer one, but it’s good for now.

It was a lot I bought off Amazon that comes with the base and the brackets. They have a video that walks you through the whole process. It’s pretty solid and there is no wiggle. Not sure if links are allowed but this is the one I’m using.

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Racing-Inverted-Logitech-PlayStation-4/dp/B07SPHCLSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=36PK3D5KX5SW6&amp;keywords=inverted+pedal+kit&amp;qid=1653842700&amp;sprefix=incerted+pedal%2Caps%2C85&amp;sr=8-2

It's just a basic set screw. Something like this kit I'm not sure if it's a metric or ASE screw though so a kit that'd have both types would be better.

I got this one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08WX14CMM

Curved, 165hz, 1ms response, HDR. I have had no problems in about 3 months. Even my old GTX970 was ok, I expected FPS to go down.

Agreed! Here is a cheap and range/splitter add-on for the G29 and G902. I've had this one since 2019 and it works really well, plus it's easy to put on and off if you don't need it for different games.

Michelin sells them on amazon : https://www.amazon.com/MICHELIN-330102-Male/dp/B0752DYTRD/ref=pd\_bxgy\_img\_1/141-8962675-0681441?pd\_rd\_w=N0HXl&amp;pf\_rd\_p=6b3eefea-7b16-43e9-bc45-2e332cbf99da&amp;pf\_rd\_r=MJ9SJHJVYBS0BD1302RS&amp;pd\_rd\_r=1cb2f9cd-dedc-4be7-b452-ee68dd69...

Real life is that way sometimes. Thanks to a short tunnel being rebuilt closing 5 blocks in Kingfisher, Oklahoma, and all the city streets except the state highways prohibiting through traffic, the official detour is over an hour, and 119km, long.

There are plenty of options you can look at, both purchased and DIY.

Personally I have a sim rig so everything is physically mounted in place but prior to that I used a pedal mount from Pein Gear.

For DIY you can just mount the pedals to a wooden board and place rubber pads underneath to help keep it in place.

I would assume the bundle isn't listed as Mac compatible because it contains games that only run on Windows.

Anyhow, a good place to look for deals is http://isthereanydeal.com . AFAIK they only link to legit resellers, and have price histories so you know how good a deal you're getting.

I 84 Westbound with triples would take on a whole new element on a stormy day. Driving down this, where you'd likely end up covered by the 18 mph speed limit, followed shortly by the challenge of dealing with triples trying to go all windsock on a wet freeway hanging over the river would be a whiteknuckle way to get to Portland.

Correct. Quite possibly the most absurd load I ever took was on a Sunday. It was a roughly 20 pound box of flash frozen chicken delivered from NORPAC Foods to a pizza resaurant in Brookings (can't remember the name) on a 4 hour deadline. Fare was $2,100. After expenses, I pocketed about $1,900 for a little under 4 hours work.

That wasn't an easy job, I had to drive down from Portland to get there first, and NORPAC didn't have the chicken packed or frozen, so I had to wait for them to pack and flashfreeze it for the trip first, so by the time I picked it up I had just over 3 hours left and I made the normally 6 hour trip in just under 3 hours (good time considering that US 199 was a reversing 1 lane road controlled by traffic signals, and was snowing at higher elevations on the way there). Then took 7 hours driving back to Portland at more rational speeds, particularly since it was snowing pretty hard and sticking on the way back over the US 199 pass on the way home.

That trip was also the only time I was in California during the 2000s.

Well, there is that spot where I 70 runs on a surface street for several blocks in Breezewood, PA, and Interstate 5 flat out turns into a parkway going into Canada.

I had this exact issue, turned out that somehow the game's CPU priority had been changed to Low.

Changed it back to Normal and had no issues since

I used privacy.com disposable card as my bank is a dick about overseas purchases, i had my truck (Pete 362) in less than 2 hr, but it was the middle of the night for me. got invoice from robokassa, and a separate (not an invoice though) one from jon with the couple links for the SCS files for the truck/mods/key

That specific paint job can be used on any of the base trucks if you have the &quot;Metallic Paintjobs Pack&quot;.

Used wheel. Good time to be looking too. Folks will be selling off old stuff after xmas. If you come up with more $$ and looking for a shifter I got one of these a few weeks ago and spent my long weekend getting it mounted to my desk and having fun with it.

Shifter

Powered USB Hub, atolla 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with 4 USB 3.0 Data Ports and 1 USB Smart Charging Port, USB Splitter with Individual On/Off Switches and 5V/3A Power Adapter https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B083XTKV8V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_CM3MKM36RZ6684NWBGE0?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

A couple of these might fit the bill for what you're looking for.

If you don't rely on many physical buttons and switches, you'll never want to go back.

If you do have a lot of switch boxes and stuff, it might be counter-intuitive to use them while in VR since you won't be able to see them.

I personally use a low budget steering wheel and pedals (this one) but it works wonderfully.

I use the steering buttons for wipers, lights, horn, shifting gears, etc. and the mouse and keyboard buttons for some dashboard controls (assistant, windows, beacon, etc.)

Once you get used to where the keyboard is physically, it becomes more natural to use it while not seeing it, but yeah that would be the only downside from my own point of view.

Other than that, I would never go back to non-VR ;)

I've recently changed from my good old Xbox 360 controller to a Dualshock 4 without issue. The thing is I use a program called DS4Windows (link, it's free) which tricks the computer into thinking it's a Xbox controller. I can use the controller wirelessly (after getting the DS4 adapter of Sony) both for PS Now and PC games without any problems.

I don't know Bend too well since US 97 moved to the (relatively new) Bend Parkway almost 20 years ago (used to stay at the KOA on the old US 97 alignment somewhat regularly if I was in the Bend area). Anymore, I know 3rd and Greenwood as the corner The Fur Shop is on.

I'm assuming since you refer to them as L1, R1, L2, & R2 that you're using a third party playstation controller. I have no idea if this will actually work for you but I use DS4Windows to make my Dualshock controller work properly (I run into button conflicts otherwise). Hopefully it helps your system detect your triggers.

A free alternative would be to use JoyToKey to create a shift key that will change your buttons into a different set of hotkeys when held down. Ex: Buttons 1-5 could be your most important hotkeys, but when 6 is held down they become a completely different set.

The only negative is that you have to change your in-game hotkeys from controller presses to keyboard ones. Your wheel will always send controller signals, so this prevents them from triggering things you don't want.

It's pretty easy to set up. In JoyToKey, you'll want at least 2 joystick tabs (if it's not default, you can click on the options tab and add another). Set your main set of hotkeys under Joystick #1. Find the button you want as your shift key, double click it, go to the special tab, use the dropdown under shift to select joystick 2. Now, just go to the Joystick #2 tab and set your secondary set of hotkeys.

I'm more curious why you'd play in windowed mode to begin. Usually people play in windowed mode because it allows them to keep an eye on the game while looking something up on a different monitor, but a) you appear to have a single monitor setup and b) it's not an mmo or something that can't be paused and stuff can happen to you while you're afk.

Anyway for you and everyone else that wants to play in windowed mode, I'd recommend taking a look at https://github.com/Codeusa/Borderless-Gaming to play with a borderless maximized window, so you can do stuff on another monitor while keeping the game up and it doesn't require hiding the taskbar (which I personally hate to do).

check out a program called borderless gaming. there is a free version on github (https://github.com/Codeusa/Borderless-Gaming) and a paid version on steam. i use it all the time because my setup i 3x1080p

I think Mangohud is only for Linux (or other unix-like operating systems)

Edit: Windows-version is in early development. You can see more info about it here

There are 2... But they're both paid mods.

• 4800SB by Kishadowalker https://sellfy.com/kishadowalker

• 4864FX (Aussie spec 4800) by RTA http://rta-mods.net/en/information/2-news/42-ws4800

My preference is the KSW one as it includes a dozen different chassis options including a straight-truck/trailer with dump, logger, crane, flatbed, etc and loads.

Looks like its 10 bucks. Would I say its worth it? depends. To me its kinda worth it because I don't see 10 bucks as a lot. But it is pretty bare bones. However when you get it, you get free updates. And since i can tell you he has plans for it, it might be worth it. He is working on makeing a gooseneck hitch and trailer for it as well as more chassis options.

See http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com/multimon_config.php for how to configure multiple monitors. For triples, you probably want mode 2.

edit: I'm not sure what you mean by angle vs rotation in this regard, though. If you have a central landscape and side portrait, or similar, then you can use mode 4 to do some creative things - as long as they're one large virtual desktop.

Have you changed the multiple monitor mode in the config file?

I have the same setup as you and really like multiple monitor profile 2. It puts me right at the front of the cab though so I changed the seat position in game. If you're still not happy you can play around with the FOV settings, although I haven't done this.

More information here - the information applies to ATS and ETS2.

You could use the Multi Monitor Config, http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com/multimon_config.php I use it for one single display eyefinity, and have set fov ths way also. You can use uset r_multimon_mode "4" and adjust ingame via console command.

Set in config.cfg file uset r_multimon_mode "4" launch game, open console.

multimon init one

multimon list (check displayname here)

multimon set (insert displayname here) horizontal_fov_override 100

multimon save

I don't know if it works in MP, but since its a default function, it should be so.

There's a tool SCS has made for this, you can find it on the ETS2 website (http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com/mod_tools.php) and is called the SCS extractor. Just place it in your root folder (not trough your docs, but via steam) open it and don't touch it till out finishes on its own.

Edit: Link

> The non-Steam edition of the Euro Truck Simulator 2 and both map expansions will continue to exist, they will be available for purchase exclusively from the official game website at http://www.eurotrucksimulator2.com.

you can download the full game and play it in trial mode and see if it's something that interests you. here is the official link for download:

Euro Truck Simulator 2 Trial Download

I agree Idaho is definitely coming out in 2020 and is very likely the next DLC, Idaho and all the other states that border the base game have been outlined on the official website since the game came out.

They've just been adding the states in as they go along, it just so happens that now Idaho is the last state bordering the base game that hasn't been made yet, so it really stands out.

Excalibur are the publishers of SCS, but they only publish games to the U.K. not the rest of the world. CD Projekt Red publishes SCS games to Poland, and the same carries to different countries with different publishers.

What I mentioned above may be all lies so don't take my word for it.

The safest place to get the game right now is the official website.

I’d recommend downloading Nvidia Profile Inspector, It’s an excellent bit of software that optimises Nvidia settings for a variety of games not just ATS :) Here

Completely unrelated to anything trucksim, I'm a bit like you, which is why I plunked down some coin to get Stardock's Fences. Really like how it organizes my desktop.

Whatever music you like ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

As for playing it, I don't use the in-game radio too often. I usually just have MusicBee running in the background, and I use the MusicBee Remote plugin + app on my phone for full control of playlists, volume, etc.

Just to let some of you know. I currently use shadow.tech for playing my trucking games. It's runs them at 60fps 1080p and only requires you to have a 15mbps download speed. If you want to try it out for a discounted price use RYAWBMK7 at checkout. There's no commitment so you can cancel after the first month if its not for you. But I'm so glad I've signed up and now back playing Euro Truck at ultra settings. If you want me to record or stream from my Shadow to show you how it performs then leave a comment or message me. Thanks. https://shadow.tech/gben

Wasn't going to question how it runs, if you're running Windows and have an Android phone or tablet then might be worth a look into MatricApp, it lets you turn devices into button boxes.

https://matricapp.com/

Yes, and could be/is quite easy to do it.

Since I don't know what is the internal file's name of your truck/s mod/s, I'll give you an example on how the price of Volvo FH16 2012's Globetrotter XL cabin can be changed.

We open the mod archive (extension should be .scs or .zip) using an extractor (e.g. 7Zip), then go to def\vehicle\truck\volvo.fh16_2012\cabin\l2h3.sii and open it with an text editor (e.g. Notepad++). In that file we look for price: 76560 line and change that amount with the desired amount.

If you want some sort of balance between truck's components prices, then there are other locations where you can change the price.

def\vehicle\truck\volvo.fh16_2012\chassis\

def\vehicle\truck\volvo.fh16_2012\engine\

def\vehicle\truck\volvo.fh16_2012\interior\

def\vehicle\truck\volvo.fh16_2012\transmission\

I hope that the example will help you to get the things started. If you didn't understood something, feel free to ask about it.

There are some great Early Access games (for example Disco Dodgeball which goes out of Early Access next month after nearly a year - and it was constantly updated), but low quality games which don't get improved much don't make Early Access a good name.

Cheap, but has been working as intended for several months.

S18-18 Speed Truck SIM Shifter MOD for G29 Shifter Logitech G920 G27 ETS2 & ATS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7C63F7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_H0YDX1WXDBQ8JQ7N1RKV?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Rxmotor-Drifting-Steering-Racing-Universal/dp/B07X4B72TX/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;

I chose this one because it was cheap and the spokes were in roughly the same spot as the spokes on the Logitech.

I do have four transducer pucks under my desk chair powered by an external amp and power supply. Four corners so I feel bumping over curbs etc. I also came up with a lope-y idle vibration in simhub that's pretty cool if you want a screenshot of that.

Added this $18 Amazon shift boot to my setup. It’s mounted into a SKRS shifter with a handbrake that sits on top of a Fanatec shifter box. I didn’t realize how much adding it would improve the feel of my shifts and dampen noise.

I use this phone stand: https://www.amazon.com/Height-Adjustable-LISEN-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B07Z82895W

Also, if the steering wheel is still a problem, you can move the phone a bit to the side. It doesn't have to be directly in front of you to track your head movements, but the camera must be able to film your face

I have that same setup. I also bought this attachment for my shifter.

S18-18 Speed Truck SIM Shifter MOD for G29 Shifter Logitech G920 G27 ETS2 & ATS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7C63F7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K1MWDXER60HM86Y1MPCF?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

As others said, check pinout with multimeter. This is also an option other than Arduino. I have not used them (I bought them but haven't tested yet), but saw them on other people's shifter builds. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Q6K7BQP95JCPHXW86A6Z?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I have been also using an Android tablet with the Sim Dashboard app

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.stryder_it.simdashboard

That can be used as dashboard and button panel at the same time. Obviously doesn't have the nice feeling of the stream deck, but can be a potential "free" upgrade if you already have a tablet laying around.

Now that I have a more powerful GPU I play mainly in VR, but back then when I used to play "pancake", was a great add-on.

I’ve been really happy with this one. It’s the only one I found with a tray for setting your office chair wheels into so you don’t roll backwards pressing the pedals. Comes mostly pre-assembled. Highly recommend having a set of ratchet wrenches and/or a socket set. It comes with tools but they’re a pain in the butt to use. Cup holder is IMO useless, but it’s incredibly sturdy and adjustable. Folds up really slim too.

I also recommend getting office chair bell glides like these which makes setting it up a little less annoying (so it doesn’t roll all over the place), at least for me.

i've seen people with those mini-bt keyboards velcro'd to the wheel :P they can even thumb type with hands resting low at 5,7-clock and it give you a mildly decent touch pad too (EX: https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Wireless-Bluetooth-Keyboard-Stainless/dp/B017QZ483G)

So I play with the g29 as well with the shifter,

S18-18 Speed Truck SIM Shifter MOD for G29 Shifter Logitech G920 G27 ETS2 & ATS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7C63F7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZRRVEAK5E55NC5R024T3 I use something similar, but just make sure to remap it correctly in game, as the pattern changes on 13 and 18 speeds Good luck

What do you mean "the pedal sticks"? Does the pedal stay down when you take your foot off? If you're referring to the stiffness, Logitech has used a rubber block to "simulate" a load cell (rather poorly since a load cell is quite different). I have removed the one that was installed in my pedals (I have the g920). As for buttons, what's your budget? There are several options for button boxes, I've seen a few people using extra USB number pads. I currently have the Logitech Sidedeck. For setup, depending on space and budget there are wheelstands, I've got the GT Omega wheel stand https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6DR81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_DCA05D808PN7XMXQS9DC?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1. Beyond all of that, it really comes down to how badly you want to use your wheel. The xb controller is fine for both games. These are just one person's thoughts, I'm sure others will chime in.

This is the one I have https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6DR81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_1M695KVNY0W154BD6V56?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1. It's a good and sturdy (imo) I like it mainly because it makes setup a lot easier. I have a pic of my setup on my profile.