Yes I feel this pain exactly. I switched from an LG 4k TV that was like 5 years old with 30ms response time. That is why I wanted the low response time high refresh rate monitor. All I can tell you is I'm absolutely thrilled with mine. I decided on this after about a week worth of research
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Gaming-VG27AQ-G-SYNC-Monitor/dp/B07WQ4FXY9
Hard drive;
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They are all similar, look for decent reviews. I got this for a friend and it’s working good so far.. Make sure it’s at least 128gb and usb 3.1. Keep in mind some 128gb won’t show as 128gb when plugged in.
np. Heres the one i bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HHSJVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
if you're using a 4k 120hz tv, then will need to get a different one. If you're using a 144hz monitor, idk if theres one that will work.
You can also try to.find a Razer Raiju for ps4:
Thank you for that clarification on the anti recoil. Much appreciate details.
I will for sure let you know if i see hitching in ranked for season 9.
Glad to hear framerate priority is still coming( prob would have been good had they mentioned that in an oct dev letter so your not having to answer these questions).
Im still rather disappointed in the season 9 info we saw today , not going to lie. Seems like we are getting a map where we can cant earn stats or complete missions . Season is shorter and broken into two season passes, nerfing the SLR was not needed . I know many wanted ranked solos , while i didnt care about them , thats one cool thing added.
But it seems like not a lot is coming in the season which is the last for the year so its raher disappointing.
As for the info on next gen. It comes out in less than a month man. Other games are telling info ( see - https://borderlands.com/en-US/news/2020-10-13-borderlands-3-next-gen-launch-playstation-5-xbox-series-x/) This is the type of info we are looking for . Its just mind blowing we are this close and pubg corp can not manage to tell us anything at all about it. Not blaming you to be clear however this info needs to be given to your playerbase .
Bot is pulling some dates from the skins listing, but here is a better view of the maintenance period in different time zones.
This is cheating don't even defend it.
This is aimbot not turned to 100%. It's cheating in other words
PDT = Pacific Daylight Time (US).
CEST = Central European Summer Time.
You are likely thinking of EDT, which is Eastern Daylight Time (US)
I use the HyperX CloudX Flight. They sound good enough for me, are wireless, and have the typical features that I like in a headset.
i would also caution that if you're using wired headsets with the Xbox and feel like the volume just isn't getting loud enough, make sure to check the volume mixer settings on the Xbox itself. I recently picked up the wired Xbox headset just as a backup pair and at first thought that the headset just wasn't loud enough, no matter that I had turned the headset to max volume. I had completely forgotten about the volume settings on the Xbox itself and increasing the volume there resolved my volume issue.
My control got a lot better when I added a thumb grip to my controller. My kd went from 1.5-2.0 to 2.5-3.0. Not very scientific because I play a lot of different game modes depending on who’s online, but I can tell my accuracy has improved when I look at old videos. When you put a thumb grip on you need to increase your sensitivity, basically as high as you can handle and turn off aim acceleration completely. It takes a bit to adjust, but do training, play tdm, and get used to it. You will never have zero recoil, but you can improve your handling a lot.
Example of thumb grip (find a brand you like, it’s just to extend the thumb stick making small movements take more input.) KontrolFreek FPS Freek Galaxy White for Xbox One and Xbox Series X Controller | Performance Thumbsticks | 1 High-Rise, 1 Mid-Rise | White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01BCO1J9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q34588VP1BPNEJC1YXXT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ahhh. There is a controller designed for such of a thing. Though it is hard wired if ya like to swap out control thumb sticks into d-pads of either side of the controller. If you’re an xbox player I would recommend this and it had it’s perks. A buddy of mine got me into this particular model. I am quite astonished with how nice it is to change control functions of the controller. I use to use these types for tournaments too. A little springy, but very cool with the magnetic interlocking combined with okay grips. There’s also a PS version too depending on the console you’re on. When ya have the time, check it. It’s a bit on the pricey side, but the only controller manufactured brand I know of. https://www.amazon.com/ThrustMaster-Tm-Eswap-Pro-Controller-Xbox/dp/B07XQC1GNG
You just need to get a controller with trigger locks like the Power A Fusion.
I know a few people that have nothing but positive things to say about this controller. Personally I like my Elite 2, but a common complaint is how quickly they can wear out.
I got 2 of these wall mounted top and bottom for me and my wife. Both 65in. Have 130in on monitors in the living room lol
I got them on sale for 700$ each
Your monitor is nice 👌
Cheers mate
That's fair, as long as you don't keep having them die on you and ultimately result in money being completely wasted.
This is the thumb drive I use for random everyday storage purposes, kept on my keychain: Samsung BAR Plus USB 3.1 Flash Drive 128GB
It should probably work, but I've never used it for the Xbox One so can't vouch for how it compares to a proper SSD.
this should work fine. or spend more and get a 500 or 1Tb. or you can upgrade your box - at this point it's almost worth it tbh if you're going to play a lot of console.
you can use it for your music and whatever for your laptop/pc if you ever upgrade your xbox.
But what if that device is officially supported by Sony or Microsoft? This thing can be used on any game on PS4 and is licensed by Sony.
(To be clear, I'm only playing devil's advocate because I think it's an interesting conversation. Mouse on console is cheating on FPS games, in my opinion.)
Hard drive;
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Buy an AMP or run the sounds thru your PC. Then you can adjust settings like this
This is what I used. I have the 500gb version and it worked great for pubg and other large games
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C4TLLJL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ath.FbG5M0SPS
Now I use it on the series x for older games and they run off it just fine
This game is a resource hog and will probably always crash. Honestly, I'm amazed it runs at all on the older consoles. I've found that this has a lot to do with which console you play on. My squad has a big mix of consoles, from the first gen Xbox One all the way up to the Series X. The older it is, the more it will crash. I'm lucky enough to have a Series X and I can't remember the last time I crashed in a game. Sometimes I crash going into the lobby after a match but that's about it.
The only tip I can give is to get an external SSD. This helps a great deal with loading back in to games if it does crash. You can get away with something small like this ($35) if you only play a few games often. The load times on these are way faster than the internal HDD. Been using one for a couple years now and I always load in to the game first, and if I did crash it was about one minute to get back in to the game from the dashboard. It also helps with rendering buildings faster when parachuting and driving. Of course with the Series X, it comes with the SSD so no need to buy one if you have the newest console.
Oh for sure I totally understand. And like you said, you shouldn’t have to get an SSD just to make the game playable, but here we are.
It may be one of the cheapest options for the SSD but for games on the Xbox one X, it’s more than enough.
I have this USB enclosure myself and it works very well.
If you’re lucky you may be able to fit COD: Modern Warfare and PUBG together. Of course, it’s up to you how much storage you want to go for but the Xbox requires a minimum of 240gb for games.
The HyperX CloudX Flight. I had basically the same headset for PC and enjoyed it, and have so far enjoyed these as well. The RIG 800LX are super light and sound great, but their fold-up-to-mute microphone design is fatally flawed and the mic will inevitably develop a short, introducing static. The wireless connectivity of the RIG headset was also always shaky with disconnects being a regular occurrence. I say this after owning two pair and experiencing these issues with both.
This is the monitor I have. It can do 120hz at 1080p or 60hz 1440p on the Xbox. It can also do 144hz on my PC. I get no screen tearing with this one. It used to be 169.99 when I bought it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ngxKFb6DQM6RS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This one is not in stock in Australia? I had the same thing happen to my OG xbox. $22 on Amazon.
Xbox One Power Supply Brick, AC Adapter Charger with Power Cord for Xbox 1 Console, Worldwide Use 100V-240V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QZRNY7R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0ncJFbDY523NP
I’m also on OG and I got this SSD a while back. It was the cheapest I could find so not much space but I don’t have any rendering issues anymore.
Also need an enclosure that is like $9
If you go with that SSD, then you would not need the enclosure. The enclosure is used to take what would ordinarily be an internal drive, and to convert it to an external drive that connects via USB. The ASD 600Q that you linked is already an external USB drive, and so the enclosure is not needed.
As for whether there is a better option for under $50.. First, on the ASD 600Q I would say to check out the reviews. This is really for anything bought on Amazon, but I always suggest looking at the 1 star reviews, seeing what percentage of reviews are 1-star, and seeing if there are any easily detectable patterns of complaints. In this case, 11% of the reviews are 1-star, and that seems like a fairly significant portion. Many of those 1-star reviews refer to the drive either being slow or getting slow after a relatively small amount of use. Still, with only 81 reviews total, this could be just ignored.
Personally, I prefer using an internal SATA SSD in an enclosure because that allows for a wider selection, typically has longer-lasting parts, and means that if I ever want to replace the drive with something else, I won't have to either buy a new enclosure or pay again for all of the external drive packaging. If you do go for an internal SATA SSD, I would not go with the PNY drive you linked, and would instead go for the Kingston 240GB. Fewer percentage of 1-star reviews. The enclosure you linked is fine, and may be the same one I'm using right now.
Plus Zeos has a review that should drop in the next few days and he's amazed at how much better these sound compared to the orignal fidellios
I got the Acer 1080p IPS 144hz a few days after Prime day. Best upgrade to my Samsung Monitor from 08'.
Acer Nitro VG271 Pbmiipx 27" Full HD (1920 x 1080) IPS Monitor with AMD Radeon FREESYNC Technology, 144Hz, VESA Certified DisplayHDR400, (2 x HDMI 2.0 Ports & 1 x Display Port) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDXF81K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VmHRDb3QWZGJP
ASUS VG279Q 27" Full HD 1080p IPS 144Hz 1ms (MPRT) DP HDMI DVI Eye Care Gaming Monitor with FreeSync/Adaptive Sync https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXHTRT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NoHRDbKA22BPF
There's a VG279qr version with 165hz but don't know it's a VA or IPS panel. The *Q is an IPS. Thereis an LG IPS compete with these. But I have not tried them.
I've tried both these monitors and at the time got them half the price that it is now but there are amazing for the price bracket. I keeped the Acer as it has speakers (not the best rarely use them) HDR, AMD freesync, HDMI 2.0x2 Displayport, Audio Jack, etc.
I do graphic design but also try and have one monitor on the desk so I try to get the best I can for all my devices. PC, XBOX, SWITCH. I've tried TN VA curve (curve monitors stretch your image in the last few inches and give a fish eye look to everything). I can't use them for longer than a few hr or days. There colors are shit washed out with whites and blacks just bleeding every where.
I was holding out for a long time on a 24inch monitor but this 27inch IPS monitor pixel density is not to bad. I would have gone with the 1440p version forn the best upgrade. But the fact that I play on a day one XB1. I couldn't really go for it. The Acer is still an amazing upgrade and future proofing for late next year's release of consoles.
Was checkin this out so the audio doesnt go to my monitor than to my bass station.
Cause the hdmi audio splits off but then one might loose the benefit of having the monitor volume boosted Kramer Electronics Flexible High- Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet & 3.5mm Stereo Audio - 3M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8L3XRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9mPKDbV7S6RRB
I think SSD is the way to go regardless. I play in the bedroom on a One X with a Western Digital external SSD (I even have a fan blowing on the rear of the console for cooling/ventilation).
When my wife comes to the bedroom to sleep and we've finished watching movies together I'll unplug the SSD and move to the living room and play on my Day One Xbox One. The WiFi is broken on the console so I use one of these and plug my SSD in to and rock and roll.
The textures are shit BUT guns load before or right as I hit the ground and frame rate is steady for the most part.