What are
/r/bose's
favorite Products & Services?
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/bose:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/bose:
Slickdeals
Visual Studio Code
Camelcamelcamel
Hosts by Steven Black
Google TV
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you can buy from the bose website which is very expensive. your best bet is amazon.
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Download the Bose Connect App apk on your PC, rename it from [name].apk to [name].zip and unzip it.
Search in the Data-explorer for "nodpi". You'll get a folder with nodpi. Rename "product_baywolf_460_silver.webp" to "product_baywolf_460_black2.webp"
and "product_baywolf_460_black.webp" to "product_baywolf_460_silver.webp".
rename "product_baywolf_460_black2.webp" to "product_baywolf_460_black.webp"
Save it. Zip it. Rename it to [name].apk and install it on your phone.
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This is a theory, I have never tested it this way. I can't guarantee that it works.
Why not use a Bluetooth adapter for your computer?
I have the QC35II and they sound great with Bluetooth but when I plug them into my high quality audio player they sound even better.
Did a quick search on amazon ca and found these which seem good quality: https://www.amazon.ca/Bingle-Replacement-Headphones-Quiet-Comfort/dp/B078XTNHFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=bose+qc25+replacement+ear+pads&qid=1578351805&sprefix=Bose+qc25+repl&sr=8-5
I wouldn't bother changing the inner mesh as it barely gets affected and is more hassle than needed. Just watch a YouTube video and change them.
Hi, thanks! The idea of reinstalling triggered a new trial Session for me. It works now and this is what I have done:
Go to https://alexa.amazon.com and login
When it redirects to the Alexa app, close and uninstall the app
Switch back to your browser and go back to the Alexa site
Re-link your Spotify account
Reinstall the Alexa app
Uninstall Bose Connect App
Reinstall Bose App
Connect Headphones
Turn of headphones and on again -> triggers reconnection in alexa app
Done, works!
Very happy now :)
https://www.amazon.com/YOCOWOCO-Upgraded-Wireless-Bluetooth-QuietComfort/dp/B07VCPB4D7
Can't recall the brand name but this looks identical to mine. Works well in my case
You could use scothguard or something like this (link is for Amazon Canada but you can probably find something similar): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07Z2PY4RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MMK2MK6GD2HXAX1DPZJY
Not a boom mic, but if you need a cabled mic for your NC700s I am using the QC25 cable and it’s working great with the mic:
https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Comfort-Headphones-Inline-devices/dp/B00OGA2R7Y/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=bose+qc35+cable&qid=1626776270&sr=8-1 Am using Apple’s USB-C to Headphone jack cable as the audio interface for my Windows 10 machine.
Thanks for your response!
Sorry, it's a confusing question. Let me try to break it down a little.
I need a mic to work on my QC 35 II headphones while using Windows 10---that's being run on a Macbook pro.
The bluetooth doesn't work with the mic (a common issue, so I've read).
I know I need a 2.5mm male to 3.5mm male inline mic cable.
Some cables seem to only support certain devices or certain operating systems. For instance, this cable says it supports Apple Products and Android devices, but not Windows (According to the Q&A at the bottom). So I'm assuming I need...an inline mic that will support Windows 10 specifically, even though the device is Apple?
I recommend tencel earpad covers. They are cooling and sweat wicking. I wear mine 7 days a week for a few hours a day, and have been for several years. The earpads still look like new. When you want to clean the earpad covers you just work some shampoo into them to remove the oil and dead skin, then rinse them out and let them dry.
Hey guys, called support after experiencing this problem. They weren’t terribly helpful but they suggested buying an aux adapter as it seems like the fit of the QC35 cable might be such that it’s causing the static (I have normal wired earbuds that had no static issues). I bought the adapter below (comes in Monday) and will report back to see if this solves the issue.
FosPower (1 Pack) 3.5mm Male to Female Auxiliary Stereo Audio Headphone Jack AUX Adapter [4-Conductor TRRS | 24K Gold Plated Plug] for iPhone, Smartphones, Tablets, Speakers, Microphone & Card Readers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016AHYRNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_yIq3FbQCM8H11
You can always try, but this looks like a standard 18 pin ribbon cable to me. Measure the pitch between the contacts and search around a bit. Looks like 1mm to me, so this one MIGHT work. It's always a gamble. But verify this before buying!
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Flexible-Cable-Ribbon-Player/dp/B07RT6XWKV
Sounds like we have a similar setup. I have the Bose 300 soundbar and a Sony XBR X900F. I have an Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire TV, Xbox One X and a Nintendo Switch.
Since there is only one HDMI port on the TV that outputs 4K HDR, I bought an HDMI switch from Amazon that has been working like a champ. Using the switch I have been able to plug in all the devices and they have been spot on outputting 4K HDR signals from whatever device outputs that high. Initially I had an issue where Dolby Vision would only output a green color but I think that has been addressed in a firmware update as I haven’t seen that in quite some time.
I do still occasionally see the issue where it forgets the soundbar and goes to the internal speakers but it only happens sometimes when I first turn on the system. If I turn the soundbar and tv off and back on then it works like it’s supposed to. With my workaround and the infrequency of it happening I really haven’t looking into it very hard.
I would venture a guess that it might have something to do with some CEC setting but I don’t know for sure.
Here is the link to that switch.
HDMI Switch 4 Ports HDMI 2.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XKS4QX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They don’t come up in a search for some reason, but if you go to the Bose storefront on Amazon they are right on the main page.
QC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C4KWM9T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z0TwFb34HGE63
Sport: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJCTG6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k1TwFbGRBGN5E
Hi
I had the same issue here in Australia. Did all the stupid things Bose said like powering down removing connections etc. no joy.
Then I thought maybe it’s a geo thing as they are not released here yet. Just put my vpn on my phone and it registered first time just now!
I’m using ExpressVPN
set to USA Los Angeles 2
It’s all working now and I can change the settings and see the AR screen etc
I have switched off the VPN and it’s all still working fine
I’ve been getting do frustrated with all the nonsense about work around, hopefully this works for you too, could just be random luck though.
UPDATE: Workaround found to enable Alexa in restricted regions.
First I enabled TunnelBear VPN set to U.S. on my phone (iOS) Set Region of the Device to United States. I installed the Bose Music App from the U.S. Appstore using an American Appleid. Restored Soundbar to factory settings. Set-up Sounbar and bam, Alexa set-up pops up automatically. Additional Alexa preferences adjusted through the Alexa App. Everything seems to be working fine even after disabling the VPN. Only issue I am running into so far is that Alexa is unable to control Hue Light Scenes.
But all in all, a not to difficult workaround to get Alexa enabled on the new Soundbars if your living in an area Alexa is not available yet!
Did you download the "Bose connect" app? I had this issue when I first got mine, downloaded the app and updated. But I am good to go now.
I hope this helps.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bose.monet&hl=en_US
Advice for people with tvOS 16.1 (as of 2022-12-07).
So, at one point (with the release of tvOS 16.0), Apple seemed to have resolved the issue, and my AppleTVs were able to recognize the input from the Bose Smart Soundbar 300 remote and would properly recognize it in the settings and I was able to control the volume on the Bose 300 with the AppleTV remote. tvOS 16.1 and after seems to have re-broken what tvOS 16.0 fixed, and now the AppleTV no longer recognizes the Bose 300 remote and the AppleTV remote. Previously, I had some luck using a generic universal TV remote to learn the volume controls from the Bose 300 remote, and then could use the universal TV remote to have the AppleTV learn those commands, as the AppleTV would recognize the Bose volume commands if they were learned by the AppleTV from the universal TV remote. But as of tvOS 16.1, that no longer worked either.
I was able to find a solution that worked. It appears that generic Bose controllers that can control the Bose Soundbar 900 will also work to control the Bose Soundbar 300. Most importantly, those generic Bose controllers are able to be recognized by the AppleTV. I was able to buy this generic Bose remote on Amazon (called "New Remote Control 799702-1100 Fit for Bose Smart Soundbar Series 300/500/900 with Battery") for $23. AppleTV recognized that remote's signal, and now I can once again use my AppleTV remote to control my Bose Smart Soundbar 300.
For reference, I use the optical port (connected to the TV) to feed sound to the soundbar.
Good idea on the two pillows. Here is the link to one of those pillows with a hole (they have mixed reviews but a great idea for us side sleepers).
That's understood, I do gaming, and have a wired set for that. Skype/VOIP calls though, I wanna switch back and forth. I've opted for this, it arrives tomorrow.
Bose sells replacements for $35: https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/headphones/headphone_accessories/qc35-ear-cushion-kit.html
You can also found generic ones for cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Ear-QC35-QuietComfort-Black/dp/B08528ZT2N
Based on the pic you sent, you would need a 1/4 inch to 2.5 mm cable such as this one
I bought this one (not Bose OEM), and it works perfectly with my Bose 700:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZSMZ6N7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Volume and mic work great on my M1 MacBook Air and a 5-yr old Windows 11 HP laptop. It eliminates the extra latency from bluetooth (which, imo, wasn't bad to start with). I have my iPhone linked with my MacBook, so I can be listening to background music but switch over to answer a phone call, without having to take off headphones and reach for my phone. I made some recordings through the cable and with the MacBook built-in mics (which are excellent), and the sound quality of the cable mic isn't quite as good, but it is louder. I expect that the Bose QC25 cable mic would probably sound better, but the Bose cable was more than twice the price.
Update for anyone coming to this thread with a similar situation.
If you use a Roku device as your primary streaming device and you don't have any other devices to worry about (TV, Roku, and soundbar), then this will work for you!
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The Roku remote already controls the volume on the TV. I programmed the Sideclicker to have volume buttons for the Soundbar, Channel up and down buttons, Input button and left/right buttons, and an OK button for the TV, and finally I set Power to the Power button on the Soundbar.
I can safely tuck away the TV remote and the Bose Soundbar remote out of children's reach and we only need the one remote now for all our needs except for the super obscure (TV picture settings, Bose Dialog mode, etc.)
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Link to device: https://www.amazon.com/Sideclick-Remotes-SC2-FT16K-Universal-Attachment/dp/B01MRFY61G
Upgraded from QC1 to this. I'm really pleased with it.
I'm using it together with the wavelet android app. It really brings out the audio. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pittvandewitt.wavelet
So they are the QC20 Series II.
I would suggest getting the Apple version (but you will still need a 3.5mm to lightning adapter for any apple device without the 3.5mm socket). This will give you the ability to use the remote with your iPhone.
Then when you plug it into the windows PC you just plug into the headphone jack. As the remote probably won't control the PCs volume, it doesn't matter if it's apple/android when connected to a PC.
Thank you for the response, but I am still quite confused I am planning on buying these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bose-QuietComfort-Acoustic-Cancelling-Headphones/dp/B00X9KVVQK?th=1
I want to use it on my windows pc and my iphone.
So should I get the iphone version or the android version? Sorry if I am being ignorant.
Same here, I tried 2 different cables, both only give sound in Right ear. Anyone figure this out ?
Replacement
for QC35II Detachable Boom Microphone Cable with Mute Switch Compatible
with Bose QuietComfort 35 & QuietComfort 35 II Headphones for PS4
PS5 Xbox One Controller
I found a mic that works! It's a bit janky, since my Windows laptop doesn't recognize it as a separate "entity" per say (pardon me for my lack of knowledge about how internal computers work) like usual headphones.
When I was testing it out on Google Meets, I had to avoid using the "default - ..." option for the mic and speakers, since that always defaulted to the laptop microphone and speakers, but as long as I adjusted the audio settings it worked fine! Not sure if I'll have to apply this in other meeting software (like Zoom), but I suspect so.
The only other slight issue I had was that the connector didn't sit flush on my NC 700's. There was a part of the connector that was visible, but I don't think it affected the performance of the headset.
Here's the link btw if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Boom-Microphone-Playstation-Controller/dp/B07W3GGRF2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=LJ5QI8WY7WMC&keywords=Cable+Boom+Microphone&qid=1661894460&sprefix=cable+boom+microphone%2Caps%2C384&sr=8-6
I use them frequently with PopOS 22.04 out of the box. Audio quality is not great when using the microphone due to codec used (I think it can be improved with some tweaking, but for work voice chat is more than enough). Previous Pop versions were not good, I think pipewire solves most of the issues, including swithing mode (from headphone to headset) automatically.
I have used them in Discord with no issues, not sure who or why says it's impossible.
If using the oficial cable microphone is disabled, sadly. I think the minijack output is audio only. I bought a third party cable with a 'on cable microphone' and works well for the times when I run out of battery. Something like this one https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Extension-Compatible-Soundlink-Headphones%EF%BC%8CWorks/dp/B07WZZDS7J (not suggesting that one in particular, just an example).
I haven't tried the USB dongle as it works fine for me.
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I suggest testing pipewire if available for your release or swithing to one relese/distro with pipewire enabled by default to avoid headaches.
I think so. I bought a pair a year ago and I didn't notice any difference. https://www.amazon.com.br/gp/product/B071244KKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-IER-Z1R-Signature-Headphones-IERZ1R/dp/B07HXPZ44S
Sony makes stuff well above what Bose makes for personal audio. Bose is purely consumer grade stuff while Sony also does audiophile level gear
Had the same thing. Ordered these $22 ones on Amazon and made the headphones as good as new!
Ugh, the future sucks.
Toslink is not appealing, as I understand that the cable should not be very long. I would have to rearrange everything in my room, as the intended speaker position (front of the room) is more than 10 feet away from the source (which feeds the projector in the back of the room).
I guess you're suggesting that I'd need something like HDFury or this cheaper thing to convert my plain old HDMI audio into eARC.
These are the ones I bought, the more recent reviews do not match my experience at all so beware, they may have done the ol' switcheroo.
I'm having the same issue, and unfortunately mine is under warranty. Bose is willing to sell me the new model for a little over $200, but I don't want to do that since my headphones still work aside from this issue.
So my solution was to do two things: first, I set the standby time on my headphones to 5 minutes to try not to burn through the battery too quickly when it turns on by itself. Second, I just ordered a large Faraday bag to block the headphones from connecting to my phone when I'm not using them.
Certainly not ideal, but I thought I'd share in case others are dealing with this too.
You need breadboard wires which you can get here. Then use that diagram and you’re good to go.
AUSTOR 560 Pieces Jumper Wire Kit 14 Lengths Assorted Preformed Breadboard Jumper Wire with Free Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJYSL2T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HMHGC0GZC3W9EK2TBCJS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You will probably need this cable or similar to go directly into their headphone jack and you can use the left and right 1/4” output of the mixer. I’m not sure why there’s an Ethernet cable in the mix, probably was an extra cable and they decided to use it as an audio signal cable but hopefully they have something to remove external interference.
Exact model
Bose(R) 321 GS Series II DVD Home Entertainment System - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JY6SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F6QYGW3MBGHR1ZBV2ZSH
I do have optical. I’m going to enable that now and check.
Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 13ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TQJP3LX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_W4KQS1F8C1DW9VHD4AZY?psc=1
I have that same cable connected to my Xbox Series X and Samsung Q90T television in my man's cave. It is 2.1 certified and passed all tests on the Xbox (4k, HDR, VRR, 120hz). Because it's been flawless there for many many months I went that route. Maybe a bit more than needed for standard arc but it's working great!
I have the same speakers on my deck and have it running to one of these:
Nobsound Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Power Amplifier, Stereo Hi-Fi Digital Amp 2.0 Channel 50W×2 with AUX/USB/Bluetooth Input, Wireless Audio Receiver, PC Sound Card with Power Supply (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y67PZB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1XAJYGMH0XVPQYV3VWRE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If your receiver is in the basement, you may have some trouble with Bluetooth range, you could use an echo dot or something to control it if you have smart assistants in your home already.
I have an echo connected to mine, via BT and can tell any of the echos to play on deck stereo and have audio on the deck.
It’s probably not the most elegant solution, but it does work well and reliably. If you had any smart outlets, you could plug this stereo into it and have the smart assistant also turn the stereo on and off.
Good luck!
USB C Headphone Adapter for Google Pixel 6 Pro 5 4 3 2 XL, Type C to 3.5mm Audio Jack Aux Dongle Compatible with iPad Pro/Air 4/Mini 6, Samsung S21/S20 Note 20/10, OnePlus 10/9 Pro 9R 8T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y84WXBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y1EFEG2VRZMXTMG1CXCT
Remember that this adapter is a digital signal (USB-C) to analog signal (3.5mm) converter, so, not every adapter will work. The adapter needs to recognize the digital signal from your phone’s USB-C.
I used these for a while and they were pretty good. Just leave the tip inside the port permanently. You can see it but it’s not very noticeable
This app solves your problem. It is faster and has easy setup:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jehoefna.boseswitcher&hl=en&gl=US
You can try this app, it switches ANC very fast (easy setup, without registration )
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jehoefna.boseswitcher&hl=en&gl=US
That's not possible.
You can use the following app to quickly set the ANC automatically without additional clicks, and you can keep using the action button for the Google Assistant.
They actually make bluetooth adapters for the older sound docks that worked with the apple 30 pin connector.
DockLinQ Pro Bluetooth 5.0 Adapter Receiver for Bose Sounddock and 30 pin iPod iPhone Music Docking Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3653DF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_X9SY3BZH8RSWC6SVX759?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The cheap nobsound amps on amazon are supposed to be pretty decent. They have analog inputs and blue tooth.
Nobsound Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Power Amplifier, Stereo Hi-Fi Digital Amp 2.0 Channel 50W×2 with AUX/USB/Bluetooth Input, Wireless Audio Receiver, PC Sound Card with Power Supply (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y67PZB1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_54P1ZZ9QT9854PK7HM74
Premium Replacement QC35 / QC35 ii earpads and V2 QC35 / QC35 ii Headband pad Cushion Compatible with Bose QuietComfort 35 (QC35) and Bose QuietComfort 35 ii (QC35 ii) Headphones (Midnight Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KBYXZSM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_F43BNJMACRFHFF1JNC0N
I've seen these on Amazon and it does have good reviews.
I got these and love them. Use a plastic spudger to insert the new pads under the tabs. You will hear a click as you insert the pads under the tabs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096XVP621/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well, I only know that they were sent to US customers but I have no information about their actual availability.
I have grown impatient and desperate so I ordered these yesterday, to try out:
If they are better than the stock ones, I will let you know.
Is the headband bent or is that just the angle of the photo? I would sand them with sandpaper maybe spraypaint them and add a replacement headband like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Cancelling-Headphones-Protector-Installation/dp/B07Y7Y67P3
I picked up one of these. I have hard floors, but it would work on carpet too. It isolated the bass a bit from spreading to the walls and floors. I would recommend one of these…. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L1BP2V8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_N0GSFTTMN25N248129YR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I side sleep and live next to all the building sites and a very well maintained stretch of motorway.
Get a Sony WH-1000XM3 (or 4, but they’re both very similar).
I got a cheap U shaped travel pillow made of memory foam and put a couple pillow protectors under it for height, one headphone goes in the pillow hole.
The Bose headphones (35ii, 700, 45) get a bit of a static noise on the side that’s in the pillow hole, I had a problem with the right side of my XM4s (tried a few, seems to be hit or miss) but XM3 is pretty much perfect.
RTINGS rates the noise cancelling as best on the XM3 out of 600+ headphones rtings.com/headphones/tests/isolation/noise-isolation-cancellation-passive-active
I got these knitted cosy things and that makes them a bit less hot and clammy https://smile.amazon.com/WH1000XM3-WH1000XM2-Headphones-Stretchable-Protectors/dp/B07QHD7S2L
Bit overpriced for what it is, but it’s a really good fit on the Sony models or the 700
I use the quiet comfort when I'm awake. If the over-head are an issue for you, I enjoy the AKG wired earbuds. For sleeping, I really don't have a suggestion other than downloading white noise or whatever sounds you want to listen to on your phone and pairing your phone with something like a sleeping headband. This is what I use sometimes: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Headphones-Lavince-Ultra-Thin-Meditation/dp/B07Q34ZKLF
Also, I am not sure if they are QC45 or not, the actual name is "Bose QuietComfort Truly Wireless Bluetooth in Ear Earbuds with Mic (Black)"
Amazon link: Bose QuietComfort Truly Wireless Bluetooth in Ear Earbuds with Mic (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08C4KWM9T/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_E45PAE82VJ9XZXHDCQE6
I tried both, and downgraded back to QC35II's.
Infact, I bought a 2nd pair of QC35II's during the last black Friday.
700's - Really uncomfortable for me, lasted 2 weeks before they went back.
QC45's - Comfy, and better audio than 35. BUT, huge but, Can't turn off ANC, so walking outside was like torture.
​
I've just bought a USB Micro > USB C dongle that I leave hanging out of the headset. Like this:
https://amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0888DTL2V
If you do this, some allow USB C> USB C cable charging, some don't.
The one I linked does :) (56K resistor)
Yeah, I have the cable from the original box, the one that I'm supposed to sue. I was wondering if I can safely connect one end of that adapter to my PC, one end to my PS5, and plug in this cable into the female end of this cable.
you need 2.5mm in and 3.5mm out for bose qc 35 II.
something like this
Most people argue the Sony's are better, which they are in many areas sound isolation and sound quality of music. For reviewers these tend to be the make it or break areas. But the differences aren't as major as many videos or reviews make them out to be for sound isolation. Meanwhile sound quality really is an individual preference and the 700s and Sony's have EQs you can change to match your preference (with the 45s getting one soon apparently).
But for what you posted you need more of an office headset that can double as music ones on the side so the Bose are the better choice IMO, since they are more comfortable and buying the USB Link allows them to work pretty seamless in my experience.
Also the USB Link can be bought separately which is really nice IMO. But its bloody EXPENSIVE 99$ in Canada https://www.amazon.ca/Bose-USB-Link-Bluetooth-Module/dp/B088ZXGVK2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2X9VETGDTFE1M&keywords=bose+usb+link&qid=1644945577&sprefix=bose+usb+link%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-1
But like I said it provides reliability. Maybe you could try a pair without the USB Link and if you get them to work you're good, if not you can buy it off amazon and get it in a reasonable time while still using you're old headset. So my recommendation is try the 700s on in store, if that doesn't work you can also try buying them from somewhere with a good return policy (Costco) and if you don't like them just return them and try another pair. But be careful since some places don't accept headphones returns due to Covid, so it's better to call and ask. Overall headphones are individual preferences and just trying them is the best solution. Kind of a cop out I know, but it's true.
https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Bose-410633-Power-Supply/dp/B00KQQOITW
This may be your best bet, but I'm not sure what this power cable is supposed to look like. However, a used one of these, power cable included, is like $50 on Ebay. So that may be a route, as well.
Sadly they are only available in Japan it seems but here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.co.jp/Focus-SoundSport-QuietComfort-Earbuds%E7%94%A8-TWS%E3%82%A4%E3%83%A4%E3%83%9B%E3%83%B3%E7%94%A8/dp/B091JF4K7B
It depends on what your TV has. In another post you mention that you're using an ARC to Optical converter. If your TV has an Optical out then you don't need that ARC converter and should use the SPDIF to Coax Converter you shared above.
As I don't have that adapter I cannot tell you which way the switch would go, but the physical connections would be Optical from the TV (SPDIF IN) on the input side and COAXIAL OUT on the output side to the 321.
​
If your TV does not have Optical out then I would replace the ARC to Optical converter you have with one that also includes a Digital Coax output, like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088T8F7MJ/
How should I set the converter from option 2b.. Mode 2 or 3? And how should I set the switch, to Coaxial or SPDIF? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32C5GT/?th=1 I’m still trying to understand how it works. I think Mode 3, because the TV is the source, correct? And then the switch I have no idea…. Sorry for so many questions.
This is what I will be testing with.
...and this is of note in the description:
Supports Enhanced Audio Return Channel (eARC) (32 audio channels) and up to 1536 kHz total audio
sorry totally forgot to reply, so i have taken the audio out from my viynl player and used the cable linked to plug into the BOSE speaker line in port, works a treat, obviously you lose the BT aspect doing this but in my head the volume will work bluetooth if i did it via amplifyer with bt built in but im yet to buy one so this works for now - hope it helps
Based on a YouTube video I just watched (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILl1TSW62jw)
I just bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XLIFRZQ/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you're on iOS, you can give my app Boson a try. It lets you control both generations of headphones with one app. https://www.producthunt.com/posts/boson (ProductHunt link since it has screenshots, but you can get it by tapping "Get It")
Depends on the OS. In Windows, there should be two different options in the sound menu, one labelled something like "headphones" and the other something like "headset". You can also choose between them in certain applications, i.e. Discord.
If it's automatically switching to headset mode, you'll need to disable it. Instructions for Windows
You can actually get an audio extractor for this exact thing - something like this will do the job. . You’ll need two 4K hdmi cables, one to go into the unit from your PS5 and one to come out and plug into your monitor- but the box then connects to your sound bar via an optical cable.
Ooooh. Okay! Thank you! I'm assuming this is the one? Would have been nice to be able to not have it plugged in, but I can work with this!
for future reference (ie: for folks finding this via Google months/years later ...)
CEC Blocker seems to have worked. Clearly the Apple TV isn't abiding by CEC standards because it is sending commands even when turned off in the settings.
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CEC Blocker seems to have fixed the TV turning on issue, but of course now the Apple TV remote no longer turns on/off the TV or swaps to the Apple TV HDMI port automatically. The remote DOES however control volume via IR just fine provided you've got proper line of sight to the receiver.
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The specific one I got was:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFL8TM8/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_XBNVKKJBVV6QM3AHEBRZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This specific in line mic. Plugged into your controller, with in-game music and chat volume 50/50 or whatever your preference is.
Bose QuietComfort 25 Headphones Inline Mic/Remote Cable for Samsung & Android Devices - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLIFRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RN7BP2GGS9Z4THW2E5R8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
On.
Make sure you get the ANDROID version of the in line mic.
Bose QuietComfort 25 Headphones Inline Mic/Remote Cable for Samsung & Android Devices - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLIFRZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RN7BP2GGS9Z4THW2E5R8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Do you mean the BOSE Soundsport Wireless ?
They are connected to each other but use bluetooth.
They are here and are excellent !
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bose-SoundSport-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Black/dp/B01L7PSJFO
The wire- LESS ones (completely wire free,) are the Soundsport Wireless FREE. They are plagued by connection issues.
That may make it easier to hunt some down.
Yeah. Buy this boom mic wired or similar wired boom mic cable compatible with bose qc 35, then attach to your bose qc 35 and your xbox controller.
No. not worth it!
Get the Bose QC 35 II then this cable boom mic @ $28 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Boom-Microphone-Playstation-QuietComfort/dp/B07W3W9LHV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1SSLTPGHLG3KY&keywords=bose%2Bqc35%2Bboom%2Bmic&sprefix=bose%2Bqc%2B35%2Bboom%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-3&th=1
You save yourself $80. yall welcome.
This is similar to what I use and it’s perfect - Replacement Audio Cable Cord for Bose QC25, QC35, QuietComfort 25, QuietComfort 35, On-Ear 2,OE2,OE2i Headphones Inline Mic/Remote Control – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VGDVNJT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZP17GV64SM3W90K9SWYK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
but instead of having a special cable, why not just have a usb C device?
QC35's are my last non USB C device. I've currently got a dongle handing out of it.
but instead of carrying a special powerbank, why not just have a usb C device?
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QC35's are my last non USB C device. I've currently got a dongle handing out of it.
You could use one of these:
It works well in the aux socket in my car.
I saw exactly the same thing. I emailed Bose last week, sent them back on Thursday and had notification today that a new pair are due with me by this Thursday! I would definitely contact them - Bose customer support really are top notch.
Actually, yes I was able to solve this! The headphones have to be turned on while using wired mode to have full audio quality and noise cancelling. The touch controls for volume on the right front ear cup also still work in wired mode this way. As for the microphone, unfortunately the 2.5mm to 3.5mm auxiliary cable that comes with the headphones will not support microphone use in wired mode, but I was able to solve this with a 2.5mm to 3.5mm auxiliary cable with a built-in microphone and it works great! This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KURLP0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1338STTM9XTG2ERT1VAT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry about that, it said that in your post. But if I need to get something… how do I go about that? And a ground loop isolator doesnt work? Seatecks Ground Loop Noise Isolator Noise Filter Car Speaker with 3.5mm Jack Audio Cable for Car Audio, Home Stereo System https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KDQT9Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MCHW2R2Q6XAQX0FT8MYN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Did you end up buying these? If so, how were they? Stock padding is just too thin and ears rub on the inside.
I also noticed Amazon has ones that are thicker as well, comments claim ANC is like 50% reduction https://www.amazon.com/WC-Cushions-Replacement-Cancelling-Headphones/dp/B08Z8H2WHL
I purchased these off Amazon a year ago, and they fit my QC35s great, very easy to install, and feel nearly the same as the originals. Would recommend.
The converting a a balanced signal(xlr) to unbalanced(1/4 or 1/8) can cause issues. Sometimes strange issues like loss of vocal frequencies, low output, humming or buzzing. Sometimes to fix these issues you may need to break the grounding of the system, use a different mixer or just jiggle some wires.
I believe the mixer has 1/4 outputs use a stereo 1/4 to 1/8 instead.
Hi u/Dvusken, thank you for your answer. Correct me if im wrong. But this s the way i set up. And I do not use number 1 & 2 in the back of L1 Pro 8.
I connect my mics --> mixer, music from Tv --> mixer, and from mixer's main output ---> Bose L1 Pro number 3 (where it has the 1/4 and 1/8).
So I was thinking of using this to connect it that way with this cable (https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K59J42N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=dual+xlr+to+3.5mm&qid=1634850668&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRjZETEtMWDNZOElIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgxNzkxUjA2MDQxUU5KODJFJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzOTM1OTMyMkNKVkc3NVBQNkZCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==) - Basically the dual XLRs go into L and R of mixer, and 3.5mm goes into number 3 of L1 Pro.
However, when I unplug either L or R of XLR, i still hear clear sound, just not as loud. So which way is the correct way Im supposed to connect? Both XLRs or jus SINGLE XLR to 1 Bose L1Pro8 (I only have 1 bose L1)
Thanks again
Here you go. I game with my NC700’s using this plugged directly into the TV with the fiber audio cable. It’s worth the price.
1Mii Bluetooth 5.0 Transmitter Receiver for Home Stereo TV, HiFi Wireless Audio Adapter with Audiophile ESS DAC & AptX HD/Low Latency, Long Range, Optical RCA AUX 3.5mm Outputs/Inputs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7MKYN1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MJXCR2KE29K1G02N9TGG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had some 3D printed flush mount brackets made. They worked well until I walked into the speaker and broke one bracket.
Since then I have moved to using small floating shelves. I ordered a 3 pack from Amazon… https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EV5DC4G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have used the one that comes with the headset before and it works, but I normally use a different cord that has a mic attached to it, like this
Thanks for your help! I have this one.
It does not seem to be working though, unless I'm completely mistaken on where the IR receivers are on the tv.
Get a headphone preamp and it will absolutely fix the bass problem. I had an issue using a software based "preamp" equalizer. I have also used a headphone amp built into an Asus Xonar soundcard.
These headphones are capable of thumping bass... But certainly not through Bluetooth.
I have these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030HUE9C they seem too work pretty well. I have tried other active earplugs. They have replaceable tips that have come off in my ear. Feel like I'm playing with fire there.
Which cable are you using btw? I was told that not all cables work with NC 700 and was recommended to buy this onehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQJFM2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
It worked just fine on my phone, laptop and desktop. Haven't tried in a plane though.