What are
/r/computer's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/computer:
![SABRENT 2.5 Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/316DDlbE6HL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/computer:
Rufus
7-Zip
CPU-Z
HWMonitor
Core Temp
HWiNFO (32/64)
SystemRescue
balenaEtcher
Synergy
Winaero Tweaker
UserBenchMark
Android-x86
Windows 10
Have I been pwned?
Open Hardware Monitor
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/computer:
The most popular reviews in /r/computer:
Something like this Hdmi - VGA or HDMI - DVI hope this helped.
No, that's a normal X Philips screw. Just need a small screwdriver. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Precision-Different-Flathead-Screwdrivers/dp/B07QYL9KJT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1TNW7NVDA2XUZ&dchild=1&keywords=screwdriver+sets+small&qid=1611832668&sprefix=screwdriv%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-5
There have been breaches of many sites. Whoever this individual is could have simply bought/checked breaches and possible public posted information. (Breaches can be checked here: https://haveibeenpwned.com/ ) If an website has been hacked and your information has been 'pasted' that would mean that someone could simply send you an email with a pasted password. Possibly it's a website where you didn't use capitalisation, possibly they automated sending these mails so they can hit as many people as possible, and their script doesn't distinguish between caps and no-caps.
Either way, you should (Obviously) Change this password and any password of sites you registered with using this e-mail.
well i couldnt find anywith close to those specs under 500.
i found this, the processor is not an i5 but it should be close to the other one listed which is not even close or equivalent to the i5 which is a different story.
HP Pavilion Gaming 15 Laptop, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650, AMD Ryzen 5 4600H, 8GB DDR4 RAM, 512 GB PCIe NVMe SSD, 15.6" Full HD, Windows 10 Home, Backlit Keyboard (15-ec1010nr, 2020 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0897B9J48/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_fabc_e9rTFbPVMTPK8 here is the link from amazon
WinRAR is used to open all types of archived files (.zip, .rar, .tar. .jar etc)
7zip does the same
Download the x64 version
I believe you have to remove the Games for Windows feature. There is a mod on Nexusmods.com, and their installer is pretty easy to use. Besides, I figure you'll probably end up modding the game anyways, just don't over do it like I did.
You can also try this https://www.userbenchmark.com/Software It will tell you how your components are performing relative to other people with the same components? I use that and CrystalDisk to find and remove dying hard drives in all computers I look over
https://www.userbenchmark.com/Software
Go to that site, and press "Free Download", then run the .exe it is downloading.
Be sure to run only this program while testing. That will give the best results.
When the test is done, your web browser will open. Copy the link of that page, and paste it here :)
Hmm... sort of? You can increase its CPU process priority, but for video editing this isn't really going to improve performance significantly. It will use as many resources as it is programmed to use.
Here are instructions for increasing process priority, but fair warning -- do not use realtime priority. Above-Normal is recommended if you feel like experimenting. https://winaero.com/blog/change-process-priority-windows-10/
Having an SSD eliminates most of the problems associated with an HDD.
Though there are a multitude of things one can do to optimize a system like disabling unwanted startup items (Task manager), running routine scans with <em>Malwarebytes</em>, <em>AdwCleaner</em>, uninstalling unwanted softwares and thus limiting background services etc.
Since you already use CC cleaner, many of the required optimisation will be carried out by it.
You could also limit the background apps by going to Settings->privacy->background apps, and disable unwanted apps running in background consuming your precious Ram.
Most of the optimisation will depend on the way you utilise the system.
(e.g. Page file specifications for an adobe user won't be the same for a normal user)
DA is short for Distribution Amplifier. It's the professional version of a splitter.
As to your list. The Hall Research converts you have listed are HDBaseT, like I said, they will not work on a network switch. The one pictured is a different model the FHD264, that is a HDMI over ethernet version and does work with a network switch: https://www.amazon.com/Hall-Research-FHD264-S-Extender-Transmitter/dp/B07JCFTTN5
One nice thing is the FHD264-S above has a "loop out" so you don't need a separate DA. So out of the PC, into the Tx box and then loop out to the multiviewer. Multiviewer example: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Multi-Viewer-Different-JTECH-MV41/dp/B07HCPVY8N
I see the pictures of the network rack. I feel this installation can't be that old. SLXD mics were only released less than a year ago.
I'm assuming that right now the Tx box is putting out a multicast signal that each display is set to pick up. So you would have to setup 3 more streams and the Rx boxes on the displays (or if they have AVoverIP built in).
So getting the HD out of the laptop is going to be your biggest challenge. Once you extract the HD you can get an adapter and hook it up to another computer and simply move the files from the old HD to your new computer. If you can use a screwdriver and have reasonable computer skills you can do it!
My recommendation, completely remove the hard drive/ssd and trash it. Then if it doesn't already have an ssd, buy a 1tb ssd or smaller but about 1tb ideally and then reinstall windows 10. Also go through and make sure all the cables and all components are seated correctly.
Thats actually awesome that you found a working pc on the side of the road though.
Ssd: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QBJ2YMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_M8WKQKXPPD88CQ88XX2H
Or if you need a cheaper one just type in like 500gb, 480gb, 240gb, 120 gb, just whatever you can afford. Just make sure you get the ssd in a 2.5 inch form because I'm not sure if that motherboard can hold a m.2 form ssd. Just make sure it looks like the one I sent above and not like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZTNGTJ8H84XP1C4HNADT
I would suggest this portable monitor.
We use them as a second screen with our laptops when we are on the go.
Edit: the monitor does not need a power supply if you connect it using the Type C inputs.
The dock is a display port, there are Display port to DVI converters that work well, that would be the dock to the white connector on the monitor.
Something like this.
Amazon.com: DisplayPort to DVI Adapter, Dp Display Port to DVI Converter Male to Male Gold-Plated Cord 6 Feet Black Cable for Lenovo, Dell, HP and Other Brand: Computers & Accessories
That’ll be easy. If your not gaming get around a 60 he monitor like this
Really you only truly need 40-50 hz but I suggest 60. The pc itself if your willing to spend that much can be fairly powerful with quite a bit of storage like this this will be way more than enough for everything your planning on doing and more. You could easily go much cheaper if you wanted. But myself I love having a powerful computer. But honestly you should check them out yourself. Find ones you like in your price range. I don’t know what you want specifically. I don’t know what things you’ll be doing in your stem program. But it’s up to you. It’s as easy as typing in 60hz 24” monitor into Amazon and 100 options will be there. Or Windows 10 pc with 16 gb RAM. Ram probably doesn’t need to be over 16. 12 will probably be plenty 8 is bare minimum for intensive programs. Try to get an i5 core. It needs to be intel if you want it to last you more than 3 years. And it’s also just the better option for your situation. You can go lower than i5 if you want but I don’t suggest it. You can always go higher it never hurts to. As for the rest of the computer with those 2 it should be fine. If your running lots of hugs simulations or things like that you might need a bit of a graphics card but I doubt it.
u/lululock's answer is the closest to correct.
Their claim that "the USB port can only provide 5V" is a hasty generalization. A USB port can supply 12v, and up to 20v if it follows one of several standards such as USB-PD. Many new laptops charge solely off USB.
That said, such high voltage ports are rare on PCs, and even the example I mentioned with laptops is the reverse where the laptop takes in power, rather than supplying that power.
There are 2 types of hard drives that are commonly made - 2.5" and 3.5":
2.5" drives are 7-12mm thick (1/4-1/2"), or rarely more then a finger thick. These are made for laptops, they're low power, and can easily run off USB.
3.5" drives are about an inch thick, or 26mm. These were intended for desktops, and are much thicker than most fingers. These typically take more power, so they're not easy to power with USB.
Your drive appears to be 3.5"; if this is the case, you will need an adapter which provides additional power.
Another option you may want to consider is purchasing a 3.5" SATA enclosure, this will turn your hard drive back into an external drive.
This is a random example of one, you can see from the photo that it includes an AC adapter to plug into the wall for power:
https://www.amazon.com/RSHTECH-Enclosure-External-Docking-Station/dp/B076HNWDMX/
Do you have a headphone splitter? If you do then I would look to see if maybe your audio drivers are up to date in device manager.
Here is a compatible kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2VUOBJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FaswFb617NTP716 16 gigs (two 8 gig sticks). If you want 32 gigs which is your laptop's max supported, I'd go with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZEVHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pgswFbJQB8WNJ it's two 16 gig sticks. Both are 2666 DDR4 SODIMM modules.
What you're most typically used to is USB-A. This is a USB-B port. You'll want to get a USB-A to USB-B cable.
Definitely the problem, something like this would be all you need
I had to do something similar temporarily when all I had was an old monitor and I was trying to connect it to my RTX 2070
Oh I see. Well, LineageOS is basically AndroidOS but without the Google elements (no GMail app,etc.). So that probably isn't the route you want to take. If you need/want a different GUI though, you can install different launchers. I never stick with the stock one, in favor of Nova. For a desktop like interface, you may also want to check out Sentio Desktop (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sentio.desktop&hl=en_US). It basically makes the android OS look like a desktop but without the overhead of a more robust OS.
There are actually 6 of them, according to . Here's your choices:
- ExpressVPN
- TunnelBear
- Hotspot Shield
- Windscribe:
- ProtonVPN - though this one does not support torrenting.
By the way, if you enjoy their free services, you can always switch to a paid subscription.
​
Nope, and I bet that it is running on a mechanical drive and not a solid state.
F*** Amazon, but this is several orders of magnitude better for less than $150.
Also, what is the intended use? What is your budget? I wouldn't recommend the above for gaming, as you can't add a video card to it, but will a little bit of looking around you can find something.
something like this would work, buy one from your own countries amazon or ebay tho
I just saw that you wanted a Desktop lol, I listed a laptop instead. My bad but heres a really good Desktop for 550$ on amazon.
Op, if you could spend a extra 100$. I'd highly recommend this 3070ti. 3070ti
as long as you have a thunderbolt port on your laptop, you can buy a GPU along with an external GPU adapter, although it'd be fairly expensive.
i don't have any personal experience with this kind of thing, but i would probably recommend something like this, as Razer is a reliable name brand.
as for choosing the GPU, i'd recommend choosing something from here, you can sort by memory.
Remember: your laptop needs a thunderbolt port for it to work. It's the port that looks like an iphone charging port.
Also, you'll need an external monitor for the GPU to connect to.
Curious.
We know that the 212 is only rated for about 120w, but that shouldn't be an issue depending on the case. Anyway, here's the unit that our clients purchase when they order a 5800X.
It has five heat tubes, so it's good for 150 Watts. And it has a discount coupon currently, imagine that.
Yes he's serious
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Computer-Replacement-Printer-Monitor/dp/B0002GRUIM/
There you go
I Can Afford This Even Though It's Not My Budget And Will Work On Vyond And Roblox I Guess
HolaVPN is not a trusted VPN because it's in fact a peer-to-peer proxy service. It collects all your information and lets other users utilize your bandwidth. It does not encrypt data or use secure protocols, which makes it a highly risky choice. For other VPN, there are a lot of good VPNs like Proton VPN, NordVPN and Surfshark VPN. Of course, if you want it free, then that another story. Here is a site you can get more information.
Google drive is a really bad idea. Google isn’t exactly known for their privacy with data or lack of cooperation with authorities.
Get a VPN and forget all the Google drive stuff unless you like worrying about getting an unpleasant knock at the front door some day. You have as much to worry about with your ISP as they look for torrent traffic and often block it.
VPN’s work all over the world so you can be in whatever country you want and route your traffic through whatever country is offered on the list or location within that country and can often get around ISP torrent blocks. Pay a few dollars a month more and you can get one that keeps no logs and basically does server wipes every 24 hours so nothing can possibly be kept. I use ExpressVPN but there are other good ones out there. Cannot recommend enough a VPN if you’re going to go the torrent route.
You get the side benefit of being able to VPN into Britain for example and fire up Netflix and watch content only available there or many other countries around the world.
The install of windows was corrupted/interrupted. Follow the guide to get back to an OS and attempt to reinstall windows from a USB, making sure you have the complete windows installed on the USB beforehand
What you want is an HDMI Matrix Switcher. Something akin to this: (https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Switcher-Compliant-Available/dp/B01IDSASVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=24WR46GBFFG3K&keywords=hdmi+matrix+switch&qid=1666686214&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjAxIiwicXNhIjoiNC4wMyIsInFzcCI6IjIuOTkifQ%3D%3D&refinemen...).
If you're not interested in gaming at all, a laptop will be more convenient for uni. This should do fine.
What about this one? It's not an AMD Ryzen apu but it's still a pretty decent one after looking at the best ranking processors (granted it's at the bottom of it).
I also found one with an AMD Ryzen 5600G but I think it might be an outdated one and was also above the budget...
Here is an iPad Air 2. DO NOT buy any cheap android tablet, or any android tablet for that matter, they are either too expensive or too cheap and slow, and it's more frustrating to use slow android tablets.
It's 16gb so it should be just enough for excel only
or just buy a cheap chromebook as they come with a keyboard
lol, nope
to protect from brown out damage and abrupt power drops and transients.
You could, as an absolute hypothetical, use something like this. It highjacks one of the internal pci connectors (assuming this thing has one, I can't find anything covering it's innards) and then lets you connect a graphics card externally. Very, very little bandwidth, but then again it would still be more graphics capabilities than you have now.
I don't really suggest it though, it's more of a "hail mary" type of thing that I would experiment with if I already had a spare graphics card sitting around.
Hey, would you mind advising why this i7 didn't work?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00929F88E/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr
I bought a "renewed" one off Amazon. Once installed, my computer would turn on for 5 seconds, then sound like it was rebooting over and over. I correctly applied the thermal paste. I cleaned and reinstalled my old one and everything is back to the way it was.
Do you suspect it was a defective processor chip? Or did I order the wrong type somehow?
Thanks!
Hey, would you mind advising why this i7 didn't work?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00929F88E/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr
I bought a "renewed" one off Amazon. Once installed, my computer would turn on for 5 seconds, then sound like it was rebooting over and over. I correctly applied the thermal paste. I cleaned and reinstalled my old one and everything is back to the way it was.
Do you suspect it was a defective processor chip? Or did I order the wrong type somehow?
Thanks!
This one isn't bad. Could use more RAM and storage but you can always upgrade that later. https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-Computer-Processor-Keyboard/dp/B08Z5C9TF1/ref=sr\_1\_11?crid=2MJX6J9YGH7Q&keywords=gaming+pc&qid=1661424184&refinements=p\_36%3A60000-70000&rnid=2421879011&sprefix=gaming+p%2Caps%2C272&sr=...
Obviously, you won't be able to view both at the same time from one monitor. First off the PS5 should go to the IN port on your capture card and then the OUT port goes to the monitor. On your monitor you can manually select the input, otherwise, it will auto-connect to whatever is the newest connection.
If switching inputs becomes a PITA you can buy an HDMI input switch that you can just hit a button to switch between the 2. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/CABLEDECONN-Splitter-Converter-Compatible-Projectors/dp/B08PKJZ7QB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2BY6E9VDCXXTA&keywords=hdmi+2.1+switch&qid=1660843484&sprefix=hdmi+2.1+switch%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-3.
The other option you have, and its not a great one, is to use your broadcaster (OBS, Xsplit, wherever you use) to view the game play while you stream/record. It's not ideal but it does work in a pinch.
The switch would be your best solution imo.
10th gen is not that old, it might worth it to repair it. A quick google search already gave me an option for a,reasonable price, judging by tools provided the screen is glued in, so not the easiest repair if you haven't done something like this.
here is one i found. kinda hard to find anything decent at that price right now
Without knowing the laptop model this is the best I can suggest. If you can use a NVMe then samsung makes really fast NVMe's but if it is a standard 2.5 SSD then I like this one. Also on sale right now so that is a bonus. https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-Inch-Internal-MZ-77E1T0B-AM/dp/B08QBJ2YMG/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=VG48XBME201D&keywords=ssd&qid=1658766042&refinements=p\_n\_feature\_three\_browse-bin%3A6797521011&rnid=6797515011&s=pc&sprefix=ssd%...
For a basic PC that is fast doing normal tasks (Web browsing, data entry, word documents) something like this would work great and should last 3-5 years depending on how well you take care of it. You will also need a monitor, keyboard and mouse. Around $500 would be the price point for something that's not a "gaming" PC. This PC is listed as a "Gaming" PC but it's low-end for gaming and mid-tier for basic tasks. https://www.amazon.com/16-Thread-Computer-Graphics-802-11AC-6992/dp/B0B2JQTNK2/ref=sr\_1\_41?crid=33Z27DK6YC5SC&keywords=pc&qid=1658492645&sprefix=pc%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-41
So for further information :
https://www.amazon.com/-/de/gp/product/B09JB3YYDG/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
That’s the panel, if you buy it it has instructions on how to install tough i lost these. If anyone has them please let me know.
You should be able to find 8GB sticks that run at 2400MHz.
Just order 2 of these
While getting one 16GB stick would give you a greater capacity, I'm not sure how well dual channel would run, plus it's unlikely you need 24GB of RAM.
I would get a single 8GB stick, as this raises your total capacity to 16GB, and gives you dual channel. The link is to the UK version but if you just look up the name in the version of Amazon for your country it should be available.
I mean it is possible that you have some speck of dust or something under the key & that's why it's sticking. Can you get some compressed air, or, get some kind of laptop keyboard cleaning kit--I have one that has extremely slim tweezers & various stiff brushes and it works wonders when a key is sticking.
oh yeah you’re right sorry i clicked the wrong one, https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-TOPYIYI-Monitors-HDCP1-4-Supports/dp/B08TW7YRF7/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=3XONZ7K25N75&keywords=hdmi+1+in+2+out&qid=1656885001&sprefix=hdmi+1+in+2+out%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-5 this one should work
You need to have install media a DVD or a USB flash drive. You can get 5 8GB Verbatim flash drives from Amazon for $17 and have them delivered tomorrow.
the thing is in a usb to ps2 adapter 5v goes to 5v and gnd goes to gnd (obviously) but then data- goes to data and data+ goes to clock.
Thats why i think you can just get a usb keyboard and connect it to an adapter and then to a ps/2 port on a pc, (i think) right?
EVGA 500 GD, 80+ GOLD 500W, 5 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-GD-0500-V1
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Warranty-Power-Supply-100-GD-0500-V1/dp/B07WC79PPN
This is a good brand, good price, 80+ Gold rated, 5 year warranty and should be more than enough power for your system.
I found a very close mark (1224$), It's an acer.
​
I hope this is the correct laptop for you.
​
Specs:
Manufacturer: Acer
Screen Size: 15.6 Inches (1920x1080, FHD, 144Hz)
Hard Disk Size: 512 GB
CPU: Intel Core i7-11800H (11th Gen)
Ram Memory: 16 GB
OS: Windows 11 (Home Edition)
Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060
This is from the US amazon but should give you an idea of what to look for. You will also need a keyboard, mouse, and monitor if you do not already have one. Something like this will run pretty much all games at low to med settings and some older games at high/ultra.
Ram is a bit low to be doing video editing but you still can do it and can add more later.
Slimline 13 pin SATA Male to 22 Pin SATA Female Cable Adapter-III https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BTDAO6M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_505YV9FK7CH67ZYSZ4G1
I believe one of these would work. You only need this if your power supply doesn't have a free proper SATA power connector
You need something like this device
I will allow you to connect the EIDE driver you picture plus provide the required 5V power (connector on the right side of the driver)
One option would be to buy an external Hard Drive Case, although most are designed for SATA, not IDE. Many do both.
Here is one: https://www.amazon.com/X-MEDIA-XM-EN3451-BK-3-5-Inch-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B00ARNCYEU/
Depends on your budget, I’d say to get something that has a 4th gen ryzen since they’re a decent price and it’ll be more than enough for coding
This is perfect but of course if you don’t have $700 you can always look on FB marketplace, they have good deals
​
This is a Lenovo Ideapad 5 14" with an i5, 16gb of ram, 512 SSD
Weighs 3 pounds and 9 hours of battery life.
​
Hope This Helps!
A UPS has surge protection and gives you the opportunity to shut down your PC properly to not F anything up in the event of an outage.
If you're hell bent on only a surge, then I recommend the Tripp Lite Isobars. They have great protection,and each bank of outlets is isolated from the next ones.
Is this what you mean?
Giveet 1080P VGA to HDMI Converter Adapter (Male to Female) for Computer, Desktop, Laptop, PC, Monitor, Projector, HDTV with Audio Cable and USB Cable (Aluminum Alloy) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MV43SFG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XX99PM6704MQ43BPSAS0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They make these neoprene cable management sleeves that do a nice job of tidying up those cables . They also make a box to put you surge protector. This is the set I bought.
Cable Management Box 148PCS Cable Management for Power Strip with 3 Cord Organizer Boxes & 145PCS Cord Management Wire Organizer of Cable Clips&Cable Sleeve to Hide Wires & Cables for Home&Office https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093WQG7SG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KN8FYJCCFWX295HVZXFS
If you really do have VGA - you can buy this adapter to convert to hdmi and plug in an hdmi cable to your monitor or screen -> https://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Connector-VENTION-Adapter-Computer/dp/B08GZ159FJ/
if you have a DVI port - you can use this adapter cable to connect your pc to your monitor. -> https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics-Adapter-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8UQJY/
If you have a Displayport - you can just use this adapter cable to connect your pc to your monitor. -> https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics-Uni-Directional-DisplayPort-Display/dp/B015OW3M1W/
I've never seen a laptop or PC that doesn't have a CMOS battery. For laptops they look a little diffrent. Usually they are attached to a small cable with a heat shrink around it. They look similar to this.
https://www.amazon.com/DBTLAP-Compatible-Motherboard-Battery-Universal/dp/B07QTGNF4S
From your description, it sounds like you should have no issues with the ram itself unless you just got a dead-on-arrival part which does happen.
If you're doing internal just hook it up directly to the motherboard. There aren't any internal hot-swap solutions that I am aware of. If you do want another dock then this is what I have and it works really well.
While drivers may have an effect, if it won't display anything at all that's not the issue.
It's definitely the power connector, but you don't need a new PSU. You can get 6 pin to 8 pin adapters.
I haven't really got a readily available computer other than my own but I can try. I don't think im doing anything wrong from guides ive seen online. And my adapter is here
Here's some 32gb that's to the spec base off of the stickers Kingston Fury Impact might be faster but can't see the rest of spec since the ho sticker is blocking it,
If you are not computer literate, pay someone to do it for you.
If you want to do it yourself, buy this https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr\_1\_14?crid=PL1YSB1LISO&keywords=usb+sata+adapter&qid=1644417874&sprefix=usb+sata+adapter%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-14 , take out the harddrive from this computer, plug it into another computer and copy the data out.
I think thats a VGA 9 PIN cable
Found an Adapter that I think would work though i am not certain:
Resetting This PC will contain programs like McAfee, ExpressVPN, and other dumb stuff that are built within the manufacturer image.
Media Creation Tool will be a clean install. Just the normal applications needed to run Windows (which is what I recommend.)
While you’re in the OS installation process, just delete all partitions and continue on your main primary SSD.
You can always use a debloater tool found on Github to scrap any unnecessary programs from Microsoft. Just note sometimes it’ll install them automatically after you do a certain windows update.
Actually you all don’t have to be nuts. Just type silicone lottery on the internet you will find what “ silicone lottery” is all about. It’s a “ legit term”. I have in fact with my Ryzen that I bought I am pretty sure I have won a “ silicone lottery” — when I built the system.
By rhe way I should have put this post in “ overclocking subs”
Here what “silicone lottery” is all about;
What matter's the most is the Voltage and the Powersupply Head, This one should work without problems for your model :
That is good, and if you want even more space, and don't mind getting a bottleneck, you can get 2 pcie ahci cards like this one.
​
I think there would be a bottle neck I am not sure. Because those pcie 1x slots are gen 2, which caps at 500 MB/s