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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/diynz:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/diynz:
Snipboard
Adobe Color CC
Planner 5D
IFTTT
Banggood
Omni Calculator
Flic
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/diynz:
The most popular reviews in /r/diynz:
NZ is odd about bidet installs. Most countries, e.g USA and Japan are fine with this seat type attachements, but here we require some "backflow preventer" for some reason, even though it appears super low risk for any backflow issue at all, seriously. Anyway, I'm not a plumber, but I installed one of these and it works well, can connect to the line to the cistern: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2XZIP2 peachy clean!
Found out they are called lid or desk stays. Still not many options in NZ though especially in brass. At least not less than $60. Did find some on Amazon though for $6
National Hardware N208-611 V1890L Folding Support in Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQY82Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_77Y8WZGYM1V62F3698ZQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Smaller scraper is better. I like the 18"/20" handled ones with a 4" wide blade. Trying to use an upright scraper with the 8" blade is typically a recipe for failure. Reason behind this is the amount of force required to work an 8" blade is significantly more than a 4" blade, plus you have deviations in the concrete surface itself to likely deal with. If you can wait for it, this is the type I'm talking about - $20 (plus shipping) from amazon, whereas locally this variant tends to retail at around $60-100 depending on where you're based. Pre-cut it into strips and it should fly off unless they used contact adhesive to put it down with.
If the backing of your vinyl appears like this (where it's a papery/cardboard looking backing that snaps with minimal effort) it's definitely asbestos containing. If you're not sure, feel free to take similar pictures and post them up and I'll see if I can discern between acm/pvc backed.
If it's pvc backed vinyl, you can't built on top of it like someone else has suggested, unless you're using a fibre reinforced self leveler at over the minimum bed depth. Why? Because it's like a cushion backing, which means it'll depress and reform repeatedly, eventually directly causing your leveler to crack and/or crumble. Just rip it out.
If it's acm backed vinyl (or "commercial" homogenous sheet vinyl), it's not cushion backed, which means you can go over it with a leveler (I don't personally recommend this though for various reasons).
If it turns out to be ACM backed sheet vinyl (rather than pvc cushion backed), feel free to drop a reply to this and I'll try help you through the decision process.
We've found that the path light doesn't use much power. It's pretty dim and only goes on for a moment, but it is enough to stop you bumping into something in pitch black. The feature I like the most is getting remote alerts when we're not at home. The smoke alarm can also trigger our Hue lights to blink red and our Sonos music to stop playing: https://ifttt.com/nest_protect
I have both Philips Hue and Lifx. I have them also linked by home automation via Home Assistant along with Flic buttons.
Guests: Press this button to turn on the lights, press these buttons to dim the lights or change modes.
And with Philips Hue, you have a hub that can work fully offline. So if they deprecate the service, your bulbs will still work with the dimmer buttons etc you've got. But in my 5 years of running Philips Hue things have only gotten better and all my bulbs are still working just as well, if not better than the day I bought them.
>dimmable E12 LED
Really?
Seems like they are a click away:
https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-E12-LED-Bulb-Set/dp/B082L5QH6P
Soak your poison of choice (vinegar, meths, kerapoxy cleaner, turps, nuclear option of muriatic acid - don't fuck with muriatic unless you absolutely have to) into the affected areas, give a light scrub and walk away for a bit, come back and then use carpet scraper (like duck mentioned - my personal preference goes to this 4" blade with 20" handle one - allows you to get leverage on it while still being able to maintain a tight shave with the head). Options listed from least aggressive to most aggressive. Adhesive looks cementitious based so you might be in luck.
Once you've finally got the bulk of it off, you're going to have to rinse and repeat but instead of a carpet scraper you'll have to go down to abrasive pads like this to remove the really stuck in stuff.
Looking closely it appears that the tile was laid directly over OSB/chipboard. Would personally recommend considering ripping them out, putting down a proper CBU base and tiling new over that. Tiling for a fireplace hearth really isn't hard (I knocked one out on Wednesday in about 15 minutes, may have been over concrete but putting down CBU isn't going to add nearly as much time as trying to clean this crap off will take you).
I got one of these off Amazon about 3 years ago to feed IR through to my amp (in another room) and HDMI back to the TV and recommend it, I'd use the HDMI as a draw wire to pull through some Cat 6.
My logic was as HDMI standards change I won't need to pull new cables through the wall, just change the converter :)
Worst case, you can buy it from Amazon. Here is a link to one of many: https://www.amazon.com/FOSLUOC-White-34-4FT-Weatherproofing-Professional/dp/B09WKH89NF
Franklin Prosensor is the best. Multiple sensors make it simple and reliable to locate studs. Anything else feels inferior https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG
I did this a couple months ago. I ordered a kit from Amazon, bought a couple sheets of plywood. Worked out to about $1000 total for the kit and materials. Here’s the link for Amazon :
Queen Size Deluxe Murphy Bed Kit,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYPV29W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The instructions are good, except all the measurements are in imperial. I made a spreadsheet to convert everything into metric and it worked out ok. My advice is to do the assembly in the room you plan on installing the bed. I assembled mine in my garage and managed to put a hole in my wall getting it up the stairs.
Please edit your link to remove everything from "?" onwards.
Eg
https://www.amazon.com/Dynastar-Converter-Transformer-Lifetime-5-Year-Warranty/dp/B0157CWGK2
Otherwise it is a referral link, anything purchased on amazon in the next month will send a significant portion to whomever generated that link
A bit annoying, but you can run that off of one of these transformers. The motor is universal, so it doesn't care about the 50Hz/60Hz issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-1600Watts-Capacity-Output/dp/B078H1X1VK
Couple of things surprised me about this.
One, not only are those 3d-printed ones available (that bit didn't surprise me at all), but commercially-made moulded plastic versions: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W2KX9NJ (range of tool brands to choose from, too)
Two, I didn't realise the batteries in the earlier Dysons were so small. Seeing 21.6V 2Ah as standard for the V6/V7, where in the V11 I've got the battery is twice that size at 25.2V 3.6Ah (about equivalent capacity to a 5Ah 18V tool battery).
Hey team, this sub steered me right in my search for a smart lock for my front door. I’ll put up pics of the install when it’s done this weekend.
Now I’m looking for a HomeKit compatible ceiling fan. Why? Honestly, why not?
So I’ve found several models in the US like this one. If I have them sent here, how much of a pain is it for a NZ sparky to install them? Alternatively, are there any HomeKit ceiling fans in NZ? My Google skills aren’t finding any.
This is the adapter I'm using, there are a few reviews from people that mention this issue. I can't really confirm, as I've limited using it to things like nail guns which are pretty easy going.
Something like this but not sure where you'd find one in NZ, maybe a camping or boating store
Don't put a male jack into a female socket in the wall, it just isn't good practice. Buy a punch down tool and run normal cable.
I find https://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/ pretty good for wholesale electrical, but not sure about network hardware so may pay to check.
I bought my gear off amazon, was way cheaper than buying here.
For example you can get a 10 pack of keystone jacks for $41 delivered, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FHC1HXO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FNN7TR99NS6PCKTCEPZW?psc=1
I really like Floor Plan Creator on Android. Might not be what you're after for a kitchen because you can't change textures (just colours), but very intuitive and easy to use. Perfect for mucking about with over a coffee, and not having to fire up the laptop to load sketchup.
Hi. Just checked and Amazon.com.au also have them, however shipping is free. So save a bit of a bundle on that. I’ve started checking the Australian site now as they have many of the same products, however shipping is a lot more reasonable.
There are ones designed to use with handles too Limited-time deal: Jolik Improved Childproof Door Lever Lock(2 Pack)& Handles 3M VHB Adhesive - door handle child proof https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B086J56947/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_ENX25EA2BT0P513AGMTX
Havent seen them over here but this cover does exist.
https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Secure-Mount-Deadbolt/dp/B00BBF7UVA
Other option is getting the thumb turn replaced with a lock but its a hazard in the event of a fire, dont want to be fumbling around for keys.
I've ordered a couple things from Low n Slow BBQ (link to their thermometers), but there's a few other places around. I see most of their lid thermometers are sold out.
I wanted to be able to remotely monitor the meat and BBQ itself, so got a Thermopro TP20 from Amazon AU as a starter. Only used it once so far and it did the job. The button press beeps are very annoying though.
It's the one linked to in the instructions, here it is on Banggood.
I’ve been eyeing up a festool. Pricy but quiet and high performance. I would be running a pre-separator to save on filters.
Just a thought but have you thought about cutting down a thick rubber door or exercise mat? It wouldn’t be clear but might solve a problem in the interim. Otherwise it looks like they sell replacement flaps on Amazon which might have lower shipping than if you bought it direct.
I definitely had someone hold the door for me whilst I adjusted. You can try the top hinge first and if any adjustments don't help then try the middle then bottom.
As for anchoring it's something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Furniture-Threaded-Connector-Assortment/dp/B07HR63VF5/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Screws+and+Anchors+for+Wood&qid=1641288515&sr=8-4
Unfortunately they're unavailable currently, but this is the set I bought. These are decently bright, only had for a couple weeks, so can't comment on longevity. Have lights slight above but to the side of the fire pit. A couple of the bulb shells melted, but they still work fine.
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B09MCTBDGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't use wifi. This is a $60 device that will effectively disable all your wifi cameras at the push of a button.
Here's my quick take. https://snipboard.io/j9oGrb.jpg
I moved the wardrobes to give your rooms more of a cleaner feel than a boxy corner, and I found extra space for the bathroom by removing the hall cupboard.
For the dining/lounge, I would put in sliding doors, to allow you to really open up the space. You could also extend the hallway all the way to the dining room, but I hate hallways, they are wasted space, so I chopped yours all the way back to the back of the lounge.
If you really love hallways, you could give yourself a proper front door (seriously, wtf) https://snipboard.io/zbQPWS.jpg.
Franklin prosensor is the best IMO. Multiple sensors make it really easy to locate. I got one of these from Amazon
Bunnings also sell a smaller one in NZ https://www.bunnings.co.nz/brands/f/franklin-prosensor
I have a Ryobi one I'm pretty happy with. The stand works great, and it does everything I want. Whatever you do, make sure you get a slide compound saw, the ones that don't slide are so much more limiting.
Also don't get an Ozito one. They fall apart and I almost cut my thumb off because the guard broke and I dumbly kept on using it.
Unfortunately, consumer don't have a comparison of all the different models, but heres what they have said:
I can't help but I did find out that there is such a thing as a drainwig. Apparently it was a Dragons Den/Sharktank type product. Unhelpful for you but pretty cool for some people.
https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-DWF2P12-AMZ-Protectors-Disposable-Catchers/dp/B013FA6NJS
Franklin sensors do the best stud finder IMO. I got the wider one ( https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG ) but the one at Bunnings also looks ok. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/our-range/brands/f/franklin-prosensor
If you're really intent on getting the texture out for the next rooms you could put it through a paint sieve like this. I used to use them.i' industrial spray painting and you light be able to get more or less fine ones.
A socket wrench with an allen/hex bit is what I would have used. Or, as someone said, a hex bit in an impact driver would work too.
Also, just figured it's worth mentioning - investing in a decent blade is well worth it. I picked up this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JOAA and the difference in cut quality was night & day - and faster too.
Much less than that if you look around Amazon. I've got two different laser levels from Huepar but the models I've got aren't the cheapie variants (one was $250ish for 1x horizontal 360 2x vertical at 90degrees, the other $135ish for a 1x vertical and 1x super low profile horizontal 360 beam which projects ~8mm off its base). This version is $77 without shipping for a two plane green beam (green is essential for outdoors). They're comparable to DeWalt lasers with their accuracy from my experience, without the price tag that DeWalt has. There's definitely cheaper versions of no-name brands to boot, but with this brand I can at least attest to accuracy.
Yea, like those. Except the ones on Amazon are $74 for six! excluding shipping of course. Was just hoping to buy local. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_ID9SEb6439QQ5
Input Voltage: AC85~277V. Hopefully should work.
well, the ryobi is loud. I've got my in a box which helped a ton, but upgrading that at some point to something that doesn't need to go in a box is definitely on my to do list.
The DC.... also loud. Probably not as loud or as screechy though. Both require hearing protection so I'd put them on roughly the same level. Just saying don't expect something whisper quiet =)
Making a cupboard for the DC to cut out noise is one of my eventual one-day sorta plans.
Re the bag, i think from amazon - probably this one: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-70001-Collector-20-Inch-31-Inch/dp/B005VSAP74/ref=sr_1_26
It was a little big for my DC so I had to pad out the seal with tape to get it tight. Also requires the bottom bag to be plastic, rather than the cloth bag the DC's often come with
Yeah fuck I have the rectangular Bosch Green 250. The red edged sanding plate is starting to disintegrate around the edges where i wasnt careful using it against other surfaces. How do i even go about ordering a replacement pad in NZ? Can I do it in store? One of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Genuine-Sander-Plate-Fit/dp/B01LZR0G0K