Looks great, good work. If you want to speed up growth, buy a small aquarium air pump, and a cheap airstone. They have a lot of combo's on amazon for under $15.
I too started because of Jeb, humorously enough and now I have 5 foot tall plants in my man cave. Grow for the stars.
I use 6 of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082ZKJZP1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Barrina 42 watt T8 strips.
The plants are in 3d printed net cups. I have custom snap in covers to prevent light from entering the tower too.
I have a pretty large system, 47 dutch buckets, a flood and drain table and a NFT with 36 sites and I use that master blend with everything its good stuff. You can get 20 pounds of epsom salt on amazon for 30 and the 25 of calcium nitrate on amazon for $30. This depends how much you are doing though a smaller kit may be a better option.
I would get the 12.5 or 25pound if just starting out. Don't get the 2.5 pound
Digital PH Meter PH Tester 0.01 PH High Accuracy Water Quality Tester with ATC for Household Drinking Water, Swimming Pools, Aquariums, Hydroponics (Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HD5P7WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RKMhFbDK7P56H
I bought a plant and made cuttings. Make sure to taste it first. There are varieties of Portaluca that aren't good for eating. I love munching on this stuff myself. Most people think it's just a decorative flower. They don't realize that Purslane is a true superfood.
https://gab.com/system/media_attachments/files/048/879/568/original/ead10fd496ec2c84.jpg
Not sure if you are interested, but one of these might be easier for next seasons outdoor hydro. I bought a couple and they've been wonderful.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HP28UU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C2ZVH66FEDK0NBK50ZWK
If you are interested in liquid nutrients, General Hydroponics has a great kit, but more expensive than mixing your own.
Just make sure whatever nutrients you use that you mix them into your water in the correct order; if not you risk locking out nutrients and just wasting your nutrients. When I began I thought I would be clever to add all the nutrients into a single jar so I could just drop a jar in once and be done with it... do not do this, mix in the order specified by your nutrient manufacturer.
Amazon link - 25 Lb combo is most cost efficient
Using a PPM meter, their recommendad dosage of "Tomato & Veg" is in the 2k-3k range, way too high. I use DWC and I'm still experimenting, but right now I'm between 1-2 TSP of each powdered nutrient for every 5 gallons.
There’s a 1/2 inch PVC pipe on the inside with these spray nozzles every 10”-12” that distribute the solution to the plants
With those CFL bulbs, you will likely need 3 or 4 of them to provide enough light for those seedlings. That or switch that bulb out with a retrofit LED bulb which will provide much more light. This is what I use in my sunblasters, works great: link
Bluelab. I've been using this one for almost a year and a half, it's been great. Easy to calibrate also.
They are 5000k leds. Here’s the link if you want more info.
Bbounder 4 Pack Linkable LED Utility Shop Light, 4 FT, 4000 LM, 48 Inch Integrated Fixture for Garage, 40W Equivalent 250W, 5000K Daylight, Surface + Suspension Mount, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868DVRL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RQMH6F6DKV56FEZFEYK2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PG8T89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_KSfXFbF8501N7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It says what concentration is recommended on the label. Personally I use 1.5 x the concentration they say on the packaging and I think I get higher yields with it. We take a 5-gallon bucket and fill it in the bathtub with water, then mix the stuff and stir it, then mix a little bit of pH up 2 or 3 times until it's between 5.5 and 6.5.
Another advantage of using the stronger concentration is sometimes when I'm feeling lazy we can just top it off with water and I know that there's still enough nutrients for the plants to do well. saves the step if I have a lot going on in my personal life and don't feel like doing hydro stuff that week :-).
As far as the peppers go, wait until they're nice and firm before harvesting. Should feel more similar to a baseball than a softball. The peppers start out green, but will turn to the other colors if you leave them on the plant for a long time. personally I think the green peppers actually taste better so I never have the patience to wait until they turn red.
There's also boy peppers and girl peppers! The dudes have three cheeks, and the girls have four. When I Google searched it they said that one type was better for eating raw and one type was better for cooking, but I called bullshit. They all taste the same to me.
we are also attempting indoor tomatoes, but so far we've had a lot less success with that. Getting all leaves but no tomatoes. (I'm using the same procedure that I did with the pepper plants, but it looks like the tomatoes are more picky and are going to need a different setup of some sort. We've been doing the bell peppers for about a year now, but the tomatoes are still really new so I haven't had a chance to collect much data on different variables yet.)
I've ordered these two in the past, both still running
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FOUQZK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAVUT2M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As far as I know, both are just generic fixtures being repackaged by a different vendor. The UFO has gotten noisy in he last year, but ti still seems to work fine (and I bought it in 2012). They both run for 12~16 hours at a time, so they seemed to have worked (though I should check for burned out bulbs)/
My preference is to stick to Red and Blue as much as possible. The Ocean Revive one has while, I'm fine with White in LED's (and some stuff I've seen suggests that white LED's work better than Blue for the blue wavelengths). Colors beyond that (include IR and UV) don't really interest me. I think about 100W/sqft is what I keep ending up with and it works pretty well.
I want to say Mars Hydro and Lighthouse/Blackstar were the two main brands I kept hearing mentioned when I was looking around a while back. No idea if they still are. And if you poke around you'll see what looks like the exact same thing being offered under different names. To be cynical, most of what is on amazon comes from the same factories, just with different amounts of quality control and customer support.
I am currently in the process of building one of these OpenAg Food Computers and this item is not on the list that I purchased. I do have some white LED adhesive strips off amazon, which it looks right now that they will be for illumination of the computer side of the unit. Inside the growth chamber we have two Erligpowht 45W LED: https://www.amazon.com/Erligpowht-Indoor-Garden-Plant-Hanging/dp/B00S2DPYQM/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1443799150&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=grow+led+panel+erwl
These will be the main source of lighting growing the plants. The white LEDs are only for visual appeal, which I'm assuming would be the same for those LEDs by GE.
the brightness's of the different kinds of led strips are very different. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?365587-Recent-LED-Strip-Comparisons
I am having good results using cheap chinese 3014 strips with 204 leds/m. I don't think they sell on amazon prime anymore, but that is where I got them originally. The other types will also work, but you might need more of them. i am using these, they used to be $10 on prime https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155YEIS0/ref=twister_B0155YEAHO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
you can find them on alieexpress for even cheaper if you don't mind waiting a month.
I don't think a single strip will be bright enough. I tripled mine up, but it might be overkill.
also, I would recommend going vertical. The space savings is great, and I like the way it looks (it's in my entryway).
I got this one from Amazon.
45W LED Grow Light, UNIFUN New Light Plant Bulbs Plant Growing Bulb for Hydroponic Aquatic Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1davzb63SSH7P
300W isn't overkill for a 2'x4' imo, but get these instead of what you linked..
Or if you can find a used 240W Quantum Board, then you can dim it too fit your plants needs.
I started with CFLs years back, then bought a 300 actual watt burple, then build my own with quality led strips, then bought this Quantum Board. I'll be buying another when I need more light/ have more space.
I have 3' wire shelves for my set-up and could offer some free advice. Go with the 4' shelves; you have more lighting options and the 4 foot lights are cheaper than the three foot lights. If you're growing micro-greens, you can squeeze two 10x20 trays in the 3 footer but they'll fit way better in the 4 footer. You could even turn them sideways if you put 3-4 light bars per shelf.
I have the Barrina light bars similar to this. They come in 20 watt and 40 watt. Pay extra for the 40w. The micro-greens love them with only 3 lights per shelf. Next I'll try 2 lights per shelf and see how they compare. I think they'll do fine.
I bought these things to attach to my lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YKGWWF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
They are really long and feel pretty sturdy. I plugged them into a 16 on/8 off timer and it was good to go!
I bought a 20 pack but if you search for “barrina 40w” they have other amounts available.
The canna aqua should be fine, I used ff nutes my first grow and it fucked everything up because it's full of organic living cultures that aren't good for hydroponics
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGFH25M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0UDhFb3YQNR7Y
Any pump worth its cost will tell you the flow rate at various resistances (heights). For example, this pump lists: - 528 Gallons Per Hour (GPH) @ 0' Lift - 505 GPH @ 1' Lift - 489 GPH @ 2' Lift - 462 GPH @ 3' Lift - 423 GPH @ 4' Lift - 370 GPH @ 5' Lift - 317 GPH @ 6' Lift - 251 GPH @ 7' Lift - 112 GPH @ 8' Lift - Max Lift - 9' 0"
What gets lost is that the lift also factors in the resistance of the whole supply tubing. So if you undersize the supply tubing, you end up increasing your lift(resistance) and may get really poor flow. So people buy a bigger pump, when the supply line was the issue.
Also, you can always raise up your reservoir as high as possible to minimize the height difference.
Your supply line is way too small. Do you have an idea of how many gph you want at each plant?
Edit: Here is my suggestion, based on what I did for my aquaponic system. Run a 3/4" PVC line instead of the poly tube. Go to a hardware store and buy the threaded to 1/4" barb fittings. Get a cheap drill and tap set for the thread size on the fitting. Add a inline valves if you want to balance the flow perfectly.
I'm not advocating and did not use those particular product. I got whatever was at my hardware store in the irrigation aisle. Just wanted to provide a visual reference.
They are made by Barrina, purchased via Amazon. Basically 2x 24 in. 24W LED lights per row (48W LED per row equivalent to 300W). However, one is a full-spectrum grow light while the other is burple grow light. I couldn't find the original listing where I purchased 6 of each. However, these are the exact same lights in a different configuration: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PBGRGCB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZJLWXFR
Citric acid ~~(Vitamin-C)~~ can sometimes be bought in bulk, and is a relatively cheap and contaminate free solution. You can also use it to assist with preserving foods, or as a healthy food-ingredient.
Plenty of other sellers on Amazon; this is just an example. You probably don't need 5-lbs unless you have a very large system.
[These lights are awesome](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NNT3G7J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) - they're just like any other bulb, are white lights, and work really well.
To be honest I wouldn't actually recommend any of the cheapest quantum boards.
Even if I didn't find stuff that violates international safety standards (eg more than 30 volts AC rms, 42.4 volts AC peak or 60 volts DC exposed without proper ingress protection), I was finding obviously fake safety labels like one that claimed to be double isolated (square inside a square symbol that should be a plastic case) yet had an external driver with a metal case. Stuff like this makes me wonder what's going on inside the driver if the maker is so quick to put a fake label on.
I also found bogus "CE" marks.
As an electrician I can't recommend stuff like that and use higher quality lights myself if I'm not DIY my lighting.
For cheap lights the safest option I've found so far that puts out high amounts of light are the PAR38 lights. Something like this is 25 watts for $5 but PAR38 has a narrow 40 degree beam pattern so you would need a redesign.
Yeh, power strip, it controls my top/bottom shelf lights for different hours, my water pumps and fans, every socket can be programmed along with the USB ports. Pretty awesome for hydro applications.
I havent finished my setup yet but I buried 55 gallon barrels with these cut out on the top. I cut my barrel top and it fit over the cut upside down pretty good, I was losing 5 - 10 gallons a day in the summer and my reservoir temp was reaching low 90s so I figured this would be the way to relieve it so it can absorb nutes. Are you using epsom salt? I was running 20 gallon totes and using liquid nutes but it became pretty pricey and I was going to experiment with diluting 10-10-10 dry granules to a solution, are you using hydrogen peroxide in your setup as a oxygen supplement? Looks good btw
agreed; decent airstone and verify water temps are in range.
(over 72F is bad)
Run a 8-12-32 for nutes; ie:
Going guess you are missing a micro-nute or roots are having issues.
> mitigate the chlorine/chloramine
Reducing agents are cheap and easy. Some variant of "tap water conditioner" is sold everywhere that sells fish. They usually contain sodium bisulfite if you'd rather buy that directly. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) works pretty well too.
There are also step bits that cut larger holes as they go. They require some control not to go too far, but they require little force, since at each moment, they are simply enlarging their own hole.
They are not common above 1-3/8" but I see one on Amazon up to 2-3/8"
I grow 12 heads a week on a 4-5 week rotation. Seedlings spend a week in the incubators, then 3-4 weeks outside in the main NFT system. Same day we harvest, we clean the rail and migrate last weeks' seedlings outside, then plant new seedlings in rockwool in the incubators. Only ~20min per week, balancing neuts and topping off system included. Very easy to get fresh leafy greens every day.
I am generally sending lettuce heads home with friends/family, as we do not consume 12 heads per week, but the marginal cost of doing 5 heads vs 12 heads is basically nothing, so why not produce extra for folks who, like us, live in a food desert.
I've never found them too small. Stems of the larger plants don't get too large for them, and the roots work right through them. Smaller plants that grow upward, like basil and such, have root masses to counter balance them, so they don't fall over. Things like tomato and pepper need support anyway, more than even a large net cup can give them. Using one size lets me start everything in about 30mm peat pellets, move them into the 2" net cups where I don't have to pack them in with anything and can keep them in them for life.
I also grow a lot outdoors in milder weather, mostly in 44-gallon totes as Kratky systems. I had a problem with rain collecting in the inset tops, running down through the plant openings, and diluting the nutrient. I worked out a cure using 2" PVC pipe risers in grommets to raise the plant positions by an adjustable amount of up to two inches. That only leave what little can fall directly inside the net cups, which isn't much. And staying with 2" net cups minimizes the area rain can fall on. If you're interested, this is the rainproofing plan. More hole drill work. I had to buy an additional 2-7/8" hole saw for the grommets sized for the pipe, and it did require my 1/2" drill.
And on the drill again, I have a firm belief that the best bargain in tools is the best you can afford. So, my main drill is a DeWalt 20-volt 1/2" drill with two rechargeable batteries. It's sufficiently powerful that I can drill 1/2" thick steel (with patience), the keyless chuck works perfectly, the speed control controls sufficiently subtly to have real control (some cheap drills are supposed to be adjustable speed but really are pretty much on or off), and the batteries can be used with other 20V DeWalt tools. It's $100, but I have two and the oldest has seen hard service and is still in good shape.
I'll bet you know someone who has a drill. If they don't have a 2" hole bit, one can be had on Amazon for $8.50.
https://www.amazon.com/KEILEOHO-Cornhole-Plywood-Acrylic-Ceiling/dp/B08M3HX2Q7
A cheap hole saw kit will cover about any size hole you could want. Any 3/8" chuck drill or 1/2" chuck drill will work with them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y1G2Y7K
You can have your own cordless Black and Decker drill for well under $40. I say cordless, because that will give you the most utility, since you need not plug it in to run it. Stick with a decent brand, Black and Decker or Dewalt. There are cheapos, but they have always been disappointments.
It's an excellent investment for a grower who expects to build more systems and try other things.
But yes, you can use a pencil type iron to burn a hole. Do it outside and don't rush. It heed not be the neatest hole. Net cups have a small lip. I use 2" net cups for everything, so I only need drill one size hole.
Oh, and should you use a drill and hole saw, the method for drilling plastic like that is to start the bit hole and then run the drill in reverse for a cleaner hole.
why dont you just install an ro system, they arent that expensive. https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge/dp/B00DOG64FM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=16PKJKMDQSNOY&keywords=ro%2Bsystem&qid=1656091188&sprefix=ro%2Bsystem%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-8&th=1
When I used common grommets to pass 1/2" pvc pipe through bucket walls, I had many leaks. I changed to these grommets with good results. They have an internal collar molded in that seals around the pipe.
Most any fabric will wick. In my large self-watering containers, I used 1/2" nylon rope. You can get it cheaply in several diameters. Actual lamp wick is readily available.
Will roots grow through these or am I missing something as to how to use this? My issue is that the planter net pot I'm using has to be big enough to hold the grown potatoes, so it's 10 inch diameter that fits inside a 5 gallon bucket (image: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049XEDMK).
These net pots have huge side openings where the vermiculite will fall out, but if roots grow through the bags that would be awesome
To address the vermiculite issue, try paint strainer bags.
Pack of 25 Paint Strainer White Fine Mesh Disposable Bag Filters with Elastic Top Opening - 5 Gallon Bucket Size for Use with Paint Guns and Sprayers - by Golden Coast Unlimited https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBLFPFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0G8B370KSH8NBF5SMXHG
I don't think that's mold, just dried nutrients/salts.
How much light are they getting? You can check the Daily Light Interval with the Tent Buddy app using your phone; select the correct light type though. I had similar issues with my Bok Choy and it was because I gave them too much direct light. I will say that tomatoes love light, so to get burnt it would need a LOT of light.
>But I will point out that you should not use E.C. as a target in preparing nutrient.
Yeah I'm aware that EC is just a heuristic for the amount of salts. That's why I wanted to use ROed water; to minimize that amount of unusable salts in the water making nutrients more effective and water uptake easier on the plants.
>What fertilizer are you using?
It's in the OP, but I see the formatting got messed up a little bit. It's Envy A+B, so yeah it's a 2 part mixture. That's what I looked at the back of to notice that no copper was present. Funny, I ordered GH's set today and have TPS's full set coming as well.
I'd clean those roots up as good as possible, and then dip into some 3% peroxide for a few minutes before transplanting into kratky. I'd pick up a bottle of this as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014174BZM
Same bacteria as Hydroguard but at much higher concentrations, dose at about 1/4 tsp per gallon
And change the solution regularly for awhile, crap is gonna keep coming off the roots.
The visible ones are 3/4”, I got them in a two pack on Amazon for $12. They seal pretty well and are threaded all the way through.
The ones that drain the bottoms of the orange buckets are 2” and were a bigger pain to stop leaks, you’ll want a big ass set of channel locks to get them tight.
One option uses an end cap with a small gap at the bottom that has been deformed into a narrow lip that feeds into an open collector. Can't leak, because it is a leak. But unless protected, it is also a light leak.
Common grommets frequently leak, but if you find better grommets, they never leak. Here's the better grommet style. See the inner ridge that makes it seal around the pipe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UFAI9K?th=1
Of course, using a grommet in the floor of square channel for NFT does not quite work, because it forces the depth of the nutrient film to be too deep. But by using a heat gun and deforming the floor downward, you can create a sump so that it drains properly. You can also use bulkhead connectors that have rubber seals and hard pipe connections.
The grommet, unlike the bulkhead, allows you to move the pipe up and down some to create temporary depth.
But for the sake of simplicity, consider, instead of varying the depth, sticking a small wick in each net cup that reaches the bottom. It will keep the medium ideally moist and can just stay in place. The wick can be anything. Cotton strip, nylon rope, fabric scrap or actual wick material for lamps.
Cool thanks for the info. I'm looking into this system as a start before I move to a large flood table down the road. https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MGSYS-Hydroponic-Megagarden-Container/dp/B0001XLP9G
Here is a light I just purchased. Great deal, and I think it would work well for your plants.
​
Depend on how do you use it. Measure the light on the leaf level. Plants don't look weak, just small. Maybe all ok. You can do it only with android ( iPhone cant). https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.doggoapps.luxlight
Are my lights any good?
My lights are about 6” away from the plants. Should I have bought something like Mars Hydro?
I have a shelf setup, so I thought something long and tubular would have been good. Not sure about Mars Hydro and how it would fit with my shelf setup, because their products are generally a square shape.
My lights:
Barrina Plant Light, 144W(6 x... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B082ZL2L3N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Are my lights any good?
My lights are about 6” away from the plants. Should I have bought something like Mars Hydro?
I have a shelf setup, so I thought something long and tubular would have been good. Not sure about Mars Hydro and how it would fit with my shelf setup, because their products are generally a square shape.
My lights:
Barrina Plant Light, 144W(6 x... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B082ZL2L3N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Is there a definitive source about how much light is needed by which plants?
Also, these are the lights I bought. Are they any good?
Barrina Plant Light, 144W(6 x... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B082ZL2L3N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you have concerns about using Prime, you can use vitamin c to dechlorinate. Companies sell it in premade formulas with extras added in but you can just buy it in bulk in powder form.
HOME GROWN PONICS # 96031 Instant D-Klor Natural Dechlorinator - 1 Gallon ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FG6XXWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NDF60JGT64AX2B3REJXK
It's hard to say much very specific without knowing the intended configuration of the growing area, it's shape and size, and how it will be used.
But I just bought two of these, because they were half price. I did some testing and found they were perfectly adequate for most plants when mounted at about 18 inches and would cover a 2'x2' growing area and maybe more for less demanding plants.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099JB42G3
For 30USD, there's nothing to complain about the build. I did the testing because the sales material was a little vague on intensity. The results are in another post.
Barrina also seems to be selling mostly decent lights for reasonable prices.
This is really cheap and works well and comes with buffer solution I would just get the whole kit. And then you have a backup meter. Takes a few weeks to ship. LCD Digital PH Meter Tester Water Quality Ph Purity Filter (With calibration buffer solution , screwdriver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESCZEHK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_75JGub09TXDZ3
This one comes with an extra pack of solution. CyberTech PHTester PH-107 Digital pH Meter Tester, With 2 Pack of Calibration Solution Mixture Included. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KGKCRA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_B7JGub03YZ51H
Ah If you’re not looking to pump water or deal with any of the hydroponic aspects, there’s probably some cheaper alternatives. There are a lot of “stacked planter” designs out there. Just an example on Amazon:
LARGE Vertical Gardening Stackable Planters by Mr. Stacky - Grow More Using Limited Space And Minimum Effort - Plant. Stack. Enjoy. - Build Your Own Backyard Vertical Garden - DIY Stacking Container System - For Growing Strawberry, Tomato, Pepper, Cucumber, Herbs, Lettuce, Greens, & Much More - Indoor or Outdoor - Stackable Pots (5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W42J0G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J2D4D7T2EZ4XA1XGBMM4?psc=1
iPower GLWING20V1 19 Inch Hydroponic Gull Wing Reflector Hood for 250/400/600/1000W HPS MH Grow Light, No Bulbs Included, High-Reflective Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VJ8YWW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NE5DF37JY5S4BJQ0WHX9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used that. You’ll need to get a new plug end because it’s setup to plug into something I’ve never seen. But it was the cheapest light to use that bulb that wasn’t just a small adapter. I only use the light for seedlings and early veg. I have the flower bulb but it’s not as bright as my leds
LOL-- Finally, my moment has arrived!
So I had this very question and have done it. The correct answer is: seed size is important! Lettuces will do great.
But what about my smaller seeds? re: I like growing edible flowers and not just nasturtiums. The correct answer appears to be toilet paper. Specifically, septic safe toilet paper. I've tried growing on cheesecloth, jute, jute rope, cotton, basically-- algae farm. Not now, not in the beginning, but later on when your plant is nice and mature and the scene is perfect for pythium. The toilet paper, on the other hand, should be reasonably together until the seeds have germinated, and then *spray bottle* break up into your mason jar/reservoir just in time for that water change.
But what about my seeds drying out? Specifically, for the Aerogarden, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07867YYWD?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
(I'm not going to get into how difficult that was to figure out, just trust me). Hydroton will wick the moisture towards your plants when the Aerogarden pump is on and prevent the plants from oversaturation when the pump is off (because the bottom of the netcup doesn't reach the reservoir). I'm running three Harvests with this setup now (minus the toilet paper) and got 14 of the 18 to properly germinate (guess what? tiny seeds). The Kratky setup I did with toilet paper? Algae free, pythium free.
In short, I spent way too long researching and testing this out and came to the conclusion that size matters.
If it’s just for one pot plant you could use a bulb like this. https://www.amazon.ca/SANSI-Hydroponics-Greenhouse-Houseplants-Vegetable/dp/B07VLXX262/
I own a few of them and they work well. They’re legit. The only problem lies with that they don’t scale well for more plants/larger areas. You end up with too many wires/sockets to deal with.
I've done a little searching on the phthalate question before. PVC is such a cheap and attractive material for building my systems but the health benefits of having a fresh, nutrient dense produce source close by is whole point of hydro (for me). Phthalates, while not 100% proven guilty, are a growing concern and purposefully introducing something that could be even a tiny bit harmful would be illogical.
Here's a study that positively correlated the level of phthalates in roots, foliage, and fruits to the level of bio-solid waste applied directly to the nutrient solution in a hydroponic experiment. In fruits they found the levels ranged "from non quantifiable to 6.5 mg.kg(-1)dry matter...." 6.5mg/kg was less than 1% transferred and that was in "an experiment designed to maximize transfer."
These experiments applied phthalate rich material directly to the nutrient solution. For our hydro uses we're talking about small amounts of phthalates leaching from the grow container/reservoir into a nutrient solution. I haven't seen a study on the amount of leaching that occurs but I'm sure it's out there. For the time being I'm still using PVC on my tower systems. Does anybody know where I can get a 4x4" or 5x5" fence post made of one of the safer plastics?
Oh and it seems like you actually did some research on this so you should share those sources! Unless I missed them. Thanks for post.
I haven't counted.
Here is the system 26 days ago. That's all Canteloupe and Watermelon around the perimeter with a couple of Napa Cabbage and Pak Choi plants. It stayed like that for a few days.
https://gab.com/system/media_attachments/files/048/002/720/original/8056eab294e1181a.jpg
And here it is 4 days ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/Hoocho/comments/gdyg7w/passive_hydro_feeder_system_installed/
So less than 4 weeks from placing the seedling in the channel.
I know some people have had bad luck with cheapos off Amazon, but I've had at least three and had them calibrate and hold accuracy as well as I would expect any expensive one to do.
Remember that the people motivated to post spontaneous reviews are usually those who drew lemons or simply don't do the care routine. The best of them, regardless of cost, are said to last a year on the shelf, which is the life of the sensors, three to six months in service. And that's with proper cleaning and storage in storage solution routines. (If you weren't rinsing it after each use and keeping storage solution in the sensor cover cup, that would hasten failure.)
I did break down and spring for this one last time, and I think it's held up better, but it may just be that the soft rubber cap with the sponge in it is a reminder to care for it properly.
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Waterproof-Tester-HydroTester/dp/B078XJQ6HM/
Get this and don't look back.
Bluelab BLU8000 Grower's Toolbox Pen, Conductivity Tester and Probe Care Kit, Easy Calibration TDS and pH Meter for Hydroponic System and Indoor Plant Grow, plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H90O26C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GXJMMKBMW836G0SQ78A4
Barrina LED Shop Light, 40W 5000LM 5000K, 4FT Integrated Fixture, V Shape,T8 Light Tube, Daylight White, Clear Cover, Hight Output, Strip Lights Bulb for Garage Warehouse Workshop Basement (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2Q4VZN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ASY6XR8X766B85RWKE3R
Barrina Full Spectrum Grow Light, 168W(4 x 42W, 1000W Equivalent), Grow Light Bulbs for Indoor Plants, 4FT LED Grow Light, T8 Integrated Growing Lamp Fixture, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZYTBQ15/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PWG6WQJKN01W5JJFCE50
The one's that came with them, it's a 22W panel (its this setup https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L5WK8YX/ ). I took it apart when I got them and its got 76 white-ish LED's, 25 red-ish, 6 near infrared, and 6 blue-ish (which can be turned on and off)....couldn't tell what chips.
For the larger plants, they'll be outside for now. I'd like to find the space to do more inside -- thinking of using wire racks with some of the Mars Hydro lights on top.
I just bought Tetra Whisper 150 Air Pump for Deep Water Applications. Very powerful (I'm running 4 DWC lines) and unbelievably quiet! I just aerate the plant buckets.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V7KM32?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Many people do ebb and flow, not with an auto siphon (actually a bell siphon), but with special fittings. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P3WKFD2
Nutrient is pumped up into the tank through the short fitting that is ideally in a sump so that the tank drains entirely. It pumps for a set time. The depth of the nutrient is set by using different numbers of extensions on the overflow fitting. The tank fills to that level and stays full to that level until the time turns off the pump. At that time, it drains back to the reservoir through the pump. Obviously, they can't just let the pump run continuously, or it will never drain. One way uses the natural features of the auto siphon. The other uses a timer.
I think the regular use of the bell siphon points up that the timing is just not very critical. And if you read here, you find all manner of timing schemes, which usually means they all work.
One factor in setting times is the medium, along with the environment. You would not like roots to dry out, but you would like them to always be moist but able to breathe at ebb. A medium like coir will stay moist longer and will wick nutrient to the top layer. Clay will dray faster and will wick less.
But so long as no harm comes from drying roots, I don't think times matter much, so long as the roots get a good breathing cycle. One of the neat features of ebb and flow is that the flow pushed stale air out of the roots, and ebb sucks fresh air in.
I really think the bell siphon is the darling of aquaponics because it feels like a nice, natural part of a nice, natural system. I don't do aquaponics, but I see no difference between a bell siphon and a similarly timed pump.
Those type of plants don't require intense light so just a simple led bar will do, 2 will be even better.
I used this one for my small projects
It's not actually 100 watts. It's around 23 watts but it worked well for my small cannabis clone drawer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F7DYD4S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/CANAGROW-Sunlike-Spectrum-Growing-Designed/dp/B07W97DV4X
How about this light? Seems to have a real power draw of 170 watts per reviews. Do you do think it would work for a single determinate tomato plant?
If you want to do LED lights, the highest value thing on the market (if you have Amazon Prime) is this guy, as far as I know. I have two set up since the middle of Spring, once I realized even my southern windows weren't good enough for indoor starts. I'm getting two more so that I can do more indoor starts and maybe some hydroponic greens over winter.
The thing with LED grow lights is that there are a lot of crappy ones. I don't know everything about the grow light market, but I have a rule of thumb: if the product doesn't list the output in PPF, PPFD, or PAR, it's probably not worth buying. That's not to say there aren't exceptions in both directions! I also look for the power supply. Some products have the actual make or model listed, some just include it in photos. If there's no power supply in view, or none included in the product (there are millions of USB powered lights on Amazon), it's also likely to be garbage. I don't think you can get a good LED grow light for under $50. The basement bargain ones sometimes hit $50-60, like the one above. You can probably beat that price by buying a constant current LED driver and chip-on-aluminum LEDs separately and soldering everything yourself, but that may or may not be worth it to you.
Long story short, I have had exactly one brand of aluminum PCB grow light for a few months and I don't expect to find anything better for my purposes. A bunch of LEDs soldered to an aluminum PCB and a fairly chunky constant currant power source seems to be the ticket.
If you must go turnkey, ready to do systems like this....
https://www.amazon.com/HTG-Supply-Bubble-Brothers-Hydroponic/dp/B017Y8571C/
Are actually not badly priced, considering you have to do no construction. Not that construction is difficult, but it does require some tools and purchase of materials. This is a basic Deep Water Culture set-up. They are using a very adequate air pump.
It will handle most any sort of plant. The net cups are big enough to support a full-size tomato (with some vertical support as it grows), or bush bean, and vine plants can be allowed to grow out from it on the ground. It's somewhat wasteful of space for lettuce, but you already have the iHarvest, and it's ideal for lettuce, so the bucket system would be for other things.
Of course, you would still need lights, more than you use now. I would want 200 to 500 watts for the six square feet of the bucket system, considering plants that will grow tall. The higher number allows higher mounting and less fiddling to try to find a balance between top foliage and bottom. Since your only experience is turnkey, I recommend coming back her to vet any prospective light purchase. It's a snaky business.
You can build this system cheaper, but considering the cost of lights, which you cannot change much, it wouldn't be all that much cheaper.
Note that systems with air pumps are noisy, so it's not a livingroom or bedroom system or even for a room that can't be closed off.
You don't need an entire reverse osmosis filtration system to get decent water. I would use a pre-filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1JWDD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_PKKEXSNPFWBR2HWRFQM8 for the initial fill. Then use sodium thiosulfate to neutralize the chlorine/chloramine. The amount of sodium added as a byproduct is negligible.
That would be a minimum for me. My opinion, not carved in stone fact.
Over my 18"x48" greens growing setup.
My current light is iGrowtek 2 feet LED Grow Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088BJPF4S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share But it hangs about 2 feet above the plants could I avoiding getting another light if I just lowered the one i have down to a few inches above? I only have 10 total plants
I don’t know the answer honestly. The product page states:
“only consumes 132W±3%”
Is that the usage number you’re referring to? I’ve been wondering the same thing and whether I should add more lights as my plants take up more canopy space.
For Bluple lights you can get colour correction lenses. Something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Zotron-Correction-Greenhouses-Hydroponics-Protective/dp/B01CW25F6C
(I'm not vouching for this exact product, as I have not tried it)
I’ve tried a good 8-10 different seed packets all purchased last year, I’m doing the pH adjustments on the water, I have them on a heat mat indoors in an air conditioned room in Southern California, with Masterblend nutrients mixed to full strength to the specifications. I also use a dechlorinator for the tap water I’m using. I just don’t get it! All I am think of is that the seeds don’t like the nutrients or that the window they get in the room isn’t adequate. Do you need a grow light to sprout seeds? I thought the first week or so can be grown indoors in the dark but I do have them near a window.
What kind of pump? AC/DC? Brushed/brushless the other option as opposed to adding a partially closed valve would be to add a motor controller. If it's a DC, brushed motor you can easily put a pwm controller between the 12v power supply and the motor. Something like this would work well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086XHKFGN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_3HP9A8M7F50WJQZB6214?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and it's nice and affordable, also this will reduce the power draw of the pump whereas adding resistance to the water line with a valve would actually increase the power draw very slightly
If your motor is brushless, than this probably isn't worth it as you'd likely have to hack out the built in controller and replace it, which could get technical fast and could likely require splitting open the guts of the motor
I use Root Farm but I don't know how good it is. https://www.amazon.com/Root-Farm-Nutrient-All-Purpose-Supplement/dp/B078G9BM1P/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=root+farm&qid=1612821489&sr=8-12
Sorry yeah just thought it was different, but I must have misread something. I know you probably know this option but you could start the seeds in dirt and wash them off when transplanting. Would suggest something like this if you're worried about the life of your pump. For a prefilter I have tried garden fabric and other mesh fabrics to some degree but found it unnecessary. Also, I have to say, I've never had a problem with dirt, rockwool, even hydroton in my pumps. They can be taken apart and cleaned almost entirely, and at the end of the day they cost like $13. But no harm in keeping them healthy, am interested to see if you find your solution.
Dr. Meter makes a nice meter that I can't complain about(other than the temp being permanently in Celsius). Really easy to calibrate and uses double aa batteries that I have yet to change after over a year.
I also ordered from HandPicked last month.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBCD7FB/
They set two extra plants. All were healthy. 22 went into a rain tower where they have been growing well for two weeks. I'd certainly buy from them again. They were essentially the same price both places.
These are plenty bright for a 1x2:
You can get similar but cheaper lights from Alibaba if you're willing to deal with ordering from China. I've heard good things from "Meijiu" and "King Brite" brands, but I don't have any firsthand experience.
If money is tight,you can get less bright LED lights and they'll probably work just fine. I prefer "quantum board" style because they're less hard on the eyes, but many people grow perfectly good crops using the red/blue lights.
I’m not sure if this will be welcome feedback but the first thing that jumps out at me is the brand name. “AquaShield” immediately makes me think of defense from something rather than a controlling or monitoring system. So my first impression on seeing any of the ads is that this is likely a product for fighting some issue in a hydroponic system, maybe like Hydroguard. You might seriously consider changing the name before your official launch.
Since you get so little text in each ad, why not keep the copy very simple like you did in your post? Something like:
“AquaShield - smart hydroponic monitoring system
Automate your hydroponic garden, monitor environmental conditions, receive alerts.”
Source: Have worked at several successful startups during product launch, not in the gardening/hydroponic space though.
So I bought this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083432HQQ (if you wait, it drops to $161 every couple weeks, put it in your cart and leave it there for the drop to show up) and then I went and looked at review video on Youtube for it and description had a discount code :-) So here you go something that runs for $189 I bought for $141. Code I used was PB2000MGI
Yes these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QFPBQDR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If I did it again I might spring for quantum boards strips so I can have more distance and more room to work. But those come at a steep price.
I wouldn't worry much about brand. Just get a reference solution, and test the EC meter against the reference solution.
Here's one similar to mine. They're cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Drinking-Reliable-Accuracy-Temperature-Hydroponics/dp/B07ZQ92JJR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L353RXL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_FCM1FbB2M48WW?psc=1
I tried having them closer to the plants, as well as having both of them on. However, I think they're too intense as the plants started to burn.
A little bit of water in the bottom isn’t an issue normally.
There’s kits that make life much easier, like these .
It's a great design! Saves floor space and so far it's way easier to maintain than my previous system.
I found that these net cups fit PERFECTLY inside a 1 1/2" PVC fitting, btw. They're technically 2" net cups, but they're a bit smaller than others on the market - and their inner diameter slides in perfectly rather than having to be crammed in.
Here you go. They're like what your talking about but with a nut to make them tighter. No leaks yet
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PSMNJK8/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_fabc_XXDWFbHHTC9G7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would go with this. Is essentially what's been used to isolate microphones from extra vibration for decades in shock mounts. Also if it just stays too loud this is the one I use and it's pretty quiet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_alHPFbTKJZAX6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Dual-Diaphragm-Pump/dp/B008UF9XLY
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this one isn't too loud. definitely drowned out by the fans
>unching romaine? I get this a lot when I grow ro
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQ7CT7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was looking at these online EC Meter at Amazon
Will eventually get one but trying to limit the gear for the first couple of runs. With gardening I have been going slowly to spread out the joy of learning and experimentation !
I just bought the pump you attached. What do you think about a simple 250 gph submersible pump from Amazon? It's a pond pump but it seems to fit the mold.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JPGID2/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_Ds2nCbVVMRX7F
I use these on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074NCN7WZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Maybe they're pricey, but not one time use (I've rebuilt my setup after a cross country move with no leaks). Also, it's FDA/food safe which is very important.
You can find pretty cheap pumps on amazon that will work. In Zipgrow towers they generally have 2GPH drippers in them.
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The 550 should give you a total of 7.2 Ft of head pressure and give you a bit of extra flow for adding towers
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Cheers
I use the ph drops from general hydroponics. A huge bottle was less than 10 dollars on Amazon.
Just shoot for yellow