A hot ultrasonic with EC cleaner is the best way when you have a lot of flux that won't budge. Once it's out drown with 99% isopropyl and scrub with a fine toothbrush. Quality of the brush matters here, better ones make your job much easier. Personally I like brushes like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDW3JM1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1BZbGb27WR3N0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Let the board dry either on a hot plate set to a warm temp or in a toaster oven at 200f or something. I like to set it for around an hour. Too much heat when drying can cause nasty issues. Should look factory new once complete.
your best bet, is using an OTG cable adapter and plugging in a mouse to the usb adapter and using that. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Micro-USB-OTG-Adapter/dp/B00BFYH11Q Something like this should work just fine. If you have questions feel free to reach out.
if you want it to lock in place you can always attach a third party magsafe compatible magnetic ring like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/ESR-HaloLock-Universal-Conversion-Compatible/dp/B08S6XQFDM
Yes.
First: Cracked S6 - sent in, got back low quality glass (no oleophobic coating) and notification light was blocked but it worked so whatever. Glass ended up hairline cracking by itself before I broke it again myself
Second: Cracked the same S6 - sent in, got back with low quality glass again - was playing game once while charging causing hot phone. Heard a loud cracking sound, saw a very dead AMOLED screen.
Third: Sent in cracked S5, got back with seemingly higher quality glass than the S6. It also eventually hairlined itself.
Fourth: Sent in cracked S7 edge, got back after a longer delay than usual but with a very very burned in screen (sent in with a flawless OLED panel). Glass seems high quality finally, but I sent in the phone to get fixed so I could sell it so the burn in was a problem.
Messaged them and they said to send it back, it was delivered to them two Fridays ago (7/13). Since then, after asking for an update the first time they said they were waiting for LCD order. After asking again, they said they would provide an update in the afternoon of that day which they didn't do.
Spudger
Edit: Specifically that one seems to be part of this fairly inexpensive set of spudgers. https://www.amazon.com/Kingsdun-Spudger-iPhone-Tablet-Opening/dp/B015K7KQ92/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=metal+spudger&qid=1602186300&sr=8-6
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product_cd_key_viewer.html This is the software I use to locate lost keys from customers computers. However if it's been formatted it's not possible to recover it. Customer has to contact Microsoft directly by verifying some information.
Cheap addition: Nail tees.
They're q-tips, but better. The cotton is tighter and doesn't snag on components as easy and they provide more precise cleaning capabilities.
Your never going to get it out with JUST a suction cup. You need extra help
Lets look at the displacement of the glass to do this properly. Most tools are not either sharp enough or curved enough to do this without possibly shattering the glass. The #10 curved x-acto blade will be able to displace the glass well enough that it does not shatter from to much pressure in one location.
Take a #10 xacto blade and just run it up and down the bottom of the preheated glass. It works on the same concept as using a cut card to release a galaxy s5 screen. With a suction cup also at the bottom to lift as you slide right under the glass/paint. Perfect every time. Once you get any sort of entrance into the glass. You just slip a card in., add a little heat around the entire glass and zip zip zip zip, your done.
here are the exact blades i order from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NAUBA
I also think having the more flimsy #10 blades that come in Chinese kits are amazing as well in their own right. They are very soft compared to the harder blades i linked to.
Videos will be made soon for this as well.
Might just be a bad battery tbh, batteries are notoriously bad in this industry. Try with another? Also, go buy a usb power meter from amazon so you can actually watch the current flow into the device.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerJive-Voltage-Multimeter-chargers-capacity/dp/B013FANC9W
Also I would recommend buying a standalone iphone batter charger board. This will charge the battery independently of a phone and let you watch the input current along with the current voltage of the battery.
>How do I find a replacement piece?
you can just google that, you know? :) by the number on the sticker its dell xps charging socket wire, you can buy a new one on ebay/amazon/etc, like here https://www.amazon.com/Power-Cable-Harness-0P7G3-CN-00P7G3/dp/B01ALFONGA
As far as I can tell this is an Apple screen still, the frame isn't abnormally thick and neither is the glass and there's apple logos on the flexes. The colors definitely do seem off though. No touch issues, brightness is fine, etc.
reread again that i wrote or to summarize, you don't have engineering and programing experience to pull it of (or you wouldn't be asking this), it would cost you way too much money (which ultimately you either don't have or even if you do, you wouldn't spend on a project like this) and it requires stuff like full schematics that often are not even possible to get, should i continue?
>honor LCD kit looked like the same flex cable
because huawei releases a ton of same model diff name phones, so for example p8 lite 2017 version https://www.gsmarena.com/huawei_p8_lite_(2017)-8516.php is also know as p9 lite 2017, honor 8 lite and even friking nova lite or gr3 2017, even thought it uses same screen, but actuall diff models have diff screens that are not compatible (like you can't put p9 screen in p8 or p10 and so on)
>brother does phone repair
having experience in replacing one part with another is not equal to doing custom engineering or programing jobs..
Check Alibaba. I had to replace a housing for an iPod Touch 5 and got it ordered from there. It was from China and I had to wait, but it was my only choice to find the pink one.
I use this because it is one of the cheapest: Cheap Hot Air Gun It works well and is great for my needs
How does backwards charging work? Does the charger pull current when it does that?
It has good reviews the other glass break tools are literally hammer looking things for cars.
We have something like this at the shop I work at https://www.amazon.com/QGeeM-Delivery-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Chromebook/dp/B07QXMNF1X/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+and+usb&qid=1619052464&sprefix=usb+c+to+hdmi+and+&sr=8-6
You just plug it into your phone, plus an hdmi cord into the TV along with a mouse and keyboard into the USB ports and you can navigate with the mouse, type with the keyboard and see on the TV.
As far as backup/recovering you could use twrp or if you just need files and photos you can copy your dcim folder to an SD card.
Since I know how many there are... https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mycompany.anton_mokshyn.touchscreentest
Quite handy, since the normal painting app sometimes hit clearly shows the defective part and instead just paints a straight line.
Oh neat! I could have used one of those today. Thank you!
Found one on Amazon. At the very least I think this would, over the course of time, statistically reduce the number of cable tears due to screens falling over when replacing connector shields.
Looks like Amazon has them. $5.99 I just searched “Google Pixel 2 camera lens” Alovexiong 2PCS For HTC Google Pixel 2 XL Replacement Back Rear Camera Glass Lens Cover + Adhesive Fix Repair Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C58CTN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7fcwBb1CT2TKB
i've only ever ordered mine from Amazon(only ones i can find with an apple logo). It requires swapping almost all of he internals over. https://www.amazon.com/CELL4LESS-Housing-Complete-Assembly-MidFrame/dp/B07L42K57B/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=iphone+8+housing&qid=1570241435&sr=8-4
I've been using Chipquik for years now mainly because I don't like how Amtech flux smells and how it's very sticky! I could be wrong.
I’d recommend the ifixit tool kit on amazon or a set of 2uul brass screwdrivers on AliExpress I switched to these a month or two ago and after repairing phones for the last 5 years these are definitely the best tools I have used.
Also for unplugging connectors or removing battery’s I bought a set of plastic car trim removal tools they slide right under any connectors and pry up battery’s no problem! You can find these on eBay
Starter tools I’d recommend - Tweezers Plastic pry tools Decent screwdriver set
2uul kit these can be found cheaper on aliexpress
I bought this iphone 7 repair kit from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Esdabem-Repair-Tool-Kit-iPhone/dp/B01LYBG861/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1O8F6TL9NBPN0&keywords=iphone+7+repair+tool+kit&qid=1553667693&s=gateway&sprefix=iphone+7+repa&sr=8-3
Has everything I need and drivers are actually pretty good. Probably done 100 screens with this kit. Only thing I have replaced is the black spudger because the tip wears down
It's actually not mine the laptop and I told him the same thing and he still wants to replace it
I think you didn't answer to my question. Can a motherboard that says just L755 be used to replace this one? For example this one: https://www.amazon.com/FidgetGear-Satellite-Motherboard-A000080670-DA0BLBMB6F0/dp/B07NQJ2XBM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=l755+motherboard&qid=1552851236&s=gateway&sr=8-1
>find system version
go to settings and at about the bottom, there should be smt like "about" or "about device"
>used it quite a bit after
you could try some apps like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.defianttech.diskdigger&hl=en, but i wouldn't except much, if its rooted, some computer apps for recovery can try to mount the device memory as a drive and have a bit more success, but neither will provide 100% results, especially if the device was used after
For Android, there is wireless adb over wifi and it's adb backup feature. It's not perfect but works as a backup feature for some apps. For files i always install FTP server on the phone and download files that way.
are you talking about these? https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Official-T-Mobile-Standard-Unactivated/dp/B07MTTCLBW
What do you mean drops to 2g, do you mean 611 call?
with smt like this
or just google smt like
>usb current tester meter
No, you'll need the "Special Edition Unobtanium" high temp silicone mat that costs an extra $1200.
​
Which is just a silicone mat with some carbon/ceramic fiber on the top, one of these blankets under it https://www.amazon.com/AAGUT-Retardant-Fireproof-Resistant-Insulation/dp/B0956S3XB6?th=1 and some fancy graphics.
Thanks for the advice! I am more worried about it setting on fire under my head whilst I sleep though - is that a bit of a myth or is it realistic? This is an example battery replacement: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Li-Polymer-Upgraded-Capacity-Replacement-Professional/dp/B0B7JFHTL3/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=2MX5K0BY1JT0L&keywords=iphone+7+battery+replacement&qid=1662504539&refinements=p\_72%3A419153031&rnid=419152031&spre...
>installed TWO app locks <> says "Videocook"
so at least one of them is this?
and of course you didn't clicked and gave it more permissions or pressed "install" or "ok" to download more apps from it?
Yep. There are people that provide that service on EBAY. The use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/BGA153-169-ALLSOCKET-153-USB3-0-Unecrpted/dp/B071R2STNQ
and open source software.
"There's an app for that!"
And in this case, there really is!Just follow the instructions on the screen and it'll tell you if the phone is still waterproof or not
I've used a dremel and a small fine point bit to grind down the screw head until there isn't enough screw to hold the backplate on. Then use pliers or a cutting tool like this to slowly twist the rest of the screw from the hole.
So i finally got the back cover off! The key was to use a razor blade (https://www.amazon.co.uk/American-Line-Blades-Scraping-Traditional/dp/B00PS2Y2ZO) which was able to get in between the edges. I had put the phone on at 80C for 10 minutes and used the suction cup and plastic tools but still no luck. I then heated for another 10 minutes and finally got it off with the blade. However I don't think I needed to heat the phone for that long - the thing that did it was the blade.
If your screen decided to die, a better alternative to a new screen (180.00 us) would be a hub like this. (17.00 us)
Hi i have recovered data from an huwaei with this, i buy this then put and hdmi screen on it and an usb and keyboard and i was be able to recover my data
So I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z7NGSRK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
and I have the SM-G991U1 - so it should be compatible.
If it's not, do you know what would be?
Get a good set of screwdriver or at least good bits. Why? Because you are going to use them a lot. For occasional necessities buy the cheap tools. IMO the iFixit bits are junk so i would suggest the Wiha path or this set from Wera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X7JSBHG
Your only supposed to use metal to initially get in the phone... You should be using plastic cards or something similar to actually open the phone.
If your using a Sesamo your tools WAY to thick.
This NEVER happens to me and you need to reevaluate your standards. Once heated up I have the back off in 1-3 minutes.
Practice soldering on boards that are headed to the trash anyways. Take components off of the board without damage. I read this book when I was younger, it gives a very good explanation of how soldering works. Understanding the heat transfer, and physics when solder is actually flowing and forming a bond between components is a big help. The book also covers the types of components, what they do, and dc circuits. Hope this points you in the right direction.
That is definitely a wifi antenna. This is what you need. iPhone 6S Charting Port on Amazon
I linked the charging board I used above: https://www.amazon.com/Kaisiking-Professional-Battery-Activation-Compatible/dp/B077M6R86P
Just in case that charging board was "playing it safe", I did connect 5V direct from a USB cable to different points on the connector with no luck. I peeled back the tape on the battery a little, but didn't want to risk bypassing the connector without any prior knowledge of what I was looking at.
Would one of these demagnatize the screw? If so would the damage already be done since I used a magnatized one already? Thank you.
Thank you. Just curious, would I be able to buy one of these and demagnatize the screw?
Give me a shot of the phone's sides when resting on a flat surface.
As it looks right now, you'll just need a screen. The iPhone 6 isn't difficult to do, but there are a couple of spots that if you fuck up, the phone is a large brick.
Apple's repair program for broken screens is $109, not $299. The increased expense is for if there is anything else wrong with it.
OK! as said i started with visual inspection. The phone has seen some rough use over the years, but i think that only housing was suffering. After i started to disassemble it, i found that the slide flex cable (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/mainboard-Flat-Cable-for-Nokia-E75-Cell-Phone-Flex-Ribbon-For-mainboard-with-components-Flex-Cable/32620284383.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.13.1hYBLN) is broken, i would say 1/4 of it is torn. Is it possible that this might be the problem? Otherwise phone interior looks fine, except the 2 metal plates that cover this flex cable are a bit oxidized. But still, i thing i should give it a go with this flex cable since few wires are snapped. Those might be the ones that are transmitting keyboard signals.
My guess, after five minutes of looking around, is that the LCD itself probably is. The frames may be different, especially considering the d856 is dual SIM, so you may have to switch the frames.
I base it partly on this item: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Technology-Product-in-China-Good_60202195906.html?spm=a2700.7724838.35.1.BAZ0p6
Which was the only result for a d856 that I found in the few minutes searching. None of my regular American based suppliers have anything listed for the d856.
This is merely a good faith guess. Proceed at your own risk.
OLED Screen Replacement for iPhone Xs Max 6.5 inch Model A1921, A2101, A2102, A2103, A2104 Touch Screen Display Digitizer Repair Kit Assembly with Complete Repair Tools… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MTMX129/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VTG231T2H9WT8FCG3YPB. What about this?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0721VVPC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DT9VJCRMD3J0WDWT6K6V
And this if the screen isn’t already off
And yeah that should be a good display to buy
HDMI LCD Controller Board for iPad 3 4 9.7" LP097QX1 SPA1 SPAV 2048x1536 LCD M85 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y426S7Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NH9XVWD7ZQ17VMWQDWT5
Maybe this will work. I have not tried it but it’s should work the same as a pc controller board
I have not tried it on an idevice but its possible.
used hair dryer for long and ripped it with this please forgive me😂😂
If you just wanted the data off the phone for the time being, you can get something like one of these docks that allow you to connect the phone to an external display, a USB mouse/keyboard and a USB drive/HDD simultaneously.
Apart from a puffy battery, I have seen this with replacement LCD's that have no foam lining. During manufacturing, Apple put a double sided foam lining around the edges of the digitiser. Apart from stopping dust etc getting on the LCD, it also prevents the LCD warping upwards and touching the digitiser. This is destroyed during screen replacement, or removed altogether when you replace the LCD.
I get the single sided ones, not double sided for the iPad 2/3/4, or Air (so they don't get ripped when you remove the digitiser again). They're awesome.
I have a few of those cheapo spudgers that come with screen repair kits. I'm thinking of getting the metal spudgers. http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Metal-Spudger-Set/IF145-017
I'm more concerned with the screwdriver itself and the tips.
Thanks
>use a wireless charger
your phone has full metal body and from the specifications https://www.gsmarena.com/lenovo_k6_note-8318.php doesn't look like it even has any wireless charging capabilities, so - no
TWRP: https://twrp.me/samsung/samsunggalaxys6.html
Odin - you can download it for free, you can use the newest available 3.13.1 and it'll be fine.
Essentially, you need to enter download mode blindly. On powered off phone keep vol- + home + power pressed, then after a short while, press vol+ to confirm. You should see a device detected in Odin. If your phone is still turned on, keep the same keys to force-reboot it, then a moment longer and again vol+ to confirm. It may be tricky if you're doing it for the first time but it's good to have device manager opened so you can see when USB device is unplugged and plugged back in, plus you should feel a vibration on reboot. Once phone is in download mode, use Odin to flash TWRP recovery. That's easy, just add file you downloaded (in .tar format) as AP, and hit start, the immediatelly enter recovery menu by keeping vol+ and power pressed once you see that Odin finishes the process. If you do everything correctly and your timing is good, you should see phone being recognized as adb device in device manager and it'll also be visible if you use "adb devices". If that works fine, you can either use adb pull to download files from it, create full memory dump or use adb plugin for total commander to browse the filesystem. If you don't see an adb device in device manager, then it's likely that phone booted to Android and your timing was bad. You need to repeat the process since OS swaps custom recovery you flashed with stock one when booting.
For enabling and authorizing adb for it to work on fully booted phone, you can use stuff from here: https://gist.github.com/varhub/7b9555cdd1e5ad785ffde2300fcfd0bd Obviously you'll have to look for adbkey.pub in different directory if you're on Windows or MacOS. To verify if you have authized adb just use "adb devices". If it won't be marked as unauthorized, you're free to use scrcpy.
Download Odin3, download the TWRP release for the specific S5, Download and install the samsung USB drivers, put the phone into ~~DFU~~download mode, plug it in to the pc, run Odin3 as administrator, Find the TWRP release file and use the PDA function to flash it onto the phone, once completed don't reboot the phone or let it reboot on its own, go straight to recovery mode which you will see TWRP, from there don't let it reboot.. Find and download Aurora File Manager, copy to an SD, go into recovery and launch Aurora FM, mount all partitions, from there navigate to /data/system/ and gesture.key will be pattern, password.key is obviously password, so delete that file. Reboot the phone and you're good to go.
EDIT: It would be wiser to have the sd-card ready first with Aurora FM in it.
EDIT2: I am dumb, not DFU, Download mode (pwr + home + vol down)
Microsoft Compatibility Telemetry is not necessary for your system, you can shut it!
See the following:
https://www.diskgenius.com/how-to/microsoft-compatibility-telemetry.php
If they're really going for OLED, it's most likely going to start in 2018, as many rumors suggest. And knowing Apple, it's going to have "Retina"/lower than Android flagship ppi because the hardware ppi has historically complemented iOS' display scaling mechanism. iPhones originally had 163 ppi, which quadrupled in the iPhone 4 to 326 ppi and remained the same through to the 6S (excluding the 6/S Plus). And if this density thing remains true, then Apple will probably design an OLED display with a Real-Stripe RGB subpixel layout to compensate for the lack of a physically higher ppi.
Rumor also has it that it's going to be flexible OLED, so Apple might be spending those extra years of R&D to make it match the durability of their LCD screens (have you seen TechRax's S6 Edge Hammer test? It paints a bright future for the durability of flexible OLEDs!). Who knows, they might use flexible OLED tech in a flat screen just to make it more resilient to breaking.
Download the PDF for yourself! https://gofile.io/?c=3Oipsb
well, as fast as I started, I finished :(
Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7601] Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. Všetky práva vyhradené. F:\temp usb\scrcpy-win64-v1.12.1>adb devices List of devices attached ZY225C9PPB recovery F:\temp usb\scrcpy-win64-v1.12.1>scrcpy INFO: scrcpy 1.12.1 <https://github.com/Genymobile/scrcpy> F:\temp usb\scrcpy-win64-v1.12.1\scrcpy-server: 1 file pushed. 5.2 MB/s (26202 bytes in 0.005s) /sbin/sh: app_process: not found ^C F:\temp usb\scrcpy-win64-v1.12.1>
:(
Embarassingly, I have to admit that I installed the wrong Rstudio (for "data" science teams). After getting the correct program, I was able to look into the images I've pulled. Thanks!
​
Apparently some folders have red crosses on them, do you know if this could cause any issues?
Not that I support Amazon, but you can definitely find this on Amazon. https://www.amazon.se/MMOBIEL-dubbelsidig-sj%C3%A4lvh%C3%A4ftande-smartphone-surfplatta/dp/B00PQO3HRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=phone+adhesive&qid=1635945646&sr=8-3
CPB Heating Pad Compatible with iPad iPhone Smartphone LCD Screen Separator Machine Repair Tools Heat Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PX7EGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_3C4AGR25QXG2S72K6HJ8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You might be able to use a usb-c dock, with a keyboard and screen hooked up to it. I have done that before on my phone with a cracked screen, and no touch. That's how I knew it was still working. I had a pin on it, so I had to enter that first on the keyboard, then press enter, and it unlocked and the screen mirrored.
I used this dock
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B3NV1BY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this Wiha x Xiaomi kit a few years ago.
What's cool about this kit is that you can purchase additional bits (micro bits, 4mm if I recall correctly) from Wiha's website. I've only replaced the pentalobe bit once compared to quite a bit when I had the iFixit kit. In a pinch, you can even use the iFixit bits in this driver. Beware though, it's a very thin driver. Not the most comfortable but I love it and swear by its bits.
But on the one you linked, yes. You do need to replace the driver. I apologize, I probably should have specified which driver I was using lol.
I ordered this one Wera 05118145001 2072 Kraftform Micro Screwdriver Microstix, M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B7XK9H8/
I'll see how it goes. Some of you say that the bit won't work as well but all my other wera drivers fit so much better than my ifixit bits.
The wera drivers are the only ones that don't hurt my hands
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00279GNG2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
these are it, plus you can put a sharpie mark LINE on it to know how far you should push it in without damaging the LCD
Dunno if anybody is still watching this thread, but I seem to have the same problem as OP after replacing the battery in my grandpa's iPhone SE gen 1. Phone boots, says it charging, but doesn't actually charge, just stays at the same % while plugged in to the charger.
Photos of battery connector here. From what I can tell, the row of FL2400's (I think that's what they're called based on u/Xantosuex's comment) look fine. Any ideas?
I also saw another post somewhere of someone who had luck charging after removing 1 of the cable covers. No such luck for me.
The battery kit I used FWIW.
Bought an amFilm Screen Protector a while ago, but I was having issues with cleaning dust that accumulated at the sides of the glass so I removed it.
This left a nasty dotted pattern around the home button (which took a squarish shape). It would not come off after trying to rub it constantly with alcohol. It’s definitely stuck there since the texture is rugged when I pass it over with a Q-Tip. Any good tips to get rid of it?
That seems like it would be a good one. Comes with Barlow lens just need ring light. Guess what ever is available to you there.
Have you tried that or heard anything about it?
I see, I have pretty much all of that. As for the tape, would this hurt using 3mm:
Anything wrong with these:
QXUJI 4 Pack Phone Repair Clamps, Adjustable Phone Screen Repair Tools, Phone Fastening Clamps Clip, for Cell Phone, iPhone, Samsung, iPad, MacBook, Laptops, Tablets, LCD Screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086DKFLNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2RF4K9M349HHKMM89035
Good reviews + you get two of them looks like a good deal to me and amazon prime baby.👍
Might be overkill for what you are looking for, but I found this a decent value. ORIA Screwdriver Set
The bits aren't high quality steel, and the driver isn't what I would call precision... but if you're not looking for professional equipment, I'd recommend it.
You can look for adapters like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-QGeeM-adapter-czytnik-kompatybilny/dp/B08733BK1W
I have MOKIN USB-C HUB and it works fine with those Huawei phones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080L0FYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JCXKQDZYPYC9ZZ1ZDRTM I know it's $185USD but it's definitely worth it. I've modified this same one onto a better clamp arm to my desk. The one it comes with in my opinion is garbage.
do they make screw extractors small enough to be used on iphones?
I don't know of any newer ones, but I do have this old one:
https://www.amazon.com/Kaisi-Battery-Tester-charger-Activation/dp/B01AU7YU9Y
What I do is heat the back glass to roughly 70 degrees. Then use and iflex to start the adhesive at the bottom of the phone. Once I can get it to move back and forth a bit I use the iplastix to go around the entire device.
The iplastix is super flexible and I've only broken one back glass in I would say the last 6 months.
I bought two different ones just because the first one I bought wasn't in stock so I purchased a different one when I replaced it because of the dead pixels. But here's the Amazon links to the two I bought. The first link is the first one and the second one is the one I recently purchased a couple months ago.
If you still need some input, we use the M-Triangel laser machine. We tape up the sides and bezel and cover the camera lens with aluminum tape. Comes out perfect every time
No it cannot, not without the control board. This is what you need. https://www.amazon.ca/MakerFocus-Discharge-Integrated-Charging-Protection/dp/B07PZT3ZW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=2a+5v+lithium+battery+protection+board&qid=1613417327&sr=8-3
I’ve found these little toothpick things are great for cleaning out dirt and lint from ports. I found a pack of 100 for just a couple dollars at the grocery store. They’re plastic/rubber, so they won’t short anything
Usually if you are heating the whole surface of the glass up evenly you don't have to worry about damage like if you were blasting a single area with a heat gun.
It's been almost 2 years since I got out of cell repair but I wanna say the heat plate was north of 200°C maybe 250. I would leave the phone on the plate for a minute or two. Again it would be hot to the touch so I would usually need a rag or glove to hold the phone while I removed the glass.
I used red tape adhesive to stick the rear glass back down. The adhesive that is included with new rear glass replacements is terrible. Putting 2-3mm wife red tape adhesive around the edges and a strip or 2 in the middle always worked perfectly fine for me.
I had the same problem as a hobbyist and my solution was a rolling cart with drawers. The cart I purchased can hold two Macbook 13 size laptops in a drawer, or one disassembled laptop that I'm working on. The top two drawers are used for tools and stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Rainbow-Rolling-Storage-Scrapbook-Organizer/dp/B07DY2FHD5 (a lot cheaper on eBay)
It was a Christmas gift from my sister, but I got her to give me the link because my boss wants to buy some for the crew. Major score. I'm surprised they're only $10 considering it's pretty sturdy material. Hope I'm not breaking a rule about tool link posting but here;s the Amazon link to it. Comes with a flashlight too :) https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Wristband-ZUER-Screwdriver-Boyfriend/dp/B07CNN44H9/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=zuer+wristband&qid=1609268912&sr=8-1
There is a indent on bottom left of the screens that makes it easier to pry up and slip your nail under. I'm assuming your tool isn't thin enough. When I say thin I mean ultra thin, something similar to this in thickness. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07T87MR9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_OQS5FbVND4W24
I would buy a USB Tester, similar to this, it is for precisely this purpose and will show you if the phone is drawing any current.
The phone will charge at 1A if everything is in working order, if the battery is dead you would draw very little or no current and if the charging port is dead you will draw no current.
You might be able to get something like this if the touch screen is working you could guess we’re to touch and transfer it that way https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQCY96/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_igdOFb2RJP39G