Absolutely. I am against copyrighting of any of my images. Community is free to use them freely for personal purposes or under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Sharealike for making derivative works.
My girlfriend got them actually, said she found them on amazon. I think she said the cost was around $25 after tax.
Edit: Here you go! My girlfriend said she got a large, which fits Mushu perfect as a full-grown adult.
Not if you are using high quality wood and sealant. The inside of my wooden enclosure is coated in pond guard epoxy. They do make boats out of wood you know.
Backwaters (and Underground reptiles) are one of the 2 WORST company’s who sell wild caught/sick animals. And have disgusting customer service
here’s some reviews
Carolina Custom Cages Terrarium, Tall Extra-Long Deep 48Lx24Dx24H, Easy Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0738L5GNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6CMSRZZKYHWB1BX5FS2D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That’s the cage. A water dragon would need something bigger in every direction.
I’ve set it up so as 25% of the cage is sealed off as a land section and the rest is water. Water dragon probably doesn’t need as high a % as water (the croc lizard spends about 75% of its time partially or fully in the water I’d say, including sleeping there).
These plants are awesome:
I bunched them together at the back in the shallow section, weighted by a rock and facing forward at an angle. Since then they have grown out and up, breaching the water and giving the lizard variable chill out depths and places to hide in the water.
There's an app you can get called The Tortoise Table which is good for when you're going round shops or out on walks and see something you think you'd like to feet your tort.
It's good because it tells you exactly why you should or shouldn't feed certain foods.
A ceramic heat bulb which doesn't give of light, and if your budget allows a thermostat
Better quality, Gyazo not very good.
I take it this is the study? I couldn't find a free full version.
Edit: I found the free version
Some are, some aren't. Colour varies from factors like species and gender. My guess is that these two are females since males are extremely dominant and wouldn't hesitate to attack each other.
> Collared lizard (genus Crotaphytus), any of nine species of lizards belonging to the lizard subfamily Crotaphytinae (family Crotaphytidae) found in hilly areas of the central United States and northeastern Mexico westward to the Great Basin. The coloration and pattern of collared lizards varies depending on species; however, coloration also varies with the season, temperature, and light intensity. Seasonal colour changes result from hormonal changes associated with reproduction. Males are typically much more brightly coloured than females and range from cobalt blue and green to tan, brown, and gray.
edit: full stop
I use this on 3 side of the glass tank to keep my axolotl water cool and my ackie tank hot. Also consider getting a 1/4 pvc board at home depot / hardware store. cut it to fit the top, drill air hole and add ceramic light fixtures.
You need to get a digital hygrometer ASAP then. Humidity is one of the most important parts of owning ball pythons, they can get respiratory infections, dehydrated, stuck shed etc if it’s too low. It should never be below 60%, 70-80% is optimal. Those hygrometers you stick on the wall isn’t good enough, you need a digital one like this one
Here is his uvb lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQXYB9L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And his new basking bulb (because the other one wasn't heating the new tank properly is both uva and uvb as well. I will also keep a note on turtle vines
I’ve used one in the past for a tegu. For some people they are great, for me I hated it. I hate Facebook with a passion but there is a great group that helped me with mine. I think it’s called in grow tent enclosures or something like that. People link all of the things they bought and have tons of advice.
Pros- they are cheaper than custom enclosures and hold and heat and humidity well.
Cons - they are flimsy, you need to cut a window and are prone to being torn by lizards. Didn’t take my tegu long at all to figure that out. I can’t speak to a Nile monitor though. The cheaper enclosures (Vivosun) the zipper tore the first night. Just FYI.
As far as hanging lights it’s super easy. Just get carribeaners that are adjustable and hang heating lights. Same with the lighting. It’s a grow tent so it’s designed to hang lighting. There are holes all around the enclosure that you put the wires through.
Those are the clips I used. If you need a hood to hang t5 lights you can find those at Lowe’s or Home Depot. But my advice is plan before you start building. Know where you are going to put stuff. Cut the window before you build it too.
Crickets are hard to catch! Yeah 20 gallons is good, and 40 is even better if you're up for it! That's awesome that you already know about thermostats. This one is my favorite and has worked really well for me. I've upgraded to deep heat projectors which I definitely recommend since they are more active with them, but this heat mat thermostat still works after three years when I need it (it was used constantly for about a year and a half).
If you haven't already seen it, the pinned beginner's guide has a lot of good information on supplements, heating, substrate, etc. so you don't forget anything!
I’ll put a link. I’ve bought from here twice and I had 0 worms arrive dead both times. Animal Specialties 200 - Live Brand- Superworms - Kingworms - Zophobas Morio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PR1QRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YET84ACHR40HTDPWXE31
What color is it? What kind of turtle is your little guy? Here is what I used. It's from API and helped out alot. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117U25BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_EVY1HFF5588TQS50FTBS
Possibly just get this put it on with cotton bud. If vetark don't sell in your country just google
Tomodine for reptiles. if he's eating fine there is no need for concern really and all the vet will give you will be tomodine if you notice any strange behaviour or weakness take it to the vet though:) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vetark-Tamodine-Reptile-Wound-Cleanser/dp/B003672UMU
If you can't get him into a vets then go buy either this https://www.amazon.com/Vetericyn-Reptile-Antimicrobial-Non-Toxic-Lizards/dp/B01M4NTSKZ it's not in stock in amazon UK but look for something like that . If you think it may get infected you can also try tamodine wound cleanser by vetark to keep it clean you may still need antibiotics but that can treat mouth rot,scale rot etc so if it is a burn and it goes funny that will help.
Awh, Lemonade is a great name! He should also get a lot more yellow as he grows, so it’ll fit even better in a couple months :)
Yep, plastic plants are fine! And yeah, basically they feel a lot more secure when they have stuff to cover them. I’d put one hide on the warm side of the enclosure and one hide on the cold side, then some plastic plants all over the enclosure
Also, the log could probably work fine, but I’ve found that some leopard geckos feel more secure in hides like these that aren’t as open; https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Cave-Medium/dp/B001F3YJ9O?th=1&psc=1
Feel free to ask if you have more questions, cheers!
Get one of these, this is the best way to temp your basking surface.
My 100 watt halogen hits 105 F at 10". (I don't know metric, sorry.)
You are going to need about 36" of uvb or 2/3 the length of your final enclose. This is the best but find one that includes the fixture. Bulb lasts one year.
A dimmer is usually used in conjunction with a thermostat to help keep the bulb with in the proper range, as halogens do tend to get hotter then a normal bulb, mine at ~75% intensity keeps the basking spot for my lizards roughly 35-37c temps. I use a halogen but my thermostat didn’t allow for a hook up. I ended up getting something similar to this dimmer switch to manually adjust the intensity of it myself. Works great!
Hopefully this helps a bit :)
If your enclosure isn’t bioactive, as the other person said, predatory mites are your go to. They won’t harm your reptile and only go after small insects/ larvae, and are the most common natural mite pest erasers for reptile keepers. The name of the specific mite you’re looking for is Hypoaspis Miles. I ordered mine off Amazon to combat my fungus gnat problem. They can and will eat your springtails and some isopods (iirc) too, so you’d have to rebuilt the cleanup crew once the mites are done.
Once all the pest insects are gone, the hypoaspis mites will begin to eat each other/ starve out, so they won’t become an infestation problem. Just be sure to wash your hands if you happen to have cricket/ roach farms, just in case. I don’t know if they could be harmful to larger insect species but better to be safe than sorry.
You should really just need a reflector, something along the lines of:
Carolina Custom Cages Reptile 34" T5HO UVB Standard Light Fixture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B209YQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_MIeYFb5RDJMHZ
Just make sure you get the right size reflector and bulb pair. There are also “hoods” but id not do that for a BTS personally
I actually need to run 2 ( this and a smaller one )to hold at 70% humidifier
I also use deionized water. Tap water is horrible, white calcium/mineral powder gets on everything and I cant see that being good for our snoots well being.
I used to have a cave gecko, setup looks good. Humidity is important as well as temperature. I have these digital thermometer/hygrometer's for my geckos. They're more reliable than the dials. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LY0CABC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_tt6SFb67H6EEP
He looks skinny, and his arm doesn't look right, not sure if it is the photo or mbd. Repashy calcium powder is the best calcium I've used so would recommend that. Could try with a low wattage UV light but they are nocturnal and my cave gecko would only come out in the middle of the night so not sure how useful it would be.
I've always used the metal garage shelving from Amazon, and it's worked great for me for smaller tanks. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-5-Shelf-Shelving-Unit-Chrome/dp/B01M0A4B9M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Metal+Shelves&qid=1605566122&sr=8-3
Oh those little round plastic ones? If so, there are a couple different problems here I think -
Those plastic dial thermometer/hygrometers are pretty much just garbage. If you want to get a better reading of what ambient temps are, I would look into digital ones like Acurite. This is the one I use which comes with a probe that can stick on to the side of the tank. There's also one that's like $11-$12 but it just sits on the bottom.
Another problem is UTH are designed to only heat the direct surface above where they're positioned, so they don't have much of an impact on the ambient temp. The best way to measure a UTH's heat is with a temperature gun, which takes a reading directly from the surface. They're about $20 on Amazon. If you used a temp gun on that UTH's surface you'd likely be surprised by how hot it is; actually, a UTH unregulated by a thermostat can get dangerously hot for an animal to touch.
What you might want to look into is a ceramic heat emitter; it's an unlighted bulb that screws into a heat lamp and it'll heat the air temperatures below the lamp. You'd probably have to experiment with different wattages or get a dimmer for it to get temps around what you'd want
I asked her and she sent me this
Hirts gardens; 14.99. It looks like it only includes the 3 plants, moss, dirt, and stones. You can buy that kind of jar from Amazon or a local craft store.
For a beardie, you don't need anything heavy duty since you're looking to go for ~100-105 for the hotspot. I buy the 39watt floods from home depot (lowes sells them too), about 4-6$ a pop. Always keep a spare on hand. Then just grab a dimmer because they are dimmable and you should be able to get the perfect temperature for your beardie 👍
I've been using this combo for a few weeks now and the che works in the lamp and is dimmable
I can gladly help!
Alright so since ur a beginner, I'd recommend a Ball Python instead.
Housing: 4x2x2 (LxWxH). To save money and not have to spend over $300, I'd suggest building your own 4ft enclosure out of plywood, melamine, or PVC You can get the sheets at home depot or lowes. You can have one of stores cut the sheets to dimensions you want also. Here's a tutorial https://youtu.be/40QGB_Q09b0. You can also do a grow tent. They hold in humidity and heat very well. Cost efficient also. They have 4x2x2 sizes, just flip it on its side https://www.amazon.com/CoolGrows-2x2x4-Small-Indoor-Hydroponics/dp/B01GCHXUVU
Humidity and substrate: 55% to 60%. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity. For the substrate, use cypress mulch.
Ambient temp and Basking: 75-80F for ambient temp and 88F for basking temp. Use a thermostat for whatever basking thing ur using.
You can provide driftwood cause they like to be arboreal sometimes. Provide lots of hides to make the BP feel comfortable. Feed once a week. Leave it alone for 2-3 days before you pick it up again. Hope this helps! If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.
A general rule that I’ve seen for good enclosure size is that the length (longest side) should be the length of the snake or more, and the width and height should be half the length of the snake. I would not ever really think to change a snake to a smaller cage, but it seems the reason you’re wanting too is because the cage you have him in doesn’t lock. I’m not sure the details of that scenario but have you tried cage clips? Something like this or this is designed to hold on a screen lid so a snake can’t push it out and escape.
I use this one. Every once in a while a dubia will crawl out, usually if their feet are wet because they have better traction. But it’s only happened twice.
DHPs or Deep Heat Projectors are pretty good, they don't produce light and they're pretty efficient/powerful. The arcadia DHPs are really good and provide infrared. And the majority of reptiles benefit greatly from UV lighting during the day, again arcadias are pretty good. Make sure if you get a UV light to get a tube bulb with the proper strength. Albino animals might not benefit from UV since they don't have melanin to protect their skin but they still require a day-night cycle. Also, remember that all heat sources require a thermostat. It's also healthy to have a slight drop in temperature at night and some thermostats can provide that.
If you can find a source for the lamp anywhere but Petsmart, do that.
Double Bubble Reflective Foil Insulation: (48 in X 10 Ft Roll) Industrial Strength, Commercial Grade, No Tear, Radiant Barrier Wrap for Weatherproofin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G63TCQM/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apanp_KVyZUf8jH1lAm
I use this and cut it slightly larger than the window and push it in until it stays by itself. If your house is old as you say you may want to use some weather stripping where the pane meets the frame as well. I also use draft stoppers on the buttons of the entry and closet doors.
Temperature holds fairly steady and I find the space heater only kicks on every hour or so for a few minutes
unrelated to mites/shed but baby boas till about 4 ft in size absolutely love to climb, get some branches n shii in there for the lil homie to climb, it also adds more rough surfaces to aid in shedding. also they make products for mite baths where you mix water for a snake bath with it im going to link a product for a spray. you will also want to swap to paper towels till the mites are dealt with so you can worry less about recontamination, mites are evil and can live off their hosts for crazy periods of time. youll want to swap the towels out daily after mite treatments and to spray the tank down with the product I'm attaching.
Here is the misting system I use! https://www.amazon.com/Paddsun-Humidifier-Intelligent-Adjustable-Chameleons/dp/B0B574MXJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2FQWJQ6A4YMQN&keywords=chameleon+mister+system&qid=1667600570&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjM0IiwicXNhIjoiNC4xMyIsInFzcCI6IjMuMzgifQ%3D%3D...
I used to use this one. Plug it in, leave the fogger switch ON with your preferred settings, and the humidistat will do the rest.
Fair warning, it beeps painfully loud if you are over or under the high and low settings.
The only way to completely prevent escapees is to tong-feed. But if you'd rather do a bowl, I'd look at ceramic ones like this one
Oh no! I'll have to figure out what to do about the light, then. Do you know if a plastic tarp blocks UVA/B like glass does? My greenhouse is basically covered by a big plastic tarp.
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 300+ species to pick from on beta launch
- Export your herptile data to CSV
- Explore our database of species
Something like this
(These probably aren't the specific brands you should get, they're just to show you the types I mean and were the first that came up and I'm in a rush)
12 gauge is pretty common for the 4x2s, up to 20 gauge.
A little over $12 per yard on Amazon
For my leo, I bought some reptile-safe wood chips (Bark, fir bedding/super soft, no splinters, cushy) on Amazon, pretty dang cheap too : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010OTJIY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (He was skeptical at first, but loves it now)
I would look into deep heat projectors! They emit very little light so they can stay on 24/7, but do a very good job keeping your leo warm (though I would highly recommend you also offer UVB- or, if you have an albino morph, a regular lightbulb- on a timer for a consistent day/night cycle). You will need a thermostat if you get one though- I have an 80w one and use this thermostat with it (I glued the probe to a suction cup so I could stick it to the tank wall). Otherwise they make it way too hot!
I use those for all of my plant bulb lamps and day basking lights.
I'd say yeah. I'm pretty familiar with the stuff, I had one that passed because of this crap. (This was like, over ten years ago when there was very little information out there about them.)
I saw I'm a comment sthat you'll be taking them to a vet, great. In the meantime I suggest a 30% peroxide 70%water mix of peroxide (that's cut after you purchase it, so it'll be even more diluted)
Apply it with a qtip, and rinse and clean off. Or vetracin. If you don't already have it I can't suggest it enough. It saved my reptiles many times. https://www.chewy.com/vetericyn-plus-reptile-antimicrobial/dp/137544
I purchased those for my large enclosure, the plants are growing like crazy.
Probably, this exact enclosure is on Wayfair for $319.99 and on Amazon for $289.99. https://www.amazon.com/REPTI-ZOO-Terrarium-Knock-Down-Paludarium/dp/B098WLX951
This is the exact one I have, but that was to fit my specific dimensions. Any of the seagrass fiber nets work great. The holes are big enough that you don't have to worry about toes getting caught and you can see plenty through them
Here is a link, I also was able to find one at my local Petco. But this is what you should look for
I use these: eufy Security Solo IndoorCam P24, 2K, Pan & Tilt, Indoor Security Camera, Wi-Fi Plug-in Camera, Human & Pet AI, Voice Assistant Compatibility, Night Vision, Motion Tracking, HomeBase not Compatible
They are fairly cheap and I can control/access them from an app on my phone.
There are lots of options out there though, just figure out what features are important to you and start your search. You can get some for as little as $10.
The same incubator is sold under many different names. They are a generic incubator from china that has had many different brand names. Exoterra even sold them at one time with exoterra branding on them.
Here is another one sold under a different brand name https://www.amazon.com/OrangeA-Incubator-Capacity-ReptiPro-Portable/dp/B01MG4166U/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=3DIM5PI1Y8FNY&keywords=reptile+incubator&qid=1658092056&s=pet-supplies&sprefix=reptile+incubator%2Cpets%2C126&sr=1-5
I think you might be confusing thermostat with a thermometer, thermometers measure the temperature while thermostats are used to regulate the heat source.
If you put a thermostat on the ceramic heat emitter to be able to decide what temperature it should be, it might get hotter(depending on the wattage). Lamps that aren’t on thermostats typically have either too low or too high temperatures since it’s not regulated
Here are a couple thermostats on Amazon
My Leo loved this hide with sphagnum moss in it. Make sure you get the right size based on your gecko’s size. Greatly helped with shedding
I would not glue a heat mat to a tank instead I would get alluminum foil tank used for HVAC to hold it on.
You are going to need to buy a bunch of bins and also cool packs unless you can make certain that your vehicle AC is working. Keep a thermometer in the vehicle so you can keep an eye on the temps. Crested geckos can die pretty easily from overheating so you are going to need to keep a real good eye on the temps. The hotel is going to be the safest place for them because it should be staying at 70ish. The real danger is leaving them in the car with the AC off. Thats where the cool packs come in and possibly even putting the bins the cresties are in in a cooler.
One thing I have also heard people do is buying the exoterra type incubators and plugging them in within the car. They are pretty cool incubators because they have a cooling function so you just set the temps to 70ish and put the cresties in the bins within the incubator. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072MM8DZN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Exoterra no longer sells the incubator I am talking about but they were just putting their branded on these chinese incubators so this one will work great for the purpose. The main thing is you will need to keep the car running. Obviously, you will have to turn off the car to gas up but if you take a long break out of the car it could overheat.
Now that you mention it I am not sure of any that allow you to check from your phone when out of the house but this one store's data so you can see if the temps were doing anything dangerous while you were away.
There’s a product called Shed Ease which I’ve used on difficult shed. That may help get stuck shed off
Here are some $10 ones you might be able to use, they even have motion detection! I am not sure how big an area you need to cover, but you might get away with keeping it under $50 with these.
Try small fans on Amazon, this one even has a dial
Well I'm austrian, so not sure how applicable it would be to you but I use this. I get it from the garden section of my local big box hardware store (called obi).
There is sadly little information about these guys on the net. When I first got mine I had some trouble getting him to eat, so I had to reach out to his breeders to get some tips. In the end, and after following some of their advice and trying several different things, I found that he responded better to a fairly empty cage, with less grainy sand, and total privacy (I have a towel to cover his cage since I am awake into the early morning).
Basically - a ten gallon tank, heating pad on one end set to 85-90 degrees. Minimal or no decor, just hides/hiding places. Give them plenty of room to dig and roam. I recommend getting some humidity holding hides (like this), and spray down one side of cage every couple of days to keep it humid. I don't use a gauge for my humidity, and just go on the basis of how wet the sand is (clumpy but not runny). I've found that finer sand rather than grainy sand works well for them to dig in (I'm currently using this one). I feed him every 2-3 days, and I like to use 1/2 inch Dubia roaches - I usually shake about 4-7 in there for him to hunt. You can also feed them crickets and other common feeders, but mine refuses worms and I find dubias are much easier to keep for long periods of time.
You can give them a water bowl, but they could kick sand into it, and usually they do fine with just the water/humidity you provide them. I've tried food bowls with him, but those ended up full of sand too lmao.
These are the bomb!! Not necessarily this brand but these types.
Yes, but theyll use more if you offer it. People have been finding they do bigger with more climbing room. Something like this for instance, would probably be better.
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
It is not recommended to treat any sort of infection at home, your only realistic choice is to call a vet that specializes in reptile care for advice on first aid over the phone. Some measures you can take in the meantime are increasing the temperature of your water to about 83 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Make sure it has a warm place to bask and leave the light on even at night. I strongly recommend using API Turtle Fix to help the turtle breath a little better. None of these are a cure-all, I just recommend these to prevent the infection from becoming to severe while you wait for a vet to be available.
RESPRITORY INFECTIONS ARE CONTAGEOUS, SO SEPARATE YOUR TURTLE IF YOU HAVE OTHERS!
Note: You can buy antibiotics like, Enrofloxacin, and Ciprofloxacin to treat infections, but I strongly discourage you from treating on your own, especially with a turtle this small.
The large zoomed screen cages are good for a baby iguana but you'll have to work a little extra hard to hold the humidity and temperature. I had my iguana in this before I moved him to a custom built enclosure and he did great.
Here's the link : https://www.amazon.co.uk/HOMUTE-60x60x140cm-Obeservation-Window-Growing/dp/B08M31KDZ2/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=3K34WZANYQE90&keywords=grow+tent&qid=1650363238&sprefix=grow%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhb...
ohhh i get you. i would get a small temporary enclosure, maybe something like this, or really you could just make one out of Tupperware by drilling in some holes at the top, add some damp substrate in case they shed. warm the container with something like a heated blanket or hand warmers. pack stuff like a spray bottle, a hide and maybe a dozen crickets or whatever your gecko prefers. you should prepare your gecko to the enclosure by keeping them in it a few days before the trip. and most of all just keep an eye on your little one.
Well I said I'd check, but I honestly cant find any books on smuggling. I remember reading it, but can't remember the exact title.
I THINK it might have been Stolen World.
I really really appreciate op for taking responsibility and reaching out for tips and help. Some owners are dumb but op sounds like they made a honest, albeit dumb, mistake.
I’m glad the smaller one is ok. I also second options suggested here- previously used it for my reptiles and it works pretty well. O personally like using plastic canvas used for crafts as the grid is big enough to let them see but also allows for free smells and easily cleaned.
plastic canvas material - avoid putting it under a heat lamp.
A warm towel/water bottle?!, you need to get an aquarium heater with a built in thermostat. They are not expensive. I have this one and it works well:
Dope! I love my shini and have a boyfriend for her being delivered next week so hopefully will have some mini shinis some day!
Small tip, I bought some bamboo feeding tongs for my girl because as she got more confident around me she got so aggressive in her attacks on food I was worried she’d hurt herself on metal tongs. She was even just going at the tongs sometimes out of instinct haha. She still chomps down on the bamboo ones but no signs of injury so they seem to have done the trick.
ASOCEA Reptile Bamboo Tweezers Lizard Feeder Tongs Feeding Tools for Bearded Dragons Lguanas Lizards Turtles Geckos Corals(Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G76RYC3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QZEQ5PRS7EJMJJWCNYSN
Since it's front opening with sliding panels, just get a simple terra lock I use those for all my enclosures and no cat's ever been able to open that.
Are woodies little bugs like roaches? If so, this will help.. look up escape proof reptile bowl, Amazon has some 5-10 dollars
TDPET Ceramic Mini Reptile Worm Dish - Lizard Escape Proof Feeding Bowl Circular (Large-1Pack, Orange) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXJZ8RX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DJQ8S1G883W5RFR4DGD9
As long as you keep the car at a comfortable perhaps slightly warm temp for you which should be around 80, they should be fine. As long as they don't go below 70. When you stop for the night you should have plastic bins ready for them, you can get reptile heating pack that work for 48+ hours to put in the plastic bin with them to give them a heat source. Make sure to offer water before driving in the morning and when you stop but don't leave water in their travel cages and have proper transport containers for them. Insulated Styrofoam box for your snake, put it in an inside out pillowcase and tie it off. A plastic bin lined with fleece should be good for the lizards. You can mist it down to to help maintain higher humidity and no pill fleece doesn't develop little stringy bits so no toes can get caught up. The frogs can be safely housed in a plastic bin as well, but I'd put sphagnum moss in it because if I am remembering right they have to be moist could even put a lot of moss so you can put a thin layer of water under it, allowing them to self regulate and maintain humidity.
You can get powdered food for geckos on amazon I'll add the link u mix it with water and it has all the stuff they need he needs calcium and proteins to get his weight back but probably cannot eat wor.s with his mouth like that. So get the food mix it up and use a lil dropper, just put some on his face not on the wound but where he can lick it off. If he won't even eat that then I might suggest dropper feeding him pedialight. Yea the shit for babies it works the same for lizards. I hope he plus throught. gecko food
It's a WYZE cam that I bought on Amazon. This one can look around. They have a cheaper one that's stationary and would probably be perfect for a typical 4x2x2 enclosure.
So is use this fixture and it works great, it’s very low profile and fits right between my terrarium and the table that it’s under, the only problem i could see you having is finding the right heating element that’s compatible with the fixture. i did find this ceramic heat emitter that would work with it but it has pretty mixed reviews, some saying it never ended up working or did at first then it stopped, some saying they got a replacement and that one worked and some saying it worked fine for them.. so taking a gamble with it would be up to you. i would recommend using a thermostat with it, maybe having it at a steady temp would help but again, i don’t actually know, i’ve never used this product but maybe you could see if there’s any other compact heating elements that you think could work. sorry, i feel like i’m rambling but yeah, i do think the fixture would fit at the top though.
Well, it wasn’t this one exactly, but it was similar to this. I’m actually from the UK so I can’t find the exact one. They are all fairly similar though. Just a bag of silica that you can dry out and re-use. These don’t need electricity.
I feel ya. I know funds are tight in college. There’s probably even cheaper ones out there if you hunt around. Try searching just “Car dehumidifier” or “reusable silica dehumidifier”.
This looks like the one I have. But by the looks of Amazon US, there are more options.
Double check to make sure there’s nothing directly causing a humidity spike though. Always good to get to the root of the issue when possible. And sometimes it takes a little while for humidity levels to stabilize in a new enclosure anyway, so there’s still a chance those levels will go down a bit.
Hope this helps.
Here is the link to the first one he bought. It was suggested by a guy who feeds his dogs raw food so he ground chicken and duck bones regularly without issue. My friend is saving for a Weston 2HP so he can grind more meat faster, but they are kind of pricey.
STX Turboforce 3000 Heavy Duty 5-In-1 Powerful Size #12 Electric Meat Grinder • Sausage Stuffer (3 Sizes) • Kubbe Maker • Burger/Slider Maker • 2 Meat Claw Holders • 3 S/S Blades • 4 Grinding Plates https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012KJBR0/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_12BX9HREM7ZFM2JGNZ1V
Zoo Med Zoomed ReptiSun T5 HO High Output 10.0 UVB Lamp 54W, 46-Inch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AQU8HRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YYMMCR6FZJSRX52R9CGY this is the kind i mean by the linear bulb!:) they're the better option & im fairly sure ZooMed has a pack option where it's the bulb & holder
Wonderful! I have a difficult time keeping up the humidity in the tank and the ambient temperature in my room during the summer is about 90 degrees so I got a low wattage LED UVB lamp that I saw recommended on a couple reptile sites. Sounds like I need to upgrade though.
Get a small cloth carrier (like ones used for small rodents or guinea pigs) and use these to help keep your leo warm
I've always seen a scat mat as a mat with Lil spikes which might actually work great here because it wouldn't interfere with the ventilation