What are /r/shapeoko's favorite Products & Services?

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I’m guessing a key hole bit.

Freud 25/64" (Dia.) Key Hole Bit with 1/4" Shank (70-104) by Amazon.com Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7JX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_GVETW667Z98B7XQ2002Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using mine for a year and a half with no problems. I did buy a 2nd one from Amazon for doing hand routing. Its identical, just rebranded:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O90XDOC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the link directly to Thingiverse.

This is my first time doing this kind of design! Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

(I'm still waiting for my 65mm spindle to show up so I can test fit and make any changes to the main body.)

I have found the solution, if anybody is interested.

I renamed the serial port.

Create a file /etc/udev/rules.d/90-rename-serial-ports.rule containing

ACTION=="add" KERNEL=="ttyS2" NAME="ttyS1"

Credit goes to stakeoverflow user: Florian Diesch http://serverfault.com/questions/137400/remapping-linux-serial-port-device-names

Almost works perfectly. Issue now is that the octopi will only successfully connect when you attempt to connect with the grblcontroller

That looks easy. I have a couple of these set aside from an automated test fixture I put together. If the pinout is the same on the newer version of the board on the Shapeoko4 then this should be easy to have both the spindle and shopvac connected for just $30.

I just need to finish my rolling cabinet first.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=IOT+power+relay&qid=1627141722&sr=8-2

So I purchased these casters off amazon for my shapeoko pro xxl and they lock perfectly and give me absolutely no issues with vibration or anything of the sort. I haven't tried them myself, but I have heard good things about the casters in the other comments.

simply wired in this switch from Woodstock via Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005W17HYY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_L6GrCbZPQC94N

wired in a 10ft power cord out to a simple power strip mounted on side table. I have used several of these switches (220v table saw, 110v bandsaw). They are magnetic switch so no chance of inadvertently powering up. Can be locked out too. The large paddle is great for "smacking" when needed.

I got something random off amazon, it was this one: 4YourHome First4Spares Premium Replacement Stretch Hose for Sebo X1, X2 & Automatic X3 Series Vacuum Upright Cleaners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CP09P2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mQIgFbC66T4DG

But I found it by searching replacement vacuum hose (make sure it’s an elastic one) and then you’ll probably need some kind of adapter to hook it onto your dust collection / shop vac

Awesome. So if I go with the Gradus M1 Pro, do I need to get stepper drivers with it as well? Also are end stops something I would need?

I also found this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M8BBGQS , but the same question about stepper drivers applies.

Will I require some kind of power supply to power the motors and such, or does it all go through the control board? I'm also curious if I would still be able to use the same accessories that are sold on the Carbide3D website? (specifically the bitzero). Since this thing was sitting on its side in a garage for a good while, is there anything I should be looking out for? Belt replacements?

This.

And it's also a great way to make sure your machine is trammed properly. I use a 1 inch wide flattening bit (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SKYYN7P/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

I’ve found that the wire brushes can be a bit too abrasive and can end up marring the surface if you aren’t careful.

Instead I tend to use nylon bristle gun cleaning brushes. The small side is particularly handy for those tight crevices.

Otis Technology Blue Nylon All Purpose Gun Cleaning Brush (10 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRX4QQV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_4E1Q0ZYY6BQEVRQ2XRRV

I cut them out with masking tape on the back and didn’t cut thru the tape. Then I put masking tape on the front to keep their positions. Then I glued velum to the back and removed the front tape. They are glued with spray adhesive. The hole in the A and O are glued with craft adhesive. Tombow MONO Permanent Adhesive Applicator, 1/3-Inch by 472-Inch (62106) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XAHF7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MCC074E59ADM7WREC3N2

Try a 3d carve http://www.thingiverse.com/ has models which are mostly for 3d printers but a few are suitable for milling. I did a skull semi successfully but my bit holder was too short.

Test out different materials, foam, milling wax etc

I cut a number into a chunk of scrap oak for my father in laws allotment plot. He was over the moon.

I just use this for most wood projects. Rare to have an issue, when I do it's the spoilboard being worn and a surface fixes it

Nitto (Permacel) P-02 Double Coated Kraft Paper Tape: 3/4 in. x 36 yds. (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QC48UU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_0V9E96T6MSVSNSDPTT8D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe use some of these with some tool paths that drive up the valleys?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grinding-Polishing-Abrasive-Multifunctional-Accessories/dp/B07BLYJF3B/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?crid=2RCWM2GT7T66I

Of course then you’ll need a collet that will hold them, and some way to explain to your gcode generation what shape they are.

I used this and love it. Drop dead simple. Topped it with 3/4 mdf. Didn't bother with shelves, just legs.

2x4basics 90164 Custom Work Bench and Shelving Storage System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_gHYCmxw2JwFCL

I have been using these for a while and they work really good, the 3/8 length .25 cutter you can get pretty short into the collet so the extension isn't too much. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KMCWWL1/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_YMQWZ35MBJQP4BEJSF2X?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Without knowing exactly why it stopped, I can't say how to save it, but it's likely not possible.

I'd stop the router, back out of the job, double check the g-code sender to make sure it's connected to the controller. See if the controller responds to commands from the console, or jog controls. Send a return to zero command, and restart the job if it actually returns to zero.

Double check the cable. Make sure it's as far from the router as possible. If there's a lot of static in the air you may need to fix that too. Ground the chassis, humidify your work space a little, and get a better USB cable. I've never seen a mfg send more than the bare minimum cable.

I'm using this cable on my X-Carve, and a similar one with USB Mini for my home built and 3018.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQ29B2/

I find this very often when I use SVG files. What I do is open the file in Inkscape and go to Path and do the step that makes the image into a path. Export that and bring that version into F360. My biggest frustration with F360 is trying to use SVG files. F360 chokes on them all the time because of the size. Here's some info on the Inkscape process https://inkscape.org/en/doc/tutorials/tracing/tutorial-tracing.html

Personally for me I use this for birch plywood. 1/4” and up. I run 0.158” depth of cut with 75I MP feed. Thing last forever. I set my Z on the wasteboard so that it never cuts below Z 0. That’s just me Thought. If I’m cutting all the way through I don’t care what the actual thickness is and this way I don’t have to measure the stock. What I’ve found with compression bits is you have to go at least the diameter in depth of cut otherwise you won’t engage the downcut portion and you’ll get tear out on the top.

Limit switches are one of my favorite features of the Shopbot I have in my scene shop.

The brackets are up on thinigiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257089

I've tested it for fit on the X-Axis, but I haven't yet tested fit on the Y-Axis. That's my goal for tonight.

> http://serverfault.com/questions/137400/remapping-linux-serial-port-device-names

Hi, I just stumbled across this thread while looking for options on running my shapeoko with octoprint. It seems you've had a few months since you've got this running and I'm curious how it's held up and if you've had anymore issues?

Thanks. I think i'm just going to use one of these power strips to start with. A switch for each piece without having to do fancy wiring that i'm wholly unqualified to be doing xD

I love it. I use this to apply it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQNTKSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A lot of people use cheap windows tablets like the Fusion 5. I have one and it's suprisingly capable considering it's sub $300.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N1J45YP/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

^ This. I bought my Shapeoko 4 without the Bitsetter and BitZero, and regetted it within days. Get both of those. I bought the Bitsetter from Carbide, but bought the BitZero knock off from Dog River (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TBRFQWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

All works great!

I recommend starting with small cuts of material first to learn the in's & out's of the machine and dial in your material-specific speeds & feeds. You might find a local plastics company offering off-cuts & scraps of materials that can be bought by the pound - very affordably.

If you're doing a production run (cutting the same piece over & over again) you might consider some of the different work-holding kits Carbide offers. Double-sided tape is OK but it is nice to have some real mechanical clamping power; it helps with repeatability.

Not sure if they include by default with new Shapeokos, but the magnetic dust boot attachment is really helpful. I use mine with this hose.

Don't forget hearing & eye protection.

I got this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O6RA6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KFDNMZQ7WGM46NR97PAV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure youbwill call it quiet, but it is quieter than my shop vac, and comes with wall mounts and a wireless power control button that I use so I can tuck it away.

Not sure if available in the UK but I just started installing these. Got about half way so far and they seem just fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1P1LPH/ref=ppx\_od\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The build went pretty smooth. The directions were great and I took my time. I did have one issue with a bolt hole not being properly threaded but Carbide3d was really good about sending out the new part right away. I expect yours would be an issue if that kind of problem comes up since it is so old.

I started my surfacing too deep and too slow so there was a little bit of darkening of the surface. I had to crank up the feed rate on the fly which is a great feature of the Carbide Motion software. I also have a fairly cheap surfacing bit and am just a little out of tram. It is very minimal but it was visible. A quick sand with the orbital sander resolved the surface darkening as well as the lines from the tram issue.

The surfacing bit was just a cheap one from Amazon and it looks like it is out of stock but I know there are similar ones that you could order.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B081W4GPT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get a current sensing plug that will control things like shop vacs specifically on amazon or at hardware stores.

It has two receptacle plugs built in, one that it monitors and the other that it turns on and off to match the first one. You can plug the spindle into one and have it controlled by the bitrunner, and then that device will see that and then turn on the shop vac

Edit: this is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PVBX1TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_CKMJAJC0F6Z0WYTTFW4V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm new to this subreddit, but not to woodworking in general. The casters on levers is one method that works. The other method for mobile carts that need to be stationary sometimes is De-Sta-Co lever clamps. Or off brand imitations. Bolt one of these to each leg, roll into place and kick the handle into place while lifting the table - Bobs your Aunty: stationary table with the casters you already own.

Something you might consider is these (or another brand, I have no personal experience with this one) they raise up off the floor so you have a solid base, while still being portable when you want it to be.

Honestly I doubt good locking casters will move even with the machine running though.

Dual bearings roller

I got this for rolling sound deadening and it works awesome, with ball bearings in the roller

https://www.amazon.com/TIMKEN-17x35x10mm-Pre-Lubricated-Performance-Effective/dp/B08D91KCLR/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?adgrpid=56342944552&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4Evb662nG8azwh6oEllRe7K3XYQwdShP03tqm_vJSdM9xE_5uLYuJTwaAkMNEALw_wcB&...

/u/Nicelysedated responded with a link to an Amazon purchase link:

> https://www.amazon.com/TIMKEN-17x35x10mm-Pre-Lubricated-Performance-Effective/dp/B08D91KCLR

(I've trimmed the unnecessary context information from the URL)

This hose probably would do the trick. It moves with this machine just fine and I haven’t noticed significant shrinkage (no not that kind!) when the vac is on. It does a bit, but not too bad. I also have mine running up onto my rafters above the machine and then directly down to the dust shoe, so this helps a bit with keeping it from retracting too much. I use these to hang it from the ceiling: Big Horn 11729PK 2-1/2-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LVUWFY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is what I have, and I actually ran into my first static issue while surfacing my wasteboard. Disconnected 3 times. People talk about running all different kind of wires and whatnot but I’m not exactly comfortable with that.

hose

Maybe I'm confused (actually this is highly likely). I bought an AlTiN coated endmill from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070YYP28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and had a ton of issues with chip welding. Are we talking the same thing or is there that much of a difference in the order of the elements in the coating name?

EDIT: Just saw that you recommended a lye cleaning between parts. I dunked mine in muriatic (pool) acid to remove the aluminum that had welded to it. It probably ended up removing the coating as well, but I still use it on wood now.

oh basically instantly. it's a POS.

Someone told me to buy one of these [1] and it's worked great

[1] https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791ZS89G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh but I did put the board and the router on one of these: Safety Power Tool Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT13B2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cqYMFbRN005NX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I haven’t tried an emergency stop switch that plugs into the board, I kind of like being able to just cut the power entirely with the big stop button if I need to

You could think about a laptop arm mount like this: https://www.amazon.com/FLEXIMOUNTS-Monitor-Computer-11-17-3-Notebook/dp/B00V33L7UK/

Awesome, im thinking of going with these brackets that seem pretty heavy duty. https://www.amazon.com/Toirxarn-Folding-Shelf-Brackets-Inch/dp/B08BNH1CTD/ref=pd_di_sccai_1/131-2561020-1917713?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B08BNH1CTD&pd_rd_r=419f7c19-e162-487a-a1e4-979952d12088&pd_rd_w=ffsO4&pd_rd_wg=bKQpe&pf_rd_p...

then just mount a mdf or 3/4 ply to the brackets then mount the shapeoko. In my head it works. Hopefully someone can point out any glaring faults. Im hoping the brackets dont have a lot of slop to them, thats the big thing i can think of

https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-Spiral-Plunge-Down-Cut/dp/B07KMCY3XN/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=1%2F16+end+mill&qid=1601298702&sr=8-13

I do most of my machining with 1/8" bits. First thing i would recommend would be to not buy your bits from Carbide 3d. Get some endmills from Amazon. You can get a 5-pack of compression bits for $20, and at that price point, they are disposable. I make a lot of signs out of 1/4" baltic birch. I cut the entire depth in 1 pass. Using compression bits, i have very little cleanup.

Also, the feeds and speeds in Carbide Create are off. Its very possible you could be burning your bits by spinning too fast and moving too slow. For 1/4" baltic birch plywood, i generally have my router set on 3.5-4 on the speed dial, and change the feeds and speed on the toolpath to cut the full depth of the cut (~.230) and have the feedrate set at 50ipm and the plunge set at 40, and i have no problems burning bits, and my projects get done a lot faster than their recommended speeds. Try a small project with those settings and you can raise or lower the feedrate in Carbide Motion if you notice any chatter or you feel like the router is struggling. I find birch plywood cuts real easy with these bits, and cutting the full depth, i generally only have to do some quick touchup sanding on the back side of the project: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RKCWGH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A z independent dust boot really helps with this issue IE: a suckit dust boot,

I made my own out of wood and HDPE and stapled the brush onto the outside edge. I have strips on the z axis plate that the

I use a dust collector that has a 4 in hose and a 2.2kw spindle just for reference on the holes in the picture.

I have that same exact dust boot. I use double sided cnc tape.

https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Double-Woodworking-Yellow-Backing/dp/B07F1BJN6D/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=cnc+tape&psr=PDAY&qid=1575099935&s=specialty-aps&sr=8-1

Awesome! Looks like since I have mainly been doing pine I could kick it up to speed 2 no problem.

My next question is, in carbide create what would you consider for the bit choice for a 1/8 straight cut like This

I think it would be the #102 bit but I would like to make sure. In easel I just choose the 1/8 straight cut and go on my way however when I am doing projects in carbide create I'd just like to make sure since all of the bits are in the # fashion.

Thanks a lot for all your help

https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT136442-Diameter/dp/B007BTPAJE/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_pd_title is the bit

Using .479 inch birch plywood

Starting using .62 doc at 35 ipm *.062 sorry

https://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Permacel-Double-Coated-Kraft/dp/B000QDL9GK

It's expensive, but I keep a roll of it around for difficult setup jobs. I've used it to cut steel on the Bridgeport, pucker factor 100 the first time but she held.

LE Waterproof 12V Flexible LED Light Strip, 6000K Daylight White, 150 Units SMD 5050 LED, 12 Volt LED Light Strips, Pack of 16.4ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQV6U3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vImOybQWYPFJD

They work great. I have them under my X axis also, all plugged into the fan port on the carbide board so they turn on and off with the machine.

Both my z and X were slipping... Once tightened, the machine has been rock solid. Good idea on moving the electronics, post what you do.

Not to shill, but I these inserts and they have served well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSZ13G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1